TravelStream™ news feed for member neilandchris on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/neilandchris en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:15:44 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1258030440/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1258030440/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1258030440/tpod.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 08:15:44 -0500 Swaziland

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Johannesburg, Gauteng, South Africa

Sindi told us just before we went to the restaurant for dinner on Tuesday evening that Mduduzi was coming back to Hlane the following morning early.  So on that Wednesday morning we waited to see if he would appear before we left Hlane.  Sorry to say that we had to leave without saying goodbye to him as we had a long journey ahead of us back to Johannesburg.We left Hlane and drove through Swaziland passing through Manzini and Mbabane and on towards the Ngwenya Border Post.  The officials at both border posts were very pleasant and we had our passports stamped with another 3 month visa to stay in South Africa until January 2010.  Oh how we wished that we could, but we had our flight booked for 9th October back to the UK.The drive from Ngwenya to Jo'burg was really pleasant, with some absolutely lovely scenery.  We also had to stop to take photos of widow birds with full plumage as they flew across the roads into the fields.  We stopped on the way for lunch at a really nice and pleasant Spur.  How we will miss the great food and service that you get in Africa.Just before arriving in Jo'burg we drove past some coal mines, echoes of Stoke on Trent as it used to be in our youth.  Well Neil's and mine anyway, but these are hugh coal mines with massive machinery and vehicles.Heinz met us at Ghandi's and gave us a really warm welcome, our room was ready.  We chatted to Nick (the Australian who has set up Wicked Campers Africa) in the hostel's cozy bar.  Neil and I walked down to Eastgate Shopping Centre the following day.  Our last night in Africa saw us heading a very short distance from the hostel to a Portuguese Restaurant for an absolutely excellent meal - this place can't be recommended too highly.Friday 9th October saw us back at Jo'burg Airport.  We had a really nice meal at the Ocean's Basket in the airport - just fish and chips but great service and lovely food.  We had our rucksacks cling filmed/shrink wrapped before handing them in to the Emirates desk.  The flight to Dubai took off on time, food on the plane was good too.  Then a transfer from Dubai to Heathrow, food not quite as good but still very nice.  Must admit Emirates are a nice airline to travel with.No trouble at Heathrow, bags all arrived and plastic wrapping still in place (can recommend it for rucksack and holdalls).  At Heathrow Central Bus Station we took the bus back to Stoke, stopping for a transfer at Digbeth Birmingham Bus Station. 
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/11/1256906584/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/11/1256906584/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/11/1256906584/tpod.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 09:02:14 -0400 Swaziland

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Hlane Swaziland, Swaziland

Hlane Royal Game Park, Swaziland 21st & 22nd September 2009We had decided to take a last leisurely drive through Kruger taking the secondary road from Berg en Daal to Crocodile Bridge with the hope of seeing more wildlife. It was a very pleasant route and we only saw a few other travellers and yet more black rhino.After Crocodile Bridge we drove through the entrance gate and onto Komatispoort where we brought some fuel pipe.  Neil hoped to mend the pipe between the two tanks so that we would have the use of the two tanks again.  After Komatispoort we looked for signs for the border post to Swaziland, we could only see the one for Mozambique and as we had no intention of going that way we stayed on the main N4 road to Nelspruit and looked for the next border post.  Jeppes's Reef border post was well signposted and it wasn’t too busy and we were through into Swaziland very easily.  Yet again we had to buy R50 road tax but this time it was for Swaziland.We stayed on the Piggs Peak main road for a short while before turning off taking the left main road towards Simunye and Manzini.  This road is in good condition although we had to keep an eye out for cattle on the road.  One cow was lying dead at the side of the road, all bloated and around her were 3 people with knives ready to start cutting her up.  Food cannot be wasted in Africa.  In Simunye we stopped to do some shopping at the local supermarket, it used to be part of the Score group but now it is part of Boxer Supermarkets.  Then it was onto Hlane, which to Neil and myself we regard as 'home’ as we spent two months here last year working with All Out Africa doing the marabou stork project.It was great to be back at Hlane and some of the staff we remembered and they remembered us too.  We could see the All Out Africa tents but there was no sign that they were there, still it was early on a Monday afternoon so there was time for them to turn up.  We pitched our tents and enjoyed the peace and quiet that comes with staying at Hlane.  The weather was very hot today and there was no breeze at all.  Not long after we had arrived a vehicle pulled up at the All Out camp and Mduduzi got out of the vehicle.  Neil and I walked over and Mduduzi who fell to the floor with shock at seeing his ‘mum and dad’ back in Swaziland.  Mduduzi then has to meet his ‘brother’ Paul.  Jason then turns up too and we all get talking to each other.  We also meet Chrissie and Elaine two other members of All Out’s staff.  That afternoon and evening we spend time talking to Mduduzi catching up with what has happened for all of us over the last year, talking around the campfire brings back many memories.The next day Mduduzi and Elaine went to check on the marabou storks whilst we drove to one of the waterholes where there is a bird hide and drive around the game park.  Back at camp Neil and Paul took some photos of crested guinea fowl, plus a paradise flycatcher in full plumage and a puff back.  Hlane is a great camp for birders.  They also got a lovely photo of the elephant’s and their young at the waterhole next to camp.  That night Mduduzi cooks us an excellent dinner which included rice pap.  Elaine joined us all around the campfire and we sit talking whilst one of the elephants is at the fence not 10 metres away from us, and it was pulling and breaking branches from the nearby trees.Hlane Camp is an excellent camp to stay at.  There is no electric here and very little phone signal.  The ablution block is lovely and the water warmed by the donkey system, the rangers keep the fire going to warm the water.  At night there are paraffin lights put into the ablution blocks.  There is a restaurant and curio shop, communal kitchen and lovely boma’s to sit and relax in.  The rangers and staff are excellent, as with the majority of Swazi’s they are very friendly.  Apart from the camping ground there are also huts and bungalows to stay in which are excellent.  At night if there are enough people in the camp the rangers and staff put on a small show of traditional dancing and singing.  It is great to see them performing. Hlane is part of Big Game Parks, which also includes Mkaya and Mlilwane.What we saw on the way from Berg en Daal to Hlane:Elephant, mongoose, impala, kudu, rhino, saddle billed stork, buffalo, vulture, buzzard, eagle, egyptian goose, giraffe, monkey, squirrel, waterbuck, fish eagle, warthog and zebra.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907547/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907547/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907547/tpod.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 09:01:22 -0400 Swaziland

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Hlane Swaziland, Swaziland

Hlane Royal Game Park, Swaziland 5th & 6th October 2009We broke camp early and managed to pack dry tents, it had only rained slightly during the night. We set off down the road towards Piggs Peak, this was very steep in places but the views were magnificent.  Then we took the M2 towards Manzini and Hlane, it is a main road but after a short distance the tar ran out and we were on dirt.  Well we were still in Africa so it has to be expected.  Then Neil said there was something up with the landcruiser, so he pulled into the side.  After some time a South African gentleman pulled alongside and we used his phone to called Mike at Just Done It. Mike must have made a few phone calls as eventually a mechanic called Victor turned up and found that the timing belt had snagged so the Green Mamba was now 'dead'.   Chris from 3 Lions in Jo’burg also rang us on Victor’s phone to say that a replacement car had been organized for us and we needed to ring Europcar in Mbabane the following morning.  Just before dark Victor had got his tow truck and we arrived back in Piggs Peak.  Victor then took us to a couple of Bed & Breakfasts and one run by a very nice Zimbabwean lady had room for us.  So we stayed there for the night.The next morning we used the phone in the B & B to ring the rental company in Mbabane and we arranged for the Toyota Yaris to be brought to the B & B.  Then we went to Victor’s garage in Piggs Peak to collect some more of our belongings out of the Green Mamba.  Onward then towards Hlane taking the other main road north of Piggs Peak which is tarred all the way to Simunye.  In Simunye we stopped at The Country Club for lunch and said hello to Thea & Cliff who run the Club.  We knew them from our stay last year.  Then after a lovely lunch as usual there we went on to Hlane.  This time we had no camping equipment with us so we asked Sindi what accommodation was available.  Were we in luck or what?  We had the Kings Cottage, pure luxury and we could really recommend staying in the bungalows at Hlane.  The Kings Cottage accommodates 8 people and has a large living area, a large kitchen with gas fridge and cooker, a large bathroom, and 4 large bedrooms.  We had a view over the waterhole where the elephants, rhino and other animals come to drink and where the hippos could be seen and heard.   That night we had an excellent meal in the restaurant and one of the staff came and lit the paraffin lamps in our cottage and placed them in the rooms.Sindi told us that Mduduzi was not in camp but would be coming the following day early in the morning.  We hoped to see him again before we left Swaziland.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907390/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907390/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907390/tpod.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:58:59 -0400 Swaziland

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Malalotja Swaziland, Swaziland

Malalotja Nature Reserve, Swaziland, 2nd, 3rd & 4th October 2009The following morning was damp and misty as we packed up the tents. We left at 8.00am and drove towards Mbabane where the weather conditions worsened.  The by-pass road past Mbabane is a very steep climb and the mist really dropped down so that visibility was very poor.  After Mbabane and before we reached the border post we turned off right on the main road towards Malalotja and Piggs Peak.Malalotja Nature Reserve is another Swaziland National Trust Commission Reserve and this is an outstanding camp.  There were individual pitches beautifully set out; you would have to see them to appreciate the work gone into them.  Each had its own braii/open fire, concrete table, and screened from other pitches by vegetation.  Some were in more shelter than others, all with nice views of the mountains around.  No electric, and a good clean ablution block with laundry and washing up facilities.  The reception was a good walk away from the camp and there was a small shop selling basic supplies and firewood too.  There are loads of walking trails to viewpoints, picnic sites and the falls, together with game and bird viewing.  When we were there we were lucky to see some lovely flowers in bloom.  There were also cabins to stay in and they were set out nicely on the hillside, but they are not in view or near to the campsite.  All the views around were awesome. We were the only ones on camp, and after pitching the tents we went for a walk towards a picnic site about 2km from the camp.  It was really pleasant and this is considered to be the last wilderness in Swaziland, it covers a vast area in the western part of the country.  The next day we were woken by the birds calling, there was still mist around the hills and even though the sun tried to come through it was not successful.  We went for a drive when the mist cleared but as we were driving around it came down again and it was so thick we had to drive slowly.  Not that we were likely to meet another car but we didn't want to take the wrong road back.  Back at camp even though the mist kept coming and going Neil managed to get a photo of a widowbird in breeding plumage so he was really pleased.  That afternoon at camp we managed to get some nice photos and videos of the birds around camp plus the blesbok.  We retired to the tents early that night as with the mist around it felt quite chilly.The following morning we waited for the weather to clear before we set off for a walk.  It was a fairly long walk but well worth it as the views were awesome and there were some beautiful flowers in bloom.  We headed back when the weather started to turn; it looked as if it was going to rain.  New arrivals on camp later that afternoon were a group of overlanders (Nomads truck) – ugh!!  Luckily for us with how the pitches were spaced out we didn’t hear the noise they generated, and with rain setting in just before dark they retired to their tents early enough.We saw:Blesbok, weavers, bulbuls, widowbirds, shrikes, thrushes, lot of alpine type plants, quelea’s, squirrels, dassies, duiker, red winged starlings, ravens, crested barbets, stone chats, and sunbirds.  As my Swaziland plant and animal book is in Queensland with Helen I will have to identify the plants when next in Queensland.Tomorrow we are going back to Hlane and hopefully we shall see Mduduzi again.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907208/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907208/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907208/tpod.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:56:21 -0400 Swaziland

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Mlilwane Swaziland, Swaziland

Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary Ezulwini Valley Swaziland, 29th & 30th September and 1st & 2nd October 2009We took a leisurely time breaking camp at Mlawula as we didn't have too far to go to reach our next destination. The weather was still cloudy but warm.  We drove from Mlawula, through Simunye and past Hlane, through Manzini and onto Mlilwane, which is situated in the Ezulwini Valley. We had heard about this camp last year but had never visited it; it is another Big Game Parks Camp.  We were really surprised just how nice it was and the scenery is just stunning.  This is another great camp for walking, and seeing birds and wildlife.  When we got to reception one of the members of staff walked up to us.  Petros was at Hlane last year and he remembered us, so we stopped to chat to him.  He told us all about the walks and we decided to do the 1 hour walk that afternoon, we saw zebra, impala, nyala, warthogs, weavers and bee-eaters to name a few.  An overland group pitched next to us but they were a small group of middle aged/elderly people and must admit they were quiet.  That night we heard the drums as the Mlilwane staff performed for the visitors.  Soon they will be hosting the annual dance contest for the 3 Big Game Parks staff from Hlane, Mkaya and Mlilwane to decide who gets the trophy this year. It rained around dinnertime so that meant taking cover in the tents.The next morning the rain had stopped but the mountains were covered with mist.  We set out for the Execution Rock Trail, which turned out to be a really pleasant and exhilarating walk past the Hippo Pool and up the mountain track.  We saw quite a few animals on the way including an owl and mountain reedbuck.  It was supposed to be a 4-hour trek but we did it in just over 3 hours, still it hadn’t been too warm or else it would have taken us longer.  That afternoon we just chilled out around camp as the sun came out and it started to warm up again.  We took more photos, as there were plenty of birds and wildlife around.  The next day we took a drive around the Reserve before driving to The Gables Shopping Centre.  Back at camp we had an early lunch and then an early dinner as we had seen the build up of clouds around the mountains.  We managed to cook dinner on the open fire before the rain started.  With it there was thunder and lightening, quite a spectacle.   During the rain a large group of motorhomes turned up just as it was turning dark and they took up most of the camp.  It rained heavy in the night but the storm passed over after a few hours.Mlilwane Camp is really nice even though it is very popular and was quite busy when we were there.  Not only do you have the camping area there are traditional beehive huts, a backpackers and other accommodation to stay in.  There is a restaurant, education centre, large reception area, bike hire, walks, game drives and plenty of other things to do too.  Situated in the Ezulwini Valley means that you are also just a short drive to local craft markets, restaurants, visitor attractions, and shops and in between the two towns of Mbabane (Swazi capital) and Manzini (international airport here).Whilst on the reserve we saw:Hippos, crocodiles, nyala, impala, blesbok, mountain reedbuck, kudu, warthogs, owl, bee-eaters, weavers, herons, egyptian geese, zebra, wildebeest, roan antelope, springbok and vervet monkeys.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907103/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907103/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/13/1256907103/tpod.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:53:16 -0400 Swaziland

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Mlawula Swaziland, Swaziland

Mlawula Nature Reserves, Swaziland, 25th, 26th, 27th, 28th September 2009We set off early and drove back up the N2, boy were there some very erratic South African drivers on the road that morning. We stopped off at Mkuze at the local Wimpey and had a cooked breakfast, very pleasant young waitress served us.  We then drove onto a different border post, Salitje, and we were the only ones there!!  The staff were very pleasant at both posts.  The road in Swaziland here was being regraded and so we had to drive quite slowly but we met no other traffic.  At Nsoko we hit the tar road again and so made good time to Simunye.  I tried to get on the internet to check my emails at the local library but was unable to as the 3 desks were all busy.  Just north of Simunye is Mlawula Nature Reserve, one of the Swaziland National Trust Commission's camps.  Last year we had spent a day here with Ara, Jason and Mduduzi walking one of the riverbeds looking for vulture nests.  We had seen the campsite then and thought it looked lovely.  We were not to be disappointed this year.It is a very large camping area, with a good ablution block with laundry sinks and washing up area.  Water taps are around the campsite together with braii’s.  We originally booked just 2 nights but ended up staying 4 nights as we enjoyed it so much.  There was just us and a man with his 2 children staying on this camp.  There was loads of space between us so it felt as if we have the camp to ourselves.  With the peace and quiet we got a really good nights sleep.Saturday Neil and I went into town to do some shopping, we looked for Lindimwe a friend of ours from last year but she was working that day.  That was a shame as we would have loved to have seen her again.  Back at camp we went for a drive to Python Pools and Hyena Pools where we were able to do some walking.  This reserve is a really nice walking area, we brought a map showing and describing the trails.  We saw quite a few animals including wildebeest, kudu and nyala.  The weather was extremely hot again today.  When we get back to camp a young german couple arrived, they come over to us for a short chat, they stayed just the one night.  Sunday morning it was really hot even early in the morning.  We went for another walk this time we did the cave walk which should have taken us 4 hours, we did it in just over 2 hours.  Paul had now realized just how different the heat was here in Africa compared to Queensland.  In the afternoon we all chill out sitting in the boma near to our pitch as it is too hot to do any walking.  Paul and Neil updated the photos on the computer whilst I did my writing.  It didn’t cool down at all until it was nearly dark and then it got windy.  Neil and I remembered learning about anabatic and catabatic winds last year.Monday morning and we were up early again to do one of the walking trails in the cooler part of the day.  The weather was cloudy but it still felt very humid when we were walking.  Another really nice walk up the mountain towards Mozambique with great views over Swaziland.  Neil and Paul went for another walk in the afternoon down the riverbed taking yet more photos.This is a lovely camp with picnic tables and benches dotted around it.  In the boma were metal tables and chairs too.  The facilities were good, apparently it can get busy but when we were there it was very peaceful and quiet.  There is no electricity and little phone coverage.  The staff at the gate were very pleasant.  As with Hlane the gate closes here at 6pm and reopens 6am, so you can’t get out of the reserve at night.  Would we go back here, the answer is definitely given a chance.We saw: Impala, baboons, monkeys, wildebeest, kudu, klipspringers, steenbok, skinks, lizards, warthogs, vultures, red headed woodpecker, kingfishers, sunbirds, puff backs, crested guinea fowl, black collared barbets, chin spot batis, bataleurs, owls, bats, wood hoopoe, helmeted shrikes, fire finch, doves, fire flies, mousebirds, thrushes, monitor lizard.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/12/1256906890/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/12/1256906890/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/12/1256906890/tpod.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:50:20 -0400 Kwa Zulu Natal South Africa

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Umlalazi Kwa Z, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Umlalazi Camp, KZN Wildlife, 23rd & 24th September 2009We were sorry to leave Hlane but had planned to return after a short trip down to Kwa Zulu Natal. So it was a goodbye to Mduduzi and we promised to return.  The weather had turned yet again and it was cool and cloudy with drizzle as we drove south to the Lavimisa border post.  This border post was quite busy and we had to queue to have out passports stamped into South Africa, there were lots of trucks using this border post.   As we made good time we decided to miss out one of the camp we thought of using and drove down the N2 onto Umlalazi Camp which is situated on the coast.We arrived at 1.15pm and as the office didn't open until 2pm we had to wait a while before we could book in and pitch.  It is a nicely situated camp, with a short walk to the beach and it is part of a nature reserve.  It is one of the KZN Wildlife Camps.  We went for a walk along one of the trails, very pleasant even though it was warm and humid.  Sitting around the camp it was very nice to see a couple of zebra wandering around keeping the grass short and some duikers too. Plenty of birdlife around here too. The next morning Neil and Paul walked at the mangrove end of the reserve whilst I did the washing.  Then we drove into the small town to check on emails and to do some shopping, the town was quite busy.  The weather was quite cloudy and there were lots of new arrivals on camp, mainly fishermen many of who brought boats with them.  By midmorning the camp looked quite crowded as there were so many arrivals and although the pitches were marked out you can have up to 8 people on each pitch.  So that meant on some of the pitches there were 3 or 4 units and they looked cramped.  Behind our pitch that night there was a group of young people who were very noisy until the early hours of the morning.  As our South African Visa’s ran out on the 27th September we had decided to go back into Swaziland the next day.Our verdict on this camp was that it needed some work doing to it, you had to have both showers running to get hot water and the toilets didn’t flush too good.  It is in a beautiful situation and has a lot going for it with the trails, the beach etc.  But is very popular with people from Jo’burg etc so it does get very busy especially at weekends.  If you like sociable camping then you would probably enjoy this camp.  For us after living in the solitude of the African bush it takes quite a bit of getting used to being next to large numbers of people again.  Each to there own way of life.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/10/1255542143/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/10/1255542143/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/10/1255542143/tpod.html Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:08:05 -0400 South Africa - Kruger National Park

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Kruger National Park South Africa, Limpopo, South Africa

Punda Maria Camp, Kruger National Park, 14th & 15th September 2009From Tuli Safari Lodge it was just a short drive to the border post of Pont Drift. This post is not open all year so you need to check first to see if it is passable as we were to drive across the Limpopo River.  Luckily for us the river was well down even though here too they had had good rains earlier in the year.   First though we had to have our passports stamped by the Botswana Official on their side of the river.  Then it was a short drive across the causeway that had been built, they rebuild it every year, driving through a width of 3 metres approx of the Limpopo before driving up the riverbank into South Africa.  Another border post and another stamp in our passports.  Then it was onto Musina so that we could shop and check the internet for emails.  We were stopped on the way by the traffic police for a routine check and he was a very pleasant policeman who wished us well on our travels.Musina is a large bustling town with plenty of shops and a very good Spar supermarket.  Next to the Spar was an internet café where we were able to quickly check emails, which were in our inboxes, but time and money meant we only replied to those that are necessary and important.  Then onto Kruger National Park, and the road from Musina to the Parfuri Gate, the most northern gate in the park, passes through some really lovely scenery.  We had hoped to fill up with diesel before entering Kruger but there were none on this route at all.    Advice is if you don't have two tanks and two jerry cans like we had then fill up in Musina as we couldn’t fill up again until we arrived at Punda Maria.The two officials at Parfuri Gate were really pleasant and one even cleaned the windscreen whilst Neil and I completed the entrance procedure, we had to pay an entrance fee which covered our entry to the park and that day’s conservation fee.  We had already booked our camping sites, but not the entrance fee and daily conservation fees (conservation fees can be paid daily at each Restcamp or in one lump sum at a Restcamp).  Then it was a beautiful drive through part of the most scenic part of Kruger to Punda Maria camp.  Driving speed is restricted to 50km/hr, and really that is too fast if you want to see lots of different types of game.  On the way to the camp we saw impala, long tailed shrike, elephants, nyala, bushbuck, giraffe, zebra, kudu, tsessebe, and buffalo.  Neil and I hadn’t been this far north in the Park before we were impressed with the scenery and there is little elephant damage to the vegetation here.  It is supposed to be the best part for birds plus roan and sable antelope.Punda Maria Camp turned out to be our favourite camp for the whole of the week we spent in Kruger.  It has a large camping area but there were few campers there.  There are electric points (extra charge), two good ablution blocks, communal kitchen with geyser for boiling water (important for cups of tea), braii’s and a great bird hide overlooking a waterhole.  There is also a well stocked shop, restaurant, payphone and laundry.  Game drives are available and need to be booked.  We spent two nights here and heard lions roaring in the night close to camp, caught in the torchlight’s bush babies in the trees above our tents, and spent a nice afternoon at the hide where we saw kudu, impala, nyala, buffalo, baboons, starlings and two very large bull elephants come down to drink at the waterhole.  After doing a bush fix on the diesel hose, we found it was leaking; we did a lovely drive along the Punda Maria Loop.  This drive was very scenic with varying types of landscapes and vegetation and the result of that meant we saw drongo’s, rollers, pigeons, kudu, nyala, impala, warthog, grey rhebok, francolin’s, elephant and for the first time ever suni antelope.  We were really pleased we had decided on this camp and had a beautiful meal in the restaurant one evening.  This is one Restcamp we could return to, a good start to our week in Kruger.We saw on our way to Punda Maria Restcamp:impala, long tailed shrike, elephant, nyala, bushbuck, giraffe, zebra, kudu, tessebe, buffaloOn the Punda Maria Loop we saw:drongo, roller, nyala, impala, kudu, pigeon, warthog, grey rhebok, francolins, elephant, suni.at the hide at Punda Maria we saw:elephants, kudu, impala, nyala, buffalo, baboons, starlings.at the camp we saw:thick tailed bushbabies, bats and heard lions roaring in the night.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/10/1256828540/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/10/1256828540/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/neilandchris/10/1256828540/tpod.html Thu, 29 Oct 2009 11:04:31 -0400 South Africa - Kruger National Park

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Kruger National Park, Mpumalanga, South Africa

Berg en Daal Restcamp, Kruger, 20th September 2009We were up early and ready to queue at the gate, and yes it was a big queue. We drove towards Lower Sabie Restcamp keeping on the tar road for most of the way.  Paul was beginning to get a bit disappointed as he hadn't seen many big cats in Kruger, then as luck would have it Paul spotted a leopard in a tree quite a distance from the roadside.  We managed to get some quite good photos and video of it as it just lay on the branch.  We waved another couple behind us to slow down and pointed out the leopard to them.  We drove on after a few minutes onto Lower Sabie.  This camp last year we were really impressed with, and it still looks excellent.  We were surprised to see that the viewing area overlooking the river was taped off, no notice explaining why it was off limits.  We walked around the very good shop there, and then showed Paul the section where you can see the photos showing poaching and the effects it has on wildlife, as well as some of the traps that are used.  All very informative and interesting.We drove onto Crocodile Bridge Restcamp and filled up with diesel and then on towards Berg en Daal Restcamp.  Stopping on the way by a very large dam we had lunch and watched zebra, warthogs, and waterbuck coming down for water, whilst fish eagles were flying from tree to tree.  As we drove nearer to Berg en Daal we drove along one of the secondary roads which had lovely views over the countryside, and here we spotted the largest herd of elephants we have seen to date, a very impressive sight.  Plus another first was seeing a black rhino; we have seen white rhino both last year in Kruger and in Swaziland, but never before black rhino.  Berg en Daal Restcamp was very nice and in a lovely picturesque setting.  There is a nice rhino walking trail along the perimeter of the camp, and a good shop.  This camp has won the Kruger Best Restcamp Award for the last 3 years.  The camping area is large but much nicer than Skukuza.  There were good ablution blocks, and laundry and washing up areas.  There is a restaurant, internet café, cafeteria, and an excellent shop.  Within the camping grounds there are some bat boxes and bats were flying around that night.  We also heard hyenas several times throughout the night.  This too like Skukuza is very popular camp for weekenders at it near to one of the main entrance gates and not too far from Nelspruit and other South African towns.This was our last stop in Kruger National Park.  We had really enjoyed our stay here, had seen animals/birds we didn’t see last year.  Our favourite camp was Punda Maria in the north, and the north of Kruger is somewhere we would love to spend more time if we ever return.  There were less tourists, beautiful scenery; the camp was how we like it quiet and well spaced out.  Skukuza we would avoid if at all possible.   Paul was disappointed he didn’t see many big cats, which we were surprised at as well.  We were out early enough in the morning and took our time driving around.  Looking at the camp boards we had noticed that fewer lions and cheetahs had been spotted.On our way fro Skukuza to Berg en Daal we saw:Impala, giraffe, bushbuck, guinea fowl, grey duiker, eagle, baboons, elephants, leopard, vervet monkeys, steenbok, hippos, hyena, fish eagle, warthog, vulture and young in the nest, mongoose, ground hornbills, white rhino, black rhino, buzzard, kudu, squirrels, hobby, zebra and waterbuck.
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Skukuza, Mpumalanga, South Africa

Skukuza Restcamp, Kruger, 19th September 2009We were up at 5am and ready for the gate to open which it did just before 6am. We decided to take the secondary road to Skukuza rather than the tar road.  The weather was still cloudy and cool, but once we got to Orpen Dam the weather had changed and it was sunny and very warm again.  It was very pleasant drive and we didn't see much traffic on these roads.  At Skukuza we had lunch in the café with the bats hanging in the roof of the sitting area.Skukuza Restcamp is the main camp in Kruger and wouldn’t have been our first choice to stay.  Must admit after staying there we would not be in a rush to camp there again, it is not our sort of camp as it it too large and noisy.  We had hoped to stay at Lower Sabie but it had been fully booked up when we booked several months ago. Skukuza has a large camping area and we struggled to find a spot to camp even with a reservation.  There were plenty of caravans pitched and many of them take up loads of space as they have a caravan, awning and perhaps a tent or gazebo, plus vehicle.  Afraid many South Africans take everything with them when they go 'camping’ and so they leave little room for anyone else. There is demarcation of pitches but some people had not kept to the lines.  There are taps, braii’s, laundry facilities, good ablution blocks and communal kitchens with electric hobs and sinks with hot/cold water, and hot water boiler.  Skukuza has 2 restaurants, cafeteria, internet café, ATM, post office, reception, pool, a variety of accommodation and a very large shop.  Plus library and information centre’s, and fuel station.  It was a noisy camp that night, and we could see hyenas along the fence at dusk and even when it was dark, and we heard them whooping just before dawn.In the afternoon we went for another drive along the roads towards Pretoriouskop and on towards the Lower Sabie River.  A really nice drive although the roads do get busier in this part of Kruger and you might meet coaches as well as safari vehicles from outside Kruger, as well as other tourists staying overnight in the Park.  On the drive from Maorola to Skukuza we saw:Impala, wildebeest, eagle, kudu, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, several ground hornbills, common duiker, steenbok, elephants, vervet monkeys, vultures, secretary birds, warthog, dwarf mongoose, baboons, crocodiles, snake eagle, malachite kingfisher, Egyptian geese, grey heron, white rhino, banded mongoose, klipspringers, waterbuck and bushbuck.
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