TravelStream™ news feed for member tombuttle on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/tombuttle en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Fri, 09 Oct 2009 15:47:15 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1255115196/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1255115196/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1255115196/tpod.html Fri, 09 Oct 2009 15:47:15 -0400 2009 Yellowknife and back

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Mississauga, Ontario, Canada



Big Bird’s summer travel letter was “R” for:
- Ravens (nary a crow),
- Roses (wild ones even north of Alberta),
- Rivers (mostly raging and soothing to camp near) and
- Rocks (all shapes and colours).

Riding Mountain, the first visited National Park (NP), was memorable for the number of bears encountered, including a mother with triplets, plus the cold weather; our solar shower became a block of ice and snow covered the tent. On the plus side, the Whirlpool Lake picnic shelter with cook stove and free firewood was a nice warm place to catch up on my reading. Also, the small songbirds, like the Redstart and Barn Swallows, were nice to have flitting around the stream and picnic shelter.

Prince Albert NP had great kayaking, camping and tons of beautiful birds; especially the nesting Loon, numerous White Pelicans and espying my first Western Tanager. The kayak-camping trip to Grey Owl’s cabin (and holding his autographed paddle) was one of the whole trip’s highlights.

From Saskatchewan, it was still quite a drive, on many gravel roads, to reach Wood Buffalo NP. Even though we were well below the Arctic Circle, it is neat having midnight sun. Seeing stampeding Bison, a Great Grey Owl and a Wolf were also sights to remember, along with kayaking on the silt laden Peace River.

The Ingraham Trail, northeast of Yellowknife, was definitely the most memorable area on this trip and I hope to return there sometime soon. The kayak-camping trip from Reid Lake to TomB Lake (a place that I obviously named) via a small stream over beaver dams and up rapids was awesome; plus it included finding a caribou jaw (now have a complete set of Moose, Elk and Deer). The water in the NorthWest Territories (NWT) is so clear that even the government confirms that it can be drunk directly from any river or lake. Due to the wayward return trip, I have now driven on every road in NWT, proudly own a “Yellowknife River” sign (obtained legally) and also got to see a Lynx near the Nahanni Butte.

The road to Jasper NP was an adventure unto itself and gave us many nights of free camping and hiking in the Willmore Wilderness plus snuggled up to the Muskeg River. Rock Lake was also a great kayak trek, allowing us to paddle through the Willmore Wilderness into Jasper NP.

Nearly all our camping in Jasper NP was along the milky coloured Athabasca River. Surviving the storm at Big Bend in a little tent was incredible; seeing the dented van after returning from five days hiking was also quite a shock. Also got to see an endangered species -- the Western Toad. Camped near the Columbia Icefield where it snowed both nights (generates its own weather) before getting the van’s windshield replaced. Although the hiking in Banff NP was very scenic, the park seemed too “posh” when compared to the ruggedness of Jasper NP (obviously my preference).

Waterton NP, where the “Prairies meet the Mountains” was a small gem -- the hiking, especially along the Akamina Ridge overlooking Wall Lake was awesome. Too bad that the wind was always blowing which stopped Erik the kayak from being launched. Watching Elk rutting with their bugling was also pretty neat.

Finally, crossing US Glacier NP via Going-to-the-Sun-Road was really impressive (assuming one likes heights). In all, from June to October we camped in fifty different campsites -- all I need now is a replacement tent.



Lessons Learned
- Watch where you park while hiking - trees do fall.
- Random (user maintained, wilderness) camping is cheap and has many great campsites near rivers.
- US National Forest are the best alternative for dog owners.
- Keep windows closed and fan (or air-conditioner) on while driving on gravel roads.
- Eureka almost dead but Xmas is coming (see new tent specifications).
- Birch bark is handy to have in your backpack for starting fires (especially where the birch is non-existent - lots of western and northern Canada).
- Bug jackets are mandatory (especially for Black flies) else paddle to small islands for escape.



Visited National Parks by Size
Wood Buffalo 44,807 km2 (17,300 mi²)
Jasper 10,878 km² (4200 mi²)
Banff 6,641 km² (2,564 mi²)
US Glacier 4,101 km² (1,584 mi² )
Prince Albert 3,875 km² (1496 mi² )
Riding Mountain 2,973 km² (1145 mi²)
Waterton 505 km² (195 mi²)



New Tent Specifications -- Please email me brands and/or update list:

Mandatory
- 3+ people (I like room to stretch)
- Free standing
- Full fly
- Footprint
- Good air circulation
- Kneel in tent without touching roof
- High quality

Highly Desirable
- No rain in tent on entry
- Good vestibule(s)
- Strong and relatively light

Nice to Have
- Side views on nice nights
- Tent clips to poles (versus threading through)
- Fly erected before tent (rare to find)
- 4-season (3-season still acceptable)
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Presque Isle, Wisconsin, United States

Once one knows that you are heading back, the adventure wanes somewhat. However, the power of observation from my van chair viewing through a brand new windshield (read clean) is still fun.

Montana is a huge long state that touches the border of British Columbia, all of Alberta and a good piece of Saskatchewan -- basically an entire day‘s drive. From the west. It starts with mountains, trees and fast flowing rivers then becomes rolling hills (some look like speed bumpy things that would be great for dirt bikes). The Blackfeet reservation is huge. Passed a long ridge that had more than a thousand windmills -- a pretty impressive sight from an engineering perspective. Saw many herds of beautiful Pronghorns plus a few unidentified (since I had never seen them before) large sandy coloured hawks with black wingtips. This state also had more horses than cattle -- I assume they have been shipped to feed-lots and our bellies. Second-hand stores here have a humungous number of jeans but nary a jean jacket. Gas was US$2.69 a US gallon -- obviously much cheaper than our over-taxed Canadian fuel which helps support our health-care. Lastly, this state had great coffee, especially from Montana Traders.

North Dakota was mainly rolling hills. Weird that Highway #2 across this state is an almost unused four-lane divided road. We also started seeing trees in the small river valleys.

In Minnesota, fall colours are starting to appear. Also, they are building a pipeline (Canadian natural gas?) across the state which made it almost impossible finding an inexpensive motel room. Picked up a gallon refill of beer (Oatmeal stout) in Duluth to be used at the Minnesota-Greenbay football game -- the Vikings won.

Wisconsin and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula were wet and cold most of the time but the fall colours are beautiful. After a couple weeks of luxury in the pop-up, I am now heading back to Toronto to get the van fixed (or perhaps written off if I’m lucky).

Tidbits:

- Bumper sticker: Recession 101 - Self-worth beats net-worth.
- US motels are more reasonably priced than Canadian equivalents.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1254155388/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1254155388/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1254155388/tpod.html Mon, 28 Sep 2009 12:45:46 -0400 2009 Yellowknife and back

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Apgar, Montana, United States

Left Waterton heading for the border which happens to open at 09:00 - we were fifth in line. No duty free in the middle of nowhere but I did manage to get our remaining firewood across the border by stating with authority that it had no bark and after a quick private consultation we breezed across the border with a Banff jerry-rigged piece of wood with bark on the roof holding up Erik the kayak.

Our first introduction to US Glacier National Park (NB: US used so as not to be confused with BC’s Glacier NP) was a twelve mile dead-end road directing us to Many Glacier with a lake plus dam and many gorgeous mountains with some small glaciers attached. We did, however, get to view a Grizzly at close range (let me know if it is just a large cinnamon Black Bear).

Our next foray was to visit one of the park’s information centres and get the never ending supplies in St Mary. However, the fun part was beginning when we started up the Going-to-the-Sun-Road which was built in 1932 and was set to close for the season the next day (in fact, due to snow the next day, we were one of the last to complete the run this year). The road offers great views to those that are unafraid of heights and the summit is at Logan Pass the continental divide at 2,025 metres (6,646 feet).

After a picnic on Lake MacDonald at a closed picnic area, we continued on to the Apgar campground where we settled in for two nights (typical cookie cutter lots) since it was the only open west side spot. Although in retrospect, while touring a ten-plus year forest fire area in the park and looping back through the Flathead National Forest, we found a beautiful campground with sites on the banks of the Flathead River. In the US, National Forests allow dogs on (verbal) leashes in the woods -- National Parks do not. It dropped below freezing the first night and snow magically appeared on the higher mountains the next day.

Then horror, while we were packing Bogie cried/yelped while chasing a squirrel up a tree and came back to us on three legs. We were lucky finding a good vet that said he likely had a bad sprain on his right front leg (up to two weeks of being a gimp - if longer x-ray then operate) -- good news, he inspected the possible ACL injury and said it is more likely just a joint rubbing (buy a year supply of people pills at Walmart for $40). Hopefully our trip west will keep Bogie somewhat quiet (although he still herds and spins on three legs at every opportunity).

Visited a Glacier NP Ranger friend of Cindy’s at her end of year party (most seasonal employees released shortly after Labour Day) and used her backyard as our last different official campsite -- number forty-nine (an even fifty if one includes the Wisconsin pop-up camper - I don’t). The next few days will see us drifting west -- more updates and flashbacks will be posted soon.

Tidbit:
- US Glacier National Park is very large -- I will do size comparisons of all the visited National Parks once I have time and a good internet connection.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1254152826/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1254152826/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/tombuttle/10/1254152826/tpod.html Mon, 28 Sep 2009 12:29:24 -0400 2009 Yellowknife and back

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Waterton Lakes National Park, Alberta, Canada

Leaving Banff early on Saturday, we dropped into Canmore for more reasonably priced supplies before exploring the Kananaskas Valley. This is a great car ride along the bottom half of Highway #40 (top half explored south of Grand Prairie to Hinton) which eventually turns into a narrow, winding gravel road.

Ended up at Oldman River Provincial Park; camped next to rapids in this beautiful valley. In fact, it was so peaceful and pretty, we stayed for two nights and had nice fires with glittering stars. Bogie caught his first ever Cutthroat Trout using a fly - too bad it was a catch and release river since it was the perfect pan size. Also got to see my first ever Dipper; a bird that can play in the rapids and swim underwater, if needed, to catch its meals.

Up early the next day, broke camp and headed for Waterton National Park - “where the Prairies meet the Mountains.” This Canadian National Park adjoins the US Glacier National Park and is jointly known as the Peace Park. Funny that the main campground in Waterton (all other campgrounds closed) had no campfire rings -- glad the picnic shelters had wood stoves to BBQ our meals. Saw lots of game (Mule deer, bears) and witnessed over three different nights Elk bugling and rutting (plus the spoils of victory) - an interesting way to keep a harem of females happy. Also toured Red Rock Canyon which had a great display of the red layers of rock present throughout the mountains in this part of the Rockies and hiked along Waterton Lake to Bertha Falls.

Using a national park trail, we hiked to Akamina Creek campground in BC’s Akamina--Kishinena Provincial Park for two nights. From here we explored the Wall Lake area (a Pink Floyd concert would be great here), where I saw my first wild Mountain Goats at a long distance high up on the cliff walls. Also saw a huge, magnificent Golden Eagle soaring and numerous Spruce Grouse (aka Fool Hen since you can kill them with a stick or rock). Not only was this a fantastic campground which we had all to ourselves, the design was terrific from a bear perspective with a completely separate cooking/living area well away from the campsites. Wall lake and the hike along the Akamina Ridge via Bennett Pass and North Kintla Crest. I was proud of Cindy completing this hike since she has a fear of heights.

On our return, first priority was the shower then laundry before departing this wondrous place early the next morning. Due to the high winds along the mountain valleys, Erik (my kayak) stayed on top of the van - though I have jury-rigged it somewhat since trees broke one of the uprights. More updates coming shortly from the USA as this trip slowly winds down.

Tidbits:
- The National and Provincial parks close smaller tent type campgrounds too early -- only large main RV type campgrounds are open after Labour Day (assume most summer help returns to school).
- Can’t mention too often how cheap and good Alberta steaks are - even regular sirloin melts in your mouth..
- Rip-off: Canadian National Parks require separate special fishing licenses -- US National Parks just need the appropriate State fishing license (downgraded the usefulness of Bogie’s Alberta fishing license).
- Kudos for Canadian National Parks -- all have showers available along with picnic shelters with wood stoves and welcome dogs on all but the most sensitive backcountry trails (cases where endangered species exist); US National Parks support none of the above.

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Banff, Alberta, Canada

Drove through Banff National Park to Canmore for a new windshield (I can see again but the van still looks pretty bad), supplies and the never-ending laundry. Returned to Two Jack Lakeside in the park which is ten kilometres from Banff and snagged a walk-in campsite with a view of the lake and great dog-loving neighbours. Begrudgingly paid $10 extra for a fire permit so I could cook two nights worth of meat (Alberta steak is great and inexpensive).

Toured Johnston Canyon which has many really picturesque falls and continued the climb to see the Ink Pots -- shot a small video which will hopefully show these bubbling creatures in action. Although the sun was wrong for pictures, continued on for quick glimpses of Lake Louise and Banff.

Our last day in the park included a great hike through an impressive old-growth forest (mainly Spruce and Lodge-Pole Pine) to glacier fed Boom Lake; well worth the uphill climb for a great picnic.

On the road again -- more stories from Waterton National Park soon...

Tidbits:
- Haven’t seen a real sunset since June; NWT due to no darkness and Alberta because of the mountains.
- Rant: Fire permits in Alberta National Parks are a rip-off and cause people to waste “free” wood.
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Jasper, Alberta, Canada

After giving up on Switzer and Wildhorse Provincial Parks (not my kind of camping where you are too close to your neighbour), we breezed into the town of Jasper where we wet our whistle (had two pints of Big Rock Traditional Ale) at the Whistle Stop pub which included a music jam on Sunday afternoons. Bogie loved the Big Horn sheep scattered around the park -- but they didn’t :).

Moved into the Wabasso campground for four days with a site just a stone’s throw from the milky white (due to glaciers crushing stone) Athabasca River -- a great campsite with even better sound effects. From this base, we hiked the Maligne Canyon, espied Medicine Lake (two rivers in with the only outflow being an underground river surfacing fifteen kilometres away) and visited Jasper Lodge on one day. Also did day hikes to Virl Lake and toured Mount Edith Cavell with its Angel Glacier. Finished our stay by viewing Pyramid Lake and shopping for the upcoming fifty kilometre backpack trip to get away from the long-weekend campers.

Our four day hike started on Thursday morning at Sunwapta Falls where we left the van (more on that later) and headed for Big Bend with the packs brimming with supplies
to spend our first night. Within ten minutes of setting up camp, a huge storm hit that filled the tent and equipment with fine sand before the driving rain arrived. Although unconfirmed, I would guess some wind gusts topped one-hundred-and-ten kilometres per hour; the tent barely survived -- but many trees around us where broken or ripped from the earth. The next morning, the sun was shining so we had a leisurely breakfast, took some pictures of the surrounding mountains then headed toward Athabasca Crossing for a two night stay.

Tree damage was evident everywhere along the trail; we pitched our tent alongside a clear, deep blue pond and had dinner at the campsite of a Miso based stew using my dried produce (mushrooms, onions, jalapenos and green peppers) plus extras just before another rain storm arrived -- the first of many. Took a neat picture the following morning once the rain cleared of Dragon Peak with its reflection in the clear pond. After a late start, we missed getting to Fortress Lake without our packs (but it kept our feet dry), finally stopping at the Chaba River crossing before returning to espy a Western Toad alongside the trail which is a species at risk in Jasper National Park. More rain came again that evening and caught us again the next day on our return hike to Big Bend. Cooked a simple dinner under my lightweight 5x8 Siltarp and retired early to stay warm as snow was now starting to accumulate on the mountains. We have heard lots of wildlife on this hike but seen very little - a decapitated snowshoe hare which Bogie tried to herd the first time at Big Bend plus hundreds of squirrels and birds.

Up early the next morning, we had coffee and trail bars for breakfast and headed back towards the falls. It was an easy hike but a sad reunion with the van when we discovered it got hit by three trees while we were hiking. My initial guess is at least five-thousand dollars damage -- the good news was the trees missed the kayaks but I have to jury-rig the rear Thule bar as the gutter support was crushed. After talking to park people (actually ran into the employee that took pictures of the three damaged vehicles before cutting up the trees) we wended our way south toward the Columbia Icefield Centre. Called the insurance company regarding the damage (will cost at least $300 from my pocket) and have setup an appointment for a new windshield in Canmore on September 9. The body damage to hood, sides and roof can await my return to Ontario.

Toured the Icefield Centre and camped at the tent only Columbia Icefield campground where we have decided to relax for two days snuggled around the shelter’s woodstove. It is really nice here watching the snowflakes fall between glimpses of the Athabasca Glacier. The nights have been down near freezing and there now seems to be more snow on the mountain tops every morning.

After getting the windshield replaced tomorrow (September 9) in Canmore, we will likely end up returning to Banff National Park for more wilderness adventures… Time will tell…

Tidbits:
- Between 1870 and today, the Athabasca Glacier has lost more than two-thirds of its volume, more than half its surface area and has retreated one and a half kilometres.
- Rip-offs: the library charges for internet access (boo-hiss) and the banks (including my TDCanadaTrust) charge $3-5 to convert foreign money or cash travellers cheques (a real rip-off when banks always make money buying and selling currencies).
- The front-tire was fixed after I found a slow leak caused by a nail.
- The van’s dash has been expanded to include jaws from Moose (Bullwinkle), Deer (Rocky), Caribou (Bou) and Elk (Summer) BUT all will have to be removed to accommodate the new windshield.
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Hinton, Alberta, Canada

After leaving our free camping spots and finding an Alberta boo-boo (Masen or Mason) at our favourite breakfast spot (it has a toilet), we headed down the road to greener pastures along highway forty towards Hinton. While exploring the area using the van we saw deer, both white-tailed and mule, coyotes and Big Horn sheep.

Pierre Grey Lakes was our first camping stop; the campground was well manicured, did not allow any gas boat motors and had trout stocked lakes but Bogie couldn’t catch any using corn and marsh-mellows. On the down side, we left after two days due to logging noises at night (one could also see the clear-cuts) and the influx of RV campers on our second night.

Ended up at Rock Lake which is thirty kilometres off the beaten path and paradise as we selected a walk-in tent site overlooking the lake. The lake is deep, really cold, surrounded by mountains and provides access to the Willmore Wilderness. We launched the kayaks and quickly found that we could paddle up Rock Creek for a quick bath in the cold water. The next day we actually paddled through the Willmore Wilderness into Jasper National Park, using the same creek, by lining our kayaks up about four sets of rapids. I assume we are likely one of the first to ever enter Jasper National Park in this fashion (not even a park sign to acknowledge the fact).

The only downside of our experience in the Rockies so far is the amount of smoke obscuring the peaks and hanging in the valleys -- although some is from BC, most is from a wildfire caused by lightning in Jasper National Park. Having run out of food, we must move to our next site after getting supplies in Hinton. But after seeing the next site, we quickly headed for Jasper National Park… Stay tuned for more updates….

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Grande Cache, Alberta, Canada

Had a large cooked breakfast at the first provincial park in Alberta to help turn a previously rainy day into sunshine with eggs. Then we set out for Grande Prairie to get a new fishing license and lures for Bogie, never ending shopping for food plus a well needed hot shower at their leisure centre.

We then picked-up Highway Forty which heads towards Grande Cache and lots of places to camp in the Rockies prior to Jasper National Park. The first couple of parks were too close to the road but were suitable for a beer break before eventually pitching the tent at Sheep Creek Provincial Park. This place is fairly primitive with six campsites (two other sites taken the first night, none the second). I am sure glad I put the tarpaulin over the tent to create a dry seating area plus waterproofed us really well when it poured all night. This neat campground even provides free firewood - all for fifteen dollars a night. The Smoky River is at our doorstep (now need some trout lures/flies for Bogie) and (up?) the Sheep Creek is only a short hike away. Stayed four peaceful days getting used to the area, hiking, fishing and touring some back roads; saw berry eating Black Bears and large hawks (Goshawk, I think).

Moved to a free campsite alongside (within ten feet) the Muskeg River; will use this location as a base camp for our first planned backpack trip along one of the interesting valleys (getting too old for really high peaks with a sixty-plus pound pack). Starting to see much more wildlife (deer, elk) and birds here in the edges of the Rockies. Bogie found a Marten den under some rocks by the river for us -- they screech like a hawk (but louder) when peeved and could likely take a good chunk from a finger or Bogie‘s nose.

Left the large tent erected at the Muskeg River (base camp) and set out for Sulphur Gates to start our two night hike in the Willmore Wilderness. Missed the side-trail along the way and had to backtrack two kilometres before finding a meadow in the Kvass Flats to camp under the shadows of Mount Braithwaite. The stars are spectacular when you are lying on your back in the middle of a meadow -- they pop out so quickly and brightly as the light fades. Hiked again to a different spot on Kvass Flats where we had mountains to view all around -- so peaceful and serene with only nature’s noises. Took a side trip to Eaton’s Falls on the return leg and then had our customary beer at the Sulphur Gates Overlook to celebrate our twenty kilometre hike.

The tarpaulin kept the water off the tent in the evening upon our return -- we also opted to have pizza and beer in town after viewing a beautiful thunderstorm (Bogie hid in the van) with lots of rain arriving across the mountains. Will relax for a couple of days before heading further south for more camping. More rain last night and a hint that winter is coming as there is now snow starting to appear on the high peaks.

So far on this trip, we have slept in thirty-nine different campsites with many more to come…

Tidbits:
- Many of the great roads, such as Beaver Dam Road, need a 4x4 with winch. Next time.
- Mount Braithwaite is 7,750 feet high and named after Dr Edward Braithwaite who joined the North West Mounted Police (NWMP was forerunner to RCMP) in 1884.
- Only a few mosquitoes exist here -- no black flies.
- Erik, my kayak, is gathering dust aboard the van in these mountains.

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Fort St John, British Columbia, Canada

Reached BC (Back to Civilization?) and started meeting loads more vehicles on the roads; BC also paved the lower part of NWT’s road to Fort Liard to show those northerners how much more money they have to spend.

Bought supplies, including cheaper beer, in Fort Nelson but decided against staying in a motel at ridiculous rates. So we ended up staying at Andy Bailey Lake in a township campground that ignored the across BC fire ban -- Alberta steak cooked on a BC grill was scrumptious. Moved on the following morning after a sleep-in caused by rain -- everything was wet or damp by the time we were packed.

Moseyed on towards Fort St John where we used the internet and headed promptly to our last campground in BC that had a neat curved bridge made entirely from wood except for the metal fasteners (plus guardrails added sometime in the past twenty years). Our campsite, number thirty-five, without a fire in the Kiskatinaw Provincial Park was alongside the river. We left early the next day just before more rain arrived since truck traffic on the Alaska Highway echoed along our valley all night.

Visited Dawson Creek early in the morning -- a cute town nestled in the step hills with a paper-mill and lots of other industries with the main distinction of being at Mile Zero of the Alaska Highway… Bye-bye British Columbia… Alberta and more camping in the mountains is on the horizon…

Tidbit:
- Look ma -- no bugs :))) -- hope this continues into Alberta...
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Fort Liard, Northwest Territories, Canada

Left Fort Simpson just before a light rain caught up with us -- a great day for travel (except for seeing wildlife) and our tent was still bone dry. Retraced our route slightly, including crossing on the Liard River ferry, until we reached Checkpoint at the start of the Liard Trail.

The glimpses of mountains in the distance made this dirt road (Highway 7) a wonderful ride. Stopped at the Poplar River for a quick bite and to entertain Bogie with a few casts, all to no avail and I lost his favourite lure to a river rock.

Continued on to Blackstone Territorial Park where we setup camp with a view of the fast moving, silt-laden Liard River. From the bank we could view the wondrous Nahanni Butte where the South Nahanni River enters the Liard River. A small town at the junction can only be reached by road in the winter -- summer requires a powerboat.

Stayed two days; Cindy and I got to see a large Lynx on her birthday while touring the area --- this is likely a once in a lifetime sighting. Did not catch any fish in the Blackstone River nor the Liard but this is a wonderful place whenever the bugs are blown away.

Setoff again towards Fort Liard; supposedly the warmest place with the best growing climate in the NWT. Their municipal campsite had too many Black flies for us to stay the night so we headed south to finish the Liard Trail.

This part of NWT was pretty spectacular with the mountains always on the horizon - both the Franklin and Mackenzie mountains. We also got to sample all of the numbered highways and see a Lynx… Now off to north-eastern BC for our thrust through the Alberta national parks.

Tidbit:
- Some may say that NWT has more mountains -- it is true but you have to travel up the Dempster Highway through the Yukon to see the same Mackenzie range.
- My dirt road skills have now been honed razor sharp; however the van is brown from all the mud and dust.

Yampa Deja Saga
Once, long ago, at the mouth of the Nahanni River where it runs into the Liard, there was a family of giant beaver. There were two huge beavers and four smaller ones. They had a great lodge at this place, which is now called the Nahanni Butte, and on the Liard there is a long calm stretch, near the Little Butte, which was the feeding place of the giant beavers. They were so large that they were a danger to the people, the splash of their huge tails upsetting the canoes and many Indians were drowned. Once there were fifty warriors together in their canoe, for they were a war party, and they all were drowned with a single splash of a giant beaver’s tail.

So, hearing of this, Yampa Deja cut down a birch tree and made a birch-bark canoe. He left his home at Virginia Falls on the Nahanni and paddled downriver to investigate. He climbed on to the top of the beaver lodge and thrust a huge pole down into it and broke it open. The beavers broke through the beaver dam, and that made the rapids on the Liard River. The big hole made by Yampa Geja’s pole can still be seen on the summit of the Nahanni Butte. It is so deep that sometimes the Indians can drop down a stone and wait a very long time before they hear the splash. Sometimes, however, they climb up and find it full of water. This augers good luck for the Indians and long life, success on his hunts, or victory for his war party.

The half of the mountain which he broke off when he poked the hole, Yampa Deja poled down-stream, pushing it with the current. That is how the Mackenzie Mountains were formed and it is why they run northwest.

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