TravelStream™ news feed for member mearal01 on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/mearal01 en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sun, 12 Nov 2006 04:33:17 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1148455020/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1148455020/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1148455020/tpod.html Sun, 12 Nov 2006 04:33:17 -0500 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Hirakata, Japan

Time moved faster as the days grew warmer and all too suddenly the semester was at an end. Graduation came on May 19th, a day that dawned cloudy. Weighing in a full 15 kilograms lighter then when I arrived, I was able to fit into formal wear purchased entirely in Japan. It was snazzy, but a downpour on the way to school left me drenched throughout the ceremony which included School president Tanimoto and the US consular general to Japan as speakers. The speeches had a common theme; we were encouraged to keep our ties with Japan even after we left. Left... this would have been depressing for me if not for the tiny sticker in my passport that I had acquired several weeks earlier: a re-entry permit. The knowledge that I had been accepted for a second semester of study and would return in August kept me cheery.

After the ceremony I ate to the point of discomfort at a fantastic luncheon. Following the gorging came bowling with Japanese and Foreign friends (not an easy task on a full stomach). Next? Nothing better to follow a free all-you-can-eat feast than one you pay for. Years of food abuse in America had trained me well for that day, when I truly tested the limits of consumption. We ate at a traditional Japanese restaurant where we were served course after course for an hour and a half. With day turned to night we set out for karaoke. My comrades planned to sing until sunrise but I opted for just one hour. I made the best of my hour though, pouring as many of the free drinks as I could onto of the mass of food in my stomach. The buses had stopped running by time I set off for home and halfway through the 45 minute walk I came to regret my monumental fluid intake. The Japanese are actually loser about urination in public that we are in America. Perhaps I should have taken advantage of this, but I chose to suffer bladder damage instead.

The last few days in Japan were somewhat emotional. I would be back, but it was likely that I would never again see many of the foreign friends I had made. Talking with exchange students from all over the world had indeed been an enjoyable bonus that semester. May 24th arrived and I found myself back at Kansai international airport. Because I had a re-entry permit and would retain my Alien Registration Card my emigration procedures were like those of Japanese, writing my home address (in Japan) and reason for "visit" to the US. When presenting my paperwork at the emigration desk, the woman spoke in English until noticing my status. At that point a surprised smile spread across her face and she made a jump in logic, switching to very fast Japanese. I missed most of what the woman said but doing as the Japanese would do I smiled and nodded. Then I left with my heart not heavy, but warm. In my moment of departure I had been made to feel incredibly welcome, and rather Japanese.

It had been the best spring of my life thus far. All of my expectation had been met and surpassed. Never before had I led such a healthy lifestyle. Never before had I explored so many new things or seen so much beauty. The person in me who had studied Japan with such enthusiasm in High School had begun to fall asleep in College. Finally making it to Japan had reawakened this part of me. I had never been so awake. My spring in Kansai had ended, but it was just the beginning.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146733260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146733260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146733260/tpod.html Tue, 26 Sep 2006 05:45:50 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Kyoto, Japan

The bus had defeated Xiaomei, Mark and I on our first trip to Kyoto together, preventing us from getting to Nijo-jo, the Second Street Castle. We vowed to return though, and return we did less than a week later. Again, we purchased all-day bus passes. It was Golden Week, a week of national holidays in which many people have off from work and school. The city was bustling with sightseers and after spending 45 minutes waiting for the right bus, we rethought our strategy. We would not let the bus foul our plans again. The passes, not activated until their first use, could be saved for another outing. We took Kyoto's high-tech subway instead, and arrived at our target destination in no time.

Packed right in the middle of urban Kyoto, Nijo-jo was built by the first Tokugawa shogun as a place to reside when he was visiting the city. It bears little resemblance to castles like the one I visited at Himeji, which was designed to defend an entire valley. Comparatively tiny Nijo-jo had only to defend the master the dwelt within. It is not so much a fortification as it is a palace. This means that dissimilar to utilitarian strongholds like Himeji-jo, Nijo-jo is very ornate. Tokugawa Ieyasu commissioned the top artisans of the day to make his Kyoto digs special. Entrances are adorned with amazingly intricate carvings of intertwining birds and flowers. Beautiful pine and bamboo landscapes complete with tigers and panthers are painted on the inner walls. Even the ceilings are graced with intricate gilded designs.

Nijo-jo is certainly not without its security measures. A moat and walls surround the entire rectangular shaped compound. The palace sits within a second set of walls. In the event of an assault, the shogun could be moved to a more heavily fortified island created by a second moat next to the palace. A conventional military attack on the shogun within the emperor's hometown would have been highly unlikely though. The use of stealthy ninja might have been a more likely and Tokugawa was aware of this. Without doubt, Nijo-jo's most interesting security feature is its "Nightingale Floor." The floor in the palace was designed so that even the slowest treading of padded ninja feet would cause the boards to squeak. I don't know if this would have been more effective than using Akita, which was originally bread to roam palaces at night and detect ninja. But, such an extravagant floor concurs with the rest of the lavish palace. It was certainly interesting to hear what sounded like a flock of birds as we padded through shoeless with the other sightseers.

After lingering at Nijo-jo for a time, we set off for something new. It was a beautiful day, and shunning public transportation all together, we trekked through Kyoto's commercial center on foot. Late in the afternoon we reached Heian-jingu, a relatively new shrine built in 1895 to commemorate Kyoto's 1,100th birthday. With its vast open courtyard and bright orange paint, It reminded me of the Forbidden City in China. I would later learn that my association had some validity. Heian-jingu is a 2/3 scale reproduction of Kyoto's original imperial palace, which drew inspiration from Beijing's. The gardens set behind the shrine are supposedly some of the best, but it was too close to closing time to go in. Rather, we poked around at some vendor stalls outside the main entrance; then got vanilla green tea swirl soft serve ice-cream cones across the street.

Feeling tired, we headed for home after the ice-cream. The mood was slightly melancholy as we took our last look around Kyoto's cityscape before descending the stairs into the subterranean train station. It was the last time we would see the city that semester. Watching the sunset on the ride back we did not talk much. We were livelier as we made the walk from the station to our dorms however. Mark and I came up with all kinds of questions for Xiaomei concerning her home. This prompted her to come up with an interesting proposition- why not visit her in Taiwan and experience it first hand. Mark and I agreed that this would have to be done.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146686220/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146686220/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146686220/tpod.html Thu, 03 Aug 2006 16:24:53 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Hirakata/Takarazuka/Kuzaha, Japan

By now I've no doubt made it clear that there are lots of things to do on a sunny day in Japan. But the spring is the rainy season in the Kansai area, so what do you do when it's wet outside? In this entry I will make mention of some activities that never made it into their own post. All are indoor activities and though the weather happened to be nice when I did most of them, they would be good on a rainy day.

Fifty years ago, it was common to find guitar players in bars who would take a small fee to play any popular song to sing along too. This form of entertainment inspired the electronic version; know as "empty orchestra," or karaoke. Karaoke is huge in Japan. I know a girl who goes at least three times a week! Every city has many karaoke centers where you rent a private room and can sing for hours, usually with unlimited drink refills. These giant buildings are open 24 hours a day; my first time was at 1pm! You don't have to know lyrics by heart; you just follow the subtitles which appear below a music video displayed on a large TV. If it is not a Japanese song, the music video is never the one you might have seen on MTV, it's a random montage picturing white people strolling on the beach or riding bikes. Only on the newest songs does the music sound like what you're used to (minus good singing), rather it tends to be a crappy, synthesized version. Karaoke was more fun than I thought it would be, but also harder and more embarrassing. Sadly, it killed a profession. There are only two guitar bar players left in all of Tokyo.

Of course there is always social dinning. I earlier mentioned my enjoyment with eating out in Japan, where there seems to be more restaurant styles. One such style is conveyor belt sushi. Early in the year I ate at the local Kappa Sushi, a chain of this type. There, one sits at a booth and watches as plates of varying kinds of sushi roll past on a long conveyor belt. When you see a kind you want, just snatch it off. Want more tea? There is a hot tea dispenser built into the table. Are the other tables grabbing your favorites before they reach you? Not a problem. Just hit the intercom above your both and place your order. The kitchen will send out your request on a numbered plate that no one else will touch. There are also plates with deserts and juice boxes on them. When you're done, a waitress will count your plates and bill you accordingly. It's a fun eating experience that may not be cheap, but costs far less than a traditional sushi restaurant. Besides, it's not everywhere that you can find corn and mayo sushi!

Not all social eating has to be done at a restaurant though. The Japanese also enjoy entertaining in their home. Toward the end of the semester I was one in a group of Aaron's friends that was invited over for dinner by his host parents. We all brought gifts, as is the custom. Mine was a potted plant, which paled in comparison to Jessica's wine, or Mark's maple candies and maple syrup from Vermont (Mark carries a seemingly endless supply of Vermont maple syrup in his backpack at all times, and hands them out to Japanese people he liked, I'm not joking.) Aaron's host parents welcomed us graciously and provided an all out feast that lasted many hours. Afterward, we lounged around watching kick-boxing on TV. Aaron's father follows kick-boxing closely, but he had drunk nearly a dozen cans of beer, and fell asleep on my shoulder. All in all, it was a wonderful night with lots of great home-cooked food and no English conversation whatsoever.

And away from food- Japan has three traditional styles of theater of international renown. In No theater, actors ware masks and move in a slow deliberate manor to the accompaniment of wood block clapping and chanting. Very ancient Shinto tales are common. Plays often last as long as four hours, and many consider it to be the most boring form. Kabuki on the other hand is very exciting. Actors paint their faces and move in an exaggerated and often acrobatic way. The sets are elaborate, with trap doors and wires that actors are sometimes suspended from. These tend to be comedies. Then there is Bunraku- The often tragic Puppet Theater. Each puppet is manipulated by not one but three master puppeteers so that the movements are so human-like that it is down right creepy. All three forms are highly stylized and symbolic. I have yet to see any of them, but I did see a modern, Western style play performed by what may be the most famous troupe in Japan: Takarazuka.

The play was a tragic romance in the frenzied setting of the Spanish revolution. Neither my knowledge of history nor my plot summery written in English did anything to curb my profound confusion. The most interesting thing about the Takarazuka is that all the players are female. Those who specialize in the male roles are most famous, and have a huge following of mostly female fans. Their characters are always chivalrous, romantic and have a decidedly softer side which leave woman swooning. The fans say that these women become the ideal man with none of the harsher qualities. You may be wondering what is with Japanese women, are the men of the country really that bad? Well, as it turned out, foreign woman are not immune to the phenomenon. The two female, American friends that I sat with became quite obsessed with the "male" lead, and bought lots of her pictures of her after the show. Interestingly enough, the male players are said to make the best wives when they retire, since they can better relate to hassles their husbands put up with, such as wearing suit jackets and neck ties...

And finally, there is bathing. Japanese love to bath in scalding hot water, and most do so at home every night. The Japanese islands are volcanic, so there are hot springs all over. Going to bathe in scenic hot springs, or onsen, has been a favorite past-time for thousands of years. I didn't make it to a real onsen but Mark and I did visit the artificial indoor version, called sento. When you enter, you can buy things like soap and towels out of a vending machine (you must wash before entering the baths!) Inside the main area, sento are similar to Turkish baths, and also have hot-tubs bubbling with water that has had things added to it like herbs or alcohol. We tried an electric bath, which made all you tingle all over. After moving my arm too close to one of the poles, it started twitching and I was done. After heating up to the point of dizziness, the best part was going outside to cool off. It actually was raining on that day, and I was thankful. The cold rain cooled us down much faster than hot sun would, and felt wonderful. After two hours, I had sweated off six pounds.

The Sento was a fun experience, but not something I could see myself doing all too often. Onsen and sento are classic spots for yakuza, the Japanese mafia, to hang out. Yakuza members usually have full body tattoos, and most bathing establishments won't let you in if you have any tattoos whatsoever. Because of this, Mark and I were a little shocked to step into a changing room filled with men who had dragons and demons all up and down their bodies. Our sento was likely yakuza owned. They never said anything to us, but some of the glances were intimidating. I think we will try a different place next time.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146422760/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146422760/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1146422760/tpod.html Thu, 22 Jun 2006 15:45:16 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Kyoto, Japan

Kyoto is so packed with ancient attractions that it would be almost impossible to see them all. But living in such close proximity as I am, it seems worth a try. We had not visited in nearly 2 months, so Mark and I decided it was high time to continue our exploration of the old capital. This time, we decided to invite a fellow student from Taiwan named Xiaomei. Though I have reason to believe her English is good, she does not share this opinion and therefore speaks to us only in Japanese. Mark and I have no problems with this, of course. Speaking in Japanese with someone who knows it as a second language is sometimes easier, since they often have a better sense of what is difficult and what is not. Additionally, the Japanese students I am friends with want to practice their English, so it is rare to have a conversation only in Japanese. With Xiaomei however, less than 1% of the words that come out of my mouth are English!

Xiaomei nearly missed the bus to Hirakata station, foreshadowing the troubles that awaited us. We had no firm plans for Kyoto, we just knew we wanted to see some new sights. Arriving at bustling Sanjo station, we bought all-day bus passes figuring that would be the cheapest and easiest way to move around the city and see as much as we had time for. Unfortunately the workings of the bus system turned out to be a little beyond our ken. After far more riding than was necessary (we went the considerably longer direction in a loop), we got off near Kinkakuji, the famous "Golden Pavilion." Built as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu in 1397, the upper two stories were completely coated in gold leaf. As per Yoshimitsu's wishes it was converted into a Buddhist temple at his death. Though Kinkakuji survived several wars and earthquakes throughout the centuries, it did not survive a fire set by a mentally unstable monk in 1950. An exact replica was built five years later and is one of the top tourist attritions in the country.

The pavilion was stunning viewed from across a serene pond, which reflected its golden form in the water on that bright sunny day. Everyone was taking turns snapping pictures in places that offered a nice view. Oddly enough, the grounds were busy but not mobbed, so taking lots of photos in the prime spots was relatively easy. We then took a trail that snaked behind the golden structure and up a hill, passing by another pond and a waterfall. There is no doubt that the gold pavilion itself was more impressive than the silver pavilion. The nature surrounding Kinkakuji was nicer than I had expected too, and hardly lags behind its sister site. At the end of our stroll, we tried a free sample of an insalubrious tea with gold floating in it. To get the taste out of our mouths, we got vanilla green tea swirl soft serve ice-cream cones. Those who know me know I hate cones, but these were fantastic! I had two.

After leaving Kinkakuji we decided we would head to the second-street-castle: Nijo-jo. On the way (we thought we were on the way but I think we were actually headed in the opposite direction), we got off the bus for a quick stop at the Imperial Park. An expansive park in it the middle of Kyoto, it contains the Emperor's old palace. Though Emperors have resided in Tokyo since 1868, the coronation ceremony is still conducted in Kyoto. Permission from the Imperial Household Agency is required to enter, so we just milled about and viewed the never-ending walls of the complex from outside. Xiaomei also managed to convince a guard that she was Japanese; Mark and I were envious. Back on the bus we learned that we were headed to the wrong end of the city. We transferred, several times, and with the sun setting and 5pm quickly approaching, had to call off the visit to Nijo-jo. It is good that we had all-day passes lest we would have spent a fortune going back and forth on the incorrect routes all day. The system had defeated us and the historic sites were all closing, but the night was young.

We walked the busy downtown shopping streets near Sanjo station which were beginning to turn on their neons and growing crowded with teens off from school. These streets were wider than those in Namba but more intimate than Tokyo, and reminded me vaguely of Ocean City, New Jersey for some nonsensical reason. We stopped in at an eatery where we picked our food at a ticket machine, then handed the chef our tags. Mark cobbled together a vegetarian meal out of side-dishes while Xiaomei and I had spicy Korean chicken on rice. After dinner we engaged in Purikuri, the act of entering a large photo both and having multiple pictures taken to thump of loud J-pop music. We got to decorate the pictures with sparkles and flowers and writing on a touch screen computer before the strips were shat out. It was all very cutesy and very Japanese. Lastly, we bought juice and headed down to sit by the riverside.

Sitting by the edge of the concrete hardened channel we played Japanese and Taiwanese hand games and talked for several hours. We decided that before semester's end sent us in our different directions we would return to Kyoto together. The busses would be mastered and the Nijo castle would be located and breached. As the moon rose above us and danced in the dark waters below, Xiaomei sang us a song of friendship in Chinese. It was the perfect ending to a great day. Not only did I get more Japanese practice than I usually do in a week, I learned a lot about Taiwan. It was truly a day of cultural diffusion. Even more importantly, Mark and I had made a new friend.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1145233500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1145233500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1145233500/tpod.html Sun, 04 Jun 2006 21:58:14 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Yamashita/Osaka, Japan

Early April is a very special time of the year in the Land of the Rising Sun. Cherry trees begin to bloom, staring in the south, and working their way up north until Hokkaido finally sees the blossoms in May. These particular blossoms have a deep cultural relevance for Japan. The flowers of the tree are very beautiful, but very short-lived. From the time they bloom, to the time they blow away in the wind, little more than a week passes. They came to symbolize life in the Samurai philosophy; something that is beautiful, but impermanent, fleeting and unpredictable. Just as a strong gust of wind can blow the petals from their branch at any time, the Samurai never knew when he would fall in battle. They lived with deep appreciation for life and utmost readiness for death. Mujou is a Japanese word that sums up this cheery blossom outlook on life. Translating roughly to "bitter-sweet transience of all things," mujou has been called Japan's true heart.

Hanami: which means "flower-viewing," is popular in Japan, and no more so than when the flowers are Sakura (cherry). Parks and other locals with lots of cherry trees fill with people on the high-bloom weekend and weekday afternoons. TV and internet weather forecasts are supplemented with blossom forecasts. It might seem like sakura viewing would be a solemn and contemplative occasion, but that is far from the case. While everyone is aware of the cherry blossom's symbolism, hanami is a fun and festive time these days. It's a time to get back to nature and enjoy the out of doors. It's a time to have a picnic with the family. It's a time to fill up your cell phone with pictures. It's an excuse to sit under a tree and appreciate a bottle of wine.

While Himeji was an excellent place for flower-viewing, I was a bit preoccupied with castle-viewing. Naturally I had to supplement with more hanami expeditions. A few stops down toward Kyoto is Yamashita, a local favorite for sakura. Getting off at the station, the location of the famous trees was not immediately apparent. There were no signs to point the way, but it turned out to be an easy find. A massive procession of people with blankets and picnic baskets snaked off in the direction of the river. On the opposite bank was a row of cherry trees stretching off to disappear in sunny haze. Under the sakura and beside the water were thousands of people playing Frisbee, grilling fish and getting drunk. One often hears that Japanese men have little time to spend with wives and children. Days like these are exceptions. Everywhere I saw fathers wrestling with laughing kids, or cuddling with wives while the young raced about. The atmosphere was one of complete relaxation.

The next weekend I had a very different kind of hanami experience. Zoheikyoku is the Japan's mint, located in Osaka. The mint grounds were previously owned by a rich sakura connoisseur who collected and breeder over 100 different variants of the tree. The mint has maintained his collection, and opens its heavily guarded gates for one week a year to let the public in for a view of the trees in bloom. There was no food or drink allowed inside though, and there would be no place to enjoy it anyway. Not far past the gates, I found myself in a slow moving river of humans, a pilgrimage. I have been in some amazingly crowded situations in Japan, but at Zoheikyoku I found a new definition of the word crowd. This was nothing like the relaxed lounging at Yamashita, and unfortunately many of the sakura variants were already past the height of bloom. Nonetheless, I got to see beautiful types I never knew existed, and learned that indeed I am not claustrophobic or crowd shy (or I would have gone insane).

Within another week, the blossoms were gone, replaced by budding leaves. The magic feeling that pulsed through the Kansai region moved north and things returned to normal. I was sad to see the season was over already, but that is the way of things, that is mujou. Weather or not mujou is the heart of Japan, I don't know. The care-free enthusiasm of the Japanese as they head out to enjoy spring together shows a different heart to me. But whatever it symbolizes, sakura is very important to Japan, and will always remind me of my fun but fleeting spring in Kansai.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1144599780/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1144599780/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1144599780/tpod.html Wed, 31 May 2006 15:40:21 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Himeji, Japan

Before coming to Japan, I considered what I most wanted to see. The problem was that with so many amazing places, I had trouble picking favorites. Eventually I realized that I could not single out any particular list of locales as more important than others and would simply have to see as much as possible. So I left America with a broad goal but no specific musts. No specific musts but one: Himeji-jo. Impressive castles influenced by European fortress designs sprang up in almost every major Japanese town between the late 16th and early 17th centuries. The last 400 years have not been kind to Japan's castles though, many being claimed by earthquakes, fires and WWII air raids. Some have been rebuilt as tourist attractions, but Himeji-jo's structures are all original. It is the best preserved full-size castle in all of Japan and often considered the most beautiful and unique.

I decided that I wanted to view my castle while the cherry trees that fill its grounds were in the height of bloom, and that's just what I did! This means I saw the castle at its most beautiful, but also it's most crowded! Special express trains bound for the city of Himeji were leaving Osaka ever 20 minutes that Sunday. For the first time I experienced a delay at the station, and when the train finally arrived it filled to busting before I could board! At this point I was at the head of the line and should have waited for the next express train, but impulsively got on a slower one that arrived a few minutes later. Big mistake! The ride to Himeji city was painfully slow, and it was nearly two hours before I made out the top of the castle's keep raising above the city skyscrapers. A wide avenue leads from the train station to the castle, and as I advanced my goal was visible, looming ahead the whole time.

Himeji-jo sits upon a steep hill, and can be seen clearly from anywhere within the valley. Naturally, it was once of great strategic importance. A wooden fort hardened the hill from the 14th century on. Toyatomi Hideyoshi, second of Japan's three great unifiers, built a castle there in 1580, but it was the first Tokugawa Shogun's son-in-law who expanded Himeji-jo to its current state in 1609. The final incarnation of the castle is one of the most impregnable citadels ever constructed with layer after layer of defense. There is an impressive network of walls, guard towers and barracks that surround the inner keep like a maze, designed to confuse storming armies and expose them to fire from all angles. There are numerous heavy gates one must pass through on their approach, and some lead to nowhere while the real ones are small and hidden. The main keep towers above it all, sitting upon a massive stone base that is several stories tall. Around the base of the keep are multiple wells of surprising depth and storerooms to keep the castle well supplied for months in the event of a long siege.

The long climb up this heavily fortified hill was just as impressive as getting to go into the giant keep itself. Inside it was cool and dark like a cave, the only light coming through the windows. The polished wooden floor felt good on my shoeless feet. Naturally, everyone had to take their shoes off before entering the keep. The problem was that there was no place to store the hundreds of shoes. It was a strange to be in an old castle jammed with tourists who were all carrying rustling plastic bags filled with their shoes. I must note that Hemeiji-jo is not handicap friendly. Since there are not even electric lights, there certainly is no elevator. The stairs are rather more like ladders and with one hand on your shoe-bag, you only have one to spare for the railings. It is a testament to the health of Japan's elderly that I saw so many making their way up through the keep!

The keep is six-stories high, and the lower stories are cavernous, with high ceilings. There are elevated walkways from which musketeers and archers could fire from the high barred windows. Secret compartments make use of what would otherwise be wasted space in the eves, and were designed to hide samurai who could ambush those who made it inside. Original spears and muskets hang from weapon racks on the walls and several of Japan's finest katana (samurai swords) are on display in glass cases. Also in cases are other interesting artifacts, such as the original blueprints for the castle. Massive wooden beams hold the structure together, and though the architecture is stark and purely military, it is quite beautiful. Beautiful too is the view as one climbs higher and higher. From the highest story, a small room where wind whistles through the open windows, I could see all across the valley. It was an excellent vantage point from which to view the sprawling defenses and the cherry trees.

This was a trip I was very excited to take, and I am glad to report that Himeji-jo lived up to expectations. It is in no way ornate, but architecturally it is probably the most impressive structure I have yet visited in Japan. The castle has been nicknamed "The White Heron," due to its elegant appearance and the white fire-resistant plaster it was coated in. It is amazing how something that was built to be purely functional can be so striking. The cherry trees blooming everywhere greatly added to this effect, giving the impression that I were not in an old fortress, but rather at some kind of garden. It is ironic that this fearsome military installation that excelled at keeping people out is now a prime tourist attraction overrun by millions every year. Indeed much has changed in the past 400 years; Himeji-jo no longer provides protection for those who live below, where a modern city of half a million has grown. But some things have not changed. None of the new office buildings can match the height of The White Heron, which perches high on its hill like a sentinel, just as impressive now as in times past.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1143877320/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1143877320/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1143877320/tpod.html Sun, 07 May 2006 06:11:37 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Hiroshima, Japan

Shinkansen, or what Americans call "bullet trains," are a supreme symbol of Japan's economic and technological success. I never dreamed I would have reason to take one, but when Mark and I accompanied Aaron and his class on a special day trip, such a mode of transportation was required. We rode in a 700 series, the newest generation of Shinkansen that just entered service in 1999. Each 16 car train has a price tag of 34 million US dollars and is capable of pushing 400 km/h (249 mph) in test runs. The operational speed limit for all Shinkansen is 300 km/h (186mph), which we reached on our trip. It was not cheap, more than a domestic flight costs. But, without all of the time wasted at the airport, the Shinkansen is actually faster than flying. It is also quieter, steadier and more comfortable than a plane. For these reasons, 340,000 people use the Shinkansen each day. Not everyone one is a fan though; 50 thousands homes were condemned during construction of the lines and 150,000 people still suffer from terrible noise pollution everyday.

The time spent on the Shinkansen passed very quickly, as we made busy shuffling to share the window seat and take videos of the landscape rushing by. What would have been at least 6 hours by conventional train took us just over 1. In no time we were pulling into Hiroshima station. Aaron's class had come here to have a very special meeting with a woman named Yamaoka Michiko, who had been in the city on August 6th, 1945. The talk was held in a conference room in the basement of the Hiroshima Peace Museum. Having almost two hours to spare, we three boys decided to go by foot. We got a little lost on our walk and arriving too late to have lunch or look around the museum first, we headed straight down to the basement. Michiko was already seated at a table in the front of the room. She seemed rather jovial, and I remember thinking she looked good for 71. I would soon find that she looks good not just for her age... Once the rest of the class had trickled in the tale began.

During the final months of the war, the citizens of Hiroshima had grown accustomed to the wail of air-raid sirens; swarms of B-29s constantly filled the skies. The bombers always passed on though, headed to raze other cites up and down the island. It started to seem that Hiroshima would be spared. But the US Army had developed something new and they wanted to test it out on a real city. While almost every major Japanese city lay in ash, Hiroshima was a virgin target. Thus, it would yield the clearest results during damage analysis and send a stronger message to both the Soviet Union and the crumbled Japanese Empire. Having a clear view of the event was a must, so three other untouched cities: Kokura, Niigata and Nagasaki were chosen as backup targets incase the weather was bad. But when the sun rose over Hiroshima on August 15th, there was not a single cloud in the sky.

For some reason, 15 year old Michiko felt reluctant to leave home that morning. Perhaps it was just fatigue. She lived alone with her mother (her father had died when she was 3) and they were running out of things to trade for food. Additionally, the air-raid sirens had kept them up late the night before. Nonetheless, she waved goodbye and set out toward the center of the city at 8:00am. Michiko was not going to school though; she was headed to work at the Central Telephone Office. Like most students, she had been mobilized for the war effort. It was a beautiful day though, and her gaze was drawn up toward the clear blue sky where she noticed a single B-29. She thought it odd that the siren had not sounded, but then again B-29s always raided in swarms, what could one plane do? The time was 8:15am. It seemed to Michiko that a photograph flash had gone off, only it didn't fade. Michiko's cloths burst into flames and her skin began to boil, but all she remembers is the feeling that her face were inflating like a balloon. Then the shockwave blew her back through the air and into unconsciousness.

When Michiko woke, her neck was broken and she was buried in the remains of a building. She could make out muffled screams, and soon the crackle of fire. Suddenly, Michiko heard someone calling her name: it was her mother, who had come looking for her as soon as blast faded. She called back, each yell taking considerable effort. Her mother eventually heard the cries and spotted Michko's legs sticking out of the rubble. Her mother tried to get other survivors to help, but fire was spreading fast and everyone told her it was useless. Michiko prepared die. Michiko's mother would not give up though, and succeeded in digging her daughter out single handedly before the fire could consume them. Michiko was in bad shape. She looked down and what she first thought to be her cloths hanging off in rages turned out to be her skin. When Michiko looked around, she saw a hellish scene of black sky, ragging firestorms and mutilated human forms walking like zombies. She wondered what could have done this to Hiroshima.

The cause was a single bomb nicknamed "Little Boy." 580 meters above the city Little Boy's fuse triggered a gunpowder explosion that thrust a 25kg hunk of Uranium 235 into another of equal mass. In the resulting impact, about 1kg of the Uranium underwent nuclear fission, releasing an amount of energy equivalent to 15,000 tons of detonating TNT. In a matter of seconds, 92% of Hiroshima's buildings were destroyed and 80,000 lives snuffed out. 20,000 more died before nightfall. Radiation sickness and other injuries claimed another 40,000 lives by the end of the summer, and yet another 60,000 over the next decade or so. Added to Hiroshima's 200,000 dead are another 100,000 from Nagasaki, where the US Army felt the need to test an Atomic bomb of differing design 3 days later.

Like so many others who survived the Atomic bombings, Michiko was left with terrible physical and spiritual damage. The shockwave had deafened her right ear. Her neck had set wrong and was crooked. The fingers of the hand she had used to shield herself with were fused together. Keloids sprouted in the place of her burns, severely disfiguring her face and much of her body. She withdrew from the world and feels certain that she would have committed suicide if not for her mother's love. Initially, her anger was toward America. This changed in 1955, when she was invited to The US to undergo free treatment. She had 27 reconstructive surgeries and the kindness of the Americans she met changed her point of view. She redirected her hatred toward nuclear weapons and the act of war. In 1975, Michiko's mother died at the age of 103. Though she had never complained of any pain, they found shards of glass mixed in with her ashes after cremation. Michiko wanted to honor the brave woman who had kept her alive both on that fateful day and during the years of slow and painful recovery. It was then that she dedicated her life to peace.

After the talk we explored the museum where I was greatly affected by pictures drawn by survivors. Last, we visited the Hiroshima's most famous building. Once the most magnificent building in the city, its hollowed ghost stands preserved as a memorial simply know as the "A-Bomb Dome". The day was grey, and I was weak from lack of food and water, but this felt only appropriate given what I bore witness to. Despite cancer, weakened bone structure, complications wither her internal organs and the emotional pain caused by reliving her memories, Michiko has told her story to everyone who will listen for the past 3 decades since her mothers passing. I was honored to be one among the thousands who have heard her very personal message. It is a simple message, one that reminds us that nuclear weapons must never again be used. The fusion bombs developed in the 1960's are thousands of times more powerful than the fission bombs that destroyed Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and are a threat to all life on earth. Although disarmament has significantly reduced the number of nuclear weapons, the fight is far from over.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1143189060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1143189060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1143189060/tpod.html Sat, 29 Apr 2006 05:15:15 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Tokyo, Japan

After a full night of sleep, we set off with far more energy than the previous day. Splitting up to find food; Aaron, Mark, and I ventured into a tiny noodle shop across from Asakusa station. The prices were what sucked us in, being even cheaper than anything I have found back in Hirakata! Once inside, we knew we had a winner. The dishwasher and cook gave a welcome that was heavy with lower-class Tokyo accent and drawn out to the point of hilarity. We took places at the counter (there were no tables, no seats for that matter) and ordered our noodles, which proved much tastier than the soup I had choked down a day earlier. Standing in that closet sized shop and eating our noodles, we had a wonderful show. The "kitchen" was a cramped space surrounded on all sides by the counter, and I was so close to the dishwasher that I could feel the spray. At such close proximity to proprietors it was easy to hear their welcomes and farewells, which never faltered in length or grit, as customers continually rushed in and out. We vowed to return.

Our first stop after lunch was Ueno Park. Largest in Tokyo, it has several museums, two shrines and a zoo. It is also famous for its 1000+ cherry trees, but none were in bloom yet. The day was grey and we didn't go into any of the big attractions, but I was excited to find two things. One was the Shinobazu duck pond, which played prominently in an old Japanese novel I read last semester called Wild Geese by Mori Ogai. The other point of interest for me was the statue of Saigo Takamori. Saigo is often considered "The Last Samurai" of Japan, and the Samurai General played by Ken Watanabe in the Hollywood film of that same title is based upon this historical character. I have been interested in Saigo since long before the film was made, and even wrote a term paper on him one semester. These were the two minor attractions but were fun, personal connections for me.

After Ueno, we went on to Akihabara: supposedly the world capital for discount electronics and more recently anime, manga and video game culture. Naturally this was a big draw for many members of the group, but finding these things took more effort than expected and we were soon back on the train. Next came Ginza, a ritzy shopping, dining and entertainment district where real estate still goes for about $100,000 per square meter. The tall buildings were adorned with huge movie screens and strips of neon signs. An interesting place to see, but nobody bought anything. A cup of coffee there can cost more than $10, and the food prices made me shudder. Night fell, and last on the whirlwind tour was Ikebukuro, another shopping district and home of "Sunshine City," a giant mall complex that really is like its own small city. Here we split. The girls went on to shop in the mall while we three boys had a night of leisurely adventure.

It began to drizzle as we left "Sunshine City," so we bought some cheap umbrellas and headed slowly toward home. Like Namba in Osaka, only pedestrians filled the streets in that section of Ikebukuro, but the streets were much wider. It made for a fascinating sight: the neon signs reflecting in puddles and lighting the hundreds of bobbing umbrellas ahead. In Ikebukuro Station, second largest in Japan, we stopped to ask an employee about the metro. A drunken businessman overheard our Japanese and came over to have a long chat with us concerning baseball and umbrellas. Back in Asakusa, we had another delightful meal at our noodle closet. Then we walked the wet streets in search of cheap chocolate bars and beverages. Although some might see our night as boring, it was the most enjoyable part of the day and is one of my fondest memories of Tokyo. One does not need to see famous sights and do expensive things in order to experience a city.

The next day was our last, and began with making the mistake of going into a café with Ginza-like prices. To get this bad experience out of our system, we headed straight to the noodle hole. We then took a long ride out of the city center to visit the Bandai museum. Bandai, you may recall, is a Japanese toy manufacturer. The museum was filled with toys and accessories from Ultraman, Gundam, Godzilla and Power Rangers and more. Everyone but Mark and I are Gundam fans, so they paid to get into a special part of the museum where they could live out their wildest Gundam fantasies. Not much else to say about that... The train ride to and from the museum gave a good view of some of the city outskirts, as we clumped along with nearly half a dozen tracks running parallel on either side. Upon an early evening return to Asakusa we ate at Yoshinoya, a chain restaurant famous for cheap beef dishes, cheap prior to the import bans that is. Gathering our bags and checking out of the hostel we headed to Shinjuku, where we would be catching the night-bus back around 11pm.

Shinjuku was amazing. It is what I would describe as Tokyo's Manhattan, with towering Skyscrapers and undulating seas of people. While the rest of the gang camped out on the second floor of a McDonalds, Mark and I went exploring down some crowded side streets, attracted by a riot of neon. Drunken Businessmen were everywhere, hanging off sketchy looking girls. A woman standing at a street corner offered us something we didn't catch, but could guess at. We decided to turn back before venturing very far into the glowing maze of debauchery. I have since discovered that we were on the edge of Kabukicho, the largest and most untamed red light district in Japan. Rejoining the others we headed to the station. We asked for direction many times, walked many blocks and what up and down levels. I knew at the time that it was Japan's busiest station; I now know it is also the world's busiest. After nearly an hour of searching, we found our bus.

Our grand trip to the East Capital was over. For the first few hours of the return trip Aaron and I enjoyed a deep, philosophical conversation about life. Eventually I was left to ponder alone in sleepless silence. My thoughts turned to what lay behind. I tried to sum up Tokyo, but it was impossible. I was not even sure if it had "felt" like Tokyo. I arrived in the city with some vague idea of what it should be, and though Shinjuku came close, I never quite found my preconceived Tokyo. However, things rarely fit to our expectations and it is nearly impossible to sum up a place like that. Tokyo no doubt means something different to each of its countless millions of residents and visitors. My memories of the city will simply be added to what had already collected in my mind. Memories of the noodle shop, the rainy walk and the view from the tower give me a personal connection and balance what I see presented by media and pop culture. Now the city feels real, less fanciful. But the character of Tokyo remains illusive and ever-changing for me. My view is just as crowded, confused and beautiful as the city itself.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1142927940/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1142927940/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1142927940/tpod.html Sun, 23 Apr 2006 04:05:17 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Tokyo, Japan

Halfway through the 16th century, Edo was a tiny fishing village far east of the bright center of Kyoto. In 1603, Tokugawa Ieyasu became the first leader in a new line of Shoguns. He established his headquarters at Edo so as to shift political power as far from the emperor in Kyoto as possible. Under Tokugawa's rule, all of Japan was unified and the society and economy were restructured. The country entered the most rapid period of urbanization in all of world history. Edo was no exception, doubling in size with every year. It soon eclipsed Kyoto, becoming the largest city in Japan and the new cultural center. By the mid 17th century, its population surpassed one million, beating out London as the largest city on the planet. When the emperor's power was restored in 1868, the throne was relocated to the Edo. The old Imperial capital had been called "Capital City," or Kyoto. It was decided that Edo would be renamed "East Capital," or Tokyo.

The 20th century has been a chaotic mix of growth and rebirth for Tokyo. In 1923, the Kanto earthquake destroyed 50% of structures in the city and killed about 80,000. But the city was rebuilt rapidly and to a more Western model. For a time Tokyo enjoyed the jazz and democracy of the late 1920's, before becoming the scene of the power struggles and assassinations in the 1930's as the military took control and steered the country into war. By the time Japan surrendered in 1945, the city was in ruin and its population was only half of what it had been 5 years earlier. But the 1964 Olympics were held in an impressively reconstructed Tokyo, proving to the world that Japan had risen from the ashes like a phoenix.

Japan's post-war economic miracle gave Tokyo's name new meaning, as it truly became the world economy's "East Capital," second only to New York City overall. But the steamroller economy took its toll on the city, where Mt. Fuji disappeared behind the dirtiest skies of the 1970's. The 1980's saw an even more technologically advanced and cleaner Tokyo, but it was then that the speculation bubble began growing dangerously out of control. By the end of the decade, a square meter in the center of the city was valued around $300,000. The added value of all real-estate in Tokyo came out to more than the rest of world's real-estate combined. Clearly this over speculation was unnatural and could not last. The bubble burst in 1989 and the ripple effects of this were largely responsible for imploding the Japanese economy, which remains stagnant to this day. But Tokyo is still the economic capital of the East, and one of the most lively, modern and culturally relevant cities in the world.

Of course we had to see it. When spring break began on March 17th, the plans were already set. Since Tokyo is about 400 km distant, we knew that getting there would cost far more time and money than any trip yet attempted. We decided to save on the later, and took the slowest and cheapest rout possible. We left Hirakata city by train around 9pm, and had boarded a night-bus on the outskirts of Kyoto around 10. Thus began a long and sleepless ride through the dark and mountainous spine of the island. There was no bathroom on the bus, so every few hours we pulled into rest stops, their lights glowing eerily in the mist. As morning drew closer we came down into the Kanto plain, the largest flat area in Japan. Over a quarter of the population lives there, and it is now one vast urban sprawl radiating out from the Tokyo. From above, it glowed with millions of pinpricks of light like a galaxy.

At 5am, the sky began to lighten behind the looming forest of skyscrapers on the horizon. We were finally there. By 5:30 we were on an overpass, traveling down a canyon of steel and class. In between buildings, I could make Tokyo Tower, glowing like a beacon against the predawn sky. As I anticipated, traveling through Tokyo just before sunrise far surpassed any prior experiences of the sort, including my first night ride out of Osaka. The sun was just poking up when we drove past the Imperial Palace grounds and pulled into Tokyo Station sometime past 6:30. After spending quite some time in the station, which was like its own underground city, we had our first ride on the Tokyo metro, the cheapest and most convenient I've ever experienced. Finally, we emerged in the ward of Asakusa.

Asakusa was famous in feudal times because it contained the notorious government sanctioned pleasure district of Yoshiwara. Today it is a quaint, touristy area famous for Sensoji Temple. Several tall buildings line the Sumida River which runs through, but otherwise it is a fairly tame area. It was in this ward that we had reserved two nights stay at a youth hostel, which we found deep in one of Asakusa's residential mazes. It was on a narrow street shaded by tall apartment buildings; so silent that morning that I could hardly believe we were in Tokyo. Check-in time was not until 2pm, but we were able to drop off our bags so that we could wander Asakusa unfettered. Back in the bustle of the central Asakusa, we were drawn into Sensoji as if by a magnet.

Legend holds that in the year AD 628 two brothers fished a statue of Kannon, Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, out of the Sumida River. Although they threw it back, it kept returning to them. Eventually they gave in and started building a temple for Kannon at that spot on the river. Construction of Sensoji temple ended in 645, making it the oldest and one of the most famous temples in Tokyo. Its main building was huge and the grounds were impressive so we spent a fair amount of time there. We ate breakfast in a food tent and I had possibly the worst meal of my stay in Japan thus far- a bowl of intestine soup. After eating at the temple, we headed out and strolled along the Sumida River for a time, basking in the warm sun and fighting off the urge to curl up on the ground and sleep (as some homeless men were doing around us). Eventually 2pm rolled around, and after some overpriced ice-cream we checked in and took a brief nap.

Feeling just slightly refreshed after our nap, we set out again. The sun light was working its way up the skyscrapers and the city lights were coming to life. Our destination was Tokyo Tower. Completed in 1958, it was modeled after the Eiffel tower but stands 13 meters taller, coming in at a grand total 333 meters: the tallest self-supporting steel tower in the world. In addition to being a tourist attraction, it also serves as a radio and television broadcast antenna. At night Tokyo Tower blazes with thousands of small lights, making it look almost like a giant Christmas tree. We were able to take an elevator up to an observation deck 250 meters above the ground. I had wondered about the logic of going up in the tower after sundown but considering the love I have developed for Japan's city lights, I never should have doubted the idea. Once again, I was breathless.

There are several ways in which to measure city population. If one measures the "city proper," Tokyo is no longer the largest and just barely beats out NYC at about 8.5 million. The difficulty is that technically there is no longer a city of Tokyo; there is Tokyo Metropolis, in which over 12 million live. If measuring the agglomeration of a city's surrounding and connected urban districts, Tokyo is by far the largest in the world with 34 million. Either way, it is a frightening accumulation of glass, steel, electricity and humanity. A quarter of a kilometer above the earth, I could see avenues snaking like glowing arteries, sparkling suspension bridges and hulking skyscrapers with the red lights on their rooftops winking visibly from one horizon to the next. Beholding such a sight, I could not help but contemplate the human race and what it has done to this planet. Is it progress or is it tragedy? However one views the giant, human stain on the earth's surface called Tokyo, it is very beautiful.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1141472100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1141472100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/mearal01/hirakata_spring/1141472100/tpod.html Sun, 23 Apr 2006 02:06:43 -0400 Japan 2006: 関西くらいいい所はないねんちゃう？

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Kyoto, Japan

I had just gotten back from a late morning jog around campus when Mark knocked on my door and asked if I was up for an adventure. I couldn't turn this down, so I grabbed a quick shower and we were off. Although unsure of exactly where we were going, the late start made us decide on nearby Kyoto. For the second weekend in a row we road the Keihan line all the way to its last stop in the old capital. We consulted a map, and considering the time constraints chose the Ginkakuji, or "Silver Pavilion." The walk should have taken us half an hour, but we got sidetracked and ended up climbing a large wooded hill. By time we reached our destination it was late afternoon.

Ginkakuji was built as a retirement villa for the shogun (generalissimo) Ashikaga Yoshimasa in 1482. It was modeled after the Kinkakuji, or "Golden Pavilion," which had been built as a retirement villa for an earlier Ashikaga shogun. Unlike Kinkakuji, which was actually covered in gold leaf, Ginkakuji never got its silver coating due to financial problems. But, like its sibling, Ginkakuji was converted into a Zen temple after the shogun died. It is a location of significant cultural importance for Japan. Yoshimitsu was a patron of the arts, and within the walls of his villa flower arranging, painting, Noh Theater, and tea ceremony were refined. The tea room found here is thought to the archetype for all that followed.

The pavilion itself was much smaller than I thought it would be and looked rather run-down. I can only assume that it is due to be revived. Anyhow, what the building itself lacks, is made up for by the temple grounds. In addition to the actual pavilion, the Ginkakuji consist of several other more impressive buildings, a wild rock garden, and a conventional Japanese garden with winding paths and bridges over little ponds filled with carp. Most impressive is the hill that the temple is nestled against. It has a tiny waterfall and is completely covered in moss. When I say completely covered, I mean it: the ground is literally carpeted with moss. As one sign read, "Very Important moss (like VIP)" I think that Ginkakuji should be called "Midorikakuji," or "Green Pavilion." In all seriousness, this was the most beautiful view of nature I have yet had in Japan. Strolling on the paths up the mossy hill that overlooks the temple in the glow of the setting sun was breathtaking.

The sound of wooden clapping sticks beating slowly at first, then faster, signaled that it was closing time. It turns out that all of the temples in Kyoto close at 5pm. It is a good thing we got to Ginkakuji when we did, for we barely had time to finish our scenic walk. When we exited through the main gates, monks were already at work sweeping the paths with bamboo brooms. I was sad to leave, and wonder if I will ever get back. I do hear it is amazing in the snow. But Ginkakuji is not a place where I want to visit; it is a place where I want to live!
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