lobo's TravelStream™ — Recent TravelPod.com entries

lobo's TravelStream™ — Recent TravelPod.com entries TravelStream™ news feed for member lobo on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/lobo en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:04:06 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com Merida - The Remarkable Paseo de Montejo — Merida, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267919/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267919/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267919/tpod.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:04:06 -0500 EXCURSIONS: M E X I C O : 23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months - a 55 Part Series - currentl

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Campbell River, Canada

Campbell River via the Coastal and Cariboo Circle RoutesWith Barbara's practicum coming to a rapid end, there was only one more out of town trip to be made to visit a client. This was a two and a half hour's drive north of Victoria which brought us to Malaspina University located on a mountain side overlooking Nanaimo.Since we were already headed north, we took this opportunity to continue along the beautiful east coast of Vancouver Island with our destination being Campbell River.In doing this trip we traveled on parts of two circle tours, marketed by Tourism British Columbia as:Coastal Circle Route Starting in Victoria, it goes up the east coast of Vancouver Island to Courtney where it crosses the Georgia Strait to Powell Rive then traces the Sunshine Coast to Vancouver and then back to Victoria(about 479km, including ferry travel)On this circle tour we went as far as Courtney.Coast Cariboo Circle Route It starts in Vancouver and crosses the Strait of Georgia to Nanaimo and then goes to the tip of Vancouver Island to Port Hardy. Here it continues via BC Ferry to distant Bella Coola. From here the road trip continues to 100 Mile House and then back to Vancouver.(about 1,835 km, excluding ferry travel)On this tour we went as far as Campbell RiverOn our way to Nanaimo we passed through several towns we had previously visited - Duncan and Chemainus and Ladysmith.Duncan is known as the Totem Pole Capital of BC., which makes for an interesting walk around town. On a previous trip I stopped here to blog the Forestry Museum.Chemainus, is a small town blessed with a beautiful sea-side setting and beautiful architecture. It is also renowned for its murals which can be seen throughout the town. While murals are common in BC, Chemainus has developed it into a fine art with a total of 36 on display. The lower town is also very charming with its collection of heritage homes and it also from here that there is a ferry connection to Thesis Island.Ladysmith is located just far enough away from Victoria that a coffee would be in order to stay alert. Fortunately there is a Tim Hortons right beside the highway to fill the need.Besides that, the little town has put on a major municipal charm offensive with interlocking stone sidewalks, a multitude of hanging flower pots and interesting architecture which has in my estimation succeeded completely to make it the perfect little town. Due to her recent wedding to Kid Rock, I also became aware that this is the hometown of Pamela Anderson.Namaimo is the only town along the coast that did not meet our expectations. It has none of the charm of Victoria nor the little towns that lead up to it. The downtown is undergoing a major commercial construction project and perhaps that will add what the town lacks. It has however the advantage of being only a one hour fifteen minutes ferry ride away from Horseshoe Bay and Vancouver. It would be possible for some people to live in Nanaimo and work in Vancouver and commute by ferry which would be a very relaxing way to get to and from work.Our destination, Malaspina University/College, bills itself as Canada's youngest university and its setting on a steep hill overlooking Nanaimo and the Georgia Strait with the mainland in the distance, makes for a truly remarkable location. Free Internet access and the beautiful vistas as seen from the library made time pass quickly as I was waiting for Barbara.From Namaimo to Campbell River the drive along the coast of the Georgia Strait is surprisingly beautiful and we kept wondering apart from the physical beauty what was the economic engine that produced such a collection of lovely towns.Parksville with its sandy beaches and Qualicum Beach with its stunning coast line are clean, sparkling communities that would be great to retire to. Having said that, Parksville has an overheated real estate market with the median price for a single family detached home coming in at $500,000 with a median household income of $49,000.If passing through Qualicum Beach the 26 Flavour Ice Cream Parlour located between the road and the beach makes for a refreshing stop. It would be appropriate then to take one of the road leading to the residential areas above the beach to see how beautiful the homes and landscaping are in this area of the island. Seeing how beautiful the neighbourhoods are I would not expect real estate prices to be much cheaper than Parksville.At beautiful Fanny Bay we came across a docked ship called the Salmon Transporter that caught our interest. It was in fact receiving a load from a double trailer tanker truck through a long thick tube strung from shore along the dock to the ship. As I was hunched over the semi-transparent tube beside the ship, trying to see what was being pumped into the hold of the Salmon Transporter, the captain appeared to wish me a good afternoon. We learned from him, that the ship was in fact taking a load of well water which it was transporting up the coast to far off Ocean Falls to be used by fish farms in that area. I was puzzled by why a salmon, generally thought of as a salt water fish, would be using well water. Having forgotten that salmon of course are spawned in the creeks and streams of British Columbia which are definitely not salt water, the need for fresh water was quickly clarified. Also of interest was the fact that what was being raised were Atlantic Salmon, a species which apparently grows bigger and faster than the species of west coast salmon.The twin communities of Courtney/Comox have been a source of curiosity for me simply because a very good high school friend, who went on to become a professor at St. Mary's University, seriously considered moving here some years ago. The fact that he selected Lunenburg, NS, speaks for his eye for physical beauty of surroundings. Lunenburg has got to rate as the pretties small town in Canada, although I think Perth, ON lays claim to that title. For Courtney/Comox to even have been in the running speaks for itself. So it was with this frame of mind that we approached these two communities and we were not disappointed in what we saw. Courtney has a rustic downtown with many boutiques, restaurants and shops. One of our discoveries was the quirky colourful building that housed the world headquarters of Island Inkjet Refills. It also boast a theater and a beautiful library.Comox is mostly known for CFB Comox (Canadian Forces Base) which is one of the bases for Canada's Air Force. Hence the Comox Air Force Museum would be stop for anyone interested in military aviation. Besides the classy main street we were happiest exploring the large wooden wharf by the Yacht Club. There was enough there to go for a decent walk over the water while admiring the super collection of yachts as well as the mountains of the interior of Vancouver Island and the mainland.Yes, this would be a great area to retire in, surrounded by the imposing beauty of the sea and mountains.Our final destination of this part of the trip however was beckoning.One of the first things one sees upon approaching Campbell River is beautiful Sequoia Park, located between the road and the Georgia Strait. When I saw the trees, I just about bounded out of the car, for the trees here were of the same species as are in a park in James Bay, the part of Victoria were we live. Up to this point no one had been able to tell me definitely what type of trees they were. Of course the rare Sequoia is quite different in appearance from the Douglas Firs, so common on Vancouver Island. Both are tall and majestic but the sequoia because of its superior size has to rate as the king of the western trees.My interest of course stems from wanting to blog the "Trees of British Columbia" which to date has has not been started.Campbell River also surprises in its clean, manicured appearance which belies its roots as a pulp and paper town. Huge sums of money were spent, I suspect mostly by the federal government, on a wharf that extends about a quarter of a kilometer, in an L-shape into Johnson Passage.This is a wonderful stop to see the sunset, people fishing, passing boats, educational displays about the wildlife, as well as the imposing plume of vapor projecting into the evening sky from the pulp and paper mill at the north end of the town.Speaking of fishing, it would appear that it does not get better than this since Campbell River is the self-proclaimed "Salmon Capital of the World".A walk down the main street leaves one again thinking that the municipal authorities got it right in making this a pleasant and interesting town. It is another addition to the many little municipal jewels on the east coast of Vancouver Island. The phrase "what a beautiful place" was used often on this trip.Campbell River also is a transportation point of hub because of a ferry crossing to Powell River on the mainland, as well as land transportation to Port Hardy in the north and Gold River to the west.About the next part of our trip I would like to say that this was planned, however it was not.In looking at the map in the area of Campbell River one sees off to the west another (the other being Tofino) access point towards the sea. This one leads to Gold River and far off Tahsis. These are two places that can create excitement just by there location on the map near historic Nootka Sound.Being curious we could not pass up this chance and in so doing we discovered the best was yet to come.October 30, 2009Thanks to "Old Sailor" we now have more information about the Salmon Transporter.oldsailor12 said:i served in salmon transporter when she was in the royal canadian navyher homeports where hmcs star hamilton before heading to halifax thenin 1978 she was transferred to equimalt where she finished up hertime.she did quite a spell transfered to the canadian coast guard shewas under the command of lcdr aaf hodge until reaquired by the royalcanadian navy while in the guard her homeport was toronto she was aresearch ship with canadian inland waters and carried scientist tocollect water sample and other items from around the great lakes thehiold was converted into living space and upper labOct. 31when salmon tranporter was coast guard and navy right in front of the house was the upper lab which then became  quarters when she returned to halifax and the foclse had a small house added to access the focsle and to access the lower deck the emergency fire pump was located there along with the heads and washplaces.you can view the differences between her and her sister ships either on web just use the search engines porte boats  and also hmcs porte dauphine to view what she orginally looked light these ships where designed ond the north sea fishing trawlers..lcdr hodge commissioned porte dauphine right up till the coast guard reaquired her the ships where orginally designed to operate antisubmarine booms at major ports and and where to operate in pairs so when a new captain took over he had to make sure which way the prop turned as they had left and right hand scews and when on the great lakes many a new skipper bash the jetty at hmcs patriot which was flag officer navy reserves. porte st jean had her windlass gear in the focsle as she use to go down to the carribean and shot drones off for antiaircraft practice for the fleet if you have any more questions i will try to do nmybest to answer themNovember 7 Oldsailor12 has posted a comment on your TravelPod photo titled "10-curious -- as ususal " Saturday, November 7, 2009 8:26 PM From: "richard appleyard" <richard_apple@hotmail.com> Add sender to Contacts To: travelswithlobo@yahoo.com sure does bring back memories of the ship had some good times on her iserved in her twice once on the great lakes one night we where offbronte are i had trouble sleeping and i wandered up to the wheelhousethe officers where around the chart table and i asked brad whatis goingon  he said they where trying to figure out where we are i lookedaround and omy god help us iwent over to the chart table eased my wayin and with my finger i said we are right here on the chart i was toldlater i was .25 miles off all i did was look around bronte piers off tostarboard chch tower off to port and the burlington skyway bridge deadahead the senior officer said to them how can a petty officer with aglance figure out pretty accurately where we are without using anyinsruments he eyeballed it learn to eyeball your position for you mayrun in to situation where you dont have time to use the azithmuth ring.when she transferred to the west coast she only made two stops one inpanama canal zone and the second was san diego. so it shows the rangeof the ship before refuelling.everything was strictley rationedGreat story Richard!Lobo 
]]> Merida - Where Were You On This Day? — Merida, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267990/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267990/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267990/tpod.html Sun, 01 Nov 2009 12:42:09 -0500 EXCURSIONS: M E X I C O : 23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months - a 55 Part Series - currentl

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Merida, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico

First Time Reader? ......here is the background to this series of blogs:http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/9/1233502800/tpod.htmlMexico:  23 Destinations to Spend the Winter MonthsMeridano. 21 of 23 destinations (this is not a ranking)--------------------------------------------Merida – A Special DayWhere were you on January 20, 2009? Part 2 of 3Remarkable dates tend to be remembered not only for the events that make them memorable but also for the location and moment where the event was witnessed. So it was with the inauguration of Barak Obama as the 44th president of the United States of America. We shall always remember that on this day, at this historic moment, we were in Merida, Yucatan. Since we were not in Washington, DC, the best we could hope for was to see the event on television. The question was where to go. Since Merida was such a hot bed of expats it was not a stretch of the imagination to conclude that for this moment there would be a need for some of the expats to gather and share this feel-good moment with others.It was thus that we learned from Bob Swafford, an expat who works at the tourist office, that a good place would be the prestigious Fiesta Americana Hotel located at Pisano Montejo 451.  It was here that a group of expats was to gather to witness the inauguration.http://www.fiestamericana.com/portal/p/en_MX/FA/FMD/1/0/FMDdescripcionhotel.html?hotel=FMD&marca=FA&idioma=en_MX&opcion=0&page=-1Considering that the thrust of this series of blogs: Mexico: 23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months” is directed at expats or “snow birds” as we call them in Canada, this was a gathering we could not pass up, notwithstanding the inauguration of the President of the United States.To get there we would have liked to use our preferred mode of transportation – walking. Time and distance dictated that we had to take a bus north along Calle 60 to Avenida Colon from where we walked east to the famous Pasejo de Montejo (next blog) where the Fiesta Americana is located.Upon our arrival we were directed to a bar and it was there that we found a group of about 100 of mostly Americans with some Canadians and a few Mexicans gathered to witness this moment in history. My first impression was one of disappointment as the group was smaller than expected and there was no large screen TV in sight. The small screen TVs scattered around the room offered only small grainy image.After procuring the prerequisite coffee and croissant it was time to mingle. Now mingling with strangers is not my strong suit but my drive for information got the better of me as I made the rounds.To say that there was a buzz in the room would have been an understatement for everyone realized that we were about to witness history as the first black president of the U.S.A. was about to be sworn in.A common phrase heard in conversation was “I would never have thought to be witness to this moment in my life time” and that pretty well summed up the importance of the hour. The anticipation of the group of what I suspect was mostly Obama supporters was great although no one really seemed to be paying much attention to what was being said on TV until the actual swearing in ceremony. Part of the problem with listening to what was being said on TV was the collective din of the conversations going on around the room.The enthusiasm for Obama was pan-national as I observed that Canadians seemed to be just as enthusiastic as the Americans. Previous to being elected president, Obama drew his largest crowd in Berlin Germany. The conversation of course came to a halt when the swearing in ceremony started as everyone hung on every word, including the minor stumble on Obama’s part, in repeating the oath.The stumble, the details of which I have now forgotten, was uncharacteristic of the man who had proven himself to be the ultimate orator.http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2009/jan/23/barack-obama-oath-inaugurationThe man with the resonating voice and the inspirational catch phrases such as: “Yes, we can”, “Vote for Change”, “Change we can believe in”, “a leader who can deliver change”, was about to take his prize as the 44th president of the United States of America. During the swearing in ceremony I was more intent on observing the reaction of the ensemble around me. What I saw was intense interest, a hanging on every word, a look of satisfaction, a tear shed by some males and females and at the end wild applause, congratulatory handshakes, general hugging as a sign of celebration and a general feeling of joy.  I keyed in on a black man sitting at the far end of the bar studying his face and teary-eyed reaction to the proceedings. I could only imagine the feelings of pride and satisfaction awash in his inner sanctum. At that moment all the history of separation, rejection and discrimination must have been forgotten and replaced by the anticipation of a dawn of a new era.Let it be said, it was a euphoric moment if you were an Obama supporter and that seemed to include everyone assembled here.Since I am writing this blog in Montreal on October 25, 2009 a lot of time has passed and some observations can be made about this dawn of a new era ushered in by the election of Barack Obama.The new president’s early approval ratings of 64% were an encouraging sign but then reality set in.The new president promised change and lots of it. That sounds good on the surface but upon closer examination change is threatening to a whole lot of people with vested interests and different political philosophies. Furthermore, as a Canadian I had no idea how deeply divided the Republicans were from the Democrats making Obama’s promise of working with the opposition a hollow promise.The first hot potato the new president had to handle was an economic crisis inherited from the Bush administration. It resulted in a $787-billion economic stimulus package that received only three Republican votes of approval in the Senate and was unanimously rejected by the Republicans in the House of Representatives - so much for Obama’s promise for bi-partisanship. The economic results so far are positive but slow in coming.This hot potato was nothing in comparison with the unrest stirred up by Obama’s promised health care reform.  Obama filled Pennsylvania Avenue with people for his inauguration. However, in September the mood on Pennsylvania Avenue was entirely different as thousands upon thousands protested vehemently against the reform of the health care system. With 44 million Americans being uninsured, health care reform would seem to be a no-brainer. The problem is that those in the United States who have health care insurance have some of the best medical care in the world. Any plan that would provide coverage for the 44 million that are presently not covered risks diluting the coverage of the majority. That is a situation that a lot of people will not take sitting down. In Canada we have universal health coverage provided by the federal and provincial governments. To Canadians it would be unthinkable that 25% of the population has no health coverage. The Canadian health care system however has its problems with long waiting lists for crucial medical procedures. It is for this reason that in the U.S. the Canadian health care system is a poor example to follow. In other words, let the government keep its hands off health insurance.It is for that reason that signs of “No Obama care” and “National Health Care Doesn’t Work, Just Ask Canada” abounded at the rally. Ironically in Canada, public health insurance is sacrosanct and the mention of private health insurance is as welcome as a skunk at a garden party. The fear is that if there was a parallel private system the best doctors would be drawn to the private system thereby diluting the public system.Attempting to rally support for the reforms, the president addressed a joint session of Congress only to be greeted by a shout of “You Lie!” from a disgruntled and boorish Republican.  http://www.obamayoulie.com/The vitriol displayed by some of the protestors as well as the far right media led by Fox News and commentators like Glenn Beck and Rush Limbaugh prompted former President Carter to remark that a lot of the hatred addressed at Obama was racially motivated. Obama took it in stride by noting that he has been “black for a long time”.The political right has an inherent fear of “big government” which translates into huge government spending.  It is projected that with Obama’s “borrow-and-spend” policies, the deficit will reach a mindboggling $17 trillion by 2018. Obama’s approval rating has dropped into the 50% range and continues to drop.On the foreign policy front, Obama has cancelled the missile defense system that was to have been built in Poland much to the consternation of Russia.As a result of this concession, Russia may be willing to put pressure on Iran to come clean on its nuclear program.Obama continues to be committed to pulling U.S. troops out of Iraq by the end of 2010 while waffling on his Afghanistan strategy.  While a “surge” was successful in Iraq, no commitment has been made to repeat the strategy in Afghanistan. There are signs that the battle against the Taliban is going badly with no victory in sight. A possible exit strategy that is being floated is that the battle should be with Al-Qaeda and not the Taliban. Thrown into this mix has been the unexpected awarding of the Nobel Peace Prize to President Obama based on his conciliatory posture towards the rest of the world. Compared to the bellicose nature of American foreign policy under George Bush the Obama approach is a breath of fresh air. It is also a breath of fresh air he tried to extend to Republicans with totally negative results. It is a Nobel Peace prize awarded almost totally on expectations. There is no doubt that as we stood on that day in Merida witnessing this historical moment of Obama’s inauguration, we were witness to the dawning of a new age.  The expectation was that this would be an age in which co-operation and consultation would replace confrontation and coercion. That was a feel-good moment.Like most feel-good moments, they only last so long. As the above brief overview of the first nine months of the Obama presidency has illustrated, co-operation and consultation have been met with confrontation, intransigence and obstruction both on the domestic and foreign fronts. No. nice guys may not finish last but from the looks of it they don’t finish first either.Going back to the assembled group of expats at the Fiesta Americana I once again ran into Bob Swafford who along with Nidia Bastaranches Hernandez, a dentist, made for a photo of a dashing couple.Of special interest was my encounter with Reg Deneau of Windsor, Ontario Canada and Progresso, Yucatan. I perked up when Reg mentioned that he was from Windsor, Ontario for the simple reason that I grew up there. I graduated from Riverside High School in 1964 and was therefore amazed to learn that Reg had spent his teaching career at the same school albeit long after I had left.  He had also taught with a good friend of mine, Eric Seppala, who is now retired and lives in beautiful Kingsville, Ontario.Reg splits his time between Progresso located on the Gulf of Mexico just a half hour north of Merida and Windsor, Ontario.  In Merida he keeps active and occupied by being the director to the English library. What a great job for a former high school librarian. I remember Reg as an avid Obama supporter who wore his “Obama for America” T-shirt with pride and who had a tear in his eye as he witnessed the swearing in of the 44th president of the U.S.A.In another error of judgment we did not spent an extra day in the Merida area in order to check out Progresso. What was it that made Reg chose to live in the port and beach town of Progresso instead of the cultural hotbed of Merida? The English library in which he worked as the librarian is after all located in Merida.Let’s send an e-mail and maybe we can get an answer to that question.Feedback: travelswithlobo@yahoo.comComing Soon:Merida – Paseo Montejo – One of the great Avenues of the Americas
]]> Merida - High Expectations and First Impressions — Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267836/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267836/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1254267836/tpod.html Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:42:32 -0400 EXCURSIONS: M E X I C O : 23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months - a 55 Part Series - currentl

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Mérida, Yucatán, Mexico

First Time Reader? ......here is the background to this series of blogs:http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/9/1233502800/tpod.htmlMexico:  23 Destinations to Spend the Winter MonthsMeridano. 21 of 23 destinations (this is not a ranking)--------------------------------------------Merida – High Expectations and First ImpressionsPart 1 of 3Merida was another destination that was highly anticipated albeit for a different reason than any of the others.My “raison d’être” blog for this trip described how the inspiration came from the publication “International Living” and their rating of Mexico as the world’s number one retirement destination for 2008. As an aside, in 2009, in the same publication, Mexico has slipped to no. 2 behind Ecuador which in a selfish way is actually good news because this provides another reason for a future trip. (Panama was rated no. 3)All right, so there you have it. In the context of 2008, Mexico was rated as the number one destination for ex-pats. But the question becomes - where in Mexico? Well doing a bit of detective work, and it wasn’t difficult, I observed that the editor of International Living, Dan Presher, had made the choice of living in Merida. I could only conclude that with the knowledge (should this be “information about”) of Mexico that is contained in the collective writings of International Living the editor would make the choice of living in the best destination.By the way, subscribe to International Living’s free newsletters at your own peril as you will be bombarded with daily multi-pitches for various destinations and investment opportunities. I do admire the writers who make the various “pitches” because it is a level of persuasion that I can only dream about. Not to be outdone the former editor of International Living, Kathleen Peddicord, has launched a competing site called “Overseas Opportunities Letter”.  Not surprisingly, it follows exactly the same format as International Living with endless e-mails.One of its recent mailings was:Top Retire Overseas Options Rated and Ranked, here is a link to the website:http://www.liveandinvestoverseas.com/This is a hypothesis (the editor living in the best destination) that I was eager to submit to the “Myth Busters Test” – so to speak. In this case I would be the “Myth Buster”.Our arrival in Merida by bus took place in the early evening with darkness having descended upon the city by 19:00. Remember, this was after all the month of January. Despite it being a winter month we did arrive in a sweltering city. Our taxi ride from the bus station located on the outskirts brought us through a somewhat grimy city that we were desperately expecting to rapidly improve in looks as we neared the center. Unfortunately this did not happen. Unlike a lot of the destinations we had visited in Mexico our first impression of Merida left something to be desired.This impression was created by dimly lit conditions, heavy traffic, shabby housing and grimy streets. Our hotel was again selected by the taxi driver and was as usual based on two criterions: proximity to the center and price. In this case the hotel barely made the third criterion – acceptability. After the Hotel Lopez in Campeche the next hotel would be a tough act of follow and this one proved that point. We ditched our suitcases as quickly as possible and headed for the Main Square or “zocalo” to see what Merida by night had to offer. It was at this point that we were in awe at the number of people milling about under the colonnades around the “zocalo” and in the park occupying the middle of the square. The main focus point was an outdoor classical music concert that attracted hundreds enthralled by this cultural experience. Apparently this concert series is a nightly occurrence in the summer. No, on second thought, this is not the summer. It just seems like it, for this is the winter. Winter is after all the pleasant time of year in Merida as the summers are sweltering and unbearably hot.  But then no one is asking the ex-pat to stay here year round. Even the editor of International Living has opted for a summer residence in Cuenca, Ecuador. Merida, also known as the “White City”, is billed as one of the most modern cities in Mexico and as a center for the arts. The concert series would be an example of “a center for the arts”.  But “one of the most modern cities in Mexico” – that one leaves me puzzled, as our short stay failed to elicit any thoughts similar to that. The city is further touted as being vibrant, having a welcoming atmosphere, colonial-era historic Spanish architecture, churches, museums, theatre and cinemas, art exhibitions, symphonies and great restaurants. It also has a Convention Center, golf courses, malls, international airport, modern hospitals, acclaimed universities and much more. It also has an English library.Come to think of it, all of the above is what must be attracting the ex-pats to Merida. But I remain unconvinced.Getting back to the “zocalo”, yes two sides of it were quite animated with throngs of people under the colonnades enjoying the heat of the evening but the other two sides were strangely underwhelming due to lack of lighting and activity. In my opinion, the main square could have been more impressive.In a reality check I have to admit that none of my photos capture any of the negativity that my blog seems to transmit which I find puzzling. On the other hand there is a tendency to show the best side of a destination. Anyway, manana es un otro dia and it showed Merida in a different light.Oh yes, manana – January 20, 2009 – was a special day. Does that day mean anything to you? It should, for it was the day that the 44th president of the United States of America, Barack H. Obama, was inaugurated. When I put the inauguration together with the fact that there were a lot of ex-pats here in Merida I wondered whether there was anything special going on to a mark the event. That is the subject of the next blog.The blog after that will show how the “henequen boom” turned Montejo’s Boulevard into one of the greatest avenues in all of Mexico.http://www.visitmexico.com/wb/Visitmexico/Visi_MeridaThen there is the hectic scene at the Centro Commercial Cuevas which I have chosen to include in this blog.---------------------------------------------Feedback: travelswithlobo@yahoo.com---------------------------------------------Coming Soon:  Merida – Where Were You on January 20, 2009?
]]> Campeche - Outside Centro Historico — Campeche , Campeche, Mexico http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1252694657/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1252694657/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1252694657/tpod.html Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:45:01 -0400 EXCURSIONS: M E X I C O : 23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months - a 55 Part Series - currentl

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Campeche, Campeche, Mexico

First Time Reader? ......here is the background to this series of blogs:http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/9/1233502800/tpod.htmlMexico:  23 Destinations to Spend the Winter MonthsCampeche no. 20 of 23 destinations (this is not a ranking--------------------------------------------Population: 175,000Capital city of state by the same nameUNESCO World Heritage siteLocation: Gulf of Mexico side of the Yucatan PeninsulaFounded by San Francisco de MontejoAlso known as San Francisco de Campeche---------------------------------------------Campeche – the Cadiz of Mexico(part 1 of 3)  It was with a great deal of anticipation that we undertook this next leg of our Mexican tour. Why the anticipation? The next part of our journey was a 10-hour overnight bus ride from San Cristobal de Las Casas to Campeche that would bring us to the Yucatan Peninsula and the white sands of the Caribbean Sea (Gulf of Mexico). "All long-distance buses have two drivers and the idea is for one driver to crawl into a coffin-sized compartment near the baggage compartment to sleep while the other driver had command of the bus." The Yucatan is well known in the world of tourism for its archeological sites such as Uxmal and Chechen Itza as well as for the beautiful Mayan Riviera. It stretches along the east coast of the Yucatan from world famous Cancun to the Tulum region – an area where one beach is more beautiful than the next.Our destination of Campeche on the west side of the Yucatan peninsula is relatively unknown which sometimes supplies the best thrill in travel and Campeche was one of those times.I don't know whether it was just the excitement of getting to the Caribbean Coast or plain determination but I did not mind the long overnight bus ride which for me means a minimum of sleep and a maximum of watching Barbara sleep. It also gave me lots of opportunity to observe the skills of the bus drivers in guiding the behemoth of a bus along the narrow roads and exercising their passing skills in situations that had my palms sweating. It was for that reason that we always took seats in the middle of the bus on the right side. All long-distance buses have two drivers and the idea is for one driver to crawl into a coffin-sized compartment near the baggage compartment to sleep while the other driver had command of the bus. Needless to say one of the attributes of a Mexican bus driver is not to suffer from claustrophobia and to be able to sleep while the vehicle is being driven on bumpy roads and over “topes”, the ubiquitous speed bumps that can be found along Mexico’s highways whenever there is any sign of civilization. It boggles the mind how much fuel is used and green house gases emitted as a result of the topes. On the other hand, the numbers of lives that may have been saved by slowing traffic are immeasurable.Other than short stops to pick up bleary-eyed passengers at various bus stations there was only one major stop for supper in the middle of the night. The two bus drivers already had their table prepared and in short time a full course meal was in progress. Of course in Mexico it would be unthinkable to have this supper-in-the-middle-of-the-night without watching television, which is what the two bus drivers did.I don’t know whether you have ever noticed but when you walk through an airport the pilots can not only be recognized by their uniforms but also, for the most part, by their looks as a lot of them have distinguished or dashing looks. The same can be said for most Mexican long-distance bus drivers as they also have a look about themselves. On the other hand, municipal bus drivers are truly “run of the mill” as they drive to the beat of blaring music. I must admire them nevertheless for their ability to give change with one hand while driving with the other.There was one more thing about our all-night bus ride that was memorable if not sinful. In this case it was sinful by omission. How could we have not gotten off the bus in the middle of the night to put us in a position to visit one of the greatest archeological sites in Mexico – Palenque?  You may not know it by its name but when you take a look at a photo you will probably react with – “Oh, yes I have seen that before – that is awesome!”http://www.allaboutmexico.com/Archeological/index.htmIt is not that we slept through the stop but it was rather justified with –“we came to Mexico to explore 23 destinations to spend the winter months”. At least that is what we said but the overwhelming factor was lack of time. We only had five days before our departure and we still had three more destinations to explore.We arrived early on a Sunday morning in a deserted city of Campeche that is located in a state by the same name. Our usual strategy of having a taxi driver take us to a hotel was put to the test as we visited three hotels before going back to the second one – the Hotel Lopez.  Our first impression of deserted Campeche was “wow – what a neat place”. Mexico has the capacity of surprise with its diversity and Campeche - at least historic Campeche - was a town like no other. It is unique for its “centro historico” that is completely enclosed by huge stonewalls. By comparison, not even Quebec City or St. Augustine in Florida has its walls completely intact.A closer examination of the city map corrects the assertion I just made based upon recollection or impression. It seems the original walls only stand along the north and south sides of Campeche. So maybe in the end only Lucca in Tuscany has a city that is entirely enclosed and yes, there is Carcassonne in the south of France and St. Malo in Bretagne and “j’en passe”. That’s an expression that the French use meaning that one could list many more examples if necessary. In my case it is simply a closer. Entry into the “centro historico” from the north and south is gained through various arched gates that reveal an awe-inspiring interior.  Most remarkable are the uniformity of architecture, the narrowness of the smooth “ersatz” cobblestoned streets and the lack of electric wires as they are buried underground. It all seemed to fit together to produce a wonderful scene that immediately brought to mind the town of Cadiz in Andalusia, Spain. The similarity was astounding in these two beautifully restored cities, at least as I recalled it.I visited Cadiz in 1996 when I did a home exchange from Ottawa, Ontario to beautiful Marbella on the Costa del Sol in southern Spain. From Marbella it is a natural to visit Gibraltar.  Once in Gibraltar, Cadiz is not much further beyond that. The Spaniards established Campeche and they must have had Cadiz in mind when they built this beautiful town.The biggest challenge in the “centro historico” is to not get lost. So as I left the hotel after a long nap in search of a coffee I strained to remember the street names that would lead me back to the hotel to a Barbara that once again had the ability to out sleep me by a long shot.  The getting lost part is anchored in the homogeneity of architecture and the look of the beautiful streets. It all looks the same in a very positive way and on this Sunday there were very few people on the street. The look of old Campeche is also preserved by by-laws that prohibit any protruding commercial signs. It all makes for a classy place.Since I greatly appreciate architecture it was a pleasure to walk around and enjoy the look of Old Spain as I had never seen it before. Since the theme of this trip was “23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months” it was easy to project myself living in this “Disneyworld-like” theme park. It was astonishing and perhaps a stretch when someone told us that there are only three families who permanently live in the centro historico. That would have left it to various businesses, hotels and non-residential use buildings, which would have explained the eerie lack of people on this Sunday morning.On my search for a coffee and just to get my bearings I directed myself towards the Gulf of Mexico and the beautiful malecon where later we eventually took enough photos to write a separate blog.Heading back into the city I finally found some signs of life in the charming main square in front of the cathedral. After grabbing a coffee the trick was to find my way back to the hotel in this city bereft of major landmarks. Streets running north-south are identified by odd numbers and streets running east-west are even numbered. I find this mundane and bereft of any imagination. This is hardly becoming of such a charming place like the historical center of Campeche. Be that as it may it did help me get back to the hotel. Speaking of the hotel, as the photos will attest the Hotel Lopez was probably the best we stayed in during our entire trip – all at the reasonable price of 500 pesos.Coming Soon:Campeche – The MaleconPart 2 of 3--------------------------------------------------Feedback: travelswithlobo@yahoo.com----------------------------------------------------
]]> San Cristobal de las Casas - The Market — San Cristobal de las Casas, Central Mexico and Gulf Coast, Mexico http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1251916033/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1251916033/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1251916033/tpod.html Sat, 05 Sep 2009 10:53:50 -0400 EXCURSIONS: M E X I C O : 23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months - a 55 Part Series - currentl

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San Cristobal de las Casas, Central Mexico and Gulf Coast, Mexico

First Time Reader? ......here is the background to this series of blogs:http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/9/1233502800/tpod.html Mexico:  23 Destinations to Spend the Winter MonthsSan Cristobal de Las Casas  - The ExcursionsPart 3 of 5no. 19 of 23 destinations (this is not a ranking)-----------------------------------------------------------------------------San Juan de Chamula, Zinacanta and LarrainzarPart 3 of 5No visit to San Cristobal de Las Casas is complete without a taking a guided tour of the nearby towns of Chamula and Zinacanta.I don’t know what the competition is like but the tours with “Alex and Raul” which leave every day of the week from the cathedral square are to be highly recommended. On this particular day the tour was led by Alex who could be described as personable, articulate, knowledgeable and culturally sensitive to the delicate operation of entering into the domain the Tzotzil people.If that isn’t strong enough suffice it to say that the visit to the church in the village of Chamula – a Tzotzil Maya village – was the highlight of our trip. Ironically I did say in my last blog that I include a lot of photos in my blogs because I believe in the old adage that a “picture is worth a thousand words”. In this blog I unfortunately cannot support the most interesting part (the visit to the church in Chamula) with photographs simply because photography is strictly forbidden.Therefore a thousand words will have to do but therein lays the problem. I don’t believe I have enough knowledge about this profoundly cultural and religious moment to write a thousands words. Let me backtrack for a moment to the start of the excursion. To join in all, you have to do is hang around the cathedral square between 09:00 and 9:30 looking for a group that might be going on a tour. Anyway that is how we did it. A better way would be to call 678 37 41 and make a reservation or via email: alexraultours@yahoo.com.mx. After we made contact and paid our fee of 150 pesos ($15 Can.) we were on our way in a mini-bus.Our first destination was the village of Chamula located in lush green rolling hills just 10 kilometers from San Cristobal de Las Casas. Our first stop on this day of drizzling rain was to a typical family home. Since we were a small group of about eight persons we were all able to crowd into a room that was dedicated to religious worship.  It would be like dedicating a part of one’s house as a chapel for prayer.This particular “chapel” was quite different from what one would expect. The first hint is the strong aromas of pine needles and incense from burning candles. Now think of it – the strong smell of pine needles and incense – that is a powerful combination. That means that the olfactory sense is already working in overdrive. The visual sense is also in overdrive because looking down at the floor it is covered with a layer of spruce needles. There is also a wall created by the erection of cut off corn plants in front of which is a red decorated table containing various religious objects. The corn plant is of greatest importance in the food chain of this culture so it is not unusual to think that it would play a part in religious observance.  Recessed into the wall of plants is a little shrine containing the most sacred religious objects. Also on the table is a goblet used to drink the famous “posh” – a sugar cane based alcoholic drink. Raul made the point that unfortunately overconsumption of “posh” is a common problem in the town particularly during festivals when everyone is expected to participate by drinking posh in every house that they visit.It would have been priceless to have actually seen the family during its religious observances but that is a domain into which the tourist is not invited. In fact none of the family members were visible during our visit. Raul in his calm voice and manner spends about half an hour detailing the various items and procedures that make up this sacred part, found in one shape or another, in every home in this village. The Tzotzil are a religious people and therein lays the mystery – the manner in which they mix Catholicism and ancient Mayan religious practices.From appearances of the village, the Tzotzil in San Juan de Chamula are not only a religious people but they are also industrious if the relatively opulent houses found in the village are any indication. Rural Mexico at times, maybe even often, can set new standards in sub-standard housing. Mud floors and tree branches bunched closely together for walls are a common scene. There is none of that here in this village. There is lots of brick, cement, nice windows etc. to make this village stand out in comparison to what we have seen elsewhere in rural Mexico. It can be said that their prosperity can also be evidenced by a lack of begging. From the way they bear themselves, I would suggest also that they are a proud people.That feeling extends throughout the village and into the town center where a new market hall was under construction. Raul pointed out that after the recent Zapatista revolt, centered in this region, the government of Mexico is eager to throw some money in this direction. The revolt had also resulted in some concessions, which resulted in some small measure of autonomy from the Mexican government for this corner of Chiapas.After wandering into the impressive village square it did not take much persuasion to stop for a good cup of “American” coffee on a cool and drizzly day. It was a nice opportunity to chat with some of the other group members and Raul.Our next destination was the white church – the church of Saint John the Baptist - located just across the village square which was lined with vendors selling their merchandise. Notably it was all done in a quiet manner with no one approaching visitors or soliciting aggressively as is the manner in Mexico. As I said in an earlier blog, the Tzotzil are a quiet reserved people that are very much enveloped in his or her own fascinating culture. In another part of the square was an assembly of women participating in a voter registration campaign that would be another indication of this interesting mix of the old and the new in this society.The town square was a source of fascination also simply in the observation of the people so distinct in their local costumes. The most common fabric was the heavy furry-looking black woven wool that was worn by women as skirts or as a shawl and by men as a poncho.  The men usually topped that off with a straw-colored cowboy hat that made for a very smart appearance.It was now time for the highlight of our trip – after paying our minimal admission fee to Raul – the entry into the white church located on the village square.Before going inside, Raul solemnly had us gather around him to go over the rules of behavior to be followed in the church. Most important of all was to put away all evidence of photography and under no circumstances to show evidence of any camera or even think about taking a photo. Other than that, the advice was to act in a solemn manner keeping in mind that this was a place of worship. That would mean to observe quietly and to stay out of the way. The old phrase of “be seen but not heard” came to mind. We were also cautioned that the floor would be scattered with burning candles and not to knock over or disturb the candles. He also advised that should it happen that we were to notify him immediately.The olfactory senses were even more overwhelming than during the previous visit to a private house. Here there were three powerful ingredients – the smell of pine needles strewn on the floor, the burning incense and the smell of smoke. Subdued lighting, the slight blue haze of smoke, the lack of any pews or chairs, the floor covered in pine needles, the many candles burning on small patches of floor that had been cleared of pine needles, clusters of worshippers squatting on the floor, the chanting, the paintings of saints on the walls, the presence of numerous esoteric religious articles, the prayers of young and old, the consumption of posh and omnipresent Coca-Cola in the church, the old ladies with a firm grip on a squawking chicken in one hand and a knife in the other and yes, the ‘mayordomos” – the religious leaders, all contributed to the surrealistic scene which became the highlight of our trip. It should be noted that while several “mayordomos” were in attendance there is no sermon or even pulpit in the traditional catholic sense. There is only a presence and gentle guiding among small groups. I must state the obvious:  this is what was happening during our visit. There is probably a lot more beyond that.Yes this was the most fascinating mix of Catholic and Mayan religious beliefs practiced in this part of Chiapas. However, I must say that apart from the images of saints on the walls, I had difficulty in finding the Catholic part.When was the last time that you went to a Catholic mass and had a religious figure sacrifice a chicken in the church by cutting off its head? This is done in the belief that this would cure some illness or problems or exorcise the evil sprits from which the petitioner is suffering.The practitioners were all business and solemn in their demeanor. The men in general had a hint of a menacing look about them and while the urge was there to sneak a photo, discretion was the better part of valor. As part of Raul’s subtle and gentle way of doing things no one was rushed to leave and we easily lingered for half an hour trying to just let the scene envelop us in that realization that this was a unique maybe once in a lifetime experience.The only “crisis” was when Barbara came over and whispered in my ear, “I knocked over a candle with my foot, should I tell Raoul?” I quickly glanced around and seeing that the pine needles on the floor were not ablaze and no one seemed to have noticed I advised against it.Now a word about the “mayordomos” – they are the religious leaders of the community. Surprisingly they are elected and only serve - they are not paid - for one year. According to Raoul, Roman Catholic priests occasionally do perform baptisms in the church.Considering the reserved demeanor of the Tzotzil I am surprised that they allow tourists into the Church of Saint John the Baptist at all. The only reason that I can think of is pecuniary. Whatever the reason it is a visit not to pass up under any circumstances.Our next stop was the town of Zinacantan, located 11 kilometers northwest of Chamula. Whatever followed the visit to the church of Saint John the Baptist would be a tough act to follow and that is how it turned out. The rest the tour was very interesting but it did not match the intensity experienced in Chamula.Upon our arrival in Zinacantan there were actually three girls dressed in beautiful traditional dress who offered to pose for a photo for a few pesos. It was an opportunity that I could not pass up but I felt somewhat sheepish when no one else in the group decided to pony up. This was the only example of solicitation that we encountered in our visit to the two villages. Raul then took us to another “white” church that was similar to the church in Chamula in appearance but lacking the most important ingredient – people.  My only thought was that the order of this excursion should have been changed to save the best for last. The last turned out to be a visit to Artesanias “Ramo Textil” which was a great opportunity to observe how a Tzotzilian extended family lives and makes a living by producing beautiful textiles that are probably sold throughout the tourist destinations in Mexico.We began the tour in the “chapel” or place of worship that seems to be in every house. In this case it only took up a corner of a room, as there were items of a non-religious nature in the room. Nevertheless it shows the devotion that the Tzotzil have to their religion, which an outsider would view as a hybrid between Catholicism and Mayan practices.I found this part of the tour of great interest for it provided a peek into the life of a local family and I took full advantage of the opportunity to observe the details that left me with a very positive impression.Of note were: the profoundly rich colors of the weavings, the unexpected cleanliness worthy of a German “Hausfrau” that was in evidence everywhere, the walls of the house that were made of compacted mud, the chickens which had the run of the house and property, the beautiful examples of weavings in process, the intricate and backbreaking work that it took to produce the weavings, the labor intensive way of doing the laundry without any form of automation, the way of cooking the food over an open fire in an enclosed smoky room with only a little hole at the top to allow the smoke to escape, the best tacos I tasted in Mexico which were offered for a few pesos, the strips of meat curing over the open fire, the decorations made of maize in its three colors – black, burgundy and yellow and the calmness of the  people. It all left me with a good feeling of a well-run extended family, as all the generations were part of the scene.In conclusion I would simply have to say, “This was a day well spent”.We did indeed enjoy the day enough to try and replicate it on our own. This meant visiting another Tzotzilan town without a guide.  At the suggestion of the tourist bureau we took a local bus to the town of Larrainzar located about 35 kilometers northwest of San Cristobal de Las Casas. We appeared to be the only non-indigenous people in the town that made it difficult to keep a low profile.We found the typical white church but again it was mostly empty which considerably lowered the visual impact. What was very evident in this town was the assembled groups of “mayordomos” or religious leaders who seemed to be, for lack of a better expression, “just hanging around”.  Most fascinating but in no way was I tempted to pull out a camera to take a photo. Collectively they definitely have an air of mysticism about them that imparts respect and perhaps a dollop of fear just to keep the faithful and the non-faithful in line. Without “Raul” to take us a bit behind the scenes, our visit certainly lacked the impact of the previous day and we really felt like strangers in another world somewhat relieved to be back in San Cristobal de Las Casas.Feedback: travelswithlobo@yahoo.comComing Soon: The Na Bolom Museum
]]> San Cristobal de Las Casas - Na Bolom Museum — San Cristobal de las Casas, Central Mexico and Gulf Coast, Mexico http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1251157624/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1251157624/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lobo/excursions/1251157624/tpod.html Wed, 02 Sep 2009 15:02:46 -0400 EXCURSIONS: M E X I C O : 23 Destinations to Spend the Winter Months - a 55 Part Series - currentl

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