Perrito Moreno - Absolutely Breathtaking!

Trip Start Dec 22, 2009
Trip End Jun 22, 2010

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Where I stayed
Hosteria Rukahue

Flag of Argentina  , Santa Cruz,
Saturday, April 24, 2010

Losing track of time is pretty easy when you have a wonderful Portena named Adrianna serving you breakfast and you are searching for the goat cheese that fell off the window cell the previous evening (because Adam was too lazy to walk to the fridge; bastard). After dusting off the foil package, we geared up and jogged down the gravel path to El Chalten and our German buddy waiting at the Avis dealership somewhere on the main strip. With a quick glance at the watch we were definitely on Hispanic time and not German time. That is a problem when a German has just rented the car that you are supposed to be sharing. At this point we started a brisk morning jog. It was also at this point when I realized that no matter how many diarrhea pounds I had shed, that I was still pretty overweight and out of shape. Deep breath, choke, deep breath, quick glance at advancing wife, gulp, where the hell's the Avis station? Laura then proceeds to give me the extremely disappointed mother look as I admit that we must have jogged past. Hell, I was too busy suppressing the loss of pride with the 10 minute leisurely jog. After a quick set of directions from a local policeman and some backtracking we were happy to find Stephan finalizing the paper work. Also in tow, the legendary Tony Maki.

Tony Maki, mid to late thirty something part time Occupational Therapist, part time world traveler was more than interesting and was going to be number four in our crew for the next couple of days. By the way, did I mention that he grew up in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan? Say yah to da U.P. eh!!. This is a pretty great point for a brief humble story a la Tony Maki. So I decided to volunteer in a remote village in Kenya after I had gotten my OT license. My case was a young African adult who had suffered head trauma during a motor cycle injury. During this assignment, I stayed with the family in their rural African home while I attempted to rehabilitate their child. From the first day, I knew it was going to be tough. Not only was the young man confused, he was also very abusive and violent. Each day I caught him doing malicious things. This caused me some concern because I felt that I may be subjecting myself to some kind of injury. Each day I told the family that they needed to work with the boy to discourage the negative behavior. Unfortunately the family coddled the child more than assisted. Unfortunately it got really bad one day and the patient threw a sharp knife at me. Luckily, I escaped with no major injury be knew that the situation had gotten really bad. With not that many options, I dictated the case with my prescribed regiment of treatment as clearly and completely as I could. I then proceeded to break the hell out of there and just started walking away from the property down some deserted Kenyan road. I really had no idea where I was going or where the nearest town was; I was just happy that I was no longer in danger in that house. After walking for a couple hours, I cam across a nearby farm and asked for some food and shelter. I explained my story to the owner of the property and was really regretful that Kenya gad turned out to be such a disaster. After hearing my story, the farmer was moved to show that Kenya had a really great things to offer, and shortly there after I found myself sitting next to him in a two seater cessna that he had parked in the rear of his property. From the air you could see the beautiful plains and animals. Once he found a good spot for a safari launch, he brought down the small aircraft and told me that he would be back in a couple of days.  After dropping me off, I was on my own for a few, but I was able to later join an organized group and fell asleep to the sounds of lions and elephants each night.  That chance situation changed my whole perspective on my Kenya experience."

Back to my story, as Stephan was looking over the car, scratch  here, dent here, we began to pile our day packs into the backseat of a white two door micro mobile. The ride to the Parque Nacional los Glaciares was peaked with deserted roads, prancing vicunas and amazing vistas. Snow capped mountains framed desolate desert plains. Picture here, picture there and we had made it to our destination.

The Perrito Moreno Glacier is one of the most beautiful natural structures on this planet. Pouring down from the sides of two opposing mountainsides the extremely massive iceberg rises from a molten pool below. The ice gleams bright white highlighted with deep blue and is located in one of the most serene places in the world. In the remote and quiet surroundings the only thing that can be heard is the loud cracks of the glacier breaking off in the heat of the sun. The loud cracking and swelling sounds like gunshots. Honestly, we were all captivated by the beauty. After getting a chance to walk through the boardwalks that face the glacier, we took a couple of other small walks in the national park area and then headed back to the Calafate area.
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Laura S. on

What an amazing place! You guys have seen parts of the world the rest of us only dream of... so lucky!

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