Cuscotopia
Trip Start
Jan 30, 2008
1
45
63
Trip End
Ongoing
Cusco,
Peru
Monday, October 6, 2008
It was really great to spend some time with the folks after almost 8months away and we managed to engage in lots of eating (we even had a Sunday roast - what bliss) and drinking (cocktail sampling) and chattering about places visited, impressions of South America and general gossip. On one special meal out Simon and Linz tried the Peruvian specialty of Coy (guinea pig) gourmet style (we had Coy confit!!) which we have to say was very tasty epecially when you didn´t have to see the poor thing splayed out like in the markets - sorry Tufty
Llama encounter
! So we parted ways and Mum and Dad went onto visit Macchu Picchu before heading home from Lima whilst Simon and Linz embarked on a gruelling 5 day trek which took them up to Machhu Picchu the long way round. The Salkantay trek was touch on our feet and lungs but worth the effort. The scenery was amazing, starting from a sleepy little town in the heat of thw sun and winding our way up to a 4600m mountain pass with stunning views of snowcapped mountains, rushing andean steams and cuddly looking llamas/alpacas (can never tell the differnece). Hiking at altititude is hard work but with our few days acclimatising we didn¨t suffer too bad- we tried chewing the cocoa leaves but it nearly made Linz throw up so we carried on relying on pure endurance. And in spite of being the oldest couple on our trek (just!) we weren´t always the slowest. Coming down was just as difficult (on the knees and feet) and the hot springs we visited in Santa Teresa were a welcome relief! Our fellow trekkers came from all over the world and we learned how to stay stick your head in a pig in Czech, Basque, Dutch and Afrikanner! On night 3 we had a close call when our tents were raided whilst we were asleep/passed out but due to the huge mess and Simon´s feet nothing was knicked from ours. Our friend Brett had his bag and shoes taken though but bravely competed the trek in Peruvian "Nike Airs" that squeeked every step
Early morning Salcantay start
! To comiserate the following night we decided to go out for a few drinks in Aguas Calientes which ended up in a Karakoe session. Our version of Yellow Submarine was a particular favourite with the locals!The next morning at 3:30 we awaok to climb up to Maccu Piccu, with the rememnants of hangovers and 4 hours sleep. Unfortunately it was pissing down. And all we remember is stairs stairs stairs. In the dark and wet. Eternal stairs! We made it to the top though and funnily enough it was worth it. Machu Picchu, the most visited place in Peru, remains magical despite tourists, cloud and general cold and dampness. In fact the mists gave the ruins perched on the tip of a mountain a more mystical feel, and the views, once the weather beagtn to clear are just incredible.
We headed from here to Ollataytabo - another Inca town in the hills. Due to a general transport strike we spent all day wandering around what is normally a really touristy town but due to the strike it was completely deserted apart form the local protesters dressed up in their traditional red blanket attire. We tried to locate the Cheescake factory shop that Simon had spotted on our way in the previous night but it forever evaded us. We also had an excellent guided explanation of the local ruins which were the best example we saw of the amazing Inca stonemanship where every stone is crafted so that not only are the walls seismically safe but they fit together perfectly, without mortar - you can¨t get so much as a razorblade between the joins. We are still divided as to whether the Incas were just really patient and skilled stonemasons or whether the conspriacy theorists are right and this is evidence of aliens........ in the next episode of the X files we venture to Arequipa!
