TravelStream™ news feed for member peacecorpsliz on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/peacecorpsliz en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 14 Aug 2008 22:00:29 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1169757300/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1169757300/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1169757300/tpod.html Thu, 14 Aug 2008 22:00:29 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Boston, Massachusetts, United States

Well it wasn't really "The End." This is the real end, or on the other hand, this very moment feels like a beginning or extension, not an end. My new life schedule, obligation, challenges and joys are already forming here in Boston, USA.

I flew back to Omaha on December 5th, 2006- my mom's birthday! I spent the following three weeks with my family in Omaha. Highlights included drinking lots of chocolate shakes (because I got two wisdom teeth pulled), teaching 8th and 9th graders about Ukraine at Beveridge Magnet School, celebrating Christmas with my family and their friends, seeing how much my brother has grown up and relaxing at home.

I also forced my family to watch "Irony's Fate," a traditional Russian classic holiday movie (like the Red Rider BB gun movie), and they LOVED it. It's about a guy who gets drunk before New Years, and accidentally flies to another city (St. Petersburg instead of Moscow). Thanks to communism, a similar street, building and apartment exist in the other city... and his key even works too! So, a young lady finds him asleep in HER bed... and that's just the beginning of the tangled story.

On Dec. 29th, I moved to Boston, and here I am! Only now, as I begin to settle into a new "normal" life, I naturally think about the bigger picture. The unimaginable journey that has led me here, and how many interesting pieces fit together. Two incredible things that come to mind are the small whispers of Ukraine I've seen all around me. My Chemistry professor is Ukrainian, and I spoke with him last week. His Ukrainian is perfect (since he came from mid-Ukraine and grew up when Ukraine was still part of Russia, this is a nice surprise). There are also other whispers... graffiti, people speaking Slavic languages, Ukrainian flags and churches. I never noticed these things before.

I'm still dating Ben (we met in Mironivka- the same Peace Corps Training group in fall 2004). We're only an hour apart, which is the closest commute we've had since we started dating last fall (2005). Things have gotten pretty serious, so thank goodness I can SEE him every week. Long distance dating just isn't the same thing. So, now we'll learn even more from each other (and the whole complicated experience of dating and romance). I'd say it's off to a charming start!

I moved into my new house in Somerville. I have 4 housemates (2 International Law Masters students, 1 other Postbac Premed student- like me, and a college professor). They are all mature and intelligent people, and we all have interesting international connections. I was a bit hesitant about sharing a house with 5 people, but I like my living situation a lot so far.

I started classes last week. I'm taking Biology Organisms & Populations, and Chemistry Fundamentals. We have lectures, labs and discussion periods, which total 16 hours per week. So far, it seems to be an excellent program. This week I've relearned all the pesky details about significant figures in science, basic structures of atoms vs. ions, and more than I ever dreamed I could know about "natural selection" (and still learning more). It's really cool to be back in school actually! Today I was talking to a freshman, and it made me realize how much I love being in a mixed group. I saw a little piece of myself in her eyes- even though that was 7 years ago! The education system in Ukraine doesn't allow for this type of intergenerational interaction. Nor would it encourage teachers to interact informally with their students (as both my professors already have). I've applied for several part-time jobs, and am attending a meeting to join the Brigham and Woman's "Ambassador" volunteer premed program.

Reverse culture shock? Yes, but I'm not suffering from it. Of course there are a lot of differences I've noticed. Mainly, the insane pace of life in America. Everybody is extremely busy. What ever possessed us to want to do so much? Where are our priorities?

Certainly the cultural focus is not personal relationships. Now that I'm getting caught up with my US friends, I realize how significant individuality/ fluid space is in the context of American relationships. I'm grateful for it since for 2 years, I've been tuned-out to what my friends are experiencing, and I'm surprised to find out about moves, engagements, pregnancies, deaths etc. But, I also miss the sweet caring of my Ukrainian friends, who called because they remembered I would do something today, and they want to know what happened. Friendship in the USA is very "hands off" in comparison.

I'm technologically behind. I'm still learning about Netflix, MySpace, Facebook, iTunes (EVERYBODY has iPods!), and the almost complete-coverage of wireless networks.

Consumerism is really nuts here...the prices!!! And, how much selection is really healthy? I'm not complaining about the raw spinach, apples, broccoli, blueberries and lettuce in the middle of winter! But, recently it took me 20 minutes to buy shampoo. Overall, it's more comfortable to be back in my "native" country.

So, I'm not sure if I'll have more journals on Travelpod. I'd like to be an international volunteer again someday (maybe Doctor's Without Borders, Operation Smile, Peace Corps again, or another program). For now, you can find me on Facebook, or e-mail me through the Travelpod site. I'm always interested to hear about Ukrainian connections, since a little piece of my heart is still somewhere in Sokal. So, that's it... THE REAL END. Thanks for following my journey.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1165234020/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1165234020/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1165234020/tpod.html Mon, 09 Jul 2007 20:17:18 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Kyiv, Ukraine

I'm Kyiv now, all ready to fly home tomorrow. Everything has been going relatively well. I never had such a beautiful departure. Ukrainian people are truly the kindest, most thoughtful hosts I've ever met. Recently my life has been filled with surprise good-bye parties, gifts, many people wishing me such beautiful prayers/ poems/ songs, hugs from my kids... I should feel blessed not only on this journey home, but forever! The minutes are whizzing by now.

I said good-bye to my Oma last night, and the last memory I have was her kissing my face and saying, "Ooooo I am so proud! Dopobachenya!" I think she had a great time... everybody adored her spirit, strength and brilliance. She was a real superstar in Ukraine, and I think she enjoyed the admiration and stimulation people gave her. I did too! And, the last memory I have of Sokal is seeing Lena and Ira smiling and waving. Such AMAZING people, so I know we'll be in touch and I hope I'll see them again soon.

I feel good- normalno. Won't sleep much tonight since I have to be at the airport at 5am! The driver was shocked and told me I didn't have much luggage, but I feel like I have pleanty. Two years of being a PCV is over, and I'll be home soon to start the next chapter (and next blog?!)!
With Love, dopobachenya for now,
Liz(a)
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1164573780/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1164573780/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1164573780/tpod.html Sun, 26 Nov 2006 16:24:36 -0500 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Sokal, Ukraine

So you probably wonder how it's going for me... a trip to Poland, my last week in Ukraine and my 82-yr-old Italian granny came to celebrate with me! That answer is that it's great- VERY exciting, and wonderful.

Oma told me today that after my Peace Corps experience I have become a "super woman." She noted that I can teach everything. I can talk with people. She marvelled at how much I carried home today without a grocery cart (two 5-liter bottles of water). She said I am an electrician because I fixed the broken light in my hall. She couldn't believe I washed my dishes with no water (I haven't had water for 36 hours now). Really it amazing to have guests to remind you how much you've grown in another country. For me it just seems like a relatively normal week.

The most amazing thing is that I received a surprise call that my granny bought tickets to Ukraine. Oma arrived last Tuesday night last week safely. She's been doing great here. Nobody believes how old she is, and you can't imagine the respect people have when she (at 82) tries to speak in UKRAINIAN and talk about politics. And of course the respect for her independence and courage. She's studied 11 languages, including Russian, but took the time to study Ukrianian for 6 months before coming here. What a woman!

She says she's perfect- eating and sleeping well. I'm happy that she's happy! I cooked borshcht and pancakes with cheese/ raisins. She loves the milk, the yogurt and the beer (with a little sugar added). We took a marshrutka to Lviv and saw the opera. We went to see monastaries and churches today, and my grandma is meeting all my friends. I think she's having the time of her life, and everybody is thanking/ surprising me... so I am having the time of my service too. It's unbelievable.

I'm sure I'll never forget the last two weeks I lived with my 82-year-old "Oma" in Ukraine! Her courage and strength, and commitment to knowledge is astounding. It's so interesting to talk with her- about the war, foreign literature, operas! She's such an example.

My 6th graders put on a play "The Little Red Hen," from books donated from Evan-Moore (a US company). The Ukrainian "boyfriend" is a gift from the kids at my school. Oma named him, "Ivanko." The weather has been sunny- and absolutely super too. Also unbelievable for November. Global warming, I suspect.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1161893460/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1161893460/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1161893460/tpod.html Mon, 30 Oct 2006 08:16:27 -0500 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Sokal, Ukraine

I would like to dedicate this entry to Ira K.! She deserves an award for her dedication to reading PC Volunteer blogs. She reminds me when I need to update mine (thanks, and sorry it's late and long), but more importantly she is a great Ukrainian young woman and friend.

So... 6 weeks left!!! Maybe you expect some cliche like, "it seems like just yesterday that I was writing an entry 6 weeks before my departure TO Ukraine." But actually, it doesn't seem like yesterday at all. Goodness! The past MONTH seems like a year. And in these two years, I've experienced enough to make me feel much older. Many unexpected things have happened from revolutions to weddings, supermarkets and women telling me they're expecting (congrats, Sally and Inna!).

But the most surprising is that my life as a Peace Corps volunteer has FAR exceeded my expectations. I've made it to the end without feeling like I want to leave. I really love Ukraine, and want to thank my family and friends (you), Peace Corps Ukraine and Sokal for being patient and supporting me.

However, I am still left with the question-- how to evaluate and explain these two years? I just finished writing my official DOS (Disclosure of Service) and site history for Peace Corps. These documents included the hours I've worked, # of children and teachers I worked with, organizations I assisted, a long contact list for Sokal, projects I helped start, grant money I won... but I finished reading what I wrote, and it feels empty. It doesn't explain how meaningful Ukraine has been to my personal growth.

I've learned how to stand strong and alone as a woman in our crazy and unfair world. I've learned how flexibility and positive attitude can make all the difference... that laughter and smiles are clear in any language... how to take care of myself, and not feel scared or lonely. I've shaped my life goals, and understood what I want/ need to be happy.

I've also learned that some people are unhappy, negative, drunk, confusing or just plain nasty- it's life. Likewise, terrible things happen daily- mistakes, denied travel visas and shattered dreams, unexpected death, deafness, small girls with rare bone tumors in their spine who cry because they live in constant pain and her family can't afford the operation, cancers, kidney failure, miscarriages, wars, theft, sexual assault, parents living abroad and sending money home, cheating, dishonesty, selfish leaders, beatings, nepotism, racism, men coughing up blood on the sidewalk, parents smoking cigarettes while carrying infants, AIDS/HIV, etc. And there are some items I would have included as tragic 2 years ago, but not today (for example, lack of "necessary" utilities, bribery, poverty, toilets covered with maggots, strong BO, walking miles in the freezing cold, 30 people stuffed in a 16-passenger van). In 2 years in Ukraine, I have seen and felt first-hand emotions regarding ALL these things, except wars (although I have talked to people who survived WWII, which is pretty close).

Most of all, I return to America with the feeling that my skin is a lot thicker. Maybe I could walk across broken glass now? It won't hurt because I understand that there are some things that cannot be controlled or stopped. We live in an imperfect world, but my life in the USA is a pretty nice place (considering).

I can tell my skin is thicker because I feel pretty calm about coming home. In fact, I don't think I've ever prepared to make such a huge life transition, and felt so normal about it. There isn't much else to say.

The past few weeks have been nice- it's a bittersweet time- teaching, a weekend in Lutsk, a week in Kyiv for an HIV seminar, a visit from Sophie Buxton (a Quaker girl I met 5 years ago at a UN program in Geneva), a teacher's seminar at my school, conversations with Ben (who reminds me how fast my experiences in Ukraine will seem exciting and distant) and lastly, gorgeous fall weather! "Babena Lito," it's called, "granny's summer."

My plane tickets have been purchased... on December 5th I'll arrive to Eppley Airfield, Omaha about 3:30pm. And, on December 29th, I'll move to Boston. 6 weeks until my departure from Borispil Airport, Kyiv, Ukraine.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1157140980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1157140980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1157140980/tpod.html Sat, 02 Sep 2006 18:47:00 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Yaremche and Sokal, Ukraine

I just got back from the COS (Close of Service) Peace Corps Conference in the Carpathians, and today we started the new school year. My planned COS date is December 5th, so it seems suddenly that there's not much time left. It means I'll be really busy during my final semester. Days are getting shorter, colder... but I'm feeling pretty happy in Sokal, today especially happy! Everybody is excited about the grant project- me too. They are talking about who will be FIRST to do the training. I just love it- Lyubomir is doing a great job. Yes!

Also, I love the "bell" ceremonies. It's so beautiful to see the WHOLE community lined up together- parents, kids with big poof balls in their hair, and stray dogs running around in the center. The local apple trees are full of red globes now, and I feel like I am walking in a crisp autumn story-book with green leaves and red balls. The only low point today was the liver-mayo salad. That was a mistake, but I thought it was coleslaw.

(Added Sept. 2nd)
My parents called me today, and I promised them I'd add this little story... the part where I went to the bathroom at the celebration, and there was no water in the bathroom- that's not rare. We couldn't flush of course, but more importantly we couldn't wash our hands, so we went back to the table to use some instant hand sanitizer= pour a little vodka on your hands! My dad mentioned that doctor's prefer something with at least 70%alcohol, but I think Ukrainian vodka probably kills most things.

Regardless of my infallible hygenic practices, I still got a little oozy after the party last night, and got up 4 times to use the bathroom. I'm blaming it on that weird liver salad because there was definitely some globulous-gooey, eye-ball consistency thing in the bite I tried. Today I give two BIG thumbs DOWN to weird salads.

The dancing was incredible though! I just love Ukrainian mood "nastriy" and party dancing- it totally makes up for the gooey liver, vodka-hand-washing and mayo.

PS- Mr. Bryan "FashionMaster" Warf... if you read this, I would just like you to know that I wore my glittery gold-white Ukrainian (but made in China) "ELF" shoes- the ones you thought were a joke- and I looked fan-sparkle-tastic. =P
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1155808260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1155808260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1155808260/tpod.html Fri, 18 Aug 2006 17:00:47 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Salem, Oregon, United States

On my way to Salem, my flight from Warsaw was 2 hours late, which was a miracle!!! I met my parents in the airport on August 6th for an hour.
We didn't plan the meeting, but we were both going through Chicago on the same day. If my flight had been on time, I would have missed them by 7 minutes- so I was ecstatic to hear about a delay.

But, I was overjoyed to finally get to Oregon the next day (after over 50-some hours of travel), and my week with Ben and his family was even more wonderful than I imagined. We did a lot in a week. Some highlights: drank good coffee, dined at several good restaurants, ate a 5-course meal at a cooking school in Portland, hiked at Silver Falls, visited Bryan Warf and co. in Eugene, took a boat trip in Portland, visited downtown Salem's "Acid Ball," rode the Salem Carousel, saw "An Inconvenient Truth" and "Da Vinci Code," tasted Oregon beers, toured the chilly coast, looked at art, watched shooting stars from a hot tub, played Clue, cooked borshcht, played croquet, made smorz, looked at photos, went shopping for some random requests I had from Ukraine, drove past TALL trees, and most importantly... we visited and had fun!

I liked Ben's family a lot. Their beautiful home is in the country, overlooking a valley. The first night, I woke up really early, and I almost felt like I was in Sokal because I could hear dogs and roosters. Glen had planted a neat garden that produces berries throughout the summer. Ben's mom and dad celebrated their 27th anniversary on August 10th. They make a good team- Glen is really supportive and sweet, and Deanna is full of creative and artistic energy. I think that they- like my own parents- are adjusting to life with "launched" kids. It is a redefining time for couples, and it felt special to talk with them about their lives and memories. Talking with Deanna made me miss the immediate openness between American women- it's so special, and I long to spend more time with my creative friends at home. Ben's brother, Adam, also really impressed me because he managed to spend a lot of time with us despite the fact that he just started a new job with a crazy schedule and is moving soon. Their cats were the most confusing members of the family since they are practically identical, their names differ by one syllable (Mollie? Millie? I never got them straight, sorry). I concluded that the Whites are really nice, sincere people, and I feel like I know Ben a little better too now.

I found out August 8th that my former student, Oksana, was accepted to study on scholarship at a university in Poland- congrats!

In a flash I was back in Poland... and 8 hours later in my Sokal apartment. The strangest thing is that neither being in the USA or coming back to Poland seemed strange. Two different cultures- two different worlds- and I could adjust to both of them despite some interesting paradoxes. I know it will be tougher now because I feel like there is a part of me in both countries now, but visiting the USA helps me think realistically about moving to Boston in 4 months. I'll miss the people- Oksana, Lena, all my Ira's, Natalya, and so many others. It's hard to believe my service is ending. Next week I'll go to my Peace Corps COS- Close Of Service- Conference, and school starts September 1st. There is a lot to do here in 4 months, and now I just hope for peaceful, fulfilling closure to my service in Sokal.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1153943760/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1153943760/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1153943760/tpod.html Tue, 01 Aug 2006 02:41:32 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Simferopil, Yevpatoria, Yalta and Sevastopil, Ukraine

I just returned home from a week adventure to Crimea, and spent over 24 hours on a train with windows that would NOT open, and NO air conditioning. It was the most sticky, miserable train ride I've ever had. I tried to console myself imagining how much worse it would be if I was a wartime prisoner being shipped off without a place to sit, or a toilet. But that thought didn't make me feel better. I drank all 4 liters of water
that I brought with me, and went through a whole packet of wet wipes. At least I was reading a good book- "The Blind Assasin" by Margaret Atwood (a series of stories intertwined about a 1900's family that deals with wealth, wars and the depression).

The journey was worth it (yes, Crimea is THAT awesome)! All that travel for 3 days spent on Crimean beaches, 5 nights with Kathleen (a wonderful 61-yr-old volunteer) in Simferopil, and lots of bonding with Natalya and Ira (my Sokal friends). We strolled through the palace where Stalin and Roosevelt made huge decisions which have shaped the USA's relationship with the Middle East. I got a little bronzed (hopefully nothing cancerous) on the beaches of Yevpatoria. On the final day, we rested at an ancient Greek/ Roman port, Chersonets, near Sevastopil (the military city). We climbed and swam through the ruins! It was marvelous.

I learned a lot about Crimea. It certainly feels like Russia. A higher percentage of people in Crimea want to be part of Russia than Russians! There seems to be a LOT of corruption and ogliarch control in Crimea, and it is hard to know how the people are being manipulated by the owners of the businesses and military. I thought that Michael Moore could have a lot o fun making a documentary film about the Crimean government, but then he'd probably wind up with a volcano face like Yushchenko- or worse).

I saw Muslims, and Tatars. It's sad what happened to the Tatars, but I admire them for moving back to their land. It will be interesting to see the future of Crimea since so many treaties will expire in the next decade. They may decide to become an independent
country. Whatever they do, I hope they do it peacefully. I am glad I visited while I had the chance.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1152807600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1152807600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1152807600/tpod.html Mon, 31 Jul 2006 15:55:46 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Sokal, Tuholka, Lviv and Volodymir-Volynsk, Ukraine

Whoever mentioned that the SECOND year in Peace Corps goes by faster than the first was RIGHT! My summer is flying by, but I am enjoying the sunshine and activity. I have been pretty busy even though school is not in session.

I helped with exams in June. Then, there was Youth Day, and on June 27th graduation. I watched all the students line-up in the town center, and then we had a separate ceremony at school. My favorite 11th graders (the seniors since there are only 11 grades in Ukrainian school) were completely decked out like PROM overdose! They were gorgeous though, and the best moment of the ceremony was when Elya presented me with her large boquet of roses, dyed blue to match the exact color of her cobalt dress.

Ben arrived too, and the next day we left for Caritas Young Leaders Camp, funded in part by one of my grants, the "SANK" (Stop Alcoholism Narcotics and Kurrinya-Smoking) project. The camp was held at the school in Tuholka, a lovely village in Lviv Oblast (see Oleg's comments). Camp was even more fun than I had hoped, mostly because I felt like I got to let lose and have fun with the kids (something that the classroom doesn't allow). So, in short... lessons, hair wraps, minimal bathing- no running water, hikes, smores (thanks for the marshmallows mom), yhatzee, boggle (with modified rules), ultimate frisbee, capture the flag, three other volunteers, jokes about cows, lots of blasting rap music- "bang bang," and the main project... a situational video about substance abuse, written and produced by the kids themselves! Wow.

I didn't want to leave, but I had to go meet Bryan Warf on July 4th (he's a Guilford College friend getting his doctorate in Biochemistry at U of Oregon, researching the molecular causes of the most common type of muscular dystrophy). And then, the next day Sally Stevens, now Sebastian (another friend from college), arrived on a train with her new husband (who is in the airforce in Germany near Frankfurt).

We experienced all the wonders of Ukraine, and it was joyous for me! The three of them had a lot of interesting observations (things I don't notice). For example, Bryan observed that most grocery stores are painted with his school colors (green and yellow... GO DUCKS!). And Sally and Josh wanted to know why the trees are painted white at the bottoms... good question! The weekend was busy going to visit 8 churches in Volodymyr-Volynsk, and two different villages. My friends thought it was a hoot to hold and play with all the baby animals- ducks, kittens, chicks, calfs. Bryan kept running after chickens with his digital camera, and it makes me laugh just thinking about it. Then there was the surprise stop at Maria Petrivna's house, who is embroidering a traditional Ukrainian shirt for me. She dressed us all up like dolls with hats from 1916 Galician Army, and then set us up in front of her painting of Taras Shevchenko to be photographed. Upon our departure she attempted to, as my guests noted, "give us the entire contents of her fridge!"

We were touched by the spontaneous generosity and hospitality of my Ukrainian friends. My friends claimed the best part was talking with the people, and that they had never felt
like they understood a foreign country as much as they understood Ukraine. For me, this was a touching compliment because I think it goes to show what a priveledge it is to be a Peace Corps volunteer. Sally, Josh and Bryan have done a LOT of travelling (and Sally and Josh LIVE in Germany), but they feel like they gained a special understanding of Ukrainian culture and people while they were here.

I think it is because I feel part Ukrainian now, and tried to explain things to them. They all said that they came here with hopes of seeing Crimea or Kyiv in the back of their minds, but now they feel like talking with people is more important that seeing any tourist site in the world. I agree 100%. I have travelled to major European cities, watched the sunset from the top of the Eiffel Tower, danced around the colliseum, been to a Broadway in NYC... and nothing is as powerful as sitting in a dusty library that used to be a Jewish school and drinking tea with the locals!

One of the saddest times has been watching them realize what it means to be a citizen of a developing country like Ukraine. When we had tea with the library workers they clearly recounted their lives, salaries, struggles, and Olya told us about her greatest concern (I've heard it many times)- that she won't be able to educate her son beyond high school
because she can't afford to bribe universities (yes, people often feel like they have to bribe).

It has also been sad to hear my American friends enthusiastically ask people where they have travelled, and if they have been to America. I used to ask the same questions, thinking the world was as open for everybody as it has been for me. Now, I already know
the answers... of course not! Many people in the world can't even leave their country because they are trapped by complicated visa laws which most Americans don't ever think about. We come from one of the few cultures in the world where world-travelling can be a hobby.

It felt incredible to talk about world politics with my friends too. I felt as if the trip helped open a new side of the world for them- even though it was only a week! Bryan, Sally and Josh's visit was funny too. We discovered a sauna in my town- nicer than any sauna I've seen. So even I experienced some fun surprises while having so many guests.

The most tense moment was when we were on a crowded mini-bus "marshrutka," and Bryan knealed down and sat on the floor. Three people GASPED out loud, and one woman started yelling at him about how dirty it was. I translated, and he laughed and told me to tell her it wasn't that dirty really. She just stared at him the whole time, as if to say, "you're surely going to die now." But luckily, he didn't.

Bryan read me some of his journal entries at the end of his trip, and it made me realize what an adventure my life seems like to people who don't live here... I laughed harder than I have in a LONG time. I didn't realize my life was so funny. He talked about how
surreal it seemed to be visiting a lake next to a smoking coal mine, playing table-tenis with a former Soviet government leader after drinking several shots of cognac. Or toasting to Love, secret love, and health happiness POTATOES! A drunk man on the
marshrutka was telling me that I didn't have allergies because dust from plants didn't exist... and really I was ill because I was wearing flip-flops instead of nice, closed shoes! Then, there was the little old lady who was purchasing a 100-ml glass of vodka while we were ordering a cup of tea... at 10am. And we found the post office, a restaurant and my bank unexpectedly closed for no reason- each time I just sighed and told them we'd just come back. Normal, right? Bryan remarked about how STRANGE that was. Strange?

July 12th was Sokal's "Praznik" (a special town holiday for the patron saint of the local church), and it was another exciting and busy day for Bryan and I. We baked two cakes (one crazy Ukrainian recipe that requires that you boil the cake dough before adding
the flour, and an "American strawberry swirl cheesecake" but modified since there is no cream cheese here). It is local tradition to visit people and give them home-baked cakes on this holiday. I love baking, but honestly it was hot enough that baking cakes was torture. Then, despite our pleading, we were still sent off with more cake than we had baked.

It has been lonely since they left, and Ben flew home at the same time too. Over the weekend my mom called from a big family reunion in North Carolina. I felt more homesick than I had in a while. But, I got a surprise invitation to help with the East-West Camp organized by the youth organization, Dream Club (with whom I helped write the grant which was funding the camp). I took some day trips to Veliky Moste, and met some more great Ukrainian kids. A lot of activities were in Russian, which is pretty challenging for me, but laughing, swatting at bugs, and playing cards doesn't take many words.

I also got some incredibly great news this month. I was accepted to study premed at Tufts in Boston. I applied early decision and it was my first choice, so I am thrilled. It's not grad/ med school, but I think it will lead toward that as long as I do well. The program starts January 17th, so I'll be moving to Boston next year.

And I was excited about the World Cup results... Ukraine played for the first time in history, and the winner... my native Italia! Bravissimo (right dad?)!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1154365260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1154365260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1154365260/tpod.html Mon, 31 Jul 2006 15:28:18 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Dvirtsi, Ukraine

Yesterday afternoon/ night was adventurous! I went to a village wedding with Ezra (a new volunteer nearby, who worked at the Caritas summercamp with Ben, Rebecca and I). Incidentally, Ezra's blog will likely feature his own account of the wedding. Click here to jump to Ezra's blog.

The wedding was in Dvirtsi, a real village... we walked about 2 km through dirt roads and manure piles to find it. We thought we were lost, so we kept stopping and old ladies kept telling us to keep walking. Then we started hearing the wedding, and followed the sounds.

There was no running water and an outhouse (I discovered when I excused myself to wash my hands before the meal... there was no sink, just a hole, and the hole was not for hand-washing). The women were preparing the food on a wood stove, and there were lots of bugs and animals, 200 of which were guests! They had built a special wooden structure for the reception covered with pine branches and colorful decorations.

Ezra pleased the village men by drinking a lot vodka. In fact, by the end of the evening, the old men across from us (who had been pressuring him to drink all night) started yelling at him to stop! I've NEVER heard Ukrainians tell somebody to stop drinking. They told Ezra it would be bad for his health to take another shot, and he was going to be drunk. Actually Ezra was fine, and he seemed quite happy to be at a Ukrainian wedding. There was a lot of food, and the drinking was spread out over a lot of time, so it wasn't so bad.

I did my usual "sipping wine-only" routine (women aren't under much pressure to drink). I danced a lot and played the traditional wedding games. Nobody could say Ezra's name, so they all called hem "Yura!" Anya wanted me to give a speech into the microphone, to wish Taras (her brother) and his new wife good blessings from America, which I did. Nobody had been paying much attention to the toasts or the guy with the microphone, but everybody STOPPED and stared at me, and the whole party went silent as soon as I opened my mouth. I felt intimidated, but when I finished they applauded, and I got some random kisses and hugs the rest of the evening.

I soon felt like an honored guest. At the end of the night they sent us home with a huge bag of cakes, and a bottle of wine nestled in the middle. I didn't know about the wine until I got home. And getting home was scarry. Our taxi's wheel came off the axle partly. We bumped, and skidded to a metal grinding stop on the side of the road. I thought the car was on fire, and I might die for a second.

Then, we all promptly got out of the car, and the driver cursed, and got a hammer out of his trunk. He jacked the car up, and then hit the wheel back into the car with his hammer. After I was convinced we'd be calling another taxi, we all got back into the car. He drove slowly, and kept getting out of the car to check on the wheel, but we made it home safely. I couldn't believe that he just HAMMERED his wheel in. So we all were pretty "hammered."
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1119304980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1119304980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/peacecorpsliz/ukraine-2004/1119304980/tpod.html Wed, 19 Jul 2006 17:48:35 -0400 Liz's Peace Corps Service in Ukraine

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Sokal, Ukraine

I'm inspired to type some of the poems I've written in my diary, even though they're personal. Hope they say something interesting or meaningful to you, Liz


Orange Revolution
November 21st

"It's beautiful!" I gasped.
Then I saw the frustration knotted in the corners of your eyes.
Your face flushed, and you couldn't be still.
Shaking your head briskly,

"NO!"
"It's scary." Of course. I was terrified too.
I wished I could say more.
More than beautiful.

Like a birth, we are all waiting with trembling awe,
Excitement and anxiety mix together in bright orange
Calling throughout the night.
Temperatures dropping lower, but it's hot.

No, it's not beautiful. People coming down like snowflakes,
falling and collecting until you are covered.
With a blanket of hope,
You are free from cold unfairness of the world.

No, it isn't beautiful. Cheating while pretending to play fair.
Because you think everybody is lazy disorganized ambivalent uncooperative,
You think we've lost faith?
Because we've been through too much?

Now I shake my head too. "No, it's scary," I agree.
A million people chanting together, feeding each other.
Your mothers, fathers and even your police,
All together like a river, befriending each other.

A birth without blood or pain. Can it be?
None of us thought so.
But you have the whole world watching you.
With wide eyes, you are so much more than beautiful.


Little Black Seed
Feb 10th

My breath cutting the groove above my lips deeper as I sigh for tragedy
and for impatience. My eyes down from seeing the months it's taken me
to accomplish something that should have taken minutes,
and down because my next step could send me in rivets.
My hair a mess from already being spun, cradling a silent face
because in the corners of the world life moves its peculiar pace,
without anyone screaming, everyone can hear my eyes, my sighs and my yawn,
and it can get stuck inside a pocket like sunflower seeds, which we open later on.


Consequences
June 12th 2005

Lurking ahead constantly, consequence,
Always one step further than I sense.
It's like you don't care for me at all.
Oh, why must there be such nonsense?

Making me wrap my legs around the fate of desire,
Because it is hard to think of burns
when you are caught in the glory of the fire.

Once I saw your shadows, it was too late.
No whispers, confrontation.
No attempts to communicate.

When I can't see you, I am lost. My dear!
Heart swathed in velvet sweetness,
The costs, the pain, the tears and fear.

All bubble inside waiting to explode momentarily.
And then at last I'll see what you've woven silently.
Creeping, lurking without a sound.
Only the hushhhh like gas leaking, catching me!

FACING
Spring 2006

Connection, presence and seeing your face
takes time passing slowly with grace.
Discipline we can truly see,
needs order and humility.
The one held unaccountable,
knows nothing but her own trouble.
Reading kneads the supple mind,
prayer and truthfulness so kind,
pointing us to seek within,
break lose of tempation and sin,
like a breath of sweet air
before plunging into world's snares.
Bitter and wet, we find ourselves
in paradise where peace dwells,
and you on your thrown embrace
all who faithfully seek your face.

Something
Spring 2006

There's something I can't see now.
It's not yesterday or tomorrow.
It's not spring or sunshine.
It's not in my soul, not divine.
It's everything because I know not
if it is or if it's not.
It may be you, but who are you?
Or if it's not, could it be me too?
Me and you, that's my mystery,
not as easy as "coffee or tea?"
There we know it's not a book,
written where we can just look
or woven together as a tapestry,
travelling bums or settled family.
There is a difining time
to travel, work, drink or dine,
or stay behind, swimming deeper,
climbing one mountain, although it's steeper.
Oh, path less travelled by,
the one I wanted to try,
I can't tell you where I went.
In these woods everyone has a tent.
Scattered, sheltered and cell phones,
the world full of rings and moans,
try not to be free if we have to choose
easier distracted, even though we lose.
But we don't know it.
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