Day 1 - So it begins
Trip Start
Dec 17, 2007
1
3
30
Trip End
Feb 14, 2008
Fukuoka,
Japan
Monday, December 17, 2007
I took the Super Oki 3 express train that runs between Tottori and Shin-Yamaguchi stations along the Japanese Sea through the prefectures of Tottori, Shimane, and Yamaguchi. This area is called the Sanin and is the back side of Japan and is less developed then the other side of the mountains that run down through the center of western Japan. It is only a single line so even the express trains has to wait to let the other train pass going the other way. The Sanin is not very developed and is countryside with many rice fields and hills covered in bamboo, pines, and a mix of trees holding on to their fall colors. There are clusters of homes in small hamlets and a few small cities but it is still probably 5 times the population density that the Southern Oregon coast has. The Oki in Super Oki refers to the Oki islands that lay off the coast of the Sanin which I have visted twice and love. This is one reason that I took the train along with the fact that I wanted to see the entire length of the Japan sea coast. It would have been faster if I took a train over the mountains and catch the Shinkansen at Okayama which would probably would cut the travel time in half.
The mountain that run down the backbone of western Japan were covered in snow. Daisen,k the tallest mountain in Western Japan had its peak in the clouds.
For lunch, I had an Ekiben which means a station box lunch.
Kani-zushi
Sold at train stations and on trains across Japan, each local area produces box lunches that reflects their local products and tastes. I had the Kani-sushi which is crab meat over vineagear rice served cold. It was pretty good. Some Ekibens are very famous and people travel solely to sample the famous ekibens.The Super Oki follows the rugged Shimane coast line before cutting inland over the mountains of Yamaguchi. Went through a valley that reminded me of Camas Valley in Oregon with peaks riming the valley.
5 hours on a train is a long time but I have my iPod to keep me company (listened to Mr. Children and a mix of my favorite Jpop hits). I try to read the newsaper but its not the smoothest ride with lots of jolts and jerks along with the fact it has a diseal engine. So, I look out the window and watch the Japanese country side speed by. I finally reached Shin-Yamaguchi at around 3 pm and changed to the Kodama Shinkansen which is the lowest of the Shinkansen classes and stops at every station (Asa?) and it also had only 4 cars compared to 16 on the Nozomi Shinkansen.
After a short trip of a hour, I arrived at Hakata station in Fukuoka city and Kyushu. I went directly to my ryokan to check in and then went out to explore the city before it got too dark. I wanted to see the large park which has a big pond that has a series of long narrow islands running down the center of and where you can walk. I had seen this park in one of my favorite NHK morning dramas, Hashiranka from over 10 years ago so I wanted to walk down the same path as they done. It was a large park and they had a nice running path that circled the pond which was filled with many runners, joggers, dog walkers, young and old. As I crossed the island I remember the characters from the drama.
I didn't have any firm plan but headed back towards my ryokan through the crowded city secrets and busy city center. I had a vague idea about trying to find the famous Yatai's, which are small stands selling food. After a bit of a wander, I found them. They have a small roof with plastic curtains hanging down protecting the people from the rain and cold. There is a counter with 12 stools around it with the cook behind the counter. I wanted to eat the famous tonkatsu ramen which I had along with some grilled meat. It was delicous and it was pretty cool sitting around the crowded counter.
The ryokan that I am staying at is very old with long wooden hallways that creak and grownn when people walk down. I have a great room,, 8 mats with a view of a small garden with a Japanese maple in red. The bathrooms are shared but it is pretty cheap and close to station.
The first day of my trip is finished and it went well. Tomorrow, it is off to Yufuin and its hot springs. I hope everyone will enjoy reading my blog.
