TravelStream™ news feed for member liammichelle on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/liammichelle en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Tue, 10 Jan 2006 15:22:26 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1135296000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1135296000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1135296000/tpod.html Tue, 10 Jan 2006 15:22:26 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Dublin, Ireland

So this is it, hard to believe our adventure is over.

Exactly 450 days
16 countries
5 continents
29 flights and
33 different modes of transport to get us back here to Dublin.
We were even millionaires in 2 countries!
(Unfortunately Ireland isn't one of them)

Alot of people have asked us what were the best bits, here's the top three:
1. Diving and snorkeling, Great Barrier Reef, Australia
2. Moreno Glacier, Argentina, South America
3. Microlight flight over Victoria Falls, Zambia, Africa

But for us the best bit and what we will remember is the kindness of others, to name but a few:
- Our friends Ian, Shirley, Amy, Damian, Ali and Damo in Melbourne.
- The Melbourne Murphys
- Stephen, Sophie, Mrs Pill, Tim and Tchilla in Brisbane
- Eugene in Perth
- Lara in Zimbabwe
- Andrew and The Saundersons in South Africa

We have learned that when you are far away from home there is nothing better than spending time with people who welcome you into their homes and show you places through local eyes.

One other person does deserve a mention, James Murphy who we hung out with in South America. Without him, we never would have heard of travelpod and you wouldn't be reading this now 15 months on. James, the race is still on!

So until the next trip, happy travelling to you all and keep in touch.

Michelle and Liam xx
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1135188000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1135188000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1135188000/tpod.html Tue, 10 Jan 2006 14:42:03 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Durban, South Africa

Spent the last three nights in The Royal Hotel in Durban. It's very posh with an Indian theme. Nice to chill out, relax, visit the beautician and hairdressers. Also managed to do the last of our shopping along the coast, at the markets and in local shopping centres. Andrew came back in and met us, we went to Wilsons Wharf for a thai lunch and The Pavillion Shopping Centre for an African diamond... relax guys one for around the neck not Michelle's finger! Said goodbye to Andrew, he has been really good to us and the favour will be returned when he comes to live in the UK.

Gone way beyond excited now, combined with alot of nerves but this is it we are waiting on a taxi to bring us home...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134635400/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134635400/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134635400/tpod.html Tue, 10 Jan 2006 14:33:14 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Pietermaritzberg, South Africa

Upon our return to South Africa we found ourselves on our own again, this time in Durban. Despite the fact that we were staying in the 'Southern Sun' Hotel, it was raining heavily (You wonder why we wear our raincoats in every photo).

The following day we were met by a familiar, friendly face. Andrew who we met on the Western Australia tour was home for a few weeks for Christmas and kindly offered to show us a bit of his home country. First stop his parents house in Pietermaritzberg, about an hour outside Durban.

Talk about being treated like royalty the Saundersons really welcomed us into their home. From delicious breakfasts on the veranda, fabulous home cooking (including the best tasting fudge and shortbread in the world), roast dinners, shopping and even some cricket! Spent a great day driving through the scenic midlands meander, the old road from Durban to Johannesburg. Got to see a part of South Africa which is beautiful, quite similar to Ireland and well off the standard backpacker trail. Had a delicious German sausage lunch, did some cheese tasting, more shopping including a hammock for Liam and got to see Howic Falls, the tallest waterfall in SA.

Going to be hard to leave Pietermaritzberg, but the east coast awaits....
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134894420/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134894420/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134894420/tpod.html Tue, 10 Jan 2006 14:32:02 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Coffee Bay, South Africa

We decided to gatecrash Andrew's pre Christmas roadtrip to the east coast with his friends Laura, Gary (originally from Zim) and Fiona (originally from Scotland). Silly us thought we'd spend a few days winding down, but this trip turned out to be quite eventful and would give any overland trip a run for it's money!

Andrew drove, tailing Gary 2.5hrs to Umzumbe, where we stayed in a top class hostel. Cabins provided private accommodation and someday we'll have to make a return trip to stay in the tree houses which are being built at the moment. In true tradition 'We men, we make fire', the lads cooked some steak and sausage on the braai. Michelle had to give up at an early stage and left the others enjoying their beers and wine which eventually lead to midnight swims and jacuzzis!

Friday was a public holiday here in South Africa, it began rather roughly for Fiona and Liam who were feeling the effects from the night before. Our first time in African waters sort of sobered them up but a lunch a Wippys did the trick. Continued our roadtrip through Mthatha, Nelson Mandelas, home town which is beginning to show the first signs of Christmas. Our journey through the Transki was fantastic, with numerous huts along the roadside. Plenty of new schools are being built through government funding, lets hope they get the teachers to fill them. Encountered a really bad storm, so the view was taken over by fog and heavy rainfall.

Night two was spent in what can only be described as a hippy compound in Coffee Bay. We would have made a quick getaway the following morning but Liam decided the have a replay of Milford Sounds, New Zealand and locked the keys in the car. Despite desperate attempts by every local we could bribe, no one could open the lock of Andrew's Mam's car. After about 5 hours a locksmith arrived and left rather well off! To lighten our spirits we climbed up the hill to check out the view of Coffee Bay, went for a delicious seafood lunch and visited the infamous Hole in the wall. (No, not the pub in Dublin!) Once again drove back through Mthatha which had no petrol or water... what else could go wrong!

Last stop Port St Johns. Once again we found ourselves in a lovely hostel. Ended up in a rather deserted, yet nice restaurant downing plenty of wine and champagne. Returned to the hostel for a game of trivial pursuit, it is nearly Christmas after all. Our last day began on a walking expedition to a fabric shop, which the guide book lied about! We then went on a long drive, abandoned the car and went for a rather long walk which ended at a runway which had fantastic views out over Port St John. Just as things were beginning to look up, Lauras car stalled and we ended up finding the dodgiest mechanic who solved the problem and once again we were on the road. It was midnight before poor Andrew dropped us off in Durban, he must have had a very sore head listening to Liam, who talked for Ireland in an attempt to keep our driver alert and awake...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134413280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134413280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134413280/tpod.html Tue, 10 Jan 2006 11:05:10 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

On our last official tour day we all got together for traditional dinner at one of the local hotels. Joined by Lara's Mam and nephew Phil who had driven up from Bulawayo to collect her. It could have been wonderful and well worth the 19 million we paid for it if they hadn't rushed us out the door mid glass of wine. Retired to the hostel for a few drinks.

Sunday began with Michelle and Dom awake with the birds, typically when you could have a lie on you can't sleep. When Liam surfaced all three walked the short distance through the town to Vic Falls, on route we met Lara and co. It was great to visit the falls with some native Zims who are so passionate about their country despite all the politics. The falls themselves had more water in them than we were led to believe. It is almost 2km wide with a 100 metre drop into the narrow Batoka Gorge. The cooling, damp spray was welcomed in the mid morning heat. At the moment the water level is low but apparently when the Zambezi is flooded the spray can go up 500 metres into the air. It took us 2.5 hours to walk around, the number of photos taken may have something to do with the length of time! Went for lunch in the touristy town of Victoria Falls which was great value for money and gave us a chance to sample the local cordial 'mazoe' and some local beer. Said cheerio to Dom, who along with Bert joins a new Kamuka tour group to continue their trip through Zimbabwe, Mozambique and back into Johannesburg in time for Christmas.

In the evening we joined Lara and family, Glen, Grant and Justine for sundowners in the beautiful Victoria Lodge. Followed by dinner at the well known and highly recommended Boma. Got to sample ostrich and warthog which was delicious. Got our fortunes told by a Matabele witch doctor for about US 25 cent! Great traditional experience with local singers, dancers and story tellers. Even Phil had a go dancing and playing drums.

This morning we said our final goodbyes, as our crew make their way back to Cape town with a new bunch of questioning tourists. Our wonderful local guides Lara and Glen kindly drove us to the airport. Here Michelle's on going problems with British Airways continued, thankfully we found the whole scenario hilarious.
- Basically to limit the details we bought a flight on the internet in Namibia.
- Numerous phonecalls to extremely rude staff members who at one point told us if we need a BA telephone number go look it up in a directory and then hung up.
- Eventually they accepted payment and confirmed out seats.
- Got a quick, one off glimpse at our email in Botswana to be told they'd cancelled the payment and we'd have to sort it out at the airport.
- Upon arrival at the airport, the staff informed us that we should have sorted it out in the town, we had called into their office that morning and dealt with the same staff!
- They insisted on cash which we didn't have because BA had told us to pay by credit card.
- The man then told us that the machine was slow, even though he was using an old fashioned manual swipe card machine!
- Finally we got on the flight.

At Johannesburg we will say goodbye to Grant and Justine who with their giraffes will continue on to Perth and Liz who returns to the UK. One thing has got to be said about overlanding, if you've got a good group of traveling companions you can't go too wrong.. and that we did have. Next stop the province of Kwazulu-Natal...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134267960/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134267960/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134267960/tpod.html Mon, 09 Jan 2006 07:36:55 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Victoria Falls, Zambia

Yet another and hopefully our last early morning rise to beat the pink buses to the Zimbabween border. (The pink buses are a tour group from Scandanavia who travel in convoy... not as good as it sounds boys!) At which we argued our 'We are Irish' case with the official to be told 'you charge us into your country so we'll charge you'! Couldn't really win on that one so paid our US$110 entry visa fee. One of the only countries we have had to pay for a visa.

Spent our first day at Victoria Falls in the hostel hiding from the torrential rainfall and amazing thunderstorm. All fled from our tents having delta flashbacks and checked ourselves into room accommodation. Our booze oops sorry 'sunset cruise' was eventually cancelled and we ate the worse meal ever at the hostel... missing Nicholas already! Following some dressing up (don't ask) we went to bed, dreaming of our big day tomorrow.

Sometimes it is worth getting up before the sun, for Michelle it is a half hour micro-light trip over Vic Falls. Crossed the famous bridge and managed to get a quick glimpse of the falls on the short trip to Zambia. Without a doubt her best experience, Michelle found herself free and exposed as she flew over the falls. It was the closest thing to having wings! Brilliant way to see one of the natural wonders of the world, the spray, Livingstone Island, Zambezi River and various posh hotels. Then flew over Long Island and saw giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, zebras and even a bird and her chicks in a nest. They are look pretty small from above. Having told the pilot that she'd done a few flying lessons, he let her take control, that was it, her trip was made!

Meanwhile, not so happy Liam was rafting the Grade 5+ infamous Zambezi River. He started out river boarding but after a counseling session from Dr. Dom, he stayed alive by rafting instead. When all is said and done the three lads returned bruised, broken skin, sun burnt, exhausted and sick having drank half the river.... but it was still 'the best day ever'!!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134094380/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134094380/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1134094380/tpod.html Tue, 03 Jan 2006 18:06:59 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Chobe National Park, Botswana

Hard to believe we've reached day 18 of the trip, it brought another long drive from Maun to Chobe National Park. Plenty of petrol station stops along the way. Stumbled upon a herd of 30+ elephants which was pretty cool. Lawrence was on top form slamming on the brakes so Michelle is now black and blue from falling off the chair! Quick stop at the town of Kasane where we were greated by a family of warthogs right in the middle of the street!

Our campsite at Chobe Safari Lodge was fantastic, powerful hot showers, great pool, bar and facilities on a brilliant location right beside the Chobe river. Our day began with a 6am game drive through the park. We saw plenty of hippos, hyenas, impalas and Japanese tourists. One wouldn't want to take offence on our trip... Grant was filming a hippo when Michelle's head got in the way and he announced 'hard to know which is the hippo!'. To which Liam defended and replied 'for a giraffe he's very rude'. Grant is about 6 ft 4!

After the drive we all chilled out by the pool and enjoyed a hot shower. In the afternoon we went on a three hour cruise along the Chobe river. Saw loads of crocodiles, hippos, baboons and elephants with their babies. As if it was about to be taken away from us, plenty of alcohol was consumed in Chobe and a good time was had by all.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133926200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133926200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133926200/tpod.html Tue, 03 Jan 2006 18:06:37 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Maun, Botswana

On day 14 of the trip we crossed the Namibian border into Botswana. The long drive to Maun allowed for plenty of reading and journal updates. Stayed at the Swatatunga campsite which is run by two Kiwis. Their chef Grace gave Nicholas a night off and cooked us a delicious steak and rice supper with homemade bread and a top class garlic dressing. She even provided desert which we haven't had in months.

5.30am start the following morning as we set off on our two night trip into the Okavango Delta. We brought the bare essentials as instructed and packed plenty of sunscreen following our guide Michelle's last words, 'Everybody leaves the delta sun burnt'. Bet you maybe beginning to see where this entry is heading!

Drove 2.5 hours into the delta where we met our polers. A further 1.5 hours in a traditional makoro brought us to our campsite. The canoe like boats were extremely comfortable, we both lay back, stretched out our legs and had a little snooze. Just as we had located our campsite and luckily pitched our tents it started.... yes you guessed it, it rained, lashed, poured, bucketed whatever you wished to call it. It stopped for a few moments which enabled lunch and a quick game of Okavango Rounders. The rules where made up as we went along while the polers looked on in hysterics. Mid game a lone elephant was spotted in the distance.

At 4.30pm we donned long trousers, closed shoes and a raincoat for some of us fortunate enough to bring one and began our guided walk into the delta. Half an hour into the walk it rained again. We were all soaked through, cameras were destroyed (thankfully not ours, we've been there done that) and humors were dampened. All the animals had obviously sought shelter and we had to settle for plantlife, trees and hoof prints. We returned to the camp at 7pm to discover that Nicholas had cooked what was supposed to be coleslaw and potatoe salad. Good on him, despite the elements a plate of boiled potatoes, cabbage and carrots was passed into our tents!

Rain is not common in southern Africa as we all know, so our tents were not up to it. The fly sheets are too close to the mosquito nets which means drops of water fall into the tent itself. Alot of sleeping bags and ground mats were soaked. Despite going to bed at 7pm, Liam woke a few times during the night. Most people who needed the toilet (or should we say hole in the ground) settled for a bush beside their tent incase an elephant or lion decided to visit. It made for some interesting meetings during the night.

The rain held off at 2am on Day 16. We all got up at 5am. Nicholas once again did a top class job and cooked beans and eggs over the fire. He hadn't even served it up when the rain commenced again. Everyone fled for their tents while Grant and himself passed breakfast through our tents. It rained heavily all morning and because everyone had only brought two sets of clothes (remember... 'everyone get's sun burnt in the delta'!!!) we decided to attempt a return to Maun. There is after all only so much national anthem singing one can do to amuse ourselves!

Brian and Mike our guides we later discovered travelled miles to get us transport out of the delta. After 7 hours we began to accept the fact that we'd be spending another night confined to our muggy, dripping wet tents. But just as the lads finished a game of delta donkey and the sun was just about beginning to dry our clothes, a truck appeared like a mirage. Michelle changed out of here tankini top and pyjama bottoms (desperate times) and the camp was packed onto the truck in record time. Our disappointment of having to give into the elements was lightened by plenty of giraffe, elephant, zebra and even an ostrich family on our evacuation journey. Return to Maun and got the chance to upgrade to a nice dry chalet.

Day 17: should have been our return from the delta, turned into a lazy day drying to find shade, get washing done and a quick trip into Maun. Following our hot dog lunch we drove to the local airport and boarded a small aircraft. Lara kindly gave Michelle the front seat. Liam quickly got over his first time on a small aircraft nerves and we all enjoyed the hour long flight over the delta. It gave us a good impression of what we could have seen. Unfortunately due to the recent rains the animals have no need to visit the waters so we didn't see as many animals as we would have liked. Did however see elephants, giraffes, zebra, impalas, our first sighting of hippos and even a person.

A top class roast chicken meal was served once again by Grace. Another early night because we've a long drive ahead tomorrow...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133584200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133584200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133584200/tpod.html Tue, 03 Jan 2006 18:06:20 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Divundu, Namibia

Begrudgingly we left Etosha. Our roadside lunch stops have been providing great entertainment for the locals. Children come running over to the truck waiting for their photos to be taken and a look at themselves on the digital camera.

Stopped off in Rundu, a hectic town but as Dom said it was our first taste of Africa rather than Afrikaans. Stayed at a scenic campsite on the Okavango River bordering Angola. Liam tried a bit of fishing and swam in the protected cage while you could hear the hippos along the river bank...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133575200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133575200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/liammichelle/africa05/1133575200/tpod.html Tue, 03 Jan 2006 18:05:55 -0500 Short cut home through Africa

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Etosha National Park, Namibia

Wow, wow, wow! We were told that Etosha was good and days 11 and 12 gave us a real taste for Africa. The best investment we have made since leaving home was a zoom lens for the camera and it has been zoomed so much lately.

On the drive into Etosha we saw giraffe, springbok, warthog, gemsbok and kudu. Kudu look quite beautiful and we've eaten kudu steak along the way! It was wonderful to see the animals along the side of the road, just like we'd see cattle or sheep grazing back home.

Stayed in the Okaukuejo and Namutoni campsites located in the park itself. The facilities were excellent and possibly the best camping grounds we've seen around the world with running water, hot showers, shops, bars and swimming pools. Met a girl Lynn from Carlow who is a guide for another overland company. Turns out she knows our college buddy Keith... 'it's a small, small world'.

Fair play to Grant who came running back from the watering hole to inform us that an elephant had wandered in for some refreshment. He was accompanied by some springbok, warthogs and zebras. You can sit (yes benches are provided) about 15 metres away from the watering hole which gives you a great view without getting too near the animals. 'Nelly' was amazing, could have watched her for hours. So formed our first 'Big 5' sighting.

Our afternoon game drive in our own truck produced number 2. A male lion sitting under a tree. Fantastic to be so close to these animals in their natural habitat. Number 3 was spotted after dinner. Back at the watering hole a mother and daughter rhino. Just before bed they had moved on and were replaced by the Daddy rhino.

Our second early morning drive allowed us to see hartebeest, steenbok, hyena, bat earred fox and various bird species. Our driver Laurence is brilliant at spotting animals and with 6 years experience he knows where to go. We met numerous groups who had seen nothing in Etosha.

After lunch we got a chance to sit in the sunshine and cool off in the pool. Bolloc ball was even played in the pool... don't ask! We made our way across the park to our second campsite while spotting impalas, damaras dik dik, secretary birds and bustards. Liam in true 'David Attenborough' style was pretty good at spotting the animals. We had some wonderful up close moments as elephants crossed in front of our truck and giraffes ran alongside. This was how we'd imagined Africa...
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