TravelStream™ news feed for member pandb on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/pandb en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Mon, 21 Dec 2009 04:49:05 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/pandb/pandb/1261388945/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/pandb/pandb/1261388945/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/pandb/pandb/1261388945/tpod.html Mon, 21 Dec 2009 04:49:05 -0500 Boat life ... our story as liveaboards in the Mediterranean and beyond !!

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Plymouth, England, United Kingdom

Bridget writes.....

It is a month now since we left White Rose and the sunshine in Lefkas and returned to the UK to face the Christmas frenzy. After a check up at the hospital (the main reason for our trip back) we went down to Plymouth to stay at Helen's flat for a week with the hope of getting out and about on Dartmoor. From the moment we arrived the weather was against us bringing rain and wind to the whole of the West Country, so we turned our attention to Christmas shopping and perusing the outdoor shops. When we did head for the moors the weather closed in and we missed the path to take us back to the town and walked far further than we intended but it was good fun with only the wild ponies for company!
The flat is ideally situated for walking in to town but we preferred to walk along the Hoe and see the all boats in the Sound. There is a big Naval base and 2 ships came back from the Gulf whilst we were there. We had a lovely walk along the coast path in the morning mist and when the sun did come out we found some ducks on the beach which were entertaining to photograph! The BBC forecasters promised another day without rain so we stayed on and headed for the moor again and had a lovely walk following the River Dart. Unfortunately after all the rain the stepping stones were impassable but we managed to scramble along the banks for a while before climbing up to the path.
We are now preparing to go back to Plymouth for Christmas and hoping to see our families and friends along the way. The decorations are up and the presents are wrapped. All we ask is that the snow keeps melting so that everyone can travel safely.
A Merry Christmas and a Happy Healthy New Year to everyone.

Peter writes ....

As Bridget has said, the weather has been abysmal here and I feel as though I should be going into hibernation for the next few months. A quick look at how warm it is in Lefkas, where we left the boat has made me quite envious.

Even though it may get cold in Greece from time to time they do have a great way of presenting the weather which makes even the worst of times entertaining. For anyone out there, particularly the men, who needs a laugh, follow the link below to see 'Petroula - the greek weather girl'. It's quite revealing!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gm0r9-FnAOU

In the New Year we plan to move on for a few weeks before going back to the boat but we'll let you know more about that in the next update.

In the meantime "Merry Christmas and a very Happy New Year"
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Lefkas, Ionian Islands, Greece

Bridget writes….. Having tucked the boat up in the Marina we left Greece and flew back to the UK where I had some more tests at the hospital. We enjoyed some lovely days out visiting my parents in Worthing, Sheffield Park for the autumn colours and Eastbourne (amongst others) and the weather was lovely and bright. When the doctor said the results were good and that he didn't want to see me for 4 weeks we quickly booked flights back to Athens so that we could do some winter jobs on the boat.

The weather here has been very disappointing with rain and wind most days, though it is not cold. We went for a day sail with Keith and Penny aboard Sea Trek and I was the only one brave enough to go for a swim before lunch. It was a lovely day out even if we did have to motor back! Yesterday Penny and I cycled around the lagoon, between showers, and saw a small group of flamingos that have just arrived here. Hopefully more will come soon and we can get some photos.

The Marina here is quite different to Marmaris, there being only 15 – 20 live aboard boats, so it is very quiet. We are still hoping to hire a car and explore the island before we leave……..if only it would stop raining!!!

Peter writes ….



Determined not to have a repeat of the fuel blockage problems next year, one of the jobs that awaited me on our return to the boat was to clean out the diesel tank. Boy, what a job it has been. Firstly I had to cut away parts of the fridge just to get access to the tank; then after draining the diesel out I had to create a second inspection hatch before the cleaning could even start! You should have seen the sparks when I set the angle grinder to work to make the second hole!! Its quiet incredible what can actually grow in diesel – as one of the photos shows - still it is all done now thankfully.

Its only a week or so before we return to the UK so I’m hoping we can get in a bit of exploring before go back but, as Bridget has already said, it seems to be constant rain out here at the moment. If we are not careful our suntan will be replaced by rust stains from all the wet!
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Lefkas, Ionian Islands, Greece

Peter writes ….



Well the sailing season is nearing a close and we are about to berth the boat in Lefkas, in the Greek Ionian for the winter. They say that 'man makes plans and God laughs'; that has certainly been the case this year. We probably should have seen the signs early on when we first had the boat lifted out in Turkey for a ‘simple’ antifouling. We ended up almost rebuilding the rudder as well as having substantial mechanical work done. Add into this, the fact that since Turkey we have been back to the UK several times more than we had expected; and on the ‘sailing front’, even had to turn back when we were half way across to Sicily due to engine failure, it is clear we weren’t meant to leave Greece this year – still it opens up fresh horizons for next season. The marina is right in the town of Lefkas so we won’t be short of things to do, but first we must go back to the UK for more medical checks – need ‘the crew’ in top form for next year!

The attempted crossing to Sicily was interesting if not disappointing - Force 4 winds on the nose, a contrary current, very lumpy seas, a closing weather window and then engine failure. The choice at the time was simple; push on without the ability to motor into what would have been an unknown destination and into the deteriorating weather or attempt to sail with the wind back to Greece and a location we felt we could sail into if need be. On the way back things calmed down and after much work, and some cursing, I solved the engine problem. (It had been a simple fuel blockage).

Not sure where the next update will come from but hope everyone is well and having a good time wherever you are.

Bridget writes…..

Fancy having to turn back to Greece, just when we were discussing which pasta meal we would have when we arrive!! It wasn’t all bad though as it did mean that we were able to meet up with our good friends Annie and Liam on the island of Kefalonia. We hired a car with them and toured the north of the island and although we looked, we couldn’t find Tom Cruise in Fiskado!

We are now lurking in the Ionian around the island of Lefkas. We have returned to Vliho and our favourite haunt – the Yacht Club where I have made good use of the new washing machine! We met up with a boat called Bacardi who we had previously seen in Paxos and thoroughly enjoyed the company of Malcolm and Ses, especially over the Sunday Roast.

The weather is still good but signs of autumn are beginning to appear. I don’t know if that is why the jelly fish have arrived in the bay, but they are one more reason not to swim here!! The sun rises later, the evenings are cooler and the occasional thunderstorm brings rain to wash the boat. A lot of our friends are finding marinas and/or heading home for the winter (or summer as in Australia!) and we wish them well.
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Folkestone, England, United Kingdom

Bridget writes…..

Anybody in the sailing world will know that things don't always go according to plan and that is how it is with us at the moment.

We came back to England for Peter’s Mum’s 80th birthday which was great fun. We surprised her in the pub on the evening of her birthday and for a change she was lost for words, so well done to everybody who kept our return a secret! We then enjoyed a family BBQ at the weekend, despite the rain!

I used this visit home to get a check up at the doctors, which is the reason we are still here. One of the results needed further investigation and more blood tests. Feeling a bit of a pin cushion, I am going back to the boat tomorrow to enjoy some sunshine and will return for the results next month. We were lucky to be able to use this time to go to Plymouth and stay with Helen though the weather was not on our side. As you will see from the photos, we still had a great time, walking on Dartmoor, body boarding at Bude and watching the boats in the Sound.

Peter writes ….



As Bridget has said, we have had to 'mark time’ lately but prior to our return to the UK we managed to fit in some inland travel. We journeyed North on the Greek mainland to an area known as the Pindus National Park. It is near the Albanian border and boasts some fabulous scenery as well as the deepest gorge in the world. It’s amazing how such a spectacular area is so poorly known amongst tourists and Greeks alike.

We are back to the boat in a few days, so hopefully we can get underway again and enjoy the warmer weather – its been pretty miserable in England lately and has certainly reinforced my reasons for wanting to get away.!!!!
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Corfu Town, Ionian Islands, Greece

Peter writes ….

Having got over losing the rugby to South Africa we have now moved on a few miles north. Our travels have taken in a pretty town called Preveza on the Greek mainland, and then the small island of Paxos and finally the larger island of Corfu.

The weather has gone through a bad patch over the past three weeks or so, as the photos hopefully show. I did my impression of singing in the rain in my fluorescent jacket on the quayside but no on e seemed that impressed. Perhaps it was the jacket, or maybe my voice; who knows!

Our trip through the Ionian is coming to a close shortly; after that it's on to Italy and lots of pasta and red wine.

We hope everything is well for everybody.



Bridget writes…..

Corfu town was lovely and we enjoyed wandering the narrow streets and people watching from the café’s. It is a cosmopolitan town and not as 'English’ as we thought it might be. I liked the idea of serving a tiny choc ice with the coffee instead of the ginger biscuit. We saw cricket practice on the grass in the park, boys playing football and dog walking lessons, all at ten o’clock at night! We also hired a car in Corfu and escaped the town to see the stunning coast line and blue sea from a different angle.

Since the rain it has been very hot with temperatures of about 35 degrees. Every afternoon the wind picks up and as I write it is about 20 knots (Force 5). Luckily it dies down of an evening so that we can cook supper on the BBQ which has been a great success. Last night was the first for a long time when we were able to study the stars as there are very few lights here. When we went to bed we could hear a banging noise which turned out to be fish swimming into the boat. It was most weird but after shining the torch on the water, they moved away, and we had a very peaceful sleep.
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Nidri, Greece

Peter writes ….

We are now on the island of Lefkas and well and truly back in the Greek Ionian. After an absence of nearly four years the increase in the number of boats is so striking, – it’s a bit too crowded now, even if it wasn’t before. Nonetheless, everywhere is lovely and green and the scenery is quite dramatic.

We recently encountered some wear on our mainsail so we have come to rest for a few days near a town called Nidri while we get it repaired. There is almost a British enclave here and although we normally shy away from such groups it has been particularly nice to meet up with some of the people all of whom have been very helpful. Our next moves will hopefully take us further north towards Corfu.

In the meantime I am off to watch the rugby ashore …………England v South Africa). I suspect I know the outcome in advance but opportunities to watch live sport are pretty rare with life afloat and have to be taken when possible.

Hope everyone is OK.

Bridget writes…..
We have travelled about 600 miles since we left Turkey about 5 weeks ago and have enjoyed the coast line of the Peleponese region of Greece, especially seeing dolphins and sword fish swimming close by (couldn’t capture the sword fish on camera!)
It has been great to slow right down and enjoy swimming in the clear water of the bays. We met our friends Keith and Penny and as usual, Keith was quick to get his movie camera out and film us as we played in the water. He has been the cause of me buying many a new swim suit!!
The hub of the British enclave is the Vliho Yacht Club which offers an excellent British menu including a Sunday roast which we thoroughly enjoyed with our friends. There are shelves full of books which you can swap or borrow and a washing machine – everything that cruisers are pleased to find! I think I will treat Peter to a Father’s Day lunch there this Sunday!!

PS – Hope the movie is viewable!
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Kalamata, Peloponnese, Greece

Peter writes ....

Over the past three weeks we've left Turkey, crossed the Aegean Sea, visited some incredible places, encountered winds of nearly 50 mph (Storm force 10!!), and saved someone's life.

Yes, we are now in a place called Kalamata in the Peloponese having travelled about 350 miles. We've moved on quite frequently but have found time to explore a few places on the way. Perhaps the most interesting was a little-known town of Monemvasia where there is an ancient walled city that is still occupied today. It was also the most eventful sail so far with winds of a steady 40 knots with a peak of 48 knots.(Weather forecasts here can be a bit out sometimes!!) To make matters worse the sail accidentally slipped out further just at a time when we needed to reduce it to the size of a handkerchief. It crossed my mind that we weren't far off of calling for help and it wasn't very reassuring when we got to the port of Monemvasia to find that the only lifeboat for miles was out of action and about to be towed all the way to Piraeus for repairs. Glad we didn't need it in the end!!

Over the next few weeks, wind, weather and fate permitting, we are heading North West into the Ionian and Corfu. Speak soon .....

Bridget writes.....
As Peter mentioned, Monemvasia was an eventful place. The wind finally abated and we were about to sit down for a peaceful supper when all of a sudden there was a splash and the sound of screams of absolute panic. I rushed up on deck to see Peter jumping to rescue a three year old boy who was face down and lifeless in the water. As is often the case - harbour walls are quite high and it was a struggle for him to raise the boy high enough for someone to reach and pull him out and thanks to Peter's agility, he was able to climb out too. Luckily it all ended well and the next morning a very tearful mother, Anna, and her children came to say a very big thank you. I don't think Horace will be allowed near the water again for a while!! The Port Police arrived, not to say thank you or well done, but to say that the life boat was being towed away at 0600 and that we would have to move our boat so that they could get out! No peace for the wicked!!
We have just arrived in Kalamata marina to shop and hopefully find a laundry and get a good night's sleep so I hope the thunder stops rumbling soon!!
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Marmaris, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey

Bridget writes.....

After a week of hard work whilst the boat was on the land we decided to take the bus to Izmir which I think is the fourth largest city in Turkey. We left the boat on a pontoon surrounded by Sunsail boats and under the watchful eye of Razadam the restaurant manager. We had to take the 0800 dolmus (minibus) into Marmaris and as it was raining steadily, Razadam phoned the dolmus driver and asked him to pick us up at the pontoon. He forgot to do this and after a second phone call he turned round and came back for us, as we watched from the other side of the bay!!
The coach to Izmir was more like a space age train with huge windows and very comfortable with a buffet service, included in the price. We arrived four hours later and were transferred by minibus to the city centre with a very small map in the Lonely Planet Guide. We had the address of our destination written down and when I showed it to the bus driver, a lady on the bus said that it was in her general direction. We jumped in a taxi and the lady stayed with us to make sure we found our destination.
Later on, we decided to walk to our hotel and as soon as we stopped to look at the map, several people offered to help. One young lady who was carrying a six foot tall coat stand walked with us to make sure we found the right road.
The next day, after an expensive 'breakfast' in Starbucks, we asked a policeman how to get to our next address. Not only did he stop the traffic for us to cross the busy dual carriageway, he also stopped the bus and told the driver where to let us off!!
We were very glad to leave the hustle and bustle of the city but the kindness of all the people we met will stay with us for a long time.


Peter writes ....

The past two weeks have been a bit of a blur. The boat was lifted out of the water at a marina not too far from Marmaris for routine maintenance which we expected would take about three or four days. Unfortunately things took a turn for the worse and we had to do a bit of surgery on the rudder. Wanting to make the most of the time out of the water we then decided to have some mechanical work done but, as ever, things took longer than hoped for. We were under a financial penalty if we overstayed our pre-booked time ashore so things got a bit hectic towards the end but we got there with a helping hand from the marina and those working on the boat.

We're back in the water now and are taking some friends out for a sail tomorrow. After that we are off on our travels. Should be fun ....................
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Marmaris, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey

Peter writes ....

Well, we have finally departed Marmaris to begin our Summer travels. It's still a bit chilly at times but generally the weather is getting warmer as the days go by. We plan to have the boat lifted out of the water at a nearby marina in a week's time so that we can do some annual maintenance on the hull, but after that we are off and heading West!! Not sure where, but time will tell. We will certainly miss all the many friends that we have made here over the last two years.

The past few weeks have seen some interesting episodes for us, like the time Albert and Pamela said they were organising a 'bit of a singsong in the bar' and did we feel like doing something stupid ..... we stupidly said 'yes' .... and that is exactly what we did. We sang the Frank and Nancy Sinatra song, 'Something Stupid' (Murdered it in front of an appreciative audience might be more truthful!)

On another occasion, an enthusiastic Dutchman came to our boat and said he knew of a Turkish man who was offering to teach scuba diving on the beach near the marina and he needed two others to make up the numbers. Guess what? We said 'yes' and subsequently spent many hours in the cold water or studying for an exam.

In between times the boat has had some further rigging added and together with other bits the final few days before departure were very hectic.

It was fantastic to see so many people there to wave us off and wish us 'bon voyage'. In turn we wish them all safe journeys and fair winds.


Bridget writes.....

Some people said that living in Yacht Marina was a bit like Coronation Street in that everybody knew your business but I can assure you that is not true...........
On the Saturday before my birthday we had planned to go out for a quiet meal with some friends but unfortunately they were both ill on that day. I suggested staying in but Peter disagreed, saying it would do us good to go out. You cannot imagine my surprise when we walked in to the restaurant to find about forty of our friends gathered for a surprise party for me! It had been planned for 2 weeks and I knew nothing about it and, more surprisingly, nobody had let slip what was going on!! It was a wonderful evening and I must thank Peter for organising such a great night and a big thank you to everyone who was there.
Some of my birthday was spent underwater doing the PADI Open Water Dive Course which involved staying in the water for an hour and going to a depth of 8 metres (25 ft) It took a bit of getting used to, trying to adjust the buoyancy to stay down and being able to rise up slowly as well as remembering to breathe! It was great fun and we look forward to seeing coral and more colourful fish the further west we go.
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Marmaris, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey

Peter writes ....

We've been back in Marmaris now for three weeks now and I'm not sure where the time has gone. We certainly seem to have got very little done to prepare the boat for the coming season.

I must say that we haven't sat back as some of the photos will show. We've been trekking, joined in some of the marina activities, received an important visitor and generally socialised with other yachting folk.

The best trekking was definitely when we went up into the snow in the Sandras mountains, some two hours from Marmaris. The scenery was stunning with snow everywhere and yet the sun shone, making it a warm and memorable time.

Then there was the St Patrick's Day party ....... more from Bridget on that one!!

If I look as though I've lost a few of my teeth in one of the shots it's because I have. I paid a visit to the dentist for a check-up and ended up having all of my crowns replaced. Talk about going into a shop to buy one carpet and coming out with five - no only joking. Ece, who you have seen in previous photos, was very gentle and it was not so painful really. Still big smiles all round from now on.

We understand that some of our friends from last winter such as Red Herring and Sunchaser are about to leave the Caribbean and head across the pacific; to them and everyone else we wish a safe and enjoyable time. It seems only yesterday that we were together. We obviously need to get a move on!

Take care and speak again soon.......


Bridget writes.....

The weather here in Marmaris has been variable since we have been back and we have had strong winds and rain and it has been cold. When the sun does come out it is lovely so we seem to be changing clothes on a regular basis. Peter even got his new shorts out!
We were extremely pleased to welcome my daughter Helen on board White Rose this week even though it was a flying visit. She managed to get enough time off to come and stay the night and the sun shone the next day for her to unwind, albeit briefly!
We took her to the St. Patrick's Night party in the marina where we had fish and chips followed by a sing song in the bar. Music was provided by some of the live aboard musicians and it gave Helen a small insight into our life on the boat!
I really enjoyed our trip to the snow. It was great to see such a vast area of virgin snow sparkling in the sun.
Strawberries are available in the market again and I have made some jam but will have to make more this week as it gets eaten very quickly!!
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