TravelStream™ news feed for member milvos on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/milvos en-us Copyright ©2010 TravelPod.com Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:27:57 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977363520/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977363520/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977363520/tpod.html Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:27:57 -0500 Stories from a year living and working in Guatemala.

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Frontier with honduras, Honduras

Border Crossings

Border Crossings, are always a little daunting and interesting especially in remote spots.. You may not speak the language and know where to go and what to do. You hear of alot of stories of people being intimidated, robbed, or just ripped off, while crossing borders especially here in Central America. Not that I have had any of these problems but they are always in the back of my mind. I crossed numerous borders in the past year. The worst being 4 hours in a hot sticky queue after Christmas, crossing from Costa Rica to Nicaragua.. I have had a few other memorable crossings that happened on different trips from Guatemala to Honduras. The first was quiet funny looking back at it now any way.

I left Coban in the highlands in a rush, I was hoping to make San Pedro Sula by nightfall (a 12 hr hell bus journey). I packed early in the morning in a rush as always as I can never get out of bed on time. I hoped to get an early bus. I checked for all the important stuff for about the third time passport, money, and credit card. I slipped a few hundred Q ($100 US) into my passport for safekeeping.

All went well I had made the border in really good time. But the trip is really tiring from the mountains to the lowlands just wears you out. Whether it is the altitude change or the temperature I don't know. There was no queue to get the entry stamp for Honduras so I stepped on up. I handed my passport over to get the necessary stamps. Surprisingly the attendant all of a sudden signaled to someone at the door, I looked around shocked, I thought what the hell is going on here. A security guard walked in Uzi and all. They were exchanging glances in between looking me over. My heart began to pound,. Thoughts ran threw my mind. What have I done, what have I done. All of a sudden a voice, the questions began. My Spanish is ok but under the circumstances I could only catch a few words, drugs, trouble, problems, wanted. I was dumb founded. I quickly spat out one of the usual gringo cries for help. 'My Spanish is not good can you speak slowly'. He all of a sudden looked seriously pissed. While I was just getting worried. He turned and signaled over a, more important looking guy from the office behind. Shit I was in trouble but for what, had my visa ran out. It was time to try to speak again. 'I don't understand what is the problem'. The attendant's eyes caught mine in what seemed to be a stare of death. He lifted up the money that I had forgot I had put in my passport. I quickly stuttered out 'I am sorry' in what sounded like a truly pathetic gringo Spanish, at least 4 times, 'its my fault', then, 'I put it there for security and had forgot'. For once in my life on purpose I tried to look stupid and as innocent as possible. It worked, after a stand off and whispers from behind the desk. The attendant picked up the stamp and bang. I sighed a sign of relieve. My stamps where stamped. My money returned. I think though by the looks I got as I left they where only thinking one thing " Another Stupid Tourist" I was slightly embarrassed. I don't know whether they really thought I was trying to bribe them to get across the border or whether they where just putting the wind up me. But it worked I will never put money in my passport again. That's for sure. I made the last bus and made San Pedro by nightfall.

The same crossing but on an earlier trip. On the way this time from Honduras to Guatemala. We where waiting in a mini bus to shuttle us to the other side. About 4km, strangely enough the bus left with only 5 passengers they can usually fit 15 people in them. Strange buses never leave unless they are full especially at the borders. As we drove pass the line of trucks waiting to get through, we came to a quick sudden stop. From behind one of the trucks 8 or so guys jumped out. I thought no, robbery, but instead they quickly pushed in to the bus. We sped of literally flat out. About a little over 500mt short of the entrance to Guatemala we came to a quick stop again. The guys we had picked up got out as quickly as they had got in. And ran, for the trees along the side of the road. There was a sense of urgency in their faces. All the other passengers didn't even raise an eyebrow. As I looked around a little bewildered as to what was going on. By chance the driver caught my eyes in the rear view mirror and simply smiled. That wasn't the end. There were 2 young girls in the mini bus as well. I got my passport stamped no problems. It is a lot quicker some times as a foreigner. As I reached the other side to get a taxi to the nearest town the 2 girls where there waiting as well. They where whispering to one of the drivers. He signaled me over to jump in the taxi. I did the girls jumped in the back and again we sped of flat out. I realized I had not seen the girls in getting their papers stamped. Whats up this time. Not again I thought. Just up ahead I noticed the police on the side of the road. This will be interesting, the driver yelled something at the girls they ducked quickly. All of sudden we toke a quick left a detour, gravel road back way into town. As sudden as before we stopped quickly in front of a few small house. On a dusty back road. The driver pointed to one of the houses; the girls grabbed their bags and headed straight for the door. It opened and then closed behind them. A smile and a wink this time from the driver. I made the last bus again. Some luck





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Guatemala City, Guatemala

You couldn't help us out times have been tough. No job, wife, kids you know. Just a little would help?

I have heard it countless times during travels especially here in Central America, whether from beggars or someone that has helped you out. Being the compassionate, new age guy that I am I usually try to help with something. It helps me sleep at night. Also good way to get rid of that small change that just piles up. Anyway this time I thought no way, no coins for you guys, you saved me; how about, here is 50Q US$7. We all smiled as the exchange took place. I even told them to have a good night and get drunk on me. It was hand shakes all round. We may have even seemed like parting friends to the passer by. But instead we had just met 4 cigarettes, 2 Cuba Libres (rum and coke) and around 10 minutes walk ago, so say around 15 minutes in a seedy bar in Zona 1 in Guatemala City.

As for what I was doing in this bar let me explain.

I had just returned to Guatemala City from Antigua after a few days working at the national tourism fair. A great few days that was for sure. I was on a high, without a care in the world. It is only a 15 min walk between the Antigua bus terminal and the Coban bus terminal (Coban being home). I had the route well memorized, first left, 4 blocks pass the pharmacy, left then 2 blocks and so on, but this time I messed up. It hadn't been long, when I started to realize I was off course. It couldn't see any of the usually landmarks and buildings. Ah, no need to worry just backtrack a few blocks, take a few different turns and I should get to somewhere I recognize.
I walked around in what could have been circles for who knows how long. Today I didn't care the noisy, polluted, vendor stacked streets seemed bearable, liveable and there seemed to be a chaotic sense to it all. Even the homeless and the piles of human shit that scatter the streets didn't even bother me today. I was floating on air, all smiles and dreamy. This place aint to bad, just got to get to know it and appreciate the little things. That's it.

All of a sudden from nowhere there was a huge Afro-American right in front of me, from the look of his face and eyes there was something up. He had that strange air and look that comes from the constant sniffing of stationary goods, mainly glue. Heeey mannn you got USSSS dollarsss? "What a question in English someone is talking to me, awaken". I was dumbfounded "hey what" I answered. Bang, smack, ahhhh, I was grabbed from behind around the neck. A quick urgent whisper in my ear "Give us your money we want nothing else" I could hardly breathe, less answer. A quick thought, what is going on. The struggle had begun a few quick jabs from the front thug, more pressure from behind. Another whisper for my money.

Out of some truely stupid instinct, from I don't know where and why, I dug in, gripped my daypack with my valuables in it and tried to look around and appeal for help. It was 1.00 o clock in the afternoon on a Monday there was passing cars, people on the street. Help me someone I thought as loud as I could, as I couldn't even speak.

Change in tactics the front thug went for my daypack. The guy behind kept pulling back towards him. He did it, we fell to the ground, him, my backpack then me. I was a turtle stuck on my back, helpless. Tug of war began with the front thug for my daypack. It seemed the whole thing already had gone on for an eternity, time had stopped seconds become minutes. Out the corner of my eye suddenly I caught a glimpse of someone running my way. My savior I hoped. He was getting closer, I noticed more people behind him. He had what looked like a baseball bat or was it a club.

Next I just recall my tug of war thug getting what sounded like and I hope a few broken ribs from what did turn out to be a baseball bat. The ribs again then a couple to the head. The guy behind managed to get up and he quickly sped away, hoping to flee a beating I guess. I was quickly up also heart pounding, shaken and shocked. The crowd had swelled to around 40 people when I finally looked around. The bat wielder had stepped back and a few other friendlys had stepped in over the fallen thug, It was boots in time. A siren quickly came a roaring from a distance. The ever on time Guatemalan police. The friendlys stopped there kicking but all a little too soon. The thug somehow got to his feet and dashed off. The police had them for sure, but as they had got nothing they would just be questioned then let go.

A few people from the crowd approached me 'are you ok", "did they get anything", I was ok my nerves where going crazy though, I had the shakes like I had just been coming off a weeklong bender of drinking. Someone noticed my plight and he put his arm around me, a few others picked up my bags. " You are ok my friend, come over with us to this bar we are good people, don't worry, just till you calm down" I agreed. It seemed the whole bar had come to my rescue. For the shakes there is only one cure and I got it as soon as I took a seat at the bar. A double Cuba Libre was dropped in front of me " for your nerves " the barman said. English again I had never met so many English speakers in Zona 1 in one day.

I was regaining composure. The compassion and concern from the bars patrons really helped. After a few minutes and 2 quick drinks and cigarettes. All I could think of was a bus and the safe mountains of Coban. I downed the last of the Cuba, picked up my bags thank everyone for what was about the fifth time. As I headed to the door the offer came for help again. I tried to refuse but it was useless they insisted. So off we went to the bus station me and my three local bodyguards, one of the guys was wearing my backpack and managed to put a smile on my face as he pretended to be a lost tourist. We where at the Coban bus station relatively quick that's when it came the question for financial support.
The halos that had been floating above there heads suddenly dimmed, but didn't at least disappear.

How could I refuse or not give them at least enough for the afternoons drinking. They had saved me from my worst travelling fear being robbed and beaten. Our parting words where I remember. Mine, muchas gracias otra vez (thank you again) theirs " don't worry if we see them guys around tonight we will fix them up abit for you" as the 50Q note was waved. I seemed I had paid for something I never thought I would a HIT on a homeless person.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977363100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977363100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977363100/tpod.html Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:25:32 -0500 Stories from a year living and working in Guatemala.

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Frontier, Guatemala

The only generator in town


It had been a long day, the national park was great though. We had only one highlight left to go "The Disco". A few guys we had met at the hotel the night before had insisted that this was the only place to go at night for a beer. They where strange guys though and it was a strange night.

Let me explain. There seemed to be a group of about 40 people staying at the hotel, they were building houses in town, so they said. It all became abit strange when Rainer (German friend) came laughing upstairs from a trip to the bathroom, which isn't that, strange. All I could say was "what" and brace myself for his antics. 'You wont believe this there is 40 people packed into one of the rooms downstairs. It looks like some kind of meeting, but as I walked pass, the door was quickly closed as they all tried to push into the room, there was ducking, sudden silence and then the light was turned off. Go and have a look it is really strange'. I could not resist, it all sounded abit weird. Why turn the light off; you had already seen them, strange way to hide. And why hide!! So off I went and guess what exactly the same thing happened to me. Pushing people, door, noise then lights. It was well strange. After this we both started to take notice of what was going on as we passed doors and windows. We had a feeling something strange was going on or about to happen. Curiosity was getting the best of us.

About 30 minutes later I went out for a smoke this time there where meetings in the 2 rooms near ours but only groups of 8 or so people. I glanced into the room as I passed by and caught a glimpse of one guy, who seemed in charge, handing out wads of money. The strange thing is that it wasn't Guatemalan money.

The town we where in is situated in the north of Guatemala near the Mexican border it is in a very remote spot and one of the last real frontier towns in Guatemala. We had been told to expect strange things in town and most of all to be careful. Our curiosity was struck up that night in the hotel. Most of that night we chatted, recalling all that we had seen and happened, trying to piece together what was going on. It was quiet exciting, my curiosity at times can be a problem, could it be drugs, smuggling, guns, or just a stop work meeting, what. We eventually gave in to sleep as our imaginations wore out.

The whole happenings that night hadn't recrossed our minds much the following day until we entered the highlight of town "The Disco". The Disco is not a disco as us westerners would call one. This disco gave of a red glow due to the red painted light globes, its patrons where all male and there was a stage which was used for, yes I am sure you guessed it strip shows. We had entered the local brothel, strip club. Only one thing to do I guess get a table and have some drinks. As the beer relaxed us abit we began to talk about the strange meetings in the hotel again. The beers where helping our imaginations run wild again, but the constant traffic to and from a back door near our table changed our conversation to a more male topic "hey what is actually going on in here". It seemed one of the younger and prettier girls was attracting all the customers and constantly returning out the back only after 2 or 3 minutes back out the front. Poor thing.

A guy came towards us he grabbed a seat and sat down. I looked at Rainer, him at me "who is this". A quick question from him about how was the national park helped us realized, it was one of the guys from the hotel we had spoken to who had recommended us this place. He seemed in high spirits all talk and smiles, at first I thought it was, easily explained, he had just come from out the back, but it turned out he had more to be happy about than just that. He ordered us a round, then we did, conservation up to then had been his family, ours, home basic stuff. He really was in high spirits I envied him being so high on what seemed no more than a few beers and the fun of life. I went to order another round it was our turn, but he insisted, "No I want to pay I will tell you why" he said. The beers where starting to effect him. "I am so happy tomorrow morning we leave for the USA. I will be able to see my father again". We began to pay full attention to his story. It turned out his father had been working illegally in the USA for a few years and had organized passage for him through Mexico then into the states with a group of people smugglers. All the people staying at the hotel where involved. He hoped to make Houston were there was a job waiting in just 2 weeks. He said the border crossings could take time, all has to be right before they will attempt to cross. He ordered us another beer "for the road" he said. A perfect choice of words.

The beer just arrived when the lights and power went out. A quick look outside and it seemed the whole town was out. Shit!! Sitting in the dark in a sleazy brothel in Guatemala wasn't my idea of a totally safe time, I suggested we leave "Just wait" our friend said. With in only just a few minutes the generator was roaring, the music was turned up of course, so the generator or nothing else could be heard and we had lights. We finished the last of the beer. It was time to go. We wished our friend all the best with the future especially tomorrow and the following few weeks. Which if all went well would change his life for the better, forever.

As we set out to navigate the muddy road home, it seemed the whole town was still dark no power. The only place in town with a generator was the disco. At least the red glow from the disco helped us navigate the street back to the hotel. I suppose having a generator at the disco makes sense. Can't have the best place to drink in town, lose power at night. What would all the men do?

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977357640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977357640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/milvos/guate00/977357640/tpod.html Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:24:10 -0500 Stories from a year living and working in Guatemala.

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Coban, Guatemala

Adultos Tres



Doce (12), Quite a jump from the normal price of 7Q but then tonight was special Adultos Tres (adults three). As we stepped over the piles of rubble from the seeming never ending renovations and entered the theatre. I could not believe my eyes the cinema was nearly full. There must have been close to 400 to 500 people there. In nearly a year of seeing movies here the biggest crowd I had seen was 40 to 50 people, and that was for the latest Van Damne movie. Van Damne is huge here, in even the smallest of rural markets there is always market stalls selling Van Damne gear (T-shirts, bags, posters). Tonight I guess Van Damne had meet his match at least here in the highlands of Guatemala, and of all things to beat his crowd drawing capacity it was a 70's porn movie.

Guatemala is a very conservative country. The varoius religions are strong and the Mayan Indigenous people who make up around approx. 95% of the population here in the highlands live a life of a forgot age. But when a porn movie comes to town to seems they come out in droves. I guessed the crowd was mainly young males but to my surprise we did spot a few women in the crowd.

As we toke our seats it must have been close to starting time. The crowd's eager cheers and joking nature were building. I will admit there was quite an atmosphere especially for the movies. I thought we might of felt it more than the locals, the idea of a porn movie on a cold damp night in the remote and isolated Guatemalan highlands, it was quite the location. But then I was mistaken. The lights went off, the film rolled and the place erupted. The Mayan folk of this area are so humble and quiet but tonight it looks like they all stayed home.

From the opening seconds you could tell plot, dialogue and acting were all going to be abit poor, but tonight no one had come for that. It was straight into it. The dialogue and plot turned out to be even shorter than I thought possible. Someone had taken to the movie and cut more or less all the talking and of course unnecessary seduction scenes out of the movie. So it was just a literally continuos sex romp.

It seemed to work for the crowd they were screaming and cheering to every oh and ah. There also was a lot of Spanish words being yelled out that I had not heard in my Spanish classes. I can't guess why? The whole first 10 or 15 minutes made me feel 16 again with friends watching a porn movie while some ones parents were out, but in this case I had 400 friends over. The close ups brought out the best in the vocal crowd. The sight of a 15-meter hard throbbing penis or I suppose, I can leave it to your imagination, seemed to hypnotize the crowd into a short, screaming burst of joy.

As porn movies go this one didn't break to many new boundaries. Rocky a want to be gangster (the hero) and his friends took all women that crossed there paths with the greatest of ease. New characters would be introduced in nothing more than a break from one sex scene to the next. For instance, the crowd had become a little bored as Rocky and Co did all. The movie cutter had anticipated this might happen at this point. As Rocky thrusted again the scene broke to a Negro with at least a 40-cm penis it was hard to guess ( the size), and a huge breasted blond women. The size of these extra large bits on the screen, at first numbed the crowd then brought them to a roaring laughter.
After a little over an hour. Rocky was interrupted during climax and tragically shot by rival gangsters he toke his last breath and fell to the ground his sex romp had ended.
As we left Rockys world and filed out into the cold streets of downtown Coban. We discussed where to next. Home it seemed was best, the rain was back again. We looked around for a taxi, but there wasn't one in sight. Unusual, there are taxis everywhere here usually. A quick look and there was none near Central Park either. After only a few minutes the whole crowd had left and in the rain. The streets where literally abandoned. No one every rushes here.

After abit of thought, and deliberation we decided the lack of taxis and people could only point to one thing. Everyone after the movie had only one thing on his or her mind. Sex. There was a rush to get home to a wife, mistress, or girlfriend or to beat your fellow moviegoer to the Titanic or Paradise or one of the other brothels that scatter town.

Guatemalan men don't really need much encouragement when it comes to women. In their minds they all are the greatest Casanovas around. Tonight's movie had taken them to a new height.

One thing was for sure, for all concerned male or female. It was going to be one hell of a night. The movie was just the warm up.


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