TravelStream™ news feed for member nkohare on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/nkohare en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:00:19 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1199115900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1199115900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1199115900/tpod.html Mon, 31 Dec 2007 11:00:19 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Coconut Grove, Florida, United States

After a few days of sleeping and general bed rest, I went with Shiloh
and friends to the King Mango Strut in Coconut Grove on Dec 30. About
26 years ago, some local people were told that the couldn't march in
the Orange Bowl Parade because their instruments were not suitable
(kazoos). So what are some reject parade marchers to do - why start
their own parade of course. Parade is totally without money and some
may say lacking in taste, but they do have a sense of humour.





My favorite entry this year: bushes against Bush. You gotta click on the picture to read their signs for yourself.





So, I hope you all enjoyed the pictures of my travels. The trip may
have cost more than anticipated, but hey, blood pressure is back down
to normal range without medication, I lost a few pounds without even
trying, and after 20 years of living here, I resolve to stop
complaining about the weather in southern Florida. I think I'm going to
Chile next year.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1198249320/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1198249320/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1198249320/tpod.html Mon, 31 Dec 2007 10:43:19 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Dublin, Ireland

Literaly - Dublin fever. About 101 F that started less than 24 hours after
I arrived.



I
did make it out to Newgrange on the winter solstice no less. I was not
one of the lucky 20 or 25 (out of 32,000) that were allowed in the
central chamber to see it lit up on sunrise on
winter solstice.
Actually, the sunrise lits up the inner chamber for about 6 days around
the solstice. And at the Dowth chamber a few kilometers away, the inner
chamber is lit up by the setting sun on the winter solstice.



I
found the short winter days (about 8 hours if lucky) depressing. And on
a fever that kept me in bed for 36 hours straight, with no one to fetch
me hot toddies. Not the glamourous part of world traveling that some of
you imagine. As soon as I was able to get up and find internet access,
I booked me a flight home. Found a flight leaving within 18 hours.



So,
after about 20 hours on travelling, I arrived back to the sub-tropics
late on December 24. The high fever broke somewhere over the Atlantic
Ocean. However, still had intermittent fever for a few days, along with
a hacking cough.



The dogs were rather non-plussed at
my return. Their life was good enough without me. I'm almost back
to full health, and will be getting out and about soon. However, my
plans for working on writing did not go quite as planned, so I'll be
sitting myself in front of the computer for days on end to catch up.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1198180980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1198180980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1198180980/tpod.html Fri, 21 Dec 2007 15:07:50 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Madrid, Spain

Spent 4 days in Madrid visiting friends. Figured out how to use the Metro all on my own, without supervision. And sampled at least 2 tapas bars each day.

My camera was running low on batteries, and could not find a power cord to recharge, so few pictures.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1197836760/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1197836760/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1197836760/tpod.html Thu, 20 Dec 2007 15:28:59 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Rome, Italy

First, I should have mentioned weeks ago that you can click on the pictures to get a larger view, and some pictures (not all) have more detail given if you click on the pictures.


Three full days and four nights in Rome, Italy. A side trip taken on a whim, cost a few more euro dollars than I had expected, but I'd have to say it was worth it.


I know that the Roman Empire was covered in those world history classes back so many years ago. At the time, the only thing that impressed me was Hadrian's wall, which was built between present day England and Scotland to keep those Picts and Celts out of the Roman Empire. Political intrigue, territorial conquests, and who poisoned who for what reason didn't appeal to me that much. I have forgotten much of what I had memorized.


I was truly impressed with the remains of the Roman Empire. I did not go into a single church, and I avoided the art museums. Only so much can be done in three days. I spent it mostly wandering around the city looking at archeological ruins, outdoor monuments, taking two hours in a nice café for midday meal while reading an english language newspaper, then wandering some more to walk off that pasta.


Some pictures posted. However, it is so difficult to capture the scale of ruins, and monuments and fountains. The fact that these are the remains of buildings constructed 1600 to 2000 years ago I find remarkable. Also remarkable was the re-use of building materials. Taking the travertine from the Colosseum for other buildings, moving statues to display in your own palace, the bronze from Pantheon re-purposed for the dome in St. Peter's Basilica. The church did so much to protect buildings, including the Pantheon and the Colosseum in part by re-purposing them as churches or in recognition of the early Christians.


So, similarities and differences between Romania and Rome. Well, you can get ripped off by taxi driver's in both countries. Romania's small businesses tend to be related to cellular phones, currency exchange, and small shops for buying basic groceries and cigs. In Rome, shops were dominated by those selling beauty supplies, beauty salons, and tailors. In many ways, I fit in better in Romania. If only there was a little more sun, and fewer gray, dreary days.


On Sunday 16 December, I flew to Madrid to visit friends. On December 20, it is east to Dublin.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1197277980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1197277980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1197277980/tpod.html Mon, 10 Dec 2007 04:23:23 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Sibiu, Romania

Not much for writing the past week, and not much to write about. However, I thought I'd post to at least let y'all know that all is fine in Sibiu, Romania. And I'll be traveling again soon and not sure what my access to email will be. Also, since I'll be leaving Romania, the cell phone will no longer work. So no emergencies from the home front please.


The plan is to leaving Romania on Dec 12, flying to Rome, Italy. On Dec 16, fly to Madrid, Spain. On Dec 20, fly to Dublin, Ireland. I'll be in Dublin until Dec 27, after that I don't know yet. And I still have to confirm that I can catch my plane ride home on Jan 4 by picking up the connection to Miami in London, rather than flying back to Bucuresti to fly to London to fly to Miami.


It all came about after a few gray, overcast days. I just wanted some sun. And sitting in an internet café, having a beer or two, looking at how cheap flights were, I decided to go chase blue skies and sun. Total airfare for all this flying is about $225, and would have been cheaper if I had less baggage.


Of course, since making travel plans, Sibiu has been nothing but blue skies and sun. No snow on ground though. Life has been trying to get some writing for work done (with very limited success), and afternoon meal at a restaurant. I've had some excellent food, and some not so good. I never, ever imagined pasta to come with red tomato sauce AND topped off with a white sauce, based mainly on sour cream. I still ate it, but it was one of those meals that I should have known better not to eat. I'm sticking with the local dishes now.


Still amazed that here you can get a cup of tea for about $2, and 500 ml of excellent local beer for about $2. There are some really tough choices to make at 10:30 in the morning in those internet cafes to send email.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1196507580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1196507580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1196507580/tpod.html Sat, 01 Dec 2007 06:41:17 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Cavnic, Romania

Left Monday 26 Nov to drive up to Cavnic, in the Maramures region of northern
Romania. Known for wooden churches, ornate carved wooden gates, plinka
(homemade hooch). And you can spit and hit Ukraine. Cell phones pick up Ukraine
system.

One of the wooden churches visited was built in 1364 (yep, that is 1364 not a typo).
Churches built without nails - used mortis and tenon joints and wooden pegs. Painted
on the inside, although since most lack heating (still), paintings are not in the best of
conditions. Many are open to visitors, although you have to know where to go in the
village to find the person with the key. Luckily, I traveled with a Romanian that was
able to ask for directions. I never would have been able to manage without someone
with me that spoke Romanian. Still no heating in churches - you're there to worship
god, not be comfortable. There are benches for older people to sit on. But in
Romanian Orthodox church -you stand. There are some Roman Catholic and Greek
Orthodox, where you sit, stand, sit, kneel, stand, etc. I would think in this cold
weather, it would be best to have the people moving about just to keep warm.

One of the cemeteries visited was relatively new - but with an unusual tradition.
Maramures region is a wood culture. In the 1930's, a local carver started to create
intricately carved crosses, painted blue (representing soul going to heaven), with
humourous inscriptions about the person. There is a likeness of the person, usually
relating them to their work. Interesting cemetery, but people packed in there so
closely, I preferred the more traditional cemetery with trees and more space in
between. Even, or I should say especially for eternity, my own space. Guess why
that's why I'm going for cremation. Infinite space.

I was told, but thought I just misunderstood the first time, that people here will buy
not only their grave site, but their grave marker and have it placed. But no, no, no.
See photos. Inscription usually "Here lies (insert name, date of birth) Rest in Peace".
Nothing like being prepared. Noticed it in several cemeteries. Of course, I would find
it odd to see my name on a gravestone (regardless of my preference for cremation). I
wonder if these people visit their graves beforehand? What if you decide you don't
like the space or who you're next to? My favorite - dual marker for two born in 1925,
with date of death 20(blank, blank).

Plinka. Homemade pear or plum brandy. In the subtropics, I'd say it would put hair on
your chest. Here, I think the kick of the drink is absorbed into the body, just to keep
you warm. No energy from the drink left to put hair on your chest. Any way, my chest
isn't getting hairy yet. I'll keep drinking the plinka. Interesting think is, there will be
a fully formed, whole pear or plum in a wine bottle. The bottle is put around the
fertilized flower back in spring, and the fruit develops within the bottle. Preparing for
my winter hooch to keep warm, that I can understand.

I was told that even for among Romanians, the joke about Cavnic (the place I stayed)
was that it was where the hawks put on the brakes and turned around. Really lovely
area. Cold. Did I mention cold? One night out the local ski hill. Never having been on
skis, I went to the tubing run. Not very long run; 2 minutes climbing up, 45 seconds
going down. I had on my ipod "Carribean playlist" of Beach Boys, Jimmy Buffet, Harry
Belafonte, Surfin Sarfaris. You sit in an innertube that has a bottom. But let me tell
you that the bottom doesn't do that much to keep your bum off of the snow/ice.
After 30 minutes, my bum was frozen. I think it took 2 hours to thaw out. Even with
plinka and plenty of hot wine.

Friday 30 Nov back in Brasov. Where to next? I have ideas, but not sure. Not France.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195719120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195719120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195719120/tpod.html Thu, 22 Nov 2007 03:27:59 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Brasov, Romania

So I know at least one of you out there has a date somewhere before January 4 that
you'll think I'll return by. Maybe y'all can start a betting pool of dates.

Hint: never on a Thursday (family joke).

Being as I can't find a turkey (only the occasional turkey wing) or pumpkin, or
cranberries, or pecans, or sweet potatoes, no Thanksgiving for me this year.

At least not the dinner. I thought I could at least tell you what I'm thankful for since
I'm outside the USA:

1. Sun and blue skies most days of the year (that's a Florida thing, not relevant to
some of you living in the northern climes). Today (Thanksgiving) is the third
consecutive day of sun in Romania in the month since I've been here. The record
before was one consecutive day.
2. White toilet paper. Most here is pink. Hard to tell when you've done a proper job.
3. Not having to worry about sliding on the ice, off the sidewalk, down into the street
which is also icy. I swear, driver gets 10 points from coming within 1 meter of
pedestrian in cross walk, and 50 points if he can make you yield.
4. MY dogs - they hug me back as best they can, not someone else. Other dogs just
aren't the same. I only hope the that they are not planning to immigrate to Canada to
stay with their new best friends.

There are other things I'm thankful for, not necessarily related to where I am in the mental or physical world - a warm, dry place to sleep, a good meal, cheap but high quality beer and wine, internet and cell phone to keep in touch with those back home, being born in USA where opportunity was available to someone average willing to work.

So I'll be thinking of the feasts I've missed this Thursday, but thankful I've had the
opportunity to travel and get a new perspective. I haven't quite figured out what it is
yet, so don't place bets for me returning in the next few weeks. Have passport, have
credit card, will travel.

Good eating to you all.

With love,

Nancy
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195223820/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195223820/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195223820/tpod.html Fri, 16 Nov 2007 09:38:52 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Brasov, Romania

Short post, just so I can add pin dot to map of where I now am. That would be in
Brasov. I was here back in June. Main historical part a little different now without all
of the outdoor tables crowding the walkways. Walking thru town on Nov 13, there
were a few snow flurries. As divine providence would have it, what lie ahead of my
very own feet just a few meters but an "Irish" pub. Of course, I might have to
disagree with the "Irish" part after visiting the establishment. I couldn't get a Black
and Tan. Did have a Guinness though, strictly for medicinal purposes against the cold
weather. As Jimmy Buffett would say, it's five o'clock somewhere.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195135500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195135500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1195135500/tpod.html Fri, 16 Nov 2007 09:33:49 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Suceava, Romania

I'm finally getting around to posting about trip through the Painted Monasteries
(Romanian orthodox churches) of Bucovina, in northeastern Romania, near Ukraine.
This is not the official tour guide source, but I will try to give background as best as I
can remember/find.

There are 7 or 9 (sorry different sources list different numbers). Most are UNESCO
sites. Some currently have active communities of nuns ("monasteries" here used for
sisters as well as brothers). None are still used for services for the general public.
Since most were founded as monastic communities, I'm not sure that they were ever
really used as the "Sunday" church for the locals. Each was built in early to mid
1500's, with painting completed anywhere from 5 to 50 years after built. While not
unusual to paint interior of orthodox church, painting the exterior was unique to this
northeastern part of Romania. Not found anywhere else in the world.

Many of the scenes are repeated at several of the monasteries, although the details of
differ. And in these paintings, the details are so incredible. One of my favorite scenes
was the river of fire descending from Jesus to the creature of hell. The subtle details
of lost souls in the river becoming less distinct as descend further down toward hell
was hard to capture in a photo, but nonetheless evident in person. In one monastery,
the scene bordering the right side of the river of fire had animals (lions, wolves) with
human heads, arms or legs coming out of their mouths. This represented the re-
unification of the entire body for those that were called to heaven but had died by
mauling of animal. Guess it was a concern for the locals in the past.

In one of the monasteries, the two of the interior rooms were painted as calendars.
Each panel represented a day of the year (6 months in one room, 6 months in another
room). The panel was painted with a scene or event for the patron saint of that day,
or a significant biblical event.

Each of the scenes tended to identify the important person. It would help to read
Cyrillic, since Romania didn't adopt Latin alphabet until more recently (mid to late
1800's I believe).

At a specific place in each of the monasteries was a picture of the family of the
person who had paid for the building/painting. The family was depicted presenting a
an accurate miniature of the church to Jesus. I didn't see it in the monasteries I went
too, but in one that I did not visit the picture of one of the sons was obliterated after
he converted to Islam.

Not being the regular church going type as of late, my recollections of my catholic
upbringing may not be quite accurate. However, here the connections and teaching of
the old testament seem to be given equal weight. Also, the Tree of Jesse (which I had
never heard of) was a common scene on most of the painted monasteries. This traces
the lineage of Jesus thru Mary back to Jesse - the father of David. Emphasis is placed
on the royal lineage of Jesus. Joseph is barely featured (well, virgin birth, I guess he
didn't do much (sorry folks - couldn't help myself; I'll do my penance in the
morning)). Although John the Baptist is frequently featured on the left of Jesus (Mary
on the right).

Some of the monasteries were neglected for long periods of time (when trying to
stamp out the local religious believes). 500 years of weather has taken a toll on the
exterior paintings of all. Each was built with the "altar" in the eastern part (toward
Jerusalem/rising sun). Entrance was always on the west side. Usually had a
transitional area with lots of openings to outside world - transition between the
secular and spiritual place. This was usually where the rive of fire to hell was painted
- as a reminder of where your mind should be while in church. The southern facades
tended to be sheltered the most from weather, and tends to retain vivid colour and
detail. On most, the norther facade is barely evident.

The fresco technique used was very thin. I tried to picture from side showing small
section of remaining fresco. It was only a few cm (about 1 inch at most). That these
survive at all is amazing.

Since many had been untended for long periods, graffiti is evident. You can see the
names and dates of people (look for the 1846 date).

After leaving Bucovina, I had a rental car and drove through the mountains down to
Brasov. There was snow on the sides of the road, and well quite different passing a
horse drawn cart on a curving mountain road. I had Jimmy Buffett on the ipod (20
degrees and the hockey game's on....somebody get me some boat drinks...), and
missed the turn to drive thru the Bicaz Gorge, which was one of the main reasons to
drive myself. Realized the mistake 30 to 40 minutes later. Oh well, still was a
beautiful scenic drive. Up till this point, I have been in areas of Romania that I had
been to before. I can tell you that I like Transylvania better than the other regions.

Sorry for long post - but I hope you have taste of the Painted Monasteries.

I recently had a request for more pictures of locals - will work on that. But since I
don't have pictures of most of y'all, you should appreciate that I am not one to take a
lot of pictures.

And finally, thank you all so very much for the weather posting of southern Florida
and the south of France.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1194779400/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1194779400/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/nkohare/romania_2007/1194779400/tpod.html Sun, 11 Nov 2007 06:13:19 -0500 Romanian Road Trip: Camping and bird banding for a few weeks where the Danube River meets the Black Sea. After that, the only plan is a rental car and being back in Bucharest for the flight home.

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Suceava, Romania

Well I spent a few days in Suceava in northeastern Romania, close to Ukranian border. I've had request for more pictures of locals, and I will try to work on that.
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