TravelStream™ news feed for member yenni on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/yenni en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:24:55 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1107193260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1107193260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1107193260/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:24:55 -0400 A month in Tanzania - my first time on the southern hemisphere.

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Mwanza, Tanzania

I got pretty depressed when I returned from Serengetti. The reasons are personal and not interesting so I wont bother you. Anyway the result was that I hopped on the nearest bus to Mwanza because I desperately needed other wazungu around me. And I knew Mwanza can't be a bad choice. And it wasn't. I ve met a couple of interesting people (a group of Canadian biologists and one nurse working on projects here) and I had time to recover, get new strength and move on.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106846100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106846100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106846100/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:24:20 -0400 A month in Tanzania - my first time on the southern hemisphere.

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Serengetti, Tanzania

Serengetti is part of a greater area located in northern Tanzania and southern Kenya. Millions of animals are migrating between Masai Mara in Kenya and Serengetti in Tanzania, following the rain. And following these millions of wildebeests and zebras are lions, cheetahs and other predators. And following the predators are hyenas and other scavengers. Which makes it a pretty big crowd. So the only thing you must take into account when visiting either reservations is wether the animals will be there too! :-)
I was lucky.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106768580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106768580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106768580/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:23:59 -0400 A month in Tanzania - my first time on the southern hemisphere.

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Ngorongoro, Tanzania

The plan is one day in Ngorongoro, one day driving through Ngoro to Serengetti and one day in Serengetti. But really: if it was only one day in Ngorongoro, it would be awesome just the same. On the other hand if it was a week in Ngorongoro, it wouldn't be enough to see it all. Not to mention how much time it would take to see all of Serengetti - because it is such a vast plain. It is impossible to describe how enormous and amazing it is in Ngorongoro crater. So see for yourselves in the photo album. But don't be mistaken - I have made a very very severe selection and chose only a fraction of pictures I took. So in reality there are way more animals and the place is way bigger than it might seem.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106421840/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106421840/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106421840/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:23:25 -0400 A month in Tanzania - my first time on the southern hemisphere.

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Moshi, Tanzania

I wasn't happy about leaving Lushoto, but as I wanted to travel around Tanzania a bit, I decided it was time "to move on". So I moved to Moshi. Not by chance of course, I know someone here. A family and it was at their house that I ve spent these three days. Mostly lying back, watching geckoes on the veranda, washing my clothes and admiring the sight of Mt Kilimanjaro. And with the help of the family's youngest son I managed (well - HE managed) to find an operator who organizes Safari. So after this three lazy days, I will have another three days full of experience, nature and animals. I hope! :)
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106144700/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106144700/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106144700/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:23:03 -0400 A month in Tanzania - my first time on the southern hemisphere.

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Lushoto, Tanzania

A second after I had arrived in Lushoto, I was "caught" by a local guide named Yasin, who turned out to be an actual guide, a cool guy and quite a knowing person. I have spend the first two days in Lushoto walking around the village, getting to know the people and on a trip to the rain forest (yesterday). Today I met with Yasin and we went to Maweni Farm (in Sone - a village a few kilometers from Lushoto), because I was interested in medical plants they are growing there and I hoped to see a couple of chameleons who live in this area. I got lucky: I saw both the chameleons and the medical plants. Both was awesome. But probably the most splendid thing was our evening trip to Irente View Point - a point from which you can overlook the whole Masai Plain.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106083260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106083260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/tanzania_2005/1106083260/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 17:22:41 -0400 A month in Tanzania - my first time on the southern hemisphere.

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Lushoto, Tanzania

Tady bude povidani, az ho prelozim do anglictiny.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/map_pins/1170339480/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/map_pins/1170339480/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/map_pins/1170339480/tpod.html Thu, 01 Feb 2007 09:19:10 -0500 No entries here, just to put the pins on the map.

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Frederikshavn, Denmark

..
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155612480/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155612480/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155612480/tpod.html Wed, 31 Jan 2007 07:13:12 -0500 Want to lose weight? Avoid Nagorno Karabakh!

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Yerevan, Armenia

Yesterday I said goodbye to everyone, thinking I ll be getting up too
early to see them in the morning. When I got up however Anna was
already up too and she was preparing breakfast. I ate a bit, packed my
bag, included a little sandwich from Anna and entered the streets of
sleeping Stepanakert. Walking on the main road and suddenly I hear a
weird noise and I see something running across the street. Looks and
sounds like a herd of cows.) When I walked closer I ve realised that it
was soldiers having their morning excersise. From the distance it
seemed they were half naked, but before I managed to get closer to
enjoy...I mean, to VERIFY my thoughts they were gone. Dissapointed I
hopped on a minibus and got to the main bus station. Everyone seems to
have a reserved seat and I think I actualy got the last empty seat in
the bus. A girl and boy that arrived later, tourists (Canadians I
think) that I ve seen in the NKR embassy five days ago arent that lucky
and have to wait for the next bus.



The trip is not that pleasant. The seat is not comfortable so I cant
sleep, two kids and one young lady are sick and we spent half an hour
on a parking (so that the driver can have lunch, I think).
Unfortunately my sandwich from Anna is in the back of the bus and I
cant get to it. We arrive to Yerevan around 1pm, I get off the bus as
soon as possible and I take the metro to the center to change money. I
have only 400 drams left, which is less than 1 EUR! Yerevans
underground is of the same kind as ours in Prague some 15 years ago. It
is old but not ugly and dirty like the one in Paris.



From the republic square I am heading back to Smbat s house. He said to
me on the phone that he cant go and meet me in the center, because he
had a car crash. He sounds fine though so I imagine a little accident.
But at Smbats I am told a horrible story of Smbat drivind a car when
suddenly the tire explodes, car starts tourning, hits a rock, rolls
over a few times and starts burning. (And well, I ve seen a video of
the car after the crash, so I am completely convinced it was true).
Miraculously Smbat got off nearly uninjured and thanks god no one else
was in the car!



In the evening we have a randez vous with Eric, Kathrine, Berit, ani,
Haykanush and Tico. First we re having a coffee near the Opera (for a
change:-)) and then we go for a walk (without Haykanush and Ani this
time). The best thing is a great "traditional armenian dinner" in a
"traditional armenian restaurant" with waiters wearing "traditional
armenian dresses":-) I can now understand why all the tourists love
"traditional czech restaurants" that are hundreds times more expensive
than usual and where no czech has ever entered. Well - you just want to
experience the stereotype once, even though it is just a theatre. And
so I had summer dolma I ve been looking forward to eating the whole
month. And we had a great time and we had a great fight over paying the
bill:-) But in the end women forces proved stronger than men and we
managed to invite the guys and pay the bill ourselves. The day was
perfect, but all three of us (all the girls) are already looking
forward to being back home.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155463560/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155463560/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155463560/tpod.html Wed, 31 Jan 2007 07:00:24 -0500 Want to lose weight? Avoid Nagorno Karabakh!

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Amaras, Azerbaijan

I slept well, it wasnt too hot during night, so I didnt hurry up with
waking up. However Nara came to call me for breakfast. I was surprised
to see the men drinking vodka even in the morning. And with the toasts
again. Mr. Head-of-the-family asked me if I didnt want to call home.
"Call, say you re not coming back. You ll stay here, we will find you a
husband that studied the Stepanakert institute..." I thanked him for
the offer but refused. "Well at least you ll come back to Karabakh one
day. A will you remember us when you re back home?" Yes, I surely will.
I got a toast to my health and a good husband. Franta s gonna have to
marry me after that, I think:)



With Nara, her husband, kids and nephew we got in their car and went to
Amaras. In my guidebook it says that seeing Amaras for the first time
is confusing. Now I understand why - you follow a road, dried hills are
all around, you see an ocasional tree, vinyards are becoming more
frequent, and all the time you re looking on the hill s tops and search
for the church. And finally you see a little white tower but not on the
top of a hill, but in the middle of a vineyard. The church itself is
quite new, surrounding walls are destroyed, it feels more like a
provincial greek church. Not as the oldest church in Karabakh where
Mesrop Mashot tought his new alphabete (what is now the armenian
alphabete). In the church is a tomb of Grigoris, the grand-son of
Grigor Lusavorich.



Upon arrival I saw that the place was full of soldiers. It made me feel
nervous because I dont actualy have a permission to visit these parts
of Karabakh. Well I think it wouldnt be a problem, but anyways... It
turned out however that these soldiers were here on a visit - just like
us.)



We returned from Amaras around noon. My bus back to Stepanakert leaves
at two pm from a nearby village Cartar. "My family" will drive me there
with a car. I am so ashamed that I cant really express my gratitude -
due to my poor knowledge of russian, not to mention armenian.



After a quick coffee we left to Cartar. I thanked as I could and got on
the bus. Then I ve noticed that there was a little fountain with
drinking water so I left the bus, went to the fountain, drank a bit,
turned back to return but then I saw that Nara´s husband who drove me
here was paying the driver for my seat. I ran back, tried to explain
that I really didnt want him paying for me, that they already did so
much that I just cant accept that. Well, I dont need to say that it was
no use. Nara s husband smiled and ordered me back in the bus. The bus
became full in a few minutes and we left Cartar. Luckily most of the
people got out in Martuni so everyone had a seat for himself from
Martuni to Stepanakert.



I ve been watching the landscape again, from the window. Just before
you reach the city Askeran, you see a whole ghost city - ruins of
houses, broken cars... . The war destroyed everything, but you can see
life coming back to the ruins. But it isnt easy, there are still
landmines in the soil. I remembered holes from bullets that Svetlana
showed me in their house in Martuni. One bullet went through their
piano. War and peace. This country deserves the latter.



After arriving to Stepanakert I went to an internet coffee. I didnt
want to tell my little Karabakh story straight away, I want to keep it
in my head for a while. I feel like in a dream and I dont want to wake
up into the reality by telling and resuming what I ve seen in Karabakh.
Not yet.



Back in Stepanakert I returned to Anna and Vladik s house. I left my
trekking shoes there anyways:) Well the first thing that took place
after my arrival was - surprisingly!! - dinner. Among other things we
had 5 pieces of chicken. Everyone got one (we were four to eat) and one
was left. Well, who do you think that got the last one? Vladik, who has
spend the day painting the kitchen? Or someone else who worked today?
Well, nope. I did. It wasnt until Anna tried to give me her piece of
chicken that I cried in protest and ungratefuly refused. And it was
then that I decided to call my Karabakh travelogue "Want to Loose
Weight? Avoid Nagorno Karabakh!"
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155431100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155431100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/yenni/karabakh_2006/1155431100/tpod.html Wed, 31 Jan 2007 06:47:22 -0500 Want to lose weight? Avoid Nagorno Karabakh!

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Sos, Azerbaijan

Getting up at 6am to get on the bus was not at all nice. Especially when the bed I ve slept in was so comfortable. I ve slept during most of the journey to Stepanakert, and seeing I am going on to Martuni with Svetlana, I ve slept for most of the that journey as well. In Martuni, we went first to Svetlana´s parents house, and - had lunch. However Svetlana has changed her mind about going to Amaras, which means I ll go on alone. Thinking that there were no buses to Amaras today, Svetlana accompanied me to the "main road" leading to the village Sos (base for going to Amaras), where I wanted to hitchhike. The road was quite far, so we ve waved down an empty bus passing by (currently out of service, heading for a gas station just off "my road"). Svetlana gave me a paper with her adress and phone number and assured me that if I wanted to sleep in Martuni, or if I needed anything, I could just come back and she would take care of me. Then she returned home and I was left by the road with the bus driver, who managed to "adopt me" - as most of the local people did when they saw me alone. The driver was not at all fond of my wish to hitchhike. He even ordered me to sit in the shade when he would hitchhike for me.) To say the truth, there were no cars really. It so happened that there was a bus to Sos at around 3pm (in four hours). The driver, named Armen, who obviously didnt want me hitchhiking, persuaded me to take the bus at 3pm instead. To be sure I wont hitchhike all the same, he drove me (with his bus) back to Svetlana´s place. But that was not all, he also gave me a piece of paper, where he wrote a message for his brother, incidentaly living in Sos, asking him to let me sleep in his house. I am hoping, however, I ll manage to return to Stepanakert. But if I dont I will call Anna to tell her I am fine - so that she doesnt worry about me.

In the afternoon, Svetlna packed up some food for me and walked me to the bus station. At the bus station, she asked an elderly lady named Ofelie, if she was going to Sos, and when Ofelie noded, Svetlana asked her to take care of me. They are handing me down here, like a precious parcel that needs watching after:). It turned out however, that Ofelie was actualy the wife of Armen´s brother! And so she said she would take me to her house.

The bus was pretty full. I didnt mind because I knew we werent going far, therefore I didnt mind standing. However a soldier came to the bus´s window and ordered a young boy to stand up and let me sit down. Highly embarassed, but knowing it was of no use to argue, I sat down, but moved to one side so that the boy could sit down with me.

During the trip I was looking out of the window, seeing the landscape destroyed by the recent war, ruined houses, ghost cities, but also green fields - signs of people starting to lead normal lives again. The land is dry, and there are black stones all over the place. They are probably the reason why this place is called Karabakh - black garden.

Soon we got to Ofelie´s house, where I ve met her daughter-in-law Nara and Nara´s two children. Son Vahe (2 years) and daughter Jana (4 years). I was told that Ofelie´s son was also a driver. Yes, he works as a driver, but as I found out later, he is actualy a graduate of law faculty at Stepanakert institute. Nara studied armenian literature, but she is not even counting on finding a job.
Just after my arrival I was given...a snack. Well - people sit around a table, put some peaches, grapes and nuts on it, they chat and ocasionaly take a nut or two. But as I dont understand and dont have much to say, the only thing I could do is...eat.

Later on, Armen´s brother, Ofelie´s husband arrived. He is a merry man, funny, but really hard to understand. And I dont think he knows how to speak with a person that does not know his language. He would have to pronounce clearly, speak slowly, choose words... At one point, I was really frustrated. He kept talking to me, I didnt understand and more and more I had the impression that he must think I am a pretty dull person.

A bit later we started to prepare...dinner. Khorovatz, for a change. It looked like this: Ofelie is cutting meat. I come and ask "can I help?" She replies "net, devocka, chod pakusat (...)" ("no honey, go and have some (...)". Instead of (...) you can add water melon/grapes/nuts/peaches... . In the end I chose a different tactic. I got myslef a knife, walked around the courtyard and whenever someone started cutting something I came and joined.

During our not-that-succesful conversation with Ofelie´s husband, after going through topics such as the average salary here and in the Czech Republic, my parents, my potential local husbands, he asked me wether we had Khorovatz in the Czech rep. I said yes, but not too often. The head of family took it for a "no we dont" and decided to give me a khorovatz lesson. (you cut meat, put it on a stick, put it on a gril, gril it, turn it once in a while...). All that meant, however, that I had to enter a "khorovatz place" which is a small shed with open fire inside, where the temperature reaches boiling point. I tried to escape by pointing out the fact that khorovatz-making was an activity reserved to men, and as a woman I am not worthy to make it myself. He replied that I can learn it here, transfer that wisdom to my father who will therefore become the main khorovatz-maker of our family.

Khorovatz was great, but there would have to be at least fifty of us to eat it all. I was once again encouraged by everyone to take a bit more of this and that, until I reached a point where one more piece of a potatoe would cause a distaster... .
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