TravelStream™ news feed for member weirdism on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/weirdism en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sun, 13 Sep 2009 10:04:54 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/2/1252846405/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/2/1252846405/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/2/1252846405/tpod.html Sun, 13 Sep 2009 10:04:54 -0400 Wanderings and pondering - a week in London.

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London, United Kingdom

At 8:30am, I was already sweating like a dog. But that's the Northern Line for you during rush hour.

My first stop today was North Greenwich in order to attempt a few close up photos of the O2 Arena. Since it’s not possible to get around the site properly, this trip didn’t last long and I soon hopped back on the Jubilee Line to Canary Wharf – an area I hoped would offer up some great images for the project.

Taking no chances, I immediately asked a police-type chap whether it would be OK to take photos in the area using the monopod. He pointed me in the direction of One Canada Square, the iconic tower regularly shown on BBC’s 'The Apprentice’ and the main reason I chose this area for the project.

At the reception, I spoke to a man from the press office who asked lots of questions about what I was doing and intended to do with the photos but, in all honesty, didn’t really give a damn. The reason I was there was because the police-type chap had suggested I might need a permit so that any other security people need not concern themselves with me as I went about my business. The press man said they don’t normally bother issuing permits to folk like me and abruptly hung up the phone. I got the impression that all he really wanted to say was, "Fuck off, do what you like and stop wasting my time." I happily did so.

Back outside, I spoke to the police-type chap again and asked him what constituted a ‘sensitive area’, as this was one condition on my being left alone to take my photos. The only thing he said, as he pointed to the Lehman Brother building, was, “They don’t like anyone taking pictures of their doors.” He did ask me how I got on with the permit request. When I told him that I didn’t need one, he said that was fine. It didn’t really bother him, but like me he thought it would be safer to ask. That said, as I headed off to take the first photo, I heard him radio to his colleagues that I was in the area and had asked permission to photograph buildings. I didn’t see another security person while I was there so I guess I was doing OK.

After about an hour, I had taken all the photos I wanted (results still to be determined!), ventured on foot further east to get a shot of the O2 Arena from across the river and then took the DLR to Cutty Sark station. From there I made the short walk to Greenwich Park, my target this time being the Old Royal Observatory.

After meandering through the grounds of the Old Royal Naval College and National Maritime Museum, I climbed the steep path to the observatory. Outside the gates, I took the opportunity to snap the vistas on offer from the higher vantage point, including a decent view of Canary Wharf. I then got a couple of shots of the observatory itself before deciding to go inside and try to learn something. Although I got to see some interesting artefacts and learn a little about longitude, the main lesson of the day was how to avoid murdering French school children who seemingly have no respect for their surroundings or other people trying to enjoy said surroundings.

Back outside, I rested a while and enjoyed the sunshine whilst watching an old lady feed a squirrel. The lady held a peanut in her hand. The squirrel approached slowly, but confidently and took the nut from the lady in what I can only describe as a very polite way!

At this point, a dilemma crept upon me. The observatory was the last listed item I wanted to visit for the project. It was barely lunchtime and I then had to decide what else I might want to do for the day. I had about four hours to kill before I needed to head back to the hotel to freshen up before a night out with some old friends. What to do?

I headed back into Greenwich and had a wander round, taking in the Greenwich Market – an arcade of shops with a few market stalls between them. It was in the market that I bought lunch – a Jamaican vegetable stew with rice. It was a large portion, so very good value for money and very tasty too. After that, I headed to where the
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London, United Kingdom

I awoke this morning to news of a strike by tube workers. Fortunately this only affected the Victoria line. Even better news, it didn't cause me any problems at all since I was planning to walk today anyway!



To start the day, I took a stroll along Euston Road to the British Library. I figured it was close by and has a great gateway that I thought would look good as part of the photo project. The building itself didn't look too inspiring but I ventured inside for a little poke around before heading down the road (a different one!) to the British Museum.



Now this was a building worth capturing and one that I hadn't planned to do (I had covered so much of what I wanted yesterday that today became an improvisation day). Upon entering the museum grounds, I asked a security chap if I could use my monopod there. He said it was absolutely fine. I thought it best to ask, having been approached twice yesterday.

Exterior shots gathered, I headed inside where I knew more interesting photos laid in wait. Asking another security person at the door if I could use my monopod, she told me that it might be possible - I may be able to get a 'permit' from the information desk. Alas, it was not to be as in order to do this I'd need to phone in advance of my visit and arrange it all properly. No great loss though, as I had my small camera with me too and used that to collect interesting shots.



Back outside, I took a moment to consult my ever trusty companion, The A-to-Z. It told me I was but a short distance from the BT Tower, a landmark I had on my list even though I knew it would be a challenge to find a decent angle on such a tall, slim building. I tried and failed so cut my losses and moseyed on down to Oxford Street and on toward Marble Arch (again, another landmark I had mysteriously omitted from my list). The plaza was crowded with school groups and other tourists, which meant getting a clear shot was tricky. In the end, I grabbed a few quick photos spoiled only by one group who seemed to be getting a lengthy lecture from their leader.



Looking at my watch I saw that it was approaching 1pm - lunchtime! Although there were plenty of options for food nearby, across the road was the green open space of Hyde Park and on the other side Knightsbridge - and the Harrods food hall! (Thanks again to the A-to-Z for pointing that one out!) It's a tradition for me to go into the food hall, find the bakery and buy a tasty pretzel filled with something equally delicious. Only today they didn't have any, so instead I picked up a cheese and bacon bread thing (there was a sign on it telling me what it actually was) which was supplemented by a salad picked up from a nearby Marks and Spencer food shop.



A ten minute walk later, I found myself outside the Natural History Museum. I have always regarded the museum as one of my favourite buildings in London. It is a wonderful piece of architecture externally. I ate my lunch outside before attempting to take some more photos and then decided to head inside for a bit to get out of the hot sun. Inside the main hall my jaw dropped. It has been so many years since I've been into the museum that I'd forgotten how beautiful it is inside as well as out.



Half an hour and many normal photos later, I emerged and made the short walk to the V&A museum. I didn't do too well obtaining photos of the main entrance owing to lots of traffic sitting in the way. Oh, and the sheer size of it - too big to fit into one shot. Instead, I went for a plod around South Kensington, stopping to by a bit of cherry cake before catching the tube to Baker Street - the only tube journey of the day.



From Baker Street I headed into Regent's Park where I thought I might spend some time relaxing and soaking up some of the afternoon sun. After topping up the factor 50 on my face (it burns easily and even factor 50 seems inadequate sometimes!) and eating my cherry cake, I decided I didn't want to sit still for too long and so headed across the park to Camden Town.



I've made this walk a few times before, so didn't need the A-to-Z to tell me where I needed to go. Within half an hour I was amidst the hustle and bustle of Camden High Street and shortly after I ducked into the relative calm of the Stables Market. This whole area has undergone huge changes in recent years and I can't decide if I like it or not. Sure, it's modern and certainly tourist friendly, but I quite liked the old rough and tumble, slightly ramshackle market.



I had heard that my favourite shop, Cyberdog, had recently relocated and had trouble finding it. Whilst searching, I wandered around the new areas (part of which was recently occupied by Cyberdog), taking it all in, nosing around at the alternative clothing stalls and constantly being offered samples of food from the Asian food stalls. I eventually found Cyberdog and realised I'd walked straight past it twice! The new shop doesn't have the same character as the old one, but still they managed to make me part with cash in a way that no other shop can.



By now it was 4:30pm and I was feeling a little peckish (I only ate the salad for lunch and didn't feel like eating the bread thing at that moment). On previous visits to Camden, I have eaten at a particular food stall and always enjoyed the food. Today would be no different. Some rice, fried chicken bits and pork with mushrooms in what I think was oyster sauce in a single small takeaway style dish - food on the go which I happily ate in their little seating area. Well, I had nowhere else to go at that moment in time.



After some more general wanderings through the markets, I popped into the World's End pub for a pint. It's another of those things you just have to do. Well, I do anyway. From there, I made the surprisingly short walk back to Kings Cross and the hotel. The evening was spent relaxing (I'd somehow hurt my leg during the day) and going through all the photos taken, deciding if the project was still working.



It turns out that it's not working at all, mainly due to the wonderful weather. The project relies on there being at least some clouds in the sky to give weight to the stormy effect I am trying to achieve. In a bid to salvage it, the project is no longer 'Dark London', but more of a collection of interesting images of London landmarks. It works for me!
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London, United Kingdom

"Jesus H. Christ! What the hell are you doing?!"
Well, isn't that what any sane human body is screaming at 3am when it is forced out of bed? I had to be up this early in order to travel to Edinburgh airport. My flight wasn't due to depart until 7am, but I had to get up town in order to catch the airport bus. I'd checked bus timetables the night before and the earliest buses weren't due until after 5am. And that was just to get me up town. The airport bus would add an additional thirty minutes to the journey as well.

After my normal series of morning bathroom activities, I dressed and made sure I had everything I wanted to take with me. I also made sure I had all the paperwork for my flight and hotel bookings. At this point I discovered that my passport expired on this day. Oops. Luckily my return journey is to be made by train, so no problems there. I hoped.

I opted to get a taxi into town in order to catch the first airport bus of the day. Arriving at the bus stop at 4am, I had to wait twenty minutes for this bus. Bugger. My body nudged me. "That's twenty minutes sleep you've cost me," it seemed to say.

Once at the airport, I checked in and headed to the departure lounge. I was a bit early. Even Costa hadn't opened up yet so no chance of a much needed caffeine shot. I sat and waited in their seating area for ten minutes before finally being able to indulge in a nice big coffee and a BLT sandwich.

After a bit of a wander around the departure lounge, I headed for gate 18 - gateway to my flight and my trip to London.

All was quiet until the moment they opened the gate for boarding when, from nowhere, a vast crowd of people appeared. My fellow passengers. All of them keen on being the first on the plane. Keen not to be left behind perhaps. Since I was sitting at the back of the plane anyway, I saw no reason to rush and waited patiently till the queue passed where I sat.

On board the aeroplane, I took my seat and made myself comfortable. The pilot announced that there was fog in London, but that we had been allocated a take off slot at around 8:30am. This caused some confusion among the passengers who, like me, presumably thought he's just got his hours wrong. Alas no. We were to wait on the plane for about an hour before we took off.

One of the stewards cleared things up a little. What the pilot had meant to say was this: because of fog at Heathrow, they had advised Edinburgh air traffic control that we should not take off until around 8:30am to avoid being placed in a queue over Heathrow. By taking off later, we would slot into the pattern at our destination and land quickly. We later learned that this in fact saved three tonnes of fuel so, from an environmental point of view, no problem there.

That said, it did put me an hour behind schedule for the day. Not that I really had a schedule, but it was still an hour lost (my body was still cursing me...). We eventually took off at 8:15am and had a smooth journey and quick landing into Heathrow terminal five.

Uh oh. The dreaded terminal five. As I stood at baggage reclaim I began to wonder if I would ever see my possessions again but, as luck would have it, those teething troubles seem to have been ironed out and all bags were safely received. Well, mine was anyway!

And so to the tube. A week or so before I had topped up my Oyster card so that I could just hop on the tube and go about my business. At the time, I selected Heathrow terminals 123 as my collection point for the top up. Terminal five wasn't listed and, to be honest, I hadn't realised I would be landing there.
It turned out that, by using my Oyster card at the terminal five station, my £50 top up was negated. I have still to find out what happened to my money. In the meantime, much arse.

Still, there wasn't much I could do about it there and then, so I headed to Kings Cross and my lodgings for the duration of my stay - the Wardonia Hotel.

I arrived at 11am, too early to check in. After a quick freshen up in the communal bathroom, I headed back out toward Heathrow to meet my best friend Mike.

Although we had arranged to meet up today, we hadn't actually planned to do anything. After a much needed cup of tea at his house, we headed to Kingston-upon-Thames. Passing through my old home town of Ashford, it was amazing just how much had changed in the eight years since I moved to Edinburgh. At the same time, there was still much that was just the same, like the newsagent that I used to frequent as a small boy to buy sweets.

Once in Kingston, we wandered around for about an hour but didn't really do anything. Kingston hasn't actually changed that much, save for a few shops now closed down, probably due to the recession.

We were both feeling pretty hungry, so a plan was hatched to head into Staines (another of my old stomping grounds) to try out a Chinese buffet - Shanghai - that Mike had been told about. Suffice to say the food was ace, but then we did arrive at opening time so everything was as fresh as could be. And it was all washed down with a bottle of my favourite Tsingtao beer.

After that, we embarked on a short pub crawl along the vastly improved (from when I last saw it) high street, now completely pedestrianised. Even the Elmsleigh Centre has undergone a major facelift and, although the shops inside are still a bit cruddy, the overall appearance is much better.

After a few beers in a few establishments, we headed back to Mike's so I could collect my bag before hopping back on the tube to Kings Cross once again.

Finally able to check in, I headed up to my room. I had booked a single room, since it's only me on this journey (my other half, Laura, is currently in Australia), but have been allocated a twin room, thus affording my more space than I was expecting.

The Wardonia is a budget hotel. 'No frills' at its least frilly. The hotel website offers images of room layouts to illustrate that a single room offers enough space to move around in, but perhaps not to swing a cat. Whilst this won't pose a problem for me (I have no cats in my luggage), having read reviews on Trip Advisor it became clear that some people expect far too much for their money. That said, being in a twin room means that, should I find a stray cat in need of a good swinging, I can do that in my room.

As a quick review, the staff so far have been polite and friendly and who can ask for more than that? The room is clean, the beds are comfy (I've tried both!) and the wetroom (something not expected in a budget hotel) looks like it will serve all bathroom requirements adequately.

The hotel is also but a very short walk from Kings Cross-St. Pancras stations, perfect for my planned to-ings and fro-ings over the next few days.

So, at 11:30pm, having had a sluggish start but an enjoyable end to the day, I sign off - looking forward to a good sleep and, with any luck, another fine sunny day tomorrow.
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London, United Kingdom

I had planned to rise today at 7am. I actually got up at 8am - that extra hour was much needed! I was ready to leave just after 9am and headed out toward Aldgate East station and Christ Church, Spitalfields - the first port of call for my latest photo project, 'Dark London'.

This project is similar to one I did in Edinburgh, where I had used a homemade filter consisting of four layers of 0.6ND lighting gel. The idea being that, by using the filter, a longer exposure is possible and the end result is a soft focussed 'stormy' effect. It worked quite well in Edinburgh and the hope was the same would be true in London. Because exposure times vary from half a second to several seconds, keeping the camera still is important. Sadly, due to space constraints, I was unable to being my tripod with me and had to opt for my monopod instead. That was handicap number one. The second would come in the form of the weather - bright sunshine with clear skies. This caused a problem because it meant there was a lot of light around and nothing in the sky to work with the subject in creating the desired effect. But little things like that weren't going to stop me!

After gathering a few shots (I was unable to check them properly because viewing the LCD on the camera is hopeless in bright light), I headed along the road to the Swiss Re Tower, affectionately known as the Gherkin. This building now dominates many views of the city, in the same way the BT tower does further north.

My A-to-Z showed a clear enough route to the tower, but I like to stray away from direct routes and so meandered in and out of side streets. As I turned one corner, close to the tower, I was presented with a brilliant angle from which to attempt to take a photo. Despite the sun glinting off the building, the results looked OK from there, but it's a big building and many more angles from which to take a photo!

I headed up to the building's plaza area and sat for a while sorting myself out, making notes and drinking the first cup of coffee of the day. From my seat, I snapped a few more pictures. This aroused the curiosity of a security guard who enquired as to whether the photos were for personal use. Naturally they are - who'd pay for my pictures?! At this point I learned that there are two areas where it is permitted to take photos of the tower. When using my large camera (which I was for the project), I had to be off the plaza completely. However, when using my smaller camera (for those spur of the moment snaps), I was allowed on the plaza but only up to a thin metal line running around the base of the tower. Beyond that point, no photography. I didn't have the heart to tell him that my little camera has a 10x optical zoom so such boundaries are a bit pointless. But he was very polite while speaking to me so it seemed churlish to disobey these rules.

Snapshots taken, I crossed the road to the Lloyds building. I like this building because of its apparent 'inside out' appearance. There were no security folk around this time, so progress was unhampered although finding good angles was tricky.
More general amblings led me to the Bank of England, an impromptu stop but one I though was topical, what with the project being called Dark London and the current economic problems, etc. Well, I thought it was funny.

A short stroll along Cheapside brought me out at St Paul's Cathedral. I managed a few different angles here, despite it being lunchtime and the area being mobbed with tourists and workers on their various breaks. And a short hop down the road (although I walked as hopping would have looked silly) is the Millennium Bridge and Tate Modern. I have taken many photos of the bridge before, but unfortunately it didn't work well for this project - at least not without a tripod. This would prove to be the first of a few disappointments of the day, but despite the setback I ploughed on.

The next disappointment came inside Tate Modern. In the main turbine hall (which is where I planned to get a few images) a recent installation was being removed. Add to that some external repair works to the big chimney and the hall didn't look as good as I wanted it to. I got what I could and decided it was time for some lunch.

I somehow managed to take a wrong turn and ended up in a quiet area north of Southwark Bridge. But a few more turns later and I came across Borough Market and a plethora of fruit, veg and other lunch type things. I had a wander round but ended up settling for two plums and two Fiji apples which I tucked into as I head back to the Thames Path and on toward Tower Bridge.

Tower Bridge looked great in the bright noonday sun, but not so good on the darkened images I was trying to capture. But there were plenty of angles to choose from, and I did get something I like eventually. The same couldn't be said for the Tower of London, which was unwilling to give up a nice exterior shot that wasn't populated with scores of tourists. I abandoned it and instead headed along the opposite riverbank toward the London Eye.

After a brief rest to apply more factor 50 sun lotion to my face, I began grabbing shots of this eye catching contraption. But almost as soon as I started I was approached by the second security person of the day. He informed me that I was not allowed to use my monopod in the vicinity of the Eye as it presents a trip hazard. Two points to make on this: first, not using the monopod means the camera isn't being kept steady during the exposures. This leads to a blurred image instead of just a soft focussed one. That's not what I wanted. Second, I can understand a tripod being a trip hazard. Once the legs are spread, they often take up more room than the photographer using it and it is easy to understand how a dozy tourist might walk into it. But a monopod? Fully extended, it stands in front of me and I'm much fatter than it is! For someone to trip on it would mean that they have walked into me. And if that happened, the tourist should probably never leave the house again as they are clearly too stupid to be allowed out in public.

Despite this setback, I persevered once more and found ways to use the monopod in shorter modes to collect a mixed bag of images. Frustrated, I crossed Westminster Bridge and got a couple of shots of the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben before strolling along Victoria Embankment and getting more images of the Eye from across the Thames - with monopod fully extended!

Arriving at Embankment underground station, I was about to hop on a train to Covent Garden when I spotted a sign for Charing Cross station - an actual station sign, not a signpost showing me the way. From Charing Cross, I turned left and paid a quick visit to Trafalgar Square. Again, the area was flooded with tourists which made getting a decent image nigh on impossible, but I managed a few shots of the National Gallery and Nelson's Column before heading up the Strand to Covent Garden.

Once in Covent Garden, there weren't quite as many opportunities for photos as I'd hoped. At this point, weary from a day of wandering around London in the sun, I decided it was time for dinner. My meal of choice was to be found in Wagamama and the Japanese food served within was very tasty indeed.

Fully satisfied and feeling tired, I headed back to the hotel for a much needed shower and the first chance to see clearly the fruits of my labours.

Verdict: a mixed bag of results, but I still have three more days to try again!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1206827640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1206827640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1206827640/tpod.html Sun, 30 Mar 2008 15:48:27 -0400 A Very Chinese Adventure 2007

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Beijing, China

Over the last few days, behind the scenes, we have been trying to arrange a trip to the Great Wall. We already know that Badaling, although convenient for a visit to other attractions on the same day, is essentially a tourist hell spot.

A friend back home, Andy, had told me good things about the wall at Mutianyu, but a travel guide staying at Huntongren with us tried to convince us that the section at Simitai was the best place to experience the real wall.

As is happened, later that day I saw photos of the wall at Simitai and, whilst it looks like it would have been a good place to trek a section of the wall, it represents the wall as it is now, not as it was. That's not to say that Badaling and Mutianyu are true representations either, but the refurbishments made to each location give visitors a sense of how the wall used to be. Except maybe for the 3D tourist trap cinema thing at Badaling. I bet the sentries in China's past would have loved watching Jaws 3-D when not on duty!

Our friend Xiaojing has arranged for someone to escort us for the day. We need to be back by 6pm as Yang Zi is planning to cook dumplings for us. To that end, we compromise and opt for Badaling for sheer ease. We also plan to visit the Summer Palace too, so Badaling is indeed the most convenient option.

Or so we think. When we meet our escort, Rachel, she informs us that the road to Badaling has a series of roadworks which are causing delays. It will be quicker for us to reach Mutianyu. Andy will be so happy... (in joke - just for me and Andy).

The Great Wall - Mutianyu

Arriving at Mutianyu (pronounced moo-tyen-yoo, I think) we opt to take the cable car up the hill. It looks like a very long walk otherwise and time is not our friend today. The ticket checking chap checks our tickets, then accidentally drops them. This is not a good thing to do in the windy conditions up here, but the tickets are saved thanks to some deft footwork.

Once on the wall, we turn to the right and head down hill. Naturally, we don't relaise how steep some of the sections are and will no doubt regret this decision on the way back.
Despite the number of visitors to this part of the wall, we manage to get lots of photos without a single tourist in sight. This is through a combination of patience, good fortune and the need to rest after scrabbling up one of the aforementioned steep sections.

Given the aforementioned comments about the various sections of the wall and the (de-)merits, I am glad we have visited Mutianyu today. Sure, much of it has been reconstructed, but that's a good thing in a way. It is possible to get a sense of what life may have been like on the wall, and around it.

Given a whole day here, I would have liked to explore this whole section more, including the hike up hill (turning left where we turned right) and buying a beer from possibly the same person who overcharged Andy on his visit. Sadly, this is not to happen. Time is a cruel mistress on this day and we soon find ourselves heading back down in the cable car.

Once at the bottom, we fight our way past a line of market stalls and their traders who are keen to sell us cheap t-shirts and other souvenirs. I wonder what might happen if I refuse the first five stall holders only to buy something from the sixth (they're all selling the same stuff). And I stick to wondering instead of actually doing it in case I start a small riot or diplomatic incident.

We meet up with Rachel (who stayed in the car, reading) and she takes us for lunch at a nice place in Beijing. Afterwards, we head to the Summer Palace for a gentle stroll around the grounds.

The Summer Palace

We are dropped off at the East Gate and Rachel says she will meet us at the larger of the North Gates. Meandering around the palace, many of the buildings are similar in design to those in the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven. From that perspective there isn't much to be gained (for me at least). However, the setting and surroundings are beautiful and, without stopping to take a photo every few paces, I readily soak it all in. Sadly, as we are about to start climbing 'Longevity Hill', I decide I need to pee first. The search for a nearby toilet costs valuable time. We never get to climb the hill.

Somehow, we manage to stray off the beaten path (denoted by a lack of tourists) and get a little lost (the sign below might help you to understand why). The Summer Palace is huge (726 acres, much of which is actually water), and the map on the ticket isn't the most helpful. Still, we manage to find our way again and arrive at a bridge, over which lies the entrance to a lakeside shopping street. Most of the shops sell the usual variety of tourist stuff and it costs ten yuan to get down to it, so we decide not to bother. A short distance away is the larger of the two North Gates, so we exit and rejoin Rachel, who delivers us safely back to the hutong.

Dumplings

We arrive back a little early, so take the opportunity to take a stroll and do some shopping in the hutong. When we return to Hutongren, Yang Zi has indeed been busy preparing copious amounts of dumplings that will be our dinner, as well as that of Zhang Han and Yang Zi's other friends helping her out for the day.

While we eat, Zhang Han teaches us a little dining etiquette, concerning the resting of chopsticks at various points during a meal. A rough guide is shown in the diagram here (click to enlarge).

The dumplings keep coming thick and fast, faster than we're managing to eat them. Supply eventually outstrips demand, although it should be noted demand was high - they are the best dumplings I've ever eaten. Still, stuffed full of food once again, everyone retires to bed for a good night's kip.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193799600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193799600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193799600/tpod.html Sat, 29 Mar 2008 08:11:27 -0400 A Very Chinese Adventure 2007

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Beijing, China

This being a holiday, we rise late since that is what holidays are for.
OK, I tell a lie...

Laura gets up at 5:45am, showers and sorts herself out. I follow suit half an hour later, stumbling blindly around like the great oaf that I am until I am ready.
We step out into the fresh morning air and head for the metro, bound for the Temple of Heaven.

Temple of Heaven

This is a fascinating place, and not just for the temple and its constituent elements. The main reason for our early start is to beat the tourist rush and witness the local populace going about their morning rituals relatively undisturbed by hoards of gawking Yanks.
These rituals vary from Tai Chi (with or without swords) to working out on the communal gym equipment (think children's play area in a park, but for adults and not vandalised!).

Some folk gather to play Mah Jong, or just sit and chat. Part way along a covered promenade, a group of musicians play to a growing and appreciative crowd. Elsewhere, gentlemen practice their calligraphy using large sponge-brushes and water, painting Chinese characters onto the square paving stones. All in all, it's a great sight to see and something that I only wish could be observed closer to home. (I suspect there would be fewer social problems if this sort of thing happened in our own parks)

With the number of tourists growing rapidly, we make a break for the temple itself. Despite resembling other temples (in terms of décor), the Temple of Heaven is a grand affair indeed (although not a patch on the Forbidden City - despite covering a larger area). At one doorway, while trying to photograph the doors themselves, Laura is accosted by a group of Chinese students keen to have their photo taken with her - something of a theme on this leg of our journey. I am even roped in to take a photo or two of the group.
From this point, we are left to explore the temple in relative peace, investigating the various areas that were used for several rituals held within the temple in a previous era.

Walking along the Vermillion Steps Bridge, we hear a choir belting out a rousing tune. A number of other visitors have heard this too and we spy a small group of people gathering along the edge of the bridge trying to get a glimpse of the choir through the cypress trees.

Having traversed the temple from north to south, it is time to move on to another area of the city and more sightseeing...

Drum and Bell Towers

The towers stand tall and proud in the Dongcheng district, surrounded by hutongs. Between them, a sea of rickshaw drivers touting for business from tourists. They offer to take us on a whirlwind tour of the local hutong and it is clear that many tourists (seemingly from larger coach parties) are taking them up on their offer. But we don't. We fully plan to explore this area of hutong on foot, taking lots of time about it. It's a pleasant day and we're in no hurry, so why not?

After buying our tickets for the Drum Tower, we follow signs for the entrance and gaze in awe (or perhaps fear) and the steepest stairway we have ever seen. Fortunately, there is a handrail and we drag ourselves up to the top and emerge into the drum room.

On display are drums of various sizes (well, what were you expecting?) and in various states of repair. All around the room is a balcony offering views over this part of the city. Sadly, the bright sun bounces off the dust (or pollution) in the air, thus reducing visibility but it is still possible to get a sense of the vastness of Beijing as a city, and of how flat it is. Sadly, we time our visit badly and are not treated to a demonstration of the drums being used for announcing the time to the local population.

We descend the stairs, cross the yard (observing unoccupied rickshaw drivers engaged in a game of badminton to pass the time) and stare at a second steep flight of steps standing between us and the upper levels of the Bell Tower.

The main attraction here is the large bell hung in the centre of the tower (also used to announce time) and a truly magnificent beast it is too. Sadly, my camera chooses this moment to act up so I am bereft of a good photograph to place here to illustrate. :(
Again, there is a balcony offering slightly different views but not much else besides. Still, both flights of stairs have provided some good exercise for the day!

Dongcheng Hutong

Whether for the benefit of residents or the expected tourism generated by the Olympics next year, this area of hutong is receiving a facelift. Whilst it is obvious that new amenities are being installed, I can't help but feel the facelift is mainly for the benfit of the tourists. The shabby exteriors of the alleyways are making way for clean, grey brick frontages, all very uniform and tidy. I can see why the local authorities might be doing this, but for me it feels a little sad to see this diverse community 'masked' in such a way.

Still, a walk through this area is still very pleasant and it is fun observing the many different characters that make up this community. And the upgrades and improvement do provide a source of amusement, with the work being carried out with all the finesse of Nick Knowles and his DIY SOS team (it's a BBC TV show, if you missed the reference). On every other corner, men can be found tinkering with engines and other bit of machinery. Some folk gather to drink tea, smoke and chat. Young children play and storekeepers ply their wares. It is all very safe and that is the wonderful thing about being here.

Our meanderings lead us to a busy road opposite the hutong in which we are staying, so we take the opportunity to sort ourselves out before heading on to our next visit...

Yonghegong Lama Temple

The Yonghegong Lama Temple is one of the largest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in the world - situated in Beijing, a long way from the Tibet in the Himalayas. (For those of you who don't keep up with world politics, the Tibetans and Chinese don't exactly see eye to eye, so a flourishing temple devoting itself to Tibetan Buddhism could be seen as something of an anomaly in the Chinese capital)

The temple is beautifully decorated in a mixture of Chinese and Tibetan styles (with some Mongolian ideas thrown in for good measure). Much like many other temples, the layout consists of a precession of buildings, each devoted to different gods. At one end of the temple, in the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses, stand the Maitreya Buddha. Standing at 18m tall (with a further 8m buried in ground), it is the largest statue carve from a single piece of sandalwood and has been certified in the Guinness Book of Records as such (2003). Looking up to the heavens trying to observe this giant, I feel a little dizzy and so take a look around the rest of the pavilion, taking in the various artefacts to be seen here.

Some conservation work is taking place here, thus hindering an attempt to claim another geocache (a secondary reason for our visit), but this disappointment pales in comparison to the pleasure that our visit here has brought.

Shopping and tea

At 7pm, we have a shopping date with Zhang Han and Tony. Zhang Han has offered to take us to the local shops so that we may buy lots of cheap clothing, presents, souvenirs, etc. We arrive back to the hutong at 5pm, so decide to explore this area further before meeting up at our lodgings.

Along the main street, there are several shops selling guitars (seemingly the preferred musical instrument in this part of town) as well as a few restaurants and local stores.
Turning into the lane, the musical theme continues briefly with a few shops selling CDs produced by unsigned, underground artists (Chinese, of course) and western pop-culture influenced nick-knacks.
Further down, bars, restaurants and trendy coffee bars (fortunately not Starbucks) do their best to attract passing trade. Amid them, small shops selling clothes, books and other items - all aimed more at the traveller than the local inhabitant. I guess it is a sign of the changes taking place here, a transformation from local community to up and coming nightspot.

We stop for a bite to eat in a Korean restaurant. The two course meal sets us back a whopping sixty yuan (approx £4) and I struggle to eat any of it with the metal chopsticks provided (I soldier on though - no fork for me!).

After our meal, we head back to meet up with Zhang Han and Tony and embark on our shopping trip. Laura is looking for some shoes (Chinese people have smaller feet than westerners, so she should be able to find some in her size!), while Tony needs a thicker coat to cope with the cooler weather in Beijing. I'm not looking for anything in particular - this is a browsing trip for me!

Our first port of call is a shoe shop. Typically, the men in the group (both of us!) stand aside and let the girls go crazy looking at all the pretty shoes. It doesn't take long for Laura to spy some that she likes and before we know where we are, a sale has been made. With the first part of the mission a success, we head on to look at other shops, this time concentrating on Tony's quest.

In the UK, haggling has all but died out. Sure, it is possible to try your luck in a local market, but it rarely pays off. But in Beijing it appears to be encouraged - even in department stores! Having hunted around for a jacket, Tony finally finds one he likes so Zhang Han asks an assistant how much is costs. It is a little on the steep side so negotiations begin and a price is eventually agreed.
Having visited Hong Kong before, I know how haggling works in the markets (although I'm not very good at it), but I would never have dreamt of trying it on in a shop!

With both quests successfully completed, attention turns to me. I haven't seen anything that I really want to buy (I am also conscious that there is little room in my bag for my own stuff, let alone more) so we all head back to the hutong with a view to a nice pot of tea and a natter.

Back in the lane, Laura asks Zhang Han about a little shop she had seen previously. It turns out that Zhang Han knows the owner of the shop, which also happened to be a little tea shop. So this is where we take tea.

Inside, we discuss the various options on offer, from the modestly priced 'puer' tea (not a spelling mistake) to the more extravagant specimens that cost as much as a coffee in a western Starbucks (£2+ per pot). We plump for our favourite puer (pronounced 'pu-ar') and proceed to learn about tea making ceremonies, including the correct methods for men and women to hold the cup and why some folk have a collection of animals in their tea sets as well as the tea pot and cups. All in all, a very interesting evening although I'm damned if I can find anything online that explains it all better than I ever could here.

Whilst in the tea shop, I purchase a tea brick (block of tea dried and shaped - a tourist souvenir really and a source of tea if my Tetley ever runs out!) and so it comes to pass that, with hands full of shopping bags and bellies full of tea, we all head back to our hotel and off to bed.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193716800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193716800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193716800/tpod.html Mon, 24 Mar 2008 11:12:14 -0400 A Very Chinese Adventure 2007

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Beijing, China

When choosing accommodation for your holiday, what to do consider? Location? Price? Millions of TV channels at the touch of a button?

OK, so I consider price and location too. I don't care about TV - I haven't shelled out lots of money just to sit on my bum all day - that's why I don't do beach holidays.
My checklist is as follows:
1. Location - close to the areas I want to see, or at least within reasonable travel time on public transport
2. Price - not necessarily cheap, but value for money
3. Bed - the room should have one
4. Shower and a toilet - I prefer exclusive use of these facilities, but sharing can be considered (so long as I'm not kept waiting by someone who reads the paper cover to cover while taking a dump!)

And that's about it.




What I hadn't expected about staying at Hutongren was the friendly atmosphere. The staff (well, Yang Zi for she runs the place almost single handed) and her friends (Zhang Han et al) ply you with tea and greet you with a warm smile that is all friendship and not just professional courtesy.

And because of the atmosphere generated by those working and helping out, the guests spend time getting to know each other, idly chatting over a late evening pot of puer tea. As old visitors move on and new people arrive, the cycle starts again. I can't help but think that not only are we getting a great deal form our choice of accommodation, but Yang Zi and co are making new friends, as are we all.

Hutongren is highly recommended by me - and probably many others too.
:)
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193713200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193713200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193713200/tpod.html Sun, 09 Dec 2007 10:51:11 -0500 A Very Chinese Adventure 2007

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Beijing, China

Waking late - well, 10am - we sort ourselves out and grab the metro to Tian'anmen Square, the plan being to spend half the day exploring the Forbidden City before moving on to the Temple of Heaven.

Still satisfied from last night's mega feast, we skip breakfast and get straight down to business. That is avoiding hawkers and art students, of which there are many. It sounds harsh, and perhaps it is, but we are in Beijing to visit places like the Forbidden City, not to have a look at a student art exhibition. That said, that students we speak to are very friendly and polite. Perhaps we will endeavour to visit them later, but not just now.

Forbidden City


We arrive at the Forbidden City at noon, later than planned, and this is to have a significant impact on the rest of the day. Paying our 40 yuan entrance fee (less than £3), we enter the great city and all I can say is praise be for digital cameras! If either of us had a film camera still, this would already prove to be an expensive trip!


The Forbidden City is magnificent, covering 720,000sq. metres. Our explorations only appear to cover the main thoroughfare through the middle of the complex and a little to each side. Half a day here is clearly not going to be long enough! Unfortuantely, some of the buildings are being renovated. Well, it is unfortunate as it prevents us from seeing them, but it is also fortunate as it means they are being well looked after.


Wandering around, snapping things and revelling in the sheer enormity of the place, we falt to notice closing time drawing up on us. At this point, I remember that a geocache is located nearby and the race is on to find it before we are removed from the City. Firing up the GPS, we wait for what seems like an eternity before our current location is discovered. We are looking for a large glass case with something in it (we have to find out what that something is) and head in the general direction of its coordinates. Sadly, time gets the better of us and we are asked to make our way to the main entrance.


At this point, we join the crowds leaving the City just in time to witness what appears to be a parade of soldiers. We follow them, as does most of the crowd, out of the main gate. The soldiers cross the road on to Tian'anmen Square while we stand with the locals and other visitors. Here, we witness the ceremonial lowering of the Chinese flag. As a tourist spectacle, it is a bit of pomp and fun. As a means of getting visitors out of the City, it is first class!



Leisurely evening


With nothing planned for the evening, we head back to the hutong and set about planning when we might be able to squeeze a visit to the Temple of Heaven into our schedule. We discover that trying to do both in one day is futile - others have tried and failed too!
Looking at a map of the Forbidden City, two things become clear:
1. we only covered a tiny fraction of the City
2. we were still a long way away from the likely location of the glass case
Nevermind - there's always our next visit! (Oh yes, I'll be coming back to Beijing again!)


We think about heading up the road for some dinner but are sidetracked by YangZi, her English speaking friend ZhangHan and an English traveller called Tony. We fall into conversation with them and share tales of the day. We also hear of Tony's travels across China. A man in, I guess, his late fifties-early sixties, he is taking eight weeks to thoroughly explore this vast land. He had hoped to be travelling with friends, but none of them would go with him. They don't know what they're missing out on!

Tony's journey is a more detailed reversal of ours. We are heading from Beijing, via Shanghai to Hong Kong. Tony started in Hong Kong, visited Shanghai at some point, lots of other places too (including Xian - home of the Terracotta Army - which, sadly, we are not able to visit this time around) and is finishing in Beijing. He will arrive home in the UK just two days before us and will no doubt have a fine story to tell. :)

The hours pass, conversation and tea both flow freely and any thoughts of grabbing food evaporate like the water boiling on the nearby stove. We end the day having eaten nothing and surviving on last night's meal. I wonder to myself if we can arrange a massive blow out every other night. This would serve two purposes:
1. less time spent looking for places to eat, thus more time for actual visits
2. I might lose a little weight by generally eating less!

Everyone eventually retires and, almost as soon as my head hits the pillow, I slip into a deep sleep...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193626860/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193626860/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193626860/tpod.html Sun, 09 Dec 2007 09:42:21 -0500 A Very Chinese Adventure 2007

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Beijing, China

Our accommodation is hidden within the hutong district of Beijing, a few miles north of the Forbidden City. The hutong area is described in "Beijing For Fun" (Yue, Wang, Zhao; 2007) as follows:


The mazy alleyways around old courtyard houses in parts of Beijing are called 'hutongs' in Chinese and are well-loved for their unique charm and atmosphere. The shortest is just ten metres long, the narrowest only forty centimetres wide whilst other contain up to twenty twists and turns!
Their history dates back eight hundred years and they are regarded by many as a window into Beijing life. A stroll through the hutongs is sure to contain numerous sights and sounds, such as old folk playing chess or cards during the day, whilst at dawn and dusk groups often gather to practice taijiquan or to sing and dance to folk songs or Peking opera arias.

My first impression is "sweet!" The area is alive with locals, not too many tourists. Our lodgings are within a hutong house that is being renovated for travellers. We enter through the main door and into a covered courtyard. Ahead of us is a series of doors, one of which is to be our door for our stay. The room itself is cosy. To call it small would be a disservice. Cat-swinging is not something that could be done in the room, but since it is cruel to swing cats, that really isn't an issue.
The bed is situated up a small flight of stairs, essentially in the roof space of the room. It is made up of a thin mattress laid on the floor with a thick duvet and a couple of pillows. Basic, yet comfortable. I must simply remember not to sit up too quickly as headroom is a little, well, in short supply.
Down the stairs in the main 'living' area, furnished with two chairs separated by a table (a traditional layout in China). There is also a small desk area in the alcove under the stairs. The bathroom is to the rear and is, thankfully, western. We had been told that we may have a room with a Chinese style toilet, but it appears that the renovations have extended as far as providing a toilet that the average westerner will be comfortable using!

I should explain for those who don't know. A Chinese toilet is, essentially, a pan (like a shower tray) set into the floor. On each side are places to put your feet. My assumption is that one would squat to poo, though having not experienced it, I find it hard to work out how you don't end up with poo on your clothes.
As an aside, if you're ever in a public toilet in China that has western bowls fitted, look out for footprints on the toilet seat. This is a sign that a Chinese person has used the toilet but is conditioned to using the pan version and is used to squatting!

Xiaojing leaves us to freshen up. I have a poo in the traditional western way but make the mistake of flushing my toilet paper away. Apparently, the paper is meant to be placed in the bin but I didn't know this and, as a result, block the toilet. Ooops!

Once we are freshened up, Laura and I sit in the courtyard and take in the friendly atmosphere of our lodgings. The place is run almost singelhandedly by a young lady called YangZi. She flits around, taking care of everything and always offers a friendly smile. She has some friends who pop by to help out every now and then and they are all very friendly towards us too. I think that this is going to be a very nice place to stay.

Motoring madness!

A short while later, Xiaojing rejoins us having purchased our train tickets to Shanghai for us.
Our introduction to Beijing will consist of the following:
1. learning how to use the taxis in the city
2. learning how to navigate the metro system
3. learning how to cross the road without getting killed

I jest not. In the short time we have been in Beijing, I have observed the following:
1. all drivers are nutters
2. all cyclists are nutters
3. the green cross code does not exist - crossing the road is a matter of life and death

In the USA, I believe it is OK to turn right on a red light, but I'm not sure if that works for a pedstrian crossing.
In Beijing, it doesn't matter. Road users can turn right on a red light irrespective of whether the predestrian crossing is green or not. To that end, crossing the road involves keeping an eye out in every conceivable direction, running quickly, stopping suddenly and a lot of childish laughter at the silliness of it all!

It doesn't take us long to master this bit although I fear I will soon tire of it too!

Taxis are easy if you can get the driver to understand where you wish to go. A bi-lingual map, with Chinese characters, is invaluable here if your grasp of pronounciation is as bad as mine is. Another useful tip is, if you're a nervous passenger, sit in the back seat and close your eyes. The roads look scary enough as a pedestrian. As a passenger in the front seat of a taxi, they are positively frightening!
We are told that using a taxi can be expensive and we are shocked to see that our journey to the metro station costs 12 yuan. At the present exchange rate, this is around 80p. Ouch!

I shouldn't mock, and indeed I don't. 80p to a native Chinese who has never experienced the outsie world is a lot of money. But still - 80p!
The metro is even cheaper, costing 2 yuan for any journey. Pennies! To travel on a clean, well run transport system! Where did the UK go so wrong?!

Tian'anmen Square and more


At Tian'anmen Square, Xiaojing shows us the Zhengyangmen (Zhengyang Gate), one of the old city gates and the Arrow Tower across the road. No sooner has she done this than Laura is off taking about a billion photos, as is her way. From the gate, we walk past the Great Hall of the People, Mao's Memorial and the Monument to the People's Heroes. It is a bright, clear day, a little chilly in the breeze but otherwise warm. At least, it is for us. Being used to the much warmer summers, today is a cold one for Xiaojing!


At the north end of the square, we look accross the road toward the Forbidden City and the imposing image of Mao TseTung (or Mao ZeDong if you prefer) hanging over the main entrance. We need to cross the road, so use the subway to do so. At each side of the subway stands a table and a few guards. It seems that people are randomly searched here. This will explain why we've been told to carry our passports with us at all times. This is our first experience of the stereotypically Chinese Communist way, although on this occasion we are not stopped even though the guards stare at us.

From the other side of the subway, we walk past the front of the Forbidden City, stopping briefly to take more photos and also to have our photo taken with some Chinese folk. With China being such a huge country, and internal travel only recently becoming something that ordinary folk can do, many people have not seen a westerner before. To them, we are a novelty, something to tell the folks back home about and now some of them have pictures to prove it!

We head to the metro station and along to the Military Museum stop. This is not our intended destination though, for across the road is a giant sundial built to commemorate the millenium. We elect not to go inside the park and all the way up the steps to the sundial, but instead walk around the perimeter. This was more a consideration of time rather than lack of interest in the feature.

After this, we headd back to the hotel, collected some bits and pieces and hailed a taxi to the home of Xiaojing's parents.

A veritable feast!

Xiaojing's parents live in what I can best describe as a gated community. The entrance has its own security guard who waves us through. Once inside, the place looks like a western urban development, leafy and clean. The houses and apartment blocks are huge, though not overwhelmingly tall as in other areas of the city.

Heading up a flight of steps and to the front door, we are greeted warmly by Xiaojing's parents. Xiaojing gives us a tour of the house, set on three levels. If you have ever seen the MTV show 'Cribs', this is the sort of place you might see featured. but instead of flashy celebrities showing off what they bought with huge amounts of cash for doing, well, nothing of any worth, this home is owned by hard working people enjoying the fruits of their labours.

As well as Xiaojing's parents, her sister and brother-in-law are also here along with their child, Xiaojing's niece. She has a cheeky look in her eye and a big, kiddie smile. For as much as I normally dislike being around children, this little girl is an amusing creature and I actually quite enjoy being in her company!

We sit down to eat, before us a veritable smorgasbord of local delicacies - minced pork balls covered in rice; spicy prawns; a salad made up of potato, pear and banana; red bean spring rolls and so much more.
We pick away, trying everything out and, despite the language barrier, conversation flows smoothly form topic to topic. At one point, I have a little trouble grabbing something with my chopsticks. Xiaojing's father heads into the kitchen to get me a fork, but I am determined not to be beaten and my perseverance pays off! The fork remains next to my plate, unused for the rest of the evening.

Once we have eaten our fill, we head to the lounge where Xiaojing's mum breaks into a large fruit, similar to a grapefruit but not as bitter. After hacking her way in and peeling the thick skin away, she hands a piece of the fruit to Laura and myself and we casually pick bits off and eat them. Well, I eat most of mine but a few of the bits pop out of my hand and onto the floor - tricky little buggers!

After more chat and some taking of photos, itis time to leave. Laura and I are driven to the metro station and embark on our first solo journey back to our lodgings. At the ticket office, I say "liang jia", which produces a smile from the young lady in the booth. OK, so perhaps my pronounciation is a little off, or maybe she detects a hint of nervousness in my voice (in case I get the tones completely wrong and inadvertantly insult her mother). Either way, she understands my request and issues two tickets.

At our destination, we decide to walk to the hotel. Xiaojing had told us it was a long way and that getting a taxi would be quicker, but in fact the hotel is only a ten minute walk from the station and, by walking, we get to see the area at night. At one point, we see two men, one of whom is clearly very drunk and upset about something. Could he have just split up with a girlfriend? Or perhaps lost her in a card game? Who knows. The odd thing is, it feels very safe walking around this area late at night. It isn't the tidiest area (although it is being given a facelift, possibly on account of the 2008 Olympics), but it is friendly and, as much as I hate to use the word, authentic.

Once in our room, we collapse on the bed, tired and stuffed full of good food. Jetlag is setting in now and we crash out...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193626800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193626800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/weirdism/china2007/1193626800/tpod.html Sat, 08 Dec 2007 07:54:11 -0500 A Very Chinese Adventure 2007

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Beijing, China

After an uneventful and seemingly neverending flight, we land at Beijing Airport. After landing, we taxi for miles to the stand, although this is nothing compared to the time taken to reach the stand at Schiphol airport.

During the flight, we received a number of forms that we have duly filled out. Unlike when entering the USA, the forms are not concerned with our terrorist leanings, but more with our health (do we have herpes, AIDS or a gammy leg?) and our finances (have we robbed a bank prior to travel and stuffed the money in our suitcase?). These forms will obviously need to be handed in at some point and an endless series of questions asked to corroborate our answers on the forms.

Once inside the terminal, my first impression is of how quiet it is. And by quiet, I mean silent. Iamgine Heathrow but with no one around. Beijing is quieter than that.

On our journey to baggage reclaim, we hand the first of our forms over - the health questionnaire. And that is it. We simply hand it over. The chap doesn't seem to be interested in whether my leg is oozing sticky yellow goo or not. He takes the form and waves us through. Oh well. I'm sure someone will be along to mop up the pus soon.

Next up - immigration. I hand my passport and the second form over to the chap in the booth. He looks at my passport, then at me, then at my passport, then at me.
Perhaps I should explain. My passport photo was taken eight years ago, when my hair was long and my face pale and thin. Since then, I have cut my hair short and put on a bit of weight. At first glance, I look nothing like the person staring out from the back page of my passport.
The gentleman seems to be satisfied that I am actually the same person and continues to look at my visa, entry form and whatever else he had to read. As I wait, I observe a series of buttons - smiley or frowny faces accompanied with the following descriptions:
very satisfied | satisfied | dissatisfied | very dissatisfied
I press the very satisfied button as I leave. The guy didn't say much, but that means he was rude. He was efficient, didn't keep me waiting and offered a little smile as I said good bye in my best Chinese. What more can you ask for?

During all this, the baggage handlers have retrieved everyone's luggage from the aeroplane, transported it to the conveyor belts and left it for us to fight over in the traditional manner.
Beijing airport is one of the easiest to get through in the world. We grab our bags and head straight through customs to the arrivals area where Xiaojing is waiting for us.

* * *

Xiaojing came to Edinburgh to study at Queen Margaret University in Edinburgh a few years ago, which is where Laura works. They met and have since become good friends. Laura looked after Xiaojing during her stay in Edinburgh and now Xiaojing has the opportunity to return the gesture.
I haven't kept up with my Chinese studies, so my knowledge of the language is not as good as it could have been. But this is OK as Xiaojing speak excellent English.

She has offered to escort us to our hotel, as well as giving us a tour of Tian'anmen Square later, before heading to her parents home for a traditional family meal. This sounds like a great first day, easing us into the way of things.

So, first stop: the hotel...
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