TravelStream™ news feed for member thetraveller88 on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/thetraveller88 en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:14:54 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141185540/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141185540/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141185540/tpod.html Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:14:54 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

I woke up to the sound of rattling in the kitchen through the thin walls at 6 a.m. The resident Mississippian decided to make beignets for everyone. Never having tasted the real thing, I was happy to oblige as the first taster. I quickly finished off my chore, then convinced the German/New Yorker/cook/environmentalist and the Canadian freelance writer to join me for breakfast at the Church Street Cafe. It was my last chance for some good New Mexican fare so I opted for the Huevos Rancheros with my chile Christmas (getting into the local lingo: a mix of both red and green chile) which I polished off with gusto while listening to the server telling us about the house being haunted.

A quick tour of the old town square and the University of New Mexico site and then it was time to head off to the airport.

It was a great 8 days--a good mix of city life, culture, interesting cuisine, history. It was a trip to a foreign world yet still within the borders of the U.S. of A. I even got a chance to brush up a bit on my Spanish here!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141097640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141097640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141097640/tpod.html Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:13:17 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

Here I am heading down another scenic byway. This time it's the Turquoise Trail which follows the ridge of Sandia Mountains. There were a couple of cute little towns but I decided not to stop. I headed over to the Sandia Tramway, the longest tramway in the world at 2.7 miles, taking one up about 4000 feet. I am not one for touristy destinations but the view of Albuquerque was worth the price of looking like a camera-touting tourist.

A simple yet delicious meal at the highly regarded Artichoke Cafe was a nice change from chile. On almost a whim, I decided to drive out to Acoma, also called Sky City. The pueblo perched on top of a mesa surrounded by unusual rock formations and bathed in the late afternoon light was certainly stunning and worthy of the 4 hours of travel time.

Back in town, I headed to the hostel. I walked in the door and felt instantly at home. This hostel is one of the most welcoming and homiest I've been in, albeit a bit tatty and rough around the edges. It is also the only one I've been to that requires mandatory chores. In the end, it wasn't so bad: the chores actually makes it feel more like a community. Among the guests for the evening were an artist doing her Georgia O'Keefe pilgrimage, a social work student doing research nearby, a Canadian freelance writer, a retired park ranger travelling Route 66 by Greyhound, a guy moving from his Mississippi home, recently destroyed by the hurricane to a job in California, and a young woman who recently uprooted herself to create a new life. Being Mardi Gras, the Mississippian (is that what you call them?) cooked dinner for all of us. We sat around the large table, a haphazard family of sorts.

Here on Route 66, I had to do the American thing. I, along with the other 2 Canajuns and an honorary Canadian (she was an American but pretty cool) headed out for malted milkshakes in as kitschy a diner as we could find, filled with Marilyn Monroe posters, route 66 signs, malt mixers, bright neon lights, vinyl booths and a jukebox. We even sang along to Patsy Cline. Then we called it a night.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141010280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141010280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1141010280/tpod.html Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:10:52 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Los Alamos, New Mexico, United States

It's sunday morning and the best way to start the day is to head to Plaza cafe in the centre of the old town where one can get blue corn and pinon hotcakes. I opted out of the real Canadian maple syrup, refusing to pay the $4.25 surcharge for the privilege to eat something so readily available back home. With the hotcakes all tucked away, I headed out to Bandelier National Monument. At the Tzankawi ruins, the 1.5 mile loop takes one up khiva ladders, past water channels and petroglyphs to the top where there are ruins of ancient dwelling sites and a panoramic vista of mesas galore. At the main site of Bandelier is a longer walk that leads to an excavated village, numerous cave dwellings carved into the rock formations in the Frijoles Canyon, and a ceremonial cave perched high up just under the rim of the canyon, requiring a 140 foot climb of 4 rickety khiva ladders to reach.

A detour takes us to Valle Grande, an extinct volcanic crater. It was stunning to see the distinct scrub grass growing inside the caldera surrounded by evergreens.

By then, it was late afternoon, leaving very little time to see the Bradbury Science Museum and Historical Society museum in Los Alamos. With my peace-loving attitude, I found it difficult to come to terms with what this place signifies. While I can appreciate what the gathering of some of the world's top physicists accomplished, I had a much harder time dealing with the detonation of the two atomic bombs over Japan, killing multitudes of innocent victims and still significantly affecting the health of a people generations later. It was nice to know that I was not alone thinking this way. At the end of the exhibit, there was a place where we could write our thoughts--for or against--nuclear weaponry.

All this hiking and action--time for a good soak at the spa...aaah. I booked a private spa pool at the relaxing Japanese style 10,000 Waves spa resort. I never thought I could spend an hour just soaking in a hot tub but at the end of it all, my muscles were like mush.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140923340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140923340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140923340/tpod.html Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:05:31 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Santa Fe, New Mexico, United States

Today's agenda change: a down day, opting out of a road trip to a nearby Pecos National Park.

I started the day with an afternoon visit to the Museum of Fine Arts. It was not high on my list of things to do in the city but since I had the ticket in hand, I decided to check it out. I was pleasantly surprised by seeing a different side to Liechtenstein--his Indian series. This guy does more than blow-up comics strips.

For dinner, I headed out to Baja Tacos for a budget take-out meal. The bounty smelled so good that I headed straight back to my temporary home to devour the tamale, tacos, and chile relleno. Even at the 'holiest' of holes here, the food is hot, spicy, and fabulous. With such a limited selection of New Mexican cuisine in Toronto, I headed out in search of a good vegetarian New Mexican cookbook and a couple bottles of chile.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140835860/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140835860/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140835860/tpod.html Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:03:17 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Santa Fe, New Mexico, United States

Here in Santa Fe, foodies like me converge. Breakfast is no small affair. I head to Cafe Pasqual's to try their sweet tamale with beans, hot chocolate, and huevos with fried bananas--certainly not my usual breakfast nosh.

Well satiated, I head to the Loretto Chapel, which is supposed to be designed after Sainte Chapelle in Paris, one of my favourite churches in Europe. While the dimensions were similar I was a touch disappointed: while it was pretty and bright, it didn't have the grace of thin arches and colourful light that comes from the large windows covered with stained glass that one would see in the parent chapel in Paris. Nonetheless, I appreciate that this is New Mexico and the feat of building the chapel in this harsh environment is noteworthy.

I wandered down Canyon Road, window-shopping by the art galleries and popping in to a few to chat with an artist or two.

The Palace of Governors remind me of the Spanish rule in years past. It feels more like South America than U.S.A. in this building.

Next on the agenda was the highly acclaimed International Folk Art Museum. I'm not really a fan of folk art but found the fabulous displays and compactness of the museum quite enjoyable. While there, I ran into a private tour where one of the visitors was related to the artists of many of the objects from the surrounding pueblos.

Last stop for the day was the small but fascinating Georgia O'Keefe Museum. While the number of displayed tableaux was limited, it's variety gave a good sense of the different styles and periods of her career.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140748080/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140748080/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140748080/tpod.html Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:00:54 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Taos to Santa Fe, New Mexico, United States

Imagine! Chile for breakfast! Next time I visit New Mexico, I'll have to remember to pack along my TUMS. After a delish, if not conventional, meal of poached eggs, chile, and yam biscuits at the historic Doc Martin's, I headed out to start the High Road to Taos, except going backwards. First stop is the most photographed church in the U.S., easily recognizable as one of Georgia O'Keefe's favourite subjects: the San Francisco de Assis church at Ranchos de Taos, then continuing along to Trampas to see the San Jose de Gracia church there. Unfortunately, in February, most things are closed for the season--the church was no exception. Next stop was the Santuario de Chimayo. The place seemed a bit cartoonish with its leaning walls and timber inserts. Rancho de Chimayo nearby was charming--just wished that I was hungrier and not on such a tight schedule. Lunch at the restaurant would have been a nice experience, I think. Here I got a bit lost and ended up joining up with the faster way to Santa Fe. Warning: there are traffic signals in the middle of the highway! I almost ran a red light, not expecting one to be around.

A visit to Santa Fe's town centre in the late afternoon light was otherworldly--blue skies, large adobe buildings, and colourful displays. One wonders: how can a town of this size support so many art galleries?
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140660120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140660120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140660120/tpod.html Mon, 24 Apr 2006 14:52:29 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Taos, New Mexico, United States

I woke to a bright sunny morning--this is a land of big skies.
At breakfast, I chatted with an older man heading out to the slopes, complaining about the paucity of snow on the slopes here in Taos, one of the biggest ski destinations in southwestern U.S. It certainly wasn't because it wasn't cold! The thermometer dipped below -14 degrees Celsius! Luckily, my agenda for the day did not include any skiing--I could do that back home in much more snow-rich conditions. Instead, I headed for Taos Pueblo. Imagine--living in a home that has been in use for about a thousand years! They may not look it as the inhabitants replaster the walls each year. The early golden morning light worked its magic on the adobe homes, stacked atop each other with kiva ladders propped up in various strategic positions. I paid a princely sum for the right to take photos and went snap-happy--I figured the money may help the community a bit. The pueblo continues a simple existence, having no electricity or running water. The only water source was a partially frozen stream running through the pueblo. The Spanish colonial influence was apparent with the main building of the pueblo, a large adobe Catholic church.

I had passed a couple of places of interest in the dark the night before so I trekked back out to see the deep narrow chasm of the famed Rio Grande. Looking across, one could easily miss this geographic landmark. The bridge across was quite graceful, despite the use of steel. Apparently, it was quite an engineering feat when it was built half a century ago.

The other spot of interest are the Earthships. These are homes that were made entirely out of recycled car parts and was designed to be super-ecofriendly, using alternate energy sources and minimal water. They're quite the oddity, even for Taosian (is that the word?) standards. Imagine a rubber tire for a windowsill!

I headed back to the main part of the old town to wander around the main square and the many art galleries and quaint (in a very rich way) shops. I stopped in El Rincon Trading Post, a shop that has been around for decades, being one of the first shops in the area, catering first to settlers, then to artists, and now to tourists. Inside is a quirky museum-like room filled with all sorts of odds and ends relating to one family's life in Taos. It still functions as a store where you can buy locally made handicrafts and more.

In the end Taos, is as picturesque as I had imagined but a bit unreal. But what can you expect with a town known best for its artists?
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140570660/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140570660/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140570660/tpod.html Fri, 21 Apr 2006 20:55:57 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado, United States

I headed out early in the morning with a pretty fast-paced agenda: I was doing a circuitous route starting in northwestern New Mexico over to southern Colorado, then through the Carson National Forest into Taos. First off, I drove over an hour out of the way, just to do a bit of BTDT--having a limb in each of four states at the same time at Four Corners, U.S.A. The detour was not as silly as that: The sight of Shiprock Rock's odd shape rising from the desert floor and the majestic mesa of Ute Mountain was worth the trip.

Crossing over the Colorado border was a bit more dramatic than most drives between states. While New Mexico roads had a dusty more-like-Mexico feel lined with pawn shops, the cross over into Colorado heralded smart shops and SUVs galore. The whole raison d'etre for this overstuffed day was to visit the cliff dwellings of Mesa Verde National Park. My first knowledge of the existence of dwellings dating back almost 2 millenia in the continental U.S. was in the Asanazi village ruins by Grand Canyon. One look of the photo of the cliff dwellings and Mesa Verde shot close to the top of my travel wish list.

I took the turnoff towards what was known as the clifftop drive, stopped at a sign pointing to the Square Tower. I walked along the path but not seeing much of interest, even at the end of the path. Then I turned and glimpse down just beneath my feet and just nestled behind a tree was the Square tower--golden in the light.

These well-preserved homes nestled under ledges of the canyon lip were certainly spectacular. I even got up close and personal with these homes, exploring the Spruce Tree site.

With still the majority of driving left, I grudgingly pulled myself out of the ranger-led walk and drove to Durango. This is a charming little town oozing the wild west while sucking in the dollars. A quick late lunch and a walk around the shops, I headed out once again. I passed through Pogosa Springs, reluctantly bypassing the natural springs.

The sun was low by now so I gassed up and continued on my way, just getting glimpses of the Carson National Forest before darkness settled in.

It was pitch dark when I drove by the Earthships and the Rio Grande gorge just before rolling into Taos.

What a day! Driving for about 10 hours--but the sight of of Mesa Verde--well worth it!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140494340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140494340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/thetraveller88/new_mexico_2006/1140494340/tpod.html Thu, 20 Apr 2006 23:07:09 -0400 Big art, spicy chiles, pueblos, and desertscapes in New Mexico

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Albuquerque, New Mexico, United States

By the time I got through half of the bowl of chile (New Mexican spelling) my body was craving some fresh veggies. Perusal of the menu showed that the only thing of a vegetable nature were the red or green chiles or if one wishes, the Christmas (red/green combo).

First stop was the Indian Pueblo Cultural Centre to get cultured about all the different Indian puebloes, many of them descendents of the Ancient Puebloans of southwestern Colorado, communities dating back close to 2000 years ago.

As I drove out of Albuquerque, I looked back to be blown away with one of the most memorable moments on my trip: the setting sun's colouration of the Sandia Mountains, so named for the watermelon hues.
]]>