TravelStream™ news feed for member watchoutworld on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/watchoutworld en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 28 May 2009 06:29:56 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1238235900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1238235900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1238235900/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 06:29:56 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Lahore, Pakistan

Back in Lahore I went back to J's house for a few days, then went back for a few days to my starting point in Pakistan - the Regale Internet Inn.   On 30th March, while I was staying with J's family, the siege at the military camp in Lahore took place. It was a tense day because J was at the site with some journalists so his wife and I stayed by the phone and TV waiting for news. I texted mum and dad to let them know I was ok if they saw the news and I kept in touch with my friends across Pakistan.   I'm still amazed that there be such evil, cold blooded people in a country where the majority of people are so kind, friendly, welcoming and peaceful - more so that any other country I have visited. I just don't understand what a man has in his mind to do these things. I heard of other bad news from elsewhere in the country, it was a horrible and very sad day. When I ask I'm told that there are just a small number of people that are religious teachers brainwashing people from a young age to believe that if they blast they will go straight to Junnt (heaven). These few evil cheaters do a lot of damage to the Islamic image and affect so many lives with their actions. Those people in the army are usually there because they desperately need the pay for their families - when one person is killed it's devastating for the families, not just emotionally but financially. True Muslims say that if you kill one man, you kill the whole of humanity. If only the others listened to that. On the opposite side, Pakistanis are so sensitive and emotional - you see men holding hands as they ride their bicycles, stroking each others hair as they chat in the parks, singing and reciting poetry and offering their deepest feelings.  I spent more time with M, who visited some afternoons and S who was determined to show me as much as possible. With S I went by motorbike to his own village about 2 hours ride away and met his father, sister and other family members. We ate fresh strawberries grown in the and next door and had milk straight from the buffalo as I watched it being milked - it was still warm as we drank it! The only bad thing about this trip was the road - or lack of it - we came back white from the dust and S dropped the bike twice in the mud - with me on the back - I insisted in getting off at each dodgy bit after and on the journey back I clung on hardly daring to look as we went back on the dirt roads with a light that only worked when he applied the throttle.   On another of the days S took me and another lad to watch a Kabaddi match - a kind of team wrestling sort of game. It was great and despite a bit of rain, we were treated like royalty - given a seat of honor, garlands of flowers around our necks and chai and food after the match. We even had our photos taken with a local politician (leader of the PPN) so that it may appear in the newspaper.   I was also honored with a visit from A, who like MA, travelled all thee way from Peshawar just to say goodbye to me. He also brought many gifts of chitralli textiles and photos for me to remember him. We went for ice-cream and he accompanied us to the Kabaddi match although I really don't think it was his kind of thing and he hated the crowds of people that engulfed us as they tried to say hello and shake hands.   In my last few days S helped me with my visits to the visa office and post office - I had a big package to send back with my souvenirs, warm clothes and thick sleeping bag - hopefully I won't need them now as the weather is much warmer and should be like that for the rest of my travels.   It was sad to leave, but I was accompanied to the border by M and another friend who's a rickshaw driver. I felt quite apprehensive about leaving them and going back into India - but after my visits to the visa office I knew I was coming back - I'd already arranged another entry and another 3 months here when I leave India in June....I love this place.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1238148960/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1238148960/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1238148960/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 06:24:02 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Faisalabad, Pakistan

S wanted to show me the village life so we traveled with another of his friends to visit the home of someone else I'd met on my first visit AB (This name/letter thing is getting damn confusing to me so I don't know how you understand this!). It was a long journey by bus and jeep and we arrived at about 10.30pm. This didn't seem to be a problem though - it was the time of their annual festival and the party in the village was still going strong! At the house I was taken round to be introduced to the women who were all in bed but woken to say a dazed hello (yes I felt very guilty but they insisted) then I went with the men to join the festival.   They were delighted to show me the main attraction of the evening - 3 different area set aside for 'ladyboy' dancers! I was amused and surprised. Here in this village the men were going man for these dancers - some who'd had operations to change, some who simply 'padded' The guys sat around with jaws to the floor while other showered the 'ladies' with rupee notes. The men I was with put up some money so I'd get a special dance myself - I wasn't sure where to look or how to stop myself giggling. I quizzed them about it a little the next day and they said that the men were 'hungry' and really enjoyed it. That was clear! Saying that, no one stepped out of line and it was all very controlled and civilized - maybe because of the lack of alcohol in this culture. I couldn't quite imagine this happening in a village at home...   The next day we visited the festival again where the lady boys were replaced with qwalli singers and small fairground rides and games. I also got to meet AB's huge family here and was again humbled by the hospitality and gifts they gave to me. The ladies even helped me to look more Pakistani with bangles, earrings, eyeliner and lipstick!   The village itself was beautiful; the main crops are wheat, sugarcane and cotton.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237543860/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237543860/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237543860/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 06:16:07 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Lahore, Pakistan

The bus back to Lahore was expensive but I was told I should try the Daewoo buses so I did. It was exactly on time to leave and arrive (very unusual!) and was like catching an airplane with its security checks and 'in-flight' snacks and drinks. (But yes my knives were an issue again and I had to answer questions and assure them they were ok locked in my big bag in the luggage compartment). It was an overnight bus but I only managed a bit of sleep because a friendly man next to me kept me talking - explaining among other things the secret ways to choose the best fruit! To be honest I was also quite excited to meet up with my friends in Lahore again so maybe I wouldn't have slept much anyway.   I arrived at about 6.30am and after catching a rickshaw I found my friend J waiting for me at the hotel as we'd arranged. It was great to catch up - we covered everything that we'd been doing in the last couple of months, got some breakfast and then went to see his family. While I was there one of the neighbours came round to 'tidy me up' after my time in the northern area and threaded my eyebrows. I just had time to get back to the hotel for a quick shower when M arrived - he's got 5 days leave so we could explore more of Lahore together and it was great to see him again.   I'd seen most of the 'tourist' places on my first visit to Lahore so we spent the next few days just enjoying the city - escaping the people in the many parks and zoo, and finding different places for food and chai. There was a small fair in one of the parks we went to and I took an amused M on the first fairground ride in his life - I think he just thought they were for kids. I wore a mixture of local dress and western dress but M wore only western clothes and as we moved around the city, everyone thought he was a tourist too - we had fun with some of the conversations.    I was fortunate that through K in Gilgit, we also had a contact at the art college in Lahore. We met up with a sculpture student there who showed us around the college and the halls of residence (hostel), giving me a chance to speak to the students and see their work.   During this time we also met up with my 'brother', MA, who'd been my companion from Chitral to Peshawar. He traveled all the way from Peshawar to Lahore to say goodbye to me and give me some gifts - special sweets, face masks (for the pollution), notepad and bracelet.   When M returned to work, I took up J's offer to stay with his family for a few days, and it was nice to spend some time as part of the family.   I also met up with S, another friend I'd made on my first visit to Lahore.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237370640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237370640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237370640/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 06:10:34 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Abbotabad, Pakistan

After a few hours sleep after a late night, I woke early with the knock on the door for breakfast. I said thank you and goodbye to MA and met A, who whisked me straight off into a rickshaw and then bus to Abbotabad. He said he really wanted to show me some more of Pakistan before I left and this was a beautiful place.   To be honest, after all the travel the day before I was pretty tired and the last thing I wanted to do was to sit on another bus for 6 hours or so but it was A's treat and he really wanted me to enjoy it so I pulled myself together. Only one small incident on the way - for the first time ever a couple of police did a check on the way and asked to search my bag. I had in there two knives I'd brought in Dir (which is famous for them) and even though they were wrapped and taped in newspaper it took a while to convince them I was a tourist and that they were simply souvenirs. Apart from inconvenience of emptying my bag and the attitude of the officer, it was all ok in the end.    We met up with one of his friends there and together with his driver(!) they took me to an amazing hilltop area with views across the whole of Abbotabad. The area was very green with beautiful flowers and trees. Abbotabad had a very English feel to it with lots of gardens and British-era buildings but it was also the main military training areas in Pakistan and from the views you could see lines of young men exercising and working through their programs.   We stayed overnight in a very nice hotel that was 4 times the price of what I have been used to, and it was a treat to have a hot shower in a clean bathroom! The next day we met up with more of his friends and went up to the highest point in the area with beautiful views over Kashmir. Here there was still snow on the ground too. After a lovely day, and another lovely meal at his friend's house, I left that evening to get the bus to Lahore.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237283760/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237283760/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237283760/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 06:02:46 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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swat, Pakistan

A had made some enquires for me and we'd found an alternative way for me to travel to Peshawar were he was currently staying for work. It was a long, amazing and interesting journey. I'm writing this sometime after but I'll try and remember the outline of my route to give you an idea:   Chitral > Lowari pass  - Taxi from a lovely friend of A's, paid for by A Lowari pass - I'm not sure I can say how I got past this bit but it involved the help of some fantastic people I met there, about 5 hours and 2 jeeps. The snow was so deep here, at the road side the snow towered about twice the height of the lorries passing through! I also met a Chitrali guy, MA, and his son here, also bound for Peshawar so I'd spend the rest of my journey with them Lowari pass > Dir - a bit of a walk through a patch of deep snow then a jeep At Dir we got something to eat (MA insisted that as I was a guest he's pay), and waited a long time for a jeep that didn't leave until it was full and didn't fill up...so we detoured to visit MA's sister in Lower Dir Dir > Lower Dir - jeep Lower Dir > sisters house - lift from the sister husband. Here I met the family and was given food and drinks. Sisters house > Lower Dir lift from the sisters husband again Lower Dir > SWAT > Peshawar - a 2 shared taxis and 2 jeeps but I can't remember the names of the places we changed. At one point we thought we would have to spend the night somewhere because a curfew threatened to stop our journey. MA didn't speak English but I understood something about no vehicles allowed in the evening - I think it was something about foreigners. We decided to give it a try though and I put my scarf up and kept my head down to pass as a Pakistani through all the police checks. It worked! Peshawar > a hotel - taxi/rickshaw   The whole journey took about 19 hours and despite the fact I ate and drank well, and had somewhere to stay the night in Peshawar I only paid 300 rupees (about 3 pounds) because MA insisted on paying for everything! I passed through some amazing places and would love to spend more time in them but the security wasn't right to do that at the time, and my visa was also running out. As I mentioned I'm writing this sometime after the trip now and I'm very saddened to hear that the area I stopped to meet the family has been the centre of trouble with the Taliban. Some of the others that helped me on the journey are having terrible times at the moment where curfews and roadblocks are stopping supplies to the areas in which they live and work  I feel very fortunate to have been able to do the journey and to see what I did of the beautiful SWAT area.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236591120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236591120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236591120/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 05:55:08 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Rumbour, Pakistan

The next morning I packed up, went for lunch at the family's home and then met A's friends from the previous day - they were driving to the Kalash valleys and could give me a lift in their jeep - perfect! I was planning to go straight to the Rumbor valley but decided to accompany the guys to the Bumboret valley where we visited Shazeer Khan -the local alcohol maker. I tried some of the local spirit made from apricots (very strong but much nicer than the Hunza water), and sat in the kitchen with the women. They gave me a present of a Shu'mann - it's a woven piece that is used as a belt or as a strap for the baskets and is often given to 'honor an appreciated guest'. They also put a Shu'shut and Ku'pas on my head to try out. The Shu'shut is a band worn by women on their heads in their everyday dress, with a long tail that falls at the back. It is elaborately decorated with shells, beads, chain and embroidery. The Ku'pas, which is similarly decorated sits on the top and is usually finished off with some type of bobble. This part is used for special occasions now - such as festival time. Combined they were extremely heavy and hard to keep on. &nbsp; Holding onto the Shu'shut on my head I navigated the snow and ice to visit some of the neighbour's houses and had my first insight into the homes here. Before we left I felt a little obliged to buy the Shu'shut they offered me because of the hospitality, and we all got back into the jeep to continue to Rumbor. The driver had also been drinking but not too much and seemed more alert, anyway without him I was stranded! &nbsp; We drove in the dark and for quite some way - I shyly had to stop at the side of the road for the toilet because the journey seemed to go on for ever and the bumpy roads meant I couldn't hold it in! We arrived at Engineers Khan's guesthouse and I was welcomed into their home and they made fresh omelet and chai for me - which I was really grateful for. Again I was the first guest of the year for them but I felt confident because they'd been highly recommended by the Icelandic guys I'd got so much advice from. Their recommendation was deserved - they were a lovely family and my room rate included all my meals - we were in the middle of nowhere and even if I had wanted to (which I didn't) I couldn't have got food from anywhere else! The walnut bread was one of my favorite things and also a walnut/lentil paste that you ate with bread. I was also treated to some fantastic red wine that Engineer made himself - it was the first I'd had for ages and the only homemade red wine I'd tried. Rumbor wasn't as snowy as Bumboret but I was still glad of my big sleeping bag at night! During the days here I was really lucky that we had some beautiful sunshine that was lovely and warm despite the snow still clinging onto the hilltops. &nbsp; On my first day, Engineer took me to meet some of the neighbours and to the community hall and encouraged me to just take a walk around and meet people. Some people are shy, some a little guarded but others give a big smile and welcome and want so much to talk, but here our language stops us, they speak Kalash here so even my few words of Urdu I'd picked up were of no use. &nbsp; I suddenly felt a bit shy myself, I felt a bit like I was intruding and didn't want to be like a typical tourist looking through a camera lens. This area was very different to anywhere I'd seen, in fact I think I was a bit awe-struck by it all. I went for a walk down to the river and let my thoughts drift. Maybe it was the beauty of the remoteness of this place but my head was buzzing with thoughts so I got out my notebook and did some drawing and writing. Here are some thoughts from my diary. It's a bit rambling and philosophical but I just want to try and explain my feelings here... &nbsp; <i>Sitting on a rock, legs dangling, warm sun burning my cheeks and through my clothes, cool air from the freezing cold river sometimes touching my back, arms, hair to remind me of the snow covered mountains around. The water is the only sound, roaring, rippling, rushing and plopping over the rocky river bed. <i>&nbsp; <i>I closed my eyes for minutes, maybe an hour, thinking of nothing and everything. What am I doing here? Why have I come? What do I expect? About Pakistan, the people I'm meeting, home... how long can I wander and travel? Is it bad - should I feel guilty for taking all this time out? Will I go home and wake up from a dream? What have I learnt from this and how will I use it? <i>&nbsp; <i>Before travelling, I had no idea that a place like this existed. That sounds crazy, stupid, but this is a completely new world to me, a whole different way of life. It makes me think of my concept of a 'good life' and my purpose.&nbsp; What type of life do I like, want? For now, and for the future when one day I may have children. Life in England is good for work, learning, technology, "comforts", building on life, home, finances. I know when I go back I'll be absorbed back into that and sucked into the work-sleep-work cycle. Here is the extreme opposite. A very simple (but hard) life - nature, family, working for food, enjoying time with friends, wandering around without appointments, changing life depending on the season, surviving. I feel like I'm in a dream. I come with English money, thoughts and I'm suddenly dropped into this world. I am an outsider, an intruder, what do people really think of me? What do they imagine my life, my country to be like? <i>Here I am awestruck with the scenery, the nature, the people. The beautiful clothes that to me are like amazing costumes, but it truly is their reality. They don't dress for tourists, this is their life. I can only observe, it's hard to communicate so I can only guess. I can wander around, meet people, but is that selfish? What do I bring them? Do they see a dollar sign over my head? What harm do I do here? <i>&nbsp; <i>This is Pakistan, and I had no idea it existed. Everywhere here is so different. I almost need to go home for a reality check, a baseline. To remember what my life was. To work out what I want my future to be. What is my role? What are my reference points? My whole world has been turned upside down. &nbsp; After a day or so I found more courage to explore and see people. I walked around and found large groups of children and women, and I played a little with the children and spoke some time with a young girl, around 20, who spoke English. Later I got talking to another person and he took me to meet his family where they lit a new fire just to make chai for me. He then showed me the gathering place and community hall used during festival time, and introduced me to his father's family. &nbsp; I feel a little bit closer to the family and a little bit more relaxed as the days went on - and had 'breakthrough' moments with the children - Sarah, the young daughter who had seemed to dislike the fact that I was here today cracked a walnut for me, Nasir started playing a game I'd shown him the day before so that I'd join in, and as the quieter of the brothers I found him playing with my hair after dinner. Yasin, the older brother is as helpful as ever and accompanied me for part of my walk as soon as he'd finished school. Even Engineer's wife came with me for a walk today to show me a spring to get good clean water. Maybe it's also because I am dressing in the Kalash style too - yesterday Engineers wife gave me a dress and belt to wear and today I added the only pair of earring I had and a beaded necklace I'd brought in Gilgit. Everyone seems to love that fact that I am trying to fit in and many women spoke to me about my outfit - including the shu'shut I'd brought in Bumboret - I know now that it was a 'tourist' version - the shells are the bigger, cheaper type, the weave is too soft, and the 'tail' isn't as long as normal. I've learnt to recognise the better ones with fine decoration and chains woven in. Yesterday I couldn't keep it on my head but today I tied my hair back and it felt much easier. The young girls I'd befriended down the valley adjusted it to sit correctly - their style meant it should be slightly forward and to one side. &nbsp; By now Engineer's wife had also taught me some Kalash words and phrases and I loved the fact that everyone greets each other as 'brother' or 'sister' and an older lady will usually kiss you on your hand (which I returned). He's what I learnt, the spellings are my own interpretations of the sound: &nbsp; Sister - baba Brother - bhai Thanks - bo proosht Water - oik Drinking - pindi Eating - jimdi Bye - codaya How are you? proostie yiee Good night/ good sleep - proosht doodie Good morning - oboogeeyeh I'm very hungry - aboo a nora I'm very full - tat teer iram See you - gel pashiq Good - proost Milk tea - kia chai I like.... - a bookooshem... Hot water - peech oik I wish to wash my hands - a me bizarre nigom day What is your name - tie num kia My name is... - may num... My leg is ok - mia cour tarza (everyone always asked because of my limp!) Beautiful - shishoyyak Very beautiful - bosh she shore &nbsp; On one of the days I took a walk to the Afghan village, further along the valley. A track led to it and it took about 2 hours to get there. For the start of the walk 2 of the girls I'd met accompanied me, singing and clapping as we walked. Further up I met some schoolboys who walked along with me - they walk the distance to get to school every day. The snow increased as we went on, and the path was covered in very deep snow in some places, and we had to navigate rockslides at other places - I'd been told to keep my eyes on the rocks ahead to make sure there was no new movement. I soon learnt the word for snow (Zim) because everyone I met warned my there was lots of it further up - I think they were surprised I was going that way! &nbsp; At one point we had to cross a fast flowing stream - the boys jumped across the rocks quite easily but I'd already got wet in another stream a few days ago trying the same so I was more cautious this time! The boys threw in and piles up more rocks for me to cross but they were so wobbly I couldn't do it! I felt like such a chicken! Thankfully a man working nearby came past and took my hands to help me over, telling me to find him again when I came back. &nbsp; It was a beautiful walk, and when I reached the end, there I found the small village. A large gathering of men and children were outside when I arrived and it was as if the whole village stopped talking and looked around when I approached! &nbsp; As I walked past one of the houses, an older lady beckoned me inside and onto a stool next to the stove. Soon I was surrounded by about 30 curious women and children crowded onto the stools, floor and beds around the edge of the room. Unfortunately none of them spoke English, or Urdu, or Kalash - they had a different language here. They gave me some green tea and soon a man arrived that spoke some English so he helped to translate their questions. They wanted me to stay the night there but I explained that Engineer would be worried if I didn't return! The houses here were a different style to the Kalash homes and they contained a cradle hanging from the ceiling, made from wood or a woven basket - they were a lovely and reminded me of some very similar ones I'd seen in the ethnology museum in Russia. &nbsp; After I'd had the tea, the English speaking guy took me to his house to meet his family and to eat some lunch and we talked some more. Too soon it was time to go back - I had to make sure I got back over the track before it got dark! On the walk back I spoke to one of the guys carrying big loads of crops on his back. He was an older man but insisted that I took his walking stick to navigate the snow so I had to accept and then raced to keep up with him down the track! When I got to the stream I was alone again and the man I'd met before must have finished his work because it was late. Even the rocks that the boys had stacked up had been washed away! Some men the other side saw me trying to cross and signaled for me to wait, then they brought a plank of wood and laid it over the water for me to use - I was so grateful and humbled by all the help I was getting. When I got back, Engineer had his motorbike keys in his hand and was just about to come and look for me..oops! Here's the few words I learnt while I was there: &nbsp; Shimus - thank you Iousha&nbsp; - hello to man Iesha - hello to woman Zim - snow &nbsp; I spent a week in this beautiful little valley with no mobile signal, tvs, running water and just a single track road connecting it to Chitral. It had been an amazing time.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237196340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237196340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1237196340/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 05:41:07 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Chitral, Pakistan

I pulled myself away from Rumbour and caught one of the few jeeps back to Chitral town. I'd left a bag with A's family to look after and I'd promised them I'd come back so I went straight back to their home and was warmly welcomed. I spent the night there and spent the time helping the little girl with her English and being fed so much I thought I would burst! I took a walk around the bazaar and the little girl wanted to come too so we went together. She has blue eyes and blonde/mousy hair like mine so everyone thought it was amusing that people thought she was my daughter! I went to say hello to Farooq before I left and he gave me a handful of business cards to give out to other travellers and guesthouses. &nbsp; Back at the house I talked to the sisters about a shopping list - they weren't able to go to the bazaars themselves and there were some things that they couldn't get in Chitral so I'd offered to get some things and bring them back on my next visit to Pakistan. It felt like I'd known the family much longer and they seemed genuinely sad to see me go. H gave me another long string necklace of apricot kernels and A's mother gave me a precious gift of a traditional Chitrali cap. &nbsp; I was to leave the next day but not by plane this time...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236421740/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236421740/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236421740/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 05:37:15 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Chitral, Pakistan

I set off again in the morning, not feeling too hopeful with the flight - when I checked in again they told me there was a 50/50 chance. I saw the same faces from the previous day and we discussed the weather and chances as we watched the screens. This time we were in luck though - although I don't think anyone quite believed it until we were in the air but there were happy faces all around when we took off. I got a window seat and the views were incredible over the snow covered mountains. &nbsp; Arriving in Chitral I found I was the first person this year in Farooq's hotel and when I went to register with the police (compulsory in this area) I found I was only the third foreigner so far - the other 2 were working here. Farooq was friendly and knowledgeable so it was a nice place to start off. I went for a walk around the town which reminded me of Gilgit and Hunza, and found another friendly face. &nbsp; I'd seen A in Peshawar at the journalist's office but hadn't spoken much then. He recognised me straight away and invited me for lunch with his family. A used to be a cricketer and now as well as some coaching, does some work in politics - with Imran Khan's party. His family was lovely - his mum, dad, 3 sisters and the sister's children were lovely and lunch was extended to an invitation to stay at one of the sister's house - H. His mum also gave me a welcome gift of a long string of apricot kernels. H and her husband both worked in education and spoke English very well. At their home I became the local attraction with the children who all came over to see me! The housing was just for teachers so I also met some of the other professors in the nice little community. &nbsp; The next day A took me to the national park with a couple of his friends. A landslide blocked the road some way in which stopped us from seeing it all but it was great scenery and we watched deer on the mountainside and met some fishermen who gave us one of the fish they had just caught. We all went back to A's friend's warehouse where we had chai and his friend's chef came to cook the fish - just for me! I thought about dad as I tucked into this fish that must have been the freshest I'd ever had. &nbsp; Later I went to A's family's house for dinner, and helped one of the girls with her English work - she was very bright and it was a pleasure to work with her. They wanted me to stay the night again but I still had all my bags at the hotel and needed to sort a few things out so I went back to Farooqs.&nbsp; &nbsp;
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236075480/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236075480/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1236075480/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 05:27:56 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Islamabad, Pakistan

When I was in Peshawar I met a French girl, P, who lives 40% of the year in Islamabad and 60% of the time in Paris. She said if I came to Islamabad I could stay so I took her up on her kind offer for a few days. I needed to go there because I was to catch my first flight since the start. From all that I'd seen and heard I really wanted to go to The Kalash Valleys in the Chitral region and at this time of year I had been told that the roads were not passable because of the snow. The only way to get there was through Afghanistan or by air so reluctantly I came to explore the latter option from Islamabad. . &nbsp; Islamabad was unlike anywhere else I'd been in Pakistan. It was quite European in some ways with many people in western clothes, long, straight, wide, tree-lined roads, cleaner than other areas and for a city it was very green with some wooded areas, parks and trees...oh and lots of Marijuana plants growing wild! It is a huge contrast to Rawelpindi which is only a 20 minute drive away, and the differences are mainly because the city is so new - about 40 years old. Because of it's size and age,&nbsp; Islamabad is set out like a grid with letters and numbers assigned to different areas and walking around was very different - lots of big, expensive house belonging to foreign workers and diplomats, with security guards at the gates. Dotted around were areas with shops, banks and restaurants. When I went out to explore I found a little café in the park where I got scoops of ice-cream and a cappuccino and that seemed so strange to me to get in the middle of Pakistan. &nbsp; P was busy with work but that suited me to explore myself. On one of the days we took a walk up to Magella Hills together and I was amazed that just a few minutes walk from the offices, shops and houses there was such nature - this was a large wooded area with fantastic views from the top. Lots of people come up here to escape and there were drinks stalls and 'shoot the balloon with a gun' game that seems popular here. Later we went down to the zoo which was also nice for a walk. It's a nice area for families and kids and P said her younger daughter loved it here and even spent some time in the local school. &nbsp; In the evenings I got to meet P's friends who either dropped in for a drink or we went out for food. It was interesting to meet some 'modern' or 'westernised' locals and they were really nice guys with a very different lifestyle to the other parts of Pakistan that I'd visited. P loves it here - particularly for the people side- her friends just drop in to see her without making 'appointments' as it works in Europe. She likes the fact that things just happen - I've got to agree that side is really appealing and something I've got used to since I've been here - you don't always know who you'll see of where you'll end up but it's usually interesting! &nbsp; So onto my flight, I went to the PIA office and was told that there haven't been flights for around a week - I had been warned of this because it's a difficult route and the weather is notoriously bad over the high passes. Still I booked the next available flight and kept my fingers crossed. &nbsp; On the morning of the flight I left at the crack of dawn, made my way to the airport, checked in and waited anxiously at the gate with the other passengers. The flight time came and went and an announcement came over in Urdu to explain it had been cancelled again - I didn't need to understand the words - I just saw the disappointment in the faces of the people around me, Some of them had been waiting days to go home - coming to the airport each morning and going through the failed process each time. I wondered how long it would take me.&nbsp; I picked up my luggage, rebooked for the next day and went off to find some transport. I didn't want to impose on P any more and in fact Rawelpindi was a bit closer to the airport so I decided to go back there for a night.&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; Back in my usual hotel in Pindi I was happy to see the guy working there that I'd chatted to on the previous trips. We had a nice evening catching up over a couple of glasses of secret whiskey and I also bumped into another traveller I'd met here before that had since become attached to a local girl - I think he'll be staying a bit longer! &nbsp;
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1235987700/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1235987700/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/watchoutworld/4/1235987700/tpod.html Thu, 28 May 2009 05:12:59 -0400 Sue discovers the world

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Taxila, Pakistan

With V &amp; S I took a bus that they stopped in Taxila. In fact it dropped us on the highway some kilometres away. We asked in the roadside café and a couple of guys gave us a lift in their pickup closer to our destination where we connected with a Suzuki to Taxila itself. &nbsp; It was a small town and especially outside of tourist season there were few accommodation options - one stupidly expensive hotel and a youth hostel. We headed for the youth hostel, which seemed to be completely locked up and S had to bargain with the managers to let us stay - as they insisted we had to be members to stay there - even though they were almost completely empty. V &amp; I discussed the merits of trying the use the waterworks on the men, but S managed to get to agree that we would pay for membership and the night's accommodation - annoying but still far cheaper than the hotel. &nbsp; It was too late to start looking around so we had something to eat and then chatted to the one other guest in the hostel. He was an older Pakistani guy, in the area for work and he had a personal interest in palm reading. V and I offered our hands for inspection under his magnifying glass and he gave us strange individual readings that were flattering, but a bit weird not exactly convincing so we just smiled and thanked him before making our excuses for bed. &nbsp; In the morning we got an early start and set out to explore the area. The area is famous because of its Buddhist and Gandharan excavations dating from the 6th century BC to the 5th century AD, and as the place from which Buddhism spread to China. We started in the fantastic museum, seeing some household items that are still used in people's homes today, as well as Buddhas, jewelry, toys and objects found in the area. From here we stuck a deal with a rickshaw driver to take us around the main excavations - Bhit mound, Sirkap, the Jandial temple, Jaulian and Mohra Moradu. To get a bit of a discount V and I showed our student cards and S became our teacher! The sites were fascinating and it was amazing to see the same layout that is echoed through many Pakistani villages - streets with shops and houses and in some places a church, temples, a sundial, stupas and monasteries. It was also interesting to see the Greek and Indian influence and how the construction of the stone walls had changed to resist earthquakes. Some men were working to restore some of the stone walls and we stopped for a glass of hot, sweet green tea with them. &nbsp; The afternoon arrived quickly and we prepared to go our separate ways - V &amp; S were catching a train to Lahore and I went to find a bus to Islamabad - It was sad to say goodbye and strange to start off on my own again but I was also excited by my next plans so with hugs and smiles we left each other for our next adventures. &nbsp;
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