TravelStream™ news feed for member travelling_jess on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/travelling_jess en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 18 Sep 2008 07:42:31 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203202800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203202800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203202800/tpod.html Thu, 18 Sep 2008 07:42:31 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

After a nighmarishly busy day at work, I finally manage to escape the office and haul myself and all my gear into a cab to Paddington, and 40 minutes later I am relieved to be Heathrow.After hearing so many stories about luggage being lost en-route to Kilimanjaro, I have decided to take the Michelin Man approach and wear as many of my clothes as possible on the plane. I'm also testing the upper limit of the hand luggage restrictions by packing my daysack to the point of bursting. Naturally this is all rather uncomfortable but its better than the prospect of heading out on the trek with no warm clothes.The flight to Nairobi is uneventful. I'd been fairly apprehensive about flying with Kenya Airways but my fears were unfounded. At Nairobi, I have a 6 hour wait for my connecting flight to Kilimanjaro, and anyone who's been to Nairobi airport will know that this is far from an enjoyable experience. The airport is small, very old and very run down, and although there are about a hundred souvenir shops, there are bugger-all places to sit down and chill out. Finally they call the flight for boarding. It turns out I didnt have to worry about my luggage being lost - all the bags are laid out on the tarmac next to the teeny-tiny (aka 'flying cigar') plane, and before we board the flght, we have to personally identify ours, and make sure it is put into the luggage hold. Nice.I'm pretty sure nearly everyone on the flight is off on a Kili climb of some description and all are in high spirits. On the way, we pass quite close to the mountain and you can almost feel the plane tilt as everyone rushes over to peek out the left hand side and take photos. Seeing Mt Kili up close like that I start to feel the first twinges of excitement (or is it panic?) - she certainly is huge! The flight is only about 45 minutes, so in no time at all, we are at tiny Kilimanjaro airport and filling in various bits of paper to secure our visas and having our Yellow Fever certificates checked.My travel agent had organised a transfer from the airport to the hotel in Marangu for me, but when all the other passengers have long gone, comes the realisation that just perhaps I have been forgotten. Never mind. A few phone calls and another hour of waiting later, I am finally on my way to Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort in Marangu.It's quite late by the time I arrive, and I am just in time for dinner and to meet the rest of my group, most of whom have been there for a day or so already.The group is a mixture of ages, and mostly British. There's Emma and Charlotte, both in their early 20's from Essex. Ian & Kathy, an English married couple in their mid-30's, Izabela from Poland who will come to be known as 'Mamma Africa', the hilarious Gary, Ken, Marvin and Neil from Belfast, British Peter (who now lives with his wife in Singapore) and John, a financial journalist from London. Most people in the group are fairly novice trekkers so it is reassuring to know we're all at a similar level.After a briefing from the tour leader, those who have hired gear are allocated their stuff. I am surprised how many people were hiring things - I've brought all my own kit with me and am rather glad I did as some of the hire-gear looks a bit ropey. The duvet jackets in particular absolutely stink!After a buffet dinner and a few beers, we all head to our rooms to sort out our gear for the next morning. We've been told our bags are to weigh no more than 15kg. I decide to leave small bag of things I won't be needing at the hotel - like shower gel and shampoo (!), as its the only way I can get my bag under the limit.So with bag packed and butterflies in my stomach, it's time to hit the sack. It's been a very long day.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203094500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203094500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203094500/tpod.html Thu, 18 Sep 2008 07:42:00 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

London, England, United Kingdom

I'm not sure exactly when I first got the urge to climb Africa's hightest mountain - Mt Kilimanjaro, but it was after my first trip to Africa last year that I actually decided to go through with it. I met quite a few people in Zanzibar who'd just come back from doing the climb, and they all raved about how great it had been. If they could all get to the top, how hard could it be??So after scraping together some cash (lets face it, this is not a cheap adventure) and convincing my boss to let me have some MORE time off work, I went ahead and booked the trip. And after months of planning and research, plus hundreds of ££ spent on all manner of gear and equipment, the day of my departure to Tanzania has almost arrived. But before I begin, a little bit of background to Kili for the non-trekkers amongst you.... At 5,895m, Mt Kilimanjaro (affectionaly known as 'Kili') is situated in northern Tanzania, near the border of Kenya. It's the tallest freestanding mountain in the world, and the highest in Africa. To put it into perspective, Everest is 8,840m, and for the Aussies reading this, Mt Kosciusco is a measly 2,228 metres, so its somewhere in between. Kili is the only mountain which you can 'walk' to the top of, but that doesnt mean it's easy. It just means you dont need to use ropes, crampons and other scary climbing equipment (aka Joe Simpson) to get there, and for that reason it attracts around 30,000 trekkers a year. The trek generally takes between 4 and 7 days, depending on which route you take. There are 3 or 4 main routes up the mountain - one of them involves staying in mountain huts, and the others all involve camping. Based on the recommendations of others, I have decided to go via the northern Rongai route which is meant to be one of the quieter paths. I just don't fancy sleeping in stinky old huts with 20 snoring men when I can have my very own tent. Mmmm luxury....
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203642000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203642000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203642000/tpod.html Sun, 07 Sep 2008 05:59:59 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

Our group sets off slowly, walking in single file in order of ability, and flanked at either end by our trusty guides. Its absolutely freezing but I feel reassuringly warm in all my layers. The sky is perfectly clear and the full moon bathes the path ahead in light. The conditions couldn't be more perfect.The climb to the summit of Kilimanjaro consists of two main sections. The first, and longest part, is getting to Gilman's Point at 5,681m. This should take around 6 hours and the idea is to get there in time to see the sunrise over the crater rim. From there it's another hour or so to walk to the true summit, Uhuru at 5,895m.The first 45 minutes or so isn't particularly steep, but even so, at this altitude it takes a lot of effort. It's funny how only a few days ago walking 'pole-pole' felt ridiculously slow, and yet now its the top speed I can manage! We are soon overtaken by some of the other more 'extreme' groups (including the group of doctors who were staying out our hotel in Marangu), but no-one's really bothered too much. We're all keen to conserve our energy.Soon we are heading up the dreaded scree. This section consists of an endless series of switchbacks on loose scree - imagine zig-zagging up a sandy hill. As its cold the ground is a bit firmer than it is during the day, but it still doesn't make for easy walking. The time seems to drag really slowly and when I look at my watch after what feels like hours, I am gutted to see we have only been walking for two. Every time I look up, all I can see is a never ending line of lights from people's head torches zig-zagging towards the Gilman's Point.The group starts to spread out as some of the guys are walking at a faster pace than the rest of us. After a few hours, I have dropped towards the back of the group and am feeling very, very tired. I have to keep stopping every 20 meters or so to have a rest, and every time I stop, one of the guides appears to usher me along. As I'm feeling so tired, Gerard, our guide, offers to carry my pack for me which is a huge help. By this point I'm really not feeling great at all, and in fact have to stop to be sick. Thankfully this makes me feel a whole lot better and I head off again, albeit slowly.Before we've even made it half way, Charlotte becomes unwell and is struggling with her breathing, so has to be escorted back down to Kibo. I hope she's OK and try to put it out of my mind.By now I'm about 3/4 of the way to Gilman's point and its starting to get light already. Somehow I don't think I'm going to be at Gilman's Point in time for sunrise! The wind is so so bitterly cold and my face and hands are really hurting - I have never felt this cold before in my life. Eventually Gilman's point is within my reach, and am buoyed by the knowledge I am going to make it. For the last 100m or so, the scree gives way to a series of huge rocks to scramble over. It is here I am reunited with 4 or 5 people from my group. I am so relieved to discover I'm not the only one going slowly, that in a sudden burst of energy, I even manage to overtake them to get to the top! It's about 8am by the time I finally haul myself over the last boulder to Gilman's Point, well after sunrise. One of the guys in my group has already been to Uhuru and back! I feel absolutely shattered and am shivering uncontrollably. My face is so frozen I can hardly speak. I can't even muster the effort to get my camera out to take a photo. (I actually took this one on the way back) The guide who has been carrying my bag thinks I should head back down but I tell him no-way, I am going on to the summit. After all, I have come all this way! I have some milo and try to eat a flapjack but my mouth is so dry I can't chew it, so have to give up. After resting for half an hour or so, I haul myself up and set off towards the summit, trailing behind the rest of the group.The path to Uhuru is covered in snow and ice for most of the way, and for the first part, there's nothing stopping you from slipping over the edge into the crater. I have to stop literally every 20 metres to catch my breath, and my heart is pounding so fast I feel like I am going to have a heart attack! Near Stella Point (about half way), Emma starts to feel pretty bad and she and some of the others decide to head back down.However, I am determined to make it, so trudge onwards, one foot in front of the other. After what must be the longest hour in my life, I am finally standing next to the famous sign. I'm pretty sure I must be the last person to the summit that day, but I don't care, I'm just happy to have made it. The feeling is indescribable. In the photo I am holding my arm up, but I tell you, my arms felt like lead and took all my strength to do so. By now the guide is very keen to get me down as it's clear I am suffering from mild hypothermia and exhaustion. It's about minus 20 degrees at the summit, and the wind slices through you like a knife. I've been trying not to think about the fact that although getting to the summit has taken everything out of me, I now have to walk ALL the way back to Kibo Hut, AND then walk for another 3-4 hours on to the next camp at Horombo Hut before dusk.We get back to Gilman's Point about 45 minutes later, have a quick rest and then start the long descent towards Kibo. It's strange seeing it in broad daylight, and of course it doesnt seem anywhere near as high or steep as it had the night before. Once we get onto the scree, I'm able to 'scree-run' where you essentially half walk, half slide down the loose scree. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy and a lot faster than walking normally - and right now, speed is my main priority!By the time I got back to Kibo Hut, I've missed lunch and the rest of the group have already headed off towards Horombo. I beg the porters to let me sleep for a little while before they take my tent down and thankfully they agree. I am allowed to sleep for an hour, and then pack up my gear to head to Horombo Hut with one of the guides. Thankfully the walk to Horombo isn't too bad - flat and downhill most of the way. Hurrah! I pass lots of other walkers who are just arriving at Kibo for a summit attempt that night. They all want to know if I made it to the summit and it feels so good to tell them I did! I arrive at Hormobo just in time for dinnner, and the group excitedly recounts their experiences from the night before. Out of our group, 7 made it to Uhuru Peak, and 4 made it to Stella Point which was a pretty good effort. Charlotte however, was in a pretty bad way when she arrived back at Kibo, and had to be stretchered all the way to the gate and taken to hospital. She was fine in the end, but in when it comes to altitude sickness, you don't want to take any chances.After our meal (my first in over 24 hours) we are naturally all very keen to get to bed, so collapse in our tents still smiling about our adventure.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1218375840/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1218375840/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1218375840/tpod.html Sat, 06 Sep 2008 04:05:16 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

This morning after we have breakfast and pack up our gear, there is a tip-giving ceremony for our guides and porters. The Kilimanjaro tipping process is rather complicated, and instead of us simply handing over our collective tips, we need to divvy up the money up into the amounts we think appropriate for head guide, support guides, cook, porters etc etc. For most of them, the tips are their main source of income, and we want to make sure we don't underpay anyone.Once we've worked it out, everyone gathers around in a circle and Emma is nominated to hand out the tips. In a not-very-British-like fashion, the amount of tip each person is receving is announced to the group and then given to them. The guides and porters then sing the 'Kilimanjaro' song for us which is all rather touristy, and we get the feeling they are a little tired of performing it.After the ceremony is over, we hit the trail for what will be our final day of walking. By this point, everyone is super-keen to get back to the hotel for a hot shower and a cold beer. It's now been 6 days since we last had proper wash and clean clothes so we're all feeling a little grubby.What a treat to be walking downhill again - no more 'pole-pole' today! The trail is very pleasant, much of it through rainforest and therefore out of the sun. We stop for lunch at Mandara hut which is on the popular Marangu Route, and empathise with the climbers heading in the opposite direction on what is day 1 of their trek.Our packed lunches are pretty unappetising and we keep ourselves entertained by fantasising about what the first meal we have when we get back home will be.By early afternoon we are back at the gate - hurrah! I had expected there to be a throng of vendors selling souvineers and the like but am surprised to find the area very quiet.Before we're allowed to leave, everyone has to sign the official register and wait for them to write up our certificates. Boy do they love paperwork in Africa. There's a shop selling cold softdrinks and beers which is most exciting so we all get stuck in while we wait for our transfer. I tell you Fanta has never tasted so good - by this point I think I would have happily paid £5 for a bottle! A short ride in a truck, and we are soon back at our hotel. Oh my god it feels so good to have a shower! I stand under the water for an eternity, or at least until the water coming off me is no longer brown from the dirt!I also see myself in a mirror for the first time and it is not a pretty sight. The effects of yesterday's wind and sun burn have really taken their toll on my face and I am puffed up like a blowfish! My entire top lip is swollen from where my nose was running all night, and its already starting to peel. Nice.Leaving some clean clothes at the hotel was a very smart move as everything in my bag is absolutely filthy and covered in dust.When everyone's showered and clean, we head to the bar for many, many celebratory beers and some proper food. We also receive our certificates - official evidence of our achievement. Around midnight, we're struggling to keep our eyes open, and its time to head to bed. We're all totally exhausted, but very pleased with ourselves. Most people are heading home tomorrow and we can hardly believe our adventure is over already.So in retrospect, am I glad I did it? Absolutely. Would I ever do it again? Probably not. But ask me again in a year's time and I might have a different answer.....
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/3/1188077880/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/3/1188077880/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/3/1188077880/tpod.html Fri, 05 Sep 2008 15:00:05 -0400 Overland adventure through Kenya, Uganda, DR Congo and Tanzania

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Virunga National Park, Congo - The Dem. Repub.

Today's the day we've all been waiting for - we are off to trek the Mountain Gorillas. It's thought there are less than 700 mountain gorillas left in the world, and the majority of them are congregated in rainforests of Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo. To visit the gorillas you need a permit, and as a protected species, the number of permits is restricted to allow one small group of tourists to visit each gorilla family each day. It's a hideously early start as we have to be dressed and on the truck by 6am to head to the border to cross from Uganda into the DR Congo where we will be trekking.Just 45 minutes after we depart, we arrive at the border. This is followed by 2 hours of waiting around, Africa-style, which makes us wonder why we had to be there so early in the first place.Eventually things start to get underway and we are briefed by one of the guides. We are then divided into 4 smaller groups and dispatched to vehicles which will take us to 4 different locations, based on where the gorillas had last been seen the previous day. Our group sets off and drives for about an hour through lush green forest and small villages with mud huts. This is such a desperately poor country - most of these people are living without electricity and running water. There are young children everywhere and they run after our little van shouting for money and pens. We feel like celebrities! Once out of the van, there is a short walk through some farming properties to bring us to the edge of the forest where we stop to slap on some Deet. Its steamy in the forest, and pretty dense in parts, so we are lucky our trusty guide has a huge machette with which he can hack a path for us to get through. To find the gorillas as quickly as possible, the guide uses a walkie talkie to talk to the trackers who are near where the gorillas are.After about 2 hours, our guide stops and tells us all to be very quiet and to put our bags down as we are close to the gorillas. The only thing we were allowed to take with us is our cameras. We round a bend in the track, and next thing we know we are in a clearing and there they are - a whole family of gorillas! There must be at least 10 or 12 of them including a few baby ones. All the gorillas are just sitting there peacefully, and they don't seem too fazed by our presence. Everyone is stunned and not saying much other than whispering 'oh my god'. Once we recover from the initial shock of seeing them, the cameras start going crazy! Three baby gorillas start playing in the tree right next to us, swinging from branch to branch right over our heads. At one point the branch cames crashing down on top of us, complete with baby gorilla who scampers away back to his mum. The other gorillas just continue about their business; play fighting and sleeping. Their beauty is just astounding - at one point I'm so overwhelmed I feel my eyes brimming with tears!We all take turns having our photo taken with the gorillas, each person daring to go slightly closer than the one before but not so close as to scare them. Unfortunately there's not going to be any Diana Fossey scenes happening! In this photo I am smiling but as my back is turned, the only thing I can think about is what's going on behind me! Just after I have my photo taken, the Silverback decides to stand up, and oh my god is he massive! I hadn't even noticed him at first as he was sitting right down the back. Standing, he is at least 6 foot tall and as wide as 3 adult men.We all freeze as he walks within a metre right past us and out of the clearing. He pauses at one point to 'mate' with one the female gorillas. This ritual takes all of about 15 seconds, and then cool as you like, he continues on his way. Classic!The rest of the family obediently follow him and the guide tells us that they are probably trying to move away from us so that will be the end of our visit today. We're disappointed its all over so quickly, but very, very grateful just to have had the opportunity to see them up close and in their natural environment. On a high, we head back to the edge of the forest which only takes about 30 minutes. We are met by our vehicle, and after a beer, are transferred back to the border to passport control which is a simple affair consisting of two guys on chairs outside a run-down office.We arrive back at our campsite around 2pm and spend the rest of the afternoon chilling out with Nile beers and listening to music. It turns out that our group got lucky, as we were allocated a gorilla family that wasn't too far away. One of the groups had an 8 hour return drive and a really long trek and didn't get back to the campsite until about 10pm. As luck would have it, their 4WD ran out of petrol on the way back and they had to wait for another car to come and get them! Needless to say, they werent too impressed...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203702600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203702600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203702600/tpod.html Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:13:20 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

For those of you who are planning a trip to Kilimajaro, I thought you might be interested in my packing list. Essential stuff:* Good walking boots - I had Raichle and they were more than adequate* Thick and thin woolen socks x lots - very important, esp on summit night* 4 season sleeping bag - it really does get cold at night so dont skimp on this* Thermarest - some people hired mattresses which apparently were a bit smelly* Small pillow* Down Jacket with hood - I had a North Face Greenland Jacket which was pretty warm* Shorts x 1* Long trousers x 1* Short sleeve tops x 3 - dont take light colours, they get filthy* Fleece* Thermal long sleeve tops - I took 4 of varying thickness and wore all of them on summit night. Icebreaker woollen ones are good as they dont smell!* Thermal legs - good for sleeping in and on summit night* Track pants - to wear around camp* Trainers - to wear around camp* Camelbak - although even with hose insulation it still froze on summit night* Extra water bottle - you need to drink a minimum of 3 litres a day* Walking poles* Broad rimmed hat * Sunglasses* Wash cloth* Sunscreen* Balaclava and beanie - you really did need 2 hats on summit night* Ski gloves* Thinner gloves - for lower altitudes and to wear under ski gloves* Camera* Medications, blister treatments etc* Toilet paper x lots* Earplugs* Disinfectant hand wipes/gel* Basic toiletries - toothbrush/paste, soap - you wont have use for much else!Optional:* Ski trousers - you could probably get away with thermals, long trousers and windproof pants on top* Small towel* Sleeping bag liner - adds an extra layer of warmth* Neck scarf* Headscarf to wear when your hair gets too greasy!* DiaryWhat I took but didnt use:* Goretex rain jacket and trousers (it didnt rain once)* Chemical hand warmers* Book - I was always too tired to read!* Gaiters* iPod* Diamox - everyone had it with them, but only 2 in our group took it, and neither of them made it to the summitI packed it all in a 70L rucksack and had a 40L daypack with me too.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203555600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203555600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203555600/tpod.html Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:11:34 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

Today we get up earlier than normal as we want to arrive at Kibo Hut in good time (and plus I think our guides have figured out our group are quite slow walkers!).Its the usual breakfast, although today I pass on the porridge as I just cant face it. We set off about 7:30am, its a beautiful sunny day and everyone's feeling good. We've been very lucky with the weather so far - my waterproofs haven't come out of my pack once. The first part of the walk is fairly easy and soon the long path to Kibo Hut stretches out before us. It really doesn't look too far away and not that steep either - after all its only 300m higher than Mawenzi Tarn right?Oh how very wrong I was!! After the first couple of hours, sheer exhaustion sets in. My legs are heavy, every step becomes an effort and my head starts pounding again. It doesn't help that the Kili summit is right in front of us, and the closer we get, the steeper it looks. Are we really going up that tonight???I need to pee at least 6 times on the way to Kibo Hut - apparently this is a good sign as it means my body is acclimatising. By now all the girls are all pro's at squatting behind rocks.We finally arrive at Kibo Hut around 2pm, some 6 and a half hours after we set out. Kibo is quite a big campsite with a mixture of huts and tents to accommodate all the walkers from the other routes who also congregate here before the summit attempt. Like yesterday, I collapse into my tent exhausted - I honestly didn't think it would be this hard. Even upacking my bag is an effort and walking around the campsite leaves me breathless - how on earth am I going to make it to the summit??We're not allowed to rest for long as lunch is about to be served - tuna pasta which tastes pretty damn good. Everyone is absolutely shattered and there's not much chatter around the table. Most of the talk revolves around what we'll be wearing that night. After lunch we're allowed to lie down for a few hours and even though I cant sleep at all, I can feel the energy starting to flow back into my body. Eventually I feel strong enough to sit up and start sorting out my gear for that night.At 5:30pm we're called to dinner, even though we've just had lunch. No-one's really hungry but we all force down some food as we know what lies ahead. Dinner is a potato stew which tastes ok but the potatoes taste so dry in my mouth I can barely swallow them. After dinner, our guides brief us on the summit attempt so we know what to wear and what to take with us. By now its getting really cold and we're all wearing our down jackets even in the tent.We're all back in our tents by 6:30pm to try and get some rest, although I'm sure no-one's going to be able to sleep a wink. Its blowing a gale outside. I get up at 10:30pm to go to the toilet and its so cold I am fully expecting it to be snowing outside so am surprised when in fact its a perfectly clear night with a full moon.I get dressed, and put on nearly everything in my bag. On top I am wearing a short sleeve wool base layer, long sleeve polyester base layer, t-shirt, long sleeve micro fleece thermal, long sleeve thick wool thermal, windproof fleece jacket and down jacket. On the bottom I have thermal leggings and ski trousers. I have a beanie, balaclava and headtorch on my head and liner gloves plus heavy weight ski gloves on my hands.In my bag I pack windproof pants in case it starts raining or is super-cold, spare gloves, hand warmers, my camera, spare batteries for my camera, snacks and water. We're supposed to pack lightly but my damn camera weighs a tonne and I really dont want to leave it behind.About 11:30pm we gather in the mess tent for tea and biscuits. No-one's really saying much as we're all feeling apprehensive. At midnight our guides assemble us outside the tent, ready to head off....
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203472800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203472800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203472800/tpod.html Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:11:00 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

We are up at sunrise again today and the views of Kili are spectacular. Thankfully I've managed to get some sleep during the night and feel refreshed and not suffering from the altitude at all. Breakfast is the same as yesterday - and the porridge is still awful!We head off around 8:30am and the walking is thankfully not too difficult. We only have to walk for about 4 or 5 hours today. The vegetation is really starting to thin out now we can now see just how many other people are doing the same trek as us. There seems to be an endless stream of hikers and porters heading out from the camp, and Rongai is meant to be the 'quiet' route!! We continue walking and soon majestic Mawenzi comes into view. Mawenzi is one of the 3 peaks on Kilimanjaro. Looking at it, I start to worry about exactly how high we are going today as it looks very high! By this point it really feels like we've gained some altitude, and in fact we are now above the cloudline. The views are spectacular.Right throughout the morning I have been feeling pretty good, but as we get closer to camp I start to feel sick again - waves of nausea wash over me and my head feels like a pressure can. I drop to the back of the group and by the time we arrive at Mawenzi Tarn feel downright awful. Most of the group appear to be ok so I start to worry if altitude sickness is going to get the better of me. I collapse into my tent, but after only a few minutes we are called to lunch. When I first sit down at the table, my head feels like its going to explode, but after 5 minutes or so, it begins to subside. Lunch is soup and bread, followed by some a strange combination of some fried meatball things, chips and cheese - we dont mind though as its all delicious and we are starving.After lunch we're allowed to rest for a while in our tents before we head off on an acclimatisation walk. Each day we are supposed to 'climb high and sleep low' to help our bodies get used to the altitude. Its the last thing I feel like doing but know it needs to be done and will ultimately make me feel better.The campsite is actually very beautiful. Impressive Mawenzi looms above us and the campsite is positioned by a small lake (tarn). Its quite disturbing watching the porters drawing water from the lake knowing that's what will be going into our water bottles later, but I tell myself it must be ok as countless groups before us have done the same.Dinner is the usual soup and bread, followed by spaghetti with beans and pancakes for dessert. I try to eat as much as I can as it seems to make me feel better.I fall asleep at about 8pm, only to wake up a few hours later dying to pee. Its absolutely freezing outside and blowing a gale so I have to put all my clothes on including down jacket, gloves and beenie just to make the walk to the long-drops. Its nearly a full moon outside so the campsite is kinda eerie in the moonlight. When I get back to my tent I manage to sleep right through the night without incident.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203386400/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203386400/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1203386400/tpod.html Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:10:20 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

Around 6:30am we are awaken by our porters (well, to be honest I am already awake) who have a bowl of hot washing water for us, and some tea and coffee. I am delighted to discover they also have Milo and this will become my staple hot drink for the rest of the week. It seems no-one has really had slept much last night - the combination of intrepidation, unfamiliar environment and rocky beds has taken its toll.At breakfast we get our first taste of Kilimanjaro porridge. Now I love porridge, and reckon its pretty hard to get it wrong. So I'm not sure how they make Kilimanjaro porridge, but it sure tastes revolting! Having read so much about how important it is to keep eating and drinking while you are trekking up Kili, I try to force some down. By 8am we're all kitted up and ready to go, leaving the porters to pack up the camp. It's warm already so we set off in shorts and t-shirts. Predictably, those who keenly sunned themselves yesterday are now totally sunburned (haha) so needless to say, a few more people are wearing hats and sunscreen today....The path is quite steep from the outset so we head off very pole-pole today. The terrain is drier than yesterday but there's still plenty of trees and vegetation around. Kili looms ahead of us in the distance - she really does look so far way, but at least it gives us something to walk towards. Throughout the morning we take regular breaks to drink lots of water and eat the snacks we've been given. By the time we arrive at Second Cave for lunch, we've already been walking a good 4 hours and have worked up quite an appetite. I've already drunk the 2L of water in my Camelbak so am well on track to drinking the requisite 3L for the day.The porters quickly transform the area, setting up tables and chairs for all the groups. We note with amusement one of the 'posh' tour groups sitting next to us who have fancy chairs with backs and arms on them (we have camping stools) and are served up a lunch of fried chicken! Our lunch is a someone simpler affiar - a vegetarian meal of soup, bread, cheese and avocado salad, followed by fruit and tea-cake. Everything is delicious and we leave feeling satisfied, ready to hit the trail again.After lunch, the walking starts to get a lot tougher, and we get our first taste of what lies ahead. The guides warn us that we might start feeling the effects of altitude this afternoon as we go above 3,000m for the first time, and boy are they right. Walking up small hills suddenly seems a lot more difficult and I find myself geting out of breath quickly. It's also a really, really long way to the camp. We were expecting it to only take a couple of hours but it takes about 4 hours in the end. Every time we go over a ridge, another one looms in the distance. The group ends up dividing into 2, a faster one (which I only just manage to keep up with) and a slower group who trail about half an hour behind.When we eventually spot the mass of coloured tents at Kikelewa in the distance, our spirits are lifted, but by now, exhaustion is really setting in. Every step is an effort. By the time we get to the camp, it's almost 5pm and my head is pounding and I feel nauseous. Thankfully the porters have already set up our camp so we're able to lie down in our tents for a while. I can barely muster the effort to drag my rucksack inside my tent. After a quick rest, its time to head to the mess tent for some rejuvenating roasted peanuts and Milo which makes me feel a lot better. Eventually the second half of our group arrive and dinner is served. It's vegetable soup (again), followed by a chicken and vegetable stew with rice which is delicious. I try not to think about the fact the chicken has been unrefridgerated for a couple of days now.... The group demolishes everything and we're all in good spirits now we've recovered from the walk.Knackered, we head off to our tents about 8pm. I have to get up to pee 3 times before I go to sleep - the effects of the altitude and all the water I've been drinking are catching up with me. It's really cold tonight so I pray I dont have to get up during the night. I go to sleep in my thermals and socks and thankfully am toasty in my sleeping bag all night.I'm starting to worry about the next couple of days. I'd prepared myself to expect the worst on summit night, but honestly hadn't expected the walking on the days leading up to it to be this tough. Hopefully tomorrow wont be so bad....
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1218363900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1218363900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/travelling_jess/1/1218363900/tpod.html Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:09:25 -0400 Kilimanjaro via Rongai Route - February 2008

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kilimanjaro National Park, Tanzania

Finally, the first day of our trek has arrived, and I am up early to have what will be my last shower for almost a week. I feel somewhat distressed at the thought of not being able to wash my hair for a whole week. How on earth am I going to cope?!?After breakfast, the bag weighing formalities commence. When they're satisfied all our bags are within the 15kg limit, we all pile into 3 x 4WDs for the transfer to Rongai gate, a pleasant 2 hour drive through lush green forest and small villages. It's Sunday, so all the local villagers are out in the streets, dressed in their brightly-coloured-best and on their way to church. The number of young children is unbelievable - clearly birth control is not widely used here...  Once we arrive Rongai gate there's a bit of milling around as we wait for the 3rd vehicle (which has broken down) to turn up. Hey this is Africa, and you've gotta expect at least one breakdown right?  Charlotte and Emma are fascinated by the squat toilets and start taking lots of photos as they've never seen one before. Oh dear, I think they might be in for a bit of a shock on this trip...Once the third vehicle arrives, all the kit for the trip is laid out on the ground and divvied up amongst the porters.There's not only our personal luggage to carry, but everything we will use for the week - tents, chairs, cooking equipment, food, the lot. There is a team of around 20 porters and guides just to support our 12 person group! We only have to carry our daysack with essential gear like water, sunscreen and waterproofs.We are introduced to our guide from African Walking Company, Gerard. He's been to the top of Kilimanjaro over a 100 times so we feel assured we are in experienced hands.After a few group photos at the head of the trail, (on 12 cameras, each with its own nuances) we are finally on our way. It's a rather warm, sunny day, and in true British style, several members of the group walk sans-hat - one of the girls even rolling up her t-shirt to expose her stomach! Being an Aussie, and wiser to the ways of the sun, I wasn't going to make that mistake, and made sure I was sensibly lathered in sunscreen and wearing my hat at all times. Lets see who's still worshipping the sun tomorrow....Gerard introduces us to the concept of 'pole-pole' (pronounced 'polay-polay' and which means 'slowly, slowly'). In order to allow our bodies to acclimatise properly, we need to walk at a slow and steady pace all the way. It feels a bit like walking in slow motion at first, but as the days go by, I'm sure we'll come to appreciate it.The first part of the walk is through pine plantation, and at this level there are still a few farms and lots of kids and animals running around. After an hour or so, the pine plantation gives way to rainforest which is a relief as by now the sun is really beating down on us. We stop to eat our pre-packed lunches which consist of jam sandwiches (don't think I've eaten those since school...), chocolate, biscuits, an orange and mini banana. You don't want to be on the Atkins diet when you are climbing Kilimanjaro.After lunch, the porters (who set out quite some time after us) start to overtake our group, each carrying their allocated loads on their heads. The fitness of these guys is incredible!The walking for the rest of the day is fairly easy, although their are a few steeper uphill stretches as we approach the camp which get the heartrate going. We reach Simba Camp around 5pm and appear to be one of the last groups to arrive, and as such get last choice of camping spots - a nice steep section with lots of rocks! There's a surprisingly large number of people at the camp - at least 6 other groups, none of whom we've seen throughout the day. They must have set off at the crack of dawn.Initially there's a bit of panic as a couple of the tents and some of the bags havent turned up, but after a hunt around the campsite, eventually the missing items are found, and we are all allocated our tents. The porters bring each of us a bowl of warm water with which to wash ourselves before dinner. This will be as close to a shower as we will get for the next week! Our camp has a 'toilet tent' (also carried up), which in fact is just a bucket with a seat over it surrounded by a small tent to preserve one's modesty. No-one wants to be the first to use it, but eventually one of the girls gives it a go. Personally, I struggle to master the technique and end up using the (rather disgusting, but not as bad as I was imagining) long-drop toilet.As the sun goes down, the temperature drops dramtically and I need to dig out my fleece. In the distance we can see Kili's snow-capped peak and it glows a luminous pinky-orange as the sun sets. I take the first of what will be hundreds of photos of Kili over the next week....Soon we are summoned to the mess-tent for popcorn and tea. This is followed by soup with bread (it tastes stale already even though its only day 1), vegetable casserole with rice, and fresh mango for dessert. The food isn't bad, especially considering they've had to carry every ingredient and cooking utensil up the mountain with them.After dinner we all sit around chatting for a while and are briefed on the next day's walking. The porters fill up all our water bottles with freshly boiled water. This serves as a great hot water bottle to keep us warm in our sleeping bags. At about 9pm, everyone heads to their tents as we're all knackered and there's not much else to do.Given the steep, rocky pitch of our campsite, I spend the first hour or so trying to figure out how to stop sliding off my thermarest - the trick is to lie diagonally across the tent! Eventually I doze off but it turns out to be a rather sleepless night....
]]>