TravelStream™ news feed for member timnjules on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/timnjules en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:41:56 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226315160/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226315160/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226315160/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:41:56 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Right Whale Bay, S. Georgia and Sandwich Isl.

Day 7, Mon 10 Nov: Failed morning zodiac cruise of Elsehul cove, but successful zodiac cruise through Right Whale Bay. Saw the amazing black and white Comerson's Dolphins, who raced our zodiacs. Every animal/bird down here seems to be black and white.

Failed afternoon landing, but zodiac cruise along Salisbury Plain. The 2nd largest King penguin colony on Sth Georgia, approx 60000 breeding pairs. I have died and entered my Agnostic Heaven, where I am surrounded as far as the eye can see by penguin parents and creches of 'Woolies', the King chicks who shroud themselves in brown cowls and bear a striking resemblance to Uncle Fester from the Addams Family. Hadn't expected Heaven to smell quite so bad.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226226120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226226120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226226120/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:40:49 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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grytviken, S. Georgia and Sandwich Isl.

Day 8, Most of the ship elected to retrace the final 5.5km of Shackleton's trek across South Georgia this morning. Quite tough going across snow and down steep, muddy hills. Who did we lend that hiking pole to? An old dear, unfortunately they tend to look the same in the ship's jacket, hat, sunglassess, white hair and a tough, determined look!

Arrived at Stromness whaling station ruins, saw reindeer running free to cause environmental devastation. A fresh meat food resource hang over from whaling days, they've not been wiped out due to protests of their status as living heritage. A crock I say, let us eat them at our back deck BBQ tonight, Vego me is quite happy to do so!

In the afternoon landed at Grytviken and had a Jim Beam toast to the "Boss", Earnest Shackleton at his graveside. Quite a good museum if you're into whaling history, Kings wandering around the rotting relics. Aforementioned BBQ dinner, with invited guests Grytviken staff and moored yachties.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1225878600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1225878600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1225878600/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:33:57 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Falkland Islands, Falkland Islands

Day 3, Thur 6 Nov: Morning landing at New Island, divine weather.
Penguins, penguins, penguins. Little Dudes! The island is owned by two families and run as nature reserves. Standing metres away, watched gorgeous little Rockhopper pengs who bounce up and down sea cliffs to nest their blue eggs, wearing yellow feathers at the side of their heads. They are the smallest of the Crested Pengs. Amongst the Rockies were the Imperial/Blue Eyed Colorants nesting. Dressed in black and white finery, it was so obvious that they wanted to be pengs. Nesting alongside were Black Browed Albatross, so serene looking, gazing at us from the knee-high mud-based pedestal nests they return to and build up, year upon year. On the hunt are the evil Skuas, preying on eggs and newborns (boo, hiss!).

We didn't think to bring UK or US currency with us as everything onboard goes onto an account to settle in Visa at the end. So begins the Great Shopping Calamity that continues to plague us. Argentinian pesos, needless to say, are redundant here-even the flights only leave out of Chile and until recently Argies weren't even allowed on the islands. So couldn't buy beautiful photograph of pengs I wanted-bugger!

Afternoon landing at West Point Island
Home of the Napier family and a nice walk to more colonies of the stars of the morning. Tourists are 'invited' to the Napier's homestead for tea and cakes, but not made to feel very welcome. Freaks.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227186420/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227186420/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227186420/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:18:26 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Sailing back to Ushuaia, Antarctica

Day 17, Wed 20 Nov: Drake Passage
Well, Tim's ridiculous wish to experience the Drake Passage in fury has nearly bitten him on the bum. I'm sure he's thankful for modern motion sickness drugs.

Talks today on; "Albatross Conservation in Fisheries" and the "Save the Albatross Campaign", whale identification, "Coleridge: Rime of the Ancient Mariner", and life at an Antarctic base (by Megan whose PhD involved sifting through Adelie Penguin vomit).

Hatches were battened down for a predicted bad night. Few people up watching Gregory Peck in "Moby Dick" as most people drugged up to the eyeballs. I'm enjoying my sea legs!


Day 18, Fri 21 Nov: Drake Passage
Talks on the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego and history of Cape Horn sailing. Sad afternoon to pack up, settle accounts and sleep off motion sickness drugs before Captain's party in the shelter of the Beagle Channel. Rounded Cape Horn-well, as near to as the Chilean government allows, we could vaguely see it on the horizon. Stunning sunset!

Day 19, Sat 22 Nov: Disembark after brekky.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227099900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227099900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227099900/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:11:55 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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petermann island, Antarctica

Day 16, Tues 19 Nov: Lemaire Channel: "We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time." T.S.Eliot.
Our wake up call was 5.30am, the sun didn't even bother going to bed last night (nor the night previous) and not sure why we did after a rather late night. It was worth being on deck to see the Lemaire Channel, stunning glaciers and glacier carved cliffs, with the ship dodging the smallish icebergs.

We had a pre-breakfast landing at Petermann Island, a mile long island covered in those omnipresent Gentoos and also Adelies. Adelies are little cuties with black hoods including a feathery nose (feathers to about half way down it's beak).

We seem to have been the 'Chosen Ones' of the Weather Gods, on the whole the weather has really varied only between ok-spectacular. Only a couple of activities were cancelled including the post-brekky zodiac cruise planned for later in the morning.

The afternoon held a Climate Change lecture. Gary, a retired Geologist/Glaciologist is one of the most amazing speaker I've ever listened to. No concepts are too difficult to understand when he presents, truly a very rare gift.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227013080/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227013080/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1227013080/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:09:46 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Port Lockroy, Antarctica

Day 15, Mon 18 Nov: Morning landing at Port Lockroy. Weather Gods angry again.
Failed to land at Jougla Bay and given 1 hour landing in 2 groups at Goudier Island, the site of the world's most southerly post office, an ex-British base now run by the UK Antarctic Heritage Trust. I bought a T-shirt which had been on display, not in plastic bag, which came with ready-permeated penguin guano aroma. Had to wash 3 times to remove the souvenir smell!!!

ANTARCTIC PENINSULA!!! The afternoon was spent in Paradise Bay, an incredibly beautiful place. We alternated between a zodiac cruise through the magnificent icebergs of Skontorp Cove, and snow hiking with tobogganing. The zodiacs did some cutting through forming pancake ice and brash ice, an experience in itself.

Dinner was a BBQ, with a great party atmosphere. Still no reindeer steaks. People are starting to realise that the real stuff is over now, tomorrow will be heading towards that infamous Drake Passage.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226839860/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226839860/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226839860/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:04:25 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Elephant Island, South Shetland Islands, Antarctica

Day 13, Sat 16 Nov: Elephant Is, South Shetlands:
Morning zodiac cruise at Point Wild where a monument sticks out of a rocky sea marking the spot where Shackleton left his men to seek rescue at Stromness. The rocks are covered in Chin Strap Penguins (shan't bother explaining their name). The monument is like a part of their world and I can't help wondering if they attach their own legend to it and think it's a shrine to the Chin Strap god to worship.

The afternoon took us to Gibb Island for a zodiac cruise along the coast. I piked on this one but Tim went (I was just too Raynaulded sitting still in the morning zodiac, despite 4 pairs socks-3merino!!). The buggers saw a Leopard Seal! I'd planned to tell Tim one had swam near our window to make him jealous. I asked him if they'd seen the Leopard Seal and he said "yeh" giving me a quizzical look, wondering how I knew? Well, that backfired on me, grand style. One had been right up to them in their zodiac (all fingers in the boat!) looking for it's next meal.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226493060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226493060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226493060/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 19:57:08 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Cooper Bay, S. Georgia and Sandwich Isl.

Day 10, Thu 13 Nov: Morning zodiac cruise and landing at Cooper Bay.
This was challenging for the staff as the small beach was home to many male furry's, with whom they battled a path up to the Macaroni Peng rookery. Quite similar to the Rockies, but cresting slightly different and a bit bigger. Before heading back to the ship, we cruised through the icebergs in our zodiacs.

We set sail during lunch for Elephant Island. Talk on Plate Tectonics.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1225786080/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1225786080/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1225786080/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 18:55:21 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Ushuaia, Patagonia, Argentina

We bussed it to Ushuaia next morning and met a gorgeous Pommy couple we hung with on and off the next 6 days. Stayed in our favourite hostel ever, Yakush, with alternating day of sloth (and washing), then day of activity. Have never stayed in one place so long, actually enjoyed it! Visited Marshall Glacier, chair lift not running so die-hard skiers carried equipment on foot up and down mountain. We did hike up and had picnic at the top, followed by some butt-tobogganing down for the hike back to the town. Also did hike through the beautiful National Park, along side the Beagle Channel. Still not seeing the resident introduced ecological pirates, the beavers. Got very snowed on and again realised the inadequacy of my gloves.

Met a pastry chef from one of the Antarctic boats, she mentioned they were desperate for waitressing staff. The boat was sailing at 5pm (it was then 3pm on bus back to town). Had a serious discussion with myself about whether to leap on that boat for the season! Talked myself out of it.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226926440/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226926440/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/timnjules/1/1226926440/tpod.html Sat, 29 Nov 2008 07:57:23 -0500 Tim n Jules-Argentina, a pinch of Chile and the big one, Falklands, Sth Georgia, Shetlands and Antarctica.

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Half Moon Island, Antarctica

Day 14, Sun 17 Nov: Half Moon Island. "To dine with a glacier on a sunny day is a glorious thing and makes feasts of meat and wine ridiculous. The glacier eats hills and drinks sunbeams." John Muir
Had a great landing with walk amongst Chin Straps and Weddell Seals. Love the Weddells, faves so far.

Afternoon landing at Whaler's Bay, Deception Island, which is a active volcano caldera. Two of the expedition team dug a couple of wallows in the black sand of the shoreline for the more adventurous amongst us to take a dip in the geothermally heated water. Needless to say, neither of us braved the icy dip followed by the warm wallow followed by the icy dressing.


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