To Impalila Island
Trip Start
Jul 12, 2008
1
19
25
Trip End
Aug 04, 2008
Impalila Island,
Namibia
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
It was a nice drive, thought the game viewing wasn't great. We saw elephants (at a distance), impala, giraffe, tseebee, zebra, ostrich (six females together), wildebeests, a couple of owls, an eagle. Spotted the tracks of two lionesses but no signs of the cats.
When we reached the airport, the pilot went through his pre-flight checks while we nibbled sandwiches by the jeep. Then - it was time to go. We said good-bye to Osi and Mo, and they went to go scare a group of impala off the runway while we climbed on board the plane
Over Botswana
.I took the front seat this time. We had an interesting view over northern Botswana - the periodic villages, the marshlands, the rivers that snake their way through the plateau, often double-back on themselves, or diverting off to loops. I would love to compare the landscape now versus during the rainy season.
It was a smooth flight - at about 9500' - but I was growing increasingly nervous, watching the fuel gauges fall to empty. I assumed the pilot knew what he was doing ... but I also noticed that we parked at the fuel pump immediately upon landing, rather than taxiing up to the building. But perhaps that SOP.
We were met by a driver - who I decided had been a mercenary for UNITA during the Angolan civil war and was now reduced (or elevated) to escorting tourists around Botswana. In any case, we were directed to Botswana immigration (which had the best poster ever: "Masterbation, Do it For Yourself"), where we exited the country, then placed on board a small powerboat. We went upriver to Impalila Island, and were dropped at a small - not really a beach, more a river bank. From there, we were directed to walk up the track to the baobab tree, then proceed to the shack for Namibian immigration
Yellow-billed stork
. We did so - and decided it was definitely the most ... exotic? bizarre? ... boarder crossing we've every done. (Maybe the entrance to Bolivia from Peru was equally quaint - at least in 1976 - but I have no memory of that.) Finally, we were transferred to Ichobe River Lodge.We sat in the lounge and had drinks, while Ralph, the owner, gave us our briefing. We were then shown to our tents, up on the bank, above the river. The bedrooms are tents - quite roomy - and the bathrooms have half-walls plastered, and are enormous - about the size of the tents. Doors (screen and teak) open from the tent to the bathroom, which has a canvas roof, and from the tent to the porch. Insects can sneak in but they say the snakes seem to have left the area.
We had lunch shortly after our arrival - very tasty as all our meals have been so far. Chatted for a bit with a couple from England who are her for the fishing.
Brief rest after lunch, then to the boats for our game view cruise. Our guide is Patrick - very laid back; almost asleep. The river is very swift in front of the lodge (as it is a small channel off the main river) but opens up just beyond
The landing strip
. We headed towards Chobe Park. First, we stopped to view the yellow-billed storks nesting - the colonies filled several trees along the river bank. We also saw a number of crocodiles lying in the sun, including one about 3 metres long (which Patrick assured us was not a large one). From there, we checked into Chobe. The river is wide, with a large island (submerged during part of the year) that was the object of a dispute between Botswana and Namibia in the 1990s. The two countries almost went to war over the island but agreed to abide by arbitration from an International Court - which ruled in Botswana's favour.
Patrick pointed out the number of fallen trees along the riverbank - the work of elephants (mostly). There has been talk about trying to cull some of the 65,000 elephants, but they apparently become vey angry when one of their number is killed - so culling them would have to involve killing an entire herd, making sure not even one remained. Patrick said that they've begun to have real problems with elephants who come from Zimbabwe. Apparently, given the economic chaos of that country, poaching of elephants is common - for meat, for ivory - and the surviving elephants are angry and hate humans - so they attack us upon sight. As poaching becomes worse, the elephants have fled Zimbabwe to safe(r) haven in Botswana - but have begun killing people there. It's all a mess.
We did see a lot of elephant, plus baboons, impala, hippo, cape buffalo ... and two new antelopes: puku and red lechwe. It was lovely on the river; very relaxing.
Returned to the lodge just before sunset, to go rest up before dinner. Dinner was fine - and Paul and I spent a long time afterwards talking to Dawn and Ralph (proprietors) about Nelson Mandela and the Truth and Reconciliation process. Very interesting. Finally, to bed - to listen to the rapids and the otters calling to each other.
