TravelStream™ news feed for member joeleeis on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/joeleeis en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Wed, 02 Sep 2009 15:20:44 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/4/1245187131/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/4/1245187131/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/4/1245187131/tpod.html Wed, 02 Sep 2009 15:20:44 -0400 Latin American Summer 2

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Washington DC, District of Columbia, United States

"Half the fun of the travel is the aesthetic of lostness." – Ray BradburyFrom Paraguay, a country with barely any tourism, my girlfriend Tamara and I went to Guatemala, a country booming with tourism.  In contrast to the poorly-endowed Paraguay, Guatemala has many mountains and volcanoes, two coastlines (Caribbean and Pacific), two famous lakes, and jungle.  Our first glimpse of Guatemala was an impressive and appropriate introduction to the landscape.  As our airplane began its descent, we looked out of our window and saw green mountains everywhere.  Some of the mountains looked as if the tops were cut off, creating flat tops filled with the buildings that make up Guatemala City, the capital.  Ever since that first glimpse, our impression of the land has only gotten better. Unfortunately, there is one thing that really takes away from the Guatemalan experience, and ironically, it's the thing that’s supposed to be promoting it – travel agencies.  The travel agencies here seem to make a living by telling you whatever they can to sell you something, and then delivering on only some of what they said they’d give you.  During the first part of our ten-day trip, while we were getting used to being here, we used travel agencies to book one tour and a few trips on shuttle buses, and it took away much of the experience.  Our first stop was Antigua, the capital of Central America during the Spanish colonial period.  In this small town, surrounded by green mountains and Volcano Agua, we wandered the old streets where all the houses and storefronts are painted in bright pastel colors.  Despite severe earthquakes in the past, some of the very old buildings are still standing while others are in ruins.  Afterwards, we took an overnight bus north to the region of Petén, famous for the Mayan ruins in Tikal.  In very hot and humid weather, we wandered in the jungle among the stone pyramids in Parque Nacional Tikal for several hours.  A day or two later, we booked a tour to Volcano Pacaya to see live lava flows, but when we arrived there were none.  It was then that we decided to stop dealing with the travel agencies and change our approach to travel in Guatemala. Since then, it’s been a great experience.  I sometimes forget that it’s often the traveler who determines how adventurous and/or exciting the trip is, and not so much the destination.  Instead of taking overpriced, tourist-filled, direct shuttle buses, we decided to go with local buses, which are called chicken buses.  The chicken buses are old American school buses, painted in crazy colors on the outside and slightly modified on the inside.  They are filled with Guatemalans instead of tourists, and it seems like the bus drivers are often on a mission to take their buses to the speed of sound despite the lack of straight roads.  The feeling of not knowing where you’re going, having to ask locals where places are, and running to catch transfers was much more my flavor.  We took a series of chicken buses to get to a lake called Lago de Atitlan and, while we were able to get pretty close, we didn’t quite get there.  To complete the trip, we hopped in the back of a pick-up truck that acts like a collective taxi (called a furgon) with about eleven other Guatemalans.  These furgones are equipped with a frame in the back so that everyone can stand relatively safely while the truck is in motion.  As we drove in the hills along the winding road towards the town of Panajachel, we had our first views of the volcano-ringed, nearly turquoise-colored Lago de Atitlan.  We negotiated with the ferry boat operators to get a decent price to the lakeside town of San Marcos, where we spent the night. Speaking of negotiating, we really enjoyed the abundance of people selling all kinds of stuff on the streets and in the outdoor markets, especially in Antigua and Chichicastenango.  After Lago de Atitlan, we went to Chichicastenango, the oldest and biggest market in Central America.  We spent several hours walking through the alleys and negotiating the prices of many items, a tough but fun experience.  What made it especially challenging was the fact that many people seemed to be selling the same stuff, yet there was no way to determine the real value, and therefore the price, of anything.  The sellers throw out a price that they think you, a tourist, would be willing to pay for the item, and if you hesitate to buy they always say there’s a discount.  The size of the discount is then what becomes negotiated, so everyone ends up paying a different price.  Sometimes, if you’ve been unlucky, you find another vendor selling the exact same thing you just bought for 50% or less than what you just paid.  After some bargaining in Antigua and Panajachel, we fared pretty well (I think… again, you never really know for sure if you did well). So, we spent just ten days in Guatemala, but we developed some big likes and dislikes about this country.  We really enjoyed finding our way around by chicken bus, negotiating the prices of items for sale, riding in furgones and auto-rickshaw taxis, eating fresh tropical fruit, driving through the very green and mountainous terrain, and seeing the remnants of Mayan culture (both in the ruins at Tikal and in the crafts found in Antigua and Chichi).  We didn’t like dealing with travel agencies, living with the heat and humidity in the northern region of Petén, or finding out that we overpaid for an item at the market.  And now, I'm back in Washington for my second year of school.  While I sometimes think it'd be nice to still be on the road, after this experience it does feel good to be back.  And after two years and two months, some of my stuff is telling me to take a break.  The New Balance sneakers I used for both summers in Latin America suddenly feel very uncomfortable.  The band on the $7 watch I wore every day since I left for Costa Rica broke a few months ago.  The money belt and travel socks I've used since the South Pacific trip are full of big holes.  The few travel-friendly, sweat-wicking, temperature-regulating shirts I bought for the South Pacific trip don't seem to regulate temperature so well anymore.  So for now, while I attempt to finish my degree requirements, I will again spend time in the library poring over books, problem sets, and readings.  But in the little down time I have, I will be dreaming of and planning for trips that will be realized in the very near future.  Until then, ciao!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/4/1249935646/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/4/1249935646/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/4/1249935646/tpod.html Thu, 13 Aug 2009 09:48:45 -0400 Latin American Summer 2

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Asuncion, Paraguay

“When you travel, remember that a foreign country is not designed to make you comfortable. It is designed to make its own people comfortable.” - Clifton FadimanAnd in some cases, it doesn't seem designed to do even that.&nbsp; Such is the case in Paraguay, where my girlfriend Tamara and I have been for the past ten weeks or so.&nbsp; We came here in early June because I am working as a summer intern at a non-profit microfinance organization, and at the end of this week we'll be on our way to the States.&nbsp; I'm really thankful that it wasn't my first travel experience, or else I might not have gone anywhere else aftewards.&nbsp; There are certain things in Paraguay that remind me of Costa Rica.&nbsp; Old cars, imported from the first world, are prevalent here just as they were there.&nbsp; In the bathrooms, the faucets only have one handle, for cold water, and in cities the showers have electric showerheads which heat the water right above your head.&nbsp; Random dogs run around everywhere, and the sidewalks have metal baskets sitting a few feet off the ground to prevent animals from getting into the trash.&nbsp; Bus drivers often keep the front door of the bus open when it's hot.&nbsp; The slow pace of Latin American life gets to you very quickly both here and there.&nbsp; Some things that I noticed right away about this country:- There are many old cars here, and the undisputed king of the road is Mercedes.&nbsp; Most, if not all, of the buses and trucks here are very old Mercedes models, and nearly half of all the cars on the road are Mercedes models from any of the last fifty years.&nbsp; One of the things I really like about developing countries is that you see cars that you never saw in real life before or never even knew existed in the past.&nbsp; - Nearly all the cars have their windows tinted very dark.&nbsp; Some do just the four doors and the back windshield, while others also put window tinting across the top and bottom of the front windshield so that they see out of a fairly narrow band of non-tinted glass.&nbsp; Theft is that big a problem.&nbsp; - There is an incredibly big informal sector, which is "economic activity that isn't taxed or monitored by the government (according to Wikipedia)."&nbsp; Sometimes, in American cities, there are a few people who try to make a few bucks by washing car windshields at intersections, helping you parallel park your car, or pan-handling.&nbsp; Here in Paraguay, there are droves of people who try to make their living like this.&nbsp; At a major intersection, there might be two people selling apples, two selling oranges, one selling instant lotto tickets, one selling candy, one selling Paraguayan biscuits called chipa, a team of kids (under 10 years old) washing windshields and wiping headlights, and a pair of even younger kids (as in, between 2 and 5 years old) going car-window to car-window pan-handling.&nbsp; And that's at <i>each of the four entrances to the intersection.&nbsp; Then there are others that hop on and off local buses all day selling all the same stuff.&nbsp; - Poverty is very real here.&nbsp; There are more than a few people who build makeshift tents in vacant lots from stuff they picked up in the trash and survive by selling things on the street, stealing, or other means.&nbsp; There is a well-known park in the downtown section of the capital, Asuncion, full of makeshift tents and their tenants.&nbsp; On the east side of Asuncion, there is a park where kids without parents hang out and sleep at night.&nbsp; - Private security guards are everywhere, and they pack serious heat.&nbsp; Some are hired to protect individual houses, sitting in guard stations that look like porto-potties on the curbs of rich neighborhoods.&nbsp; Others guard apartment buildings, private schools, bus stations, car dealerships, restaurants, and nearly everything else.&nbsp; The weapon of choice for many of these guards is a 4-foot-long shotgun, and for them the night-stick seems to be just an aesthetic accessory.&nbsp; I guess this is what happens when the police can't be relied upon.&nbsp; - The police - they wear beige uniforms, complete with beige hat and black army boots, and look more like some sort of military force.&nbsp; They don't seem to be the kind of people you'd want to go to for help, whether you're a visitor or citizen, especially considering this is the second-most corrupt country in all of Latin America.- Everyone here drinks something called terere (cold version) or mate (hot version) all the time.&nbsp; They carry a locally-designed water bottle with a ring on the side to hold their terere/mate cup.&nbsp; They fill the cup with yerba mate (which looks like shredded tea leaves), and they put in a straw with very small holes in the bottom so that they can drink without taking in the bits of yerba mate.&nbsp; Then they fill the cup with water, drink, refill, pass it to their friend to drink, refill, drink, and repeat all day.&nbsp; Everyone - bus drivers, armored-car drivers, policemen, office workers, security guards - all drink (and share) terere/mate all the time.&nbsp; - The beef is incredible.&nbsp; Most, if not all, cows from Paraguay and Argentina are raised naturally, and the meat - whether grilled, breaded and fried, stuffed in an empanada, or otherwise - is superb.&nbsp; - The diversity of people here surprised me.&nbsp; Besides the "typical" Latin Americans - mestizos (descendants of mixed Spanish and indigenous heritage), there are a fair number of people of indigenous, Italian, German, English, Japanese, and Korean descent, among others.&nbsp; I think many of them (especially Europeans) came around the time of WWII to escape the rule of the Axis Powers.&nbsp; - There isn't much tourism.&nbsp; Paraguay has no beaches, no mountains, and very little jungle, so it's hard to draw tourists when the region has places like Buenos Aires, Montevideo, Rio de Janeiro, Valparaiso, Patagonia, the Bolivian altiplano, Tierra del Fuego, Iguazu Falls, and the Amazon.&nbsp; - There's nothing to do.&nbsp; Downtown Asuncion is completely dead on the weekends.&nbsp; If there's nothing to do downtown in the country's biggest city on the weekend, you can imagine how fun this place is.&nbsp; There are a few discotecas around, but mostly people just go out to eat and drink or hang out at the mall.&nbsp; I guess it's ok, though, since I got to know my girlfriend much better (and that's a good thing).&nbsp; We've been hanging out, trying to find ways to enjoy ourselves despite the bleak atmosphere of this country, and we've found enjoyment in playing online games, joking around, and acting really stupid.&nbsp; Unfortunately, most of my time here has been spent sitting at a desk, but Tamara and I were able to get away for a weekend to visit Iguazu Falls (on the border of Brazil and Argentina and near the border of Paraguay).&nbsp; To get there, we had to go through Ciudad del Este, Paraguay's notorious border town.&nbsp; It's dirty, crowded, noisy, and full of illegal activity.&nbsp; Surprisingly, the minute you cross the Friendship Bridge into Brazil, you feel like you're in a different world.&nbsp; Suddenly, it looks very green, with plenty of grass and palm trees.&nbsp; We were pretty dumbfounded when we got to Iguazu, which makes Niagara seem a lot less impressive.&nbsp; Along a walking trail on the Brazilian side of the falls, view and breath-taking view eventually led us onto a bridge that lets you stand in the middle of the upper and lower falls right in the middle of everything while getting soaked by a never-ending mist.&nbsp; That short trip was what saved our sanity during this uneventful summer.&nbsp; So overall, our experience in Paraguay (both in and out of the office) has been pretty dull and unpleasant.&nbsp; Generally, I don't like to say bad things about places but, other than a few local friends, everyone and everything in this country has left a bad taste in our mouths.&nbsp; The pervasive corruption and poverty here, combined with a very bland lifestyle and mediocre work experience, had us packing our bags long before our departure date.&nbsp; It wasn't all bad - we got to know each other that much better and we got to visit Iguazu - but when we think about the possibility of leaving this very bleak environment, only one thing comes to mind: we can't wait to get out of here.&nbsp;
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/3/1243582343/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/3/1243582343/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/3/1243582343/tpod.html Thu, 18 Jun 2009 08:19:38 -0400 "Studying" Abroad in Italia - A Long-Awaited Experience

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Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

"One always begins to forgive a place as soon as it's left behind." - Charles DickensMy first year of graduate school has ended, and I'm grateful that despite finishing my bachelor's degree several years ago I was still able to have a study-abroad experience.&nbsp; This was my longest period of time abroad in one place, and I noticed that living in a stationary place and having real responsibility was an altogether different, and much more tame, travel experience (but not necessarily better or worse).&nbsp; The days of slinging a bag over my shoulder and not caring about anything were replaced by short trips on weekends with a constant voice in the back of my head telling me I should be back in time to do some work on Sunday night.&nbsp; With a relatively small student body that I saw daily and a generally fashion-conscious society, I suddenly cared again about what I wore in public.&nbsp; With a relatively comfortable room, I was less willing to explore my surroundings.&nbsp; And with a heavy workload, I didn't feel as young and energetic as I had a year earlier.&nbsp; As I browsed the travel section of a local Barnes and Noble store a few weeks ago (in the U.S.), I noticed that the number of travel guides for Italy far outnumbered the number of travel guides for any other country.&nbsp; And for good reason - Italy is a land chock-full of famous history, art, and food, among other things.&nbsp; This is the land of over two thousand years of continuous history, from the big places like ancient Rome, Venice, and Florence to the small towns in between once protected by castles.&nbsp; This is a land of artists like Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Tiziano, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Ducati, Vespa, Prada, Gucci, Armani, Versace, Zegna, and the list goes on.&nbsp; And then there's the food.&nbsp; Every type of food is regional: tagliatelle comes from the Emilia-Romagna region while angel hair come from another.&nbsp; Pesto is made best in Liguria while ragu sauce is made best elsewhere.&nbsp; The vegetables, particularly from the southern regions of Italy, are incredibly tasty.&nbsp; The meats, consisting mostly of pork, are great.&nbsp; There are certain ideal combinations of pasta and sauce - shells can hold certain bits of meat and cheese better than spaghetti, and in my experience Italians rarely if ever "create" or "experiment" with new combinations of pasta and sauce.&nbsp; It's like, "I will only create a spaghetti carbonara or other dish if I have all the ingredients", and not like "I'll make a pasta dish with whatever's in my fridge."&nbsp; This upholding of culinary traditions also makes Italians very sensitive to the quality and taste of Italian dishes made by others.&nbsp; They can point out what ingredient(s) is/are causing a dish to be less tasty than normal.&nbsp; With this type of attention to detail, one can imagine how good the food must be.&nbsp; Despite all these historical and cultural endowments, I began to notice other things the longer I lived there.&nbsp; The glamour of seeing a new place began to wear off as I got into the swing of daily life.&nbsp; Getting to different places started to seem like a task, as the transportation system isn't always efficient.&nbsp; Customer service isn't as highly regarded as in the U.S.&nbsp; Italian food, like any other cuisine, can become tiresome without a variety of other options.&nbsp; And in general, without getting into detail, I started to see social problems that are inherent in all societies.&nbsp; But after leaving, I suddenly recall with fondness certain things that characterize Italy to me.&nbsp; My favorite pizzeria, with its wood-burning stove and unbelievably thin crusts, created works of art for me every time I went there.&nbsp; There were times that I became so sick of pizza that I couldn't eat it, but I always ended up regaining my appetite for it.&nbsp; The sight of senior citizens riding old-fashioned bikes down the street was always something I liked.&nbsp; Good, cheap bottles of wine stock the shelves of every supermarket and convenience store.&nbsp; Shops with wheels of parmesan cheese and pig legs dangling from the ceiling were always a good sign of quality food.&nbsp; Hand-written pages of restaurant menus always ensured that fresh, in-season ingredients were used.&nbsp; Meals are very important times, and restaurants are never in a rush to kick you out.&nbsp; The pasta is always perfectly al dente.&nbsp; All-natural gelato recipes and high-quality coffee drinks were always good excuses for a break.&nbsp; I always enjoyed spotting classic Fiat cars and Vespa scooters.&nbsp; Everyone loves to window-shop.&nbsp; People love being outside when the weather's nice.&nbsp; And of course, I met a very special girl in and from Bologna, so there's a whole set of other places that bring memories.&nbsp; There was a definite limit to what I saw and did.&nbsp; I was able to visit a fair number of places in northern Italy, but not many in the south.&nbsp; When I did travel, I often felt a little constrained except during my three "big" breaks, when I felt a little more at ease.&nbsp; But while I didn't explore as much as I would've liked or with the freedom that I would've preferred, I did get a pretty good grasp of Italian life and hopefully, I'll be able to go back and enjoy some of my favorite things soon.&nbsp; Until next time, Arrivederci!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1207060500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1207060500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1207060500/tpod.html Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:51:05 -0400 Backpacking the South Pacific - 4 island nations, 4 months...

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Christchurch, New Zealand

"The traveler sees what he sees.&nbsp; The tourist sees what he has come to see."&nbsp; ~G.K. ChestertonI've been trying to cram everything into these last ten days, and it's been pretty tiring.&nbsp; Here's another quick update on what I've been doing.&nbsp; After Mt. Aspiring National Park, I was in Wanaka and wanted to go even further south to the city of Queenstown, but everyone in this super-religious country had already planned their Easter weekend vacations ahead of time and booked all the hostels and hotels in both places.&nbsp; After looking at the bus routes and trying to find conveniently located places, I settled on a hostel in Omarama that's situated on a real farm.&nbsp; They have tons of merino sheep and cows.&nbsp; I spent the entire weekend there, mostly relaxing and watching movies.&nbsp; The main building is a country farmhouse, but I stayed in a comfortable tent (which they provided), which was designed for two people and had cots with mattresses.&nbsp; For $12/night, I couldn't turn it down.&nbsp; Afterwards, I made it to Queenstown, which is a huge tourist trap.&nbsp; They have everything there: bungy jumps, canyon swings, river rafting, river surfing, gondola rides, etc.&nbsp; Everything cost over $100 and the highest bungy jump in the world, the Nevis, cost $220.&nbsp; I decided I wasn't afraid to do the jump, but it was just too much money for such a short thrill.&nbsp; Instead, I opted for an overnight sea kayaking trip into Doubtful Sound.&nbsp; Doubtful Sound is part of Fiordland National Park, the crown jewel of the New Zealand national park system.&nbsp; The better-known sound is Milford Sound, and I decided to do a short day trip just to see what it was like.&nbsp; The place was nice, but there was so much tourist infrastructure that it took away all the serenity and peace of a national park.&nbsp; Doubtful Sound is much more remote and less-visited.&nbsp; The next day, after a 20 minute drive, an hour boat ride, and another 40 minute drive, I finally arrived with the group at the kayak launch site into Doubtful Sound.&nbsp; Among the other people doing the trip were several Big 4 employees (PwC and KPMG, boo).&nbsp; We did most of the trip in the rain, and it made the scenery all that much better because it produced a ton of waterfalls that aren't normally there.&nbsp; After about six hours of kayaking, we camped in the wilderness and the rain came all night (typical of this area).&nbsp; The next day, we kayaked for another six hours or so back to the launch site, did the shuttle-boat-shuttle back into town, and I decided to take a three hour drive to Queenstown with my kayaking partner, who had a car.&nbsp; At that point, I was pretty tired but I still wanted to fit everything in, so the next morning I took a four hour bus ride to Mt. Cook National Park.&nbsp; I hoped to camp in the backcountry and do some other hikes, but after starting out my back erupted in the sensation of pins and needles.&nbsp; I had to stop and turn back.&nbsp; The town is really small and the hostel was booked, so I ended up staying at a hotel.&nbsp; A hotel!&nbsp; Before the trip, I told myself I wouldn't stay in one, but I didn't have many options and I thought I should take care of myself so I caved.&nbsp; I noticed the really big pros and cons of staying in a hotel vs. hostel.&nbsp; It is definitely nice to have my own double bed, a TV, and bathroom.&nbsp; However, there are no cooking facilities and it's very difficult to meet anyone.&nbsp; I did save some money by cooking instant noodles on my patio with a camping stove for dinner and breakfast.&nbsp; The next day I went to Lake Tekapo, which is renowned for its turquoise blue water.&nbsp; It was very nice, and I decided to get over the pins and needles sensation by hiking around the lake slowly without a pack.&nbsp; It seems to have worked, and the views were really great.&nbsp; The town of Tekapo is also famous for having a really dark night sky&nbsp; so at night, I lay in a dark field to look at the stars and caught a few shooting stars and comets.&nbsp; I've noticed here and in other areas also that when the sky is dark, I can see the nebulas and gas clouds of the Milky Way.&nbsp; Finally, I made it to Christchurch.&nbsp; There's not too much to say about it.&nbsp; Many people have said that it's the most British city in NZ and although I've never been to Britain, I can see where they're coming from.&nbsp; This is also the first place in a long time that has affordable internet and a lot of Asians.&nbsp; As I think about everything I've seen and done here, I've decided to make a list of all things New Zealand to me. New Zealand, the land of:-Kiwis (the people, the bird, and the fruit)-(Relatively) safe hitchhiking-Clear, dark night skies-Possibly some of the world's best national parks-Tons of German, Israeli, and British travelers-The world's first bungy site-Glaciers and blue/gray glacial streams-American media (American Idol, Dancing With the Stars, House, Lost, Desperate Housewives, Grey's Anatomy, countless other shows, plus American music)And a few NZ phrases (a lot of these may be the same as those used in Britain, and there are more but I can't think of them right now):Sweet as - awesomeGood on you - nice jobCheers - thanksGood as gold - you're welcomeEh? - huh?Up until this point, I've always had this notion that life is supposed to follow a fairly strict path.&nbsp; You graduate, get a job, get married, get a house, a family, maybe a dog, then you retire.&nbsp; I'm not sure if it's American culture or a broader thing, but I've always wondered how I'd fit everything I want to do in life within that timeline.&nbsp; But since being here, I've met enough people doing the things they want to do that those notions have been broken.&nbsp; I've met a dentist in her thirties from Brazil who wanted to travel and is now working in New Zealand temporarily as a dental assistant, a 39 year-old woman who is twice as fit as me and is spending four months in New Zealand learning how to be an outdoor sports instructor, and a French couple who were in the middle of their 9-month round-the-world honeymoon.&nbsp; These people are living life exactly as they want to, on their own terms and with their own timeline.&nbsp; Therefore, I've spent a lot of down time thinking of what exactly I want to do with my life, on my own terms and with my own timeline.&nbsp; I'll refrain from sharing some of the things on my list - I have a feeling I'd probably get laughed at.&nbsp; Tonight, I head for Sydney.&nbsp; Judging from my ATM receipts, I think I've gone slightly over budget for NZ (but not too much), so I've decided to try Couchsurfing in Australia, which is a worldwide network of hosts who share their couches with travelers for free.&nbsp; The theory is that if you spend a certain amount of time traveling and couchsurfing, you will later become a host and share your own couch.&nbsp; It should be quite interesting.&nbsp; Alert the authorities if I don't make another post within 20 days.&nbsp; See you in Australia!&nbsp;
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1206004920/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1206004920/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1206004920/tpod.html Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:46:05 -0400 Backpacking the South Pacific - 4 island nations, 4 months...

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Wanaka, New Zealand

"An itinerary is the enemy of adventure." - Jeep adThere's something in the air down in the South Island that makes people a bit crazy, and I admit that I've been swept into the frenzy.&nbsp; It's a pretty common topic of conversation among travelers and locals alike, and I'm engrossing myself in it.&nbsp; Since my last post, I did a tramp for hours, then woke up the next day and continued doing that tramp until my legs were really tired.&nbsp; The following day I found another tramp and did that for a few hours, and did it again the next day.&nbsp; After a few days rest, I started doing other tramps.&nbsp; Oh, that's right - I forgot to say that tramping is NZ-speak for hiking, you sick jerks.&nbsp; So since my last post, I've been on a national parks frenzy.&nbsp; I've never considered myself a true outdoorsman, but I'm gaining the experience to be a future mountain man.&nbsp; I've even gotten pretty good at blowing snot rockets on the trail.&nbsp; Here's a breakdown of what I've been doing:Abel Tasman National Park: 2 days, 1 night.&nbsp; Hiking, kayaking, campingWhen I wrote my last post, I had gone to the information center with the intention of renting a kayak to tour the park myself (it's a coastal national park).&nbsp; But to my dismay, I found out that no one allows single kayakers to rent kayaks unless they're going on a kayak tour (boo).&nbsp; I thought, 'Where on earth am I going to find another person to go kayaking with?'&nbsp; After thinking for a while, I decided to hike through the park for two days instead.&nbsp; As I was talking to the guy at the information site, I saw someone approach the counter out of the corner of my eye and was curious as to why someone would try to crowd me in like that.&nbsp; She, an Israeli girl, asked me why I was hiking and not kayaking, and I told her I couldn't find anyone to kayak with.&nbsp; It turned out, she also was looking to find someone to kayak with, so we ended up talking and working out a plan to rent kayaks on our own.&nbsp; Eventually we did, and we spent the next 48 hours as if we were a married couple.&nbsp; We went grocery shopping for food, cooked dinner, engaged a French couple in conversation during dinner, and spent the next 48 hours together.&nbsp; The park had some incredible beaches, and they were uncrowded and free of development.&nbsp; The sand was really golden, apparently because the granite cliffs surrounding the beaches become rusted and eventually color the sand into a golden hue.&nbsp; We kayaked for about 3.5 hours, then hiked for another 4 hours to the campsite.&nbsp; During the hike, we found a small waterfall area called Cleopatra's Pool.&nbsp; The waterfall feeding the pool was formed in such a way that it looks like a waterslide, and I rode it several times.&nbsp; Although the water was freezing, it was pretty cool.&nbsp; And while we were there, I was feeling a bit crazy so I asked the poor girl, who I hadn't even known for more than a day, to take a picture of me naked standing on the waterfall with my back to the camera.&nbsp; She did it, and a European couple eating lunch was there to watch as well.&nbsp; Like I said, there's something in the air that makes people crazy.Nelson Lakes National Park - 2 days, 1 night.&nbsp; Hiking.I spent two days at Abel Tasman, and the very next morning I decided to make my way to another park, Nelson Lakes National Park.&nbsp; I thought it'd be a rest and recovery day, since I hiked the past two days.&nbsp; Unfortunately, the bus route doesn't go to the park, so I decided to get off at the closest bus stop and figure it out from there.&nbsp; The bus dropped me off at the bus stop called Kawatiri Junction, and before I got there I thought, 'This will be nice.&nbsp; It'll probably be a big transportation hub and I'll be able to find a way to the park.&nbsp; Sort of like Princeton Junction or Secaucus Junction in New Jersey.'&nbsp; Anyway, the bus announces the stop and lets me off in the middle of the mountains.&nbsp; Apparently, in New Zealand a "junction" is really just an intersection of two highways.&nbsp; Since I had to pre-book the ticket, the bus driver wouldn't let me back on the bus either.&nbsp; So I started walking in the direction of the park, and the road sign said it was 25km away (or 15 miles).&nbsp; Luckily, after about ten minutes of walking with my thumb out, a kayak instructor picked me up and was going to the same town to teach a Search and Rescue course.&nbsp; I arrived and went to a hostel, but they were pretty much booked for the night.&nbsp; Since I didn't want to pay for an expensive room, I decided to start hiking in the park that day and sleep in a backcountry hut.&nbsp; It only took me about 3 hours to walk up most of the first mountain to the hut, so I was by myself at the hut from about 4pm until the next morning.&nbsp; Also, I didn't bring a sleeping bag partly because I like to pack ultralight and mostly because I'm an idiot.&nbsp; I could hardly sleep in the freezing mountaintop hut until I figured out how to stay warm.&nbsp; The hut supplies 4-inch thick mattresses for comfort, so I decided to sleep on one and put one on top of myself.&nbsp; It worked pretty well.&nbsp; The next morning I started trekking along the top of a mountain ridge.&nbsp; I was exposed to strong sun and bitter-cold, unrelenting winds that sometimes made me feel like I'd be blown off the top of the mountain.&nbsp; I made it to the next hut around lunchtime, rested and ate for an hour, then made my way to the following hut, where I had originally planned to stay the night.&nbsp; I got there around 3:00pm and decided that I didn't want to make another sloppy Joe sandwich, so I decided to walk another 2-3 hours back to the parking lot.&nbsp; In total, I was on the trail for 9.5 hours, with a one-hour lunch break.&nbsp; The following day I wanted to get to the west coast and <i>relax.&nbsp; I started walking back to the "junction" and stuck my thumb out at every passing car, but I ended up walking for 2.5 hours (about 12.5km or 7.5 miles).&nbsp; I stopped after that time because I knew I was about halfway and thought I needed a snack and drink break.&nbsp; Not even a minute after stopping, the next car to pass stopped and picked me up.&nbsp; He took me about 20km, past the Kawatiri Junction, then dropped me off.&nbsp; I decided I was too tired to continue walking and just sat with my thumb out.&nbsp; After 40 minutes, three guys in a campervan picked me up and took me about another 50km.&nbsp; And after waiting another 40 minutes, a guy took me to my final destination, Westport.&nbsp; Who knew hitching was such hard work?&nbsp; After that experience, my new hitchhiking rule of <i>thumb (Get it?&nbsp; That's probably not funny and I'd keep my day job, but I don't have one) is to just sit and stick my thumb out, no more walking.&nbsp; So all in all, I walked and trekked about 22 hours in those five days.&nbsp; The West Coast - 5 days.&nbsp; After that, I made my way down the west coast of the South Island and saw some interesting stuff.&nbsp; I would've done more hiking there but I didn't have enough time.&nbsp; I visited a natural formation called the Pancake Rocks in Punakaiki, went to the Monteith's Brewery in Greymouth (best NZ beer), and did a full-day glacier walk on the Fox Glacier.&nbsp; Mt. Aspiring National Park - 3 days.&nbsp; Hiking, camping.Next I went to the town of Wanaka and hitched a ride into Mt. Aspiring National Park.&nbsp; I saw some incredible sights, including really great mountains and glaciers.&nbsp; I think this is the site where they shot the Lighting of the Beacons scene in Lord of the Rings, and it's my favorite park so far.&nbsp; I hiked about 4 hours the first day, 6.5 the second day, and 2.5 the third day.&nbsp; This time I rented a sleeping bag, which made the experience infinitely more comfortable.&nbsp; I met some pretty cool campers at the park, a couple Czechs the first day and a couple Israelis the second.&nbsp; I'm back in Wanaka today, after doing that last 2.5 hour trek and catching a ride with the Israelis I met, and I'm getting ready to move again.&nbsp; It's very difficult to be in this area right now because everyone wants to vacation in this area for Easter weekend and all the hostels have already been booked.&nbsp; So after doing some extensive contingency planning, I will be going to the remote town of Omarama next to stay at a hostel that's also a merino sheep farm.&nbsp; That should be pretty interesting, I haven't seen any merino sheep yet.&nbsp; Now I know I've told some of you that I was going to do some farmstays, but at this point I'm too busy visiting national parks and taking on multi-day treks.&nbsp; I only have 1.5 weeks left and after three days at the sheep farm, I still need to visit Fiordland National Park, Mt. Cook National Park, and Lake Tekapo.&nbsp; I don't even know if I'll have time to stop in the city of Christchurch before my next flight.&nbsp; Also, I've been traveling for about five weeks now and when I look at pictures of myself that were taken recently, I think I look about two years younger.&nbsp; I feel younger as well, and that's a great thing.&nbsp; Another thing I've noticed about myself is a change in my personality.&nbsp; I've always known in the back of my head that every adult is responsible for managing his/her own life and being proactive, but now I'm living that principle.&nbsp; If I want something, I do something about it and ask for it without worrying about negative what-ifs because literally no one will do anything for me if I don't speak up.&nbsp; If I need a ride somewhere, I ask people at the hostel for a ride if I'm at a hostel or at a campsite.&nbsp; In Punakaiki, I was sitting on the rocks at a beach in front of my hostel and saw a girl from the hostel sitting by herself.&nbsp; She seemed pretty cool and I wanted to talk to her, so I did.&nbsp; I walked straight up to her and we ended up talking for about three hours.&nbsp; In Greymouth, I ordered my lunch from a girl at a pizzeria who was the best-looking local girl I've seen thus far in New Zealand.&nbsp; I wanted to talk to her so after finishing my lunch I asked her out to dinner.&nbsp; This philosophy is permeating into thoughts about my life goals as well.&nbsp; I'm starting to learn to look more at the goal and not at any of the obstacles.&nbsp; I'm not sure if it's conquering multi-day treks or living a more proactive life that make me feel this way - maybe both.&nbsp; But I must say: Keeping my life simple,&nbsp;actively&nbsp;pursuing everything I want, and not worrying about negative what-ifs - now that's what I call freedom.&nbsp;
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1209479220/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1209479220/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/2/1209479220/tpod.html Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:37:31 -0400 Backpacking the South Pacific - 4 island nations, 4 months...

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Margaret River, Australia

"Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things - air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky - all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it." - Cesare PaveseWell, since my last post I took a 40-hour train ride from Adelaide to Perth.&nbsp; I bought the cheapest seat available, which meant that I had to sleep in a reclining seat instead of a bunk for two nights.&nbsp; I was able to 'stretch out' over two seats and, although I tried several variations of the classic fetal position, I never got very comfortable.&nbsp; The next day, I was pretty tired and tried reading a book, but eventually befriended two Canadian girls.&nbsp; The following night I had another rough night of sleep, and when I arrived in Perth on Saturday I had two couchsurfing appointments.&nbsp; I sent out a ton of requests, but since it was a holiday weekend I only got two responses.&nbsp; I met the first one, but she ended up being pretty shy.&nbsp; She brought a friend named Jeff, and after lunch she left so Jeff and I decided to visit the hippie beach town of Fremantle for the afternoon.&nbsp; It seems that a typical Saturday afternoon in Australia means that people spend the entire afternoon talking and drinking at the local pubs, so we decided to take the 'when in Rome' approach and had a few brews ourselves.&nbsp; Later, I met the second couchsurfer outside of Perth and hung out at her house for the night.&nbsp; The next day we went to the movies to watch SemiPro and eat meat pies.&nbsp; At this point I was pretty tired not only from the train ride but the feeling of constantly running from place to place since I got to Australia.&nbsp; I decided to rehabilitate myself in the town of Margaret River.&nbsp; I didn't know much about it, but when I arrived I found that the place was famous for surfing and wineries.&nbsp; The winery tours seemed pretty expensive and not very interesting, so I decided to go surfing instead.&nbsp; I found a hostel right near the beach and did a surfing lesson the next day.&nbsp; My instructor was the top female surfer in Western Australia, and I did pretty well for my second time on a board (first time was in Costa Rica).&nbsp; I never fully realized how tiring surfing is until that day.&nbsp; After about half an hour, I had to lie down on the beach for a fifteen minute rest, and from that point on I could only do fifteen minutes before another fifteen minute rest.&nbsp; The paddling and the constant battering by waves can take it out of you pretty quickly.&nbsp; The next day I decided to rent a board and try surfing with an Irish surfer guy I met at the hostel, but the waves were pretty bad.&nbsp; That's it, it wasn't that I sucked so bad that I couldn't catch anything.&nbsp; The Irish guy even said it himself.&nbsp; I split my time in Margaret River between surfing, eating, and watching TV and movies because I was too weary to do much else.&nbsp; The exhaustion from constantly moving can hit you physically, mentally, and emotionally, and when the three come together at the same time it requires a lot of rehab time and TLC.&nbsp; My sleeping patterns have changed since I started traveling also, which means I can get tired if I don't slow down every so often.&nbsp; I may need another rehab session pretty soon.&nbsp; Luckily though, the pace of my itinerary is pretty slow for the remainder of my trip.&nbsp; See you on the (upper) west coast, mates.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1183012680/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1183012680/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1183012680/tpod.html Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:34:51 -0400 Teaching Ticos to talk to Gringos.

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Ida San Luis, Costa Rica

So, the last few weeks have been interesting.&nbsp; The information sheet that I got was somewhat inaccurate because the family I was supposed to live with moved to a different part of the country.&nbsp; Now, I am living with a close friend of theirs in a 2-bedroom house which is about the size of a large studio apartment.&nbsp; My host "mother" is 24 years old with 3 children.&nbsp; The house has poured concrete floors, concrete walls, and a metal roof (read: conducts heat easily when sunny and sound when raining).&nbsp; The four family members squeezed into a single bedroom so that I could have my own room.&nbsp; There was nothing in there but a twin bed until this week, when I received a dinky night table composed of 2 shelves.&nbsp; I've never been so happy to get such a dinky piece of furniture because now some of my stuff can be off the floor.&nbsp; The first few days were hot and sunny, and I sweated a ton.&nbsp; After that, though, it started raining and cooling off.&nbsp; These days the weather is unpredictable: clouds roll in very quickly, rain heavily, then move on.&nbsp; The mosquitoes almost made me crazy.&nbsp; It was a difficult tradeoff between keeping my window open at night to stay cool and closing my window to keep the bugs out.&nbsp; Even with the mosquito net, they somehow find ways in.&nbsp; During the day, I have to wear repellent to keep these tiny biting bugs called bocones off me.&nbsp; The furniture in my living room is patio chairs.&nbsp; My host house also didn't have a refrigerator until this week.&nbsp; My host mother borrowed a refrigerator and washing machine from her mother and used the standard moving service in my town: a pair of oxen pulling a flat cart.&nbsp; The house also has sporadic water outages, and no hot water.&nbsp; The tubes that flow into my house aren't very reliable for some reason, and if I really need water for drinking or bathing, I need to go to my host aunt's house, which is about 1 km away.&nbsp; I don't have access to a phone in this town, and to get to one I have to walk for at least 2 hours on rough dirt roads.&nbsp; WorkClasses are held in the salon (or community center) while the real school is being built.&nbsp; The salon has no lights and no walls, so everyone can generally see and hear everything in the other classes.&nbsp;&nbsp; There are three other teachers, and 16 students in the 7th grade, 10 in 8th grade, and 8 in 9th grade.&nbsp; I think the ages range from 12 to 27.&nbsp;&nbsp; If a student fails any subject, they have to retake the entire grade.&nbsp; It seems like the schedule is very lax because it looks like some classes are lacking teachers.&nbsp; In all classes, there is only one book for everyone, so a student copies excerpts from the text onto the board so that the rest of the class can copy it into their notebooks.&nbsp; The lunches are made and served in a nearby building where a wood-burning stove is used.&nbsp; The students are well-behaved (I'm lucky) and know very basic English.&nbsp; Teaching has been fun but a little challenging because sometimes the students don't understand the material, don't respond well to the material, or I run out of material too quickly.&nbsp; In those cases, I have to modify the lessons on the fly while appearing to know what I'm doing.&nbsp; New ExperiencesSince I've been living here, I've had fresh coconut juice and coconut (both green and orange), fresh guava, and fresh bananas.&nbsp; I've also had the opportunity to practice riding a motorcycle and a horse.&nbsp; I've swam in a river to cool off and practice my diving.&nbsp; The town has no commercial enterprises except for a few convenience stores, so there really is nothing to do.&nbsp; For that reason, I've never gotten so much sleep in my life.&nbsp; Free TimeMy free time is generally spent sitting on my front porch in a rocking chair thinking about whatever comes to mind.&nbsp; I also read and play Playstation One at a student's house.&nbsp; I play soccer when I'm not injured, but I seem to be injuring myself minorly a lot for some reason.&nbsp; Good things about living in the U.S.:Paved roads (although too much is no good either)Reliable utilities (as stated above, water in my house is unreliable and electricity goes out sometimes)Garbage disposal and recycling programs (people burn trash here)Communications (no phone or internet, TV antenna only gets one fuzzy channel)Hot waterAir conditioningFurnitureLower humidityGood things about living in Costa Rica:Lots of TIME: time to sleep, time to think, time to read, time for everythingTranquility (very low stress, if any)General friendliness and feeling of communityFresh food (fruits, meats, etc.)
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1185853200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1185853200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1185853200/tpod.html Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:25:34 -0400 Teaching Ticos to talk to Gringos.

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San Carlos, Nicaragua

The schools had a holiday today, so I decided to use the long weekend to travel.  Because I don´t have a phone at my site, I had to trek it alone to San Carlos, Nicaragua.  This town is on the southeastern edge of the gigantic Lake Nicaragua.  So first I had to take a 3-hour bus ride from my site to Upala, then a 2-hour bus ride to a town called Los Chiles, then a 1.5 hour boat ride up the Rio Frio (Cold River) to San Carlos.  As I approached the dock I thought, What a dump this is.  The buildings facing the water were very dilapidated, and I couldn´t see one nice building.  After going through immigration, I decided to look for a place to stay.  I found a hostel nearby that cost about $2.50.  I discovered soon why it was so cheap.  First, as soon as I paid the lady, I couldn´t find her to ask her questions about the area.  Second, my room was 7´ by 6´, so just long enough to fit a twin bed and almost wide enough to fit 2 twin beds.  Third, I discovered that they don´t have running water; instead, I had to use water from barrels to brush my teeth and take showers.  I arrived there on Saturday afternoon, and I decided to try to find a tour.  Some of the available tours were fishing on the lake, going to an archipelago in the lake, and taking a boat tour of the Rio San Juan.  Unfortunately, I couldn´t find a tour company that could do a tour on such short notice without costing an arm and a leg.  Plus, the townspeople didn´t seem too open to tourists.  Dejected, I decided to turn in pretty early and take the first boat back to Los Chiles, Costa Rica.  The next morning, I went to the immigration office to figure out when the first boat was, and it was pretty late, 12 noon.  However, I did see a poster for a tourist company.  After coincidentally finding the owner of the company in the streets, I ended up doing some rustic fishing with one of his guides.  We used wooden sticks with fishing line at the edges of the lake, and I caught several small fish.  The owner, a French expat, invited me to eat lunch with him at his office/lodge.  I was treated very well for being a guest who wasn´t paying too much to do one of his tours.  Finally, in the afternoon I took the last boat back to Los Chiles.  I took a 5am bus back to Upala on Monday morning, which was the school holiday.  As I waited for my bus, I found out that it wasn´t running that day, so I had to spend an extra day in Upala.  I decided to indulge myself with Cinecanal, the only cable TV channel that shows movies only in English, and I got my fill of English-speaking TV and movies.  Thus ends my weekend in Nicaragua that was almost a complete bust, but in the end was saved by the Frenchman. 
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1187382720/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1187382720/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/costa_rica_2007/1187382720/tpod.html Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:22:13 -0400 Teaching Ticos to talk to Gringos.

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Puerto Jimenez, Costa Rica

Well, I'm about to leave Costa Rica.  This trip has been really incredible.  I left my site on August 9th, had an end-of-service meeting in San Jose, and had a week to travel by myself.  I was surprised how many people in my town asked me when I was going to return.  I really felt like my mission wasn't accomplished; there were a lot more lessons to teach and people to meet.  That feeling weakened a little once I went to Puerto Jimenez, in southern Costa Rica.  It's on the Osa Peninsula, which National Geographic called the most biologically intense place on Earth.  Up to this point in the trip, I hadn't seen wildlife even on my hikes and was looking forward to finally seeing some tropical animals.  During my stay there, I saw some scarlet macaws, which are parrot-like birds which are red, blue, and yellow.  I also saw chestnut-mandibled toucans, squirrel monkeys, white-face capuchin monkeys, caimans, and crocodiles.  During a sea-kayaking trip, I also saw a stingray jumping in and out of the water, pretty close to my kayak.  Puerto Jimenez is my favorite place in Costa Rica.  There is a great mix of tourists, expats, and locals, and the town is somewhat small (4 by 7 blocks) so it's pretty intimate.  The locals are very friendly and much more open than locals in other towns I've been to.  The wildlife is everywhere, you only need to look into the trees to see some of the animals listed above.  A famous national park, Parque Nacional Corcovado, is within 30 km, as is Cabo Matapalo, which is a top surfer's beach.  Puerto Jimenez is also on the amazing Golfo Dulce, a warm-water gulf which has deserted beaches, good sportfishing opportunities, and really great views.  I was really happy that I decided to go here, have I sold you yet?  This last week, traveling alone, was like my final exam for this trip.  Not only was I backpacking alone, but I also was testing my Spanish skills with new people.  I think I did pretty well.  It was incredible how friendly and welcoming the people were in my last week, and the fact that I spoke Spanish maximized my chances to talk to and get valuable travel information from them.  In Cabo Matapalo, there were no cheap places to eat, so I decided to eat with the family who ran the hostel I stayed in.  They only charged me $5, while the nearest restaurant was charging $20 for dinner.  The next day, I ate with another local family twice.  When I went back to Puerto Jimenez, a local guy decided to show me the caimans for free, then we went sea-kayaking on the gulf.  All of these encounters with local people were in Spanish, which made me proud because I couldn't even get through customs or communicate with my host families in the first 3 weeks of this trip.  And it's sad to leave because there's a good chance that I'll forget a lot when I return to the U.S.  In conclusion, I think my decision to take this trip was possibly my most brilliant ever.  It gave me a new perspective, a chance to live in a different culture and way of life, a chance to have fun teaching, opportunities to backpack with others and by myself, chances to meet people from all around the world, and a break from my normal life.  I'd recommend this type of experience to anyone.  I want to thank everyone who supported me morally and financially.  See you all soon.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/3/1230333300/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/3/1230333300/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/joeleeis/3/1230333300/tpod.html Mon, 09 Feb 2009 02:53:10 -0500 "Studying" Abroad in Italia - A Long-Awaited Experience

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Rome, Lazio, Italy

Lois: Kids, keep it down.  I haven't even told your father that... (whispering) Aunt Marguerite is coming to town.  Peter (coming into the room): Who said Marguerite?Lois: Peter, it's just for a week.  Peter: A week?!  Aw, jeez.  No, no, no, no.  Please God, kill me now.  No, no, damn, crap, damn it to hell, son of a... Lois: Peter!  Peter: Lois, sometimes it's appropriate to swear.- from the Family Guy My, how times have changed.  I really should change the title of this blog from "studying" in quotes to STUDYING with large, bold letters.  This study abroad experience differs from a typical undergraduate one in that undergraduate study abroad programs usually involve going to another academic institution and not working too strenuously (it seems that way, I've never actually done it), whereas I'm in a graduate program at my own institution's campus abroad and working about as hard (I think) as my classmates at the U.S. campus.  One big concern I had before coming to Italy was that a shortage of time would force me to choose between studying and traveling.  I thought, I know I'm here to study, but there are so many places both within and around Italy that would be so easy to get to.   Well, I was confronted with that choice at the end of October, and from then until Christmas break, a duration of about nine weeks, I only traveled one weekend (to Florence).  The rest of the time was mostly devoted to school and studying, and I spent almost all my time between the school building (including classes and the library), my place, and my girlfriend's place, with a few exceptions for dinner parties and concerts.  I was fortunate enough to get some of the last cheap tickets to see performances of the Soweto Gospel Choir and Yo-Yo Ma in Bologna.   December travel: Florence (2 days), Switzerland (5 days), Siena (a day), and Sirmione (a day).  As I said, I was only able to travel during school for one weekend, but I did have a two-week winter break to travel with my girlfriend (see pictures on Picasa).  In Florence, I saw a lot of famous art in the Uffizi Gallery but missed out on Michaelangelo's statue of David.  Switzerland was an incredible place to go skiing and snowboarding, and the mountains seemed to be everywhere and never-ending.  Growing up, I spent a few winters skiing in the majestic Poconos of Pennsylvania.  There, you could take a four-minute lift ride to the top of the slopes and look out onto the flat plains of northern Pennsylvania.  At the ski place in Interlaken, Switzerland, I arrived by bus and couldn't even see anyone on the slopes.  I later found out that I needed to take a 30-35 minute gondola ride to get to the top of the mountain, and once I was there I couldn't see anything but mountains everywhere around me.  I also spent my first Christmas away from home in Bern, Switzerland.  Although it was nice being there during my winter break, being away from home for Christmas was more difficult than I'd thought.   I also spent a brief amount of time in Lucerne, which is pretty touristy but still very quaint.  Back in Italy, I took two day trips, and each of the places had such great medieval character. January travel: my apartment and the school (27 days).  The program here started in October, so the first semester ended January 31st (after winter break).  From my first day back at school in 2009, I was absolutely pounded with work in the form of individual papers, group papers, group presentations, final exams, and such.  The day after I finished my last exam, my parents and grandmother arrived (but don't worry, I'm much more open to hosting family members than Peter.  That's a good thing since they're staying for a whole two weeks!). February travel (thus far): Switzerland (3 days), Rome (3.5 days).  This is my parents' and grandmother's first experiences in Europe, and I think things are going well so far.   I have to travel according to their pace, but that's ok since I'm still recovering from the last semester.  We first went to Switzerland, and being the practical people that they are, my parents and grandmother kept talking about how expensive it must be to create all the transportation infrastructure there, including train tracks and tunnels that allow cars to pass through mountains.  They were even more impressed that all the roads were toll-free.  An example of "traveling at their pace" involved sightseeing in Zurich.  They didn't feel like walking around too much so they decided to sightsee by hopping on and off different trams and looking out the windows.  It gave us all a chance to relax and snooze while looking around the city.  After a quick break in Bologna, we went to Rome, and I must admit that the sights here are very impressive.  We spent our first day walking around the Colosseum, the Roman Forum (a mini-city in ruins where ancient Rome was centered in B.C.), and Circus Maximus (which is barely recognizable anymore as a racetrack).  The next day we went to Vatican City to see St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums, both really well-done.  Everything in the Basilica, including the building itself, is so big that the place doesn't seem very... big.  Usually, the line to get tickets to the Museums can take hours, but luckily there was no line when we got there.  The Museums had so much artwork inside that it must've taken many, many labor-hours to finish.  The Museums house the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel, and of course those were impressive as well.  My grandmother, at the tender age of 85, had to go up and down many sets of stairs to get through the Museums but fared well.  We also saw the Spanish Steps.  Today, we visited some other areas that we didn't have a chance to visit on the other days.  We first went to the Markets of Trajan, ruins in the first and second centuries A.D.  Next, we visited the Capitoline Hill War Memorial.  Then we visited the Pantheon, supposedly the best-preserved ancient Roman building in Rome.  Finally, we went to the Trevi Fountain, an enormous monument.  I was also impressed by the ubiquitousness of MacDonald's in the famous places around Rome.  Whenever I got off a subway or bus, the signs pointing to the closest MacDonald's always seemed to show me the way, like on the way to the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, and Piazza della Repubblica.  This weekend marks the end of my semester break but I plan to do some traveling with my parents next week and hopefully more in the near future.  Lately, I feel much more like a professional graduate student.  I spent the early part of the first semester trying to determine what was the best way to manage my time, the best way to take notes, and the most efficient ways to study in general.  I think I've come a long way in determining what the best way is for me to do many of the things I need to do for school.  Hopefully, that means that I'll be able to devote a bit less time to my schoolwork and a bit more time to myself, which would be really nice since so much of my time, while it involves studying for me, makes me feel like my time, energy, and thoughts aren't actually mine for me to use the way I'd like (even if I am enjoying the program and my classes).  So, as my semester break winds down, I intend to enjoy every last minute of it.  That means ending this blog entry right here.  A presto!
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