shaunb's TravelStream™ — Recent TravelPod.com entries TravelStream™ news feed for member shaunb on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/shaunb en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Wed, 14 May 2008 23:08:35 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com Break for the Border — Laguna Colorada, Bolivia http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1209815100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1209815100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1209815100/tpod.html Wed, 14 May 2008 23:08:35 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Laguna Colorada, Bolivia

After a good night´s rest there are no stragglers thsi morning and we even have time for tea before the minubus arrives to take us to the town´s aduano and then onto the Bolivian border, 50km and an additional 2200m elevation away.The minibus has seen better days, one of tyres is a little flat but we are soon at the towns custom post to be officially stamped out of Chile. Therefore as we climb the good two lane road to the border we don´t officially exist in Bolivia or Chile.  The bus takes left turn onto a gravel track signed a Boliva and after a few turns we are at the blaek crossing point, a few no thrills buildings representing the Bolivian customs are all that occupy the cold dry 4500m pass.We are stamped into Bolivia with no problems and then get first sight of the 4x4 that 6 of us plus the driver and cook will be traveling. It is going to be cosy thats for sure. Bags are transferred from the minibus to the 4x4 and are surprised to see that picnic table materialised with tea, coffee, bread, jam and luncheon meat.  Seems like we are the only tourto get this tratment so are now feeling that we are in good hands.  The border crossing is a hubbub of minbuses transfeering their passengers into 4x4s but we are the only ones being fed.Not so good is the fact that the 4x4 conks out about 200m down the road. It gets started again but repeats this preformance at our first stop, the entrance to the Flamingo National park, where we stop to pick up our admission tickets.  In fact this performance continues for most of the day but we soldier on undettered.  There are so many 4x4s out here that despite the remotmess, and this place is VERY remote, there is always someone nearby who can be called upon for help.The landscape is aout of this world.  We decend to the first stop, Laguna Blanco, a part salt lake surrounded by towering mountains and volcanos. The colours are dizzing and very hard to descibe. You´ll have to refer to the photos but even these don´t do the place justice.  We acsend and then descend to Laguna Verde, a vivid green exapnse of water set in the same vast landscape. Before reaching the first hostel, set at an altitude of 4400m ( about 38,000 feet) we stop at a thermal bath, set alongside another jewel of a lake.  The water is a beautiful 32C and running the gauntlet to the changing rooms is definitely worth the effort.Once at the hostel, more a montain refuge in actuallity, I´m last into the dorm and bag the worst bed, in the world. It´s a saggy metallic frame whose head and foot board angle in towards each other like suspension bridge towers.But b}not to worry as food is being served. Mashed potaoes and sausage, our late lunch as we have arrived at Laguna Colorada by 3pm and have the rest of the day to ourselves. After ´lunch´some of us defy the cold and the altitude to head out, opposite the hostel for a view of the flamingoes on the lake. Once again surrounded by dry brown peaks, occasionally shouldering a little snow.  The walk is a good opportunity to descibe the distances up here.  The air is so clear that things appear much closer than they actually are. A short walk across the haed of the lake looked like 500 metres but actually turned out to be twice that.  After admirning the birds fro a while we headed back to the hostel as the temperature fropped as quickly as the sun.  We were greeted by a pot of boilng water, tea, coffee and hot chocolate. Soemthing we weren´t expecting and very welcome.This is followed quickly by dinner and its not long after that the cold drives evryone to bed. Most of the girls sleep fully clothed with woolly hats to boot.  There is no heating here and the temperature plummets outside at night.I have a very unconfortable nights sleep. Oh and there are no showers here, not that I would have bothered in the cold, and the toilets are flushed manually by pouring water from a nearby butt.  
]]> Al Morro — Arica, Chile http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210365300/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210365300/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210365300/tpod.html Wed, 14 May 2008 20:48:22 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Arica, Chile

Read Ian Rankin´s <i>Black Book whilst waiting for the morning fog to clear.&nbsp; Sun came out&nbsp;at 11.45am, as it does most days here.&nbsp; Played table tennins with Antoine then headed to beach with Roberto where we met his girlfriend, Sylvana.&nbsp; After some lounging on the sand headed for McMeal (the first in about 2 months I think). Reatsurant had plaque commemorating Ray Kroc, the man who <i>didn´t found the original McDonalds, and&nbsp;I noticed metal clips under the tables with signs imploring you chain your shopping bags there.&nbsp;Afterwards&nbsp;followed signs to ´Al Morro´ which means ´To Morro´ - and tomorrow I start the journey home. The cliff at the southern end of the town&nbsp;has&nbsp;fantastic views&nbsp;west and north and is the site of memorials to the War of the Pacific.&nbsp;&nbsp;Had another meal after thie in cheap reaturant then queued, and finally caught a <i>collectivo (route no.4) back to the hostel. Spent the eveining drinking beer with Antoine, Anika, Roberto and Sylvana.&nbsp; I am the only guest at the hostel tonight!
]]> Completing The Circle — London, England, United Kingdom http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210600200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210600200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210600200/tpod.html Wed, 14 May 2008 17:00:28 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
London, England, United Kingdom

The appearance of&nbsp;Selsey Bill out to my right was my first sighting of the UK in over three months.&nbsp;&nbsp;The weather was good, it was warmer&nbsp;than Madrid according to the pilot, and below me I studied the lush countryside flecked with the bright yellow of oilseed rape in&nbsp;flower.&nbsp; It was bright on the day I left the UK and bright on my return, although as we circled Leith Hill before getting permission to drop into Heathrow the changes in the season were very apparent.&nbsp; I'd left Santiago slowly submitting to the Autumn and returned to the&nbsp;England, welcoming the&nbsp;Spring with&nbsp;open arms.&nbsp; Twenty five flights (I count every take off and landing as a flight) and&nbsp;the circle was complete.&nbsp;&nbsp;As we taxied to&nbsp;Heathrow's Terminal 2&nbsp;we passed contractors working on the runway.&nbsp; I'd noticed simliar work being undertaken at Madrid airport where it looked like they were proud to be putting in the finishing touches. Here at Heathrow it&nbsp;looked just like tinkering.&nbsp; The main contractor, according to the&nbsp;name embalzoned on the plant,&nbsp;was called "Brown".&nbsp;
]]> One More Flight — Madrid, Madrid, Spain and Canary Islands http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210590000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210590000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210590000/tpod.html Wed, 14 May 2008 16:37:50 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Madrid, Madrid, Spain and Canary Islands

As the plane touched down on Madrid it felt as if I was almost home.&nbsp; I'd still to catch another two hour flight back to Heathrow but at least I was&nbsp;back in the Eurozone.&nbsp; It was apparent that the airport had been subject to massive expansion since my last visit in 1999.&nbsp; Transfer to the main terminal for my London connection involved a&nbsp; ride a rapid transport which looked like it was fresh out of&nbsp;bubblewrap.I made calls to update&nbsp;people on progress so far and then made my way to gate H18, passing a couple of smoking pods along the way.&nbsp; At least the Spanish had not been as draconian as the UK in their execution of anti smoking legislation.&nbsp; The A319&nbsp;bound for&nbsp;London left&nbsp;on time.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
]]> Farewell Sting — Santiago, Santiago, Chile http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210510800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210510800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210510800/tpod.html Wed, 14 May 2008 13:14:03 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Santiago, Santiago, Chile

Waking up is surprislingly easy, and I've slept well too.&nbsp; Autumn is creeping up on Santiago and the hostel is visibly emptier than even two weeks ago.&nbsp; Less people means less noise and less disturbance.&nbsp; I notice in the morning light that the 8 bed dorm has two spare beds, the first time I've not seen a full occupancy in all my time here. I shower, grab my stuff,&nbsp; and scurry downstairs to wait for the shuttle.&nbsp; I'm the only passenger and progress to the airport is swift. Being Sunday morning the traffic is light.&nbsp; I learn on arrival that I'm being charged $10.000 pesos for the pleasure instead of the 3.000 last time around.&nbsp; Of course. It's a collective service and I've no-one to shoulder the burden of the fare with me.&nbsp; Oh well, should have bougght&nbsp; a return from the airport last night. You live and learn. Once inside I'm checked in quickly, I already had my boarding card for Madrid as this was issued in Arica.&nbsp; I spend my last Chilean notes on water and Skittles and await departure.&nbsp; The Iberia A320 is on time but I'm dissapointed to learn that it has shared video screens.&nbsp; It's potentially going to be a long flight.Anyhow the film offerings are one with Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman playing two terminally ill old men and&nbsp; another Spanish effort about an athelete who ultimately gets a liver transplant from his girlfriend.&nbsp; Cheery stuff.&nbsp; Later there's an arts magazine presented by Francine Stock and Andy Kershaw, covering Italian modern art and a jazz festival in Romania.&nbsp; This is shown an incredible three times (one less than the number of trips I make to the rear of the plane for a whiskey and coke). Aisle seats are not so bad!&nbsp;My centre aisle seat which turns out to be more of a bonus as I end up chatting to another Brit who is adjacent to me across the aisle.&nbsp;&nbsp; It transpires than Len is returning from the Falklands where he captains one of the fishery patrol vessels.&nbsp; And he <i>knows Jo, my Stanley based tour representative!&nbsp; He's great beacuse at one point the old boy corrects my watch.&nbsp; I'd put it foward four hours for Madrid and Len pointed out that I should have wound it on six!&nbsp; Two remaining hours of the inexpicably long flight vanished just vanished.&nbsp; Anyway, it's a small world, and 13 hours later we'd traversed it again.&nbsp;&nbsp;
]]> Heading South — Santiago, Santiago, Chile http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210435560/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210435560/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210435560/tpod.html Wed, 14 May 2008 12:39:14 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Santiago, Santiago, Chile

Woke feeling fine and had coffee and roll with Antoine.&nbsp; Transfer to airport organised and I say my goodbyes to Roberto.&nbsp;&nbsp; I leave my calling card in the form of some low level grafitti designed to be read by anyone waking in the courtyard after one of the notorious BBQs.&nbsp; My flight flight to Santiago is at 3pm.&nbsp; It was put back from 2.55am so I am hoping that my onward ticket to Madrid tomorrow has been updated accordingly.&nbsp; The transfer arrives a few minutes early and I'm caught packing my bags in the dorm.&nbsp; Soon I'm heading north, towards the town's modern airport.&nbsp; Arica is only 19km from the Peruvian border and the airport itself only a few km shy of that point.&nbsp; The driver of the minivan checks in at a customs point before performing a U turn and taking a right turn to the terminal.&nbsp; A copious amount of water is downed before I pass through security - i have now learned that the plane is a stopping service - Santiago via Iquique and Copiapo!&nbsp; So thats why the three hour flight will take four and a half hours.&nbsp; Once on bard we are informed, to a chorous of Chilean groans, the the plane has technial issues and will be delayed for at least forty minutes.&nbsp; The decision to down the water now seems ill advised and consequemtly I'm very&nbsp; grateful when we are given the opportunity to disembark for a few minutes.Finally we reboard and eventiually take off about 90 minutes later than scheduled.&nbsp; I'm not the world's greatest flyer so the prospect of two extra landings doesn't appeal but the journey to Santaiago is uneventful and we arrive shortly before 9pm.&nbsp; We've had coffee en route and two of the now very familiar 'Moment de un Snack' boxes from LAN Chile containing the same peanuts, brownie and biscuit as ever.&nbsp; I can't face the second one now and save it for some future snack based emergency.The transfer to La Casa Roja is swift, although with a different operator and I'm soon being greeted by Irish Mark at reception.&nbsp; After dropping my stuff upstairs I head for the bar.&nbsp; It's getting towards 10pm and I need a beer.&nbsp; The bar itself is empty apart from the American barman who is watching a DVD of <i>Charlie Wilson's War on the the big screen.&nbsp; He tells me its only 5 minutes in so I decide to join him.&nbsp; After the film finishes the bar begins to fill and he is DJ ing from a laptop whilst serving beers to the new arrivals.&nbsp; The evening deteriorates into drinking games, instigated by Australians as I recall, but I manage&nbsp; to dodge these as I know its my last night and I have a 9am transfer to the airport.&nbsp; In fact I only down two large bottles of Escudo all night and finish with two fruit juices. "Mate. Don't suppose you've got anything <i>non alcoholic in your fridge?".&nbsp;Its still nudging 3am by the time I turn in but this is La Casa Roja after all.&nbsp; I say goodnight to those in the&nbsp; bar immediately around me but dodge Jason, Mark and others I know as they would surely cajole me into staying up.
]]> Through The Centre — Yulara, Australia http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1202851380/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1202851380/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1202851380/tpod.html Sat, 10 May 2008 12:35:20 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Yulara, Australia

Woke early to catch the sunrise and to drink in the isolation of the place. We are camped about 500m into the Northern Territory (I can see the SA border sign if I cross the low hill opposite and squint). I am loving life but feeling slightly sad as&nbsp;it occurs to me that we will not be camping at such a remote location again on this trip. Today is also the halfway point of the tour and the group is really gelling.&nbsp;It´s a cliche but we are starting to behave like a&nbsp;big,&nbsp;slightly disfunctional,&nbsp;family. And thats grand.&nbsp;Soon it's time to roll up the swags and head off. Or as Macka&nbsp;would put it "OK lets get the&nbsp;f*** out of here".The roads are noticably worse in the Territory and we are all slowly shaken to bits as we head NW from the Simpson Desert towards the centre of the universe (well the centre of Australia).&nbsp;Gravel slowly turns to red sand&nbsp;and soon we are navigating through a&nbsp;maze of narrow tracks and I am in awe of&nbsp;Macka's&nbsp;navigation skills as out of nowhere&nbsp;we are at Lambert's Centre - the very centre of the Oz.&nbsp; The tripod structure marking the geographic centre of the country&nbsp;is a small relation of it's big brother in Canberra. The&nbsp;flag on the mast is in tatters - Macka declares it be f***** and is perceptively really quite embarresed by this&nbsp;display of national pride. So if anyone in authority is reading this. GET A NEW FLAG for Lambert's Centre.We slip and slide our way back to the main road -&nbsp;that is to say a wider, straighter&nbsp;track. We follow this for two hours, with a halfay stop for a brew&nbsp;where the road drops into a floodway, a dry creek with red river gums fior shade&nbsp;- "How Austalian is this!" says Macka as he puts the billy can onto the&nbsp;hastily improvised fire - his sense of national pride restored. Even though its remote I find a PET bottle dumped in the&nbsp;creek&nbsp;when taking a pee. I dutifully litter pick and bring it back to show Macka.&nbsp;"That's f*****".&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;There is a short stop as we cross the new Ghan railway.&nbsp; We get a few minutes of facts and figures, number of sleepers etc,&nbsp;as the car straddles the track before pushing on.We&nbsp;finally hit the blacktop at Kulgara roadhouse. After a mandatory picture of a Stuart Highway roadsign bearing&nbsp;a big number I&nbsp;head to the roadhouse. Unable to find&nbsp; Big Dobber or other simliarly amusingly named ice cream I make do with a Mango and Cream bar - "it's nice" (in a Borak voice).&nbsp;We are soon speeding up the Stuart Highway -&nbsp;driving the whole 3000km would require several boxes of matches.&nbsp;After 80km we turn left and head to&nbsp;the Lassetter Highway W towards Yulara resort - another 244km away.&nbsp;The resort is tastefully located 15km form&nbsp;Uluru (Ayers Rock) - but&nbsp;ALWAYS Uluru to Macka. We&nbsp;have a covered area with a kitchen - imagine a large bus shelter with hot and cold running water and you've got the picture. There&nbsp;is a pool - bliss. At sunset we climd a&nbsp;small dune to watch the sun set&nbsp;over the Olgas. And guess what... The silhouette looks just like Homer Simpson laying down!Everyone except me sleeps on the tarp&nbsp;- I choose a spot on the sand about&nbsp;30 feet&nbsp;away. There is another&nbsp;tour group at the next bus shelter and thay make such a racket I put my headphones on to help me sleep. We have a 5am wake up too - lovverly.I walk barefoot to the loo in the middle of the night where I meet my first dealy spider, a redback. It scurries under the urinal and suddenly I wish I had shoes for the walk back to my swag.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
]]> Finally Into Town — Arica, Chile http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210282200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210282200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210282200/tpod.html Sat, 10 May 2008 12:11:07 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Arica, Chile

Lazy morning then afternoon meal in centre with Irish crowd. Ate at Cafe del Mar - excellent Ensalata de Mar dish - advocado rice with seafood - one of the best dishes of the whole trip.&nbsp; Walked around Plaza and below El Morro cliff.&nbsp; Will climb tomorrow.Evening few drinks with Kim (UK) and Daniel (Irl) then watched Borat movie before crashing out.
]]> Arica: The Writing´s On The Wall — Arica, Chile http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210160700/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210160700/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210160700/tpod.html Sat, 10 May 2008 12:06:08 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
Arica, Chile

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]]> Shattered In San Pedro — San Pedro de Atacama, Chile http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210093440/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210093440/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/shaunb/1/1210093440/tpod.html Wed, 07 May 2008 17:43:39 -0400 Wrong Way Round - Dodging The Winter
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile


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