Adrianmurray's travel blogs:
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Nha Trang
Entry 17 of 24 | show all | print this entry |
SORE THROAT, CUT THROAT RAZOR, and PROP PLANES
I am coming down with a sore throat. No its not SARS so stop thinking that
you evil person you. I suspect its the under-chlorinated pool in Hoi An
which has given me a throat infection. ("Dr Murray, Dr Murray, paging Dr
Murray....") Out come the anti-biotics purchased from home for occasions
such as these.
Off to Danang airport early (about 30km from Hoi An) by car and then its a
one hour flight to the beachside city of Nha Trang. The plane is of the
propellar kind, though its a big one so its less Indiana Jones than it
sounds. Nha Trang airport is basically 500 metres from the middle of town,
so after being dropped of at a hotel I didn't like I walked around town
looking for a place to stay. For the first time on the trip many hotels are
actually full, as Nha Trang is also popular with Vietnamese tourists, and it
is a Saturday. I do eventually find a good place, leave my pack, hire a
bicycle and head to Lousiana.
Lousiana is a cafe on the beach that has its own pool, deckchairs, and stops
many of the vendors coming in to hassle you to see if you want to by
cigarettes, plastic toys, dried squid or anything else they hapen to be
carrying. Lying down on a deckchair is Vinh, an English girl named Kristie
who was on the My Son tour, and another English bloke named Rich. Hence 5
minutes in and there are friendly faces in this town. They were tucking in
to fresh crab caught and cooked by locals, and sold on the beach. I only
came down here to eat so I said I'd be back a little later for a swim.
I went back to town to grab my togs, and called in for a haircut (yep the
clippers are out again). The female barber gave me the number one and then
pulled out a cut throat razor to finish the job. I declined that part of the
service.... I then went for a quick ride around town to see what I could
see, followed by a trip back to the beach. The rest of the afternoon's
daylight hours were spent lounging around, dozing and swimming, and watching
parasailers fall from the sky at alarming speeds. Those in charge of the
boat and parachute don't look highly professional, as at one stage the boat
almost runs over a swimmer, and another bloke crashes to the sand after the
boat stopped too quickly.
The four of us met for dinner later, going to an outdoor restaurant straight
from the Gilligan's Island set, with bamboo everywhere and banana trees
dangling over the tables. The food was sensational - an amazing Vietnamese
Chicken clay pot - probably the best meal so far in Vietnam. Vinh, Kristie
and I book a four island snorkelling tour for tomorrow.
ROUGH SEAS, PROFESSIONAL BEACH VOLLEYBALL and PENNY PINCHING
After a mighty fine pineapple pancake and now obligatory Vietnamese coffee
(nectar o' the gods, my sweet little caffeinated friend...) and some
anti-biotics, we set of via mini bus to the port for our snorkelling trip
around Nha Trang.
The boat ride to the first snorkelling stop, about an hour away, was
reasonably choppy in parts. Nha Trang's surrounding islands to the south
protect it to a certain extent, but once you get towards the farther
islands, its more open. The equipment was supplied to us as part of the
tour, and unfortunately it was rather shoddy. The mask was in need of some
Selley's All Clear around the edges, and it was impossible to lock the
snorkel to the mask. There were some fish and some blue corals, but not as
good as I've seen elsewhere. It was more fun jumping off the top of the boat
into the deep side of the water.
Moving on to the next island, and the water started to get choppier. We
stopped off at the island for an early lunch, which was actually very good
for a banquet style tour meal. This island had a pebble beach, and
deckchairs under umbrellas for relaxing in. Alas, there was rubbish
everywhere floating just offshore so swimming wasn't an option. After taking
one family back to Nha Trang (due to a couple of the kids feeling seasick)
the boat returned and we headed back out into the now rough seas.
The tour guide told us that we couldn't go to one good spot due to the wind
and seas, so we headed to another spot. Major dud. Craptacular. There were
hardly any fish, the corals were all dead, and the water was quite murky.
Apart from those positives, as the swell was up I was also a little worried
about a couple of small kids who had jumped in with us, who's swimming
abilities weren't up to scratch. So I hung around them while the boat
circled a few times as it couldn't anchor properly due to the swell. All
going swimmingly isn't it.
We all finally got back on board and headed to the last spot. We are now
talking Bass Strait sized waves. The Sydney to Hobart is out of the question
for me at this point. We made it to the last island, a fishing village where
we have the option of trying out bamboo rafts with the locals, which are
like upturned bamboo hats. Most decline including me, except for an Irish
couple who give it a go and get soaked. Ta be shore, ta be shore....
Back in the boat for the last stretch home to Nha Trang. There's a local
lady in the row of seats behind me cradling her young child who he is
sleeping, while she is throwing up due to seasickness. Thankfully I move my
bag in time to avoid the splashback, and get off the boat unscathed.
After a clean up at the hotel, I head to the beach to watch a professional
beach volleyball competition. There are packed grandstands, and 'Liptons Ice
Tea' signs everywhere (they are the only sponsors). Local volleyballers slug
it out. I got some great photos from over the shoulders of Vietnamese Army
officers, looking splendid in their bright olive uniforms and peak hats,
watching fellas in yellow and blue speedos dive across the sand. Hmmmm,
would Ho have approved of such activities....
I had some great Italian food for dinner with Vinh and Rich. The latter is a
seriously penny-pinching late thirties backpacker, telling us how he
selected this place because its dishes are 1000 Dong (ten cents) cheaper
than another place. I personally think to myself that he is tighter than a
fish's bottom, as the difference between $1.50 versus $1.60 ain't much. And
his name is rather ironic too.
SAME SAME PAGODA BUT NOT DIFFERENT, NO LEFT TURN and NHA TRANG SAILING CLUB
After a pineapple pancake and coffee (spot the pattern) I decided to indulge
in a ridiculous concept - dessert after breakfast. I ordered the coconut
filled with ice cream. Basically they cut the top off a coconut and put in
three scoops of ice cream. You then eat the ice cream and also scoop the
coconut flesh off. Sensational.
I decided to hire a motorbike and explore some of the sights of Nha Trang
outside of walking distance. The deal is $2.50 for 6 hours, so I head off
into the main streets. The traffic is busier than anticipated - busier than
anywhere I've been, so I'm reduced to solely taking left turns (remembering
you drive on the right) as otherwise I might get wiped out.
The Lonely Planet map is a shocker, as I end up back at the same roundabout
three times while trying to find Long Son Pagoda. I finally found it and
parked the motorbike, hoping that it will be there later. A local takes me
around the grounds the long way, through the bush, to a reclining and
sleeping Buddha and another Pagoda. Its obvious after a while that he's
taking me the long way to pad-out the tour and thus ask for more money......
prior to pointing me to the top of the hill and another giant white Buddha
(only 100 metres from the original Pagoda by the normal way, but about 750m
if you go the way he took me) he indicates he's forgotten to remind me to
donate money to the Pagoda's donation box. So he asks me for it and
indicates he'll take it back. Sure you will buddy.
I return to the motorbike to thankfully find it there, and head off for the
Po Nagar Cham Towers across town. Out in the streets I end up at the same
roundabout as before, so I make a turn and head off. I kept on going till I
realise that the surprise looks on the locals faces (the "what the hell is
that white bloke doing on a motorbike round here" look) is probably
indicating I'm not going in the correct direction. I make a U-turn, and end
up riding past the Pagoda again. Somehow I manage to do that a second time
before giving up on the LP map, and following my nose. Which leads me up a
one way street, the wrong way. Now that's a fun thing to do on a motorbike
in Vietnam, let me tell you.
After spending some time at the Towers, I headed off down some backstreets
to find the coastline again. I ended up at a new bridge, with a perfectly
prepared piece of road that leads to nowhere. They are paving the way for a
tourist explosion over the next 5 years I expect, as the footpaths and pot
plant holes are all ready, with no buildings next to them. The nearest
buildings are some shanty style homes next to the river. I'd think the poor
will get shoved elsewhere so the highrise hotels don't have them in their
backyards.
Back to the hotel after a further ride around, and then its back to the
beach. The four English girls are now in town, so there is now a larger
group of friendly faces in Nha Trang. Dinner is back at the hot-pot place
with Gilligan. Kristie (the other English girl) introduces me to a guy she's
booked a dive trip through for tomorrow - he's got a familiar face... as it
turns out he lives in St Kilda, and was the former owner of "That Little
Noodle Place" on Chapel Street, which was always good for a quick bite prior
to a movie at the Jam Factory. Small world.
After dinner its drinks at the Nha Trang Sailing Club (which does not have a
boat in sight, its just a blatent attempt to get Westerners in to have
drinks there, and its working). Then its au-revoir to everyone as I'm
heading off tomorrow to Dalat. Chances are I won't see some of them again on
the trip as they are staying longer here, and may not get to Saigon prior to
me moving on. Its all a little sad really.... because of the 30 day visa
situation in Vietnam, you tend to end up with the same people in the same
cities, as everyone either works north-south or vice-versa, at about the
same pace. They tell me it won't be the same without having a funny
Australian around. I can only hope they meant humourous.
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