TravelStream™ news feed for member lance_fan on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/lance_fan en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 11 May 2006 21:20:23 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1147230960/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1147230960/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1147230960/tpod.html Thu, 11 May 2006 21:20:23 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Portland, Oregon, United States

5/9A long flight back to Portland, via Miami and San Francisco. The adventure is over, at least this one. It was great. In 14 weeks I visited 7 countries in South America, plus the continent of Antarctica. I traveled 34,000 miles (that's more than going around the world). I have been in the southernmost city in the world (Ushaia) and the southernmost national park (Tierra del Fuego), traveled round the southernmost point of the continent (Cape Horn), been pickpocketed at the highest capital in the world (La Paz), paddled a canoe on the highest lake in the world (Lake Titicaca), carried dynamite and fell down a mine shaft (not still carrying the dynamite) in a silver mine in the highest city in the world (Potosi), and stood with feet in both hemisphere near Quito. I had a tango lesson in Buenos Aires and attempted to samba at a club at 3 am in Rio at Carnival. I have mountain biked in the Andes, and down the highest volcano in the world. I have snorkeled with dolphins and seal lions in the Galapagos. I have traveled by plane, ship, canoe, reed boat, bike, rickshaw, taxi, bus, ferry, raft, train, hiked and swam. I have seen condors and ostriches in Patagonia, hundreds of penguins in Antarctica, llamas and alpaca and guanacos in the highlands of Peru, albatrosses in the Falklands, monkeys in the Amazon basin, flamingos in remote Bolivia, and iguanas and giant tortoises and birds with blue feet in the Galapagos. And I have met some wonderful people, the many children I encountered on the hike to Macchu Picchu, and the amazing porters who ran while carrying 50 lbs on their back up peaks at 14,000 feet, shopkeepers and waiters who were so patient with me while I tried to order in Spanish, guides who put up with my wandering off or running ahead while they were trying to keep some order in the group, and new traveling friends from all the world. Thanks to Jo and Cheryl for always smiling no matter what on that cruise ship, to Martin and Kate for loaning me money (and calming me down while in panic mode) when I was a few dollars from being completely broke in La Paz and Lima, to Leon for taking care of me while I was sick as a dog in the Amazon rainforest, to (darn, cannot remember his name, but he was a rugby player from England) for climbing another 200 feet straight up rocks after hiking all day in high altitudes just so I could say I had made it 15,000 feet, to Jim for keeping me sane when I was about to jump ship off the coast of Chile, to Josephine who kept finding things I had forgotten to pick up (like cameras and wallets and journals and such...) and for watching my back so I could take photos safely in Bolivia and for continually worrying about me (for good reason), to Michael who challenged me to some long swims in the Galapagos and taught me a bunch of new words so I can speak a little british (like mingers and wengy and dodgy), to Sophie for showing me where to buy the best chocolate cake in Quito, and to a whole bunch of others who made traveling alone not nearly so lonely, including many of you who have emailed me along the road. And to my sister Judy who kept track of everything at home for me while I played in another hemisphere. Thank you all.Until my next adventure,Adios,ScottP.S. Final MileagesFlights 19712 milesShip 9783Bus 1765Boats/Rafts 97Taxis/Vans 1249Bike 56Walk 203Train/Subway 310Pedicab 2Total miles - 33,176
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1147137120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1147137120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1147137120/tpod.html Thu, 11 May 2006 21:13:43 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Lima, Peru

5/8 Fly to Lima, spend the night in preparation for a long day of travel tomorrow. Kind of crazy to go south from Quito about 600 miles to Lima so I can fly north the next day almost over Quito to get to Miami, but that's the price of using frequent flier miles. Saved lots of money, but the flights are not quite so direct.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146887700/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146887700/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146887700/tpod.html Thu, 11 May 2006 21:12:47 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Quito, Ecuador

May 5-8, Quito, Ecuador5/4 back in quitoA few more facts about Quito¡Kit towers about 9,000-10,000 feet elevation, which means walking up the stairs in the hotel can sometimes be a challenge, especially after ten days at sea level in the Galapagos. I needed to get my mountain lungs back again. And because of the elevation even though the city is nearly on the equator, it is quite cool, between 50-70 degrees.5/5Mountain biking down the highest active Volcano in the world, Cotopaxi, Ecuador.Great fun. 29 km mostly downhill, starting at 4600m. Just hold on tight and try not to wipe out in the mud or rocks, or worse, go over the cliffs¡K I enjoyed just putting the camera in the van, and trying to keep up with the young Dutch boys who were racing down the mountain¡K they were kind of surprised when I passed them fº. I can see why people really love mountain biking, it is so fun to bounce over rocks and ruts, and splash through streams, and losing it in the mud, all at full speed.5/6A trip to market day at Otovalo, about 60 miles north of the city. Literally hundreds of shopping booths lined street after street in this medium sized town. Mostly handicrafts, but some food. The bus ride was crazy, the driver passed on the left when there were cars and trucks coming our direction (they just had to move out of the way when he honked), he took corners so fast it was hard to stay in our seats, but we did make good time¡K.5/7 Quito on a Sunday, went the opposite direction of the tourist zone, to see how normal Quito residents live. After walking through a shopping center (just like ours) I found their main city park. Reminds me of central park, though not quite that big. Still, took me a few hours to get from the north boundary to the south. On the way I strolled through markets booths and food sellers, past literally hundreds of soccer fields (all filled up), dozens of basketball and volleyball courts, a huge skateboard park, a bmx track, a lake with paddleboats, running paths, bicycle lanes, a tropical garden, a childrens¡¦ carnival area, lots and lots of green space, and thousands of Ecuadorians enjoying their Sunday afternoon. It was great fun to see everybody out playing. A few blocks after leaving the park, I found the city had closed off one of their major north-south thoroughfares to car/bus traffic, and opened it to bicycles only. So more thousands of Quito residents having fun riding their bike through the city. Apparently they do this twice a month, on a Sunday afternoon. I wish I had my bike¡K.Later in the afternoon, like clockwork, the clouds grayed up, and a thunder/lightning/bucket of rain storm occurred, as it has every day I have been here. You could just about set your clock by it. It will happen between 4 and 5pm, and last about an hour, then it will clear up, and be nice for the rest of the evening.One of my scariest adventures took place late in the afternoon, I had gone 6 weeks without a haircut, and I was looking pretty scruffy. So I decided to just walk into a barber shop, and hope for the best. I was greeted by a woman in her early 20¡¦s, who asked me how I would like my hair cut, at least I think she was asking that. She might have been saying ¡§how would you like your eggs¡¨ for all I know. I tried my limited Spanish to ask for a ¡¥trim¡¦. Our conversation was not working, so she pulled out a book with photos of different hairstyles for men. Of course, all the men were models about 25 years old¡Kso I picked one that I would like to look like, and she smiled and cut away. At first I was really panicked, she seemed to be cutting off so much. But I just closed my eyes and hoped for the best. She snipped and cut, and ran the electric cutter through my hair, for a half an hour (it usually takes about ten minutes, at most, back home). Well, the end result was great, I have not had that good a haircut in the states. Usually it is uneven and ragged in places, and never quite balanced side to side. Her¡¦s was perfect, and she kept at it until it was perfect, getting to the point of cutting individual hairs, at least it seemed that way. Then she finished up by pulling out this huge knife blade, and shaving around the edges so they were perfect too. And for all this she charged me a whopping one dollar!!!! I would like to take her home with me.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146801060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146801060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146801060/tpod.html Thu, 04 May 2006 23:55:13 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Santa Cruz Island, Ecuador

5/4 Santa Cruz IslandLast day. Back to Santa Cruz island to disembark. Quick visit to see some giant tortoises on the way to the airport. Then across the ferry, onto Baltras island, flight 33 to Quito on AirGal..... Goodbye Galapagos.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146713280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146713280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146713280/tpod.html Thu, 04 May 2006 23:31:15 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Floreana Island, Ecuador

5/3 Floreana IslandGreat snorkeling on a small island off Floreana Island, very clear. Lots and lots of beautiful fish. Sorry, don't have an underwater camera, you'll have to trust me...Visited post office bay. There is a barrel full of postcards and letters with no stamps. Here's how it works. You deposit your letters and postcards into the barrel. And you look for letters and postcards from others that are in your hometown, or in a place you know you will be visiting soon. You pick up those and hand-deliver them as soon as you are able. Future visitors who happen to live near me are to pick up my postcards, and bring them to me.Hope that made sense. I picked up 4 postcards to deliver when I get back home.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146614160/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146614160/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146614160/tpod.html Thu, 04 May 2006 23:27:36 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Espanola Island, Ecuador

5/2 Espanola IslandFirst stop was snorkeling around Gordon rock. Galapagos sea lions and huge numbers of tropical fish, with great visibility. Then onto the beach on Espanola island. Perfect white sand, turquoise waters, lots of sea lions and marine iguanas, an incredibly beautiful spot.Last stop for the day, Punta Suarez, Espanola Island. This was probably the highlight of the whole Galapagos Islands, photos will not capture how beautiful this spot is. Hundreds upon hundreds of sea lions, and an equal number of marine iguanas. The sea lions were curious and more than once came right up to me and sniffed my leg and shoes. The iguanas were so thick they were hard not to step on. Beyond this we were entertained by the Waved albatross, who pair up and, at only this time of year, do a mating dance that is extremely complicated, and fascinating to watch. They approach each other, and these are quite large birds, with their heads and necks swinging wildly, kind of like a drunken swagger. Then they both point their beaks straight up into the air. This is followed by their beaks being opened wide, and then sort of a sword fight of beaks. This goes on for quite some time before they decide to actually do the mating itself. The scenery of the this shore includes a huge blow-hole that shoots water hundreds of feet into the air, we were told that sometimes marine iguanas get too close and learn a flying lesson. The albatross are flying in great numbers along the cliffs, and there are a number of other birds as well (frigates, boobies, gulls). As we went along we encountered multiple nests of blue-footed boobies, with the chicks just hatched and peering out below the mother, or potentially the father, which also minds the chicks. Our last sight on this beach was a wonderfully orange sunset. As beautiful as this place is, the sad thing is that the park is deliberating as to whether is should stay open to the public or not. There is talk of restricting the island to only park personnel for the next 20 years, because of how fragile the ecosystems are. I feel fortunate to have seen it while it was still open.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146527580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146527580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146527580/tpod.html Thu, 04 May 2006 19:55:45 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

San Cristobal Island, Ecuador

5/1 San Cristobal IslandSpent the day at San Cristobal island, and the little port city there. Visited the interpretative center, which dealt mainly with the islands' history, both natural and human. The Galapagos are basically the tops of mountains in the sea, that just happen to be high enough to stick out of the water. They were, and are still being, formed by volcanic activity, as the many craters and black volcanic rock give evidence of. The islands are believed to be between 5 and 10 million years old, with volcanic activity still going on to this day, an eruption occurred just a few months ago. All plant and animal life came to these islands from somewhere else. And despite the unique nature of the wildlife here, there are really a very limited number of species. There are no amphibians, and very few mammals (especially if you take away what has been introduced by man in the last few hundred years). Oddly, there were no insects at all, until man unwittingly carried them here over the last few hundred years. All species, of both plant and animal, came to this island, and according to Darwin and other scientists, adapted to the unique environment here, forming new and different species. Many animals only exist on one or two islands. There is a theory that during the last ice age, about 20,000 years ago, that the oceans were much lower, the water being locked up in ice further from the equator. This leaves the possibility that for some period of time, there would have been a land bridge that allowed some species to travel here from the continent. As the ice age ended, the land bridge disappeared, and these species were left to deal with their new environment. The Galapagos islands were discovered in 1535, by a Spanish captain, who only had negative things to say about his visit. Partly, I believe, because he and his crew were in desperate need of fresh water, and there is not much here. But also because there was nothing obvious that would bring any wealth to Spain. He described the penguins he found as 'stupid' because they were so slow on land, and because they did not even have the sense to run away from them. He also thought the iguanas the most hideous creatures he had ever seen. The Galapagos were uninhabited formally for hundreds of years after that, except by pirates, who used these islands as a base for raiding Spanish ships. Since that time, the island has been used as a penal colony for criminals from Ecuador, and have 'survived' several unsuccessful attempts to be settled for industrial or agricultural uses. However, over the centuries, multiple species are now extinct because of human activities here, similar to the American Bison, where there were thought to be so many that they could be captured or killed indefinitely... Some species are extinct because of creatures introduced by man, such as rats and goats, that have essentially eaten the vegetation necessary for the survival of certain species. Since 1959 the islands have been declared a national park by Ecuador, though only in the past 20 years or so has there been real enforcement of conservationist policies. Tourist use on two of the islands that I visited are probably going to be suspended for 20 years or so, in order to ensure that some of the fragile ecosystems are not damaged irreparably.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146440940/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146440940/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146440940/tpod.html Thu, 04 May 2006 19:53:15 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Santa Cruz and Santa Fe islands, Ecuador

4/30 Santa Cruz and Santa Fe islands South Plaza Island is a very small island just off Santa Cruz island. It is arid to the point of looking like a desert. The only animal life I encountered were marine and land iguanas, and a hybrid of the two that can neither swim nor reproduce. Lots of bird life on the steep cliff side of the island. Frigates and doves and gulls and blue-footed boobies, and many more.Went deep water snorkeling at Gordon Rock, off Santa Cruz island, which was incredible. First time we had blue skies and great visibility under water. I circumnavigated the island, took about 45 minutes. Saw lots of fish, and the most fun was swimming with sea lions, probably 10-15 of them. Underwater they would come up to within a few feet to check me out, then do flips and twirls and literally put on a show. I wish I had an underwater camera. Later in the afternoon, more snorkeling at Santa Fe island. I swam with green sea turtles and manta rays, and even a group of white tipped sharks, which I ran into accidentally. I really mean, ran into. I literally swam right into the side of a shark, probably a 6 footer. In this one section the water was quite murky and I could not see very far in front of me. I moved from there to a reef with the best snorkeling I have ever experienced. Clear blue water and great visibility, and thousands and thousands of fish, from tiny to large, with an occasional sea lion running by to check us out.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146354180/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146354180/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146354180/tpod.html Thu, 04 May 2006 19:49:13 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Santiago Island, Ecuador

4/29 Santiago and Bartolemew islands Started with a hike on to the top of a volcanic island (Bartolemew), and saw craters, and old lava flows. On the way someone spotted a pod of bottled-nosed dolphins swimming nearby, so we ran to the inflatable boats and found them. I and one other of our party dove in, and swam with the dolphins! We also saw the dolphins jump into the air in front of us (see the photos!!!)On the same island while snorkeling I saw the Galapagos penguin, the only penguin that exists (just barely) above the equator, and can exist in the warm waters around the Galapagos. It is amazing to remember seeing all the penguins in Antarctica and then seeing one in this warm climate. I got to swim with a penguin for a bit, then it popped out of the water onto a rock where it could warm up. A short hike across to the other side of the island and we saw a couple of pods of white tipped sharks, and more marine iguanas.The afternoon found us in a mangrove swamp off Santiago island, where we saw golden and eagle rays, sharks, and some green sea turtles.That evening, while we were sitting looking at the moon, a yellow snake came swimming by, right where we had been swimming earlier. Turned out to be a tiger eel, which is not dangerous, but it was still a snake...eeks!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146267240/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146267240/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/lance_fan/s_america_2006/1146267240/tpod.html Thu, 04 May 2006 19:43:08 -0400 My journey to South America and Antartica. I will be traveling from Rio de Janeiro, clockwise around the continent to Quito, Ecuador, with many stops in between. A 14 week journey!

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Santa Cruz Island, Ecuador

4/28 Santa Cruz IslandThe beach is bright white, the ocean turquoise, the rocks volcanic black, and the sky a bright perfect blue. It is pristine. First we had a nature hike where we found a tree whose leaves turn vertical during the heat of the day to protect it from the intense rays of the sun, then horizontal in early evening. We saw bright red crabs (salty lightfoot crabs) running over the sharp rocks. And marine iguanas, these big lizards can swim! Lots of different kinds of birds, including flamingos. After Siesta we went deep water snorkeling, and swam with sea lions, amazing. There were other fish, but the sea lions were the most fun. Another person in my party saw a hammerhead shark, but I didn't, just as well.Our last activity for the day was a hike on Seymour Island. The Galapagos is famous for its wildlife, and we saw plenty of it. We were greeted by Galapagos sea lions as we got out of the boat, and at times there were so many it was hard to walk through them on the trail. We saw two different kinds of iguanas, a marine iguana, and a giant yellow land iguana. We saw two types of birds that were quite unique. The first dives straight down into the ocean to catch fish, has bright blue webbed feet, and lucky for me, happening to be doing their courting rituals while I was there (they only go through this ritual 3 weeks a year). This bird is called a blue-footed booby. The other bird was the magnificent frigate, and the male of the species has this enormous red sack that it uses to draw attention of the females (see the photos), it is such an oddity. What an amazing place! I can see why Darwin was so impressed while here.
]]>