TravelStream™ news feed for member moretojr on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/moretojr en-us Copyright ©2010 TravelPod.com Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:35:19 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1218468840/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1218468840/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1218468840/tpod.html Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:35:19 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Machu Picchu, Sacred Valley, Peru

I have been worried about the Inca Trail since we booked this trip. Worried about the altitude, worried about my fitness levels (especially as I did no preparation... except maybe lying on a beach in Brazil or the Cook Islands), worried about how I'd cope with it being so soon after the anniversary of Chris' death. I was also incredibly excited to have the opportunity to complete it. The famous trail, one of the best and most challenging hikes in the world, hiking for about 8 hours a day, for 4 days, climbing to 4200m, culminating in 3000 steps downhill then a climb up to Machu Picchu with many up and downhill jaunts in between. It's not for the fainthearted.

It was an incredible journey, beginning at 6am with a bus ride to kilometer 82, the start of the trail. Our guide, Washington, was very knowledgeable after having completed the Inca Trail over 400 times. This gave us confidence. It was swelteringly hot, so we set off caked in suncream, stripped down to shorts, t-shirts and caps. The first day was relatively easy, there were some short climbs but overall we only climbed about 400m. It was a good introduction though, we passed some ruins, and got used to the weight of our daypacks. The rest of our equipment was carried by the porters, who are, without doubt, awesome (an Aussie term I've picked up). They hike the Inca trail about six times a month, each time carrying over 20kg. They are also required to be at camp before the group, even though they leave later, to prepare and dismantle the camp every day. This means they practically run the entire trail.... While carrying over 20kg... at an altitude of over 4000m. Crikey. They were all incredibly friendly, cheery and hospitable, they remembered all of our names (we failed miserably at remembering theirs, although there were 23 of them!), they even completed the hike wearing just sandals and walking permanently at 45 degree angle to the ground. Apparently they can only take on the job for one year in three, for a maximum of 15 years. Their bodies physically cannot take any more. It is an incredible feat, bordering on exploitation and human suffering. In this area most of the porters are farmers, and this is the best way for them to earn some extra money. Every day they had camp set up ready for us and provided amazing meals. They were truly super-human.

After camp the first night (at 3,000m) we woke at 630am to have breakfast and set off for the toughest day of the hike. The second day climbs up to 4,200m to the Dead Woman's Pass and we left early to try to make the majority of the climb without the sun blazing down on us. The early morning section was very tough, it was still below freezing, and we mistakenly thought the hike would keep us warm so we weren't wearing enough layers (the rest of our clothing was being carried by the porters). We climbed about 700m consisting of just steep, uneven stairs, where stopping for a break was difficult because of the cold, and the group naturally split into those finding the climb easier, and those struggling either with the weather, the altitude or the climb itself. Unable to handle the cold any longer three of us set off first to complete the last 500m to the Dead Woman's Pass. We immediately hit the sunshine and faced a totally different problem! Another quick stop to apply the suncream, put hats on etc, then moving off upwards... and upwards... and upwards. We concentrated hard on the climb, despite the difficulty in breathing (my asthma didn't help, although the inhaler came in handy for a few other people). We managed the last 500m climb by focusing on 'reaching that rock' or 'making it to that corner'. We told jokes, we concentrated on the breathtaking views, occasionally stopping to take a picture (an excuse to catch our breath). We made it. In total the 1200m climb had taken us about three hours, and at no point did I think I couldn't do it, nor did I want to turn back. Not once. Apparently it usually takes about four hours, so we were incredibly proud of ourselves. The exhilaration at reaching the top (and the exhaustion) was overwhelming. We sat for over an hour as the others reached us with the comments ranging from 'that was more difficult than giving birth...' to 'water....water...water'. Some had needed oxygen on the way up, but still made it to the top. The sense of achievement was palpable. We were so exhilarated that even the thought of the 600m descent down steep uneven stairs didn't deter us, we set off leaping about like spring lambs.. for about 10m when we became much more subdued, the adrenalin and exhilaration dissipated to be replaced with muscle spasm and pain. It was the general consensus that going downhill was much harder than going uphill (I never thought I'd say that... but it may have escaped my lips). Our legs began shaking with the impact and strain of the thousands of steps after such a tough incline that morning. Despite the difficulties though, we arrived at our camp for the night at 1130am. Over lunch we discussed the relative merits of staying where we were (we could lie in the sun all afternoon...) versus pushing on over the next peak (a further 4hrs walking) and reaching the next campsite (less crowded, and an easier third day). Eventually the decision was made for us when the toilets became blocked. There was only one toilet for the entire camp. Armed with our new information, and with full stomachs after another fantastic lunch prepared by our porters, we broke the bad news to them that we had decided to push on. They dutifully packed up all the gear, scowling only slightly, and came with us. And yes, we did feel guilty... but you'll see that it all turned out in the end.

After lunch we set off on another 600m climb. Personally, I found this tougher than the morning climb to Dead Woman's Pass. My legs were tired, the sun was blazing down, our lungs were gasping at the thin air at altitude. Seeing the never-ending set of stairs up to the second peak was pretty soul destroying. Although we did gain a little amusement at watching everyone else turn the corner and seeing their faces drop like ours did (maybe a little harsh, but it made us feel better and at this point there wasn't much that did). We eventually made it. The view was incredible, the cramping in our legs? Pretty unbearable! Following a short rest, we began our 650m descent to our camp. We had to take this easy, given how tired our muscles were, the uneven and sometimes wet, stairs could have easily caused an accident. About ¾ of the way down, Washington made us detour to another ruin... up another 100 steps. Now 100 steps may not seem too many, but after climbing a total of 1800m and descending almost 1200m, we weren't too keen. But we were polite so we all did it (amidst moaning and whinging just a little...). It was worth it. The sight of the ruin, with the snowcapped peaks of the Andes in the distance made all the pain disappear (for a second or two...).
We made it to camp that night at about 1630pm. The sun was beginning to set and it was quickly getting cold. The shorts and t-shirts were replaced by thermals, hat, scarf, gloves and as many layers as possible. The temperature dropped to -12 that night. I slept in two pairs of thermals, hat scarf, gloves and two pairs of alpaca socks (socks made from alpaca wool, not socks for alpacas). One vivid memory will always be staring into the night sky, at 3600m high in the Andes. The sky was domed above us, surrounding us completely as if we were wrapped in a starry blanket. We could vividly see the brightness of the Southern Cross, the gassiness of the Milky Way, we spotted shooting stars and satellites. In the words of Brandon Flowers (The Killers) "the stars shone like rebel diamonds cut out of the sun". They did. And it's something I'll remember forever.... That and the cold.

The third day was easy in comparison to the second, despite the 3000 step descent down to Winaywayna. The third peak was only 300m up, so we appreciated the gentle ascent and took some great pictures. We stopped by three more ruins and the hellish 3000 steps took us to our last camp.. which we reached at 1130am again! We took a break and decided to push on to complete the trek in three days instead of the four. This not only gave us the opportunity to see Machu Picchu twice, but it also allowed the porters to go home a night early, back to their families (you see, I told you it all worked out in the end). The final climb up to the Sungate was very tough. Some steps were so steep you had to climb them on all fours. Had we stayed the final night on the trail, we would have had to complete this section by torchlight, in order to get to Machu Picchu by sunrise. It was precarious enough by daylight, so we were all glad we made the decision that we did. We reached the Sungate with heavy legs and tired calves. We were mentally and physically exhausted. However, we were bowled over by our first view of Machu Picchu, through the Sungate, in the afternoon sunshine. It was here that our achievement finally hit us. We'd made it. Personally, I had surpassed all of my expectations by even getting this far, and I'd enjoyed every moment, despite the pain barrier becoming a close personal friend. Chris would have been very proud I'm sure. We could see the alignment of Waynapicchu, Machu Picchu and the Southern glacier, framed by Mount Veronica as we walked down from the Sungate to Machu Picchu. There we sat marveling at its grandeur for about two hours (we may also have been taking a well deserved rest). We then descended down to Aguas Calientes (by bus - pure bliss) to surprise the rest of the group who weren't expecting us until the following morning. After a night of celebration (one of the most hilarious nights of the trip, fuelled by our adrenaline and sense of achievement no doubt), we woke early to make it to Machu Picchu again for sunrise.

The Incas believed in the sun, the stars, the moon and the mountains, and this is reflected in how they built their temples and residences. The Spanish invasion here was catastrophic, the only temple and residence that survived intact was Machu Picchu, because the Spanish never found it. The Inca king at the time misled the Spanish by not taking the Inca Trail, but instead taking a longer route through the Cloud Forest. It is in this forest that the Spanish stayed for over 40 years. It is claimed that 35% of Machu Picchu is still under the forest floor, yet to be excavated. The Incans believed in 'hard work'. This is painfully obvious here. The care taken in the construction, the size of the stones used, the craftsmanship in the stonework, the rows upon rows of agricultural land... incredible. However, many of the treasures here have been stolen over the years, most of which have been taken out of Peru, which is, understandably, a sore point for many Peruvians. Even mummified remains are now in museums in America, courtesy of Bingham (who first 'officially' discovered Machu Picchu, although it is thought that many Peruvians had discovered it first but kept its identity secret in order to protect it, and probably to take some of the treasures for themselves). Our visit here is something that will stay with us forever, of that I have no doubt. It truly is an incredible place.

Following our sunrise trip to Machu Picchu, we returned to Cusco that day, on the most bizarre train journey I have ever experienced. I was slightly tired so fell asleep on the train, only to be woken by a man in a Diablo mask, holding a furry llama to my face, saying 'prrrrrrrrr' like a cat.
Yes, I thought it was strange too.
90's 'rave' music was blaring away... then people started emerging from the toilets in alpaca clothing. The fashion show had commenced. Stranger and stranger. The train then broke down so we were stuck on the train with the fake llama, the man in the diablo mask and three fashion models in alpaca clothing for two hours. It was a weird, but altogether Peruvian, end to an incredible journey. An unforgettable journey. A journey that I am so proud of. In fact, once my legs have recovered... I might even consider doing it again...



]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1214318820/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1214318820/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1214318820/tpod.html Mon, 11 Aug 2008 11:33:00 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Cusco, Peru

It was with trepidation that we landed in Peru. This was to be the continuation of our tour from the Galapagos, and it was with GAP. So you can imagine that our expectations were low. However, Peru blew our minds (and our GAP rep was incredible, funny and knowledgeable - particularly regarding where to get the best Pisco sours -) so we had a blast. Our group was also very well matched and we made some great friends among the Brits, Canadians, Australians and Irish (hello all!). We squashed so much into three weeks, this blog is going to be difficult to write, I'm sure I'll miss out something important. Just know that it was amazing!

Peru was a bit of an unknown quantity to us before we visited. We were looking forward to the Inca Trail, but that's where our knowledge ended. Maybe this was why we fell it love with the country so much; both expectations and knowledge were practically zero. But wow did this country impress. The natural beauty of Peru is outstanding, it doesn't just take your breath away, it steals it from your lungs, locks it in a cupboard and throws away the key. Many bus rides were spent just staring out of the window, around every corner there was an amazing view to admire, or an unspoilt countryside to draw breath at.

Towns and cities

Our first visit was to Pisco, a town ravaged by an earthquake last August. Now almost 70% of the town is rubble and large open spaces where hundreds of people would have lived and worked. Work is ongoing here to restore the town, without any government intervention or help. Needless to say progress is slow, but during our stay here we didn't see workers stop for a second. We left Pisco, a town destroyed by nature, for Nazca, a desert like place where the people have learnt to live with an extreme form of nature. It hasn't rained here for the past 10 years. We visited a local necropolis (yes, dead people) and where they make local (and often very rude) pottery, before taking a flight over the Nazca lines. These are lines created by the alignment of tiny stones in the desert (a testament to the amount of rain here, these lines were discovered tens of years ago and they've never been washed away). They have been here for many years and no-one knows why they are there. The favoured explanation around here is an astrological calendar, but many theories around aliens and agriculture remain. The plane ride over the lines was an experience in itself. The last time Moi and I had been in a plane this small we jumped out of it!. We managed to rein ourselves in though and stayed in our seats, although the contents of our stomachs seemed to want to jump out a few times. The plane ride was very bumpy and turbulent, the pilot kept spinning us around to see the 'Spider' or the 'Astronaut'. It was an incredible view, and a memorable experience but I'd advise travel sickness pills beforehand (a couple of our group were ill) and also to pay more to go with a reputable company. There have been many accidents (which is unsurprising given the youthful exuberance of some pilots).

Our next stop was Arequipa, the white city (built from white volcanic stone), following on from a night bus ride. Moi and I did our usual tourist activity of 'open top bus ride' and gained a bit of history about the city. We also saw the Inca rows (rows of agricultural land, built in steps to allow farming on very sloped land), visited a mini-zoo with alpacas, llamas and vicunas, saw the volcanos, had a few pisco sours... then left for Colca Canyon. Not many of you may know this but Colca Canyon is the deepest canyon in the world. It is also home to the Indian Condor, the largest bird in the world with a wingspan of over 3m. We watched these majestic birds fly over us for about 2 hours, an unforgettable sight. Given that Colca is such a deep canyon, we had been climbing in altitude steadily throughout our trip. We stopped at 4912m for a 'photo opportunity' which was quite bizarre. Most of the group were quite breathless, headachy, dizzy, even sick. We were given the opportunity to drink Coca tea and purchase coca leaves and sweets. These are a natural remedy against altitude sickness, produced in the highlands here. They also gave you quite an energy boost, unsurprising given that they are the same derivative as cocaine. You can chew the leaves, stick them to your temples (!!), put them in hot water, whatever you fancy really. And it works. Who'd have thought hey? We continued to stay at altitude when we traveled to Puno and Lake Titicaca. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world and lies half in Bolivia and half in Peru. The islands on the lake are inhabited by locals of closer Incan descent than the mainlanders. These people live either to their own rules with no police or law defenders. They vote their own people into positions of authority and their position in society is determined by the colour of the hat that they wear. The men all wear belts interwoven with the hair of their wives and marriage is only undertaken after two years of living together to check the compatibility of the couple. A house can be built in the island in 10 hours (everyone helps out; hundreds of people) and the 'family' feel is incredibly strong. It is a culture that is both modern and traditional and works incredibly well for these islands. We were lucky enough to encounter the culture first hand during our homestay too. We stayed one night with a local family on Amantani island, eating with them in their kitchen, playing football against them (at 3800m, do you have any idea how exhausting that is?!), dressing up in traditional dress and dancing the night away. Our family of Maria, Lucia and Marcelino were so incredibly accommodating, especially in their attempts at deciphering my pigeon Spanish. We felt very welcome and had a wonderful stay. There are also reed islands on Lake Titicaca (yes... islands... made from reeds.) They even snack on the reeds when they get a bit peckish, which we participated in, until we realized that these reeds grow on the lake, which the islanders also use as their toilet...
The islands last about 50 years, then they rot and have to be replaced. Sometimes the reed anchors break too and high winds carry them across the lake. You could go o sleep in Peru and wake up in Bolivia... truly a cheap way to travel. A very bizarre way of life but one that works well for these people.

We left Lake Titicaca for Cusco, the oldest city in South America (more than 3000yrs old), and the one that was at the centre of the Incan empire. Cusco (which means puppy dog in Spanish, an attempt by the Spanish invaders to belittle the Incan empire) impressed us all. A beautiful city with plenty to keep us occupied and the best café in Peru (Jacks). Being here was all about preparation for and recovery from the Inca Trail really, we had 2 spare days, one before the trek, and one afterwards. More about the Inca Trail in the next blog. We could have spent many more days here either laying about in the mountains that surround the city, being cultural in the city or at the local inca ruins, or buying traditional souvenirs in the local markets.

Activity and adventure!

Despite all our city vists, and all they offered, Peru offers so much more. We had so much fun participating in the many activities here. Firstly there was the sandboarding and dune buggying. Indisputably the most fun you can have in the desert. Totally hilarious. The dune buggying was like a roller coaster with a crazy driver who just wanted to go faster and faster. Dropping over the edge of some of the dunes (here the dunes are over 2000m high, so we're not talking of the usual sandunes we know and love), being unable to even see the edge of the slope, let alone the bottom of the dune as we plunge down the other side... often sideways. Driving up a sandune, practically vertical, sliding down sideways before we recover, twitch left and career back down the dune. SO MUCH FUN! The sandboarding was also a great laugh. Whoever thought up the sport of lying on an ironing board and throwing yourself down a near vertical sanddune, face first, for about 30 seconds until you reach the bottom with sand in your teeth and gritty eyeballs.... They're a genius. It was well worth the sand burns and the bruised hip bones the next day.
We also did a few mountain hikes to prepare us for the Inca Trail. Hiking at altitude was always going to be tough, but hiking to 4000m on our first day at altitude was breathtaking in a totally different way. We chewed our coca leaves, ate our coca lollies and pushed through the altitude barrier. All of us made it to the top, an incredible achievement. Despite two of us being stabbed by a long barbed cactus we were all unscathed too. Going back down was difficult for some, with dizzy spells and sickness being common. Still it's better that it happens now rather than on the Inca Trail. Our other hikes were a little more serene, still at altitude but not so steep. By walking in this way we were not only able to gain confidence for the Inca Trail but also see the local way of life in the remote villages. In some cases we would see villages where the inhabitants would walk for 8 hours uphill to the next village to trade their wares.
While at the homestay we played football until darkness fell (about 2 hours), we may have been making substitutes every 5 minutes and have had double the amount of players on the pitch but it ended up a draw. A fair result I think. While in Cusco we also tried our hand at ATVs (all terrain vehicles, or 4x4s if you prefer). This was incredible, and something you would never be able to do at home. We were each given our vehicle, and five minutes later we were off, like an ant trail each following the other. We drove past naked sunbathing women, through a garden (I'm not kidding) then onto a dual carriageway. Yes. A dual carriageway. On quadbikes. Those of us near the front were lucky for the road crossings and overtaking manoevres that our leader was encouraging (!!) but even though the way might have been clear for us, for those at the back things had changed and the way wasn't exactly clear for them! A definite hair-raising experience. We drove through trails and were given 'free time' to enjoy jumps and ramming into each other, before driving through farmyards, closely avoiding chickens, donkeys and cows before attempting some rapid descents and taking the dual carriageway back to the base. Five hours of pure exhilarating fun for only 25 quid. Bargain.
We also attempted horseriding around some of the Inca ruins around Cusco. Once again 'safety' was questionable, with no riding hats and everyone given the opportunity to gallop across the fields towards open roads if they so wish, or even if their horse so wished and they had no way of stopping it. Direction was limited and the group was often scattered across a field somewhere, with the quick horses around the front, Shane and his wayward horse somewhere around the other side of the mountain, Tim and his lazy horse eating near the start, Ashley and Donkey lolopping around and Steph attempting to control Diablo...the others randomly in the middle, some in control more than others. Some horses were a bit lazy, refusing to canter and instead just trotting really quickly which gave some of the boys localized bruising and a reason to squeal like girls. Most were talking like girls by the end of it too.
Finally, we were able to spend a couple of nights in the Amazonian Basin, staying a an Eco Lodge in the jungle. It was a similar experience to Borneo, except it felt a lot safer and more 'organised'. We saw many bugs, especially ants (soldier ants, fire ants, leaf-carrying ants...) and spiders (the most harmful being the wolf spider). We were lucky on our river safari to see Howler monkeys and in camp we saw more monkeys and weasels. We also visited the oxbow lakes where we saw bats, bat falcons, cayman (like alligators) and we even fed piranhas (both the vegetarian and the carnivorous ones). We had a couple of jungle walks too (luckily no leeches this time), and the bar was great in the evening for learning 'Mafia', our new favourite group game. Be warned if you ever go out with any of us in the near future, you will probably have to start playing it!

Culture (..ish)

You can't go to Peru without at least attempting to immerse yourself in the culture here. This was our excuse to drink many Pisco sours. Which, ironically, helped us immerse ourselves in the Peruvian culture a little more. Pisco is the local liquor here, and we saw how it was made early on our trip. We even had a Pisco tasting of all kinds of Pisco: Lemon, Orange, Natural, Sweet wine, Baileys-type etc. Some of it was bearable (baileys type) but most tasting like a strong tequila which just made us want to vomit. It's much nicer in the local cocktail of Pisco Sour though, mixing it with lemon juice, raw egg white and sugar. After a few of these we took part in Peruvian dances (hilarious) and even went into the local thermal baths (-5 degrees outside, 35 degrees in the pool... bliss). While at our homestay we had the opportunity to dress in traditional Peruvian dress too, complete with headdress, shawl, skirt, blouse... and trainers.

Thank yous...

As most of you know, June was a tough month for me with many anniversaries. I got through it with the help of my friends, one friend in particular... as always, I couldn't have got through it without Moi being there and supporting me through. You truly are the best friend anyone could wish for honey. I was also lucky to have the support of the group throughout the trip (given we were pretty much strangers!). To those of you made me laugh, allowed me to cry, took my mind off bigger things. Thank you.
One night in particular sticks in my mind. In tribute to Chris I had about 7 too many mojitos (Chris' favourite cocktail) and a few too many flaming drambuies (Chris' and my party trick). Chris' name (and several loving messages) are now graffitied on the wall of the rock bar in Puno, forever immortalized by his wife. Now, whoever comes to Peru will know how great he was (as if any of us needed telling). A few hours later the restaurant toilet was also forever immortalized by the 7 mojitos and the few flaming drambuies. I'd like to thank the naïve waitress who thought I had altitude sickness and who made me stick coca leaves to my head in an effort to make me feel better. Bless her. Not only did it totally confuse me, but it also gave much merriment to the rest of the group, especially when I insisted on picking up the wayward leaves (they kept falling off) and resticking them to my forehead. I'd like to thank Moira and Paul for taking me home and putting me to bed (at 9pm.. disgraceful), and once again I'd like to thank Moira for her sympathy. She knew I'd feel awful the next day so she kindly hit her head on the taxi door (did I mention the 7 mojitos?). The solidarity didn't end there. Just so I wasn't the only one to feel ashamed by my antics the next day, both Shane and Ashley also prayed to the porcelain god (thank you boys), and Shane continued to do so for most of the next day. Emer brought my glasses home safely too. They stayed out later than me and only came home at 230am. The rest of the group? Well let's just say none of us were particularly sprightly on the journey to Cusco the following day. Thank you all of you, you made a very difficult day disappear into oblivion. You made me laugh. You made me throw up. I'll never forget it. Above all though, thanks to Moi, her support never faltered (despite her common sense telling her 4 mojitos was enough and that you should never light drambuie in your mouth). I love you dearly xx

So the highlights of Peru? Easy. Drinking Inka Kola, eating baby goat stew, guinea pig and alpaca, pisco sours, coca leaves, alpaca knitwear, watching soaring condors, coping with the altitude, and above all, very good friends.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1214241180/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1214241180/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1214241180/tpod.html Mon, 23 Jun 2008 13:15:42 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

Arriving in Quito after 19 hours of solid traveling was not fun. We'd taken three planes, had to wait over 4 hours in each airport, and all overnight. We were shattered, but we did get to see Panama which was a bonus. So the first day in Quito was written off while we recovered and tried to catch up on some of the lost sleep. Ecuador is the second smallest country in South America, and politically it qualifies as 'unstable' due to having 7 presidents in the last 10 years. Its capital, Quito is a sprawling colourful metropolis sitting at just over 2,800m and split into the Old Town and the New Town. The New Town is, unsurprisingly, new, with newer buildings, wider roads, bars and restaurants, bigger hotels. The Old Town is very quaint and the buildings remind you of those in Havana or Barcelona. There are hundreds of churches and museums, but we chose to take the cable car up to 4,100m to the top of the nearby mountain. We also got to experience our first effects of the altitude, slight dizziness and shortness of breath. We'd better get used to it, in a couple of weeks we'll be climbing the Inca Trail which climbs over 4200m. Altitude sickness, here we come.

After a few days in Quito we took a flight to Baltra, in the Galapagos Islands. We were both so excited. This is a place we've both wanted to visit for years, and it always seemed so long away, near the end of our trip. Yet here we are. We boarded our boat, our home for the next four days, and began our rollercoaster ride (literally given the size of some of the waves) in the Galapagos.

97% of the Galapagos islands are a protected national park. We began with a visit to the Charles Darwin centre on the island of Santa Cruz. Charles Darwin (born in Shrewsbury don't you know) came across the Galapagos due to high winds blowing him off course in 1835. It was his discovery of the now christened 'Darwin Finches' that lay the foundation for his theories of evolution. The Galapagos are home to so many unique animals, a modern day laboratory of species found nowhere else in the world. At the Darwin centre we learnt about many of the projects underway to protect the inhabitants of the Galapagos islands, and in any cases to increase numbers of endangered species, for example the giant tortoise. There are different types of giant tortoise on different islands in the Galapagos, three types are already extinct due to pirates and whalers capturing and killing them for a square meal. This activity reduced the giant tortoise population from 250,000 to 10,000, some species only had a handful of breeding pairs left. It was stopped in the 1950s when the islands became protected, but the damage had already been done. We saw first hand the effects of human interference here, Lonesome George. Lonesome George is the last tortoise from Pinta Island, he is, quite literally, the end of the line. He was discovered in the early 1970s, and to date, there has been no female found. The experts at the CDRS are doing their best (use your imagination) to gain samples from Lonesome George, but without a female of the same species, this line will become extinct. More positively, work is ongoing to increase numbers of other species of giant tortoise, and we were lucky to see young tortoises being protected, especially those under two years old, who are very vulnerable as their shells have not yet hardened. We also saw those ready to be released into the wild on their respective islands, as they have reached the age of five. This breeding programme is obviously working, however, as numbers have grown from 10,000 to 15,000.

After Santa Cruz island, we traveled overnight to Floriana. Good god the sea was rough, cue lots of travel sickness tablets and lowered appetites. On Floriana we learnt about the sea turtles. There used to be 3 active sea turtle species on Galapagos, but now only one is prevalent, the Green Pacific Turtle. One species is extinct, and it is incredibly rare to see a Hawksbill Turtle as there are only a few breeding pairs left. Imagine our excitement when we managed to see one on our last day at Black Turtle Cove on Baltra island. We were over the moon. It is very difficult to increase numbers of sea turtles, due to natural selection, and the amount of enemies they have. Their eggs are laid on the beach, in nests, but only 5% of the eggs will hatch into healthy turtles as many are eaten by snakes or rats, species introduced to the Galapagos from the mainland by, you guessed it, the human race. Of the 5% which hatch into healthy turtles, only 3% (of the 5%) will survive to be one year old (adult turtles do not return to their young, so they are unprotected from the unnatural introduced species into their habitat.) Conservationists here are doing all they can to increase the numbers of turtle, while still abiding by the rules of natural selection. It's a difficult task.

The third island we visited was Espanola. Firstly, we spent time with the 500+ sea lion colony. What an incredible (and smelly) experience. Everywhere you looked, there were sea lions. Everywhere. In the water, on the beach, in the sand dunes, on the rocks... it was incredible. We took many pictures (unsurprisingly), were charged occasionally (there's so many of them it's difficult to keep a respectable distance at all times, no matter how hard you try). We had an unforgettable time. In the afternoon, we walked around the island, taking in the sights of the local wildlife. We saw larva lizards, the blue footed boobies, sometimes dancing (hilarious!), Nasca boobies, red footed boobies, Galapagos dove and gull and hood mockingbirds. We saw hundreds of marine iguanas (literally, hundreds), the males glowing red to retain warmth and alert the females, all genders spitting salt occasionally (the marine iguanas dive into the water for food, but in doing so swallow salt water with their meal. The salt needs to be repelled from their system, so once on land they literally spit out the salt, like they're sneezing). We also saw albatross, in flight, takeoff and landing (quite a task bearing in mind they weigh between 10-13kg. They take off from a cliff like a paraglider, glide through the air (an unforgettable sight) and landing is a definite bumpy affair). The albatross are a fascinating species, and absolutely one of my favourites. They mate for life, and despite the long distances they travel, they always end up together again, with the one who has arrived first calling for her partner in the sky. They share the job of incubating the eggs too, one flies to hunt food, one stays in the nest (which is always in the same place every year). Occasionally we saw abandoned eggs, this is due to one of the albatross partners being killed (usually while trying to land and cracking their heads on the rocks). It is impossible for one albatross to incubate the egg and hunt for food so this egg must be abandoned, apparently the next year the surviving albatross will find another mate and the cycle continues. We were very privileged to see all that we did regarding the lifecycle of this majestic bird.

The highlight of our visit to the Galapagos had to be the snorkeling however. It was just out of this world. The fish were colourful and we frequently found ourselves in the middle of schools of brightly coloured, curious fish (some with big teeth). But it was the sea lions that provided the most entertainment. They swam around you, playing with coral nearby, throwing it in the air (well, in the sea, but in the air... you know what I mean) then diving down again only to throw it once more. It reminded us of swimming with the fur seals in New Zealand, and you all know how much we enjoyed that. They would swim right up to you then avoid you at the last minute, or float up to you eyes wide open, teeth bared, then dive below, nipping at your flippers as they pass. They liked biting the flippers... which was playful, if you were wearing them... (more about that in a bit). Such an experience. During our snorkel off Espanola though, there were two bull sea lions fighting in the water. This wasn't a time to play with them, so we quickly swam in the opposite direction, only to see three sharks below us. Luckily they were white tipped reef sharks (non-man-eaters... usually) and they were relaxed so we left them to their own devices. The snorkeling in the Galapagos really was full of incredible memories, and a few surprises.

There were only two downsides to the Galapagos, and both are avoidable. The first is sea-sickness. The seas are often rough and you travel overnight between the islands. Take sea sickness pills and you'll be fine, just be prepared. The second is traveling to the Galapagos with GAP (the travel company we traveled with). The list of disappointments is lengthy, but I'll list them anyway. The boat we were on was practically falling apart, and two of the cabins were next to the engine with the noise and the fumes that this results in. They were incredibly small cabins and had little ventilation (no windows or fans) so the people in those rooms were very hard done by. One of the bathroom cabinets even opened directly onto the engine! The snorkel equipment was horrendous, there were no small size flippers (so those with smaller feet had to go without, pretty dangerous given the currents we snorkeled in and the playful biting of the sealions), and the snorkel masks and tubes were laughable. One fell apart in my mouth, and my replacement filled with water every second breath so I had to constantly empty it. It's a testament to the wonder of the Galapagos that the snorkeling was such a highlight given the equipment was so poor. Other things were also amiss; we never had a hot shower, we weren't given any idea of what we were actually doing so many people were unprepared. For example, our walk on Espanola was 2 ½ hours long, but this wasn't made clear in advance so many people didn't take a sunhat, suncream or water. Our itinerary was, frankly, totally made up! We didn't visit the islands we were told we would, nor did we do some of the activities. For us, this wasn't too much of a problem, since we had no idea what we were doing anyway (the joys of traveling for so long!) but for some people, for whom this was their annual holiday and they had researched where they were going, they were gravely disappointed. All these gripes and moans are also avoidable, however, just don't travel with GAP.

So in summary, the Galapagos was so much more than we were expecting. We have done African safaris and river safaris in Borneo. We have seen the orangutans, penguins, kangaroos, elephants, giraffes and lions. But these islands still managed to enchant us and leave us gagging to go back, to see more, to discover more about this incredible place. Next time though, I'll be packing lots of sea sickness tablets, and I absolutely, categorically will not be traveling with GAP.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1213221720/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1213221720/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1213221720/tpod.html Wed, 11 Jun 2008 18:05:19 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Rio de Janeiro, State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Brazil was an extra destination added to our trip, and we were so glad that we did. You often hear about the danger and violence associated with Brazil, the corruption and violent crime, the favelas and the drug lords. What many people gloss over is the natural beauty of Brazil, the powdery white sand beaches, the palm trees, the deep blue Atlantic coastline that stretches over 7000km, the tropical islands. It is enchanting and you can't help but fall under its spell.

I'm not saying that Brazil is safe and has no social problems, far from it, but keep your wits about you, be sensible, and you won't go too far wrong. In a country where 1% of the people own half the land, where there is one of the biggest income gaps between rich and poor in the world, where 50m live in abject poverty, it is advisable to stick to the rules: never walk on the beach after dark, don't wear anything 'flashy' and if someone ask for your possessions, give them up. They will use the weapon they're threatening you with.

Firstly, we visited Rio de Janeiro, home of the Carneval, the salsa and Copacabana beach. It is a vibrant and kicking city, understated and fun... with an edge to it. Rio is officially one of the most dangerous cities on earth (in the 90s there were over 700 murders per month in the streets of Rio). It s also a melting pot of cultures and colours due to the history here where descendents of Portugal, India, Africa, Italy, Spain, Germany, Russia, Lebanon and Japan are officially Brazilian. Everything and anything goes, everyone fits in. So, no staring like in conservative Chile. On Copacabana beach, where you sit is dictated by your neighbourhood. People watching is immense. There's never a dull day on Copacabana beach with the volleyball players, the gym lovers, the gym phobics, hawkers selling everything from beach towels to Brazilian football kits, the police, the footballers. It's a community. We had company in Brazil too as Tas joined us for a few days here. It was so comforting and familiar having friends around, we loved having him around to protect us. He arrived wth presents: haribo sweets, two massive bars of Cadbury's dairy milk, vodka and Heat magazine. Perfect. We stayed in a lovely hotel too which had a great view of the beach from our window. Good choice Tas! We visited the main tourist attractions; Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado and the Sugar Loaf mountain, both of which gave us incredible views of the city and multiple photo opportunities. We visited Copacabana beach and Tas and I tried wave jumping which was futile. The wave were so strong they spun you like a washing machine and spat you out exhausted and choking on salt water. Needless to say we didn't stay in there too long. We even managed to watch the Champions League final, albeit in Portuguese and buy some original Havaianas for a quarter of the price to back home. One thing to look out for in Brazil though is the portion sizes... jeez. One portion will feed a family of four. No joke. The first night we ordered a dish each, and didn't even make an observable dent in the amount of food we had.

After a few days in Rio we left to visit Ilha Grande, Brazil's third largest tropical island and about a 2.5hr journey South of Rio (150km). This was a stroke of genius. This island is pure paradise. It's totally unspoilt with only a small village centre where the ferry docks. There are no cars or roads on the island, no banks or cashpoints, nowhere takes credit or cards either, cash is king. The centre of the island is jungle, important remnants of the rapidly disappearing Mata Atlantica ecosystem. We stayed at a guesthouse called Pousada Nautralia, and Henrique, the manager, made us all feel incredibly welcome. It was on Ilha Grande that we went snorkeling looking for turtles, Tas got ill because he inhaled too much deet from the mosquito spray, and where we visited Lopes Mendes beach, officially one of the top 10 most beautiful in the world. It was superb, with sand that squeaked it was so fine (almost like new snow when it squeaks underfoot). The waves were large and the current and rip tide strong, so we had a lot of fun here too. The food on the island, especially the seafood was incredible too. Two nights on the trot we had a seafood barbeque with king prawns, shrimp, mussels, octopus, fried fish, scallops etc. The fish was so fresh it would have been rude not to. Henrique even organized our transport back to Rio. Such a gentleman. If you go to Ilha Grande, I'd definitely recommend Pousada Nautralia.

Returning to Rio after the safety of Ilha Grande was a bit of a shock, but we enjoyed ourselves by continuing to buy Havaianas (well they're so cheap!) and trying to complete one portion size of food. The energy is incredible here and if you can close your eyes to the aggression of the favela kids, the muggings, the prostitutes in Copacabana and the rip off merchants you'll love it. But you do need to understand the motivations behind the violence here. Most of the poor live in favelas (slums) with no access to clean water, sewerage systems or healthcare. The other side of the highway there are people living in luxury, like you'd see in Monaco or The Hamptons, surrounded by security walls and guards. A fortress. The government is corrupt, as are the authorities, and neither seem to have the inclination to do anything to correct their growing social problems. The country has an abundance of natural resources and developed infrastructure but less that half the country benefit from this. I'm not justifying the situation here, but it's going to take a very strong and intelligent person to turn Brazil around, and I'm not sure it's going to happen in the near future.

Our next stop is Equador and the Galapagos islands, unfortunately we can't bring Tas with us, he has had to return home (he did leave the chocolate and the vodka though, good lad!).
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1212815340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1212815340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1212815340/tpod.html Sat, 07 Jun 2008 00:10:30 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Santiago, Chile

We only had one night here, so i'm not sure I'm qualified to write a blog on our stay to be honest! But first impressions were:

1: culture shock (again). After over 2 months in Australia and New Zealand, where traveling is, simply, as comfortable as a duvet, we landed in Chile where hardly anyone speaks English and the culture is totally different. Luckily my rusty Spanish came in handy, and we were able to get by.

2: Although you expect South American countries to be similar, Chile definitely had a 'safer' feeling about it than we were expecting. A definite plus.

3: Did you know that Chile has a female president? It shows. Chile has shown dramatic social improvement and has half the poverty it had in 1990. This is a country open to change. So although we were stared at (a lot), at least we were seen in a positive light.

4: Santiago has a stunning backdrop of the snowcapped Andean mountains. Although we didn't explore much, it seemed safe, if a little smoggy.

We have heard nothing but positive statements about Chile, especially the far North and South. I'd also like to see Argentina. So these two are to be put on the backburner for now, to be explored at a future date... maybe our next set of travels??
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1212810660/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1212810660/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1212810660/tpod.html Sat, 07 Jun 2008 00:00:48 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Auckland, North Island, New Zealand


Following our week of relaxation in the Cook Islands, we returned to New Zealand for a few days before our flight to South America, and the next leg of our journey. Although we had already spent over three weeks in New Zealand, we hadn't managed to meet up with friends so we made up for it on this trip.

Firstly, we met up with Natalie, an old school friend and fellow show jumper. We hadn't seen her for over 12 years and it was so lovely to catch up. We stayed with her in Tauranga, met her lovely husband, and had a perfect time. We learnt so much about kiwis too (the fruit, not the New Zealanders). Did you know you can't pick kiwi fruit when it's raining? Or that there are two types of kiwi... green and golden? No, us neither. Thanks Nat!

The following day was perhaps the most exhilarating yet on our journey... we went skydiving. It truly was a mind blowing experience, especially so because neither of us were nervous, we were just so excited and looking forward to it. We were lucky with our tandem partners too, and the company we chose, Tauranga Tandem Skydive. Our tandem partners, Tony and Tiger instilled such confidence in us, and made the whole experience such fun, that we had no choice but to enjoy ourselves. We were all suited up with the overalls, harnesses, life vests (incase we land in water), hats and gloves. We were taken through the safety procedures and the techniques to adopt in the air and landing (chin up, head back, kick them in the bottom - yes they did say that - legs up and out for landing). After seeing the plane and reviewing the techniques we were installed in our seating arrangements with Moi in the body of the plane and me next to the door because I'd be jumping first. We were off, in the air expertly flown by John, with only one way down - freefall. Opening the door next to me at 10000ft was slightly unnerving, but it was only after the jump, falling swiftly through the clouds, that it actually occurred to me that we were jumping out of a plane. The freefall was incredible, feeling the moisture from the clouds, the 120mph wind as we fell, the noise of the wind and the sight of the ground below, then the parachute was opened and all was quiet... well except for my excited screams and begging calls to Tony to let me do it again. I had a go of the handles directing our landing and we had some fun turning in many spirals, faster and faster till I was dizzy. I loved every minute. After landing, I was able to watch Moi too. Just an incredible experience. Everyone has to try it at least once in their lifetime, believe me. If you're in New Zealand, we'd totally recommend Tauranga skydives too, leave the big boys at Taupo or Queenstown alone - Tauranga's the place to go!

So, filled with adrenaline, we drove to Auckland to meet up with Jeff, who we shared Bush Camp with in South Africa back in January. He very kindly gave up his apartment to us for the night, and showed us the sights and sounds of Auckland. We even met his Weimaraner, Blue, and we were able to go dog walking. A wonderful afternoon. Thanks for putting up with us Jeff, you were the perfect host. Just before leaving for the airport we also met up with an old Uni friend (ok, less of the old - hi Rick) and we caught up on life stories and more recent activities. Those of you who know him, ask Rick about the banged up car, the call girl and the $500... an hilarious story!

So it was with great regret that we left New Zealand for the charms of South America. We both fell in love with New Zealand, with its natural beauty, its incredible wildlife, and its awesome skydiving. This is a place that will win you over in seconds.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1211991720/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1211991720/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1211991720/tpod.html Wed, 28 May 2008 12:42:56 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Rarotonga, Southern Cook Islands, Cook Islands

It's quite difficult to write a blog for somewhere where you did nothing.

No really. Nothing.

Well ok, we ate, we slept, we read books, we drank a little, we snorkelled, we kayaked and swam in the beautiful clear waters amongst the tropical fish.

The only thing which is worth writing about though was our abillity to obtain our Cook Island driving licences. This meant we could hire mopeds (we didn't even need to take the 'obligatory' test because we were from th UK - big mistake. I've never been on a moped before and struggle to ride a pushbike). Even the Cook Islanders found my driving skills to be hilarious. They would beep and laugh out of the window as the passed. I continued to wobble all over the roads (luckily there's only one road on Raratonga, and the speed limit is 50kph so the danger element was low.) It didn't help that it was pourng with rain too, making it quite slippy (that was my excuse). It was great fun though, and made a rainy day pass very quickly.

The Cook Islands are very beautiful, very relaxing and very friendly and safe. Where else are you greeted at the airport with flower garlands and by a man serenading you all with a guitar? We had a welcome week of luxury here before our trip to South America.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1211989920/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1211989920/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1211989920/tpod.html Wed, 28 May 2008 11:55:45 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Kaikoura, South Island, New Zealand

We'd like to say that the South Island of New Zealand was infinitely more superior to the North Island... but we'd be lying. The South Island is spectacular. But, in our opinion, it is no more so than the North Island. In its entirety, New Zealand is breathtaking. It is also a place Chris wanted to visit so I feel glad that he's had the opportunity to see it through my eyes.

We continued our camping marathon with Bertha and spent a further two weeks in the South Island. We began our journey in the North at the Abel Tasman National park. Unfortunately our time here was marred by some torrential rain, scuppering our plans of kayaking, however, we managed to have some fun, and, in particular, enjoy the local cuisine of fish and chips on the sea front. It reminded us of eating them in North Wales as kids, although I don't think we would have got fresh gemfish in Conwy!

Our next stop was down the South West coast to Kaikoura, which is, officially, my favourite place in New Zealand. It was here that we ate fresh crayfish (Kaikoura means 'eat crayfish' in Maori - pop trivia for you). It was here that we went whale watching, however the highlight was swimming with the Kekeno, also known as the New Zealand Fur Seals (one of the most amazing experiences of my life). This is an encounter of the rarest kind, one where we were able to appreciate and understand natural animal behaviour in their own habitat... albeit with our clumsy attempts at drifting in the water amongst them, dressed to impress in a full wetsuit complete with boots, gloves and hood, together with snorkel and flippers. We could forgive the Kekeno for belly laughing into their fish supper at the sight of us. Perhaps unsurprisingly, they initially kept their distance, diving deep underneath, circling and then coming up for air nearby. Their behaviour gradually changed however, as their natural curiosity and general cheekiness betrayed their cumbersome size and large ferocious teeth (carnivorous male Kekeno can grow to up to 2.5m and weigh more than 150kg). Within minutes we are in paradise, with Kekeno diving and twirling, blowing bubbles next to us and mimicking our swimming direction (with their natural athletic ability it is very difficult for them to copy our swimming style). They come very close, enough to look us clearly in the eyes, allowing us the opportunity to see their large brown pupils, the long pale whiskers and their distinctive visible ears, before diverting to a safer distance. They then return for more, this time on their backs, whiskers in the air, flippers flapping like a can-can dancer, before they glide away into the deep. Truly incredible. Totally mind-blowing. If you ever want to experience the time of your life... this is it.

So other highlights, well you'll have read about our fly by shooting incident, but that wasn't our only adventure, nor our only memorable visit. We stayed in Hanmer Springs (yes there's somewhere called Hanmer in NZ - for those of you who don't know, that is the name of the place where I grew up), we spent time in Queenstown and in Arrowstown where it snowed for days (dazzlingly dramatic but bleedin cold when you're camping - the coldest night was -7, we were sleeping in thermals, socks and wooly hats) In f act, the entire South of the South island was breathtaking - the turquoise lakes, the snowcapped mountains, the technicolour leaves.... Just astonishing. We also spent time in Dunedin, and on the Otago Peninsula (the scene of the fly by shooting), we loved it there (despite the emergency bird-poo-clean-up). We had another adventure there too. This time we escaped the wrath of the avian variety, and instead picked a fight with a 400kg male sea lion. Well, 'picked a fight' might be a bit of an exaggeration. We had decided to take a break from driving and visit the local beach, we knew there would be local wildlife nearby: seals, sealions, penguins, sea birds... we didn't expect, while walking through the sand dunes, chatting to each other, to almost step on the flipper belonging to a 400kg male sea lion. Honestly, we didn't see him. I know, I know... they're large animals, they're fat and blubbery, they even make a weird grunting noise when you get close - we know that now - but to be fair, he was hidden in the sand dunes, and lying down. We quickly about turned and made our way to a safe distance and the daddy sea lion settled back down to his sleep. Sealions can move very quickly over land and can be aggressive especially when humans are standing (which they take as a fighting stance). Luckily by backing away he didn't see us as a threat and we managed to walk safely around him.

So the South Island has been cold, stunning, adrenalin inducing, amazing and breathtaking.... Who wouldn't want to come here?

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1210191900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1210191900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1210191900/tpod.html Wed, 07 May 2008 16:32:43 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Dunedin, South Island, New Zealand

The Otago Peninsula is usually known for its exciting diversity of wildlife and its spectacular scenery. It is here that you can find the Royal Albatross, fur seals, yellow eyed penguins (the world's rarest penguins don't you know), blue penguins, sea lions, seabirds: gulls, terns, herons and a wide variety of shags (great, little, spotted... - there are many shags in New Zealand). Many tourists visit the Otago Pensinsula to be part of arguably the most precious wildlife habitat in New Zealand and to witness the wildlife in their own habitat, uninhibited and well... being natural.

This part of New Zealand is virtually free from crime, free from terror. And so it is with great sadness that I have to report an act of violence of the greatest degree, and worst still, committed not by a tourist, but by one of their own, a habitant of this beautiful corner of the world. One of the shags. A little shag to be exact. The unsuspecting victims, two 30yr old (sshh - don't tell anyone) female travelers from North Wales in UK were appalled, and slightly hysterical after the attack. The two girls told us of how they had survived an elephant invasion of their camp in Africa, the pedestrian crossings in Vietnam and the frankly awful sanitary conditions in Asia. They were humbled, shocked and very emotional that their great downfall was to be brought about by a little shag. According to eye witness accounts, this is how the scene unfolded...

The girls (one blonde, one ginger) were admiring the views and the sights from the heights of the Otago Peninsula. They had been to play with the fur seals and had come to the cliff edge to watch the various seabirds there is to admire. The albatross soared above them, majestic and mythical, the seagulls crowed to their friends, and the little shags tried their best to fly in the gusty wind. They flew about with gay abandon, often hitting the rock ledges by accident. In the air they resembled young children learning to ride a bike with their legs stuck out at right angles, like stabilizers, while they tried, in vain, to combat the gusty wind. The girls even compared the sight to Moira trying to ski... before she fell over. They found the sight absolutely hilarious (pictures attached). The poor girls, the victims of this needless attack, couldn't tear themselves away from the cliff edge, with the out of control shags zooming incoherently, recklessly and, well, stupidly, all around them. So, maybe it was the shags' revenge when one lost bladder control high in the sky, at the exact moment that a gust of wind took the excrement on its wings and guided it, full whack, into the faces of the poor unsuspecting tourists. The chances of this fly by shooting happening must be a million to one. I suspect the shags had had enough of the public humiliation. Those girls do laugh quite loudly after all. And they were laughing at them. For a long time. For a very long time. The blonde one said after the event, " we both saw some objects coming towards us, but were powerless to move. We couldn't believe we were the only people hit." The ginger one (now streaked with blonde/yellow/white) added "how come this sort of thing only happens to us? Only yesterday we almost stepped on a 400kg sea lion because we didn't see him... yet we walk away unscathed. And now this... I'm speechless." So there you have it ladies and gentlemen. We will leave the girls to clean themselves up, although I don't know how they'll manage it in between the peals of laughter, currently they're practically bent over double in mirth, and they smell pretty awful. At least being crapped on by a bird means they will have good luck in the future... I wonder what it means when they're crapped on by a little shag...?
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1210145580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1210145580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/moretojr/1/1210145580/tpod.html Wed, 07 May 2008 03:36:12 -0400 New year... new adventures... new life

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Tongariro National Park, North Island, New Zealand

We arrived in Auckland late in the afternoon and stayed at a bizarre hostel (it was like someone's house... in fact I think it was someone's house, we found it on he internet...) and the next morning we picked up our campervan which was to be our home for the next 22 days. We booked it over the internet (the internet has a lot to answer for) on the basis that it was cheap. Also we have two beds in the van instead of the usual one which we thought would give us a little bit more space. What we didn't realize is that the van is about 10yrs old (with a LOT of miles under it's belt) and has 'Happy Campers' written in every available space. In big yellow and black writing. With a smiley faces. Everywhere.

Now we weren't going to mention this, but quite a few times on the trip Moira and I have been mistaken for a 'couple'. Even so far as one hostel manager wishing us a 'lovely honeymoon', and one lady saying 'well you can't help who you fall in love with' to Moi as she was jokingly berating my clumsiness. Moi and I don't actually mind this, we find it quite funny and it has its advantages... mainly that it keeps those pesky men at bay. However, since we've had this camper van, our level of 'campness' has obviously shot through the roof. We drive around in our little 'happy camper' amid many wishes of 'happy camping' shouted to us from the street. It's a good job we're secure people. Also we have fallen in love with our little van... and christened her Bertha.

So, very excited about the prospect of three weeks camping, we set off down the North Island for a week, and together (me, Moi and Bertha) we visited the Coromandel Peninsula, Rotarua, Tongariro National Park, Hawkes Bay and Wellington. To be honest, for once I am speechless (stop laughing all of you... it had to happen sometime). New Zealand has left me totally awestruck by its natural beauty, it's very difficult to put into words just how stunning this country is. One of the highlights was the Wai O Tapo geothermal springs near Rotarua. An incredible sight, watching the ground bubble and steam right next to you, and although the sulphur (read: rotting eggs) smell was very overpowering, it was well worth the visit. The main highlight of the North Island for us though, was doing the Tongariro Crossing. It was simply spectacular. By far and way the best walk I have ever done in my life, all 18.5k of it up mountains, over volcanos, down past thermal pools and through forests. I can't possibly do it justice in this text, you'll have to check out the pictures yourselves, but my favourite spot was the Red Crater, it just took your breath away. We also had the best picnic ever here, although to be honest, anything would have tasted great sat next to the steaming crater with the emerald pools beneath us. I was glad of the last minute purchases of thermals and gloves too. We were so lucky with the weather, it was a crystal clear day with bright sunshine and only light winds. This meant the views were awe inspiring (we could even see Mount Taranaki in the distance in her snow capped glory), but also that it was very cold (especially out of the sun) so we were glad we'd prepared ourselves beforehand. All in all, we couldn't think of a better way to spend a Monday. It was superb.

In short, we're loving our camping adventure. New Zealand feels very familiar, it's very like Britain (only less populated and everywhere you turn you have views similar to Snowdonia or the Cairngorns), you can get proper 'fish and chips' and even '99 cornets' - with a flake. It's also cheaper than Australia (thank the Lord). However, despite our efforts at exploiting the summer months everywhere we visit, unfortunately it is now entering Autumn here, and it's blinkin' freezing. We're off to the South Island where the weather is even colder and it's snowing. Can't wait... I might just go and buy another pair of thermals.
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