TravelStream™ news feed for member mickels on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/mickels en-us Copyright ©2010 TravelPod.com Wed, 03 Jun 2009 13:07:34 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mickels/1/1243371724/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mickels/1/1243371724/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mickels/1/1243371724/tpod.html Wed, 03 Jun 2009 13:07:34 -0400 Norway: Bergen Parte Deux!

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Bergen, Hordaland, Norway

My holiday was coming to an end and I would be returning home today. I felt quite saddened with the prospect but realised that all good things must come to an end and once back in London I would have the unenviable task of finding work again- which afforded me this special treat for my Birthday in the first place! Frank and Marcela had been wonderful hosts too, helping me to really enjoy this trip and it was comforting to know I would be welcome next time round. Well who else is going to drag Frank out for a hike!
I was allowed the luxury of yet another lay-in while Frank and Marcela went into work. Double- checking I had all my documents, I was packed in no time and left the apartment around 3pm, the plan to have a few farewell drinks at Bocca's before catching the Flybussen to Flesland and Bergen Airport. The walk to Sentrum was sombre with light rain and overcast skies. Floyen, our 'Happy' mountain wished me farewell while Ulriken, jealous as ever of her little sister challenged me to take her on again- like a Siren seducing yet another Mariner who had callously lost his way. I would oblige another time but when her mood had been more lightened by the sun... and there were less suiters about!
I arrived at Bocca's glad to put my Pack down. Frank was in full swing behind the bar telling customers there was no cappuccino... because the coffee machine was broken. Not needing to be told twice, I ordered a beer. It was nice to sit down but ever mindful of the clock I couldn't stay too long. My flight was at 18.30pm and the bus would take at least half an hour to get to the Terminal. My 'Achilles' Heel' then became exposed as seeing it was my last day here I asked Frank to make me a 'Killer' Cocktail. He responded with his very own concoction- an 'Apple-Crumble' made with Calvados (Apple Cognac), Lemon Chello (Lemon Liquor), Cinnamon Syrup, Crushed Apples, Apple Juice, Cream and crushed biscuits for garnish. It was so good I had to have another one and then wash that one down with another beer... all the time checking the bar clock, thinking I'll leave and get the bus at 17.30pm... forgetting I should be checking-in at 17.30pm!
This only really dawned on me when I was waiting at the bus-stop which thankfully was only around the corner from the square and a couple of minutes away. The Flybussen arrived around 17.35pm and I was sweating now. I was almost sure I would miss my Flight and would be jumping straight back on again to have some more 'Apple-Crumble'.
We arrived at the Terminal approaching 18.15 and I leapt off the bus like a man-possessed to make a sprint for the check-in desk. I was told "... You are Very Late", and all I could do was apologise with the lady getting immediately on her walkie-talkie to see if there was still time. To my relief- there was and I was probably only saved by having carry-on luggage. The nice young lady then had to run and escort me all the way through customs to speed things up. I had an image of myself boarding the plane with everyone seated and looking at me... myself then having to say sorry after passing each row... but upon arriving at the departure lounge and gate I was relieved to still see about 30 people queuing to board the plane and was saved... and celebrated by treating myself to a much needed trip to the karzee!
If you are ever in Bergen and come across Bocca's- you must try one of Frank's 'Apple-Crumbles'. Just make sure you haven't got a plane to catch! They are that good.
As the Norwegians say in farewell " Hardet-Bra" (...pronounced 'Harda-Bra)... "Have-it Good."
I certainly had it good!
"Thank-you very much..." (For reading my Blog) Ellis-vis has left the Bergen!

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Bergen, Norway

I slept pretty well but knew I was going to be in some discomfort for the rest of the week. Being Monday, Marcela had gone into work as normal with Frank needing to go into Bocca's for a few hours that afternoon. Checking out our '7 Mountains T-Shirts' you could not help but be impressed with the quality and the design which had gone into it's construction. This was proper outdoor gear and not some cheap-printed cotton thing I was expecting... quite snazzy too. Frank agreed he would wear his into work and I concurred knowing full well I would be wearing mine - well I couldn't let him steal all the thunder!
Arranging to meet Frank later, I decided to do some chores and packing. My gore-tex trainers were in a right sorry state and needed cleaning along with the trousers I had been wearing that day. My Travel-pack would also need a trial run to see if everything would fit into it again and I hoped with both my legs shot I would be able to carry it to the Airport without too much difficulty. Satisfied I could do no more with the pack I decided it would be nice if I made dinner for tonight and set about preparing and cooking a Chicken Stir-fry which I had volunteered to do several days before. With this all done it was time to get showered and go out.
I started the hobble into Sentrum around 3.30pm to get there for around Four. It was a killer walking up and down steps. Reaching Bocca's, Frank had finished work and was enjoying a beer with friends on the veranda- T-Shirt on full display! Naturally it wasn't long before I got my one out and seated with beer in hand I was introduced to Alex and his Norwegian girlfriend. Alex works at Bocca's and is a kind of under-study to Frank. Originally from Greece, he has spent some years in the States and you can tell this by his accent and some of the American slang he uses. Alex is quite a likeable guy and after a few more beers was more than willing to give an invaluable insight into the Norwegian persona and mentality. I didn't know this, but until the early 60's Norway was one of the poorest countries in Europe consisting of small rural farming communities, their only natural resource being timber, whereas neighbouring Sweden, which is looked upon as being more refined, had well established industries such as Saab, Volvo, Ericsson and Ikea and also Abba! Norway then hit it big-time in 1962 and struck Oil... and are now one of the richest countries per population with no national debt. Apparently, most of them know they've got it good and couldn't care less.
We stayed at Bocca's till past mid-night with Marcela joining us straight after work, taking loads of pictures to make up for the mountains and having just 'one more' for the road. Guess the road was pretty drunk by the time we left! Well, we had just completed the 7 Mountains Hike and it was time to celebrate.
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Bergen, Norway

The 'Big One'... no visit to Bergen can be fully complete without attempting it and no serious hiking enthusiast will ever live with them-self unless they finish it. 'De Syv Fjells', The Seven Mountains... had been calling me out for sometime and today we would oblige with Marcela joining us at the start of the 4 Mountain Hike.
We arose at 6 a.m having had little sleep. The excitement and anticipation was too much to bear and by the time I could manage to drop off, it was time to get up again. A decent breakfast of soft-boiled eggs and toast with tea was finished-off in relative silence after a quick shower and change into our hiking gear. Frank had wisely prepared sandwiches the night before and these were loaded into our back-packs along with other provisions we hoped would sustain us throughout the day. All set to go we left an hour later hoping the brisk walk into Sentrum would give an adequate warm-up for the hike ahead... thanking the Gods the rain had stayed away.
We needed to get to a place called Marken near the centre of Town where free shuttle buses like the yellow ones you see in American movies were being laid on to ferry a host of participants to the Start point at Gravdal. Arriving there, a small army of 'Spandex and Lycra' had already assembled and were waiting patiently to leave. Taking a deep inhalation through my nostrils, I could already smell the mountains in that queue- and it was intoxicating!
Disembarking the bus, a short walk was still required to reach the official Start Point. I couldn't help commenting to Frank that it was like going to a 'Rave' back in the late 80's early 90's as we and our fellow walkers strode with purpose toward our goal. Arriving there our first priority was to register: The '7 Fjellsturen' (7 Mountain Hike), is a famous annual event being held for the 55th time this year having first been organized in 1948. The Walk is 30km long and has a total ascent of around 2400m. Today, the 'Bergen Turlag' (Bergen Hiking Association) stages the event along with 'Bergens Tidende'- Norway's 4th largest newspaper. Starting Cards are available at the Hiking Club, most Sports Shops and can be brought at Gravdal. When referring to the Seven Mountains Range as a group, you can also include 'Blamanen' and 'Askoyfjellet' as part of your seven... depending upon your allegiances and where you live, but the definition used by the Bergen Hiking Association is 'Lyderhorn', 'Damsgardsfjellet', 'Lovstakken', 'Ulriken' (The highest), 'Floyen', 'Rundemanen' and 'Sandviksfjellet' from start to finish respectively. The 4 Fjellsturen starts at the ascent to Ulriken. Participants Card's must be punched on all Summits and handed in to the 'Secretariat' upon finishing at Marken. Anyone who completes the hike receives an official Diploma and T-Shirt and commemorative plaques are also available to buy ranked by Bronze, Silver, Gold etc. depending upon how many times you have done the hike. Frank and I had to part with 300 Krone (Roughly 30 Squid) for the privilege but you can do the hike on your own for free and at any time. We (probably me slightly more!) ...both wanted the T-Shirt and Diploma, no matter how sad it sounds, as a momento!
Having paid our money and taken the obligatory photo we were good to go and so began our ascent to reach Lyderhorn's crest of 396m at approximately 8a.m using a well tarmac-ed path, switch-backing to gain elevation. With the athleticism of 'Homer' and 'Barney' it wasn't long before we were huffing and puffing and sweating and we had only just begun, but all of a sudden we then hit a 'Bottle-neck' and everything ground to a near halt as a large queue formed with something ahead causing a huge delay. We were literally only ten minutes into the walk and were now queuing to go into a concert! This was really frustrating and lasted for around 45 minutes moving at snail's pace. No one seemed to be complaining so we just had to wait it out. What had happened, the trail ahead had narrowed with a set of timber steps over a water crossing where only one could cross at a time... and this was what was causing the delay as people navigated it with some caution. Leaving that bloody crossing far behind it was time to get going and finally press on with some gusto. The tarmac path had long disappeared as we marched uphill and cross country through boggy grassland whilst bouldering to reach the Summit. I knew this was never going to be easy and with trail conditions not being the best we definitely had a hard task ahead.
We must have reached the Summit of Lyderhorn around 9.30am and were jubilant we had conquered our first peak. Getting our Yellow Cards punched it was time for a brief food stop and intake of the view before pressing on- the time now being an enemy. The descent was a nightmare. The sheer volume of walkers had already churned-up the trail badly and with the previous wet weather you were ankle-deep in mud and were hard-pressed not to fail on your arse. The boggy foothills and grasslands now resembled that of 'Mordor' and we had now transformed ourselves into 'Sam' and 'Frodo' on a quest to destroy the 'One Ring'... The Ring symbolizing our inner demons and turmoil to complete this damn hike.
By the time we reached the ascent of Damsgardsfjellet my legs were already aching. The climb to the 350m Summit I would compare to Grouse Mountain in Vancouver, Canada. Just keep your head down and put one foot in front of the other... one foot in front of the other. The descent was equally precarious to say the least and frustratingly we hit another 15 minute bottle-neck at the base where you cross through Town on your way over to the next mountain. Lovstakken was a supposedly familiar friend but we were approaching from a different trail from the west and the ascent was a long and gradual one. Reaching the Summit around 2p.m the weather was going to turn for the worse and became dull and overcast. Floyen to the north and Ulriken to the east were now partially covered in cloud with alot of moisture in the air.
On the descent, I hit disaster- twisting my right knee quite badly, spraining the ligaments or tendons which made each downward step more painful with bouldering. We reached the rest stop at Arstad videregaende skole... Arstad Upper Secondary School at around 3.30p.m where free soup and fruit cordial was being served. This is also the start of the 4 Mountain Hike and where Marcela met us with some welcome provisions... and we were not even half way yet! With rain imminent I think Marcela made the right decision and chose to opt out and would not have enjoyed it because the conditions would have got worse. I just hoped my Knee would hold out?
Feeling slightly refreshed but sad to see Marcela go it was time to hit Ulriken, normally an alluring temptress but now the sum of all our fears- her Summit well and truly shrouded in mist concealing the 'Fires of Mount Doom'. If anything this ascent and descent would break us. The Summit also offered the highest elevation of 640m. The initial climb was steep and hard but the trail was also wide and with more favorable hard rock. We reached the alpine meadowland to find it covered in fog with visibility up to 20 metres ahead of you. The red and white marker tags staking the trail were also becoming hard to spot as walkers in front disappeared into the mist only to appear later. Ulriken should have offered the most spectacular views of Bergen and the surrounding mountains being the highest peak but sadly our photo opportunities would be denied and non existent. If the previous descents were precarious- Ulriken's was outright treacherous and dangerous. How someone did not break a limb is a miracle. I was in agony too, convinced I would have to abandon the hike or Frank would want to quit once we reached the bottom. At the base however, there was some elation that we had almost surely got over the worst part and although in pain, Floyen couldn't be as bad and we would give it one last big push!
Ascending Floyen was a joy compared to the other mountains thanks to a well surfaced tarmac road that became a equally friendly gravel trail nearer the top to reach the 400m Summit. Not even the rain could dampen our spirits any further and we decided to name Floyen our 'Happy Mountain' although we were both tired and exhausted. We reached the Summit with relative ease and took a brief rest stop at the Upper Station at the top after getting our Cards punched. The weather was miserable and visibility poor but our spirits were raised we have now completed the fifth mountain- only two to go!
The ascent from Floyen to Rundemanen was steep and tiring and only made difficult because we were both exhausted. Having also hiked some of these trails the previous year we knew what to expect and had some appreciation of the view we were missing but the time pressing, our soul focus was now to reach the 560m Summit and get another mountain crossed off. There we had another brief food stop before pressing on immediately because I think if we had stopped for too long, my knee would have seized-up completely- so I just wanted to keep moving.
The hike down to the Summit of Sandviksfjellet at 417m should have been a pleasant stroll and would have commanded a view of the Fjords to the west but it was all now about crossing the finishing line and getting our final Mountain ticked-off. Reaching the Summit you could not help being both overcome with relief and a feeling of euphoria as we realized we had almost done it! There I decided to ask one of the First Aiders to bandage my knee which I hoped would help during the trail down into Town. We had done this route before on our previous hike, following a River gorge, and because of my injury I was not looking forward to it at all.
We finally reached the Trail-end at the base of Sandviksfjellet at 22.00p.m where the Sun had lowered above the Bay of Vagen and was about to set- It seemed a fitting end to our epic trek which we had endured for 14 hours. All that remained was a hobble back into Marken and the Offices of the Bergen Hiking Association to collect our Diplomas and well-earned T-Shirts before heading home to enjoy Marcela's delicious hand-made lasagne and a much needed beer!
Being part of the stragglers, the time we set will probably be laughed at... but there is no greater feeling than having achieved something, not matter how small... and going through the pain barrier, both physical and mental to get there. Would I do the'7 Fjellsturen' ever again? Probably not. Am I glad we took it on... it's got to be a resounding Yes. In all honesty I think I would have regretted not doing it, having visited Bergen, for the rest of my life and equally distraught if I didn't finish it.
I'm going to be walking gingerly for the rest of the week...







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Bergen, Norway

Saturday was always going to be a chill-out day but upon awaking early afternoon to find the sun shining I was more determined than ever to get out for a half decent walk today and stretch the old 'Chicken' legs which was promised earlier in the week. Thankfully, Frank awoke shortly after and agreed that some fresh air and a stroll was needed... and after relaying the previous night's escapades to me which had be innocently misplaced, went to cook another hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs and toast- but more importantly create some 'Holy-Water' in the guise of tea. Today our penance- especially mine, would be a hike up Lovstakken Mountain.
I had already acquainted myself with 'Leaf' Mountain the previous year and knew what to expect having got briefly lost looking for the way up... and briefly lost coming back down again, but with Frank now in tow as expert 'Trail-head Pathfinder'- the start was reached with ease and in minutes, after taking the back-streets located on the foothills behind his and Marcela's apartment. I knew Frank had never been to the top of Lovstakken before and when I asked how far he had actually gone up... he said... " Here, the start..." Frank- I'll have to try and turn you into a hiker yet!
We reached the Summit in around 45 minutes passing plenty of Bergensers and serious walkers out enjoying the day and were rewarded with some great views of the City and the surrounding mountains. After a brief respite it was time to head back down again and I was now able to correct veering off-path towards Damsgardsfjellet which I'm sure impressed Frank (Yeah right!!!) because we needed to descend quickly to catch the local stores and buy food supplies before they shut. This reminded me that the descent is always harder because it is a killer on your knees and ankles and the rest of your legs as you try and maintain footing and decrease speed whilst traversing obstacles and it was pretty obvious I would be aching in the morning.
Back home, Frank set about making his famous Meatballs with Rice and Poppadums while I played DJ again whilst finishing off the last couple of Moscow Mules. With Marcela home and research done on the computer, dinner was enjoyed and it was time to relax and settle down in front of the T.V to watch a movie called 'The Mist' after which an early night at around 12.30am was needed in preparation for the 'Big One' tomorrow.
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Bergen, Norway

Woke up late to find the Weather Gods were smiling again and so a top priority was take a stroll into Town to get some food shopping done for dinner- before they changed their minds! Frank also needed to pop into Bocca's to see the other Manager, so it was decided to have a quick Beer too- well it would have been rude not to... before heading down to the Harbour and Bay of Vagen to take in some of the shops around the old part of Bryggen, the quest to find a Viking Teddy Bear complete with horned helmet for my Mum. Alas no Teddy Bear but a Live Band was playing on stage near the quayside as part of some 'Oi-Oi' Festival along with a Russian Warship docked in Port- their Sailors and Officers unmistakable in uniform crowned by over-sized caps.
With Marcela about to finish work we decided go for a munch and chose the Opera Cafe named after the adjacent Theatre and Opera House taking pride of place at one end of the Town Square. ( Rowley... ) Me and Frank both had Bacon Cheese-burgers with new potatoes and salad while Marcela had the Sole with vegetables. Niiccee. With bellies full and a need of a kip coming on, a quick dash to the supermarket was last on the agenda to get provisions before catching a taxi home.
Once home, Frank's skill and expertise as a Barman came to the fore as he prepared us both a couple of large 'Moscow Mule' Cocktails consisting of a couple of generous- big emphasis on generous... shots of Blue label Smirnoff Vodka, Ginger Ale, Ginger Beer, Lime Cordial, a dash of Bitters and squeeze of lime... while I was DJ on the ipod. Marcela, very wisely refrained because she had work in the morning and a huge Stock-take to undergo!
Three large Moscow Mules later... it was time to hit the Town again and a mad dash for the 23.00pm Bus which was being held at the stop started our journey back into Sentrum. A new Bar called 'Jacob All' had recently opened inside the Exhibition Centre Building and Frank wanted to check out the competition. I was certainly impressed by the layout although the Bar and Restaurant area inside was pretty much uninhabited by patrons whose ears had not yet heard of this venue. One recognizable figure however was Sam from Stevenage, a lone figure spinning discs by the glass doors leading to the outside seating area. This is where the Bar has huge potential and will be a hit once word gets round because the outside layout is massive compared to Bocca's and nearly four times the size with a sheltered and open area complete with it's very own small horse-shoe shaped Bar.
We were soon seated beside friends of Frank who were also checking out the Bar, a guy called Gat (Gert), another DJ who works at Bocca's with several pals and later Erik a friend of Marcela whom I met on my last visit, who also shares the same Birthday as me but did not remember our meeting, but is unforgettable because he talks with a Scottish accent when speaking English having spent some time living there. Funnily enough, his Norwegian girlfriend also spoke English with a semi-posh English accent having lived and worked here too and I would have mistaken her for one of us if not being told!
Going back inside I made it clear to Sam that he was being wasted at his current location and should be DJ-ing outside where he would be more appreciated and increase atmosphere... which he definitely took on board because 10 minutes later he told me... "Mick, I've had a word with the Manager and asked to be outside next time."
Having had a couple of Beers it was time to move on and the next stop was Metro a more robust Bar/Club which was practically deserted, so after swiftly necking our Beer we moved straight onto Contra's situated below the Norge Hotel at one side of the Town square where we had another Beer and a 'Little Fella' before heading across to Felize Nightclub below Bocca's.
This is where everything becomes a huge blur! Almost immediately inside, a girl called Katrina and nick-named Kattie, who works at Bocca's, brought us both a Beer and a Shot and then another friend of Frank's called Kristian got us a couple of Vodka & Cranberries. Needing a trip to the loo and a 'Peer through the Mesh' I was then apparently escorted outside by Security for being too 'sober.' Once outside I promptly phoned Frank... who promptly escorted me back in again... and after 30 minutes had to promptly escort me back out again! Well that's definitely not the first time and it will definitely not be be the last!






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Bergen, Norway

Touching down at Bergen Airport at around 23:10pm on Tuesday night after an uneventful flight I received a phone call to catch the Flybussen- Airport Bus, into Sentrum where I would meet Frank in the City Centre in 30 minutes. Exiting the main terminal building I immediately came across a Bus Driver puffing heavily on a cigarette and was relieved to have found the correct place almost immediately and his bus would be the one I needed to take into town. Thankfully most Norwegians speak English and are not too unsympathetic to tourists who cannot speak their language!
Once in Town the first stop was Bocca's, Frank's place of work, to drop off my travel-pack which would be stored safely in the office until later... and to have a couple of welcoming beers. The Bar was not busy taking into account the time, but with the smoking ban reaching Norway as well, the outside balcony and veranda which overlooks the main square was in good use with people enjoying a smoke with their drinks under the lovely glow of heat lamps strategically positioned along the full length of the canopy.
It was then that Andreas phoned inquiring where we were, so finishing our drinks swiftly we headed off to Bar Vamoose where he was well into celebrating his 27th Birthday. Andreas is a chef and a good pal of Frank and having first met him during my previous trip I've found him to be a very likeable character and funny guy- not too tall but stocky and squared jawed almost epitomizing a viking warrior minus the huge beard and horned helmet!
Taking up a strategic position at the end of the Bar, Dave the Manager originally from Wales commented we had formed a corner of 'Little Britain' after being joined by Sam from Stevenage, a young DJ also working and plying his trade in Bergen and it wasn't long before shots of Jaiger Meister which Frank calls 'Little fellas' were being downed... sending the remainder of the night into oblivion. Well, when in Rome...


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Bergen, Norway

Okay granted it's Thursday, but that's the tune I'm listening to as I type this. I was a lazy buzzard today and did not venture out at all. It's seems Sligo's 'El Nino' has followed me to Bergen, Lisa, and permanently set up shop for the day, conspiring with strange forces to prevent me from attending the Pub. Frank tells me, Bergen is Europe's wettest City receiving the most annual rainfall and last year it chucked down consecutively for 88 days- two off the record I might add! Most Norwegians take this all in their stride... along with the price of Beer!
So today, my best friend was Frank & Marcela's sofa with the T.V for company. Later Frank had to go to work, so me and Marcela just chilled out at home watching the movie 'The Strangers' on dvd after ordering Pizza, Rowley, for dinner... I know I'm on holiday but I must get into the mountains soon!
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Bergen, Norway

My fellow 'Trekkies', Spock included, will be appalled that we did not wake up till 16.40pm this afternoon due to the previous night's shenanigans but all I can do is keep telling myself I'm on holiday- so it's allowed, just!
We finally ventured out around 8.30pm from the Bastion that is 'Frank & Marcela's Place' to go into town and catch a movie. Wolverine and Xmen Origins was high on the cards but arriving at the theatre which was packed we had to settle for a poor second best- Star Trek... hence the title! Great movie and Zachary Quinto looks uncannily like you Martin- 'Live long & prosper' son!
After the pictures we made a quick stop at Bocca's to see katherine who works with Frank and then onto 'Lille', another Bar/Club to do some more people watching where we were accosted by local Norwegian native who was off his head and eager for conversation relaying his previous visit to London. A couple of drinks later we were in 'Pacific' another Bar near the Port and main harbour, to meet up with Marcela who was enjoying Salsa night. There we stayed till it closed before home into the early hours, quite merry, to enjoy Frank's Red Pepper Chicken Curry he had prepared earlier.


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