TravelStream™ news feed for member sueschubert on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/sueschubert en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Fri, 04 Jul 2008 17:20:52 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1214170560/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1214170560/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1214170560/tpod.html Fri, 04 Jul 2008 17:20:52 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Portland, Oregon, United States

Summer in Portland!
Dear friends and family,
We are back and ever so glad. Traveling is such an incredible, educational experience, but home is where our hearts are. We had a phone call from Catania the morning after arrival. That sweet voice melted our hearts. Six weeks is a very long time to be away from her (and Stacey).
Since arriving home, life has happened. Summer arrived two days ago. Camp Grandma and Grandpa, session #1, has begun and ended. We had a blast! Spain photos are on the computer tugging at our memory each time we look at them. Remember that? Wasn't that an interesting experience? They tell all.

Thanks so much for keeping us in your thoughts as we winged our way east and west; and thanks for keeping up with our travels via the blog. It's been fun! Now for your travels and news. Tell us all! Ciao, Dick and Sue
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1212344040/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1212344040/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1212344040/tpod.html Fri, 04 Jul 2008 16:46:16 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Madrid, Spain

Madrid is set on a meseta (table top)!

In Spain's Golden Age (16th century), King Philip IV gave his patronage to many artists including Velazquez and Murillo, as well as men of letters such as Lope de Vega, Quevedo and Calderon. Later, in the 18th century, Madrid underwent its greatest transformation under the Bourbons from France, the same family who the present-day King Juan Carlos hails from. King Philip V built a royal palace; Charles III made certain that Madrid took on an incredible splendor when he built the Prado, one of the top art museums in the world today; the nobility began building palaces, and off they went shaping the Madrid we see today. Doesn't this make you want to make your reservations now for Madrid and soak it all in yourself?

We arrived into Atocha Train Station after being only partially pummeled with Spanish tomatoes by my conversation with Juan and hailed a cab to our hotel. Our driver looked none too happy with our usual 4-person, 6-suitcase/backpack entourage. I kept assuring him that we always fit (well, squeeze) into every taxi. What's the problem if the trunk doesn't close completely and the back seat (Jean, Len and Sue) is smothered by Dick's full backpack, legs/arms/bodies, etc.? By the time we reach the hotel, the driver has been charmed and is laughing along with us.

Once again we are centrally situated, right off the Gran Via. We get settled and go out to begin the exploration. What's down this street? Around that corner? Like dogs we dig to get to the bottom of it, rummaging for maps, scratching our way to sites and sniffing out pastelerias. Getting serious, we seek out Madrid's open-top tourist busses. Where is the closest stop? Head scratching ensues. Assignments go out and so do we! Well worth it, the bright red bus gives us a lay of the city while basking under a bright blue sky. Much squinting, oohing and aahing later, we have determined that this is a well-planned city full of private and public buildings pleasing to the eye and sense.

Over two days, our mutual penchant for art and history lures us to two of the finest museums in the world, the Prado and the Reina (Queen) Sofia. The Royal Gardens attracts us to view art in its most natural form, flowers, bushes and trees from all over the world.

The Prado! "In Times of War" commemorates the Madrid uprising of May 2, 1808 which began Spain's war of Independence against Napoleon's forces. Goya (Francisco de Goya y Lucientes) not only loved his trade but he needed the income (as opposed to Velasquez who was independently wealthy). In fact, he served four Spanish monarchs over his career. Our reaction? A collective "Wow"! Covering 25 years of his life betweeen 1794-1820, following a serious illness that left him deaf and, in 1820, a period of intense changes in Europe that profoundly affected Spain, Goya reacted to it all. The French Revolution and the execution of Louis XVI in 1793 marked the first upheavals of this period. The result: Two of his most wrenching paintings, El dos de mayo and El tres de mayo.

After convalescing in Cadiz from his illness, Goya returned to Madrid and began a new direction in his art, independent of client's wishes. It was during this time that he published Los Caprichos, a profound critique of "human errors and vices", as relevant then as now. These were the same Caprichos that we all saw in tapestry form in Santiago at the beginning of the trip, and the same drawings that Dick and I saw in Zaragoza 12 years ago!

The Prado is also home to many other masters: el Greco, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, Rubens, Velazquez, Murillo, Tintoretto, et al. You might know Diego Velazquez de Silva as the painter of Las Meninas (a painting of the family of Philip IV), considered by many to be the finest painting in the world. Velazquez had a quick rise to fame after becoming court painter to the King, and by the end of his life (1660) he had achieved knighthood when he was accepted in the Order of Santiago.

However, we have to admit that the Reina Sofia stole our hearts and souls with its collection of Joan Miro (Sue's absolute favorite contemporary Spanish artist); Picasso; Dali (however, we had seen quite enough of this crazy man's art in a fabulous Barcelona museum); and photography by Robert Cappa whose story we had read while in the Alpujarra Mountains. Someone has just found a box of his (and others') photographs in Mexico, taken during the Spanish Civil War. They had thought these were lost forever! Can't you feel the thrill on finding them?

The prize no doubt goes to Guernica, Picasso's huge mural commissioned for the Spanish Pavilion at the 1937 World Fair, inspired by the Fascist terror-bombing of Gernika, "renowned for its expressiveness and powerful symbolism, a stark denunciation of the atrocities of war". Picasso, self-exiled to France as soon as Franco took power in 1939, stipulated that the mural not be shown in Spain until after Franco's death (1975). The pre-drawings, the historic film, the emotion, the bodies torn apart, human and animal alike. Guernica tells the story.

It's time to get out in the sun again! If one was to look down upon Madrid from above, he would see pedestrians. Madrid is a walking city! Walking streets lined with restaurants and stores, benches, plazas large and small. Most everyone walks. The paseo is traditional. That's in the evening, every evening, a stroll. Old and young alike. Young people flirting. All ages walking arm-in-arm. And always the older people being cared for by younger family members or care-takers (even some illegal immigrants). And talking. What's on your mind? How are the kids? What do you think about the price of gasoline? Milk? Flour? What about Prime Minister Jose Luis Rodriguez Zapatero's mostly all-woman cabinet? It is a never-ending discussion or debate. In other towns we saw it over coffee, over the clothes line, on the sidewalk in front of a shop or home. People feel connected.

Our penultimate Spanish dinner of tapas, in the La Latina section of Madrid, was a long, long, long walk. Maps don't always tell the whole story! But well worth it. The tapas and service didn't disappoint. However, we still aren't sure how the Madrilenos can stand all that street noise while they are trying to converse!

Tomorrow we head to the airport for overnight and home the following day. Is it really time to wing our way West? Ciao, Dick and Sue
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1211982480/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1211982480/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1211982480/tpod.html Fri, 04 Jul 2008 16:22:56 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Córdoba, Spain

It´s feria time in Córdoba!

In Córdoba, as in the whole of Spain, starting with la Semana Santa (holy week of Easter), there are non-stop celebrations and fairs, mostly connected with the church. As one local told me, Spaniards know when to party and when to work; and so they do! Remember, we are in Southern Spain now, and life is a bit more relaxed here, where the sun is stronger, the days are longer and the wine flows more freely. Is that possible? We were hoofing it back from el Palacio de Viana, a 14-19th century example of Cordoban civil architecture with 12 patios and a wonderful garden, truly outstanding in a city famous for its patios, when we saw the first horse-drawn carriage filled with handsome ladies wearing flamenco dresses and their horsemen driving the horses. This is so exciting! Follow that carriage to Feria.

We couldn´t allow this opportunity to pass, so it was off to Feria for the four of us. We just followed the typical dresses, all colors and designs, all gorgeous. The purpose of the fair according to the literature is to drink and dance. We can confirm that. However, it didn't begin as a festival of parading/drinking/dancing. It originated years ago as an agricultural fair that has morphed into many huge tents, all serving traditional food and playing either flamenco music or, yes, American music to dance to. Grab your castenets, look sultry, put your arms just so, and start clicking those heels, will you? The crowds are fierce; the horses and carriages parade, as do the ladies and gentlemen. Very Spanish, very Cordoban. Their hang-overs musts last for days.

Tomorrow, Granada beckons! Ciao, Dick and Sue
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1211031000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1211031000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1211031000/tpod.html Thu, 03 Jul 2008 18:28:43 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Santiago de Compostela, Spain

Dear family and friends,

Countless people have come to Santiago de Compostela on pilgrimage since St. James´ tomb was discovered in the early 9th century. The final destination hasn´t changed nor have the motives for the journey but the itinerary has. While most of the Iberian Peninsula was under control of the Moors, the capital was Oviedo in Galicia where (we are now). With the Reconquest (which lasted approximately 700 until1492), when King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella united Spain under the Roman Catholic Church and expulsed the last of the Moors and the Jews who didn´t convert, the capital was moved to León. According to who was in power, and where the capital of Spain was, pilgrims felt an obligation to pass through that capital on their way to Sanitago. Today we visited a Gallego Museum of history which showed a huge map of pilgrim starting points, and they are endless
--Eastern and Western Europe, the British Isles, Asia, Australia and beyond. Unbelieveable! Oh, and the capital has changed and pilgrims no longer feel a compulsion to travel through it.

After arriving in Santiago on Thursday, we did the noble thing, take a shower. Then it was off to the Pilgrim´s Office to turn in our credentials. As Dick says, his credential (as all credentials), which has been stamped at stopping points along our journey, is his best souvenir. Mine, too. We went upstairs to the office and waited our turn until called in. Dick is first and is asked a number of questions: Why have you made the journey? Was it spiritual and Christian, too? He explained that he had just retired and needed time to think over the rest of his life, and the pilgrimage had given him this opportunity. Thus, he was awarded the official Compostela, the paper on which his name was written in Latin. He was pleased.

I was asked very little and received the same. I have a rather religious compusure, I guess. As for Len, who had walked the furthest by far and done all the symbolic gestures (brought a rock to put on the pile at the crucero de hierro [iron cross], threw another rock from home into the Atlantic Ocean and more) did not receive the coveted Compostela, but one reserved for those pilgrims who claim to be on a spiritual not a religous pilgrimage. However, his morals prevailed, and he was not disappointed.

On Friday at noon we all attended the pilgrim´s mass where the priest read out a long list of countries from which the pilgrims originated, where they started and how many completed it from each country. The piece de resistance, however, was the botafumeiro, a huge (maybe 6´ long by 1´ diameter) silver container for incense which is hung from a very strong and long rope pulley-style from the extremely high ceiling (90') of the Cathedral of Santiago. When lit the smell and smoke of the incense pours out, and the priests start to swing it over the heads of the attendees until it reaches the ceilings!

Well, we thought, we have just one more item to check off our list before declaring ourselves successful pilgrims, a trek to Finisterre, the end of the earth or so was thought during Roman times before the explorers started, well, exploring the seas. On Saturday we took a 2.5 hour bus ride (which by foot would have taken us three days minimum) to the earth´s end, and then walked the 2.5 K (each way) to the lighthouse. The sun shone and the blue skies bathed us as we climbed the hill. Len descended the hill and threw his stone into the ocean; Jean had camera in hand. Sue photographed the beauty as I saw it through the lens. Dick tried to stay out of the sun. We did it! We celebrated with the best dinner of the trip! Dick and Jean both ordered rape (raw-pay), a wonderful white fish poached in olive oil and Spanish paprika, with potatoes. Len eats beef or chicken when we eat fish. Sue promises to serve what she had at home for guests! Padrones, small green peppers, a bit spicy, grilled or deep-fried and served with olive oil and sea salt over them. Fabulous. Her main dish was a seafood salpicon--a melange of freshly cooked fish and seafood of several varieties, in small pieces, combined with red pimiento, onion, cooked egg white, olive oil and sea salt, served cold. My mouth was, and is, watering. Oh, and a very good, older than we have been drinking, 2005, Rebiero wine.

Ciao, Dick and Sue
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210600500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210600500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210600500/tpod.html Thu, 03 Jul 2008 18:26:10 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Palas de Rei to Melide (A Coruña Province), Spain

Still around 65 dg. F
An easy 15K day

Dear family and friends,

We are beginning the countdown to our final town, our goal Santiago de Compostela (Thursday). I asked Len how he feels about his Camino experience soon ending, since he has been at it since April 3. A mixture, he said, of sadness and of anticipation of things to come. The Camino offers a style of life never before experienced by us and hard to imagine if one doesn´t don his own boots! We will all savour what we take from it.

Our destination today is Melide, of pre-Roman origin. This is where the French way (Camino francés, the Camino we are on) joins the Northern coastal route that goes along through the Basque country, Cantábrica and Asturia.

The time passes slower today as we head into a much less interesting part of Spain--newer, more commercial, with fewer photo ops. That is, until I met Kristof, a young Hungarian with 3 years of college (philosophy), traveling with his girlfriend. However, they have separated for a few days while she takes it easy on a sore leg. In the meantime he hikes up to 45 K a day (he´s young), trying to make time and be frugal. In fact one night he and his girlfriend arrived in a town too late for a bed at the local albergue (they close by 10pm) and simply put their sleeping bags down on the floor of a house under construction! Kristof filled me in on the poor economic situation in Hungary in spite of their belonging to the E.U. Unfortunately, it hasn´t benefitted them at all. Many of his friends have multiple degrees and no job. Kristof has taken another approach to life--work hard for a year, then travel for a year, and think about life while traveling.

We approach a Medieval Roman bridge (the second of the day) and Kristof´s good eyes spot a woman doing her wash in the river! As Catania would say, "Cool". I am certain the woman doing the wash would describe it differently. She is leaning into the river, her knees on a wooden support, while she scrubs and scrubs, running a bar of soap over the garment now and then, and then into the river to rinse. I would guess that she might be a part of a dying generation. We are on the outskirts of the village, in the old, interesting part. Another neighbor was already hanging her laundry to dry (while Spaniards have dryers, most hang their wash out), while a third was hoeing her garden. I wonder about their husbands: Dead? Working? In the city square passing the time with the other local men? At the bar drinking and chatting up their friends? It´s hard to know. By the way, wine isn´t considered an alcoholic drink as it is in the U.S., but just another beverage to be enjoyed at all times of the day and night. I´ll drink to that!

Okay, time to talk about a few interesting pilgrims we have seen. Today it was an older woman toting her belongings in a backpack on wheels. It made so much noise on the stones that it drove the other pilgrims a bit loco! Then the two Swedes, a mother and daughter. The mother is at least 75 years old and a brisk walker. We discovered what propels them when we stopped for our second breakfast along the trail: They always have a beer, no matter the time of day. Ciao, Dick and Sue

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210682640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210682640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210682640/tpod.html Thu, 03 Jul 2008 18:20:56 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Sarria to Portomarín, Galicia, Spain

Sarria to Portomarín, 22.9 K
Saturday, 10 May, rainy

Dear friends and family,

There has been a hiatus; everyday can´t be a blog day or you would be convinced that we aren´t walking! This is the drill: Get into town, be greeted by Jean, who is as glad to see her fellow pilgrims as we are glad to see her! She already knows where our hostal for the day is (no more albergues for us; we have been spoiled by not sharing our bedroom and bath); she has the keys and escorts us to our rooms. Ahhhh, Canadian hospitality in Spain! Where´s the internet café? Where should we have lunch? Our hostess has it all figured out. Jean has joined this rather interesting sorority of bus\taxi riders who bare their souls. Jean listens. Have you ever noticed that when we are on an airplane, for instance, people want to tell us their life story? It is no different for Jean on the bus with other peregrinos reticentes, pilgrims who would rather not, or can´t, walk.

Our hike yesterday and today started and ended in the rain. But cold it is not. We shed our clothing quickly as we hike along each day (of course not all of it)! Last night in our Hotel Roma we wanted to do our laundry by hand and have it dry by the morning. No way! Since spring has sprung in Spain, the room heaters have been turned off. Oh, well, throw damp clothing in the backpack and off we go. The town of Sarria is rather new and uninteresting, but the path out of town intrigues us--old prison, old and reconstructed hospital for leppers. I have photos of all, of course!

The path today is incredibly unpredictable. Or, maybe it is quite predictable--wet, wet, muddy, sloshy and slippery, but oh so charming. Through tiny towns I could name but won´t; past farms small and large, poor and rich; stopping as the farmers escort the cows to the barn for milking or the sheep to the high field for grazing. The shepard was wearing wool slacks and sweater with a blazer, holding an umbrella. When I spoke with him, telling him what a hard-working dog he had, he showed me the few teeth he has. These aren´t wealthy people. He answered me in Gallego, the local language, which I don´t understand. Every Spaniard is required to know Spanish or Castellano, as I explained before. But I assume this man is uneducated.

Our second breakfast today is in a bar the tiny village of Mercado de Serra, population 20, más o menos (more or less), according to the patron there having his morning vino tinto cut with water! The proprietess is charming and interested in our countries of origin. The two were chatting it up about local affairs. There are a lot of old, lonely people here, and this is one way for them to pass the time and connect.

Today seemed like a long hiking day (for us). Some youngins´ can hike up to 30-45 K; we don´t compete. We all have our issues, feet, knees, etc., but mostly we are well and eager for the hiking day. We are now starting to see a lot of hórreos, the rectangular structures on stilts that measure about 5´ wide and maybe 20´ long, that protect grains and cereals from rats and rains. I think I may have mentioned them before (but rereading my writing isn´t a priority). Call it a history lesson.

Once in a while on the path we pass a cross in memory of a pilgrim who has died, either of natural causes or by accident (usually hit by a vehicle). Luckily the markers don´t bear any of our names.

Finally we are in Portomarín, a town which had to be moved during the 1960´s when Franco decided to damn the river, Río Miño, as a water source for the region. The new town was built up on the side of a hill, and some of the old structures (government, ecclesiastic) were moved stone-by-stone. We got our sello (pilgrim´s stamp) in our credential and settled in. And Jean has found a place where we can do our laundry (wash and dry) in the municipal albergue. While there, we see many "friends" from the trail, plus meet new ones. We meet our first Turk since starting the trail. He is young, worldly and speaks four languages. When I asked him how long we should spend in Turkey when we travel there, he said "2-3 months"!

Surprise! Dick went snooping about and found a 1 euro bottle of wine, no label, and some potato chips, and thus our first spontaneous pre-dinner cocktail party was initiated. What fun!

Bedtime, around 9pm, is always welcome! Ciao, Dick and Sue
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210345020/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210345020/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210345020/tpod.html Thu, 03 Jul 2008 18:09:58 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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O´Cebreiro, Triacastela, Sarria, Spain

Galicia is magnificent!

There is definitely a different feel to Galicia--huge farmlands lush and green, divided by rock walls (no mortar), the path mostly steep down, down. Follow the yellow arrrows and, in Galicia, the way markers (concrete with the kms. left to Santiago well marked). There is never a rush. Our hiking days continue their pattern: A quick Spanish breakfast of toast, orange juice (usually fresh squeezed), and coffee; on the trail by 8:30, hike 20 K m.o.l.; second breakfast or first lunch, depending on the hour (always in a bar along the trail); a coffee or beer as we near our destination (another bar).

Some more observations:

-The farmers in the field usually wear royal blue pants and shirt; the women, royal blue skirt and shirt, with an apron. All wear galoshes. It is muddy!
-We are often stopped by cows being herded to the barn to be milked. Or sheep to pasture by the farm dog.
-Today a farm woman came out and offered us freshly made crepes as we passed by! We chatted and gave her 1 euro each.
-Many villagers wish us well. It helps that we greet them in Spanish.
-Pilgrims hike in many different ways. Some have their packs transported for them daily via taxi. They walk with a day pack. Some have arranged at home (via travel agent) that each day they won´t hike over 15 K; a taxi awaits them at that point to transport them to their destination where their backpacks await!
-Many pilgrims hurt (physically). Perhaps they didn´t train before getting on the trail. Maybe they have new boots. Or, they aren´t in shape; or, their backpack is too heavy. Maybe the trip isn´t for them, and they realize this after arriving in Spain. Everyone has a different reason for hiking the Camino and either giving up, or completing their goal. We are all on a different journey.
-The Spanish love their cured meats, and in many places we see it hanging from the ceiling of the bars and restaurants: hams, bacon, chorizo, etc.
-There are some very old buildings in Galicia called pallozas which used to house farm families. Today they are museums and we toured one. In days of old, before roads were put through (and new building materials could be brought in), pallozas were very common--round with thatch roofs, dirt floors, and plenty of space to cure meats at the ceiling. The parents had the only private room; the kids shared the common room; there was a separated-off room for the kitchen; and space for the animals adjacent. No heat; no electricity; hardly any light.

This is a very interesting trip. Thanks for coming along. We do hope this finds you all well. Ciao, Dick and Sue

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210170060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210170060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210170060/tpod.html Thu, 03 Jul 2008 18:08:04 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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O´Cebreiro, Spain

It is still sunny and we are entering Galicia!

Spain has around a dozen autonomous regions, and Galicia is one of them (located in the Lugo region). Castilla-León, which we left this morning, is another of the regions--all of which have their own local traditions and customs.

This afternoon we enter Galicia, the Gaelic part of Spain and much like Scotland, due to the invasion of the Celts long ago. We see heather, hear bagpipe music and walk through mostly green, lush and pastoral countryside grazed by cattle, sheep, pigs, sheep and chickens. In fact along the trail we passed a farm where the woman was sheering sheep by hand, while her husband looked on! The mountains of Galicia are the first objects in 5,000 km that the westerly winds coming across the Atlantic hit so there is, indeed, an immediate change of weather as we hit the mountaintop. Misty, foggy, much cooler.

Galicia shares many similarities with other Celtic regions--too poor to provide much employment for its large family structures, emigration of its younger men is common. However, the pilgrimmage of close to 100,00 people per year has brought a dependable income to many. Galicia is one of several regions of Spain with its own language, Gallego, which the people speak, along with Castillian (Spanish), which is the national language.

I must tell you about Jean, our front (wo)man, so to speak! Because Jean doesn´t hike, she arrives at our destination hours ahead of us. In the meantime, she has had time to find our hostal, register us and become acquainted. Where is the internet cafe (or a computer for rent)? She knows. Where should we eat lunch? She knows that, too. What sights should we see? Jean is our guide. She has evolved into the unofficial welcome wagon of each town we stay in--greeting and helping pilgrims in any way she can. Probably the funniest was when she arrived at the Brazilian Albergue ahead of us. She had had time to learn the ropes, welcome the pilgrims that Cristina, the owner, didn´t have time to welcome, show people to the dormitory, and, the next day before her taxi arrived, have time to clean the entire dormitory! Like Jean said, the albergues have very strict rules and everyone must be out by 8am. Since her taxi wasn´t arriving until 10, she had to get to work!

Caio, Dick and Sue






]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210341000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210341000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1210341000/tpod.html Thu, 03 Jul 2008 18:06:01 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Vega del Valcarce, Spain

70 dg. F and still sunny

Hi family and friends!

Today was a fabulous day--I got back on the trail with the guys; Dick hit 100 km. and Len shaved off his beard for the first time in decades! His children back home are still in shock!

Today we walked through countryside, mountains and a stream running all along the trail from Villafranca to our destination, Vega de Valcarce. We see wildflowers all along the trail such as ajuga, vinca, primrose, rose of Sharon, Scotch broom, candytuft, violets, and many more that have been domesticated around the world, hear crickets and walk just 15 kms. to our destination. I walk quickly (although Len and Dick don´t set a fast pace, honestly) except when I stop to shoot photos. My subjects are predictable--old buildings, old people, (young and) old dogs, old churches (I obviously like old!), chapels, farm animals, important sights, etc. I promise to post a few when we return to Portland.

Today we stay at a Brazilian albergue, run by, yes, Brazilians! They are a great couple who run a tight ship and, of course, work very hard from early morning to late in the evening. We are back to bunk beds, maybe 100 people in a large room; communal everything; dinner and breakfast included and nice bar (bonus). At dinner we eat with French (they are very patient with my rusty French); Australians (two men who are here on a dare from a freind); many Germans (more Germans are on the trail than any other nationality); a Swedish woman, and us. It was a lively and fun evening. Everyone has their own reason for walking the Camino, their own goal, their own story. And we find that the Camino is very ephemeral--pilgrims come into and out of our lives, some often, some rarely. We all set our own pace. Oh, a note about the Germans. Sadly, Len has seen many signs along the trail: "Germans, go home," in English. Not sure who is writing these, or why. After all, Franco was allied with the Germans during the Civil War in the 1930´s.

We hope this finds you all well. Much love, ciao, Dick and Sue
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1209993060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1209993060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/sueschubert/1/1209993060/tpod.html Wed, 02 Jul 2008 16:40:30 -0400 Dick, Sue, Len and Jean hike the Camino de Santiago and tour Spain: Leon to Santiago de Compostela (backpack); tour Barcelona, Sevilla, Ronda, Cordoba, Granada, the Sierra Nevadas and Madrid.

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Villafranca del Bierzo, Spain

Villafranca del Bierzo, 70 dgs., sunny, gorgeous!

Amigos y familia,

Today is the last get-well day for Sue. She and Jean took the bus, at 1% of the cost of a taxi and much more fun! We arrive in Villafranca with a bunch of time to explore the beautiful little village, have a nice lunch and relax. A few observations from the stay:

-There are a lot of old Spaniards and canes sell well!
-The older women sit and gossip; the men sit and watch the world go by.
-I think that Spaniards smoke because they are bored.
-We see few babies Too bad as that would help rejuvenate the Spanish population.
-There are a lot of community gardens.
-Spain pollards their trees, i.e., they cut them back to the nibs in the winter. The trunks grow normally, and after leafing out, the trees are full as usual. But there are no large upper branches!

More news tomorrow! Ciao, Dick and Sue
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