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<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:18:06 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Week Thirty Eight - Rotorua &#x2014; Rotorua, New Zealand</title>
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    <pubDate>Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:18:06 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Rotorua, New Zealand</b><br /><br />Week Thirty Eight - The South Island<br><br><br>Day 247 - Tuesday 11 May<br><br>This morning Ian, Elspeth and myself headed over towards the coast for a piece of sightseeing. First we headed North East to Mount Maunganui via Tauranga where we stopped off for some lunch. From there we followed the coast south as far as Whakatane and the lovely Ohope Beach where Elspeth used to live. We drove back to Rotorua via some of the many beautiful lakes surrounding the city as the sun began to fade. I think that my memory is fading and that we actually did this trip on Sunday and the house moving today. Also, this morning Elspeth's friend, June Hicks, kindly ran me into town where I picked up my tickets, got hair cut in Wilson Bros. and bought some flowers for Elspeth. No matter -<br><br>Day 248 - Wednesday 12 May<br><br>Today Ian and Elspeth dropped me down to the airport to fly to Christchurch. Maybe it was tomorrow. Let's pretend it was today. As we approached the airport it was fairly foggy but it didn't look like anything to worry about. The first disaster was that the travel agents had booked my flight for yesterday (or maybe the day before). Secondly, the flight was probably not going to be able to land due to fog. Had my ticket been booked for the right day they could perhaps have transferred me from the Air NZ flight to the Quantas flight via Wellington to CC. It was too late for that but after a frantic call to the travel agents my flight was changed to today's. Sure enough. the flight couldn't land so we were bused to Hamilton and boarded a flight to Wellington then another on to Christchurch. I arrived in CC around 8pm. The Kirra Tours rep was supposed to meet me but wasn't there. I got a taxi anyway to the hotel where I was booked to join the tour leaving tomorrow. My Korean taxi driver turned out to be a keen golfer and gave me his home number to ring him on my return to CC after the tour for a round with either himself of his golf mad wife. At the Pavillions Hotel the rep met me and after apologizing for not meeting me, refunded my taxi fare. I checked into my basic motel room then got a taxi into town. It was raining and I dandered around a few bars before walking back to the hotel and having a few beers in the hotel bar with an Aussie guy.<br><br>Day 249 - Thursday 13 May<br><br>Groggy this morning at breakfast. At the Kirra Tours tables there seemed to be some mistake. This must surely be some pensioners outing. I sat down and ate a nice cooked breakfast then, when I went up for more coffee, I somehow managed to knock over the entire coffee machine. I made a quick exit for a fag before boarding the bus. On board the bus there were 24 other passengers. Most over sixty and some over seventy or eighty. There were Americans, Aussies and Kiwis with a few English and one Israeli woman. All turned out to be very nice although it was disappointing that there was no one my age. As we left Christchurch we each had to go up to the front of the coach and introduce ourselves. Terribly embarrassing. We pass through Canterbury Plains before heading up into the snow capped peaks of the Southern Alps. Past Lake Tekapo and on to Mount Cook National Park, home of the tallest peak in NZ. Unfortunately, the summit was obscured by cloud but I took a walk over to the base of the mountain. From there we went on to Omarama where we stayed overnight in a motel.<br><br>Day 248 - Friday 14 May<br><br>We get wake up calls at 6.15 every morning. Breakfast is at 7 and we leave at 8. We travel on down to Dunedin - the 'Scottish City' which is just like Scotland - bloody freezing. We check into our dowdy motel after lunch and have the rest of the day to ourselves. I walk into town and check out what is on at the cinema. Nothing much, but as I walk out of the cinema I bump into a wee English lady called Liz who Nicola and I met on the bus trip from Melbourne to Sydney. Unbelievable. We only had a quick chat as she was on her way to catch a bus back to CC. I went to the casino in town where the security guard was from Belfast. Had a quick chat with him then, after a quick punt in the casino, went back to bed for 9 after having an Indian dinner.<br><br>Day 249 - Saturday 15 May<br><br>Heading west we make our way  to Lake Manapouri and on to Lake Te Anau. We stop overnight in a remote place called Fiordland National Park Hotel. As everyone else goes to bed straight after dinner I was glad to see a couple of Aussie girls arriving late at the hotel so had a few drinks with them in the bar with the barman.<br><br>Day 250 - Sunday 16 May<br><br>Wake up this morning feeling rough. Sore throat and chest (which I still haven't shaken) and decide to forego the trip over the lake to the glow worm caves. I phone reception and leave a message for the driver and go back to bed. I get up about ten and discover to my horror that today wasn't glow worm day but the trip to Millford Sound, the highlight of my trip. To add further woe the hotel doesn't make food during the day so I have to starve. Also it is a perfectly clear day, perfect for seeing the Sound. I go for a short walk before the rest arrive back at 4 to tell me what I missed.<br><br>Day 251 - Monday 17 May<br><br>Bloody glow worm day. Take ferry across Lake Te Anau to see some worms. In the afternoon the driver/guide has kindly tried to organize a flight down to Millford Sound and then back to meet the rest in Queenstown that night. Unfortunately the flight is cancelled due to low cloud. Back aboard the bus we drive along the road alongside Lake Wakatipu to Queenstown. We stop to watch a film crew making an advert for Toyota. Tonight, as part of the trip we have a paddle steamer cruise across the lake to a restaurant for dinner. Our hotel - Ridges - is easily the best of the trip. The steamer is due to leave at 6 but I head into town and meet up with an English couple who invite me to join them in an Irish bar. I phone back to hotel and cancel my place on the trip and spend the rest of the night with the English couple. They have been in Queenstown for a year and are leaving next week. They invite me back to party on Friday for their going away. I am late back to the hotel.<br />
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    <title>Week Fifty - Back to Vancouver &#x2014; Vancouver, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2004 14:06:46 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Vancouver, Canada</b><br /><br />Days 329 to 335 - Tuesday 3 August to Monday 9 August<br><br>Will takes me on a walking tour of downtown Toronto culminating in the 54th floor bar, 'Canoe' which affords wonderful vistas of the city. Unfortunately the bar doesn't open until midday so we leave and, after meeting up with a friend of Wills called Darren, drive to 'The Rebel House' for Buffalo Burgers and a couple of beers. Will then drives me out to the airport for my flight back to Vancouver. I am flying with 'Harmony Airlines' for $240, one way. I leave at 3pm and arrive in Vancouver 5 hours later. 'Beckside is once more unavailable so I book into another guest house in north Vancouver. I return to Beckside on Tuesday, next week. For the rest of the week I amuse myself by going for walks and sitting on the beach. I leave my camera back in for 're-programming' and pick it up on Monday, fixed.<br />
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    <title>Week Forty Nine - Toronto &#x2014; Toronto, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2004 14:03:58 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Toronto, Canada</b><br /><br />Day 322 - Tuesday 27 July<br><br>We get up at 8 and, after breakfast, follow William's well grooved routine for shutting down the cottage. We pack up the boat and get the hounds aboard. The fishing boat is secured in the boathouse and we head for the mainland. We shuttle the supplies to the car and head off for Toronto. After a brief stop in Tim Hortons we mosey on down the highway. As we approach the outskirts of Toronto the rain starts. We arrive back in Caledon at 3.30. After dinner I have an early night.<br><br>Day 323 - Wednesday 28 July<br><br>Our tee-off time is booked for 1010 at The Devil's Pulpit. The course is owned by the guys who invented Trivial Pursuit and has been ranked in Canada's top ten golf courses. William's playing partner, Brian, makes up the three ball. The course is superb, along the lines of Furry Creek, BC. My golf is ropey enough but not too bad. I enjoy the course greatly. After a couple of beers in the Clubhouse we drive back to Caledon. The decision is made to return to the Pulpit for dinner. What a fine dinner it is too. <br><br>Day324 - Thursday 29 July<br><br>This mornings challenge is The Devil's Paintbrush, sister course to The Pulpit. It is a mere fifteen minutes drive from William's place. This course is much more a links style course and is preferred by William and Brian. Cousin Will makes up the four-ball. We tee off at 1010 again. I knew from the practice balls that I tried to hit on the driving range that this wasn't going to be pretty and so it proved. The Clubhouse where we enjoy a couple of beers is much less formal than the Pulpit. William introduces me to the chef who is from Newry. We drive back to W &#x26; M's and pick up my bags. I say goodbye to my Uncle and Aunty and drive into downtown Toronto. Will gives me the driving tour of the city then we pick up his partner, Lisa, from her job at a harbour cruise company. Back at Will's loft-style apartment, I am booked into the communal guest suite of the condominium complex. It is a smart place. I get showered and join Will and his mate, Ryan (or Fatty) and head into town. Lisa doesn't join us as she is heavily pregnant and tired. We start off at The Keg then leave the suits to it and get a taxi out to Maddison's. This is more like it. We meet up with some Aussie guys and their girlfriends and go on to The Beer Market which is closed. We find an adjacent bar which is open then head back to Will's for a final beer. A good night was had by all.<br><br>Day 325 - Friday 30 July<br><br>My second cousin, Rod Waugh, lives in The Beach area of Toronto and has invited me to join him for a few days. We haven't met up for ten years. Will gives me another tour Toronto and then drives me over to Rod's place. Rod is away on a two day golfing trip with some friends (playing a course called Taboo which is ranked as Canada's best new course) but his wife Judy is a home. Judy is an actress and can be seen in the movie 'Death To Smoochie' starring Robin Williams and directed by Danny Devito. Judy has to take their two lads, Garnett and Jamie to a kids' birthday party so she leaves me to rest in peace while she is out. The house is another beauty with a fine swimming pool out in the back yard. Judy and the kids return around seven and Rod gets home at 7.30.. We have dinner and then sit around the pool with their friend chatting over a few beers. An early night is welcome.<br><br>Day 326 - Saturday 31 July<br><br>I sit around the patio while Rod, Judy and the boys splash around in the pool. In the afternoon, while Jamie has his afternoon nap, Rod, Garnett and I walk into town for an ice cream and wander along the shore of the lake. We are home for dinner around six. Judy has barbequed salmon which is lovely. After dinner and another session in the pool with the lads, Rod and I head out for a drink. We call first to his golf club, the Toronto Hunt, which is an impressive place where Margaret <br>Thatcher once attended some summit or other. We sit on the lawn and have a beer before joining some friends of Rod's for a drink. Next we drive into town to Rod's favourite jazz club. We don't arrive until eleven and the place shuts at 11.45. We have a drink and catch the last set of the band. It is a pleasant music but not enough to convert me to jazz. We drive back home and have a brandy on the patio before retiring.<br><br>Day 327 - Sunday 1 August<br><br>This is the last month of my year's trip. Rod and family are heading up to their cottage up North. I pack up and say farewell. I take the tram across town to Will's loft. Once Lisa returns from a final morning's work and we drive out to Uncle William's. It is a fine sunny day and we sit out on the patio before dinner of steak and veggies. After dinner we adjourn to the home cinema and watch 'The Wrong Box', a funny film starring Peter Sellers amongst others. An early night.<br><br>Day 328 - Monday 2 August<br><br>We all take a drive in William's Jag to the country for ice cream. Afterwards, Will and Lisa drive me back into Toronto. We have dinner in a nice restaurant in Little Italy. Back at the loft, Will and I watch some golf then crash at eleven.<br />
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    <title>Week Forty Eight - Lake Temagami &#x2014; Toronto, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2004 13:43:09 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Toronto, Canada</b><br /><br />Day 315 - Tuesday 20 July<br><br>After a lovely breakfast featuring some fine honey, I take a drive for some office supplies with Marylyn. Afterwards we call past their shopping mall to pick up some mail. 6' 13" of Cousin Will picks me up and drives me past 'The Devil's Paintbrush' Golf Club (more of which later) then we have lunch in local caf&#xE9;. At the local video store we pick up some cabling for his Dad up at the cottage. My Uncle William is up at their cottage on Lake Temagami with his two Irish Wolfhound pups. Marylyn and I are heading up to join him on tomorrow. Marylyn and I have dinner in a local restaurant.<br><br><br>Day 316 - Wednesday 21 July <br><br>We pack up Marylyn's Merc with supplies and the two Cairn Terriers, Wallace and Bonny. The drive takes 5 hours during which Wally sits on my knees checking the route. He's done this trip before. We stop off at North Bay for a coffee and sandwich in Tim Hortons (Canada's ubiquitous coffee house named after the former owner - a famous Ice Hockey player). We arrive at the marina on the shores of Lake Temagami where Uncle William awaits us, sporting a newly grown moustache. After packing the dogs and supplies into the boat (a Doral I think) we fly the ten minutes over to the island. The island is smallish (appx two acres) with a boat house and jetty and a boardwalk leading up to a fine three bedroom log-cabin. All the islands in the lake are chock-a-block with fir trees. Most are privately owned with single or multiple properties depending on their size. Bear Island, across the lake is an Indian Reserve. Most properties are 'cottages' (or holiday homes to you and me) although some are permanent residences. The lake freezes in Winter and crossing is made by Skidoo or larger vehicles on a marked road on the ice. I am introduced to Molly and Tara, the Irish Wolfhounds. They are fine beasts with a gentle nature. The terriers make their stake for the island, Wally to the fore, Bonny following his lead. Soon a truce of sorts is reached. William has prepared a daily menu for the week ahead. Everything is planned in advance as once you are here it is a long trip to the nearest convenience store. The lake water is crystal clear and is drank, unfiltered. The timber work in the cottage is a work of art, completed over two years by one man and his horse. We sit out on the patio quaffing a few beers and swapping stories until dinner time. Stir fry veggies and rice accompanied by wine. We retire to the patio until the mozzies get too persistent   then finish off in the cabin. We have an earlyish night.<br><br>Day 317 - Thursday 22 July<br><br>I lie in until 11am then get up and watch some of The Irish Open live on the satellite TV. Lunch, at twelve, is William's home made, deep filled chicken sandwiches and pasta soup. Yum. The afternoon slips away between periods of swinging in the hammock, fishing from the piers and watching TV. Happy hour arrives at 5 on the patio. The dogs laze around in the trees, ears flicking at flies. The occasional Loon warbles across the still lake. Everything is just fine. <br><br>Days 318 to 320 - Friday 23 July to Sunday 25 July<br><br>The routine continues much as above for the weekend. From time to time William and I try to catch 'Ol Smokie' out on the lake in the fishing boat, each outing ending with the same result. William says that there are two types of fishing, good fishing and great fishing. Great fishing is when you actually catch something. We enjoy good fishing. The weather remains kind for the entire week. Nothing extraordinary happens apart from the extraordinariness of the whole place. <br><br><br>Day 321 - Monday 26 July<br><br>Marylyn heads back to Toronto this morning. William drives her over to the marina with the terriers while I sleep in. After breakfast we decide to have one last go at 'Ol Smokie'. We set up the two downriggers and trawl at 100 feet along the south side of Cattle Island. This is where William is sure he is hanging out. If he is he is not interested in our attempts to bring him ashore. We pack up for the day and head back to the cottage for one last, prolonged, happy hour. After dinner we bid each other goodnight and retire.<br />
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    <title>Week Forty Seven - The Stampede &#x2014; Calgary, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2004 13:26:40 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Calgary, Canada</b><br /><br />Days 308 and 309 - Tuesday 13 July and Wednesday 14th July<br><br>I ring the Pentax warranty repair centre in Vancouver and arrange to drop my camera off. They are located near Broadway, just around the corner from the 'Nik-Nak' shop. After dropping the camera off I call round to the Nik-Nak shop which is still closed. The big brass elephant is gone however. There are four little feet marks in the dust on the red velvet covered plinth. <br>Geoff's cousin Kevin lives in Calgary and the Calgary Stampede is on until this coming Sunday. I decide that it is too good an opportunity to miss. I ring Kevin who kindly offers to put me up. I book the Greyhound bus to Calgary for this Thursday. The rest of the week is spent saying goodbyes to the gang at The Quay. I pick up my camera on Wednesday afternoon which has had the lens barrel replaced. Nik-Nak shop still closed. On the bus on the way home I discover that the camera lens does not focus on wide angle. Too late to go back now.<br><br>Day 310 - Thursday 15 July<br><br>I get a taxi from Beckside at 5.45 to the bus station, downtown. The trip is scheduled to take 16 hours. There are only 14 of us on the bus when it leaves Vancouver but after several stops out of town the bus is eventually jammed. A young chap from near Winnipeg sits beside me. He has a 34 hour journey ahead. The bus winds through The Rockies. The scenery is of course beautiful. As we approach a town called Merritt the bus gets a blowout. This means an extended stay in Merritt for over an hour. There isn't much to do but stay out of the blazing sun. All other stops are reduced to ten minutes from here on. Enough time for a couple of smokes and a packet of crisps. After the last stop in Banff before Calgary we head off on the final leg of my journey. We pass through the bus driver's heaviest ever hail storm just before our decent into Calgary. We arrive an hour late. 17 hours after leaving Vancouver. Kevin picks me up and drives me to his house. It is a lovely new house on the outskirts of the city. My quarters are in the basement where I have a bathroom, pool table, and giant screen TV. We have a beer then retire to bed.<br><br>Day 311 - Friday 16 July<br><br>Kevin's partner, (unforgivably, I have forgotten her name - she is from Scotland and looks like Lulu - until I remember her real name I shall call her Lulu), has managed to procure a ticket for me for The Stampede. Otherwise I would have missed 'The Greatest Outdoor Show On Earth'. Kevin has gone to work so I help myself to breakfast and watch some of The Open Golf Championship on TV. I walk to the bus stop and meet Lulu in the centre of town. Lulu has very distinguishable hair (see photos) so finding her in the crowds is dead easy. Despite living in Canada for years she still has her Scottish brogue. We take the train two stops to the Stampede grounds and meet up with Kevin. Around the main showground (ticket access only) there are stalls and rides. We make our way to the arena. My seat is on the other side of the stadium from Kevin and Lulu so we arrange to meet up at 5pm. My seat is on the top stand in the middle. I have resisted the temptation to buy a cowboy hat. Two reasons. One - I haven't the space to carry it home. Two - I look like an idiot in any form of headwear (see photos). The show is well under way. In between cowboy type activities on the showground are acts on the stage below me. Comedians, bands, Indian hoop twirlers - that sort of thing. This is all fine and dandy but the show stealers are the cowboys. These rubber spined honchos are one tough bunch. As I understand it, they draw for an animal to ride - be it a horse or a bull - and have 8 seconds to stay aboard. They are then marked by judges. Quite how they are marked over 8 seconds is anybody's guess although the ability to keep ones hat on seems to be scored rather highly. If the beast on which they are drawn fails to do the biz (e.g. decides to have a good crap instead) the rider has the option to mount another. And so it goes on. It is all played out in front of an adoring audience. The winner picks up a cheque for $50 000 or so and then the carnival moves on to the next town. Calgary is just the biggest of its type. It is thrilling and seems to be very well marshalled. I really enjoyed the show but left feeling a little sorry for the poor beasts forced to do something they plainly didn't enjoy. We meet up at five, missing the evening 'chuck-wagon racing', and queue to get into a large marquee beside the arena. The venue is called Nashville North and is one of the hotspots during the Stampede. The tent holds a lot of people and has live country bands playing throughout the day and night. We find space to stand at a barrel beside an English and American girl who turn out to be good fun. The music fits the place perfectly and despite not being a C&#x26;W fan, I find myself tapping along to the music. We have a great night and leave around twoish.<br><br>Day 312 - Saturday 17 July<br><br>Lulu and I go for some grocery and beer shopping while Kevin cuts a hole in his garage. We then head out to a lake (something-mere) where Kevin is a member of the Calgary Yacht Club. It is a fine and sunny day. We sit around reading, drinking and chatting. Around sundown Kevin lights the barbeque and we have steak and salad washed down with some wine. After dinner we light a fire and sit by the lakeside chatting until 11pm. We drive back to Kevin's place. I book a flight with 'Westjet' to Toronto on Monday morning. $450.<br><br>Day 313 - Sunday 18 July<br><br>The three of us drive up to Banff. It takes about an hour through stunning mountain scenery. Lulu's son is doing a 12 hour mountain bike relay and we first call up to the site for a look. It is very busy and we don't spot him. Next into Banff itself for lunch and a walk about. It is a beautiful town although very touristy. We drive around The Banff Springs Hotel, the springs themselves and have a pint before driving back to Calgary. I decide that I should really check out some of the famous bars in town before I leave and Kevin runs me into town. First call is 'Cowboys', the most famous bar in town. There is a lengthy queue outside which I join and enjoy the view of the waitresses getting the place ready for opening at seven. Rumour has it that the owner willingly pays to have his female staff 'augmented'. Whilst queuing, a ticket tout tries to sell me a VIP pass for tonight. The girls behind me warn me not to buy the pass. Apparently 'Shaggy' is playing tonight and tickets are about $50. As I only wanted to stay for half an hour I leave the queue and head up to 'The Roadhouse'. It is a typical 'cowboy' bar with about six different bars set up. I am the only one in the place and after chatting to the bouncer (heading to 'Derry to meet relations in September) I head next to Coyote. Here also things have yet to get busy. Consolation arrives in the form of the girls in the finals of 'Miss Stampede' practicing there sachets up and down the catwalk. That is enough. I jump in a taxi and head back up to Kevin's. We have a beer and retire around eleven. <br><br>Day 314 - Monday 19 July<br><br>Kevin kindly drives me to the airport for the 7am flight to Toronto. I check in electronically and book an aisle seat. At my departure gate there is no mention of my flight number to Toronto, nor on the departures screens. Ten minutes before my flight is due to leave I go up and ask the attendant about my flight. She tells me that they have almost completed boarding. She apologises when I point out the lack of information on the screens. When she checks my boarding pass she informs me that my seat has been cancelled. Luckily there is a single seat left. It is a middle seat so she says that she will get the person who took my seat, after I had confirmed it, to move to the middle seat. On board there is a hullabaloo going on at seat 19D. The occupier is refusing to move as he is sitting with his wife. He scowls at me for trying to break up his marriage. I offer to take the middle seat. The steward asks the young girl in the aisle seat if she would mind moving into the middle seat. 'I am not moving', she says. I therefore shoehorn myself into the middle seat, 14E. As we push off for the runway the stewardess announces that the lucky winner of the video is seat 14E. I am presented with a copy of the new Peter Pan video, the very one which I couldn't be bothered watching on my flight from Auckland. Some compensation. I give the video to the family in front of me. I chat with the elderly gentleman to my right for most of the flight. He is big in sand, and supplies the sand for the Olympic volleyball courts amongst other things. I childishly ignore the petulant young girl on my left. Just before we begin our decent, the chief stewardess takes the details from my boarding pass to make a complaint on my behalf. I haven't heard anything yet. Aunt Marylyn picks me up from the airport and drives me out to their house in Caledon, North West of Toronto. To say that their house is large is an understatement. It is somewhere in the region of 15 000 sq ft. It is not only large, it is beautiful also. It sits in over a hundred acres of rolling hills. There are stables, barns and a farmhouse on the land. My quarters are on the ground floor with my own bathroom, TV lounge, kitchen, bedroom and changing room - all located beside the swimming pool. I go for a doze then Marylyn makes pasta for dinner. I have an early night.<br />
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    <title>Week Forty Six - Vancouver &#x2014; Vancouver, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2004 13:02:33 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Vancouver, Canada</b><br /><br />Week Forty Six - Vancouver<br><br>Days 300 - 307  Tuesday 6 July to Monday 12 July<br><br>It is a slow news week. I realise that this 'travel journal' is becoming more of a diary and will therefore sum up the week, briefly.  The highlight was Thursday night when I met up with Lawrence and four of his mates, all Italians. After drinks at The Quay we decide to walk up to a Club called Section 3. On the way we pass Kelly Osbourne with two girl friends. The Italians chat her up. Kelly and friends turn up at the club after 15 minutes and join us. Kelly is square jawed, white lipsticked, confrontational but quite sweet. We have a laugh with her until one of the lads remarks on the fineness of her mother's posterior (or words to that effect). Kelly takes offence and storms off. Another friend of Lawrence joins us. His name is Chris but he is better known as 'The Terror'. Chris is an extreme fighter. He trains for his bouts for three months in advance. He is a likeable character but I wouldn't want to get on his wrong side. Lawrence has applied to be a contestant on a new TV program called 'Gladiators On Ice'. I am in safe company here. I leave around twoish and get a taxi back home. I decide to spend another weekend on Vancouver Island. I stay in the same house as last time and spend an idle few days doing even less than normal. Carelessly, I drop my camera from three feet and break it. Same as last time. I return to Beckside on Sunday evening.<br><br>Noticeable across Canada is the proliferation of National flags, The Maple Leaf. Each one is in pristine condition. I am told that if your flag needs replacing you can send it to the Office of Tourism and have it replaced - free of charge. Different from the tattered rags hanging back home. I've also noticed that windsocks never appear to be frayed. Shouldn't flags be made like windsocks? Flagsocks.<br />
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    <title>Week Forty Five - Vancouver &#x2014; Vancouver, Canada</title>
    <link>http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/petenic360/petenic360/1092155220/tpod.html</link>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 17 Aug 2004 12:58:15 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Vancouver, Canada</b><br /><br />Day 293 - Tuesday 29 June<br><br>Each day is much the same as the next. I get up and have two slices of Jan's home-made bread, toasted, with her own strawberry jam. I make a big pot of coffee and sit out on the deck smoking. I get a bus around midday (1153 to be precise) down to Lonsdale Quay and get the Seabus over to downtown Vancouver. It is usually Sushi for lunch followed by a walk along the Seawall path. I usually call into The Quay for a few Coronas. Steve Rappard is an exact double of Tom Sellick and I usually sit with him and his mate Richard. Steve is developing a staging unit which will be used to display winning Formula One cars behind the winning driver at the end of races. Girls in cars slow down and point at who they think is Tom Sellick. Steve is used to this. I catch the Seabus back across to North Van around six o'clock then No 246 bus up to Madeley Road. I watch TV for a while then I am asleep by 11pm.<br><br>Day 294 - Wednesday 30 June<br><br>As above<br><br>Day 295 - Thursday 1 July<br><br>Spend the morning on the phone trying to find out where to get the forms for applying for a Canadian Work Permit.  After getting the run around I decide to head into Vancouver to find the Immigration Office. After queuing in the wrong building I am directed twelve blocks away to the Citizenship and Immigration Office. After another queue I am told that I will have to download the forms from the internet. After a couple of Coronas with Steve and the boys I head back over to North Van and go into an internet caf&#xE9; and download the forms. I also visit the British Colombia Realtors site and read up on how to get licensed. I grab a Sushi platter and head up home for an early night.<br><br>Day 296 - Friday 2 July<br><br>Dan, who we met in Laos and Thailand has invited me over to Winnipeg for a canoeing/camping trip with two of his mates. Today is the day. Check out of Beckside and get early morning taxi to the airport for the flight to Winnipeg. I am flying with Air Canada for $350 return. I plan to return on Wednesday of next week. The taxi costs $50. The flight takes 2.5 hours. The flight over the Rockies is impressive as bejesus. Dan meets me at the airport and gives me a short tour of downtown Winnipeg. He looks well although his hair isn't as blond as it used to be. It is raining but not too hard. We have a couple of beers then meet up at one of his friends houses who has organised a couple of canoes. Justin and Dirk(?) arrive from work at 5pm.. We strap the canoes to the roofs of the two cars using various pieces of rope and foam and head off. The rain has stopped. We have to stop a couple of times to resecure the canoe. We arrive four hours later with light running out. Lone Island Lake is our chosen venue and after loading the food and drink into the canoes we paddle in the direction of the lone island. We are heading straight into the wind and the trip takes over three hours. The island just never seems to get any closer. As we approach a family of hicks appear on the shore 'a la 'Deliverance''. They say that we can set up camp on the other side of the island and offer to direct us to the landing point. We paddle round to where they are standing, dungarees et al. The path up to the top of the island is rocky, steep and slippery. Dusk is fast approaching. As we get to a flattish piece of rock and moss the first crack of lightning flashes overhead. I can smell the burning in the air. Dan and Dirk scramble to set up the tents as the rain falls ever heavier. Justin and I run up and down to the canoes to bring the supplies up to the top. By the time we are finished everything is soaked. Inside and outside the tents is a mess. We sit on wet sleeping bags in a pool in the tent surrounded by swarms of nasty mosquitos, Horseflies and ticks. We start drinking then the hicks invite us over to their camp. They have a large tarp over their camp and there are about 10 of them. Adults and scary looking children. We have a sausage each cooked on their fire and carry on drinking. The drink takes it's toll on the lads and soon all three are throwing up. It is a sorry sight. We go to bed around three a.m. and I manage to get some sleep. <br><br>Day 297 - Saturday 3 July<br><br>In the morning it is a sorrier sight. At least we haven't been raped by the hicks. Justin suffers from a vertigo-like illness and is not well. Also someone forgot to bring an axe so we have no wood to light a fire. The decision is made to head for home. I borrow Dan's phone and ring Air Canada. As it is a bank holiday weekend they cannot transfer my flight so I have to buy another ticket for tomorrow for $300. We load up the canoes and head back to the mainland. It only takes 2.5 hours this time. The ropes are now wet and securing the canoe to the roof is harder than before. We have to stop approximately every 5kms to retie the lashings. We have wedged Dan's trainers under the boat in an attempt to secure the damn thing. It is a nightmare but we make it back to Winnepeg in 4.5 hours. We gladly dump the canoes back at their owner's place and drive back to Dan's parents. Dan makes steak and chips and we have an early night.<br><br>Day 298 - Sunday 4 July<br><br>Dan's Mum and Dad make breakfast in the morning of ham and waffles. Dan then drives me to the airport. The trip has been a bit of a disaster but it has been good seeing Dan again. We have a beer in the airport then Dan leaves. I realise that I am cutting it very fine to make my flight. As I queue to go through security they are calling my name for immediate boarding. As I get to the front of the line I point out my flight plight to the elderly security lady. She says that you cannot rush security and proceeds to check everything in my bag. A bottle of unopened Tequilla gets the full treatment and I am now hopping from one foot to the other. The remains of a bottle of vodka has to be dumped. I have to turn on my laptop and my MP3 player to prove that they are not bombs. Eventually I throw everything into my bag and leg it for gate 42. A lady with a walky-talky asks if I am Mr McGoogian and phones ahead to say that I am on my way. As I reach the gate they have removed my bag from the hold and it takes a lot of persuasion for them to allow me to make the flight. I do however and gladly take my seat to the tuts of many. Back 'home' in Vancouver I have just missed the end of the Euro 2004 final but I am just glad to be back to sunny Vancouver. I get a bus downtown and the Seabus over to North Van. Jan cannot take me in Beckside Guest House until Tuesday so I am staying in the Lonsdale Quay Hotel right beside the Seabus terminal. It is a nice room and I sit in their bar/restaurant overlooking the water counting my blessings and the empty bottles of Corona. <br><br>Day 299 - Monday 5 July<br><br>15 Minutes With The Maharajah<br><br>I am aboard the Number 10 bus from Downtown to Victoria, heading across to do some shopping on Broadway. I haven't been over here before so I sit up front on the courtesy seats so I can see my stop. An old Indian man sits right beside me. Asian Indian. He is short with chestnut coloured skin. His bald pate is surrounded by close cropped, magnesium hair. He smiles. One front tooth is capped in gold in the shape of a backward 'L'. His pencil moustache doesn't appear to grow out of him. Rather it is a row of aluminium shavings held in place by magnetic teeth (Al non-ferrous notwithstanding). He has not washed. Instead he has smeared himself with 'Pine-Fresh Toilet-Duck'. He smells sweet and sour. Morecambe and Wise. He wears white shoes, brown slacks and a beige shirt (with brown embroidered swirls on the collar). He is carrying an old white plastic bag. It is repaired using white electrical tape edged with dark fluff. The tape is whiter than the yellowing bag. The bag rests on my right thigh. I convince myself that the bag contains the liver of a gigantic royal albino Indian elephant, recently deceased. It is cold and moulds to my thigh. I move my leg and he moves the bag. It settles once more onto my thigh. He does it deliberately, smiling. His sparkling grey eyes hold my gaze. A thin faced blond girl with a huge arse boards and sits opposite us. She pulls a map from her rucksack. 'Where are you going?' asks the old man. 'Shopping' she replies. 'You must get off on Broadway, three stops from now, take the number 16 bus for nine blocks, get off, turn right and walk two more blocks. Walk down the second alleyway on the left and halfway down you will find a shop with a green door. Here you will find what you are looking for. Here is the best nik-nak shop in all of North America.' 'I have only one hour before I leave for the airport' she says. 'You will have time' he says, waggling his head in that affected Indian way. He tells her where to get off for Broadway. I follow. I have a limp. All the power has been drained from my right leg. It is numb. The elephant's liver has sucked the life from my leg. The blond girl stands at the stop, biting her thumb nail. I watch to see if she will follow the old man's instructions. Instead she catches the 'Airporter' bus. Should I take up the old man's challenge? I decide to wait for five minutes to see if a number 16 bus (to Arbutus) will arrive. Sure enough it does. Every bus I have been on has been crowded except this one. There is a young Indian couple sitting halfway down the bus. She in Sari. They are watching me in the front mirror. I count the blocks and get off after nine. I follow the instructions. Sure enough I get to the green door. A hand written over the window sign reads 'Nik-Naks'. In the dusty window is another sign, rested against a red, velvet covered plinth beneath a large brass elephant, simply reading 'Closed'. The 'window display' is backed by that board with holes punched in it which you don't see any more. I think you are supposed to hang shelving in the holes. No pot of gold at the end of this rainbow. I retrace my steps to Broadway and buy a book. Then head home to North Van via The Quay for an early night. Never listen to an Indian Holy Man.<br />
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    <title>Wekk Forty Four - still Vancouver &#x2014; Vancouver, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2004 15:00:09 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Vancouver, Canada</b><br /><br />Week Forty Four - Vancouver<br><br>Day 286 - Tuesday 22 June<br><br>Over the next few days we just went with our routine, soaking up the culture and a few Coronas. <br><br>Day 287 - Wednesday 23 June<br><br>Geoff decides that he needs some last minute tanning so we laze around the promenade - shooting the breeze. Geoff leaves tomorrow so we have arranged to meet Lawrence and co at you know where. After some beers we head into town. Davy kindly buys all the drinks at Bar None, including Tequilas for me Geoff and Shaun. Shaun takes us to some late night Chinese restaurant where all the mafia hang out. Shaun kindly buys dinner for us, Lawrence and Tanya. Around fourish we say our goodnights and goodbyes.<br><br><br>Day 288 - Thursday 24 June<br><br>Shaun has kindly offered to drive Geoff to the Airport. He picks us up and we head down to The Quay for one final time (for Geoff anyway). We eat lunch at the bar watching the England vs Portugal match. We have to leave after the first half of extra time. Say goodbye to Geoff. Although this probably reads like we didn't do very much during his 20 days I think that it is just what we both wanted. For now it is time to let our livers regenerate. The shelves are being restocked with Corona in The Quay. This party's over. Shaun drives me back to downtown. I catch the Seabus over to North Vancouver and a taxi up to my guest house on West Keith Street. It costs $65 per night and is as cheap as I could find. The room is fine although the (shared) bathroom is full of bluebottles. <br><br>Day 289 - Friday 25 June<br><br>I spend the day drinking bottles of Evian, nursing my body back to health in the back yard of the house. It's nice and sunny. I decide to head over to Vancouver Island tomorrow and go down to the village where I find an internet caf&#xE9; and book a lodge in a place called Qualicum, north of Nainaimo where the ferry docks. I also book a car.<br><br>Day 290 - Saturday 26 June<br><br>I get the bus to the ferry at Horseshoe Bay and sail 1.5 hours across to V Island. It takes half an hour to drive to Qualicum. I spend the rest of the day lying on the pebble beach looking at the sky. The island is beautiful with a nice slow pace. My lodge is simple but all I need. <br><br>Day 291- Sunday 27 June<br><br>Drive over to Tofino on the west coast of the island. The road winds through the mountains and it takes four hours to drive the 220kms. I kill a squirrel on the way. It is too late to take a whale watching tour but instead I discover that there is a surfing competition at one of the beaches outside Tofino town. I drive there and lie on the beach watching the action. After a couple of hours I drive into Tofino, a lovely little town on the coast. At a Native American run caf&#xE9; I sit drinking coffee. A bald eagle soars close by the deck. I am too late to get the photo. An Indian sitting behind me notices this and stands at the railing and emits a perfect eagle call. The eagle obliges and returns to circle overhead. It is just too far away however to capture on film. Drive back to my lodge and have an early night.<br><br>Day 292 - Monday 28 June<br><br>Get up early and drive down to Victoria. It takes 2.5 hours. I wander around the town and go into the famous Empress Hotel for Devonshire tea. Sit in the harbour watching the world go by then drive back to Nainaimo to catch the five o'clock ferry back to Vancouver. Drop the car off then sit on the deck on the way back. Get bus back to North Van and another up to my new guest house called Beckside (www.beckside.ca) on Madeley Road at the foot of Grouse Mountain. It is a beautiful place with a little creek running below the decking at the back. The owner's names are Jan and Steve and I would recommend it to anyone. I have my own living room, bedroom, kitchen and bathroom with cable TV. Jan provides home baked bread. After sitting watching the squirrels playing in the trees from the deck I have another early night. A bear wanders through the back garden after I retire.<br />
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    <title>Week Forty Three - Vancouver &#x2014; Vancouver, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:51:06 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Vancouver, Canada</b><br /><br />Week Forty Three - The Quay, Vancouver<br><br>Day 279 - Tuesday 15 June<br><br>Head off towards Vancouver. We have booked another round at Furry Creek. Another glorious day in BC. The course was as good as we remembered. This time Geoff is victorious. Opus Hotel was unable to take us and anyway weren't prepared to give us a room each at the same deal as last time. There are some festivals in town and we end up booking The Howard Johnson Hotel on Granville Street. It isn't Opus and it is noisy with a lot of construction going on nearby. It is however close to The Quay and Yaletown. Granville Street, as well as being the hotspot for nightlife is also the sleazy part of town with panhandlers in every doorway. One group of druggies sit in front of a hat with a sign reading, 'Pot Fund.....and later munchies', which is at least honest. At the Quay we meet Shaun who takes us up to The Blues Club on Granville. There is a Native American band playing. They are good. Through our foggy vision, our waitress resembles Madonna. I take a photo. Outside, having a smoke, the beggars gather round looking for a cigarette. One guy does one finger press ups for a dollar. I leave before Geoff. Geoff has an altercation with Sitting Bull on the way out and, after explaining that he was from Ireland - the aboriginals of Europe, they were best of buddies.<br><br>Day 280 - Wednesday 16 June<br><br>Today we decided to head up to Grouse Mountain. After breakfast at The Cactus Club we catch the Seabus over to North Vancouver then a bus up to the cablecar. At the top we enjoyed views over the city then walk to the Grizzly enclosure. Afterwards we watch a display of birds of prey. Back down we went home then down to The Quay for the night. <br><br>Day 281 - Thursday 17 June<br><br>The highlight of today was meeting three very drunk girls at The Quay. They were drinking champagne and invited us to join them. One of them was English and the other two Canadian. One of the girls owns a clothes shop and was celebrating a successful day. Kristen, as I think was her name, insisted that we join them for dinner at a posh Italian restaurant. After her dog had thrown up on Geoff's jeans followed by herself, I decided that enough was enough. Geoff followed me home shortly afterwards.<br><br>Day 282 - Friday 18 June<br><br>After lunch in CC we lie on the beach watching some sort of animal surfacing in the bay. It turned out to be a seal. We decide to try somewhere different for a change and walk to The Shark Club for a beer and a game of pool. The table is crap and the place empty. Back to The Quay then up to The Roxy.<br><br>Day 283 - Saturday 19 June<br><br>We meet Lawrence and a couple of Italian mates (Adrian and Brady) in The Quay. Lawrence promises to take us out on his boat tomorrow with the Italians. End up in Bar None with Tanya and Lawrence. We witness the best dancer ever and we tell her so.<br><br>Day 284 - Sunday 20 June<br><br>We buy a dozen Coronas and four limes (in 'Urban Fare' - the best shop in the world near to The Quay) and walk down to meet Lawrence. His boat - 'Safari' - is smart and the six of us head out into the bay. Back ashore we finish the beers then head over to The Quay. Lawrence's mate, Davy turns up and we head around many bars to find some action. They are all quiet so end up at Bar None.<br><br>Day 285 - Monday 21 June<br><br>Took a 'Aquabus' over to Granville Island then walked around the point to Kitsilano Beach. Lay about for couple of hours then ferry back to Yaletown. You know the rest.<br><br>If anyone is interested, I am now brushing my teeth with hot water.<br />
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    <title>Week Forty Two - Vancouver &#x2014; Vancouver, Canada</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:37:43 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>Two grown adults dive off the property 
ladder, leave jobs and head off into 
the unknown.</description>
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        <b>Vancouver, Canada</b><br /><br />Week Forty Two - Vancouver<br><br>Day 273 - Tuesday 8 June<br><br>Cactus Quay where we meet Lawrence and his friends Paul and Davy. I think we ended up at Bar None again. A note on the waitresses at The Quay. Their names are Jennifer, Bascha, Cyrcee and Tanya. They are most excellent at their jobs and see the photos (sorry none of Jennifer) for why we became regulars.  Lawrence has told us that Coors Light is drank primarily by homosexuals. We decide to change drinks tomorrow.<br><br>Day 274 - Wednesday 9 June<br><br>We have decided to hire a car and head to Whistler on Sunday for four days. After a stroll along the seawall we head to The Quay for a drink. We meet an Irish guy called Shaun, a realtor, who introduces us to a guy named Jean. Jean is a former 'Rolling Stone' photographer who regales us with stories of his times with all the great rock bands. He took the photograph for Madness' album where they are walking across a road. Jean has since made his multi millions in telecommunications and lives in one of the top penthouse apartments in Vancouver. Pete shows up with his model girlfriend, Julia?. He 50 she 25. Probably ended up in Bar None.<br><br>Day 275 - Thursday 10 June<br><br>We have booked a tee time for the UBC Golf Club. A taxi takes us out and we enjoy a round with myself sneaking the honours around a very pleasant course. Cactus Quay where Geoff is drinking Vodka and Cranberry, I Vodka/Diet Coke. Both from straws. Lawrence turns up to inform us that only homosexuals drink from a straw. We ditch the straws and end up drinking bottles of Corona with a wedge of lime. Lawrence approves. Tanya and Jennifer join us and Lawrence at Bar None. Geoff and I leave early, wasted.<br><br><br>Day 276 - Friday 11 June<br><br>After lunch at The Cactus Club we head down to False Creek where we hire pushbikes for the afternoon. Today is another clear sunny day and we cycle around Stanley Park, under the Lion's Gate Bridge. We stop and sunbathe then ride back to drop the bikes off. Our trip was 18kms. We deservedly call into The Quay for a Corona or two. We freshen up back at the hotel then go for a bit of a pub crawl. Around midnight we decide that we should really go to Tina's birthday party so head back to the hotel and grab a bottle of wine, a face cloth and some toiletries as a gift. We get a taxi to Tina's in the South of the city. We arrive around oneish as most people are beginning to leave. We chat to the boss of the radio station and the manager of the local rugby team which has just beaten a visiting Maori side by twenty points. He knows rugby and we chat long about the Irish team. As usual we probably outstay our welcome and leave after five.<br><br><br>So I have this dream. I'm walking down a deserted city street late at night. It might be Vancouver. There is a full moon and the sky is clear. It has been raining and the moonlight makes black mirrors of the puddles. I open a manhole cover and climb down the cold metal ladder into the sewers. At the bottom of the ladder is a walkway. It's exactly four feet wide on either side of slow moving, crystal clear water. There is no smell and no sound. I turn right and begin walking at exactly the same speed as the water. There are no rats, no roaches. Moonlight spills in to the tunnel like milk from the grates above. The path is dry but the smooth walls are soaked in condensation. My right index finger draws a dry line along the wall. Perfectly straight, perfectly level. After four minutes I come into a chamber. The water runs through it but there is no exit. In the far corner sits a pure white heron. It has stabbed itself through the chest with its pointed grey beak. Scarlet blood oozes from its chest and off its beak. Its long, question mark neck leans on the wall with the point of its beak resting on the path. It is dying slowly, soundlessly. It looks across at me and blinks. Liquorice black eye. <br><br>Day 277 - Saturday 12 June<br><br>Probably another Cactus Quay day. Watching the girls go by and discussing how we are going to come back here to live. An Irish male escort agency is poo-pooed for all the obvious reasons.<br><br>Day 277 - Sunday 13 June<br><br>Check out of Opus. Their courtesy car drives us over to Enterprise Rentals to pick up our Ford Explorer Jeep. I am the nominated driver, ostensibly because I have an International Drivers Licence. Another left hand drive automatic to get used to. The drive north is spectacular. The road follows the coast with mountains all around. We have booked a tee time at 'British Columbia's most scenic course' - Furry Creek. All in it costs $145 each. We pick our clubs, shafts and flex. All 'Taylor Made' and board our buggy. It is a steep climb up to the first tee over a gorge. The buggy's on board positioning system talks us to the tee and offers to keep score. At the refreshment kiosk we buy supplies then mount the first tee. We decide to play off the blue tees. The drive on the first drops 180 feet to the narrow fairway of a short par four. I whack three balls out of bounds. Geoff nails a three wood down the middle. To say that this is a spectacular opening hole doesn't tell the story. Maybe the photos will give you some idea. We both play poorly but hold our breath at the scenery on the way round. Every hole is spectacular. To call the par three, 210 yard 14th the signature hole is an affront to the other 17 but it is probably justified. Despite a squirrely, flat swing with a five wood, I manage to hit the green. Geoff carves one right to the only bail out area. We each hit another with Geoff hitting the green this time. The refreshment cart arrives and the gorg. Blonde informs us that there is a bear cub on the 16th. We neck a bottle of 'Canadian' and finish out, my par being good enough. At the sixteenth we find the bear resting on a log. We are reliably informed that mummy bear hasn't been seen for some time and approach to within 15 feet. The bear paws the air and growls in warning as Geoff tries to feed it a Titleist No2. By the end of play I am up ten dollars but Furry Creek is the true winner. We get back into the car and head on up to Whistler. The scenery continues to dazzle. We arrive around 7ish and check into a two bedroom suite in the centre of town. 'Sundial' I think it was called, at $260 per night. We toss for who gets first pick of the rooms. 'Jammy bastard', Geoff says as it comes up tails. My room has a TV and a Jacuzzi. Geoff's doesn't. The season has ended in Whistler and the place is empty except for young mountain biker guys. From our balcony we watch them riding down the mountain. The town is Alpine beautiful with hotels being built for the 2010 Winter Olympics. We have a steak then walk to the 'Crab Club'. It is bunged with fit young men. As we are not but are cold and tired, we have one beer and head back to the room. We sit watching 'Apocolypse Now' like a couple of old queens then crash.<br><br>Day 278 - Monday 14 June<br><br>After breakfast in one of the cafes in town we drive North to a town (Rumford??) whose name isn't on my map. There isn't much there but the drive alongside the gushing Howe River (a guess) makes up for it. On the way back we stop and go for walk to some waterfalls. After driving back to Whistler we make a corporate decision to head back to Vancouver tomorrow. We walk into town and head back to the now empty 'Crab Club'. We play pool (Geoff wins) and are sent over a drink by the owner. From there we go to 'Buffalo Bills' bar/nightclub. We play pool on a crappy table then progress to the pinball machine. I win a furious contest. From there we went to a nightclub somewhere in town then home to bed.<br />
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