Delhi-Clowns To The Left Of Me Jokers To The Right

Trip Start Mar 03, 2005
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Tuesday, June 7, 2005

Goatgirl heads home to the US in a few days, so the last main aim of her sub-continental jaunt was a visit to Agra and the Taj Mahal. Somehow we had to make it from Rishikesh down through Delhi to Agra, and hopefully all in one go.

There was a Deluxe Bus running from Rishikesh to Agra, but I could simply not face another 12 hour ride through un-airconditioned hell in the Indian Summer. With the help of an American couple who had just come into town from Delhi by rented car, we organised a cheap deal via their driver for their return journey, which they weren't actually going to use. The driver was still near Rishikesh and was returning to Delhi, so it was the perfect opportunity for us to get a great deal, and for him to make some extra cash. The theory was to get to Delhi via a cool car, then catch an air-con bus down to Agra all in one day.

But this is India and plans never really go to plan.

Shabir, the gentleman I was booking the car with via phone was a little sketchy when I asked how much he would charge if we skipped Delhi and went to Agra. "My friend, we'll organise that price when you get to Delhi to the office, no problem" he said.

That was an error. I gave them the hope of making more money out of the scenario, and I shouldn't have opened my mouth. I'm sure that the driver did a 'go-slow' in order to get us to Delhi at the latest time possible so we would have been left with no chance of catching a bus - thus increasing his chances of getting an extended booking and an extended amount of cash. The five hour trip lasted seven. To cut a long story short, I ended up angry at the driver and at Shabir via phone, as they farted us around over and over again.

Indian Quality Taxi Service.

Goatgirl too has been farted around by a travel agent from McLeod Ganj, some two weeks prior. She purchased a ticket from Delhi to Hong Kong in order to catch her connecting flight home - but she was still yet to see the ticket, even though she had handed over the cash. Deepak from Destination Travels in downtown McLeod Ganj had promised to have it there in the Ganj but didn't deliver, and then promised to send it to Manali and didn't deliver, and then promised to send it to a colleague in Delhi. We took the opportunity to visit that colleague, another Travel Agent in Delhi, to pick up the ticket while we were there.

The ticket still wasn't in Delhi. Deepak was still yet to deliver. Indian Quality Travel Agent.

The word 'fuck' can sometimes get you a long way, and it worked. Goatgirl went nutso at Deepak, his colleague and the office girl. It only took them 30 minutes to get another ticket delivered.

Somehow in India, even though they frustrate the living bejeezus out of you, they are the ones who make you feel bad just for demanding what you've already paid for.

We were stuck in Delhi for the night. But that can have its advantages. Delhi isn't a Holy city. They have beer.

It was mid forties in the early evening but the Regency Gold Bar was chilled with air-conditioning and their Castle Beer had been in the fridge all day. Oh it was good. I was almost giddy and emotional with delight at its delicate bubbles, its thirst-quenching flavour, its icy coolness..... Ahhhh, that's better.

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