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Darchen, China

I see is what my limited vision makes me to and nothing beyond. Masters say you can see beyond, only if you have attained high degree of spirituality. For lesser humans like me whatever I see I treasure. And thus thinking, I wake up, quietly meditating on our circumambulation of Mount Kailash. Dreamily I go through the mountain trail over and over again and relive those moments. The panoramic view of the rugged landscape is deeply etched in my memory that I can recall it with uncanny vividness. I explore its valleys and gorges, bare mountains with snow or without, each bend of the mountain trail, its steep ascent, precipitous descent, boulders, granite walls of rock, the streams of sparkling clear water with beautifully sculpted round pebbles within its depths meandering through the valley, the waterfalls cascading in whiff of sprays, the noisy rattling stones falling from hill tops, the echo of the mantras reverberating through the mountains and so on, as though viewing an endless reel of film. I thank the almighty for His grace in making all this possible. My feet, especially the toes are sore; entire body is stiff and aching; all the cells are working hard to keep the body parts intact; I am keeping up a brave front and treading on like a robot but I seem to be unmindful of all this. Perhaps mind is too tired and is disconnected from the comforts of the body.   We bid adieu to our camp,Zong Zerbu, early in the morning. It is the most pleasant trek of about 13 km on almost level grounds in Zon-Chu valley. Changing scenery is fascinating. Each bend is full of thrilling grandeur. The gently rolling hills glow with beautiful colours of all imaginable hues.  Under the shadows of these hills are green meadows. Sheep and yaks are dotted all over them nibbling nutritious fodder in the warmth of the bright sunshine. The sky looks white and empty. It's a clear day but for a few wafer-thin clouds floating towards the horizon. A soft cool air wafts past, whispering sweetly in the ear.   Not very far from our path is a family of mountain-jack (member of weasel family) enjoying their morning frolics and running about in their peaceful playfields. They do not take notice of us in the beginning but latter, seeing the procession of our caravan, seem disturbed and immediately hide inside their burrows.Soon after however, some warily peep out to see if we are still around. Zon-chu is a lively stream with clear emerald green waters and is our constant company. The entire trek is indeed a trekker's paradise.   Darchen is in sight at last. The low-hills converge to form a bottle neck for the River Zon-chu which kept us company so far. It emerges and fans out in the Barkha plains in many rills over a large area which joins Tarchen-chu and La-chu to finally drain in to Rakshas-Tal. Rakshas- Tal is the destination of all the streams originating from mount Kailash. From here we have the grand view of Barkha plains extending from east to west as far as eyes can see, intercepted by web of meandering streams. It looks green from this height and is bordered by khaki hillocks gradually rising to the silvery snows of Gurla-Mandhata peaks. The emerald green Rakshas-tal in the middle adds up to the romantic view of the expansive landscape which Devine Nature has so beautifully set. Mt Kailash peeps from behind the hills as if to say here I am again.   Ashtpad  In the evening we set out for Ashtapad by Toyota cruiser. In Jain literature Kailash is called Ashtapada. The first Jain Tirthankar is said to have attained nirvana in Kailash. Ashtapada is about 12 km by motor road which terminates by the edge of a stream and from there we climb a very steep path of over one kilometre.   As we reach the top of the climb we are rewarded with a very close and spectacular view of the southern face of Mt Kailash. Sparkling with brilliant radiance it looks awesome, remote and forbidden. It literally takes away the breath as our eyes meet the grandeur of the setting.  Ice-cap of Mt Kailash stands on the pedestal of bald colourfully banded rocks. As sun sets, snows on Mt Kailash wear the colour of the setting sun and the golden hue is tender, softer, and much more alluring than the sight of sun setting behind the hills. Here we are at a height of about 16000 ft. and it is extremely cold.We perform puja and return to Darchen.   As evening sets in  the sky is ablaze with riot of colours. The hills too are afire with the glow. Far away the lake is red as sun rays fall on it. The entire scene enthrals the heart and imagination of the beholder. Gradually the grand magic show of amazing sunset comes to an ends and as the night falls the stars begin to rule the sky. This is how, I muse, the sun says goodnight to the earth and its inhabitants. It is indeed a grand finale of the Kailash parikrama which nature seems to have set for us at the end of fourteenth day of our yatra.
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Almora, India

It is the ninth day of the waning moon. We reach our first day's camp in KMVN, tourist's bungalow in Almora, late in the evening. It is pitch dark out side and cold and damp inside. There is a calm and quietness about this place. During the rainy season clouds spread their wings all over. They cling on the mountains for days, even enter inside the houses and stay their uninvited. The faint odour of the dampness lingers every where in the dormitory. We are four occupants in the dormitory in eastern wing of the Guest House. Each one of us is busy with his private chain of thoughts, as are other thirty yatris in their cocoons, somewhere in other suites of the guest house. It has been a long and an eventful day. It is not the end of the day yet as I sit in the dormitory under a dim light of bulbs and reflect on the day's proceedings. The whole scenario passes through in front of me as if I watch every thing from far off. &nbsp; Ah, what a day, jam-packed with activities. Sitting in the cosy recesses of the dormitory I recollect dreamily the passage through the day; our tumultuous reception in Gajiabad followed by a heavy breakfast given by local bigwigs of the town, A brief stopover at Garhmukteswar where River Ganges full up to the brim flows on lazily carrying huge load of&nbsp; rain water and silt; the drive through Gajraula, once a tiny village dotted with Dhabas ( the roadside eateries) on either side of the road where buses to and from Delhi would stop over for breakfast, lunch or dinner, is now grown into a big town - they are now attractive restaurants providing many facilities to the wayfarer at a relatively cheap rate; the glimpse of brass city of Moradabad famous for brass artefacts made by local skilled artisans; a passage through Pantnagar, seat of Agriculture University which transformed the face of Terai region notorious for malarial climate, into a grain bowl of the state - we had a glimpse of panorama of village life on way and their green paddy fields which frantically waved us bon-voyage and thus saw the country side fly past from the bus window; then we drove on to Haldwani a big trading centre "a mandi" of supplies to the hills and finally we are at Kathgodam so named as it was once big timber depot, the railway terminus and gateway to the mountains&nbsp; - nestled in the foothills of Himalayas, late in the afternoon for lunch. Though clouds are playing hide and seek with the sun, it has generally been a cloudy day. Here we changed over in two smaller buses, as big capacity bus can not ply on narrow and serpentine hill roads. Kathgodam We passed through Lake District of Kumaon in which Nainital is the famous lake town and includes Bhimtal, Naukuchiatal, Sat-tal, Naldamyanti-tal, Khurpa-tal and Malwa-tal. &nbsp; We reached Bhimtal -a small beautiful lake town, through a steep ascent. We passed through beautiful poplar avenue which cast their long shadows in the lake. The water edge of the lake is lined with weeping willows. They droop down to touch the waters to have better look of themselves in the depths of the lake. Besides Lake Bhimtal there is another lake nearby called Naukuchiatal so named for its nine corners. &nbsp; As sun sets behind the mountains the phantom like silhouette of the serrated hills is painted in the backdrop of rosy flushed western sky. Under these mountains, not far off, is nestled yet another lake Sat-tal under the shadows of ancient oak trees. There are no buildings or hotels in the vicinity of the lake. There are only few thatch roofed sheds on higher grounds who sell tea and snacks to the visitors during the day time. If you happen to be there you would see the ancient oak trees are loaded with bracken-fern, vines and orchids. In them also thrive many lives. Different species of insects can be seen crawling along the bole and branches of the tree. In fact the area is a happy home of bats, owls, crows, mynas, monkeys and squirrels. The generous oak tree allows the squirrels and monkeys to nibble the acorn. Towards evening there is cacophony of birds as they come to roost here. Entire area resonates with their shrill cries as they fight for a space of their own. The branches of oak trees are play-ground of monkeys and langurs. They show off their skills with great zest and noise. A woodpecker up in the hollow of a tree continues tapping the tree until late in the evening even while stars have presented their presence. Indeed a noble spirit resides in the oak trees. In the twilight the lake looks black, awesome and frightening. The eerie silence that this lake presents is indeed very fearsome. Due to thicket of oak it is dark even during the day. As evening descends, a blanket of darkness spreads every where; lake is quiet, trees stand still, it's calm every where, and only the occasional hissing whiff of breeze disturbs the tranquillity, and an army of glow worms come out blinking tiny lights from every nook and corner as if to show the way to the stray wayfarer. The crickets and cicadas begin their evening song. As darkness deepens it is time for night denizens to make rounds of the area in search of food, especially carnivores like panthers and leopards. Alas! This time we did not have the chance to linger on there but next time if we have a chance to visit this lake, I hope to see similar scenario that is painted in my memory. &nbsp; Crossing over the saddle, we enter Kosi river catchment area and reach Bhawali -- an orchard town that has mainly apples, plum, apricot and peach orchards in its surround. Not very far away from here is Ramgarh where there are extensive fruit orchards and is aptly called fruit basket of Kumaon. &nbsp; Evening comes quickly with aroma of cookies wafting from near by houses. A lone bird slices through the calm airs and vanishes into the thicket of the trees. The light turns grey and night fell fast. And we are still in Bhawali, miles away from our camp. I recall quite vividly, we pass&nbsp;through whispering pines lined up on either side of the road; visit Hunuman temple at Kainchi located at the end of a sharp u-bend beside a small stream; reach Khairna where road forks - one on the left across the river leads to Ranikhet and another on right along river Kosi takes us to our camp Almora. Soon it was pitch-dark as clouds gathered and covered the sky. It deepened with every passing moment and finally became impregnable. Nothing was visible except the faint beam of bus-head lights. I was wondering whether the bus driver was able to see so many blind bends and turns. It was scary but at last we reached the camp in almost dazed state. And what a relief it was. It was the price we paid for our extended reception at Gajiabad. &nbsp; <i>We have covered a long distance of 378km of plain and 94 km of hill journey by bus and have many more miles yet to go. My eyes are too tired to keep open any longer and I am off to dream land as soon as I hit the pillow.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1155906000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1155906000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1155906000/tpod.html Mon, 29 Jun 2009 11:22:55 -0400 " Memoirs Of My Journey To Kailash "

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Delhi, India

We, the 14th batch of prospective yatris to Kailash-Mansarovar from various states of the country, have gathered in the reception hall of the Heart and Lungs Institute, New Delhi. Here, investigation to ascertain the fitness of each yatri to withstand the rigours of the arduous journey is underway. While waiting for our turn we are trying to get to know each other. The person sitting next to me enquires where I am from. "Berinag", I reply. He doesn't seem to catch the name. So he repeats, "Ber..." yes "Berinag", I confirm. He looks at me completely confused and I can tell he has never heard of the name. Before he can seek clarification I explain:&nbsp; &nbsp; "About forty-two miles, north-east of Almora, in a remote area across many mountains, there is a small and beautiful town called Berinag. It is on the ancient route to the holy Kailash-Mansarovar. It is the place of my birth and where I spent the wonder years of my childhood. Such is its charm that any one will fall in love with it at first sight. There is some thing about the air there that immediately rejuvenates, thrills and elates one's sense of being". &nbsp; Thus saying I am lost in a reverie. I am transported back in time to the dreamland of my glorious childhood days. I find myself in the open meadows we roamed, where we played all sort of games, splashed in the mud puddles of monsoon, in the snows of winter, and climbed trees to steal pears, peaches or plum during summer. &nbsp;&nbsp; In deep recesses of my memory those days shine so very brightly even today, as is perhaps with everyone. Those are the indelible memories which I always cherish. &nbsp; &nbsp;Widely known for its tea gardens and tea of unparalleled flavour and aroma, Berinag then was a picturesque place at 6000 feet with wide views of snow-clad mountains like Badrinath, Nadadevi, Nandakot, Nandaghunti, Trisul, and Panchachulhi. These peaks though several miles away, beyond many blue-silhouetted hills, seemed very close. Their silent and serene beauty chiseled by divine hands was a salve for the soul. They are full and richer with snow during winter and sparkle like diamond in the crown. On many an occasion, I would awaken just as dawn was breaking and watch the sun rays as they kissed the silvery white snows. I saw them blush, softly glow and gradually seem to simmering into molten gold. I would stay there entranced and caress the enchanting view with hungry eyes. I have seen its beauty and mood in all seasons. Here you don't loose sight of snows; they are with you all the time wherever you go, shining with eternal splendour. They are so very fascinating; one is at peace and happy in their serene presence. &nbsp; In winter, I would watch the sun rise in the east everyday. Shivering in the biting cold I would try to seek its warmth. Though the early morning biting breeze took some time getting used to, I liked it stinging my cheeks. The warmth never came with flourish - only pale and dull without much sunshine and heat, but gradually as though responding to my grumblings and quivering it would shine joyously brighter. I could see the trees basking in the warmth and hear the birds sing. Every winter I eagerly waited for the snow-fall. It was so fascinating to see the snowflakes silently dancing in mid-air before landing on the ground as softly as feathers. &nbsp;Sometimes there was very heavy snow fall, enough for us to play with for days together and sometimes it would just kiss the ground and depart. The white spread of frost in the morning however, was always a common sight. &nbsp; I recall, it still being cold when spring came knocking on Basant Panchami, and we flashed yellow hankies in welcome. As the warmth gradually spread the leaf and flower buds would hesitantly burst open, oak trees shed old yellow leaves and donned tender new foliage. Basanti (Piyuli) splashed her yellow petals in every nook and corner in the wild. The leafless peach tree wore pink blossoms. The breeze redolent with fragrances enticed bees to get busy. There was an air of excitement all around. The entire scenario looked delightfully cheerful. Birds too were excited. They sang at all times, made a cacophony in the backyard and began romancing behind the new foliage. Sunbirds with their long bills and colourful plumage hovered on flowers and stole their nectar. It was the best time to be out-door after the sever winter, to wander about and be part of this romantic scenario, sit under the shade of a tree sprouting with young pale green leaves that seemed ever playful, ever ready to smile at the slightest touch of breeze and ever enjoying their childhood in as carefree a way as childhood should be. I would be just myself and silently enjoy.&nbsp; &nbsp; The only thing that I missed was a stream close by. The nearest one was almost five Kilometres away down the slopes. Undaunted by the distance we would trek up to it to play in its waters, swim, catch the spray of waterfall on our cheeks and watch a stray leaf flutter in its pond and observe fish scurrying past to hide under a rock at the slightest disturbance. It was always great fun, even at cost of the worried parents. We were always prepared for their scolding and even for the caning, which wasn't unusual during those days. &nbsp; Rainy season was a great fun. Lie down or let go it was fun either way. You could lie in the bed and listen to the patter of raindrops on the tin roof or be in the thick of the rain and fully get wet in its shower. It rained and rained until it was water and water every where. Every depression turned into a pond, big or small. The parched earth soaked so much water that aquifers carried the water deep down for springs to sustain the ensuing year. The entire hill side would gradually turn green with velvety grass. The lush green hills with milky-white streams and water falls cascading down were a sight to see. I would watch the scene as if from atop the world, an occasional rainbow like a blossom against the backdrop of the green hills. &nbsp; We were then isolated from outside world; no telephones, no telegraph facility, no radio, no electricity. And yet we were in touch with the world outside through newspaper which reached us after three or four days. We studied under the pleasant natural light or soothing light of oil lamps. &nbsp; &nbsp;Such was the environment I grew up and that influenced my childhood. &nbsp; The past is gone but fond memory is all that are left of my childhood and they linger on. To me, that is the only reality which my soul preserves, everything else is no more permanent than the oceanic waves which continuously rise, only to dissipate. &nbsp; To continue the chitchat my companion enquires, "What prompted you to take up this journey!" &nbsp; Rising as if from trance I respond, "well I grew up meeting yatris on their way to the Holy Kailash every summer. Sometimes I encountered strange lone hermits, like one who kept his hand up in the air all the time subjecting himself to immense endurance and penance; his hand had become very thin and looked like a wooden stick wrapped with dried leather. Then there was a Mauni Baba, who would not talk. He seemed all the while in union with the Divine. He responded to queries at a fixed time and by writing answers on a slate which he carried. Donning sack-cloth and ash over his body, he had plans to make it to Kailash. Narayan Swami also frequent passed through Berinag. I saw him once in his amber robe being carried by devotees in a palanquin. Then there were sadhus, saints, and sages of all description or groups of devout Hindus on pilgrimage to Holy Kailash. &nbsp; "Whenever a group of yatris came, I along with some other children would dash to their camp in the primary school, sit quietly in a corner, watch them and listen without understanding to what they talked about. They would ignore us. This was our pastime during summer evenings. It is here that I met a great sage Swami Pranvananand on two or three occasions. Last I met him was in the summers of 1957 when I was home on holidays. He was accompanied by a large group of yatris from Bombay. As I remember him he was over six feet tall, thin, with aquiline facial features, long flowing beard and matching long tresses. He was very fast talker with resonant voice, agile and very fast walker. People were drawn to him by his magnetic personality. He had a large following and a base camp in Almora. He even carried a folding rubber boat to Mansarovar and Raksash Tal, to determine their depth. He had been visiting these places regularly following different routes. Many times he lived in this region all the year round for more than a year doing research and had collected a wealth of information. &nbsp; "Even though I didn't understand what it meant to be on a pilgrimage I was fascinated and wished if&nbsp; I could also go with them. As a child I thought that all of them go far away beyond these snow mountains to some place on top of world to meet God who was waiting for them there. And I nursed a dream that one day when I grow up I too would go on a pilgrimage to such a Holy place to meet God." &nbsp; "From then on many summers have come and gone by but I didn't forget my dream. It was always there firmly implanted in the back of my mind all the while, but appointment came through only in the summers of 2006. What I had wanted for long has finally come to fruition. &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; "And here I am to keep the date."
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261317600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261317600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261317600/tpod.html Tue, 28 Apr 2009 08:36:23 -0400 A Trip To Kumaon Hills

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Ranikhet, Uttarakhand, India

Kumaon is roughly eastern half of Uttarakhand.&nbsp;Here the nature is at its best. The sky displays ethereal glow at sunrise and sunset. The air is redolent with fragrance, pines are always whispering among themselves&nbsp;and soft sunshine bathes the green earth, dales and&nbsp;valleys. The Majestic&nbsp;snow mountains glitter, lakes and river sparkle in sunshine.The region&nbsp;lies&nbsp;between almost near level topography of Tarai-Bhabar and lofty mountainous region of the Greater Himalayas far in the north, bordering Tibet. Except for the&nbsp;the occasional abrupt rise to an elevation up to 8000 ft&nbsp;the intermediate zone of the Inner Himalayas&nbsp; in between has generally subdued relief.&nbsp;The mountain tops are invariably well-carved and slopes are gently rolling. There are many wide river valleys in the region and has high population density. From vantage points throughout this region there are breathtaking views of a wide range of the snow-clad Himalayas.&nbsp;It is a treasure trove of rare flora and fauna, and paradise for the pilgrims, tourists and trekkers alike.Under the shadows of such a&nbsp;grand settings are nestled, Nainital, Ranikhet, Almora, Kausani, Bageshwar and Pithoragarh among many popular hill resorts.&nbsp;&nbsp;To such a beautiful land we -- my daughter, her two sons Sardul and Smiley and I, pack and leave to wander about early in the morning. In about an hours drive&nbsp;through&nbsp; eucalypts&nbsp;avenue and stately sal forests we arrive Haridwar where faith brings mass of humanity from all walks of life on the bank of River Ganga. Here Hindu religious celebrations go on day and night all the year round. Millions of people gather here on most auspicious occasions to take a holy dip in Ganga. Ganga-arti in the evening is most captivating sight. &nbsp;Najimabad is next big town on way. It is an hour away from Haridwar and is a pleasant drive through eucalypts forest. Passing through the green country side of Kotwali, Nagina we reach next big town of Dhampur - famous for sugar-mill. Another 90 minute's drive through Sherpur and Afjalgarh we enter Kashipur town of Tarai region. This area was once notorious for malarial climate. It is now a grain bowl of the state. We saw the country side fly past with green fields of wheat and yellow spread of mustards in flowers in between all the way. Finally we reach Haldwani a big trading centre "a mandi" of supplies to the hills and then Kathgodown, the railway terminus and gateway to the mountains&nbsp; - nestled in the foothills of Himalayas late in he evening. Here we rest for a while before we move to Ranikhet via Lake Town of Bhimtal and orchard town of Bhowali. It is dark when we reached Ranikhet Forest House where we spend the night. It is a very long journey of over 350 km.&nbsp;Having passed through&nbsp;amongst most polluted airs of Kashipur and Bajpur towns&nbsp;&nbsp;we now breathe fresh air free from pollutants, dust&nbsp;or smog, and&nbsp; are soon refreshed and rejuvenated.Situated at a height of 1829 m,&nbsp;83 km away from Kathgodam&nbsp;railhead,&nbsp;Ranikhet is a beautiful hill resort and attracts many nature lovers and tourists. During Raj it was a hill station for British Troups and a cantonment was established in 1869.&nbsp;The lush green forests and delicate plant life, panoramic view of majestic snow-clad mountains, makes it favourite destination in all season of the year.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am thrilled to be here once more after nearly two decades. I wander about with growing curiosity and childlike excitement to look around the changes that have come about during this time. The camelias, azaleas, Japanese cheery which I planted under the flag mast in Rest House campus during the rains of 1987, are in bloom, have grown in age and are doing exceedingly well. Many flowering plants which were there in past are no more there. The cantonment forests are prospering. The expanding population could not dent&nbsp;to spoil the beauty of the place.&nbsp;The excitement could not keep me in bed in the following morning.&nbsp;I am out of bed before dawn to see the magic of sunrise, the golden glow of sun rays in the snow peaks, and to feel the crisp, cool breeze. And I am fully rewarded as a whiff of aromatic balmy breeze sweetly whispers in my ears, while the eastern horizon welcomes me with a rosy smile. It is painted with beautiful crimson brush, it is&nbsp;an ethereal sunrise view.&nbsp;Sitting here in the rest house campus I have a fantastic panoramic view of the snow-peaks as&nbsp;they glow&nbsp;with morning sunrays far in the north. They are partially hidden by clouds today. On clear days panoramic view of Dunagiri (7066 m), Hathi Parvat (6727 m), Nandaghunti (6309 m), Trisul (7120), Trisul East (7074), Nanda Devi (7817), Nandakot (6861), Panchchuli ranges (6355, &nbsp;6904, 6312, 6334) snow peaks are visible from here. The majestic mountains, the snows, the crimson dawn, the dense woods, the greenery and the blissful chirping of birds all make the visit memorable. It is ecstatic to be witness to such a divine settings and just be yourself. This is what I have been missing so long.There is so much to see around, witness&nbsp;the miltary parade, play golf, visit Chaubatia apple orchard or malls,&nbsp;trek or just relax under the pine or beautiful deodar trees. Not very far from here is Jhula Devi temple where hundreds of bells are hanging all over in the temple. Hairakhan temple near Chileanaula, and Kalika temple&nbsp;are there nearby to meditate and seek salve to soul. Kumaon regiment center museum and memorials of ranikhet cantonment are worth a visit. Sitalakhet&nbsp;(5500 ft) suburban area between Ranikhet and Almora towns is a picturesque spot commanding majestic view of Himalayas. It is&nbsp;about 30km from Almora. There are many fruit orchards around it,
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1230125400/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1230125400/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1230125400/tpod.html Mon, 13 Apr 2009 08:22:06 -0400 A Trip To Kumaon Hills

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Dhikala (kalagarh), Uttarakhand, India

The Government Guest House Almora is located on the saddle of the ridge. It is a busy guest house. There are other occupants also in other suites.The dawn is still dark. Stars are glittering in the sky. I&nbsp; go out for a little walk along the ridge and to see the waking sky from a commanding location. I&nbsp;brighten up as the cool zephyr gently brushes my cheeks and&nbsp;clear turquoise blue sky wake up with crimson&nbsp;horison. After a while I sit on a parapet where a local resident joins me. He knows his town very well.&nbsp;He tells me about&nbsp;the wonderful five kilometer long walk from east to west all along the ridge through stone paved streets with very old wooden houses having beautifully carved facades. Once it was a beautiful old town but is much changed now, he laments. The greenery is still intact but it is no more a quiet place. Entire slopes are now crowded with cement concrete houses and number of new roads. While other towns of Ranikhet&nbsp;and Nainital were developed as hill stations during British rule primarily for their pleasure, Almora has its own identity as the capital of Chand Dynesty who ruled the land long ago.&nbsp;I am refreshed&nbsp;and ready for next part of our journey. A beautiful day yet again! In about less than two hours we are in Nainital. It is popularly known as Lake District because of&nbsp;the lakes - Bhim-tal, Naukuchia-tal, Sat-tal and Khurpa-tal&nbsp; in it's neighborhood.&nbsp;Nainital is incredibly beautiful place and a popular hill resort. The Naini lake is nearly oval in shape with major axis of about 2000 m and minor 500 m. Situated at a height of 1938 m dotted with colourful row-boats and some sail-boats (Yacht) ,the lake&nbsp;is&nbsp;surrounded by shops, hotels, villas on wooded slopes and&nbsp;with tall&nbsp;peaks rising up to 2611 m.&nbsp;Enjoying a boat ride with families in the turquoise blue calm waters rippling in breeze is the great attraction which Nainital offers to the visitors. Earlier the tourists with their families used to flock to Nainital or in hills for cool and fresh air only during summers when the plains become oppressively hot and schools are closed. But now it is crowded with visitors all through the year. Tiffin-Top (2611 m), Laria Kanta(2481 m), Snow-View (2270 m) are the tall peaks in the surround of Naini lake. From Snow-View panoramic view of snow peaks can be had. Though it is connected by ropeway (cable car) but trek through wilderness is very enjoyable.&nbsp;&nbsp;After a visit to the quiet and serene ambiance of the Government House we come down to the noisy and ever jam-packed flats. The mall-road follows the periphery of the lake. It is&nbsp;ever crowded with men, motorized vehicles and three wheel bikes. The Tibetan Market adjoining Naini Temple is the site one loves to visit to buy essentials or some fancy items or eat mouth watering 'chat' in the open. We, however, went in to the lake and enjoyed the thrill of an exciting boat ride. The Boat House Club is an old club located on the edge of the lake. It has a new look interior now after renovation. The exterior appearance however remains unchanged. &nbsp;After our lunch in the Boat House Club&nbsp;we leave for&nbsp;Corbett Park. Our stopover in Nainital was short but we enjoyed every moment of it. So much so, we could not keep count of time and forgot that entry in to the Park after sunset is not allowed. However, we made it just in time.&nbsp;&nbsp;Corbett Park is India's first and finest national park. It is a tiger reserve and a finest haven of tigers. Named after a great hunter of 'Kumaon Man-Eater' fame, 'Jim Corbett', it is nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas. Spread over along the banks of Ramganga (west) River, it offers different vegetation zones&nbsp;on its varied topography which comprises hilly terrain, temporary marshy depressions, plateau and ravines. Accordingly, it harbours variety of vegetation and wild life ideal both for nature lovers and wild life enthusiast.&nbsp;The park is habitat of large no of animals, roaming within acres of stately sal forests, brushwood and tall elephant grass. It is home to predators like tiger, leopard and diverse species of cats, wild dogs; antelopes like neelgai and ghorals; variety of deer - hog deer, barking deer, chital and sambhar; the primates - rhesus and langur; elephant, wild bores and other animals. More than 500 species of birds have been sighted in the Park which includes water fowl, king fisher, woodpecker, hawks and kites, peafowl, kalij pheasant, red jungle fowl, minivets, shrikes, cuckoos, bird of paradise, and barbets, in addition to over 20 varieties of reptiles. &nbsp;The Park remains open between 15th of Nov to 15th of June each year. Inside the park accommodation is available in Dhikala, Surpduli, and Khinanauli forest Rest Houses, dormitories or tents.&nbsp;Those who do not get accommodation inside the park stay in lodges available aplenty outside the park. There are hotels at Mohan and large number of colourful small or big lodges thrown open by the local people in their farm lands on the&nbsp;edge of&nbsp;the Park.&nbsp;Though bursting with tourists, it is all quiet as night falls. There is blissful peace, no honking, and no trills. The silence is only broken by sharp hooter's whoop tearing through the night. All inanimate seem to have gone to deep sleep although some of the night denizens may be out in search of their prey for food. Trees are silent, so are the hills. At times a gush of wind disturbs the tranquility. Some where far away a deer gives a warning call. At times roar of the tiger gives chill down the spine. These animal calls in the thick of dark, dense and silent nights are very fascinating.&nbsp;Thus&nbsp;breathes&nbsp;a&nbsp;living jungle and shows&nbsp;the well being and good health of the environment. &nbsp;Today is 25th Dec - last day of our wandering in Kumaon. We are out early in the jungle. Dawn is still dark. Thin layer of mist floats in the open area of tall elephant-grass - an ideal&nbsp;haven for animals&nbsp; where they feel safe and secure. The wild life watch is safe and much better on elephant&nbsp;back but all the three Park elephants are fully booked, so we are out in an open jeep. The mist gradually lifts and crimson waking sky gradually improves the visibility.My heart is filled with&nbsp;joy&nbsp;when we&nbsp;see herds of cheetals and couple of sambhars busy browsing is the open. They gracefully raise their heads and&nbsp; look at us with innocent eyes then unfazed&nbsp;continue grazing. We can not sight the entire herd as the tall elephant-grass obscures their visibility.&nbsp;Nearby we see&nbsp;is a large family of monkeys showing their skills&nbsp;of long sky-jumps from one tree to another. In&nbsp;a scrub forest,&nbsp;lone-tall-healthy-red jungle fowl is seen swiftly tearing through the bushes only to disappear in the grove near by. We were not lucky enough to see elephant, tiger or leopard, but saw fresh pug marks of tiger and droppings of elephants. It requires great patience, perseverance and optimism for jungle to respond. We are very happy and contented to listen to the sound of the jungle and to be in such environs which is spiritually stimulating.&nbsp;&nbsp;Finally we are homeward bound. We take the forest road passing through the buffer zone of the Park from Ramnagar to Pakhrao. The section of the road between Dhela to Pakhrao is very bad. Driving on good road&nbsp; from Pokhrao through forest to Kootdwara we again enter into a rough forest road to finally emerge on main highway at Chiriyapur. Though we saw some wild life on way but the drive was no way comfortable.&nbsp;Our trip&nbsp;to Kumaon though was very short but has been most enjoyable. We were amidst astonishing landscapes, resplendent with panorama of wondrous scenic beauty and of glittering snow-white summits. It has been joy all the way in the serene ambient.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1230046200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1230046200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1230046200/tpod.html Thu, 09 Apr 2009 08:30:17 -0400 A Trip To Kumaon Hills

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Almora, Uttarakhand, India

New dawn arrives. The hill tops are flushed and basking in the soft morning sunrays. The sky is clear with no trace of cloud any where. The air is pure and refreshing. It's all quiet. The town seems still sleepy.&nbsp; &nbsp;We were allured and enthalled by&nbsp;the sparkling sight of snows yesterday.We miss&nbsp;it today. From here snow peaks look hazy, aloof, cold and distant. I seek a glimpse of their grandeur one more time before we leave.&nbsp;I drive about 10 km to Chandak. It is situated on higher grounds at a height of about 1800 m and commands outstanding view of the snowy summits. The drive through the deodar-bani itself is fascinating. At a point where land suddenly seem to end and abrupt precipitous fall begins - though there is motor road snaking down to the valley, I stop and climb&nbsp;500 meters of steep ascent&nbsp;to have&nbsp;an unhindered view of the&nbsp;landscape. The entire panorama&nbsp;unfolds before me,&nbsp;with the beautiful terraced fields dotted with number of hamlets over looking the deep valley and beyond the expansive space far away is the most beautiful profile of the sparkling snow peaks rising to the immense heights touching the azure sky.&nbsp; It is&nbsp;an exciting and&nbsp;alluring pristine settings. Here it is joy and only joy ...Sun is now far out in the blue sky. We have our breakfast and leave the beautiful valley of Sor (Pithoragarh) with a promise to come back again. &nbsp;Drive down 30 km to Ghat is steep descent. As we cross Saryu River, a road on the left goes to Lohaghat. We turn right on our onward journey. After a&nbsp; drive of two kilometers on almost level road we reach the confluence of Ramganga (East) and Sarju Rivers.&nbsp;A long continuous ascent&nbsp;begins now. The drive is monotonous through more or less a dry zone. There are hardly any trees, only occasional bushy growth can be sighted. We get respite&nbsp;from the harsh sight only when we are at and near about Dhauladevi temple. We stop here and enjoy the cool air and feel happy to be amidst a beautiful dense deodar forest in the vicinity. We&nbsp;take our pack-lunch here on the parapet wall of the Forest Rest House.&nbsp;There is no soul in the vicinity ...&nbsp; no one to open the rest house... Only benevolent deodar trees watch us ...&nbsp;About four kilometers from Panwanaula are famous group of ancient temples of Jageshwar. These temples are situated in the narrow valley through which flows a small stream flanked by ancient deodar trees on either side. Some of the deodar trees in the vicinity of the temple are over four meters in girth. The temples are a fine work of sculpture. We spend some time in the temple.&nbsp;We reach Almora when the sun has set and western sky is ablaze with colours. Though we had planned to spend the night in Nainital but we could not make it and broke our journey here in Almora.&nbsp;Almora is perched in the saddle of&nbsp; the five&nbsp; kilometers long ridge. Old bazaar too follows the ridge. The well sculptured continuous row of old wooden houses with tiled roofs, beautifully carved facades and paved streets are heritage still well preserved. It is District Headquarters and is a big township.&nbsp;It was the Capital of Chand Dynasty who ruled the land long ago.&nbsp;Situated at an altitude of 1646 m it is a charming hill resort. The entiredistrict is replete with scenic beauty.&nbsp;&nbsp;
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261404060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261404060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261404060/tpod.html Fri, 27 Mar 2009 07:12:33 -0400 A Trip To Kumaon Hills

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Bageshwar, Uttarakhand, India

&nbsp;Ranikhet has always been my favourite retreat. I was here many times&nbsp;in past. I love the location of the Forest Rest House. It is very quiet place, is&nbsp;in the contonment area, atop a hillock, surrounded by trees from all sides. If we venture a few steps down the slope on the northern aspect we are in dense oak forest. A long lively walk&nbsp;at any time of the day on a path along the contour of this forest is extremly refreshing and rejuvenating.&nbsp;We may encounter wild animals and variety of birds&nbsp;if we take a walk&nbsp;on this road at dawn or dusk.&nbsp;The&nbsp;southern rolling grounds are covered with stately chir forests where chir-martins can be sighted at times. It has been a memorable stay here after a long time.&nbsp;It rekindles my memories of the bygone days. It was joy to be a witness&nbsp;to the panoramic spectacle of the sunrise this morning&nbsp;amidst exquisite beauty of serene ambient.&nbsp;We bid adieu to Ranikhet for now and leave for onward journey&nbsp;through the green hills and lush verdant valleys.It is beautiful and sunny-day.&nbsp;The pine needles glow in sunshine with metallic&nbsp;green lusture as the cool&nbsp;morning air softly plays&nbsp;with them.&nbsp;The natural surroundings are magical and mesmerizing. We pass through a long natural&nbsp;arcade&nbsp;of majestic&nbsp;pine trees&nbsp;standing on either side of the road&nbsp;and emerge in&nbsp;a Golf-Course&nbsp;in the middle of&nbsp;the pine forests near a small settlement of Kalika, about 10 km away from Ranikhet.&nbsp;We drive&nbsp;for&nbsp;another 30 minutes and&nbsp;reach Kosi, a small town on the bank of River Kosi.&nbsp;There is a small Shiva shrine on the bank of&nbsp;the river.&nbsp;The Shiva temples in hills are invariably located in the valleys&nbsp;on the edge of a river.&nbsp;Two kilometer of steep climb from here&nbsp;is&nbsp;a famous Sun Temple at Katarmal, atop&nbsp;a hillock. It was built by a Katuri&nbsp;ruler during the 9th century.The temple is known for its&nbsp;architecture, stone sculpture and carving in pillers and doors.&nbsp;Kosi is also seat of, Govind Ballabh Pant Institute of Himalayan Environment and Development. Almora is 16 km from here.&nbsp;We follow&nbsp;upstream of meandering Kosi River,&nbsp;glittering in the sun and&nbsp;enter into the wide valley of Someshwar,&nbsp; green with terraced wheat fields softly rippling in the bright sunshine. It is a pleasant drive through the populated area of Someshwar valley. On way we&nbsp;pass through&nbsp;chir forest in which most of the trees are twisted. It appears as if they are dancing to the tune&nbsp;of the wind. These trees are not straight grained and&nbsp;are spirally twisted along the bole.&nbsp;Even the branches are twisted. All along the road side as we climb to&nbsp;Kausani&nbsp;- atop a narrow ridge, local people have&nbsp;restructured their old houses or have made new ones for&nbsp;the visiting&nbsp;tourists. Kausani takes it's name from the river Kosi, also known as Kosila which&nbsp;eventually corrupted to Kausani. Kosi is a small&nbsp; but important river which rises&nbsp;in high ranges of Bhatkot, north-west of Kausani.&nbsp;From here towards east we have a panoramic view of wide green valley of Katyur (Garur). &nbsp;Kausani, nestled among dense pine forest, is a picturesque hill station famous for its scenic beauty. Situated at a height of 1890 m, it is 51 km north of Almora.&nbsp;This serene and&nbsp; idyllic hill resort&nbsp;is an attractive&nbsp;destination for national and international tourists,and is a favourite haunt of nature lovers, poets,&nbsp;thinkers and VIPs, all the year round.&nbsp;It commands&nbsp;spectacular 300 km wide uninterrupted view of snow peaks of Himalayas far in the north. It is sparsely populated with few shops and hotels by the road side on the saddle.&nbsp;The Tourists Guesthouse is ideally&nbsp;situated amidst deodar forests&nbsp;to witness the panoramic view of snows and captivating&nbsp; sunrise&nbsp;and sunset.&nbsp;&nbsp;It is a serene place to wander about and explore,&nbsp;to be in close proximity of&nbsp;nature, to listen the whispering pines and chirping of birds&nbsp;or just laze out in the sun under the open sky.&nbsp;It is joy to be amidst such&nbsp;bountiful&nbsp;natural ambient; it&nbsp;deeply influences the heart of a person ,&nbsp;elates and illuminates the&nbsp;him with divinity.&nbsp;&nbsp; It is the&nbsp;birth place&nbsp;of&nbsp;Sumitranandan Pant who,&nbsp;deeply influenced by the natural beauty&nbsp;became a great and famous Hindi poet.&nbsp;There is a museum dedicated to him. Mahatma Gandhi&nbsp;spent a fortnight here in 1927&nbsp;dubbed it as the Switzerland of India. He is said to have written commentary on Gita&nbsp; in a cottage now called Anasakti Ashram. We can discover these and more places of histiric importance by taking a leisurely pleasant walk through&nbsp;the pine forest.&nbsp;After&nbsp;our lunch of tasty <i>pahari dishes at Tourists Guesthouse, we descend through the green hills into beautiful Katyur valley. Gomati River meanders through this valley. At a distance of 71 km from Almora, 19 km from Kausani on the bank of this river, just few steps below the motor road, is a group of 12th century old temples of Baijnath (Vaidyanath) at a height of 1125m above&nbsp;the sea level.&nbsp;There is an archeological museum also in the complex. It is the collection of antiques unearthed from the area around Baijnath.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;We have a&nbsp;most pleasant drive as we pass through the populated&nbsp;&nbsp;Garur valleys and beautiful pine forests&nbsp;on a near level road along the bank of Gomti river. We finally enter Bageshwar through the bus terminus;&nbsp;it is a chaotic sight,&nbsp;jampacked with men and material, buses and trucks,&nbsp;we then pass through&nbsp; market place crowded with humanity, finally&nbsp;reach our camp-site over-looking the valley and Sayu River, late&nbsp;in the afternoon.Bageshwar&nbsp;is a&nbsp;holy township&nbsp;situated at the confluence of Gomti and Saryu Rivers at 960 m above sea level.&nbsp; It is&nbsp;the district headquarters and&nbsp;an important religious center of worship of Lord Shiva.&nbsp;Bageshwar finds mention in&nbsp;Manas Khand of the Skand Puran. There are ancient Shiva temple and&nbsp;cluster of Temples dedicated to number of deities, along the river bank.&nbsp;Bagnath (Lord of leopard) temple is the main&nbsp;Shiva Temple.&nbsp;It was constructed by&nbsp;Chand Dynasty in circa 1450 AD.&nbsp;A large number of devotees&nbsp;assemble here on Shivratri festival to have a dip in holy Saryu River and worship Lord Shiva. Apart from religious sanctity, Bageshwar is the gateway to popular trek to Pindari, Kafni and Sundardunga glaciers.&nbsp;Before the sunset&nbsp;I wander about to get feel of the surroundings, but I was&nbsp;greatly diappointed as&nbsp;there are only cluster of buildings and houses&nbsp;arround&nbsp;the Guest House.&nbsp;The view of the valley and the Saryu River from here, however, is beautiful and relaxing.&nbsp;I watch&nbsp;the sun set behind the hills illuminating the horizon with crimson colour. The glow gradually fades out. The darkness falls quickly. Suddenly&nbsp;it is all quiet; the air, the birds, the trees all become silent. I feel lonely under the empty sky. And I retire.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bageshar is well connected by roads with major towns of Almora (90km), Nainital (137 km). It is 206 km from nearesr airport&nbsp;at Pant Nagar&nbsp;and 180 km from&nbsp;Kathgodam railway station.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261492200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261492200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/2/1261492200/tpod.html Tue, 17 Mar 2009 10:52:42 -0400 A Trip To Kumaon Hills

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Pithoragarh, Uttarakhand, India

I wake up early in the new dawn as the easterly breeze softly flows past. There is chill in the air. The valley below is under thin layer of mist. The sun is still behind the hills but far away mountain tops are smiling delightfully in the soft morning rays. The trees sway and heave with joy. The birds are ready to take on a ride in the new sky. Every face in nature brightens up as the sky wakes up with all its glory. We are all packed and ready to start a new day.&nbsp;It is a beautiful bright sunny day. The mist has lifted from the valley. The Bagnath temple on the bank of Saryu River is our first stop to pay our obeisance to lord Shiva. A continuous ascent begins as we leave Bageshwar. It is a lovely drive through dense pine forests. Sun rays form polka-dot patterns as they seep through the opening in the forest canopy. The valley of Bageshwar and River Saryu are visible through the dark columns of chir stands deep down. They glitter in the soft sunshine and look beautiful. The road to Pindari glacier is visible like a black ribbon from this height. As we gain height we get a breathtaking panoramic view of snow-clad Himalayan mountain ranges far in the north sparkling with dazzling radiance in the sunshine. The view plays hide and seek as we drive on. It's all quiet through out the drive. Except for two small hamlets by the roadside we do not encounter any other big or small settlement near about until we reach Kanda about twenty five kilometers away from Bageshwar.&nbsp;Here the nature smiles and surrounds us from all sides; a deep wilderness where one is amidst spiritually stimulating natural splendour. It is soothing. The blue hills, the vast space beyond the blue hills where the snows glitter, the majestic green trees playing with the breeze, the clear azure sky, the refreshing cool air of winter that caresses, fills one with joy and effortlessly turn you inwards. No doubt then those great thinkers of yore chose such places for meditation and produced wealth of wisdom for posterity.&nbsp;Kanda, at a distance of 25 km from Bageshwar and at a height of 1900 m, is a large settlement. It is picturesque place. There are extensive terraced green fields on the hill slopes. There are patches of beautiful dense oak forests near about Dharamgarh. Come spring these oak forests don delicate soft new leaves shedding the old ones. In between oaks are rhododendron trees which when flower in summers adds beauty to the ambient. The entire drive is indeed a treat to the nature lovers.We break for lunch at Chowkori. It is a picturesque spot 112 km away from Almora situated at a height of 2010 m. It offers magnificent view of Punchchuli peaks. It is also famous for breathtaking view of sunset. With oaks and pines in the surround, beautiful green valley below and vast open space all around adds charm to this place and gives the feeling as though you are on very high grounds watching&nbsp;a grand scene. Chowkori was once famous for tea gardens. The garden is now in ruins. It is now slowly developing in to a picturesque resort. Beautiful government tourist cottages are already in place and many new buildings are coming up to cater for the ever increasing tourist's inflow. In course of time it may become most attractive tourist destination.After our lunch we take a detour of Berinag about 10 km from Chowkori. It is yet another beautiful place which commands exciting view of Himalayas. It was once popular for Berinag tea but now the tea gardens has been encroached upon by local and outside people and have built houses there on. Remnants of tea bushes are still there struggling for existence to tell their story and remind people of their past glory. It has now developed in to a big town like many other unplanned towns and has lost old flavour.&nbsp;We reach Thal valley on the bank of beautiful snow-fed River Ramganga (east) with clear turquoise waters coming from far away glacier.&nbsp;This is our last leg of journey to Pithoragarh&nbsp;through Dewalthal. Going up and down the hills, crossing many saddles or passes we are finally in Pithoragarh.Pithoragarh is the district head quarter of easternmost district of Uttarakhand.&nbsp;It is bound on the east by River Kali and on the west by Saryu. Nepal in the east and Tibet in the north are its neighbour. It is a beautiful township on the Kailash - Mansarovar yatra route. Located at a height of 1645 m, it has equable healthy climate. The town is well connected by network of roads.An airport about 5 km form the city is under construction, nearest rail-head is Tanakpur 151 km away,&nbsp;The FRH where we are staying for the night is on the higher grounds overlooking the town and is far away from it. Located in a quiet and lonely place it is a cozy two bed room unit with a common drawing cum dinning room and is surrounded by deodar and chir pine trees. &nbsp;The dusk comes. The hills silhouetted against the setting sun in the west look like dark phantom in the horizon with their serrated crowns luminous with fading sun rays. And the sky transits from orange glow to dark blue and eventually covered&nbsp; with twinkling stars hanging in the dome. The night now is&nbsp;silent, dark, and dense.&nbsp;It is all blissfully quiet and peaceful.&nbsp;
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1158166800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1158166800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1158166800/tpod.html Sat, 07 Feb 2009 09:27:10 -0500 " Memoirs Of My Journey To Kailash "

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Dehradun, India

As I sit in the cosy recesses of my home I wonder at times how I made such a long and tough journey, that too mostly on foot. I remember how every cell of my body screamed in protest on steep slopes and yet I moved on, sometimes alone in terrible wilderness. The maze of stark naked, desolate grey hills and snow-mountains seemed to stare at us as if in amazement of our temerity at coming so close to them. Although each one of us was cocooned in his own physical problems yet the very fact of togetherness of the group unknowingly gave each of us strength to overcome the travail of the journey cheerfully. Each derived strength in the other's company. It was as if the collective energy emanating from the group energized each of us.&nbsp;There is an urge in me to continue seeking enchanting sights that lie beyond, to travel slowly and without a care. Programmed schedule is always mentally and physically tiring, but then we did not have the liberty of choice.&nbsp;There was never a dull moment in our yatra. It has been a remarkable journey. Lady luck was on our side. We had wonderful weather through out. No illness, except minor ailments like cough and cold, head ache or slight fever. No one suffered high altitude sickness. Praise be god for His mercies, all of us enjoyed the yatra and are back to share the happy and thrilling moments with others as I have done here..&nbsp;I know now after a long and eventful journey that nothing is possible and complete without His grace and presence. I do not see Him but always feel that He is there by my side. He manifests in the beauty that is there so much everywhere. He is there in the smiles of pretty little flowers that bloom in the wilderness. I see delicate poetry written in everything of His creation which only His tender hand tirelessly at work can create. We are only an infinitesimally small and insignificant part of that which is unimaginably and unbelievably so big and awesome. The awesome Himalayan landscape makes us aware of the Power that shapes and rules our destiny This very thought is enough to puts our egos away and generate love and compassion; the compassion or karuna for all living beings and the nature, and treat His creations lovingly, tenderly and delicately. We must tread on slowly and softly lest the order He has created may not be disturbed beyond repairs. He will ever bless us in return and give us happiness. &nbsp;I am glad I made an attempt to write my Memoirs of Kailash-Mansarovar Yatra. (It may come in book form some times later. Presently I have placed it in the internet site&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; http://www.travelpod.com/member/kailashi&nbsp; for all interested to read and send comments.) &nbsp;While doing so I was again under the glorious spell as I roamed all over again and again in that wilderness; the land of gods and abode of lord Shiva and felt as if I was there mentally and physically. I have said what I saw and felt. At times my imaginations had overriding influence but those are my feelings which came out spontaneously. &nbsp;I am back but my heart remains there in those astonishing landscapes of rugged grandeur, peace and serenity, of bright blue cloudless skies, where song of solitude refuses to leave your company and can be heard everywhere you go, and where all worldly concerns seem trivial and you revel in ocean of joy and lost in Devine Song. Those wild trails, majestic twin lakes and snowy Mount Kailash, the silence of the hills and valleys beckon me and I can hear them. I wish if I could make it one more time. Presently however, I want to live the moment, to be free and a part of the glorious new dawn which is on its way to arrive with rosy smile a short while from now as the sun shines on my doorsteps.&nbsp;&nbsp;And the ENDLESS SONG continues........
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1156427100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1156427100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/kailashi/1/1156427100/tpod.html Wed, 06 Aug 2008 08:45:10 -0400 " Memoirs Of My Journey To Kailash "

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Gunji, India

'Navi' means navel and 'dhang' mountain. Navidhang is thus called because the mountain in the foreground has <img alt="Navidhang Hill" src="http://images.travelpod.com/users/kailashi/thumbnail.large.1.1156427100.kailash1_023.jpg" border="0">the shape of a navel mound.&nbsp;&nbsp;Our trek of today is only nine kilometres. We leave the camp after a heavy breakfast at 09,30.The sky is clouded but thunder, moaning of the trees, whistling and groaning of the wind which was there last night is completely absent now. We plod on along steady ascent in silence. It's cold. Overcast sky slowly clears up. The clouds in such profusion are only monsoon visitors, during other seasons they come and go and do not cling to the sky for long. See how the sun peeps out. Amazing!&nbsp;&nbsp;After an hours trek we are amidst the rocky face of the mountains. Tree line which ends at an altitude of 3700 meters is left behind. Above this altitude and short of the snow line is a region where herbs, shrubs, ferns and grasses exclusively rule the otherwise barren landscape. An Extraordinary profusion of delicate wild flowers of many hues is sporadically splashed all over. At places the healthy fresh-green carpet of grass well mowed by browsers like goat and sheep look like oasis in near desert like conditions. &nbsp;Now we are in the upper reaches of the Himalayas which are subject to extremely cold winds. We are therefore, well fortified with heavy woollens, especially protecting our heads against biting cold winds. &nbsp;Om ParvatThe OM Parvat is now visible in the easterly direction far in the horizon as we approach Navidhang campsite. In this hill snows form a pattern of 'OM'. It is no less than a miracle to see milky white snow 'OM' carved out on the rocky mountain and is probably as old as these mountains are. It is a unique natural phenomenon. Most of the time however, it is covered with clouds and therefore, is a rare sight.&nbsp;Today till late in the evening it remained veiled with clouds. However, on our return journey we have a magnificent view of 'OM' written in snow on the top of the mountain far away in the horizon.&nbsp;&nbsp;<img alt="Navidhang Camp" src="http://images.travelpod.com/users/kailashi/thumbnail.large.1.1156427100.kailash1_027.jpg" border="0">Our camp is on the rolling grounds. The valley is quite open. Deep down a river arising in Lepulekh flows. We see bare mountains all around us. We are at 3987 m or over 13000 ft above sea level. It is extremely cold here, so much so that I can see my breath. We are relaxed and roam about lazily. And gradually the eighth day of our journey comes to a close.
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