TravelStream™ news feed for member shewolf on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/shewolf en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sun, 19 Nov 2006 11:23:48 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163953320/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163953320/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163953320/tpod.html Sun, 19 Nov 2006 11:23:48 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Rome, Italy

I write this on the airplane home from Copenhagen to Seattle where my mother and brother will meet me. Nope, didn't go to Bracciano for the big wedding-figured if Oprah wasn't going, I wasn't going. Nope, didn't see Jlo or Jim Carey or Will-they were over by the Spanish Steps and I was by the train station so I could catch the train to the airport.
The last event I want to write about probably sums up this trip for me: I have written about my love/hate relationship with Italy. It is such a beautiful country and has some of the finest ruins, art and scenery in the world-not to mention the wine and food. But I feel the Italians have a very cavalier attitude toward the things they possess. There is virtually no movement to protect some of the precious antiquities this country has and I am appalled at how little they seem to value their art treasures. Then, of course, there is this attitude that tourists are to be taken advantage of-I have already elaborated on things that have happened to me others and me in this country. It is the one place in the world where I feel unsafe.
When I purchased a train ticket from Naples to Pompeii I used the Tran Italia ticket booths. The fare was something like $11. I handed the man some euros and he handed me back some coins and waited.....for me to walk away. I thought, "Nope, I have more change coming back so I waited. He handed me a five-euro bill and I walked away. Later, I realized he should have given me ten-euro back. I scolded myself for not counting back the change, as I should have. I went on to Pompeii and had a great day.
Saturday I went to purchase my ticket from Naples back to Rome where I would spend one more night before heading to the airport. I went to the ticket booth-different booth, same scenario. I gave the man a fifty-euro note for a thirty-three euro fare. He gave me back some coins and waited...I waited. Finally, he gave me a ten-euro note. Triumphant, I walked away. And then realized he should have given me fifteen-euro change. I got mad-and you all know how I am when I get mad. I went to the cabernardi and told them what had happened. I also told them I would never again return to Naples and I was tired of them taking advantage of me. Of course, my train was about to leave but I showed the officer the ticket taker and went on to board my train. I immediately started writing an essay I entitled "My Love/ Hate Relationship with Italy." What I was going to do with it, I am not sure but I felt better just typing away. I noticed our train was a few minutes late to leave, but wasn't sure what the delay was. Suddenly someone tapped me on the shoulder. It was the cabernardi who had taken my complaint. He had a five-euro note in his hand, which he gave to me and said, "Please come back." He left and our train departed.
That's how I feel about this trip. I knew it would be hard work; I knew there would be problems; I knew I would be lonely and homesick. But, every time I got to the point where I thought, "This is nuts, just go home," some magical day would occur and I would remember why I was here. Thanks, Mr. Cabernardi.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163711280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163711280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163711280/tpod.html Thu, 16 Nov 2006 16:15:36 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Amalfi, Italy

I have been told and read about the Amalfi Coast in Italy-its charm and beauty-- so I was prepared to be disappointed. I wasn't. Without a doubt this is the most beautiful place in Europe, perhaps the world, I have traveled to. I took the train from Naples to Sorrento and had forty-five minutes before my nearly two-hour bus ride to Amalfi. I decided to eat some lunch and had some wonderful pasta with lobster and several "gifts" from the chef that I did not recognize, but were delicious. Then I boarded a local bus to Amalfi-around hairpin curves, hugging rugged cliffs, to see some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen. The towns are poised on cliffs; the sea is a crystalline blue; and the sky is a glorious blue. I drove through towns such as Positano and Priano that featured hotels with jaw-dropping views and charming shops to Amalfi. There I pursued the shops filled with ceramics and coral jewelry as well as cameos and stopped for gelato and hot tea.
I timed my return trip so that I passed the same scenery as the sun set-pinks and corals bathed whitewashed buildings as the twilight faded to dark and the fairy lights of the towns came out. It was magical. My first return trip to Italy will be to the Amalfi Coast. It is not for those who fear heights or suffer from agoraphobia; it will require the goat-like skills to navigate the hills and steps, but the rewards are wonderful. Most of all, I hope to return to this magical place to share it with a special person.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163629140/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163629140/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163629140/tpod.html Wed, 15 Nov 2006 17:27:52 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Naples, Italy

I take the train from Rome to Naples and check into a hotel near the main train station since I will use Naples as a base to make day trips to southern Italy. Naples is not a pretty city. In fact, it is one of the ugliest and dirtiest I have ever seen-rates right up there with Bangkok. But the worst thing about Naples is the traffic and trying not to get run over while crossing the streets. There are few pedestrian crossings so you just have to get brave and get out there-scary at best.
The next day I take the ramshackle train known as the Circumvesuviana that links Naples to parts south. My destination today is Pompeii, an archeologist's dream. Pompeii is not for the faint of heart-it is large and full of cobblestones and large steps, but it is fascinating. Pompeii was established between the ninth and sixth century BC because of its excellent location on the Sarno River and Italian coast and fertile soil. It grew to a city of over 20,000 but really came into its own when made a Roman colony in 89 BC. It became an important shipping port and the arts flourished with beautiful mosaics and frescos. While many wealthy lived in the area, Pompeii was a working city thriving with everyday workers who baked bread, made wine and oil and, most importantly, textiles that were traded to other areas. Natural dyes were used to create colorful clothing and urine was collected to use as bleach for the materials.
While always strongly under the influence of Venus, the goddess of love, when it became a Roman democracy, the citizens took to democratic government and politics. Election propaganda still covers many of the exteriors of buildings. A forum and government buildings including a curia, used for city council meetings, and a court as well as administrative buildings were well developed. A large food market known as the macellum was where fish, meat, vegetables and cereals were sold. In that area are two of the plaster casts made of people trying to escape the eventual catastrophe. Evidence of a large trade in grain and bread is evidenced by the industrial size pistrinum (bakery) where grain was ground and goods baked. Further evidence that this was a large trade area are found in the numerous inns for visitors as well as the thermopoliums, a sort of Roman snack bar for quick food.
But Pompeii was not all about politics and work. Known as the city of passions, the walls are also full of graffiti devoted to love and sex. In fact what we would today consider pornographic was commonplace in Pompeii where sex, homosexuality and prostitution were common practices promoted by Venus's benevolence. Some 35 brothels were located in the city and erotic paintings above each room either proclaimed that woman's prowess or gave suggestions to unimaginative customers. Phallic symbols appear everywhere in the city. Visitors to the city were attracted by these businesses as well as the plays and gladiator fights held in the 20,000 seat theatre. In fact, fights between spectators became so common that the government closed the arena for ten years.
Many of the houses in Pompeii were richly decorated with frescos and statues and almost all featured lovely gardens. Most of the homes are closed today to the public to protect their mosaic floors and fading frescos. In addition, there were a number of temples devoted to various gods and goddesses as well as to honor emperors.
On February 5, 62AD a huge earthquake struck this bustling metropolis. Considerable damage was done but artisans were brought in to reconstruct the city and over the years it began to return to its former glory. Then, on August 24, 79AD at noon, with no warning whatsoever, Mt Vesuvius erupted and, within two hours, the entire city was covered with six meters of ash and lava and Pompeii disappeared off the face of the earth. People were unable to escape and perished in mid-stride. The city lay buried until the 1800's when its treasures were uncovered.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163196060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163196060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163196060/tpod.html Wed, 15 Nov 2006 17:03:49 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Rome, Italy

I have spent four days in Rome but have not done much of anything---except read a book, watch movies, catch up on my blogs and, oh yes, plan my next trip. Since I spent a week in Rome several years ago I couldn't work up the energy to do any sightseeing-especially since the weather was not exactly cooperating. The one day I vowed to get out and explore some of the city I had not seen, I woke to pouring rain. So I have seen lots of the inside of the new Termini Railway Station-much improved since I was here with-can you believe this-a Roadhouse Grill!! Much like the one my sons love in OKC and Willie Nelson owns a part of in Austin, the place serves MEAT-hamburgers, steaks and ribs. It was busy all day long-protein at last!
I did spend some time researching my next trip and decided to see some more of South America since I really enjoyed Buenos Aires and Uruguay during January a few years age. I found an unbelievable deal-a 16 day cruise leaving out of New Orleans on January 6 and stopping in the Cayman Islands, Aruba, Margarita Island (Venezuela), Trinidad, French Guiana, Fortlyn, Salvador and Rio (all in Brazil) for only $899 on Princess Cruise Lines. That is room, food and some entertainment for $56 a day. You can't beat that. I have been on Princess-they are not great but they are pretty good.
Of course once I get to Rio I have to get home-so after six days exploring Rio and hopefully seeing the famous waterfalls in Brazil, I will fly to Manaus on the Amazon River for $400 and catch a cruise spending two days on the Amazon, stopping in Boca de Valeria and Suntaren, Brazil before revisiting French Guiana, Trinidad as well as stopping in Grenada, St Vincent, Dominica, St Kitts and ending in San Juan, PR. These twelve days are slightly more expensive at $1,200 a person but the flight back to Austin from Puerto Rico is only $217.00. Luckily my friend Jan was able to book immediately so we are set. If anyone else is interested send me an email and I will tell you how to get these deals. If you have never been on a cruise it is the best way to travel and see lots with little work-unpack once and know where all your meals and beds are. You don't really get a feel for the local areas but you meet really interesting people and have a lot of fun along the way. I will also be traveling to northern Africa (Morocco and Egypt), South Africa, Australia and New Zealand and would welcome anyone to join me this trip.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1154321280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1154321280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1154321280/tpod.html Sat, 11 Nov 2006 17:32:15 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo is not a very pretty city; it is spotlessly clean but there are no interesting or beautiful buildings-just gray, faceless rectangles of varying heights. I suppose that is why our tour this morning included the orange Tokyo Tower which is really just an ugly television antenna and the plainest Imperial Palace you can imagine. The highlight of the tour, for me, was a trip to the oldest Buddhist temple and the nearby shopping district of Akakuskanon, both packed with Japanese enjoying some Sunday shopping. Shopping, I gather, is Japan's national pastime. We also saw a demonstration on culturing pearls which was Matt's highlight, mostly because he had given Leslie some pearls. Everything in Matt's world is connected to Leslie. After our tour, Matt caught some sleep to make up for last night and I used the spa and sauna at the hotel, well worth the extra $5 it cost.
Everything at our hotel is extra. But the Japanese do two things well-bathing and gardening, and the intimate gardens that surround our hotel complex are exquisite. After an hour relaxing in the spa, I spent an hour walking the streets, my favorite part of traveling. Old and young were out enjoying the last of their Sunday afternoon. I came upon an Indian restaurant that smelled delicious so I returned to the hotel and made Matt get up so we could feast on chicken tiki marsala and curry, saffron rice and Nan. It has become essential that we find places to eat that the locals frequent. Food in Japan is exorbitant-a plate of spaghetti at the hotel costs a laughable $60.00, room service will bring you a club sandwich for $22.00 and the cheapest 3 or 4 course meal goes for $120.00. Our dinner with wine and beer totaled 41 yen, roughly $40.00. Much more my style!
It has been another night with little sleep. The phone rang at 4:00 am and I slept very little after that. Matt has been on the computer since then and I finally got up at 6:30 am. Anyone who knows me knows this can not continue. I need sleep and lots of it. I am 54-they are 19 and 23 and we are not on an equal playing field. Hopefully we will fall into a regular routine soon.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163110980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163110980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1163110980/tpod.html Sat, 11 Nov 2006 17:24:50 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Naples, Italy

The remainder of our cruise was pretty uneventful. Our sea day was used for relaxation and a very nice formal night, in many ways my favorite night of the cruise. It poured rain when we pulled into Naples and I only got off the ship to buy some packing supplies to mail a box back to the US. Since I planned to be in the Naples area for the next nine days, I figured I could do without the rain.
One of the most important lessons I have learned on this cruise is from traveling in predominately Muslim countries. I truly believe that most Muslims are peaceful and kind people. Certainly the Muslims I have had contact with have been wonderful-from the man I met in Istanbul, to a wonderful fellow cruiser I met from Pakistan, to our tour guides. One of our guides illuminated some facts on one of my tours-probably 98% of Turkey is Muslim but of those only 12-15% are Fundamentalists. Like any other extremist group they are dangerous. To lessen their power Turkey has outlawed extreme attire including headdresses, veils and fez. But it will be only through dialogue between the two cultures that we will begin to realize how alike we are-we all have hopes and dreams, cherish our families and children, and struggle to find meaningful relationships. While our patriot and religious feelings may differ, we are all citizens of the world.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162936800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162936800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162936800/tpod.html Sat, 11 Nov 2006 17:08:51 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Athens, Greece

Perhaps my biggest disappointment of this cruise has been our stop in Athens. The city of Athens itself is, well, ugly. Overcrowded with boring concrete architecture, the city is a snarl of traffic and uninspiring sights. The highlight of the city tour was a stop at the original 1896 Olympic Stadium if that gives you a clue. Of course, of main interest, was a trip to the Acropolis, a name given to a Greek fortress located on a hilltop. Perhaps because so much of the legacy of Athens is its literature, philosophy, art and government that a good guide would have been beneficial on this tour. Instead, the Greek who led us seemed barely awake and I probably knew more about Greek theatre and arts than he did. Still, it was a thrill to see the streets that Aristotle, Platos and Hippocrates had preached from and the theatre that the plays to Dionysus were offered by Euripides and Sophocles. The peak of this civilization occurred during the 70-year Golden Age in the fifth century and our founding fathers used Greek democracy as the basis for our current democratic society. The importance of the Greek's gift to the modern world and the effect of the rediscovery of Greek classic thinking on the Renaissance in the 14th and 15th centuries cannot be overemphasized.
The Acropolis actually consists of four sites: the Temple of Athena Nike-constructed to commemorate the victory over the Persians in 420 BC, the Parthenon built of white marble as a monument to the goddess Athena, the Erechtheion where olive trees were fostered, and the Propylaea, the gateway entrance to the sacred area. Of course, the Parthenon is the most easily recognized symbol of the area and it is built in the Doric order with eight columns on the narrow sides, and seventeen columns on its longer edifice. Used during the Ottoman Empire as a magazine to store munitions, when the Venetians bombed the Parthenon in 1687, a huge explosion did extensive damage to the building. In addition, Lord Elgin of Britain stole many important parts of the building and sold them to the British Museum where they remain today.
I found the museum of the Acropolis to be its most interesting part. Many of the original artifacts are located here and you get a real idea of their size and detail by viewing them up close. Most of the statues and friezes were painted various colors, which I had not realized. Another interesting fact about the buildings is that all of it is built on the principal of optical illusion-therefore, there is as much as a six degree lean on the columns and the bases vary by as much as three inches to compensate.
Much of the area was restored in the 1970's. Unfortunately, lead and iron were used as reinforcements for the work and now the materials are breaking down. So, once again, the scaffolding is up at the site and will be for the next fifteen years. The monuments will never be totally restored, as the Greeks believe they should be kept as ruins. By the way, the Acropolis leads the vote for the new Seven Wonders of the World which the people of the world are currently voting on. If you would like to vote you can cast your ballot at www.new7wonders.com
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162844580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162844580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162844580/tpod.html Sat, 11 Nov 2006 15:33:59 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Kusadasi, Turkey

Our stop in Kusadasi, Turkey today was a highlight of the cruise for me. Kusadasi has become popular with yachters in the last twenty-five years for its scenery and shopping but, more importantly, for its unique heritage as being the oldest city in the world. Kusadasi is located on the mouth of the Caster River, and silt buildup over thousand and thousands of years has led to the city moving inland for over 6,000 years. Archeologists are currently uncovering evidence of this earlier civilization but it is the third city site that we visit today. Built around 300 BC by Lyssimachos, one of the generals of Alexander the Great, the city's remains are one of the most important examples of Roman architecture and evidence of the 250,000 people who once lived there.
The Arcadian Way was the main street of the city and used by many emperors and Cleopatra and Marc Anthony who once visited there. The city was very forward thinking in is design and included an area where all visitors had to go through a quarantine period to ensure they were not bringing the plague or other infectious diseases to the area. In addition, the sewage and water pipes were laid underground several feet apart to avoid contamination and terra cotta, instead of lead, was used for the water supply.
Ephesus, the jewel of the Aegean, was the biggest port in Asia Minor and had one of the original Seven Wonders of the World, the Temple to Artemis. Over 425 ft long, and 220 ft wide the temple held a huge 50 ft statue of the goddess; today only one pillar remains. Evidence of a shopping market, a road of homes for wealthier citizens with mosaics and frescos (today closed to the public to protect them), a library and even a brothel with a signpost to mark the way give us signs of everyday life. The library at Ephesus is one of its most impressive structures. There a group of locals stage a small play to reenact daily life in the Roman Age. Senators are strolling around the library, salesmen are peddling their wares and a slave is tried for fleeing his owner. A traveling fair arrives and musicians, gladiators and jugglers perform for the crowd.
But the most important residents of Ephesus were St John the Apostle and Mary, the Mother of Jesus. Jesus entrusted the care of his mother to John upon his death and when John was forced to flee Jerusalem, Mary accompanied him. It is documented that Paul spent over two years in the city, 53-54AD and preached in the amphitheatre. Pressure was put on Paul to stop his preaching by the silversmiths who were losing business as patrons bought fewer silver icons to offer Artemis as Christianity spread. Paul eventually left the area but later wrote letters to the Ephesians that are part of the New Testament. Mary eventually was moved to a small stone house in the country where she spent her final days. The site was investigated and verified by the Vatican in 1967 and visited by Popes Paul the VI and John II. The location of the church was discovered due to the visions of a nun. In Ephesus the Virgin Mary Church was the site of the first Christian Council meeting that established the role of Mary and the dogma of the Trinity in 431AD, giving further credence to the likelihood of Mary's residence in the area.
Unfortunately, my camera has broken and I discovered I do not have the battery charger for my backup camera so I have "borrowed" some images from the internet for you to see. I tried to select images that were similar to the ones I took.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162745700/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162745700/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162745700/tpod.html Sat, 11 Nov 2006 15:23:11 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Istanbul, Turkey

Day two in Istanbul is sunny but still freezing. The trip into the city takes over an hour. Our shuttle buses supposedly have special permission to go onto the marathon route but every time we try to do that we are turned away. We take a huge detour around the city and finally arrive shortly before ten. Since the last shuttle leaves the city at 12:30 I have to hurry if I want to see any of the sights.
I head to the Blue Mosque built between 1603 and 1617 in classic Ottoman design and is the only mosque in Turkey with six minarets. Of course, because of our delayed trip into the city I have arrived during prayer time and cannot see the magnificent paneling of blue and white mosaic tiles. From there I go to the Hagia Sofia Museum which began as a Christian church in 537 AD, was converted into a mosque under the Ottoman rule after the conquest of Constantinople and in 1932 a museum. It is made of Asian ivory, Egyptian marble and its columns come from the ruins of Ephesus. Its dome was the world's largest until St Peter's Basilica was built a thousand years later. I also go by the Topkapi Palace, home to Turkish sultans, but don't have time to go inside. I hurry back toward the Blue Mosque and hear the noon call to prayer. Nearby, Muslim men are washing their feet in preparation for prayer. I talk to a man who tells me his family has owned a rug factory for six generations and he offers to take me back to the ship in his private car so I can take time to see the inside of the mosque. He talks about how important friendship is between Muslims and Christians and says, "It is not my fault I was born in Turkey, nor is it your fault you were born in the US." I am tempted to take him up on his offer but decide I better catch the shuttle bus back to ensure a timely return to the ship. I am impressed by how friendly, if somewhat aggressive, the Turks are. I wish our time here had been under better weather and circumstances.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162659000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162659000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shewolf/atw_pt_1_06/1162659000/tpod.html Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:17:49 -0500 Matt and Sheri's Amazing Adventure Part 1--the Northern Hemisphere 2006

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Istanbul, Turkey

We are scheduled to arrive in Istanbul at 1:00 pm for an overnight stay. By lunch snow has begun to fall. I cannot believe I have come all the way to Istanbul, Turkey to see snow. It is a miserable, wet cold that is bone chilling. We take a shuttle bus into the city across the Golden Horn and go from Asian Istanbul to the bulk of the city on the continent of Europe. Turkey is where East meets West and it is one of the most diverse cities in the world. We have been warned that tomorrow (Sunday) the city will host the Euro-Asian marathon and entry into the city will be difficult and the covered section of the Grand Bazaar will be closed. I decide to go to the bazaar and shop since the weather is so miserable.
Our two-mile trip across the Galata Bridge is a nightmare. Traffic is bumper to bumper and cars seem to go wherever they please. It takes us almost thirty minutes to get to the Grand Bazaar and once there the more than 5,000 shops that make up the area overwhelm me. More, we must use Turkish lira and the storekeepers are very pushy. It is one of those places I hate. Still I am determined to spend at least a couple of hours here so I persevere. I wander around for a while and try to get a sense of what is available and what the prices are like. I don't see much that excites me-except a papier-mâché doll and of course I need to find a magnet and a tile. After an hour or so I decide to take a break and stop in a Turkish café for some apple tea and baklava. This is my third taste of the sweet delicacy and it is the best. I had one on ship that didn't have much phyllo dough; another in Greece that is overly sweet but the Turkish version is made with pistachio nuts and flaky pastry. I have learned from our Turkish assistant maitre d' that baklava originated in Turkey and not Greece as I had previously thought.
It has gotten dark and the weather is worsening so I decide on a doll depicting a craftsman making worry beads, find a tile and magnet and catch the shuttle bus back. Last night while uploading my pictures from Greece I killed my camera. It was already on its last leg when I dropped it one last time and now it will not function. I have the 12-mega pixels I bought in Hong Kong but discover I have sent the battery charger back with Matt; I am reduced to buying some disposables to document the rest of the trip.
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