roamingjodi's TravelStream™ — Recent TravelPod.com entries TravelStream™ news feed for member roamingjodi on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/roamingjodi en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Wed, 08 Apr 2009 17:12:31 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com The eagle has landed..... — Boquete, Panama http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1239221460/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1239221460/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1239221460/tpod.html Wed, 08 Apr 2009 17:12:31 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Boquete, Panama

Dios Mio!

What a trip. I officially passed the one year mark of travel OUTSIDE the United States on January 7th. It is very difficult to wrap my brain around that on so many different levels. How fortunate I am to have had such an amazing experience.

I am a little over two months back in Boquete, after my first return visit to the US (Miami) in over a year. I spent three weeks, mostly in the Miami area because I needed to get a serious friend fix, and to goose up my supplies before venturing back to the wilds of Panama and Team Jodi did not disappoint. Danny and Michal (relocated from Atlanta to Miami about six months ago) have been incredibly welcoming and I feel fortunate to have their friendship. We have eaten and laughed quite a bit (exactly what I needed) and I am enjoying my time with their three fabulous dogs as well. Pets are not a huge part of the Central American experience, and as many of you know, I like me a good dose of dog and cat every now and then. The weather has been perfect and the beach is within walking distance from the house. It has been 25 years since I have been in Miami, and I am enjoying my stay here tremendously. Danny and Michal's generosity and love got me through a few really tough days, as re-entry has not been as easy as you might think. I couldn't have done it without them.

I also got a quick three day visit in with Barbara Jean who came down from Boston to her family's condo on Jupiter Island. As many of you know, shopping is not one of my favorite activities, but Barbara a "professional shopper" was tremendous helping me locate all the things I needed to acquire while stateside. You saved my ass big time Babs....thanks.

And Bill Hartman in Vegas pulled through by sending my laptop along to me. It has been resting comfortably in a closet in his lovely home since I left the states. What an enormous relief THAT is. Plus, my iPod was in the computer bag with the laptop. Big mistake not taking that with me! What the hell was I thinking there? Reunion with that tiny little piece of machinery brought on a full out dance party with the youngest Miami dog, Teddy, in the living room on 95th Street. Hey, a girl has got to do what a girl has got to do.

The Christmas and New Year holidays were spent with the Donoso family at Palmira Springs Hotel, my home away from home in Panama. I thoroughly enjoyed my time with the family and their extended group of friends. The food was spectacular, the company terrific and the laughs plentiful. I at the best turkey of my life on Christmas day, prepared by our resident Peruvian, Tito. Four months later I am still talking about it. What more could a girl ask for....oh ya....the weather was fabulous too.

Summer has hit full stride in Boquete. The weather is perfect, a little windy which I am told is "normal," but quite lovely. Before leaving for the States I had been spending quite a bit of time with Katarina perfecting recipes for her little take out restaurant and we have had not only lots of fun, but great success as well. I am so grateful for her time and friendship now, and look forward to us collaborating on some things in the future.

Recovery of the shoulder is going well. It is, after all, the reason I came back here after my 10 day stint in Panama City...to rest and recover. I am doing everything possible to keep that moving in a positive direction. Not perfect yet, but substantially better. I am working with an awesome physio-thereapist here named Rene Estribi and I am getting stronger every day.

So, I have been trying to figure out what next for me. Boquete has captured my attention in ways I never expected and it looks like this is where I will be staying indefinitely. One thing is for sure, it is time for me to stop moving around so much and for me to start thinking about getting settled in somewhere for a bit. While travel is fabulous, I need to have some stability for a while. Besides, as many of you know I am a bit of a worker bee. After almost two years without work, I am itching to get my hands busy.

I am currently back at The Hotel with Cesar's sister, Ellie: her husband, Tito, and Osbaldo. I must admit, it felt good to return to a place with welcoming friends. I am very comfortable here. Business is slow mostly because the place is new, and I am going to enjoy the quiet and familiarity of being around folks I like. None of the folks speak English so I am back in that mode again too. Got to handle up on that a bit more quickly. When the summer season winds down and the snow birds start heading North again, I am going to look for a house sitting situation to carry me through to the next season. As I try and make a decision about where in Boquete I want to live (believe it or not, depending on your altitude things change in this little town rapidly) living in houses in a few different spots will be a great way to figure it all out.

Since my return to the hotel (and a kitchen THANK YOU JESUS) I am amidst a cooking extravaganza. I spent 5 weeks on a raw food cleanse and dropped 15 "rice and beans" pounds quickly. Gawd, that feels good. I am also enjoying the abundance of amazing fresh fruits and vegetables available. Boquete is in Chiriqui Province, the bread basket of Panama, and I am LOVIN' the prominity of amazing cooking ingredients. I have found a few local organic farmers and am rapidly expanding my connections there. I also have a new friend with an unbelievable hydroponic operation where I buy my fresh lettuces and herbs. When I bitched about not being able to get kale anywhere, she said, "I've got seed. I'll grow it if you buy it." She has no idea how much I love kale. She won't be able to keep up with my demand but I told her to go ahead and get to growin' it. Okay, okay, okay....I know....I on the food topic again. I'll stop. But I feel so incredibly fortunate to be surrounded by such fabulous stuff.

Okay, one more food thing....just one..... Zarzamora..... I had no idea what it was and while up in Volcan with Cesar and Olivia we stopped at a little local restaurant for breakfast. Cesar was excited that they had this "juice" and I jumped in too. Why not? Oh MY GAWD. Y'all.... fresh blackberry juice. No lie. Then they took me to this little roadside stand that they sold what they referred to as "strawberries and cream". (By the way, this altitude is conducive to year round berry production...strawberry, raspberry and blackberry). What it was was a mixture of berries in sugar placed in the bottom of the cup. What was put on top is what they call "natilla" here. The best way to describe it is it was like a cheesecake flavored fresh homemade pudding. HOLY CRAP WAS IT DELICIOUS. I'll make the 4 hour round trip drive for that again in a heartbeat.

I have a few ideas I am working on to generate some money and busy work for me. Having the laptop makes organizing these things so much easier. Thank you again Bill Hartman. On day 5 of being back I was out networking, shaking hands and trying to make some new connections outside of the ones I already have. It was nice to be happily welcomed back by the shop owners where I buy my stuff, and for the first time in along time I am somewhere I feel really good and comfortable and familiar The fit, as far off as it is from where I was expecting my life to be, just feels right. So I stay and see what I can make happen for myself here. It is nice to have the flexibility to be open to the suggestion of something other than what I was looking for. I feel incredibly fortunate.

It is not likely I will continue this blog in the format I have been pursuing. I will probably make quarterly updates with photos so everyone outside of my physical world can keep track of my activities. I have so enjoyed the notes and comments I have received during this past year. How fortunate I am to have so many great people not only rooting for me, but willing to be a compassionate ear when I hit a rough spot or two. I hereby extend an open invitation to anyone willing to make the trek to Panama. I promise I will make it worth your while....promise, promise, promise..... Thanks again for all your interest and support in my crazy little world. You have all contributed in many ways to the success I am now enjoying in my life. Mil gracias amigos.

I'm lovin' you from here!!!
]]> Boquete for a second time — Boquete, Panama http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1229970900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1229970900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1229970900/tpod.html Mon, 22 Dec 2008 13:57:57 -0500 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Boquete, Panama

Feliz Navidad!

The Christmas holiday is suddenly upon us and again I am enjoying it in the warm weather. For the last 4 years I have been fortunate enough to share the Christmas holiday with my good friend Bill Hartman and his lovely wife Toni Hood in Las Vegas and will miss them terribly this year. It was a tradition I had hoped would continue until one of us eventually succumbed to the indulgence of pork and Little Debbie snack cakes that we so greedily imbibe in every year. This year it will be rice, beans and chicken.....the standard Panamanian meal, but somehow I will muddle through it.

After my last post I had the good fortune of catching a ride to Panama City with Cesar Donoso, a friend of the family that I stayed with during my Spanish classes in Boquete. Cesar is a pilot for the Canal and lives with his family in Panama City, but recently bought a small hotel in Boquete and travels there almost every weekend in an effort to get it up and running. Cesar was very kind and invited me to spend my first night in Panama City with his family at their home and I enjoyed it tremendously. He and his wife Olivia have three lovely children (Cesar, Jr. 18, Sara 16 and Diana 10) and they live about ½ hour outside the city. The ride from Boquete to Panama City was about 7.5 hours and it was a good opportunity for me to learn quite a bit about Panama from a native's perspective. Cesar is fluent in English and I gathered lots of info during the trip.

The next day Olivia dropped me off in the Casco Viejo section of the city and I was amazed at how much it looked like the French Quarter in New Orleans. The area is in the process of being rehabbed and has some not so great areas, and some really spectacular ones. I opted out of that particular neighborhood after view available hotel rooms. Not one felt safe.

I cabbed it to another section of town and found a room that eventually became my home for the next 10 days. I suffered some sort of shoulder injury and decided it was time to shut down for a bit and rest my aging body. For two days I couldn't lift my left arm at all.....so it was lots of bad television in my air conditioned hotel room. My arm eventually improved but I did not want to push it so I basically spent the next 10 days sleeping late, watching bad tv, writing, and walking around the city. Panama City is frenetic, dirty, huge and from all accounts very unsafe for locals and tourists as well. I decided to keep a low profile. The traffic is horrendous, and I was repeatedly told that cabs were unsafe as drivers of many would rob their own fares. Yikes!

I did do a bit of walking around the city. Hit a few malls and felt like I was in anywhere America. But, I did find my favorite brand of under wear and had a party because I was so excited about finding them. I was overdue to replace the ones I had but had been having difficulty finding ones with a proper "fit". It is the little things you learn to miss when on the road. I also went to an interesting lecture with an expat group and met a woman originally from New Orleans that had been living in Panama for 25 years. She knew one of my NOLA clients very well. Small world for sure.

As soon as I felt better, I decided to fly, that's right fly, back to Boquete for an extended rest. My last day in Panama City I was walking down one of the main streets and I heard someone call my name. Not a common occurrence for me. I was happy when I turned to look and I saw Cesar driving in his truck. He pulled over and we chatted for a bit. It was decided that I would stay in his hotel in Boquete when I arrived. I was thrilled because business is a bit slow for him now and he told me I could use the kitchen to cook in. I don't think I need to explain to any of you here what that means to me. I am SO TIRED of road food. I was desperate for a few weeks of healthy salads and such, so I happily agreed and have been comfortably entrenched in the Palmira's Spring Hotel since.

I was greeted with a big hug and a kiss out front by Osvaldo, the handiest guy I have ever met. He works for Cesar at the hotel doing all sorts of construction projects and is literally a work horse when it comes to getting things done. Very impressive. Then Amelia who I had also met on my last trip was there with big hugs as well. I got settled in quickly and made my way to town to load up the fridge.

So, most of my days have been spent resting, doing research on the internet (job hunting mostly), writing, reading, and spending time with my Slovakian friend, Katarina. She is married to the son of Maria and Jeff Moss and recently opened a little take out restaurant with a very limited menu. She has little experience with food preparation and I have been teaching her some of the things I know about food. We get along great and being in town gives me an opportunity to network a bit.

I also traveled with Katarina and her husband's cousin, Nano, to an area on the Pacific Coast called Santa Cruz where she and her husband, Pedro, recently purchased a second home in need of renovation. It was a good opportunity for me to see some more of the country and get a look at what your money can but. I enjoyed that as well. I could have done without the sand fly bites, but you cannot have it all.

So the plan now is this.... I will spend the holidays with Cesar's family at the hotel. They are all arriving today for a two week period, and I suspect there will be plenty to keep me busy. They last came the weekend I arrived and I set up a project with the kids to decorate Christmas bulbs with paint and glitter. You cannot knock that gaudy part of NOLA out of my personality. I will continue to look for work, and try and take a few day trips with the family. Hopefully, in a few weeks I will feel confident with my shoulder and make a plan for what is next. I have to leave the country in mid January as my 90 day visa expires and needs to be renewed. It is a simple "get out of the country for 4 days and then come back" situation, nothing complicated, and I am making plans for that as well. What happens after that has yet to be determined.

I will post again sometime after the first of the year. A happy, healthy and prosperous new year to you all. May the coming year be a time when you realize all of your wildest dreams.

All the best!
]]> Panamanian Highlands — Boquete, Panama http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1226689320/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1226689320/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1226689320/tpod.html Fri, 14 Nov 2008 14:34:13 -0500 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Boquete, Panama

Well, I hit a significant anniversary this week. It was one year ago that I began this adventure when I got in my car and began my two month drive across the US. It is hard for me to wrap my brain around the fact that I have been traveling for an entire year. I feel so incredibly fortunate to have had this opportunity and am grateful every day for what I am able to enjoy.

I ended up spending 2 ½ weeks in Bocas and enjoyed it quite a bit. But I will not lie, I was getting a bit bored and needed to get moving. The last few days I was there I met an interesting Cuban American guy named Pablo, who is on a similar mission to mine...exploring possibilities for re-locating to Panama. So we shared some information, (he actually has an old colleague of his that lives in Bocas) hung out a few days, and practiced our Spanish and English. It was great for me, because it forced me to step up to the plate with my Spanish...I had become muy floja( very lazy). I have included some photos from the Independence Day Parade in Bocas.

Eventually I made a loose plan to head towards David, about 4 hours south of Bocas to consider my next move. David is the second largest city in Panama, and I was interested in a day or two there and then easy transport connections from there to other areas. This is where the Western Highland area of Panama begins from the South, and I had heard great things in general about the area. There is a small town called Boquete about 1 hour north of David, and I decided to check it out for a day or two. It was not really in my plans to spend too much time here, but it has been a week now and I am thrilled that I made the stop. I could very easily get comfortable here and quickly, even though there are no beaches, but before I start to grow any roots, I am going to check out some of the other areas of Panama that my research has enticed me to see.

I just finished a week of Spanish classes today and I had a great teacher. I took private lessons, an indulgence I thought I needed to have, and learned a ton of stuff. Christian was an excellent teacher(Spanish by the River, Boquete). I also took a huge leap and decided to do a home stay with a family in an effort to really entrench myself in the language, and I ended up hitting the jackpot. I will never be this lucky again with a home stay, I know that for sure.

Maria and Jeff are sixtyish and live in a huge house that sort of functions as a B & B, but they take some students in as well. My room with private bathroom was nicer than any hotel I have stayed at in months, plus I had use of this incredibly rambling and comfortable house with multiple inside and outdoor sitting areas complete with impeccable gardens. It included breakfast and dinner every day and my interaction with the extended family that came and went during the day was fabulous. They were so kind and welcoming it renewed my faith in people. It CERTAINLY left a positive impression on me and my Panamanian experience.

I cooked dinner last night for 7, New Orleans Style BBQ Shirmp, and it was a huge success. It felt good to be in the kitchen, and I was happy to be able to give Señora Maria a night off. She works hard, but never shows it. It is a good reminder to me how much patience and grace you need to have when you decide to open your house up to tourists as paying guests. It is something I have been considering for quite a while, and watching her do it was a good lesson in doing it the right way.

I decided to head out on Sunday when my week ends to check out four more areas in the country. But get this...I am not writing this location off yet. I might return, even if it is a bit cool (and sometimes outright cold) because the vibe here is so great and it is so incredibly beautiful. The air is so clean and fresh and there is an incredible mix of flora and fauna here. There are both tropical and highland environmental influences and outdoor activity, especially during this part of the year, is excellent. There is an interesting mix of people as well. Plus, the coffee is like magic. It is a MAJOR crop in this area.

So, I will poke around Panama for a bit longer, but I am not going to lie--I am tired. As glamorous as long term travel sounds, it is very exhausting. I am ready to put roots down for a bit, even if it is only for 3 - 6 months. Plus I really am ready to work and finding a unique opportunity for working "illegally" may not be as easy as it sounds. Labor is really cheap in Panama, really cheap, so you have to work hard to find the right situation. But, I am not giving up yet. I have just started to put my networking skills into play and suspect that in the not too distant future, an opportunity will present itself and I can settle in for a bit.

Keep me in mind as the nasty winters up North get you increasingly frustrated. Warmer climates are here in Panama, and I would love a visitor or two, or three....... I will check in again in a few weeks.

Besos.
]]> Finally....Bocas — Bocas del Toro, Panama http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1225316040/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1225316040/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1225316040/tpod.html Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:50:11 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Bocas del Toro, Panama

Well, as many of you know, I have been wanting to get to Bocas del Toro, Panama for quite some time. I arrived about 10 days ago and have enjoyed myself thoroughly. What a spectacularly beautiful area.

The trek across the border from Cosa Rica was VERY interesting. Border crossing in general are stressful, for many reasons. One for me is that I do not have an onward ticket which is technically required to enter almost any country on the planet. I cannot provide proof that I am actually leaving the country so I never know what I am going to find when I arrive. Second, is that there are vultures (usually disguised as fast talking men) vying for your confused and tired ass, hoping to coerce you into some outrageously expensive transport you really don't need. It is VERY annoying. I eventually get to the "shut the fuck up stage" every time.

This one in particular was difficult for me because I have a little vertigo. I can and have jumped out of a plane, but like standing on a ladder freaks me out sometimes. So having to walk across a very narrow and very worn old trestle bridge (with huge GAPING holes in it) that spanned a river created some "issues" for me. Needless to say, when I arrived at the other side and the little barking men started in on me, I wanted to hit one of them.

After various negotiations, a group of us got into a van and drove for about 30 mintues to Changuinola to catch a boat to Bocas. What a great boat ride. High speed through a waterway lined with the largest palm trees and bamboo I have ever seen in my life. Great fun. When we broke into open water you could see the mountains and big puffy white clouds from the mainland behind us as we crossed towards the main Bocas island of Isla Colon. Just terrific.

I landed an awesome room in a hostel called Hansi, and got settled in quickly. Bocas Town is compact and easily traversed on foot. If you don't like the sun or water based activities, DO NOT COME HERE. There is nothing else to do other than the beach, water and relaxing. I lied, you could rent a bike, but that is IT. The culture is a mix of indigenous folks peppered with a VERY STRONG Afro Caribbean population. I love to listen to that lilt.

I went on an amazing boat tour last Wednesday that rivaled anything like it I have ever done before. The waters surrounding this place are amazingly clean and clear. Visibility is outrageous. And, because it is still a bit off the beaten path, there are yet many signs of pollution and excessive harm to marine life. The coral and reef areas were like nothing I have ever seen and filled with amazing colors and textures. We hit two separate snorkeling locations, visited (and saw) Dolphin Bay, spent two hours at Red Frog beach, and had lunch at an outrageously beautiful and remote restaurant on docks over very calm waters. Paradise for sure.

I also have done a bus trip to Bocas del Drago to see starfish beach. See attached photos. Outrageous. When you look I the clear water as far as the eye can see are these amazing starfish. I also saw huge red rays come right up to the water´s edge. There is very little on this Northern side of the island, and during this slow season it feel like you have the entire place to yourself. The stuff travel magazines just love.

Life is live here out over the water. Docks abound everywhere. Some with restaurants, hotels and night clubs. Water taxi is the chosen method of transportation. I have ventured to Isla Carneros and out to Bocas marina using them and they are cheap and efficient.

But, the rainy season hits here hard in November and December so I think I will be pulling up stakes in the next few days and heading to the Pacific Coast where drier times await. I don't mind rain, but don't need two months of it. Besides, I think I am going to be here in Panama for a while, so before I decide where to land, I want to check some more places out.

I will be heading into cooler weather in the highlands when I leave here....David and Bouquete....for a few days then onto the Pacific Coast. Will update again in a few weeks.
]]> S-W-E-E-T Cahuita! — Cahuita, Province of Limon, Costa Rica http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1224196080/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1224196080/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1224196080/tpod.html Fri, 17 Oct 2008 10:42:12 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Cahuita, Province of Limon, Costa Rica

Sweet Jesus. Finally! I am at a REAL beach!

I left San Jose 4 days ago and stopped first in Limon, the largest port in Costa Rica. The ride through yet another enormous state park from San Jose to the Coast was beautiful. Then when you hit the other side of the mountains, flat like a pancake for as far as the eye could see. This is agriculture territory. Unbelievable. I saw pineapple fields that ran for 20 minutes of solid driving. Then bananas for the same amount of time. They export something crazy like 280 million bunches of bananas annually from Limon. It is likely I saw the next banana that will be on your morning cereal. Mind boggling.

Limon was an interesting little town and easy to cover in one day. The feel of the place reminded me a bit of both Zihuantenajo and Old Acapulco. The architecture was mostly concrete construction with a little creole influence every few blocks. The mix of people was amazing as well. Chinese, Black and Europeans like San Jose. I heard an older woman talking outside my hotel room and finally had to get up to take a peak. She was Chinese and speaking in Spanish with that clipped Asian accent we usually associate with Cantonese. Hysterical. It was like a scene out of a bad movie.

I got the scoop on the canceled Carnival. Yes, they had trash concerns, but mostly as they related to lingering trash and the spread of dengue fever. They just don't have the money or capacity to deal with those issues as easily as a city like NOLA does. It is unfortunate, because I think the town could benefit greatly from the economic hit of an event like that. Plus, I would have had a great time if I got to shake what my momma gave me a bit. I am JONESING for some live music.

After one night in Limon I got on a bus and headed out early for Cahuita. About 10 minutes out of Limon we hit long stretches of amazing Caribbean beaches and it was like I was re-born. They were spectacularly beautiful and deserted. Less than an hour later I was there...home to Cahuita National Park. It is the first time I have gotten off a bus anywhere since leaving the US where I was not bombarded with people trying to sell me things or help me find a hotel. Amazingly refreshing. This is a great little laid back town. Come now, before the rest of the world shows up and ruins it.

Cahuita is a town completely dependent on the business from the park. And the views from the water and across the bay are spectacular. Jungle running right up to the shoreline. Zero development throughout the park. And, because we are out of the hurricane zone here, the palm trees and almond trees that line the coast are of monstrous proportion. They are FILLED with monkeys too. The first day I entered the park on foot it took only about 3 minutes for me to spot my first Howler monkeys. Then not long thereafter, more. And then some Capuchins that got right up close and personal with us (see photos). There were birds, blue land crabs and lush vegetation. On one end of town is Playa Negra (black beach) and on the other Playa Blanco (white beach) and everything in between is Caribbean inspired, lush and tropical. Most of the tourists here are Europeans....lots of German and French overheard.

Today I took a boat out onto the water portion of the park, and went snorkeling. The reef itself wasn't very colorful, but the fish were spectacular. And the brain coral were huge. I am glad I made the effort. It was well worth the trip.

So one more stop in Costa Rica before slipping into Panama on Saturday. This has been a long time coming and I look forward to it tremendously. I had been feeling a little beat up of late and was wondering if I needed a break from the third world. No. What I needed was the beach. A real beach. I have been inland for 4 months. I am like NEW MONEY now that I have gotten back to a good shoreline. I don't plan on settling for anything less than this anytime soon. S-WEET CAHUITA thanks for saving me.
]]> Coasta Rica - Rain rich country — San Jose, Costa Rica http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1223904660/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1223904660/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1223904660/tpod.html Mon, 13 Oct 2008 10:23:25 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
San Jose, Costa Rica

Greetings,

I am in San Jose, Costa Rica and have been in the general vicinity for almost three weeks now. Just before here, I spent two very unmemorable nights in San Pedro Sula, Honduras. Boy, I though Guatemala had some rough spots.

On my way from the Northernmost Caribbean coast inland to San Pedro Sula to catch my flight to CR, I saw the largest area of squatters I have ever witness with my own two eyes. It was so sad. Row after row of lean twos made of limbs, torn pieces of plastic and odd shaped pieces of corregated tin. Tragic. Then not a half a mile away, a long busy and beautiful highway filled with typical big box American stores. All my reading indicates times are tough in Honduras and have been for a long time. They have something crazy like a 40% unemployment rate. It explains the visual presence of armed men everywhere in the city. EVERYWHERE. There are men with metal detectors and guns outside of pizza parlors. One bank I went to even had a locker system at the entrance of the facility with armed guards. You could not even bring a bag into the bank with you. You had to put everything into a locker in the lobby before entering. Crazy.

And ALL, and I mean all, the American fast food chains were represented. Even Popeyes. I have never seen a Popeyes outside of the US before. Never. I was flabbergasted. The long arm of America.....

So my flight to Costa Rica was quick and uneventful, and I landed by mid morning to venture out and find a place to stay. What an adventure. Advice....NEVER rent a car in Costa Rica. Never. There are no street signs anywhere in the country, let alone the Capital city. Trying to navigate with a street map was near impossible. I would walk into store fronts and ask folks what street I was on and the employees didn't even know the name of the street. THAT freaked me out. The cops scratched their heads when I stopped and asked what street corner I was on. It took me two hours of walking around with 50lbs of my life on my back to finally find a place to stay. San Jose has some good room deals, but you have to work hard to find them as there is lots of crap too.

I landed in a hostel called Casa Ridgeway which sat amazingly on a dead end street at the East end of town. Cheap, clean, private rooms and close to everything I needed. Many of you know I had decided to have my annual medical visits while here in Costa Rica and I bravely jumped in with both feet. I had gotten a referral from some friends in Guate for a dermatologist and made an appointment to see her two days after I arrived. It was a strained phone conversation making the appointment, because of language issues, and I decided to wait until I arrived to make the rest. I am much better understanding people when I can see them talk, than when I am trying to listen over the phone.

I realized after arriving that the dermatologist was at a clinic frequented by North American just walking distance from where I was staying. So, on day two I hoofed it over to the clininc to see if I could get some other referrals. Amazing, in the lobby, they had an international department and I marched right in. I told them what I wanted and by the end of that day, I had appointments with two other English speaking doctors before the week was out. Amazing, efficient and priced right. I also found a dentist en route and made an appointment to have my teeth cleaned later on THAT day. Within 4 days of arriving I had had all my appointments, tests and cleanings and the grand total for EVERYTHING was $400 US dollars. So much easier when you leave insurance companies out of the mix.

But, I needed to stick around for results, and to see if all the skin tags the dermatologist froze on my body fell off in the allotted two weeks time. No sense leaving the country if I need to come back and see them again. So, I made it my business to check out the city a bit, take some day trips just outside of San Jose and to catch up on some reading and writing.

The highlight of the day trips was to Volcan Poas about 2 hours Northwest of San Jose. My first volcano did not disappoint. The cloud forest surrounding it was amazing and rich with dripping wet green everything. Quite lovely. The altitude of 4600 feet was a little bit for me to adjust to while hiking, but I prevailed and enjoyed the day. The downside....it was damn cold. I haven't been that cold since I was in the mountains of Chiapas, Mexico. Holy shit. And when it started to rain later in the day, I was really miserable. 50 "wet" degrees is too damn cold for me. I was happy to get back into the Central Valley by days end if for nothing more than to just warm up. It was about 20 degrees warmer in San Jose. There was lots of interesting agricultural things to see along the way and I was not at all bored with the drive.

Coffee, coffee everywhere coffee is growing in and around the Central Valley. And it is is good coffee. Really good coffee. They have these cool things called chorriadors which I have included a photo of herein. Natural fabric coffee filters that you fill with fresh ground coffee and then pour boiling water over and then it drips into a vessel below. Very cool. Very yummy. I like my coffee really hot so this suits me well.

I went to a really cool butterfly exibit at the National Museum and have included a few photos here as well. The blue morpho butterfly is truly amazing to see up close and in person. It is brown on the outside with all those cool looking eye like features, and then inside it is ELECTRIC/METALIC blue. Quite a sight. I also went to the jade museum and enjoyed that too. There were many similar items on display but what I enjoyed most was being able to see the varying colors of jade side by side. Some of the pieces were blue and that I had never experienced before.

I also went to Cartargo which was at one time the capital of Costa Rica. There is a church there where people pilgramage to once a year to see La Negrita. An tiny black virgin statue said to have healing powers. The church was exceptionally beautiful, especially the stained glass, but I will tell you I was a little taken aback by the visitors the day I was there. They crawled on their knees all the way from the back of the church to alter to pray. Devotion is a very personal thing for sure.

Finally, I went to Jaco this weekend on the Pacific Coast. A complete non event for me. Very touristy and the beach was not very nice, it was dirty and had volcanic sand. I still cannot warm up to the whole black sand thing. This particular part of CR is booming with typical North American developments -- high rise condos and such. I am happy for the locals who are able to make life better for themselves. I say, have at it.

I am heading to the Caribbean Coast tomorrow. I need me some black folks, hot sauce and calypso music. Nothing like a steel drum to set this gal straight. I will update again in the next few weeks.

Gracias por su amor amigos!!!
]]> Heading to Honduras — San Pedro Sula, Honduras http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1221942060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1221942060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1221942060/tpod.html Sat, 20 Sep 2008 16:57:06 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
San Pedro Sula, Honduras

I am finally leaving Guatemala tomorrow and heading just over the border into Honduras to catch a flight to Costa Rica Tuesday morning. My last two weeks here on the Rio Dulce have been very enjoyable and my time spent dog and boat sitting was terrific. I met some really nice people and thoroughly enjoyed my time with Basil, an incredibly lovable and sweet Dalmatian. I was also able to cook on board the boat for two weeks and I feel better than I have in months as a result of that. Eating out every meal of the day for four months has taken it´s toll on me and getting some good and nutritious food into me has paid dividends for sure.

I walked most mornings at 7 a.m. with a really nice group of women and the dog, and it was quite rigorous. I also was able to take a few yoga classes and enjoyed them as well. I have wanted to take classes for a while and was thrilled to be able to finally do that. For the most part the dog and I tried to relax and stay cool from about 11 am on. It has been EXTREMELY hot and by the time our morning activities were over, we were wiped out and stayed as close to a shaded area as possible.

So, for the most part, not lots of news or photos with this post, but I expect that another chapter in my travel will be unfolding over the course of the next week or so. I will update you all in a few more weeks.

Thanks for following my adventure.....
]]> Problems in Central Guatemala — Antigua Guatemala, Western Highlands, Guatemala http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1219861440/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1219861440/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1219861440/tpod.html Tue, 16 Sep 2008 17:04:45 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Antigua Guatemala, Western Highlands, Guatemala

Well, we knew at some point there had to be some less than good news, and that time has finally come. I have decided to keep things brief in this forum, but feel compelled to report things clearly here as someone else might gain some knowledge from hearing about this experience.

Last Friday night, August 22, 2008, I was robbed and assaulted in my hotel room in Antigua, Guatemala. I AM FINE, and re-working my plans for upcoming travel as I have chosen to stay out of some of the higher risk areas right now. Below is a brief outline of what took place.

At the gated and locked front door of my hotel, a man rang the bell and inquired about room availability (approximately between 8:30 and 9:00 pm). After he told the front desk clerk he wanted one of the available rooms, the clerk opened the door and was rushed by men standing out of sight on either side of the front door. They proceeded to tie up 9 people in the lobby and internet café, empty the safe and then move upstairs to what I am assuming was to "clean out" the hotel. They knocked on my door first.

NEVER OPEN YOUR DOOR FOR SOMEONE IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHO IS ON THE OTHER SIDE. They knocked, I asked who it was, they told me it was "servicio" and I told them they had the wrong room. The insisted I open the door. I repeatedly told them no. They walked away and came back 30 seconds later, same scenario. "NO" from me again. I dressed quickly and pulled the curtain next to the door back and saw several figures there, one of which had his hand behind his back....NOT GOOD. I IMMEDIATELY started screaming for help in Spanish at the top of my lungs. Not knowing what had happened down stairs I expected them to take off and help to come quickly. I assumed incorrectly.

I had, as I ALWAYS DO, I asked to see the room when I came to the hotel earlier in the day. Rule 2 for me...never take a room without being sure that the locks all work and it is SECURE. At the time I looked at it, I noticed a sliding window over the door about 15 feet up. It was EXTREMELY high up and would have required a ladder for access. I assumed it was safe. I was wrong.

When I continued to deny them access to the room and CONTINUED to yell for help, they decided to come in through the window OVER the door. Next thing I knew I had a gun in my face and a very UNBALANCED man was insisting that I again, "open the door". When I said NO he whacked me on the top of the head with the butt of his very large pistol. When the blood started to flow rapidly I looked towards my bed and saw my day pack open and my "DAY WALLET" clearly visible. I grabbed it, handed it to him and told him it was all of my money and to go away. STILL....he insisted I open the door while he tried with great difficulty to keep himself balanced over the doorway. He and I both knew that if he fell he was going to fall on his head and likely break his neck. There was no possible way he was getting assistance with stabilization from the other side because he was too far up. He came further down the inside of the door and reached to try and slide the bolt open to let his friends outside in. He was not successful and I will detail why later. Then he pushed himself up and back through the window. Then they tried to kick in the door. I had made a VERY conscientious decision at that point continue to not open the door. I was sure that if I did it was likely they were going to beat the living daylights out of me and rape was probably inevitable. I decided that I would take my chances with the gunshot through the door. I continued to scream for help. After about 30 seconds more of this I heard one of them say the word "police" and they were gone.

So, a few tips here....

One. Keep your money in multiple places. Always have something you are willing to hand over to someone to keep yourself safe. If we have our entire "travel life" in one location (passport, credit cards, license and such) we have a tendency to not want to let go of it. Every morning I pack up a "day wallet" from my big one. It has nothing but the cash I anticipate needing during the day in it. If I need more, I can go into a bathroom and move things around between my wallets, but it makes it easy to have something to hand over to the would be robbers.

Second. Always check out a room before renting it. See above.

Third. Use every single possible way to lock yourself safely inside your room when you return EVERY time. The room I rented had a bolt action lock that took a padlock from both the outside and the inside. When I went into the room that night, I slid the padlock through the hole that aligned between the action on the door and the free arm. I didn´t actually lock the padlock, but because it was hanging through and securing the lock, the robber was not able to slide the door open quickly. This saved my ass big time.

Fourth. As stated above and I cannot stress this enough. NEVER open your door if you are not absolutely certain you know who is on the other side of it.

Fifth. Don´t be afraid to scream for help. This was an unusual situation with the people being tied up down in the lobby. Usually bringing attention to someone who is doing you harm is the best way to dissuade them from continuing.

Sixth. Have a plan. Think about what you would do in this scenario. What decisions would you make? What is your comfort zone for being a victim? Fortunately, I had been in Rio Dulce a few weeks previously when an American cruiser was killed on his on boat after it was boarded by robbers. He fought them and lost his life because he didn´t want to give them what they wanted. I learned a lot from the conversations that ensued around the river after that. Unfortunately he lost his life, but I was prepared to handle the situation I found myself in much better than I would have been had I not contemplated what took place after his demise.

Remember, I expected someone to come running when I started yelling. I DID ALL THE RIGHT THINGS. I had no idea that my potential rescuers were at the time victims themselves. I handed him my money. I made a decision to not open the door when he held the gun in my face after I gave him the money. THAT WAS A PERSONAL DECISION based on what was comfortable with for what I expected to be coming next. I stick to that decision today.

Overall I am terrific, emotionally and physically. The head hurt for a few days but the wound closed up nicely and I am feeling markedly better. I returned to Rio Dulce and Tortugal the day after the attack, wanting to be somewhere where I felt safe and was surrounded with friends. I am still here. I am in the process of re-grouping and will be in touch with y'all before I hit the road again. I feel more confident than ever before that I am prepared for just about anything that might fall in my lap. I am very proud of the way I handled myself under the worst of circumstances. So please....don´t worry about me. This could happen anywhere.....even the "first world"

Besos!!!!!!
]]> I´m baaaaack........ — Fronteras, Guatemala http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1220477340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1220477340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1220477340/tpod.html Wed, 03 Sep 2008 17:48:25 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Fronteras, Guatemala

Well, after the last post, it is time for something positive. Thanks to all the folks who have been reading and responded positively. I hope more are able to benefit from the information I shared, as that was my intent, and I hope it helps you keep yourself safe in the future.

Between my last two posts, there was some fun stuff that happened. I completed my ASA 101 Basic Keelboat Sailing class with flying colors....But not one photo to prove it. We sailed on a Hobie 33 and it was a quite "spirited" boat. No major injuries, I passed the test, and hope to move forward with now getting some more experience under my belt. Hopefully, that is in my immediate future.

The day after I finished my sailing class I was preparing to leave Tortugal, finally, and a bunch of the cruisers threw me a little going away party. It was so heartwarming. I have made some terrific friends here and feel incredibly fortunate to have these new friends in my life. Everyone contributed some food and drinks and I loved watching Ariane as she enjoyed her very first American marshmallow. It was sad that the time had come for me to leave, but I was flattered that they chose to send me off with a party. Thanks to all who were there!

Although my trip to Guatemala City and Antigua was brief, there were some highlights and I want to tell you about them. Guat City was basically a shopping excursion for me, and for many of you out there, you know how much I DISLIKE shopping, so this portion of the trip was laced with a bit of anxiety. But after nearly nine months out of the US the limited clothing and supplies I had needed to be tweeked a bit and it is always easier to do that in a larger city, as opposed to these little villages I have been spending the bulk of my time in recently. Suffice it to say, most of the indigenous folks here are substantially smaller than me and buying clothes has been a complete nightmare....even in Guat City. After two days of running around, chasing my tail, I was able to acquire about 65% of what I had on my list. Oh, what I wouldn´t give for a trip to Macy´s, Target, Kmart (which has great "work" type clothes) and a CVS. I could have cut the time invested in by more than half.

Guat City has some beautiful old Colonial style buildings, and a rich history. I didn´t have time to witness much of that. The thing that stands out the most in my mind is the pollution. It reminded me of being in Havana where they burn some insane combination of gasoline and kerosene. It was horrible. That and the goat herder I say moving his goats through the downtown area. That was bizarre. I got to ride some of the local buses and walked quite a bit. One thing I can say without question about the people in this country is they are incredibly friendly and helpful. It makes me sad that a handful of thieves and robbers are making it so difficult for others to enjoy the warmth that the people here have to offer. Maneuvering the local buses was easy, discerning the stops was not. There was ALWAYS a smiling face and offer of help BEFORE I needed it.

As mentioned in the last post, I had the good fortune of traveling with my new Swiss friends, Ariane and Martin, and we had some really great moments together. They laugh easily and share my passion for food, so we have had no trouble spending time together. Actually, I had had diner with them at an amazing local restaurant just before my attack and we oohed and aahhhed over the food like crack addicts who just got a fix. When I went back to my hotel and was flipping through magazines, I ran into a quote I thought so appropriate for us all from Bernard Shaw, "there is no love more sincere than the love of food". I couldn´t agree more heartily Suffice it to say, we travel well together.

For the better part of two days, we walked the streets of Antigua admiring the architecture and local markets. We ate off the beaten path, and had some great experiences. The photo opportunities in this area are amazing, and I have included quite a few good shots here. As I was intending to spend several more days in Antigua after Martin and Arianne left, I pretty much just followed them around and saw what they wanted to see the first two days and we stumbled onto some great stuff. One was a parade of local students and we had bird´s eye seats as three separate drum groups did these amazing performances for an excited crowd. Us New Orleanians are suckers for a parade and I enjoyed watching the students perform.

We joined Rachael, my English gal pal who was with us many weeks ago in Tortugal, and had a fabulous dinner together. Then, after dinner Rachael took me to a place her new friend from New Orleans owns. Language and cooking school by day and bar at night....Perfect ! We had a lovely visit and planned on continuing our travel together until I had my problems.

When I returned to Tortugal to my room with no doors and windows (basically a tree house) for a sense of better safety, I was welcomed with open arms. The folks here are just so damned nice. Russell the manager and former EMT tended to my head wound. Neville and Catherine Hockley who are stopping over here in Rio Dulce during hurricane season while they wait out their continued circumnavigation (see www.zeroXTE.com) used to joke frequently with me about the amount of time I was sitting in the hammock under the Ranchito (my room) . But as I sat and enjoyed the tranquility of it the day after I returned, Neville came to chat me up about what had happened. He and Catherine extended me an invitation to join them that night on their boat for dinner and I gladly accepted.

Talk about nice....they had a New Orleans music CD in the stereo, an NOLA inspired pasta dish that included chicken and sausage and what we ultimately dubbed "cat poo pie", a concoction of melted marshmallow, chocolate rice crispies, I believe a few corn flakes and colored sprinkles. White trash living at it´s VERY best! Talking about what happened in the safety and comfort of their boat was exactly what I needed and their generous spirit made me feel better and more relaxed about everything. They were so kind in every detail of trying to bring a sense of home to me that night and I will never forget their generosity. Plus, they are damn funny to chat with . He an Englishman and she a lovely Irish lass, share a quick wit and zest for storytelling. It was a terrific evening. Thanks so very much kids.

I had bought a ticket to leave the country on September 8th, and was preparing to fly into Costa Rica and then travel on to Boca del Toro, Panama. But, as things turned out, I received an email yesterday asking me to boat/dog sit for a couple I had met almost 2 months ago at Dietmar´s birthday party. I researched the cost of a ticket change, went and met their dog, and as flexibility continues to rule my world, I am staying on the Rio for another two weeks. I pushed my exit date up to the 23rd and will be moving to a new Mario´s Marina tomorrow to take care of my charge, an adorable Dalmatian named Basil. It will be a great opportunity for me to network with some new cruisers and see what life at a different marina is like. When I toured it yesterday, I stumbled onto some folks I had previously met, and they were very welcoming. I look forward to this experience.

But...here is the deal....I HAVE to be out of Guatemala by the 29th of September when my visa expires so there will be no more delays about leaving. I know many of you are anxious for me to get out of here and it HAS to come sooner than later. Security is good at this new location, and having a dog with me at all times only increases the safety factor.

I will be posting again before I leave the country. Thanks everyone for your continued support from afar. I am loving you from here!
]]> Still lounging on Rio Dulce — Fronteras, Guatemala http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1218751500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1218751500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/roamingjodi/1/1218751500/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 18:19:46 -0400 Roaming Jodi hurls herself onto the open road...
Fronteras, Guatemala

Well....things remain interesting for sure. I am still happy and healthy, and yes.....still in Rio Dulce. Since my last post I have seen a myriad of events. But with my third world living experiences (New Orleans being the most recent) I have been not been rattled by much.

Malaria, a launcha sinking, lightening striking and murder.......hmmmm.....Where shall I start first? I guess with the malaria. No one I know, but a woman who owns a small marina right around the corner from Tortugal contracted the disease a few weeks back. A reminder that I am in the tropics, specifically the jungle, and I need to continue to take precautions. It hasn´t scared me off, only reminded me of the reality of my environment.

Launcha sinking. Took place right in front of our marina one beautiful sunny day about 2 weeks ago. The launcha came to pick some folks up to take them on a day tour to Livingston and the boat, like so many here, was particularly overloaded. As soon as it pulled away from our dock and increased it´s speed, it took on water from over the front bow (swamped) and sank like a rock. There were 10 people on board and luckily they were all rescued. Lots of ruined cameras, passports, cell phones, and such, but thank goodness no fatalities. The staff at Tortugal responded quickly and appropriately and were able to get everyone to safety. Other tourists over the last several years have not been so lucky. Lesson One. Don´t get into a launcha that is overloaded or that doesn´t have life vests (this one had no life vests on board). I am told by the folks who were on the boat that their full day packs got heavy very quickly. If they were further away from shore, the outcome might have been very different.

Lightening strike. I had the good fortune to be asked by my friends, Wolfgang and Barbara to cat/boat sit for 6 days while they made a visa run to Belize. I was thrilled to be asked and quickly jumped at the opportunity. After a full day of learning the ins and outs of the boat and their dinghy (they are docked at a mooring just off the Marina, not on land) I felt confident I could pull this job off. Plus, my friends previously mentioned in this blog, Claudie and Dietmar on Tandem, would be acting as back up if I needed any help. More than anything I was thrilled to be having a kitchen to cook in. Most of you know how I get if I cannot cook for a while......it has been 4months since I cooked a meal for myself and I was thrilled to go shopping and to cook for 6 days.
I got on the boat at about 3 o'clock on a Wednesday afternoon and proceed to get settled in. During the night rain started to fall and I woke up several times. At about 4 am the storm increased and I got up to close the hatches on board. There were several really bright and loud cracks of thunder and lightening and I started to worry because I was entombed in a divining rod with a bed. There was one particularly loud one that scared the crap out of me and then it seemed to roll off and I eventually fell back to sleep after reading for a bit.
At 8 am I woke to Claudie knocking on the side of the boat asking if I was okay. I rustled out of bed, and sat and the cockpit and chatted with her. The particularly loud clap of lightening that scared the crap out of me had actually hit their boat and they have some pretty serious issues on board. Being a fiberglass boat, it handles lightening a little differently than wood and aluminum, and once it enters the boat, it needs to find an exit. It did so in the form of holes in and around the water line on the boat. The boat on the other side of them got residual electricity from their strike, and have ultimately lost about $3,000 worth of equipment. Momo, the boat I was on just 50 feet away.....nothing. Amazing. Tandem quickly got to a marina that could get them out of the water and to dry dockage to assess the damage, and as I have since been told, the bottom of their boat looks like someone took a machine gun to it. Their total damage is too extensive to list here, but suffice it to say it is bad. I am THRILLED and amazed that neither of them were injured. Mother nature comes really close to me yet again.......

Murder. Two nights ago two Alaskan cruisers were attached on their boat anchored about a mile from my marina. The husband died of his injuries, the wife is being flown back to the states today for medical care. They were under anchor, not in a secure area, and from what I understand went to bed without securing the hatch on their boat. Not good. It is like leaving your front door wide open. It is a sad and tragic tale, and to keep it in perspective, the last murder of a tourist/cruiser took place here about 8 years ago. But, this is an area that depends on cruisers to support their economy and the government has responded appropriately and is doing their best to handle things as best they can. Another lesson that violence is worldwide....no matter how far off the beaten path you are, you can fall victim to it.

Be careful what you ask for, you might get it. I wanted to move to a third world country and I am getting a clear picture in a short period of time of the pitfalls that doing so with present to me. But, I lived in NOLA.....crime capital of the world (okay, a bit of an exaggeration, but not far off). I am not easily rattled. My Aunt Mary used to say "you have to give something to get something" and that becomes more clear to me every day. I am, however, not deterred. I am only armed with more information.

I have decided to take a sailing class this weekend and am very excited about it. I will post again when that is completed. Hopefully by month´s end I will be on the road.
Until next post.....BESOS Y'all.



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