TravelStream™ news feed for member tvpitz on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/tvpitz en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 30 Aug 2007 22:17:00 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188525360/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188525360/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188525360/tpod.html Thu, 30 Aug 2007 22:17:00 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Ararauna, Brazil

Sunday, August 26
Áve Project
Cool, Overcast clouds in the morning.
Scattered clouds in the afternoon.

SPECIAL DAY!

Today, as we finished the morning bird census with Flavio, the posauda manager met us on our return to the compound. He said "be careful when you go in the lab. The boys caught a snake, and we put it in there." We were thinking, "What's the big deal, we've caught a few snakes already. They are small, and fit into the terrarium in the lab without incident." Then the manager said the words we've all be hoping for. He smiled and with a deep voice, whispered "AN....A....CON...DA" ! Anaconda!!!!! Oh my gosh! The Pantanieros had cornered and caught a giant anaconda and it was waiting in the lab to be surveyed and added to our study!!! YEEEE--- HAAAAWWWWW. We ran to the lab to take a look. Oh WOW, what a huge snake it was! It looked to be two to three meters in length, and fifty centimeters in girth! Ellen and Mara, the herpetologists were still in the field with the Herp team, so we had to wait for their return. It was so thrilling. We went into the lab anyway, just to get a close up look. The snake was coiled in the middle of the room. The huge snake's midsection was bulged with a recent meal, perhaps a small capybara. It was very nervous in captivity and had defecated on the floor. At least 50 milliliters of green and yellow snake-poop was smeared all over our lovely lab floor. The stench in the room was atrocious. Nevertheless we were compelled to go in and take a good, close look. We took some pictures with us sitting around the snake, and then waited patiently for the Herp team to come back in their truck.

Anacondas are land/water snakes that live comfortably in the Baía and surrounding areas. They have no predator, except for the Jacarei, and most Caiman will give them a wide birth. The anaconda is has no venom in its bite. It kills its prey by constriction. It squeezes them to death. It sneaks up silently on its prey. Then with amazing swiftness, it bites hard to hold the prey. Then it rapidly wraps its body around the prey, coiling it entirely. It then starts the unmerciful process of slowly squeezing its prey to death. The snake is incredibly strong, even strong enough to crush the life out of a full grown human. We keep our distance and are NEVER with the snake alone. If you were alone, and the snake got around you, you would be a "goner".

Ellen and Mara arrive soon with the Herp team, and join in the excitement. Mara has been working with snakes for years, and has never seen a wild anaconda up close. Our task now is to survey the snake, hopefully without upsetting it too much. If we upset the snake too much, it will regurgitate its meal, perhaps harming itself in the process. Being concerned scientists, our goal is to treat the snake with calm respect. We will measure and photograph it, then return it to the wild. This is NOT an easy task. The snake is huge, and dangerous!

The safest and gentlest thing to do is simply to mob the snake and grab it. Craig has worked in animal habitats before, and has experience with large snakes.
He's "the Man of the Hour" and takes initiative to grab the snake first...right behind its head.
The snake jumps in alarm as we descend on it with all hands. Ellen and Mara direct us to uncoil the snake and under no circumstances allow it to coil up again. Especially, it is NOT to coil around one of US. We wrestle the snake outside and gently place it stretched out on the grass. Ellen and Mara quickly use a tape measure to record its length. It measures an incredible 320 centimeters! That's three meters and 20 centimeters. That's HIGHER than the high diving board at the Olympic swimming pool! (The three meter board)
Next we are to mark the snake by cutting an identifier notch into a specific scale on its belly. This is done so that if we or any other researchers should catch this snake again, we will know it's the one we captured today. The scale to cut is in the caudal (tail) area, near the cloacae. (Anal opening) After we cut the notch, we notice that the snake has intestinal parasites. There are tiny worms emanating from its cloacae. Ellen rushes back into the lab to get a specimen jar and some forceps. She collects some of the worms for later analysis. We are unable to weigh the snake because it is so big and we do not have a proper scale. Regrettable, it is now time to release our precious visitor back into the wild. We have enjoyed our brief visit, but this is a huge wild snake. This snake needs to stay wild. It needs to enjoy a full and meaningful life in the Baía.
So, now we gently lift the snake and carry it to the waters edge, just a few meters away. As we set it down, we expect it to make a speedy dash to the water. But it doesn't. It hesitates for awhile, perhaps to get its bearings. Or perhaps it has sensed that we mean it no harm, and will allow us time to take a few more pictures in an effort to say "thank you". After a long ten seconds, it slides slowly back into the Baía. We watch slowly, in awe of the huge beast. A curious Jacarei paddles over to take a look at the commotion. When it sees the anaconda, it changes direction and leaves in a hurry. Our group is silent as we walk back to the compound. Everyone is hushed with awe. We all agree that we have perhaps witnessed the apex of our trip. What an incredible place this Brazilian Pantanal is!! How could it possibly get any better than this?

We shall see......
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188366120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188366120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188366120/tpod.html Wed, 29 Aug 2007 20:55:38 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Arurauna, Brazil

Thursday, August 23
Ave project with Reggie, Isabelle, and Peggy
5:30 am
Sunny, Hot.

Today, we travel to the Savanna for a bird survey. It is my first day with Dr. Reggie Donatelli. We have terrific fun. Reggie is very patient with us since we are "still babies in the Pantanal." Every bird that Reggie sees is "fantastico", or "magnificent". Even the scrubbiest little brown bird is a thing of beauty to him. In actuality, scrubby brown birds are very rare in Brazil! The birds here are incredibly colorful and truly magnificent! Late in the day we chase an armadillo down its hole. Reggie urges me to grab it by the tail and pull it back out. When I grab it, it just pulls into the hole deeper. They have very strong arms and long digging claws. Reggie will not tell me if they bite or not but he is laughing very hard. I think he's is kidding with me, so I let loose of the beast. We stroll slowly back to the posauda enjoying a lovely sunset and new friendships.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188366420/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188366420/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188366420/tpod.html Wed, 29 Aug 2007 01:59:40 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Arurauna, Brazil

********* A SPECIAL NOTE TO AUGUST READERS. AS I SIT HERE IN THE PANTANAL, I WANT YOU TO KNOW THAT THE INTERNET CONNECTION HAS BEEN UP AND DOWN FOR THE LAST FOUR DAYS. IT HAS BEEN DIFFICULT TO CATCH IT WHEN IT'S AVAILABLE. PLEASE BE PATIENT. I'LL UPLOAD AS FAST AS I CAN. CHECK BACK OFTEN, ESPECIALLY IN SEPTEMBER.**********

The work....

The work here is really quite straight forward. We are counting and cataloging species and numbers of individuals within each species. We are checking for richness, abundance, and evenness in the population. We are counting birds, snakes, lizards, and amphibians. We simply go into the field and identify and count these four types of critters. The definition of our work sounds simple and easy, but as you might guess...it's not. It is very complicated and precise.

The team is split into two groups, one Avian (bird), the other Herpetology (snakes, lizards, and amphibians. We just say "ave" (ah-vay) and "herp" for short. We spend the whole day in that group, but switch off frequently day by day. This way we all get a chance to work both projects equally, and the work never becomes tedious or boring. (Yes, researcher burnout is a BIG problem in the bush.)

Here is how we spend our days;

AVIAN PROJECT

The avian project begins at 5:30 am each day. The team is led by Principal Investigator Reginaldo Jose Donatelli, Ph.D, of Sao Paulo State University. We call him Dr. Donatelli in the field, but at dinner we call him Reggie. His grad student assistant is Flavio Kulaif Ubaid. Our boat captain is Gino, but likes to be called Gim. We are studying two different bird habitats, the rio (river), and the cerrado (savannah). The observation times are 2.5 hours at dawn, and 2.5 hours at dusk. On savannah-day, we walk out onto the Pantanal with our clipboards, binoculars, and cameras. We look for birds. When we see a bird, we identify it and place a tally-mark next to its name on our clipboard species lists. Yes...every single bird is counted. Naturally, we miss a few, but not many. We have field guide-books that list the birds of Brazil with beautiful color sketches. In truth, the birds are much more spectacular live in the field. We hardly ever have to look in the book. Dr. Donatelli and Flavio know all the birds by sight and song. We also take along a birdsong recorder, which we use when we hear a particularly interesting bird singing. There are five of us in the group, and we view and assist each other. Teamwork is paramount. On river-day, we load into a small rowboat and silently pole downriver. Our boat-captain, Gim, is a quiet pantaneiro who breaks into wonderful comedy when slightly provoked. We sight and count the birds in the same fashion that we do on the savannah-day. The camaraderie here is fabulous. We have already established a competition to see who sights the most species of birds, and the most numbers of birds. Yesterdays morning survey logged 388 birds of 80 different species. Dr. Donatelli is a terrific guy and a wonderful professor. He is an expert avian biologist, knowing a bird's species from a glimpse on-wing, or even from hearing their song from afar. He is quick to smile and laugh at the smallest joke, and when he does, he reminds me of Tony Shaloub from TV and movies. He is a busy professional, but still loves to sit and view all of our photographs, telling us what wonderful scientists we are. He leads our late night card games. A Brazilian game called TRUCCO is an all time favorite. I'm honored to call him mentor and friend.

HERPETOLOGY PROJECT (Snakes, Lizards, and Amphibians)

The herp project begins each day at 7:30 am. It is lead by Principal Investigator Ellen Wang of Sao Paulo State University and Mara Cintia Kiefer, Ph,D of the State University of Rio de Janeiro. In the morning, we pile into the back of the truck and venture out to the savannah. Our destination is to visit eight stations of pitfall traps that are in place already. Each station has four traps, one in the middle, and the other three five meters away, in star formation. Stretched and staked between each trap is dense green nylon netting. (See photos) The traps themselves would remind you of a 30 gallon plastic garbage can buried up to the lid in the ground. Here's how they work. The critters are roaming around on the ground. When they bump into the netting, they do not back away or turning around. They usually just follow along the line of the net. Eventually, they will fall into one of the pitfall traps. We collect them the next day. The traps have a little dish of water and a damp towel at the bottom to keep the herp hydrated. Each morning we check the traps. We collect the specimens and place them in specially numbered bags that match the number of the trap. We will take the specimen back to the lab for analysis, tagging (marking), and cataloging. This is done in the afternoon, after lunch and siesta each day. Each live specimen is returned back to the exact location and released the following day. Half of the traps are in low impact areas of the dry forest (cerradao), and the other half are in high impact areas. A high impact area is an area of the forest where the local cattle like to bed down for the night. This is called a cordilheira. The trap area is fenced off to keep the cattle out, but the immediate surrounding area is not. Ellen and Mara are very knowledgeable herpetologists. They are good friends and rattle away in Portuguese constantly. They are very polite, and always explain things to us slowly and concisely so we will understand. Ellen is a Brazilian of Chinese descent. Her grandparents came to Brazil when they were very young. They ventured into a new frontier where they had no family or friends. Mara makes her home in Rio de Janeiro. She insists that she is NOT a carioca because she was NOT born in Rio. (A carioca is a "Rio Girl") Both of these incredible women speak many languages. So far, I've heard Portuguese, English, French, and German, all spoken fluently and will little hesitation. The Herp project is a fascinating study. I leave each day intellectually fulfilled and physically exhausted.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188083280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188083280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188083280/tpod.html Wed, 29 Aug 2007 01:46:36 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Campo Grande, Brazil

I thought you might like some specifics about what we are doing here in the Pantanal. The following are excepts from the EarthWatch website

http://www.earthwatch.org/site/pp.asp?c=dsJSK6PFJnH&am p;am p;am p;b=1524107.

It is from the mission briefing that each member of the expedition receives before the journey even begins. Please explore the website to find out more about what this exciting organization is doing to put people in touch with preserving our precious resources.

Situation Report
Rio Negro, Mato Grosso to Sul, Brazil - The Pantanal supports more than 690 different species of birds, including hundreds of migratory species that cross the Pantanal on three major flyways. The extensive network of wetlands is an important source of food and water for migrating birds during the dry season, and also provides critical habitat for jabiru storks, spoonbills, ibises, wood storks, and other resident waders. Other Pantanal habitats support macaws, parrots, woodpeckers, kingfishers, grosbeaks, and hummingbirds. With such a dazzling concentration of bird life, it's surprising how little we know about them in terms of habitat use. With the help of Earthwatch volunteers, Dr. Reginaldo Donatelli has documented more than 400 species of birds in the Rio Negro area, and is piecing together distribution patterns across the Pantanal's diverse habitats. On the Expedition
Working in a range of habitats, from wetlands to forests, you will help Donatelli use a variety of sampling methods to count and band birds. You will observe and record foraging and mating behaviors, tape bird songs and calls, and collect samples of vegetation and droppings for analysis of food sources. Donatelli's teams have found some rare species and extended the range of others, so expect to make discoveries. As a participant in the Pantanal Conservation Research Initiative, you may spend part of your time on complimentary research tasks (see team schedule). Back at the ranch, you can choose from an array of recreational activities, including horseback riding, boat rides, and walks in forests and fields, where you can see an amazing diversity of wildlife.


Meals and Accommodations
Accommodations will be at a comfortable ranch/inn, or pousada, part of a 2,610-hectare property belonging to a private university in Mato Grosso do Sul. Located along the Rio Correntoso, a tributary of the Rio Negro, the ranch is a great place for visitors to see capybaras, otters, and other wildlife most people only see on television. The pousada staff will prepare filling and tasty meals to fortify you for the rigors of the field.

Rendezvous Site Campo Grande, Brazil
Research Mission:
Discover the conservation needs of frogs, snakes, turtles and related animals in the region.

Situation Report
Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil - The Pantanal is a wetland so enormous that early European settlers thought they had discovered a great inland sea. In fact, this is the world's largest freshwater wetland, a spectacular refuge of lakes, waterways, and islands roughly the size of Denmark. It should be no surprise that the lush, green Pantanal is a paradise for amphibians and reptiles. Biologists have found 41 species of amphibians and 24 species of reptiles in the Rio Negro basin alone, from caimans and yellow anacondas to a startling abundance of frogs. These sensitive animals are often the first to show the effects of environmental disturbance. You can help Ellen Wang and colleagues monitor these creatures for the effects of human impacts on the Pantanal's rich ecosystem. On the Expedition
You will work in a diversity of unique Pantanal habitats, ranging from meandering wetlands to shady forests. Ellen Wang, Jeffrey Himmelstein, Mara Keifer, and Hamish Campbell have extensive experience in the region, and are eager to share their knowledge of local ecology. You will use a variety of methods to catch and record red-footed tortoises, false water cobras, tiny tree frogs, and other animals. As a participant in the Pantanal regional initiative, you may also spend part of your time working on a related project, maximizing your experience of this world-class wetland (see team schedule). Your spare time is free for birdwatching or canoeing on the Rio Negro in search of capybaras, tapirs, and other wildlife. You will also get opportunities to interact with the local pantaneiros, or cowboys, and learn about their rich culture.

Wednesday, August 22
Sunny Hot
Rio, with Flavio, Claiton, and Gim.

Today was a choice, awesome day!

I was on the river today with Flavio. Claiton was the other expedition member, and Gim was our boat captain. Like the other locales, the river is surveyed for 2.5 hours in the dawn, and then again at dusk. Each day, we usually return to the posauda shortly after sunset. Rio duty is done from a small aluminum rowboat. We are there to survey the bird population that lives on, or near the river. The procedure is exactly that of the survey done on the cerrado (savanna). We see a bird, identify it, and tally it on our clipboards. We also carry a voice recorder to catch unique and special songs. Rio duty is very quiet and peaceful. Because sound travels so readily on the water, it is compulsory to be silent. Conversations are held to a minimum, and when necessary are spoken in hushed tones. The rio is so incredibly alive. Birds, mammals, bugs and critters are everywhere! Every turn of the river reveals something new and exciting. The river is shallow and slow moving this time of year. We float downstream, and Gim poles with a length of bamboo he as cut from the nearby jungle. Occasionally he'll use a standard aluminum and plastic oar, but you can tell he prefers his stick. We are traveling at about the pace you could walk at a slow to steady rate of speed. In two and a half hours, we probably cover about 3 kilometers. We are on the Correnoso River, in the heart of the Nhecolandia region of the Pantanal. As you might imagine, the rio in the morning is where the greatest diversity of species is located. The place is frantic with birds. It takes intense concentration to do the census correctly, especially with neophytes like us. Flavio takes it all in stride and is very patient and supportive. Nevertheless, we still see him taking frantic notes aside from the conversations he's having with us. He is an expert ornithologist, and in some ways he's patiently humoring us out-of-towners. Nevertheless four sets of eyeballs in the boat is preferable to one. We get a HUGE amount of real science done in two and a half hours. Then Flavio says finite, and Gim starts the engine and turns the boat around for the ride back upriver. NOW we can talk loud and have fun. You only census the birds going IN, never coming out, for fear of counting the same birds twice. Gim is huge fun. He has a smile as broad as the sunset and is quick to laugh and make a joke of our foreigner silliness. You might think he's goofing off, but in truth, he is watching the river like a Mark Twain Mississippi river pilot. The river is shallow and he knows deep in his memory where to guide the boat to keep from running aground on a sand bar. And he knows the animals of the river. He always slows down or stops when he sees a critter he knows we'll all want to photograph. Critters like River Otters and Capybara. The River Otters are extremely rare planet wide, but abundant here in the Pantanal. The Capybara is the largest rodent in the world, growing to a meter in length. They would remind you of a large dog or pig. And then there are the Caimans. These are smallish alligator-like reptiles that flourish in the Pantanal. It's very important scientifically that you understand that they are a type of alligator, not crocodile. The locals call them Jacarei. ("Jacque-ah-ray") We are not counting the Jacarei at this time. EarthWatch has a special project exclusively for the Jacarei, and we are not part of it at this time. Nevertheless, they are a fierce and fascinating creature, and we photograph many of them. They are all over the river banks. Gim slows the boat abruptly so we can catch and hold a pod of Jacarei young that are swimming across the river. They travel in swarms. The Jacarei is a fascinating creature, but you must keep your distance. They are FIERCE, and their bite can be deadly. Speaking of deadly....it's important to note that there are no Piranha in the area, and there are no Mosquitoes with malaria. There are no Candiru fish either. The Candiru is a fish of the Amazon, hundreds of kilometers north of here. The Candiru is a small catfish, three centimeters in length, and five millimeters in girth. If you swim in the river, the Candiru will swim into any orifice on your body. It will then open its spiny pectoral fins and lock itself into position, making it impossible to pull out. It particularly likes to inhabit human bladders. I will NOT be swimming in the rio! And so ends my first day on the Rio Correnoso. It's particularly gorgeous. I love this place!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188020880/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188020880/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1188020880/tpod.html Sat, 25 Aug 2007 02:11:51 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Campo Grande, Brazil

Today was a great day. I worked the Herp project all day. (No birds!) Now that I've worked both projects, I've got a feel for the repetitiveness that we will be having.
There is a vast array of wildlife here and we need to document like crazy to get them all down. More later.... Dr. Donatelli, Frenchie Isabel, Todd, Flavio, and I are playing a card game called "Truco".Everyone else has gone to bed. It's 10:30 pm. I'm mostly watching. I don't know how to play yet. No money. No betting. Brazilian games do not involve "losing". Everyone has fun and wins.
The windows are open, and even still, we are identifying the bird song that is coming in from the night birds. Gosh....I'm having a wonderful time...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187922720/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187922720/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187922720/tpod.html Thu, 23 Aug 2007 22:52:41 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Campo Grande, Brazil

Wow, Monday was a whirlwind day. So much happened, so fast!
EarthWatch Team XI to the Pantanal was to rendezvous in the hotel lobby at 7:00 am. There we would meet and load the transport van leaving for the research site.
It was great fun to finally meet the team. There are 10 of us total. Myself, Todd, Claiton, Isabel, Craig, Fara, Hayley, Isabelle, Celia, and Peggy. (You'll meet them all individual when I post their biographies soon.) We are international travelers from all over the world. In the lobby, there were brief smiles and introductions. Then we jumped into the van for the two hours drive to the little town of Aquidauana. During this drive, we chatted and spent the time getting to know one another. My teammates are terrific! You'll like them too, as you get to know them. We arrived into tiny Aquidauana and were loaded into two small Cessna airplanes for the final leg of our journey to the research site at Pousada Ararauna. We were only allowed one soft sided bag and a rucksack. The total allowable weight was to be forty pounds! The pilots were very polite, and never had us weight in our gear, but I did see them discreetly "heft" them to make sure we were within safe loading weight.


The flight in was incredible. To get to the Pousada by jeep would take five hours. We were there in 30 minutes. The pilots flew at one thousand foot elevation so that we could get a good look at the boundaries and interior of the Pantanal flood plain. Wow what a sight! I loved being in the airplane, but I couldn't wait to get down into the field. Soon, our little planes touched down and skidded to a stop at my new home for two weeks.



Please visit our research site web page at...


http://www.pousadaararauna.com.br

We were then hurried through a check-in process and a quick meal. The rest of the day was spent in our "classroom" getting a full mission briefing. These meeting went well into the evening, after which most of us went to our little beds and passed out from travel exhaustion.
Here is what our mission expedition is all about:

To be continued...

Tuesday, August 21 2007
Sunny-Hot

It's an exciting day! It's the first day in the field. I drew the Herp Project today!
Today we will drive out and "open" all the traps. The traps have been shut since the previous study group. The lids are closed, dirt is swept over it, and a branch or small log is placed on top to keep it in place during wind. We will uncover them, lock the lids open, and put water in the trays. ********
Last night we held a lottery to see what group each person would be with each day. Ellen was very excited to get "all the boys" for Tuesday. She said "that's good for opening trap day". Now I know why. Opening the traps is hot and dusty work. Even though the lids are on, dirt and leaves still find their way inside the trap. All the leaves and sticks must be removed. The traps are deep, so you have to lie on your belly sometimes to get to the bottom. The traps are full of crickets, spiders, and ...SCORPIONS! Using bare hands is not recommended. Oh and by the way...the ground, leaves, and bushes all have a healthy population of tiny ticks no bigger than a poppy seed. They want nothing more than to get on your clothing and then crawl their way to some warm skin, there to burrow in for the duration. This is what we did all day. It took most of the day. Dinner was quick, and bed came early.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187834640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187834640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187834640/tpod.html Wed, 22 Aug 2007 22:38:35 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Campo Grande, Brazil

The Hotel Gran Exceler in Campo Grande was clean and quite adequate for my needs. After all, I just needed a place to sleep and await the rendezvous with the EarthWatch vans at 7 am Monday morning. I arrived in the mid afternoon and was the first of our team at the hotel. My tiny little room had three beds in it. I was told to expect Todd and Craig at any time. Since I was exhausted, I decided to take a nap while awaiting their arrival. I don't really remember much after my head hit the pillow. I awoke with a start at precisely 6 pm. The noise that woke me sounded like a fire station across the street ringing its bell. I looked out the window to see a large group of people streaming into a tiny catholic church across the street. Six o'clock Mass was just beginning. I was curious, and decided to go have a look. I was not surprised when I was greeted by many kind people and invited inside. The church was full to capacity, and it was standing room only, so I joined some friendly people standing in the back. The service was lovely. I didn't understand most of it since it was given in Portuguese, but the spirit was nice, so I decided to stay. After the Mass, the children lined up to get popcorn from cart vendors on the sidewalk. I crossed back over to my hotel thinking about the hunger pangs in my stomach. Up in my room I met Todd, my roommate and the first of EarthWatch team XI to the Pantanal. He's a great guy, and I'll tell you all about him after we've met the rest of the team. We went downstairs and found a few more members of our eleven member crew. We went down the street to a very nice fish restaurant. There is much to tell here, but suffice it to say that we began to build the solid friendships that would see us through the next two weeks at the research site. I'm anxious to get into the field, and I'm sure you are too!
To be continued.......
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187813640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187813640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187813640/tpod.html Wed, 22 Aug 2007 16:33:15 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Campo Grande, Brazil

Sao Paulo to Campo Grande

Leaving the airplane, I simply followed my fellow passengers to the customs lines. They were long, but simple. I had nothing to declare, and there were no searches. The customs officials were polite and very helpful. Mostly, I just had to follow the crowd. I exited customs and found my way to the American Airlines domestic departure counter. It all seems so simple. There were very few people in the halls. When I arrived, I found that section of the terminal totally deserted. I certainly started to feel like a stranger in a strange land. My ticket said American Airlines, but there wasn't any staff at the counter! I wasn't worried. After all, I had a few hours. I found a nice person to ask for assistance.
She showed me that I had to switch to the domestic airline "TAM" and go to the other side of the airport. When I got there, I was greeted with a busy, bustling terminal. The place was packed. All domestic flights checked in at one set of counters and I estimated the line was an hour long at least! I got into line and found out it was moving slower than I thought. I started to worry about missing my flight. There was nothing I could do, so I just waited my turn. As I stood in line, I started to watch the crowds around me. It was Sunday morning, and it seemed like all of Sao Paulo was traveling today. As I pondered this, I noticed key differences between the crowds in Brazil and those in America. The airport was packed with families. There were children everywhere. Husbands and wives were traveling together, and they had all their kids with them. I hadn't noticed it before, because unlike the U.S., the children here in Brazil were remarkably well behaved. They are neat, well dressed, polite and courteous. What a delight. Since I had plenty of time to kill, the scientist in me decided to "look deeper" and see what other differences I could find. This is what I observed: The mothers were pretty much managing the group and keeping everyone together. There was no nervousness in them. They seemed calm and assured, keeping their little flocks together with just a look or a quiet word. Most of the work was being done by the younger girls, aged 11 to 13. They were the busy ones. They were busy taking care of baby and keeping silly brothers in line. And here's the fun part: Daddy is "KING" in Brazil. The children adore their fathers. They cannot keep from sitting in his lap, kissing his cheeks, and patting his head...combing his hair with their fingers; Boys and girls alike. And the daddy loves them back, and more importantly, he absolutely adores his wife. You can see it in the way he looks at her, and the way she smiles back. The family unit is strong and healthy in Brazil. It's a delight to see.

Add to this, the Brazilian people are absolutely gorgeous! The women are stunning, and the men are ruggedly handsome. The children are perfection to behold. This is due to the complex diversity of multiracial chromosomes in their genome. The primary races inhabiting Brazil are Europeans, African, Asian, and Arabs. These races blended with the indigenous peoples of Brazil, and a delightful blend of phenotypes is the result. Gosh, they're pretty.....and friendly too! Brazilians are quick to assist or to answer a curious traveler's questions. They are warm and polite. If you would like to see a Brazilian woman smile, simply tell her that her children are muita bonita y educata. (Very beautiful and polite.) She will hold your hand and kiss you lightly on the cheek.

My wait in line went quickly, as my respect for Brazilians grew. Soon I found myself on my next plane bound for Campo Grande. (Say "Campo Grand-jay") Unfortunately, my window seat was the last seat in the back of the plane, and I couldn't see out the window at all. I left cold, rainy Sao Paulo having no idea of what I would find when we landed. Two hours later, and a few hundred kilometers west, by northwest, our wheels hit the runway, and we taxied to the terminal. It was a small airport, so ladder-steps were brought to the plane and we stepped out into the bright sunshine. What a wonderful surprise. The sun was out, the cool breeze was a gentle five knots out of the south, and the temps were a balmy 30 degrees C. (about 80 degrees F.) The airport was smallish, about the size of Riverside International, and the ecology and topography was very familiar to me. What I expected to be hot, humid, and tropical, was exactly like Riverside in spring. If I didn't know better, I'd thought we had just landed in Mira Loma. It looked exactly the same!

It was quickly approaching noon, and I was starving. Rather than heading directly to my hotel, I decided to get some lunch at the airport. I passed over all the fast food, and peeked inside a cozy restaurant at the end of the concourse. I was immediately greeted by my "newest best friend" Rinaldo, the manager of what appeared to be a cross between a fine dining establishment and a cafeteria. This is the restaurante tipico of Brazil. Rinaldo asked kindly how he could be of service, and I told him I was travel-weary and was looking for some bebida fria and some petiscos. (Cold drink and snacks) He graciously showed me to a table, where a waiter was already waiting. I seemed to be the most important customer of the day! I soon had a refreshing drink and a menu.

The restaurant was quite busy, filled once again with beautiful Brazilian families. Tables were pushed together and slid aside as fast as the people could come and go. Even though the people were eating lunch, it seemed more important to them that they be visiting with each other and all the people at the tables next to them. What an uncommon sight! Once again, little girls were sitting in daddy's lap, and mother was smiling proudly at her brood. Little boys were standing at the big windows watching the airplanes on the nearby runway take off and land. In fact, most everyone was watching the planes come and go. They would applaud quietly and smile every time a new arrival or departure would occur. Many times, I would see the men cross themselves and kiss their index knuckle as a plane would take off or land. They were wishing safety and giving thanks for the passengers, crew, and the plane itself. What a wonderful thing. What a terrific people!

Now it was time to eat. Naturally, I planned to eat whatever everyone else was eating. My parents taught me how to act in a polite restaurant and how to seek out the best vittles. It didn't take me long to discover that most of the patrons were partaking of the Brazilian buffet tucked in a discrete corner of the café, and that was where I was headed!
Rinaldo smiled as I gestured toward the buffet, and he decided that he would escort me there to show off his presentation. Oh my gosh what a spread it was! These two tiny tables were packed with two dozen or more platters of strange and wonderful delights. The smells were delectable and I hadn't realized how hungry I was. I LOVE Brazilian food! My dear friends Mariana and Johnny cook for me now and then in Riverside. Mariana is a Carioca, (Girl from Rio D.J.) and a wonderful cook. Brazilian faire is very predictable in some ways and surprisingly delightful in others. You can always count on finding beans and rice...sweet breads and manioca. Often there are at least three types of meat. Chicken, pork, and beef are the usual. As you might imagine, the meat in Brazil is exceptional, especially the beef. (More on this....beef and ranching....later!)
The highlight of the Brazilian buffet is always the salads. There are so many....and they are so colorful! Cabbage, squash, pickles, olives, hard boiled eggs, shredded carrots and beet. The list goes on and on. Many of the greens are not found in the States. Don't look for iceberg lettuce. You won't see it. All are tasty and wonderfully "different" than I'm used to. After stuffing myself, I bid my new friends Adeus and Tchau, and stepped out to find my way to my hotel. A very nice cab driver delivered me to my hotel in less than 10 minutes. He insisted that I sit up front with him so that he could teach me a few more Portuguese words. I checked into my hotel, anxious to meet my two roommates, the two guys I'd be pounding the Pantanal with for the next two weeks!
To be continued........


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187470560/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187470560/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187470560/tpod.html Tue, 21 Aug 2007 18:46:06 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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Ontario, California, United States

HI all. This is Patricia pinch hitting while Dr. P is in the air. He
took off today at 11:45 am from Ontario, CA to arrive in Dallas, TX at
4:45 local time. With a quick change of plane in Dallas he'll fly all
night to Sao Paulo, Brazil to arrive at 5:40 am local time. He's got a
couple of hours to kill in the airport before leaving for an hour and
40 minute flight to Campo Grande where he'll stay overnight before
leaving for the research site. I'm sure he'll check in with us from
there. I'm excited for our favorite scientist while mooning over
missing my best buddy for 2 weeks. Bon Voyage, sweetheart! Happy
landings!
Saturday August 18 Departure

Departure day has finally arrived! After months of anticipation, I am very excited to be on my way. I've never been to South America before and I'm absolutely certain that my experiences will be full and rewarding.

Note aside:
I am actually typing these initial notes on Tuesday, after my arrival to the Pantanal. It has been difficult to find time to type. In addition, the Internet signal here is spotty and weak at best. Therefore, I will be e-mailing my entries to my lovely wife Patricia. She will then be posting them to the blog. I will do my best to send updates as frequently as possible.

And so...we begin...

Patricia dropped me off at Ontario International Airport on Saturday morning. She pushed me out onto the tarmac and said, "If you get hurt, I'll kick your dead carcass! See you in two weeks." In truth, we shared a hug and a tear. We do not like to be separated, even for a day. However, this trip is an EarthWatch fellowship, and Patricia will not be able to accompany me. I have much work to accomplish in a very short time. This is not a vacation. The cattle are harming the Pantanal. Biodiversity is declining and ways must be found to establish a better team approach with the ranchers. And so, I begin the first leg of my journey.

Ontario to Dallas/Fort Worth was an easy flight. Clear weather and no turbulence....and then my first surprise! Dallas is .....GREEN! I had this idea that Dallas would be yellows and browns, much like California in the summer. Perhaps I got this idea from watching the entry scenes from the old "Dallas" television show. But, it's very green, with many lakes and streams. Water sports abound. After landing, I rushed to switch planes for my connection to Sao Paulo.

DFW to Sao Paulo started out as not being much fun. The airplane was crowded and very cold....extremely cold. I had dressed for the tropics, and it wasn't enough. On top of that, I had first day jitters and my stomach was upset. Dinner came...and went....quickly. But then my luck started to turn. My seat mate noticed that I was uncomfortable, and offered to share his blanket. I accepted graciously. Soon, we were chatting, and I got to know one of the nicest men on the planet. Nico is from Greece (imagine that), and was traveling on business to Brasilia. He's a consultant for a Greek import/export company. He speaks fluent Greek, Portuguese, and English. However, he told me that he only speaks two languages...he really doesn't consider himself English-speaking. Of course, he told me this in perfect English. He's a terrific guy, and we had a very pleasant visit together. The night was long and dark over the Gulf of Mexico. At 3 am, the airlines served breakfast as we approached Sao Paulo. We got there at dawn, setting our final approach into clouds, rain, and a wet runway. I was not very thrilled about landing in Sao Paulo in the rain! We landed safely however, and I found myself in Brazil.....dark...wet...and COLD! The temps were in the 50's Fahrenheit, and damp. The airport was packed with people but I had 4 hours to make my transfer to Campo Grande. It turned out that I would need every minute of those 4 hours!
To be continued...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187594580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187594580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tvpitz/brazil_aug._07/1187594580/tpod.html Mon, 20 Aug 2007 03:26:35 -0400 Preserving the Pantanal. Dr. Pitruzzello's EarthWatch expedition into the vast floodplain of Brazil!

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entry & travel map

Campo Grande, Brazil

I have 2 roomates . We went to imbibe and sample local cuisine. Brazilians are FANTASTIC! There were loud churchbells this morning across from the hotel-so I went to church. So far I love Brazil.
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