Chengdu - Panda-ring To All Your Needs
Trip Start
Mar 03, 2005
1
14
235
Trip End
Ongoing
Chengdu,
China
Saturday, April 16, 2005
Sichuan Airlines is famous for a combination of both - a rollicking up and down ride that makes your stomach turn nasty. I had to maintain eye contact with a lone star out the window to establish that the big bird wasn't falling out of the sky. I had no idea what airline I was travelling on until boarding in Chengdu for the trip to Xian, and next time I may think again.
Murray's Rule Of Travel # 6: When arriving at a strange big city at night, always book your first night's accommodation.
On arrival in Xian I got to chatting to an Irish couple, and we agreed to split the cab to the guesthouse they had booked. David was the kind of Irish guy who could use the word fuck as an adjective, verb and noun in the same sentence. "Well fook me, how did you like that fookin' plane ride going up and fookin' down all the fookin' time, and as for the fookin' screaming well fook me...."
The guesthouse was fully booked. Hence I made the decision at 11.30pm at night to switch across town to another guesthouse. On arrival there, I awoke the attendant, who was looking splendid in his pyjamas. He said that they were currently renovating, but they had rooms available 200 metres up the road. Off I trudged in the pouring rain to what I thought was a bed for the night.
On arrival there, I woke another attendant, who was also looking a treat in her jim-jams. She told me they were fully booked and that the other attendant should not have directed me there. I think she spotted my anger, as she quickly gave me a free map, and agreed to ring a nearby hotel to find a room for me, as it was well after midnight by this stage.
Murray's Rule Of Travel # 7: For god's sake, read rule 6.
Thankfully they did have a room, so I was checked in by 1am.
When Alby Mangel's was filming his "World Safari" documentary series in the 80s, he was often met by a new travel companion in every town, and all were stunning models in bikinis. However, my mission today was to head to the airport, and pick up "Four Star Quent".
Prior to FSQ's entry into my world of travel, my aims were to check into the plush surroundings of a four star hotel, do some washing, go to the gym at the aforesaid plush surroundings, grab some food, and catch the bus out to the boonies where FSQ's flight was arriving from home. Plans don't often come to fruition in parts of China. The plush abode told me that the room wasn't ready, but I could leave my bags. They also told me that the gym was not open until 2pm, so I was instantly unhappy with my investment there. "No use having plushness if the plushness is closed" is an old chinese saying, or perhaps it should be.
Instead I headed out to find food. I was told by the plush hotel that we were located on a point on the map in the south-east of the city. After galavanting round lost for a good half-hour looking for a nearby restaurant I'd heard of, I jumped into a cab and pointed to my map, hoping he knew where I was heading. Another 25 minutes later, we arrived in the south-east of town - it appears that our plush hotel are flush of brains, as the hotel is actually in the north west of town. So my morning's aims were ruined, and I headed out to the airport.
FSQ refused to put on the bikini. I was disappointed to say the least.
My inital role in FSQ's arrival was to lecture him on the situation here in China - "remember you are in charge of your bowels, they are not in charge of you. And always go before you leave the hotel. And they'll spit alot. And they'll push you round alot...".
While FSQ was showering I thought I'd hit the gym - only to be told by the attendant that I would have to pay to use it. This is another thing that drives me crazy - when a hotel says its got facilities, but then asks for you to pay for them. Its a bit like saying "we've got a bathroom and towels for you, but you'll have to pay a little more to use them". I used my towering height (at least a foot taller than any of the hotel staff) to look as mean and nasty as possible, and eventually got to use it for nix. A victory for the good guys.
Our main reason for heading to Chengdu was for the Panda Sanctuary and Rehabilitation Centre. Although none appeared to require rehab, all were remarkably cute (although the white bits are more an entoucaer orange), and literally a couple of metres away from you, chewing merrily on bamboo. There were about a dozen young and adult Pandas, and all seemed very content with their Panda Four Star treatment. FSP's....
FSQ forked over a small fortune to have a Panda cub (around 40kg's) sit right next to him, eat apples, let him pat him, and pose for photos. The Panda chose to also pat FSQ, but ever so gently by placing his paw onto FSQ's hand. It was a touching experience all round.
I have seem too many TV specials such as 'When Friendly Animals Attack, All Caught On Film, Number 43' and chose just to take the photos rather than participate, telling the Panda to "make love to the camera, you're cute and you know it....."
I did however take up the option of feeding and cuddling a Red Panda, who are smaller, redder, and more like a large rat/racoon cross than killer bear. It sat contented on my lap, eating apple, as I scratched its ear. Another did roam in and gently jump on my leg, but I suspect that the apple was laced with valium, as I hardly noticed it. I made love to the camera as best as I could with one furry animal on me and another pawing at my knee.
All in all visiting the animal symbol of China was a wonderfully worthwhile experience.
We made it back to town, Panda spit on our legs and all, and searched for food. Chengdu is meant to be a home of culinary delights, but we were forced to settle for a McPee and food as those delights must be hidden somewhere. The process was repeated at dinner time - we trounced around this bloody town for three hours before findins a respectable place to eat. And as it turned out, the Chinese they served us was Sichaun traditional. In other words, in FSQ's own words, Johnny Cash's "Ring Of Fire" was our theme song.
Three nights in Chengdu is probably two nights over par.
