TravelStream™ news feed for member muddyfeet on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/muddyfeet en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:38:11 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209254580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209254580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209254580/tpod.html Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:38:11 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Cuernavaca, Central Mexico and Gulf Coast, Mexico

Well, here I am doing a fly by night visit through Mexico and thus my first combo entry.  Also, a disclaimer that I have entered the non-spanish keyboard world as I am updating this from the "states" and I don't know how to find the ennye (n with the squiggle on top) or the accents.Cuautla is a bit of a townish city between Oaxaca and Cuernavaca as well as the burial place for Emiliano Zapata, the revolutionary hero during the Mexican Revolution, a major player in gaining independence from the oppressive Mexican regime at the time.  Planning on getting a direct bus there I somehow ended up on a bus to Mexico City instead!!  So, once in Mexico City I headed directly to a bus to Cuautla.  A four hour journey that is usually 2.  Most people are not sure why I went to Cuautla and I can't say I am either except for the apparent hot springs which ended up being a ginormous swimming pool with multiple slides and all.  A sulfurous air hung over the hot spring area with so many people packed in I can't imagine it being the tranquil soothing connotation of "hot springs".  Not to wast my 50pesos ($5USD)  I got myself a lounger and me tome un poco del sol "took some sun" aka sun bathed, took a swim and headed to the Zocalo.  The non stop musical celebration of Cuautla's Zocalo was ten fold in that it is so small that if you stand jusssttt in the right place your ears can have that wonderful sound explosive experience of 4 different types of music hitting them full force at the same time!!!  Move a few steps in any direction and the mood changes to whatever is playing in that direction.  The best thing about the musical Zocalo is it has seemingly random events such as coordinated dances of adolescents and dinner time spontaneous dances of the older folk who mostly reside there.  In the midst of an outdoor eating crowd a song starts and people just get up in mid wine sip or bit of morsel and start an elegantly simple dance.  Seated right back down until the next song and all over again.  Of course the music is mostly live.Cuernavaca was bigger than I expected and the famed spanish student town was short on any gringos at all.  Of course there was the man from Boston who asked me "are the bars the same in Mexico as anywhere else.?" Well, people hang out drink beer and get drunk, yup pretty much the same.  I did ask where the closest pool hall was for him in espanol.  Not knowing the word for pool-hall I made extravagant motions with my hands and arms.  There is a serious pantomime art to communicating in a newly foreign language!  Somehow I got the information.  Cuernavaca is home to several Cortes founded structures.  The larges and most grandeur is the Palacio de Cortes, not being able to remember the name I kept referring to it as "THE FORTRESS" which is exactly what it looked like.  Straight out of Monty Python there it was, castle peaks and all, just waiting for a Cuernavacan revolt.  In front was a Napoleon complex statue of Cortes himself.  I find this all a bit interesting as throughout southern Mexico I continue to find an almost honoring of Cortes, the leader of massacres and Spanish dictatorship throughout Mexico, the continual celebration of the Aztec civilization that he conquered, and the most revolutionary leader who fought for the people's rights in Mexico, so much revered that his followers are the Zapatistas (www.zapatistas.org or www.zapatistarevolution.com ) All of this on the same land in the same nation.  The Zocalo is quite pretty and holds one more statue honoring motherhood that I have found throughout Guatemala and Mexico.  Granted, there are so many trees, which normally would create a peaceful ambiance, that pigeons have taken over from who knows where and I was lucky to find a spot without pigeon poop.  Staying to the fringes of the park one tried to hit me and missed only by inches with me feeling the bit of splatter that made me go Guacala (yuck, gross, creepy) and also thank my poop forcefield for keeping me safe.Most places can be visited in a couple of days and thus that is all one really needs in Cuernavaca. I visited the Catedral de la Asuncion, founded by Cortes in 1529 with a history and structure to match his rule.  I also visited Jardin Borda, a botanical garden of sorts with several fountains and some rather territorial ducks that kept several people heading the opposite direction.  The garden surrounds what was once the former home of several historical figures.  There is a museum where you can see old floors, steps and walls of the house all protected by a tourist plank.  My couchsurfing (couchsurfing.com) experience here was great.  I got to stay outside of the center which means I got to see where people actually live.  The guy I stayed with and his house-mates were all friendly and I practiced my espanol listening skills with non stop, crazy making telenovelas!  I actually found a favorite that I hope they have in the states.  Unlike the 30 plus running soap operas (why are they called soap operas by the way?) telenovelas last for 3 to 6 months at a time and almost match Jerry Springer style of drama.  Much loved, fast talking and repeating themes they are a great learning tool.Feeling as though I have become more of a small town type person I decided to take a break before Mexico City and head to Valle de Bravo.  Mid route I stopped in Toluca, the capital of the state of Mexico, and spent the night in the bus station hotel.  There is something about a comfortable bus with a movie and room to sleep that makes me exhausted after a 2 or 3 hour trip.  The camionetas "chicken buses"  always left me energized and ready for the next adventure after 7 hours and 3 bus changes.  That's right, just push me on an old colorful school bus with some local tunes, bad struts, hurting speeds and barely room to sit and I am as happy as can be.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209949860/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209949860/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209949860/tpod.html Fri, 30 May 2008 17:28:29 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Tucson, Arizona, United States

Wow, how do I even begin the last entry for this trip!??First- this was one of the most amazing experiences of my life. Second- I keep saying things in spanish to people.  Really simple things like gracias, mucho gusto, no gracias, yo quiero, perdon, permiso...It just slips out.  Thirdly- I am sooooo excited to see my cats.  Fourthly (is that even a word)-  I am making constant plans to work on my spanish and telenovelas are still in my life.FIFTHLY- Do not take any or all of my spanish in here to be correct.  I did very little checking on spelling or fully correct meanings.  In addition, I believe with a culture so rich as that of the Mayans that I need to update with the actual names of each group, including those in Mexico.  Indigenous just doesn't cover it and has been used out of simple laziness and, well, those internet cafes add up.  So I will be doing a bit of polishing up over time.The Mayan people (Guatemala): Surrounding Lago Atitlan- Tz'utujil, Kaqchikel Nebaj- Ixil Xela- K'che' Rio Dulce- Q'eqchi Garifuna people: Speak language made up of 5 others Swahili and FrenchThe Mayan people (Mexico): San Cristobal, Chiapas- Tzotzil, Tzeltal Oaxaca- 15 different groups including Zapotec, MixtecMy Quick Bits of AdviceMy favorite things I brought:  Sarong for a towel- convenient, easily packed light weight and dries super fastSteripen - purchasing water for 6 months can get quite expensive, plus polluting with all those plastic bottles and all.What I wish I hadn't broughtMy water bladder (the kind that go in hydration bags) - never used it)Poetry book by Rumi (heavy, bulky - I sold it to get $ for my Mexico book)What I'm glad I didn't bringWarm Clothes - There are an amazing number of used clothing stores.  By your sweater there WASH IT and wear it.  Leave it when you head to warmer placesMore clothes - 2 pants, 1 skirt, 4 under wears, 3 socks, 2 tanks, 2 short sleeve, 2 long sleeves, rain jacket, sneakers, sandals.   I actually would have been fine with 1 pants and 2 socks.  What I wish I broughtGrapefruit Seed Extract - Cures almost anything, great for fighting colds, lasts a whileChoosing a Spanish SchoolWhere do you want to study?  How much do you want or have to spend? What type of Spanish do you want to learn?Do you want to party or be super social and go out to bars with your teachers etc.  or do you want a small school with fewer activities but a more personal atmosphere? Check several websites for reviews and take them all with a grain of salt.  Lonely Planet's Thorntree Forum is helpful,  as well as,   www.123language.com. If you don't like your school, change it.If you don't like your teacher change him or herIf you don't like your host family change themAt least in Guatemala you do not need to pay the frequently requested on-line registration fee.  You can just walk into the school and sign up when you get there.Always try to remember that you are having an experienceTake breaks.  Do not study for 12 weeks in a row.  Not good for your brain or soul,  from personal experience I can guarantee that.VolunteeringMost schools only have one or two volunteer hook ups.  Expect to find your own.  If you are at a lower level of spanish consider whether this will help or hinder you learning. Or, perhaps, add to your experience either way.I found that volunteering did not help me with the language and, in fact, took away much needed time to study.  However, my main goal was to learn the language.  For others volunteering may be an essential part of their experience.In Xela, Guatemala check out EntreMundo for volunteer opportunitiesPreparing for HomeExpect some culture shock returning home, especially after an extended time in a developing nation.  May not happen but, for me, has felt a bit weird.  Good but weird.  I want to find a market, the supermarkets are big, bright, cold and overwhelming.  Just give me a lil market outdoors that sells all I need.Stay in contact with those you met along the way.I was, and am still, terrified about loosing my spanish.  This is what I am trying to do...Find volunteer work to use my spanishFind someone who wants to learn or improve their english and do a free language exchange.  Find work that will use my skills.  My only problem right now is I have a hard time understanding people at regular speed talking to each other.  Kind of puts a damper on the job part.  Give me 6 more months though.If traveling is your thing just make it part of your thing, find deals, go wherever the cheapest ticket takes you, try not to fall back into the old.These are the things I am telling myself as I readjust to the states.  Day four is going quite well.  I'm finishing my blog except I have loads of pics to add, that will be the true last of this trip.  Yesterday my friend pulled my cat off her dogs face (no exaggeration here) so now we have complete and careful segregation in the house.  Love my cats (even the one who bit my friend in complete terror and left 3 claws in a big baby of a dog face) and after 180 days am just as glad to see them as I was to head out to Guatemala 6 months ago.Believe me though, this is hardly the end of my travels.  Wait for the next episode:)
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209942240/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209942240/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209942240/tpod.html Fri, 30 May 2008 17:11:14 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Mexico City, Central Mexico and Gulf Coast, Mexico

Dios Mio!!!!  Anyone that says Mexico City is not worth visiting, get in and out, no need for more than a few days, surely did not spend time truly getting to know this city.  Mexico City is full of art and culture.  There are museums everywhere, art and music is its heart and Lucha Libres is its fun crazy laughing soul.In two weeks, taking a day or two to relax, I went to multiple museums and cultural venues and still feel there is so much more I would like to see.  If you like Prada and such you are in luck here.  If you like piratedCDs and DVDs you are also in luck.  People walk up and down the subwaycars trying to sell candies, pens, CDs and DVDs, they even have a finespeaker system and lil tvs to advertise the CDs and DVDs, always10pesos.  Sorry, no Prada on the subways.The Metro system, by the way, is the same one as in Atlanta, GA and other worldwidecities.  Completely infuriating during rush hour, it is otherwise quiteconvenient and only 2P which is about 20 cents (there are roughly 10pesos to 1 US dollar).The Zocalo is always going, there are always events of one type oranother.  Earth Day is not just a day but an almost week long event,including traditional Aztec dances, information on composting,reforestation and animal rights.  Actually, the Aztec dances could beseen about every evening with folk selling jewelery.  Of course thereis the magnificent Catedral which is the larges in Latin America.  Withmany masses a day it was difficult to find a respectable time to enterbut I succeeded and took some great pics.Multiple parks both in and around the central city and each one withits own market and minnie festivals, churches mixed with fabulous musicand scrumptious nieve and other foods.  It seems that wherever you walk,wherever you go there is a life sized sculpture and outdoor artexhibits.  You just can't avoid them!There was an international traveling exhibition, Ashes and Snow, which was incredible.  Starting in 2002 it continues to visit cities throughout the world and Mexico City blessed me with this experience.  Also this fabulous orchestra from somewhere (will have to add it later) the performed which was amazing!!  The Bellas Artes theater is incredible and I went on a free tour to seethe Tiffany built glass curtain in the theater.  I tried to get somepicks but really hard to capture.  You'll just have to go and see ityourself.  The Government  building which name I have forgotten is full of Diego Rivera murals as well.  TheFrida Khalo museum is in what was once her and Diego's home.  In it onewill see everything from scribbles on bits of paper, letters betweenFrida, Diego and others.  Mostly personal, some political andtranslated into English.  The art not only includes the one of a kind,unique art of Frida that we've all seen but also some pieces neverseen before.  Some of her clothes, including the orthopedic girdle sheneeded to wear are on display.  Many photographs of Frida, Diego andsome friends.  Being in this house, walking around it what feels likesomeones personal space I gained a much stronger sense of one of themost revered women artists in our time. I went to anInternational Dance Festival with a few people, where I saw regionallytraditional Mexican dances, Arabian dances and Flamenco.One of my favorite things about Mexico City were the people.  Once you got the city out of people (you know the rushed gotta get there don't know where but gotta get there) they were very friendly, willing to speak spanish to you and everyone had their own style.  The youth have the punk rock and/or emo styles dowwwnnn.  All types, all ages come to join at the same events.  It has also become a leading capital in legalizing same-sex civil unions.  In the midsts of a strongly catholic nation Mexico City is far ahead of many other cities throughout the world in terms of "religiously controlled" rights or lack there of.  In addition, abortion has also been legalized within the first 3 months.The men, in spite of an infamous "machismo" reputation (personally I think this is a fancy name for sexist and/or macho guys which are everywhere) men carry their novia's (girlfriend's) or esposa's (wife's) purses, hijas (daughters) pink sparkly backpacks, push the strollers and carry babies in pink slings. Not to say that all is equal, far from it.  Every street corner has a magazine stall with porn galore mixed in with typical magazines.  No hiding it, your three year old will see some reality suspended naked women.  I also had my ass grabbed in a crowded store, if I was in the states I would have said something to the guy kind of like "when you disrespect one woman you disrespect all and that includes your mom, sister, cousin, grandma, aunt and even the beloved, otherworldly Virgin de Guadeloupe" but I was not and thus I said nothing but gave him an evil stare and kept closer watch on my buttocks!  My couchsurfing guy was fabulous as was his father, uncle, and friends.  I got to practice my spanish a bit, he provided me with some food, invited me out with his friends reignited my commitment to animal liberation and organized a Lucha Libre night on my last night!The city itself is built over ruins of Cortes time which is built on ruins of Aztec times which means both have been and continue to be found and excavated.  Most interesting to me is that the types of buildings seem to match.  Church over church, government building over government building.    You can see some ruins under the Catedral and near the Zocalo at anytime.On my last night I went to a Lucha Libre.  These are the wresting matches between the guys with those fancy masks on.  Fabulous, filled with people, changing famous names  "fatasmo" "mistico"  or "MI STI CO"  He's my favorite 'cause he wears pink and he has a little baby with a tiny pink Luchador outfit.  Plus he won:) If I lived in Mexico City I think Lucha Libres would be a monthly if not weekly ritual!Yes there is crime, yes there is smog http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smog, yes there are those neighborhoods you want to avoid but that is true in Boston, NYC, LA etc. as well.  Mexico City is Art is Culture is Mexico City.  Any visit to Mexico would be lacking without some time in one of the most incredible cities in the Western Hemisphere.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209257160/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209257160/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1209257160/tpod.html Thu, 29 May 2008 18:06:03 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Valle de Bravo, Mexico

Valle de Bravo, which I continue to insist on calling Valle de Barco for some reason, is a subtle, quiet town surrounded by wealthy Mexicans and Expats.  Huge houses around a lake interspersed with a couple of waterfalls and a beautiful downtown.  Once you get yourself downtown, Valle de Bravo is actually not very expensive.  It is one of those places though where spanish speaking folk would just rather you speak english to them.  I stayed at Posada 16 de Septiembre, a Guatemalan style open air hotel combined with the house of the owners.   It was quite lovely and the people who owned it were very friendly.  Indigenous culture prevailed and I was as happy as a pea.  By far the best part of Valle de Bravo is its waterfall "something de Novia".  This is the most tranquil place I visited in quite sometime.  Not too many people but clearly cared for, I sat on a rock only feet from the waterfall.  I just sat and sat and well, for the first time in a bit, I stopped moving, stopped racing from one place to the next, stopped worrying about my spanish knowledge etc. etc.  All falls into place and perspective at a waterfall and peacefulness and wonder of being in Mexico prevailed.  Also, this is where I learned that I was in the midst of make out point, except for erase that image of hormone crazed teenagers and replace it with hormone crazed adults.  Yep, all over the place, waterfalls, subways, hidden street corners...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206916020/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206916020/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206916020/tpod.html Thu, 29 May 2008 17:41:16 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Oaxaca, Mexico

OK, first, the doctors in Oaxaca tried to kill me with Flagyl.  They had me on that and another strong antibiotic.  I got all crazy sweaty, vertigo, shaky, nauseated etc etc.  I got off the meds and, guess what, feel much better.  Between another bout of amoebas and evil meds I only had a few days to get to know Oaxaca.  I had my first couchsurfing experience which went fairly well.  The guy gave me his bed to sleep in while he slept on a hard bed frame in another room.  Only problem was on my last night he kept trying to hold my hand and touch me, not aggressively or anything, just kind of weird since I had stayed there for 8 nights.  I am currently in my second place though and have had no such problems.Oaxaca has a fabulous zocalo where a brass band plays almost every night.  It is also where it became clear to me that almost everyday in México, or at least where I have been, is treated like a festival with all sorts of crazy balloons for sale, cotton candy, music etc.  There is also great food.  Oaxaca is known for its quesilla, a stringy type mozzarella and, no, it is nothing like that found in 7-11s.  This stuff is goooood and served in all sorts of manners.  I also started to eat some spicier food, as in food with any spice to it, all to the demise of my frustratingly sensitive stomach.  I did find a restaurant serving comida tipica vegetarian style.  Comida tipica is basically a 3-4 course meal at highly reasonable rates sold mostly around lunch time but also breakfast and dinner in some places.  For all those vegetarians head to Flor de Loto near the zocalo, otherwise I have found it more expensive to eat as a vegetarian because most deal meals have lots of meat in all sorts of spanish names.The Basílica de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad is an incredible cathedral.  Outside they were selling "nieve" (sort of like a snow cone) in various flavors to include one called "tuna" which is actually from the nopal cactus aka prickly pear.  Oh my god, crimson and delicious and a Nuestra Señora!  What else could you possibly ask for?!!  All guides say not to eat this stuff but after being sick so often and only eating what I was "supposed to" I´ve entered some phase of ultra paranoia and complete apathy.  It was good prickly pear nieva!! (nieva is snow en español)The artists market is a great place to find some wonderful textiles.  I am at the point now though that I only want to go to such places if I am ready to buy at that moment.  There are very good sales people working at all markets.  They make car sales folk look like nothing (as a past car sales woman (???yes weird 6 months) I can personally vouch for this).On my last day I got stung by a bee hanging out on my neck.  I didn´t know he was there and he didn´t know what my sweeping hand was and thus we joined.  Pulled about all of him out of my finger.  Mostly I felt bad for the bee but this very nice man looked all over his store for tweezers where I pulled the rest of it out wondering "do I have the same allergy as my mother".  Luckily no.  Off to Cuautla for my next stop.  Still can´t understand much spanish but I did learn that mantaquilla de mani (peanut butter in Guatemala) is completely unheard of.  Mantaquilla de cacahuate (peanut butter in México) however is.  Also, ya,ya,ya is used frequently.  Meaning "already" I couldn´t figure it out but then learned that it also means "enough" or something like "ya, ok I get it".
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206822240/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206822240/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206822240/tpod.html Thu, 29 May 2008 17:23:06 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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San Cristobal, Mexico

San Cristobal is a precious little town with a spill over of indigenous cultures.  The zocalo (ie.parque central) is adorable and there are pedestrianized streets for shopping, eating and such.  The influence of the Zapatistas is quite apparent.   I found a restaurant and artists collective type thing where the money goes to the Zapatista community.  There are also little cloth zapatistas on earrings, which I think is weird, but I got a key chain anyway so I would remember what I want to do in the future (human rights observer- one of several ideas).  I stayed at the Backpacker´s Hostel for 100Pesos/night (10USD).  There are a bunch of hostels all around 80 to 100 pesos.  Food is more expensive than in Guatemala and Méxican food was hard to find.  However, I did have a very non-mexican but fabulous melted cheese and veggie sandwich at a place called Bar Revolución.  Feeling a bit of traveler´s burnout I didn´t do any of the tourist visit village stuff or museums or anything.  The cathedrals are impossible to avoid.The sunsets are spectacular in San Cristobal and there is still a strong indigenous influence.  However, the difference of rich and poor becomes clearer with a big shining Burger King, many tourists from all over including other parts of México and indigenous folk trying to sell their wares on the streets.  I felt that discomfort of economic disparity thrown in front of your face for the first time in a while.  I tried to give an old man some coins but within seconds I was surrounded by at least 4 other people, children, etc.  I zipped up my bolsa (bag) and haven´t given any since.  Did give a peach at one point.  If you are in the giving mood best not do it in crowded areas, like a market for example! Apparently San Cristobal is the amber central of México and, thus, has some amazing amber.  There is a museum and slews of shops selling it.  I found the museum shop helpful in finding out what stores are "authentic".  I also found the stores AWAY from the super touristy areas to be less expensive.  Beautiful days and VERY cold nights.  This is where I officially became tired of the cold, even under 3 blankets (one of which I snagged from another unused dorm bed).  I also could not find out about second class buses to Oaxaca.  Everyone just kept telling me I had to take the first class buses, even the second class bus people.  This cost me about $40 USD!!!  Thus, the bus system is not nearly as convenient or cheap or exciting as that in Guatemala.  I kind of think I didn´t explain well that I didn´t need to go directly to Oaxaca, just in that direction.  Also, the only buses leaving towards Oaxaca leave around 6 or 10 pm.  So, if going that way get ready for a long overnight 12 hour journey where your neighbor will change time to time at other bus stops and you can watch the BRATZ movie and endless reruns of  unitedstaten tv shows!!!  Thankfully all dubbed.All in all I am very excited to be in México.  Spanish is different here in that there are different dialects and it is a little faster than in Guatemala.  My biggest challenge has been the menus.  Types of meals I have never heard of, and when I ask what it is I can´t understand a thing the waiter says.  Ahhhh, the life of learning a language at 35!!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1211591400/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1211591400/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1211591400/tpod.html Thu, 29 May 2008 16:57:40 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

Something about the history of old, new, and tomorrow all combined together. Each door leads to a weaved history of people's lives. An elderly woman approached me one day and told me how her grandmother used to live behind one of these doors many many years before. She gave me a hug and a kiss on the cheek and thanked me for taking the pictures.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206818280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206818280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206818280/tpod.html Thu, 29 May 2008 16:56:24 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

Ahhh, the city with two names that has consistently evaded my friends and family.  Thus here is the jist:Quetzaltenango is the Spanish conquistador name for the city however, Xela (sheyla) is the Mayan name coming from Xelaju (sheylawho).  Thus, for the ease of all people the city is widely known as Xela.Xela has the usual full speed ahead road rules just with a lot of cars on somewhat narrow streets combined with sidewalks maybe wide enough for one person.  There seems to be an unspoken right of way which includes excessive honking as one approaches an intersection at a rapid speed to let others know that you will be barreling through.  Along with the fast mobile movement of the cars is the fast mobile movement of the people scurrying across the street to avoid getting hit by a car, bus, motorcycle, moped or bicycle.  Somehow the city still maintains a somewhat lackadaisical feel of other smaller pueblos in Guatemala.Again, the sidewalks of Xela are particularly narrow.  However, they are also built at seemingly random heights and widths.  This was a complete mystery to me for quite some time and one I had to finally accept or I was in danger of falling on my face.  Adding to the mixture of cars, sidewalks and such are a few very small bridges that cover very narrow roads and are barely tall enough for all those camionnetas to get through.  Of course, that does not stop the camionnetas, they just scrape the top of the bus and keep on going.  As part of a school trip, I went on one of those city tours and eventually learned that Xela used to be a big lake, eventually rivers and now only during the rainy season.  Thus, the sidewalk mystery is a result of the varying degrees of flooding that happens during the rainy season.  Some people even build cement boundaries between their doors and the sidewalk.  Still don`t really get the bridge thing seeing that the rivers are long gone.Xela is full of colorful buildings, historically old doors, frequent celebrations and is fully committed to Semana Santa.  I also learned that Christmas, also worthy of a fiesta, does not really start until midnight on Christmas Eve.  The story goes that this is when it is believed that Christ was born.  It is at this time that much food, drink, gifts, and family are celebrated until 4am or so.  The next day is quite subdued as all are sleeping, oh, except at about noon all those firecrackers that were not used the day before are thrown out of doors and set off.  So, try to avoid being blown up around noon on Christmas day.  Have I mentioned the sheer importance of firecrackers for everything.Almost everyone was quite friendly to me.  Frequently when I initiated a "buenos dias" "buenas noches"etc. I was greated with a huge smile.  There is a much greater integration of Mayan people and ladinos here than I´ve seen elsewhere, not to say there isn`t segregation and discrimination.  Feeling it is worth acknowledging I have a whole entry donated to such issues.Xela is not a terribly dangerous city in general, however, after doing it twice myself, I would not walk home alone after 10pm or so.  This goes for men and women.  Being a foreigner just makes you a target.  It sucks but it is the way it is if you´re going to be visiting developing nations.  Granted I also heard stories of people trying to cheat foreigners out of money.  Different reasons though.  And what sucks even more is the double wammy for foreign women.  In a nation that is fully part of the occurrence of international femicide, where 3,000 women were murdered last year with 1 maybe two men put to jail, it is just not the place to test your safety as a woman.  And any one who tells you that you are safe because you are foreigner has no clue as to the depths and seriousness of this problem.  The only difference is that the government may do more to recognize if a foreign women has been harmed, which, in itself is messed up that no attention is given to women from Guatemala.  However, there are some fabulously powerful women´s groups fighting for women´s rights and recognition of such violence in Guatemala.  There was a presentation of Monologues Vaginas in español and I read these statistics in a variety of places including the major paper for Guatemala.  So something is shifting and changing just in which way it is unclear, I say this for the whole world, including the United States in terms of violence against women.Moving on from the scary, Xela grew on me.  I found it to be a friendly city with many interesting cultures and people.  I loved my school, Educación Para Todos, and highly recommend it to anyone with a serious interest in learning spanish.  I especially liked my teachers Helen, Oscar and Mario.  I also loved the doors.Xela is where I braved a host family for the second time.  My first family was the sister of one of the directors and has appropriately active children.  My second family I was with for much longer.  Flor, la madre, works for her family all day, she is the queen of her household.  She makes a true effort at making students feel at home and her whole family will take time to practice spanish with you.  In general, home-stays are not a perfect match at all times.  Most families are stressed for money and, if not, you may find it is assumed you have a lot of money.  Some places give people too much food and others not enough.  Some places look at you and decide how much food you need.  Thus, being the thin person I am, it was often thought that I didn´t need to eat much.  Trying to explain the high metabolism thing just seemed too difficult so I ate a lot of bread and 3 for 10Q tacos, still a good experience though.In addition there are many surrounding Mayan villages, each with its own culture and flair.  There are continuous markets, I now know what dead animal smells like at least 10 stalls ahead of time, and lots of outdoor activities, volcanoes and such to climb.I met many interesting people and made some great friends in Xela.  I am writing this after several weeks into México and feel as though a bit of Xela will always be with me.  When I need to master the subjuntivo I will return!!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206495900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206495900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1206495900/tpod.html Fri, 23 May 2008 21:59:34 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Tikal National Park, Guatemala

So here are the pics.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1200868020/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1200868020/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/muddyfeet/espanoltravels/1200868020/tpod.html Thu, 22 May 2008 18:16:01 -0400 Central America and Mexico: Why I Left My Cats for 180 Days

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Quetzaltenango, Guatemala, Guatemala

I met these four my last week in San Pedro.  Playing with my camera, checking my photos in public, all the things you are supposedly not supposed to do with your camera in Central America (in reality it really depends on the place within a place, within a place that you are) and this little girl walks past me several times.  By the 5th, 6th, 7th time she is giggling in that way only children can do and skipping past me with her pink basket in hand.  Saying hello, she comes running up to me, sister in tow, and asks if she can take some pictures.  More of an order than a question, she whisks the camera out of my hands.  I had a moment of "what if she runs away with it, or breaks it".  And then I thought "big deal" ´cause I liked her. Plus, most children are excited by a new game and not mischievously planning a theft regardless of where you are. (Not to discount the skills of those with the five finger discount of survival). After taking turns with my camera they invite their two friends who are not as sure about this game. I immediately forgot all their names but Tina, the sister of  "Pink Basket".  My last night in San Pedro I printed photos for them and found them hanging out where they initially found me.  I told them I had something for them and immediately, like the jumping beans that only children can be, they started yelling "fotos, fotos, fotos".  Intuitive little buggers.  They were most pleased and so was I.
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