Elephants of Namibia
Trip Start
Jul 12, 2008
1
20
25
Trip End
Aug 04, 2008
Impalila Island,
Namibia
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
After breakfast, we walked a bit around the island, with Patrick as a guide. We visited a couple of villages and saw one of the two schools on the island. Mostly, we walked fairly slowly and talked about the history of Namibia and the island. In no particular order:
"X The island¡¦s population is about 800.
"X Given its location, almost everything comes from either Botswana or Zambia, rather than from other places in Namibia
Cape buffalo
. Prices in Botswana are generally higher than in Zambia, so people cross informally over to Zambia to buy what they need. The police usually look the other way."X There are three lodges on the island, and they all employ local people. Patrick¡¦s village is on the other end of the island. It takes him about an hour to get home, which can be a problem if he has to stay at the lodge until late ¡V and be back at 6am to take a client fishing.
"X The Caprivi strip was created as a way for Germany to connect Namibia to Tanzania ¡V but this didn¡¦t really ever work out.
"X The island had been a military zone during the war with SWAPO and after independence. Patrick clearly doesn¡¦t trust the military ¡V says their solution is to pull a trigger. Prefers the police, which he feels works more within the rule of law.
"X Patrick credits the previous PM (who was education in the US) with preventing a war with Botswana by encouraging negotiation over conflict.
"X We saw some poles that used to support a solar panel, which provided power to a water pump, which provider water to the school ¡K but someone stole the solar panels and they won¡¦t be replaced.
Red lechwe
"X The lodge has provided water taps to the closest village so that children no longer have to risk crocodile attack when fetching water. Three children were attacked by crocodile last year; one survived but the bodies of the other two were never found."X We saw the house of a man who used to be emissary to Germany but is now emissary to China. His sister is married to the island witch doctor (herbalist).
"X Before a flood in the 1950s, the island was uninhabited. After the flood, people were moved from the lowlands to the island. The elephants that used to live on the island are now seasonal visitors. Patrick says they can sometimes block his road at night when he¡¦s trying to get home.
Eventually, we reached the baobab tree on the highest point of the island. It had been used by South African military as a lookout point (and target practice; the tree is riddled with bullet holes, and scars have formed over most holes). We rested briefly, then Patrick and the kids climbed the tree. Paul and I both started up but didn¡¦t feel secure enough (especially Paul with his recovering broken shoulder) to continue. K&K said the view was smoky, but nice.
We were given a lift home in the truck
Fish traps
. We dropped Patrick at a small bakke, which he was supposed to start and drive home. He lifted the bonnet and declared, ¡§There¡¦s no battery!¡¨ We left him there, miffed and waiting for a tow.Had lunch, followed by siesta.
In the afternoon, we went out for another game viewing cruise. We saw a lot of great birds. Also, a group of elephants drinking water, then giving themselves sand baths. Our greatest excitement came when we were trying to view two lions (very far away) from the middle of a hippo pool. The hippos kept looking at us, then submerging. None was really threatening, but one did open its huge mouth and bare its teeth. Patrick told us a charming story: many years ago, the hippos lived in the bush, but it was always unhappy because it was thirsty and its skin was always dry. So, it asked the god if it could go live in the water. The god said, ¡§If you live in the water, you will eat all my fish, and I will have no fish left.¡¨ So the hippo replied, ¡§I will make you a deal. If you let me live in the river, I will open my mouth every morning, to show you that there are no fish bones and fish scales, only grass. And I will defecate on the land, so you can see that I have not eaten any fish, only grass.¡¨ So the god allowed the hippo to move to the river, and that is why the hippo opens his mouth wide every morning, to show that he has kept his bargain with the god.
We had cocktails in the evening ¡V the kids are developing a taste for gin and tonics ¡V then dinner. We sat next to a couple from England and talked about a variety of things: she¡¦s a high school teacher at a state all-girls school (very unusual) and he¡¦s a chemical engineer who has done work in Argentina, Pakistan, all over the world. Very interesting, fun couple. Really into fishing. We closed the joint down again.
