TravelStream™ news feed for member tonicastells on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/tonicastells en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:18:08 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258597278/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258597278/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258597278/tpod.html Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:18:08 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Valparaiso, Chile

Si Santiago era una ciutat grisa, Valparaiso es el color. Com canvien les coses amb un ma de pintura. La ciutat s'ha merescut l'entrada en la llista de monuments protegits per la Unesco gracies a aixo, malgrat que la majoria d'edificis en si no son gaire espectaculars, semblen mes aviat fragils i efimers, de fet molts llueixen parets de llauna, juntament amb la seva ubicacio a tocar del mar enmig de barrancs que fan el caminar una mica dificil si no fos pels ascensors que ajuden a pujar els carrers mes costeruts. Passejar per aquesta ciutat, es com fer-ho per un capitol de 'Cuentame lo que paso'. Sembla que siguis un figurant en un capitol de la serie que intenta retratar els darrers anys del franquisme. I es que Valparaiso te molt d'anacronic. La flota de trolebusos que no sembla que l'hagin canviat en 40 anys, els ascensors ronecs i vatustos amb clares senyals del pas del temps que semblen a punt de caure en qualsevol moment (de fet la meitat o be ha caigut o be esta en un periode 'indefinit' de manteniment), les tendes i comercos que semblen haver escapat de la tendencia generalitzada a la globalitzacio, la seva manera de vestir allunyada de la voragine de marques occidentals, aquests bigotets estil Pinochet que certes persones encara avui en dia es deixen creixer, ... No crec que duri gaire, i es una llastima, ja que fa la visita a aquesta ciutat encara mes fascinant.

Si cada pais te un heroi, a Xile aquest es Pablo Neruda (Allende te encara un caracter massa politic i d'esquerres per la mentalitat conservadora del pais). La visita a algun dels casa-museus del pais es obligada, i jo que al principi n'estava indecis, decideixo finalment visitar el 'xalet' que es va construir a Isla Negra. Com es nota que la principal font d'ingressos del poeta va ser la carrera de diplomatic cultural en diferents ambaixades i consulats, perque la seva ubicacio i grandaria son forca espectaculars i no a l'abast de qualsevol. Pel que fa a la decoracio, la trobo una mica carregada, kitsch i daliniana, i es fa dificil imaginar com trobava la inspiracio enmig de tant mascaro de proa i tanta parafernalia marinera.

***************************

If Santiago was a gray city, Valparaiso is a colorful one. The city has deserved to be enlisted in Unesco's heritage monuments list due to this, even though most of the buildings are not spectacular at all, but rather fragile and ephemeral, some of them with tin walls, and its unique location sandwitched between the Pacific Ocean and the hills. This makes strolling around the city a difficult one, but thanks to its elevators it is possible to by-pass the most strenuous climbs. The city has an anachronistic look, one feels like walking in a city back in the 70s: the fleet of trolebuses that has not been upgraded for the last 40 years, the old and rusty elevators dating from the beginning of the XX century, the shops that have escaped globalization, the way people dress far from being affected by Western brands, those mustaches Pinochet-style that still nowadays some people let themselves grow, ... I don't think it is going to last long, and it is a pity because it makes the visit to this city even more fascinating.

If each country has a hero, in Chile this is currently Pablo Neruda (Allende is still too political and too leftist for the conservative mind of the local population). The visit to one of its house-museums seems a must, and although I was a bit skeptical, I end up visiting the house he built in Isla Negra. From the visit, it is obvious that Neruda was benefiting from some other source of income than his poetry, as he was a cultural ambassador in many places during his life. Its decoration follows the more is more, is rather kitsch and gaudy, and I find it difficult to believe that he was able to find inspiration and concentration among so many maritime paraphernalia.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1259072131/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1259072131/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1259072131/tpod.html Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:17:55 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

La Serena, Chile

Arribo a La Serena despres de recorrer els mes de 700 quilometres que la separen de Valparaiso en autobus nocturn. Estic una mica cansat perque arribo a les 6 del mati, pero he de reconeixer que el transport en aquest pais esta a anys llum del que he utilitzat en la majoria de paisos que he visitat. Per una vegada, es un transport eficient, comode i d'una puntualitat suissa, es com prendre l'Orient Express de la carretera. Pero mes val no acostumar-s'hi gaire ja que en una setmana sere a Bolivia i haure de sobreviure a la seva tronada xarxa de transport.

Passo majoritariament el temps de la meva estada en aquesta tranquil.la ciutat a la seva platja de sorra daurada i d'aigua gelada i fent una visita a un observatori astronomic per la nit on, malgrat els nuvols, podem observar Jupiter i tres de les seves llunes, i sentir-nos per una vegada en la vida com un modern i modest Galileu.

***************************

I arrived at La Serena by night bus after covering the 700 km from Valparaiso. I am a bit tired as I get there at 6AM but I was able to sleep and relax as public transport in this country is wonderful, although expensive, and it is far better than the ones I used in most of my trip. For once, the transport is efficient, comfortable and punctual as in Switzerland. It is like riding the Orient Express on the road. But it is better not to get too used to it, as in a week I will be in Bolivia and I will have to face the crude reality of their old buses and bumpy roads.

I spend most of my time in this easygoing and relaxing town at its beach of golden sand and cold waters, and visiting an astronomic observatory during the night where, despite the clouds, we are able to spot Jupiter and three of its moons and feel once in a lifetime like a modern and modest Galileo.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1255264485/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1255264485/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1255264485/tpod.html Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:07:38 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Bikaner, Rajasthan, India

Soc a Bikaner mes que res per visitar el temple de les rates de Deshnok que esta a tocar d'aquesta ciutat. Es una escapada una mica 'freaky' pero ja que estic a la regio i tinc temps, decideixo fer-hi una ullada. Ja de per si les rates son unes bestioles que no inspiren gaire confianca i no son sinonim de netedat sino de tot el contrari, pero per alguna rao, segurament en algun moment la vaig llegir pero a hores d'ara ja l'he oblidada, els devots hindus d'aquest pais li han dedicat un temple. Jo m'imaginava que a l'entrar al temple veuria rates per tot arreu, que em costaria caminar sense trepitjar-ne alguna i haver de pagar la multa, i per sort, no es ben be aixi. Si que hi ha forca rates pero estan concentrades en algunes zones, i les que hi ha tenen un aspecte tan lamentable, la majoria son victimes de sarna, que acaben per generar encara mes repulsio. Es una mica estrany pensar que en un temple dedicat a un animal tinguin mes de la meitat de la poblacio malalta, pero be, suposo que el personal del temple deu anar massa atrafegat per a ocupar-se d'aquestes trivialitats. La visita es una mica llampec ja que passejar-se amb els peus descalcos per aquell terra tan brut amb restes de menjar i rates que se't creuen per tot arreu fa una mica d'angunia (les noies franceses que tinc davant no paren de xisclar, pobretes, i fan la visita en un temps record). Pero als devots locals, no els n'hi fa cap, i s'estiren pel terra, els hi donen de menjar i es consideren afortunats si els hi passen per sobre o veuen la unica rata blanca que se suposa que porta encara mes bona sort.

Afortunadament, Bikaner te quelcom mes que el temple de Deshnok. Visito el fort on s'allotjava el Maharaja local, i impressiona forca, tant per les dimensions colossals com per l'elaborada decoracio d'algunes de les cambres. I la ciutat compta tambe amb el seu conjunt de havelis ricament decorats, amb homes lluint meravellosos turbans i bigotis, amb dones vestides amb saris molt colorits, amb un bazar on venen de tot, amb alguns encantadors de serps, amb innombrables vaques que es passegen i fan les seves necessitats amb tota naturalitat. Molt en linia amb el que un espera quan viatja pel Rajastan. Respecte a les serps he de dir que les pobres cobres fan tanta o mes pena que les rates de Deshnok, tenen un aspecte molt desmillorat respecte al seu estat salvatge, i si la primera vegada impressionen i et vols mantenir a una distancia de seguretat prudencial, a la segona vegada que les veus doncs ja ni t'immutes ni que pugin al bus amb tu o et tombis despres de comprar un parell de papaies i te les trobi a escassament un pam del teu nas.

***********************

I go to Bikaner to visit the rat temple at Deshnok, a nearby city. Rats are not precisely the sort of animals one wants to have too close and they are not clean neither, but for whatever reason, hindus decided to build a temple to worship them. I thought there would be rats everywhere, that it would be difficult to walk without stepping on one and then facing the mandatory fine, but fortunately, it is not quite like that. There are some rats but they like to stay in some areas of the building, and the majority show a sick state, so they are even more repulsive. It is strange that in a place where they worship them, half of the population is sick and no one seems to care about this minor detail. I make a quick visit to the temple as I don't fancy walking around bare feed over food left overs or having a rat walking over me. Locals, however, have no problems with that and they even feed them, lay down and consider themselfs fortunate if one of these animals walks over them or if they spot the only white rat of the temple.

Fortunately, Bikaner has something more to offer than this temple. I visit the fort that was once the residence of the local Maharaja, and I admit it is quite an astonishing building of colossal dimensions with lavishly decorated rooms. And the city hosts as well some rich havelis, men with colorful turbans and big moustaches, women wearing colorful sarees, a bazar where they sell everything, some snake charmers, and endless amounts of cows walking and shitting peacefully. In line with what one expects to find in a city in Rajasthan. With respect to the snakes, I have to admit cobras show quite a poor look, and may be the first time they impress and one wants to keep a cautious distance, but the second time, you just don't care any more, even if they sit behind yours in a crammed local bus or they are just a feed away as you turn to walk away after buying a couple of papayas.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512136/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512136/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512136/tpod.html Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:03:16 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Easter Island, Chile

L'illa de Rapa Nui, o Illa de Pasqua tal i com la va batejar un navegant holandes del segle XVIII, es segons la guia local l'indret mes aillat del mon, a 4000 quilometres de Sud-America i a 3700 de Tahiti. No es d'estranyar que la poblacio local, fruit de l'arribada de gent de Tahiti o de Nova Zelanda, desenvolupessin una cultura molt caracteristica. El que en resta avui en dia, despres de la guerra civil que va decimar la poblacio i en va causar gairebe la desaparicio, i l'arribada de navegants occidentals, es en forma de Moais, les famoses estatues de l'illa, i les tradicions i llegendes locals, que consideraven l'illa el melic del mon. Aixo es suficient per atraure els turistes, avui en dia encara un nombre reduit pero que augmenta any rere any, i que disfruten d'una cultura tan especial. Jo a part d'aixo, disfruto tambe d'una pluja torrencial que fa la visita no tan agradable, i que limita una mica les possibles activitats que s'hi poden dur a terme. Plou tots els dies que soc a l'illa, i la visita als Moais sota la pluja resulta ser una mica deslluida, ja que, ja es mala sort, cada cop que arribem a una de les estatues, es posa a ploure a bots i barrals, i a correr, cames ajudeu-me, a refugiar-se dins el cotxe. El darrer dia sembla que la pluja dongui una treva, i recorro l'illa en bicicleta i faig cap als llocs que no havia pogut visitar els dies anteriors. Per sort quan soc a la pedrera, no plou, tan sols fa un vent huracanat i es possible passejar i admirar les desenes de Moais que en diferents estat de construccio es reuneixen en un mateix indret. La pluja pero no triga en tornar i acabo la jornada moll tant per fora, per la pluja, com per dins, de la suada i de dur roba impermeable que no permet la transpiracio. Abandono l'illa amb una sensacio de no haver-la pogut assaborir del tot i sabent que segurament no la tornare a visitar. Malgrat tot, la visita als Moais, sobretot els de la cantera, ha estat forca espectacular, i suposo que amb el pas del temps la meva memoria esborrara els episodis de pluja i es concentrara en recordar tan sols aquestes construccions.

**************************

Rapa Nui, or Easter Island as it was christened by a Dutch sailor in the XVIII century, is according to the local guide the most isolated place in the planet, at 4000 km from South America and 3700 from Tahiti. It comes as no surprise that the local population, coming from Tahiti or New Zealand centuries ago, developed a very peculiar and characteristic culture. What remains today, after the civil war that decimated the population and almost brought it to extinction and the arrival of Western sailors, are the famous Moais and the local legends and myths that consider the island the navel of the world. This is enough to attract tourists, nowadays still a reduced number but growing by a two digit number every year, that enjoy such a charismatic place. On top of that, I am able to enjoy as well some nice torrential rain episodes that make my visit not such a bright one and limit my possibilities to explore the island. It rains each and every single day and the visit to the Moais turns out to be less impressing than expected, as we have bad luck and each time we get out the car to visit some of these statues it starts raining cats and dogs and we have to run back and shelter inside the car. On the last day, the weather seems to hold and I am able to cycle around the island and visit the spots I wasn't able to visit the previous days. When I arrive at the quarry, I am lucky and it doesn't rain but hurricane-like wind gusts blow during my stay, but still I am able to stroll among dozens of Moais left in different levels of construction and admire such an spectacular place. But this calm episode doesn't last long and rain comes back again, and when I am back at the hostel I am all wet from the outside, due to the rain, and from the inside, due to the rain gear I am wearing that doesn't allow to perspire. I leave the island with the feeling I haven't enjoyed it completely and knowing that most likely I will never come back. However, the visit to the Moais, especially those in the quarry, is an amazing experience and I am lucky I had the opportunity to come here, and I guess that with time my mind will erase the nasty rain episodes and focus only on these constructions.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512088/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512088/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512088/tpod.html Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:02:25 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Santiago, Chile

Aterro a Santiago despres d'un viatge en avio de 16 hores des de Sydney amb parada tecnica a Auckland. Sortim a les 10 del mati de dijous 12 de novembre i arribem a les 12 del migdia del mateix dia. Un viatge tan llarg en el que es creua tot l'Ocea Pacific, pero en el qual pels afectes de creuar el meridia 180 que separa l'avui del dia anterior, tan sols es 'perden' dues hores. Per a aquells que embarquen a Auckland a les 3 de la tarda del mateix dia 12, aixo els sembla encara mes surrealista ja que aterren a Santiago tres hores abans de l'hora que havien despegat a Nova Zelanda. Malgrat tot, el meu cos nota les hores de vol, amb prou feines he pogut dormir ja que he acabat per fer de mainadera de dos nens d'un any que tenia als seients del costat, i perque m'he distret explorant les novetats musicals i cinematografiques del sistema d'entreteniment d'a bord. No es d'estranyar que la meva visita a Santiago sigui forca reduida i curta. Camino pels carrers que semblo un zombie, i amb tres hores ho liquido tot, a les sis soc de nou a l'alberg i a quarts de set caig mort al llit, d'on m'aixequen a mitjanit despres que es dispari l'alarma d'incendi i haguem de sortir precipitadament tots de l'alberg. Per sort, no ha arribat la sang al riu, tan sols s'han cremat uns cables de recepcio, a escassos cinc metres de la meva habitacio. El breu record que tinc de la capital xilena es el d'una ciutat una mica trista, a on encara hi pesa el record de la dictadura en forma d'una petina melancolica, grisa que cobreix els edificis, alguns d'ells, sobretot els publics que allotgen els ministeris, semblen mes aviat bunkers a l'espera de l'arribada dels manifestants, els cocktails molotov, els carros de combat, les bales de goma i les bombes de fum.

***********************

I land in Santiago after a 16-hours flight from Sydney with a technical stop in Auckland. The plane takes off at 10 in the morning of November 12th and lands at midday of the same day. Such a long trip crossing the Pacific Ocean, but due to the effects of crossing the 180 degrees meridian that separates today from the day before, we only 'loose' a couple of hours. For those boarding in Auckland at 3 in the afternoon, it is even more surrealist as they land in Santiago three hours before the time they took off from New Zealand. One can trick the wrist watch, but however, my body feels the long hours spent inside the plane where I barely slept as I had to babysit a couple of 1-year old babies sitting next to me and as I was eager to explore the music and movies available in the on-board entertainment system. It comes as no surprise that my visit to Santiago turns out to be a rather short one. I walk like a zombie through the streets not appreciating much of what's surrounding me, and in three hours I called it a day and head back to the hostel by 6 in the afternoon, where I soon fall sleep to be waken up just after midnight by the fire alarm. Luckily, we all survive, only some cables at the reception, just 5 meters away from my room, have burned. My impression of the Chilean capital after such a brief visit is of a sad city, where the dictatorship atmosphere has not totally disappeared and buildings are covered in a gray mood and some of them, especially those that host government offices, look like bunkers waiting for demonstrators, Molotov cocktails and police riots to appear.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512040/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512040/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258512040/tpod.html Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:01:12 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

Tan sols son vint hores de vol les que separen Kathmandu de Sydney, pero sembla mes aviat que la distancia, en termes temporals, hauria de ser molt mes gran, perque les realitats d'aquests dos paisos disten anys llum. Deixo enrere el caos que m'ha acompanyat en els darrers 6 mesos de viatge per trobar-me amb una ciutat ordenada, amb un transport public eficient, sense gaires problemes de transit ni d'aigua potable o de menjar, ... Tot un contrast. De fet, he decidit allargar la meva estada en aquesta ciutat per descansar una mica i recuperar una mica de pes, fet que crec que no sera gaire dificil ja que despres de molt mesos es possible avistar els primers obesos, i una simple passejada per King Street ofereix al passejant totes les temptacions (gelats, formatges, vins, ...) que semblaven mes esquives que un unicorn durant la meva estada a Asia.

Sydney es una ciutat volcada al mar gracies a la seva ubicacio en una exuberant i agraida badia i al seu clima temperat que permet als seus habitants realitzar tot tipus d'activitats esportives: surf, vela, kayak, jogging, ... Malgrat ser una ciutat de mes de 4 milions d'habitants, el caracter anglosaxo de la poblacio local ha ajudat a construir una ciutat ordenada, amb forca parcs publics (el jardi botanic es senzillament espectacular), que ha sabut protegir les platges de Manly, Brontee i Brondi de l'especulacio urbanistica i integrar-les adequadament a la ciutat (tot al contrari del Mediterrani), amb alguns exemples de bona arquitectura de principis del segle XX, algun que altre gratacel i dos construccions iconiques: el pont Victoria sobre la badia i l'edifici de l'opera (aquest darrer edifici es espectacular per fora pero mes esparta que una esglesia protestant per dins). Es una ciutat cosmopolita, relaxada, amb gent volcada a viure una vida hedonista, amb una notrida agenda de concerts i d'activitats a l'aire lliure, una minsa oferta cultural, una destacada presencia d'asiatics i una gastronomia local mes propera a la tailandesa o la vietnamita. El resultat es un bon lloc per treballar i viure una bona temporada, l'unic problema es que esta allunyada de qualsevol altra forma de civilitzacio.

M'allotjo al barri de Newtown, a tocar de King Street, que pel que vaig llegir quan vaig fer la reserva es el barri 'grunge' i 'modernillo' de la ciutat. I ho puc confirmar. Passejar-se per aquest carrer ofereix la possibilitat de veure exemplars de qualsevol de les tribus urbanes que poblen Sydney, amb excel.lents exemples de neo-punks a la Sid Vicious, modernes orteres vestides com als anys 80 a la Lady Gaga o piercejats a la Hellraiser. Pero un cop se surt d'aquest carrer i un es passeja per altres barris, es detecta que l'estetica que domina es la surfera (i no es d'extranyar) pels nois, i les noies, malauradament, no han sabut despendre's encara del tiranic lligam amb la cultura anglosaxona i llueixen uns vestits que semblen que surtin del 'cotillon' de cap d'any i calcen uns stilettos de vertigen.

**************************

Sydney and Kathmandu are only 20-hours by flight apart, but these two realities seem to belong to totally different galaxies. I leave behind the chaos that has been part of my daily routine for the last 6 months and embrace a city with a proper urban planning, an efficient public transport network, no major traffic problems, mild pollution and easy access to potable water and food. What a contrast! In fact, I have decided to make my stay in this city longer in order to relax for a while and win a bit of weight, fact that it is not going to be very difficult as after many, many months I am able to spot the first obese people and a short stroll along King Street offers the visitor all sort of gastronomic temptations (ice creams, cheese, wine, ...) that seem more elusive than an unicorn during my stay in Asia.

The city and its citizens benefit from an extraordinary location in an amazing bay and from a temperate climate, which makes the practice of outdoors sports (surfing, sailing, kayaking, jogging, ...) almost a mandatory ritual. Despite the fact of being a city of 4 millions, the English character of the local population has helped to build a city that still seems to be under control, with many public gardens (the Botanical Gardens are just stunning and spectacular, a must for everyone coming here), that has been able to preserve, protect and respect the beaches of Manly, Brontee and Brondi from real-state speculators (totally opposite from what has happened in the Mediterranean), with some good examples of early XX century architecture, few skyscrapers and two iconic constructions: Victoria bridge over the bay and the Opera building (this last building is just amazing from the outside but more spartan than a Lutheran church from the inside). It is a cosmopolitan city, with relaxed and hedonist people, with a huge list of concerts and open-air activities, a rather thin cultural offer, a rather huge Asian population and a local gastronomy closer to Thai and Vietnamese. The outcome is a good place to work and live for a while, if it was not that is so far apart from any other form of civilization.

I am staying in Newtown, that according to what I read when I booked my room is the 'grunge' neighborhood. And I can confirm it. A stroll along King Street offers you the possibility to spot some really good examples of the different urban tribes that inhabit the city: neo-punks a la Sid Vicious, modern girls wearing like in the 80s a la Lady Gaga or pierced a la Hellraiser. Nevertheless, when one visits the other areas, one realizes that Sydney's own aesthetic is the surfer one for the boys, whereas as girls seem to be still tied up to old English conventions and dress with cocktail dresses and walked on impossible stilettos.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258511973/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258511973/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1258511973/tpod.html Tue, 24 Nov 2009 12:00:08 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Kathmandu, Nepal

Darrer capitol de la meva estada en el continent asiatic abans de prendre un vol i canviar de ciutat, de pais, de continent i d'hemisferi. Son unes jornades una mica incomodes ja que despres de passar les darreres 3 setmanes caminant per les muntanyes, baixant per un riu o fent un safari, tornar a la civilitzacio, i mes si es fa a Kathmandu, es una mica dur. Suposo que despres d'haver passat un parell de mesos a l'India, ja tinc el cos avesat a tant de caos, contaminacio i soroll, i no em costa gaire acostumar-me a la nova realitat, i mes sabent que en uns dies abandono tot aixo i faig cap a Sydney, a on m'espera una ciutat bastant mes ordenada. Per a aquells que no porten tan de temps viatjant, o que no coneixen l'India, aquesta ciutat els resulta miserable i compren el bitllet de sortida tan aviat com poden. Pero si un aconsegueix tolerar el caos que es respira per tot arreu, Kathmandu t'ofereix la possibilitat de fer un munt de coses tant a la mateixa ciutat com en els poblets i valls que l'envolten. La regio es caracteritza per haver desenvolupat una arquitectura molt peculiar i caracteristica que la distingeix forca de les arquitectures veines ja siguin la hindu, la tibetana o la xinesa. Passejar-se pel casc antic ja sigui de Kathmandu, de Patan, de Bhaktapur o de Bungamati, que han canviat poc des de la seva construccio ja fa un parell o tres de segles, i malgrat la invasio de motos, rickshaws i turistes, permet respirar l'atmosfera que es deuria desprendre en ple epogeu dels pobles newar. Si es fuig de la capital, es pot apreciar el dia a dia dels vilatans, poc alterat encara pel pas del temps i l'arribada d'extrangers carregats amb cameres fotografiques digitals, que durant la meva visita estan ocupats secant o batent l'arros o duent a terme rituals religiosos incomprensibles, amb molt de color i acompanyats de musica tradicional. La regio allotja bona part dels refugiats tibetans del pais, i es possible visitar algun monestir o pagoda tibetana que com sempre resulten ser forca mes interessants que els temples hindus, que malgrat tot continuen sent majoria en aquest pais. La millor pagoda es la de Gokarna (a on sovint venen les expedicions d'alpinistes per demanar proteccio durant l'ascens i descens als mitics cims del pais) que s'omple de refugiats tibetans a ultima hora de la tarda (es detecta la presencia d'algun que altre forani que ha abracat la religio budista) que com mana la tradicio, duen a terme les pregaries i passen el rosari mentre donen voltes (sempre en el sentit de les agulles del rellotge) al voltant de la pagoda.

**************************

Last chapter of my stay in Asia before taking a plane and changing city, country, continent and hemisphere. These are rather uncomfortable days as after spending three weeks hiking in the mountains followed by a couple of days rafting and a safari, going back to civilization, and even worst if it is doing so in Kathmandu, is quite a shock. But I guess that after spending a couple of months in India, my body is used to the chaos, pollution and noise, and I doesn't take me long before I get used to the new reality, moreover, knowing that in a few days I leave all this behind and head to Sydney, a far less chaotic city. For those who haven't been traveling for so long, or that still have not set food in India, this city seems to them unbearable and buy an outbound ticket as soon as they can. But if one is able to tolerate the chaos perspiring from this city, Kathmandu offers the chance to visit plenty of things in the same city and in the surrounding villages and valleys. The region characteristic architecture is quite peculiar and different from its neighbors hindu, tibetan and Chinese architectures. A visit to the ancient parts of Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur or Bungamati, which have little changed since their construction a couple of centuries ago, and despite the invasion of scooters, rickshaws and tourists, rewards the visitor with the chance to enjoy the atmosphere of the former Newar culture and society. If one leaves the capital and heads to the surrounding villages, it is still possible to glimpse the daily routine of the local people, almost unaltered despite the pass of time and the visit of hordes of tourists carrying their digital cameras, busy in this time of the year with the rice harvest or performing some sort of religious ritual, which to foreigners seem always incomprehensible although fascinating because of their colour and music. The region hosts as well many Tibetan refugees and it is possible to visit some of their monasteries and pagodas, which are by far more interesting than the Hindu temples that are nevertheless the majority. The best pagoda is in Gokarna (where most of Alpine expeditions head to in the search of protection for a lucky return) that gets very busy in the late afternoon with pilgrims that perform the daily ritual of praying while walking, clockwise, around the building.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257409876/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257409876/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257409876/tpod.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:50:15 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Sauraha, Nepal

El Parc Nacional de Chitwan es una de les excursions que figuren en qualsevol programa, organitzat o per lliure, d'aquells que visiten Nepal. L'atraccio principal es poder fer un safari sobre elefants per avistar rinoceronts, i si es te sort, cal tenir molta i molta sort i encara mes, molt de temps, algun tigre o leopard. Jo en tinc forca ganes pero tan bon punt arribo a Chitwan que em trobo amb dues noies israelianes amb qui vaig fer part del recorregut dels Annapurnes que em relaten la seva experiencia al parc, i la seva impressio general no sembla gaire afalagadora. He de reconeixer que les seves previsions tan poc optimistes es compleixen si fa o no fa en cada una de les activitats que duc a terme. Baixar el riu en canoa resulta ser una mica tedios i monoton si be avistem quatre ocells i tres cocodrils. El trek per la jungla que el segueix es bastant mes docil del que caldria esperar, tal vegada millor aixi ja que no se com hagues reaccionat en cas de trobar-me davant per davant d'un rinoceront, d'un tigre o d'un os bru. El bany amb elefants, amb els excrements flotant al voltant, es forca simpatic encara que curt pero el meu paquiderm llueix un piercing a l'orella de la grandaria d'un puny del garfi que utilitzen els instructors per fer que l'animal obeixi les seves ordres. El 'safari' en elefant per avistar rinoceronts, n'avistem tres a part d'un cervol, no esta malament encara que el nombre d'animals retratats, altres que no siguin humans, es una mica minso. Son un parell d'hores d'estar sentat en una plataforma sobre una pobra bestia que no para de bellugar-se, al final acabes una mica marejat, amb un conductor amb pocs escrupols que no para d'engegar-li cops al cap amb un basto perque avanci en la bona diversio. Sobre la nit cultural en la que presencio les dances tradicionals no en puc dir gaire cosa ja que em passo la gairebe totalitat del programa dormint, i aixo que els bancs de fusta no hi ajuden gaire. En definitiva, a part de ser una activitat organitzada (com odio que em diguin quant de temps disposo per menjar), el resultat al meu parer es una mica desangelat. Hi ha pero gent que en surt forca contenta. Sobre gustos no hi ha res escrit.

*****************

Chitwan NP is one of the must-see spots in Nepal, regardless whether you backpack or come here in an organized tour. The principal attraction here is to spot one-horn rhinos while sitting on top of an elephant, and if you are lucky, and I mean you have to be really, really lucky and with plenty of time, a tiger or a leopard. I get there with a good mood and sort of enthusiastic to do this activity, but this doesn't last long, as I met a couple of Israeli girls I walked with in the Annapurnas that narrate me their disappointment with the whole program. I have to admit that their not so optimistic comments end up becoming a reality. Descending the river in a wooden canoe results in a tedious and monotonous activity where we are lucky to spot four kind of birds and three crocodiles. The following activity, the jungle trek, is more docile than I expected, and may be better because I don't know how I would have reacted in case of encountering a wild animal such as a rhino, tiger or brown bear. The bath with the elephants is quite nice, in spite of being rather short and having to share my swim with lots of elephant stools floating around us, but my pachyderm has an ear piercing the size of a fist from the hook used by the instructor to force the animal to obey his orders. The elephant 'safari' is not bad although the list and number of animals we are able to see, three rhinos and one deer, is rather thin. It is a two-hours long activity where one uncomfortably sits on a platform sitting on top of an elephant that cannot stay still a single moment with a driver bashing the animal with a stick in order to go in the right direction. I can't say much regarding the cultural night where I witness some traditional dances, as I spent almost the entire event sleeping, despite the uncomfortable wooden pew. Overall, on top of being an organized activity (I hate people telling me how much time I have for lunch), the result is in my opinion rather poor. However, there are people leaving the park with an enthusiastic feeling.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257409077/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257409077/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257409077/tpod.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:48:35 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Pokhara, Nepal

Com que no acabo de sentir-me amb forces per fer cap activitat fisica considerable, ni tampoc per fer de turista que encara que no ho sembli requereix estar bastant en forma, decideixo apuntar-me a baixar el riu Seti en rafting. Son un parell de dies en els que si ve hem de remar una mica quan arribem a una zona una mica moguda, val a dir que ens passem la major part del temps sense fer gaire cosa o banyant-nos en les aigues d'aquest riu. Es un rafting amb algunes zones amb rapids de classe III - IV en les que sembla que el bot acabara donant la volta i els que anem a sobre dins l'aigua, pero anem tan carregats, a part dels 6 estrangers i dels 2 instructors portem tambe tot el material d'acampada i el menjar, que es impossible que aixo tombi facilment. Despres de l'ensurt inicial, la noia polonesa que tinc sentada al costat xiscla cada cop que entra aigua al bot, en volem mes i mes. Aquest tipus d'experiencies sempre es fan una mica curtes, i surts d'elles amb ganes d'apuntar-te de nou a fer un altre rafting de categoria superior. L'experiencia de fer nit en una de les incomptables platges de sorra blanca, talment com si fossim al sud-est asiatic tan sols hi falten els cocoters, amb els instructors ara reciclats a cuiners professionals, fent-la petar a la vora d'un improvisat foc i dormir altre cop sota el cel estrellat del Nepal es immillorable.

****************

As I am not completely recovered from the strenuous walk around the Annapurnas nor I feel like visiting anything as it requires, believe or not, quite a lot of effort, I sign up for a two days rafting down the Seti river. It is quite a peaceful activity. We have to row from time to time when we encounter some rapids, but I have to confess that most of the time is spent doing nothing at all or swimming around the boat. It is a rafting of class III - IV that in some areas one feels the boat is going to flip over and everyone on board thrown to the wild waters, but we are so heavily loaded, six Westerns plus two instructors plus all the material to camp overnight and all the food, that it is almost impossible for this to happen. After some initial panic moments, the Polish girl sitting next to me shouts every time water gets inside the boat, we want more and more. It is impossible to calm down our insatiable craving for rapids, and once the rafting is finished you are left considering signing up for another and more difficult one as soon as you are back in Pokhara. The experience of camping overnight on one of the white sandy beaches that populate the river bends, it feels like south-east Asia but without coconut palm tress, with the instructors recycled to professional cooks, chatting around a bonfire and sleeping under a canopy of stars is unbeatable.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257410243/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257410243/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tonicastells/2/1257410243/tpod.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:47:04 -0500 Einmal rund um die Welt

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Pokhara, Nepal

Despres de tants dies de trek, no tinc prou energies per explorar el que hi ha a Pokhara i als seus voltants, aixi que decideixo gandulejar una mica i apuntar-me a fer un vol tandem en parapent que no requereix gaire esforc. Estic una mica neguitos al moment d'iniciar el vol, i els nervis no m'abandonaran al llarg dels 60 minuts que dura l'experiencia. Despres de tants dies caminant tinc la certesa que l'home es un animal que esta millor adaptat per caminar sobre les seves dues extremitats que per fer acrobacies a l'aire, per molt que l'instructor que tinc al meu darrere m'intenti convencer del contrari. I es que durant el vol les panoramiques sobre la vall de Pokhara i del massis dels Annapurnes son espectaculars, pero se'm fa un nus al coll cada cop que prenem una corrent termica per pujar d'altura o topem amb una zona de turbulencies. Els voltors i les aligues que volen al costat nostre, hi ha moments que els tenim a pocs metres, semblen que surin placidament i sense esforc, mentre que maniobrar el parapent amb el vent que bufa a aquelles alcades fa posar la pell de gallina quan no fa regirar l'estomac. Es sens dubte una experiencia increible, pero en surto poc ansios de tornar a repetirl-la.

******************

After so many days trekking, I have my energy decimated to a point that I don't feel like exploring Pokhara and its surroundings, but to chill out for one day so I end up signing up for a tandem paragliding flight that requires little effort on my side. I am a bit nervous when we take off, and this uneasiness will last 60 minutes until we finally land. After so many days walking, I am certain that men evolved to walk on their two legs rather than performing acrobatics in the air, despite the comments of the instructor trying to convince me otherwise. During the flight, the views over Pokhara valley and the Annapurnas range are breathtaking, but I fear my heart beat will stop every time we take a thermal to increase our altitude or hit an area of turbulences. The voltours and eagles, some of them scarcely flying just a few meters from us, seem to have no problem with this and fly peacefully and nonchalantly, whereas maneuvering the paraglide with the hurricane-like wind gusts that are blowing at such an altitude is quite a dangerous experience to me and might upset one's stomach easily. It is indeed an incredible experience, but I think I don't need to repeat it again for a long while.

]]>