TravelStream™ news feed for member howieb on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/howieb en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sat, 01 Nov 2008 08:17:02 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/howieb/4/1224027120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/howieb/4/1224027120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/howieb/4/1224027120/tpod.html Sat, 01 Nov 2008 08:17:02 -0400 Japan from Head to Knee

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Nagoya, Chubu, Japan

Although it is one of Japan's international gateways, with few major cultural relics and heavily bombed during WWII Nagoya is something of a touristic also-ran. But fine arts, crafts and classic architecture are not everything. Technology counts too, and Nagoya is home to some important technological history, most notably that of Toyota.

Toyota began as Toyoda, a company founded at the end of the 19th century by Sakichi Toyoda, a very talented innovator of spinning and weaving mechanisms. We visited the Toyota Techno Museum which showcases in remarkable detail the history of textile technology and the many contributions made by Toyoda and the Loom Works that still bears his name. Dana was literally moved to tears the wonder of how mechanical ingenuity and grit transformed spinning and weaving, making a significant part of life as we live it today possible. Working models of the equipment are staffed and the workings of the equipment old and new were demonstrated to us.

Sakichi's son, Kiichiro, brought similar drive for research and development to automotive technology and persuaded his father to invest in developing an automobile. The rest, as they say, is history, and that history is, of course, detailed through many exhibits. In addition to those, there are exhibits which demonstrate on full-size automobile chassis' the workings of a car's systems. Real presses, welding robots and assembly equipment show how the body is formed, welded and married to the drive system components. Last is something especially for the kids: a collection of fun experiments that illustrate mechanical principles.

Not content with only seeing a demonstration of automotive assembly, we made a day trip to Toyota City, about an hour outside of Nagoya. Tour groups gather at the Kaikan Exhibition Hall which highlights future technology and showcases the current crop of Toyota vehicles sold in Japan.

From there we were bussed to one of the assembly plants. From a catwalk over the factory floor, we observed the robotic welding of unibodies and the entire assembly process. The assembly plant was surprisingly quiet and the smooth, flexible automation of many operations quite impressive. As we watched, we could see the quality processes pioneered by the Toyota company at work. If any worker has a problem that can not be dealt with while the vehicle slowly moves by, any worker is empowered to stop the line and the problem is dealt with before the line is restarted. All the more impressive is how all of this is coordinated on a mixed-vehicle line, with each part for each vehicle delivered to each location where it is needed as it is needed.

On the way back to the exhibition hall I got an answer to something that has puzzled me for some time: Why is it that the company changed its name from the founder's name, Toyoda, to Toyota? Two reasons were offered. In humble Japanese fashion, Mr. Toyoda did not want the product to be so identified with him personally, as so many others contributed to the company's success. The second, and I think more important reason, is rooted in numerology. It takes ten pen strokes to write Toyoda in Katakana (the Japanese rough equivalent of an alphabet), but it takes only eight strokes to write Toyota and, you guessed it, in Japan eight is a very lucky number.

Speaking of luck, Nagoya also is the home of pachinko, one of the most obvious and puzzling forms of recreation for many Japanese. Pachinko is kind of like playing a slot machine, but instead of watching the dials spin around, you watch steel balls drop through a gauntlet of pins. The balls bounce off the pins and some of them are swallowed up and some of them are delivered to you. Get enough balls and you can trade them in for swell prizes. The awarding of prizes makes it not-quite-gambling, which keeps it legal.

I have seen pachinko parlors all over Japan. Their size, some as large as a major department store, and eye-catching exteriors make them impossible to miss. My guidebook tells me that collectively the Japanese spend $300 billion a year on the game.

To walk into a pachinko parlor is to have one's senses be assaulted at once by a deafening cacophony of amplified and repeated electronic sounds and thousands of steel balls plunking the pins. The reek of stale cigarette smoke hits your nose and bright light and garish colors sear your retinas. I read that sitting entranced by the falling balls, the accompanying animated video and the blaring noise is somehow a great stress reliever. Whatever it does for people, it is clear that it is very habit-forming.
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Kobe, Kinki, Japan

Yesterday we made a day-trip to Kobe, site of a disastrous earthquake thirteen years ago in which over 6,000 perished. To learn more about the quake we visited the Disaster Reduction Museum. It begins with a multimedia presentation that recreates the experience of the earthquake. It is hard to believe that much of the footage is documentary, but given all the security video cameras operating these days, perhaps less of it was recreated than I thought. In conjunction with the powerful bass of the speakers, it was soberingly chilling to see the collapse of buildings, highways and bridges. More disturbing was that many of the structures that failed had been engineered to withstand such shaking.

We were then ushered through a corridor diorama that recreates a street as it appeared just after the devastation. It led to a theater that shows a documentary about the destruction and the long recovery process. The film balances the distress of the city's people with the sense of community it fostered as the city struggled to reconstitute itself. Simultaneous English translation is provided.

Next the story is retold in more detail through photographs, artifacts and descriptive materials. The final section has a collection of hands-on games and demonstrations that illustrate how earthquakes cause damage and what each of us can do to prepare for their eventuality.

After seeing all that horror and the reminder of how we are likely facing something similar to it in Seattle, we needed a drink. So we headed over to the Hakutsuru sake brewing museum.

Instead of a factory tour, Hakutsuru offers a recreation of how sake was made before the process was modernized. Video presentations available on demand in English featuring documentary footage of how sake was made in 1928 are presented adjacent to the actual equipment used in the traditional process. I had not previously understood how the starch in rice was converted to sugar for the yeast to turn it into alcohol. Unlike beer brewing in which the enzymes created from the sprouting of barley do the job, a mold is utilized, so it is a kind of double fermentation that is more complex and laborious than either beer brewing or wine making.

At the end of the tour, we got the drink we had looked forward to, a chilled cup of fresh, unpasteurized sake. Somewhat more alcoholic than the finished, bottled product, it was at once refreshing and warming. We strolled back to the train station lightly abuzz.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/howieb/4/1224193260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/howieb/4/1224193260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/howieb/4/1224193260/tpod.html Fri, 31 Oct 2008 18:11:39 -0400 Japan from Head to Knee

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Shiraishi Island, Japan

We are spending a couple of days on Shiraishi, one of the many islands in the Seto Inland Sea that separates the main island of Honshu from Shikoku. By the flora, we conclude that the climate here is quite temperate. The weather we have for our stay could not be better: sunny and 70. Only a twenty-minute passenger ferry ride from the Kasaoka train station, this it is a popular summer destination for Japanese seeking a respite from the crush of urban life. Once the summer has passed, it gets very quiet here, with only a few hundred year-round residents, mostly retirees. Most get around the settled area of the island on foot along narrow lanes, though there are a couple of roads.

We are staying at the island's International Villa, one of several established by the Okayama Prefecture. Created to give international visitors a taste of the more rural areas of the prefecture, they are located a bit off the beaten track. They charge a remarkably low $25/night/person plus a $5 annual membership fee. For this modest sum, each of the villas provide visitors with a comfortable private room, complete kitchen facilities and a laundry. Just add groceries and you have all the fixings for a comfortable budget travel experience.

The Shiraishi villa is situated on a rise overlooking the sea looking back toward Honshu. The view begins with houses and their gardens leading to a narrow beach. Beyond are some small rocky islands, Honshu's coastal industry and the hills beyond. Take a hike on one of the network of groomed trails and you can get fine views of the sea dotted with islands near and far. Return for a meal and spend some time on the deck in the afternoon shade reading, listening to the birds, watching the boat traffic as the sunset gradually approaches. It's a delicious break from sightseeing.

Sadly, it appears that the villas' days may be numbered. A financial crisis in the prefecture has fostered a push to close them as they operate with a public subsidy. I hope that they can make some adjustment that will preserve access to this lovely spot.

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Takayama, Chubu, Japan

Today we departed from Takayama,, a small city with a big history set in a valley in the Japanese alps of central Honshu. We hurried there from Hokkaido to arrive in time for the harvest festival in which eleven ornate floats, perhaps fifteen feet tall, are paraded about town. As darkness falls, paper lanterns are lit and hung from each float in multiple rings. Men in traditional costumes pull and push them with the real excitement coming when they must make a right angle turn at a corner in a narrow lane. This is because most of the floats are supported by four wagon wheels that have no steering mechanism, requiring that a hidden fifth wheel in the center be lowered and the whole contraption tipped so that it can swivel on three wheels. Atop each float rides a bunch of children, so as the float tips, one has a vicarious, vertiginous dread that the kids may come tumbling on down from the heights. But, precarious as it looks, despite occasional gasps from the rapt crowd, there were no mishaps.

Tourists also come to Takayama to see the neighborhood of Edo Period merchant shops. Like Georgetown in D.C., these structures ranging from two- to four-hundred years old are quite narrow because buildings were taxed by their frontage. Now offering regional delicacies to tourists, the quarter gives one a flavor of old Japan that is no longer so easy to find.

We stayed at Zenko-ji, a Zen Buddhist temple that now serves mostly as a hostel. It is well worn, but comfortable, well sited and, for Japan, cheap. As these are rooms of traditional Japanese construction, the walls are literally paper thin, so your night's rest is dependent upon the kindness of strangers and whether or not they snore. A bonus is the large and very well equipped eat-in kitchen.

We came to Takayama by way of a flight to Toyama and a slow-going local bus ride of two and a half hours to the World Heritage Site of Shirakawa-go. We really enjoyed riding the milk-run from which we could take in a series of villages with a lot of small-scale agriculture. Shirakawa-go is really a set of three closely set villages which contain a number of traditional gassho-zukari (praying hands) houses with steep roofs that are deeply thatched, rather like an A-frame house. The large houses that are seen there today give a misleading perception of rural life in the region. These surviving structures were those of village heads and their extended families and much of the house was given over to raising silkworms. Most people lived in simlar structures the size of a toolshed. It's very touristy, but well worth taking in.

We are now on a train headed for Nagoya, a major industrial center and international gateway. It is a lovely ride, gradually descending thorough valleys offering views of rushing rivers flanked by forested mountains and passing through small towns with small-scale logging here and there. The expected highlight of our stay there is the tour of the nearby Toyota factory.

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Hakodate, Hokkaido, Japan

We are finishing up a couple of days in Hakodate, a middling-sized port city at the southeastern tip of Hokkaido, Japan's large north island. We began our stay with a visit to the large fish and produce markets. We were quite taken by the displays of seafood, particularly the many types of crab. There was lots of live squid and scallops as well.

We then made the climb to the series of small peaks that tower over the town. Pleasingly wooded, they provide the city with a fine place to walk and do a bit of birdwatching. For those who are less energetic, there is a ropeway that runs up to the highest peak, and it spared us the walk down. During our walk we encountered several small groups of seniors out for a mid-morning constitutional, and were humbled as some of them passed us. Coming upon a group of older women who had stopped for a snack, one approached us, offering us some chili-seasoned slivered dried squid. This inspired the others, and one by one they came over and giggling they each gave us a little something: nori-wrapped rice crackers, tiny sugary almond cookies, coconut-mint candies.

For dinner we made our first visit to a sushi restaurant since arriving in Japan. It was one of those places with small plates on a conveyor, but this place had not one, but two tracks. Plates of two pieces ranged from $1.30 for mackerel to $6.80 for a pair of large sweet crab legs, with most plates around $3. A novel feature was the green tea bags tucked into a little drawer with a hot water spigot at each table.

This is our first stay at a Toyoko Inn, a very successful chain of no-frills "business" hotels popular with businessmen and budget travelers. We have booked stays in a number of Toyoko Inns, so I was hoping to discover that we would not be sleeping in a slightly oversized closet. As with every other concern I had about visiting Japan, we have been pleasantly surprised.

Our room is small, but with efficient design it is not crowded for those traveling light. Instead of using an innerspring, the thin, firm but comfortable mattress is on a platform. This provides plenty of space to tuck our bags under the bed. The bathroom is a compact integrated unit that includes a small, but deep, tub with shower that shares the sink's swiveling faucet. And even in a hotel of this sort you get a toilet seat with an integrated bidet. With your room you also receive a simple Japanese breakfast and sometimes even a simple curry dinner. Add to that laundry facilities and locations near the train stations and one sees quite clearly the success of their formula.

Tomorrow we fly to Toyama on the main island of Honshu to quickly make our way to a big festival in Takayama.

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Noboribetsu Onsen, Hokkaido, Japan

Japan is an onsen-rich country, and in Hokkaido it has been developed to a remarkable degree. To see it in it's most developed form, we took a train to Noboribetsu to immerse ourselves in what must be the pinnacle of Japanese bath resortdom. and we manage to do it without getting soaked. We stayed at the Takimoto Inn, the poor little sister of the Dai-ichi Takimoto-kan which has 29 baths in seven different flavors. There are two walking baths, one hot and one cold, each with a range of textures underfoot. If you want to zone-out, but not drown, there is the warm, shallow reclining bath. The steam room has cold water on hand to soak your feet or pour over your head. Thick ropes of water fall from fifteen feet to massage aching shoulders. And, of course, there is a whirlpool and a sauna.

While soaking Dana and I could separately take in the waning daylight falling on Jigokudani, the source of all the hot water. Translated as Hell Valley, and colored by the minerals in the water, a walk around the area will take you to such novelties as a hot lake and a warm stream you can wade in.

Unless you want to take in the kitschy amusements in town or turn into a prune, one night here is all one needs.
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Toya-ko, Hokkaido, Japan

Toya-ko, like all the large lakes on the Hokkaido, is the collapsed caldera of a volcano, and this accounts for the hot water that springs up hither and thither around the lake. With its pair of conical wooded islands near its center, the lake is quite picturesque. The resorts clustered along the lake shore can be pretty pricey, but we managed to find a relatively moderately priced room at the aptly named Toya-ko Onsen Hotel. For about $170 per night we got a room facing away from the lake with breakfast, dinner and all the bathing you can take.

The hotel is a little run down, but the kitchen still works fine. After a good soak, we toddled down to the dining room for dinner. Seated on cushions in the large tatami room, we were treated to a beautifully arrayed collection of seafood raw, cooked and preserved, each served in a dish with some variation in form, texture or color to add visual interest. Of course, there were the constant companions of miso soup, pickles, rice and tea. Counting lids, there were sixteen dishes on each of our tray-tables. Japan, perhaps more than any other country, must appreciate the advent of the automatic dishwasher. This was probably as close to formal Japanese cuisine as we will get during our stay.

I should note that we took dinner attired in our matching yukatas, long robes worn here when relaxation is job one. These are commonly supplied as a courtesy by all sorts of accommodations here. At resorts, people not only wear yukatas throughout the hotel, but it is even considered decorous to stroll about outside in one. If it is chilly, you can top the yukata with a contrasting hip length jacket. The yukata is intended to reach nearly to the floor. Being so much taller than most Japanese, I was showing a good bit of leg as I passed through the lobby on my way to the baths. I was pleased when a sharp-eyed front-desk clerk brought me out a big-and-tall sized replacement.

After being bowled over by breakfast, we headed out to get a close look at Usuzan, a very active volcano. An aerial ropeway carried us up to a view of adjacent Showa Shinzan, a lava dome which rose during the 1977 eruption. The ropeway saved our legs for the ups and downs of the hike to see the still-steaming crater and lava dome of Usuzan which erupted four times in the last century. As a bonus, from the crater's rim you have a sweeping view of the arching coastline and the Oshima-hanto Peninsula across the sea.

The next day we hiked through areas that sustained damage during the 2000 eruption of Usuzan. Left standing are two buildings inundated by mudflow and pounded by rock spewed by the volcano. The more striking open-air museum piece is the highway bridge that was pushed along a quarter of a mile. Several small craters can be seen on the trail, and going further one can see the section of highway deformed and abandoned after the 1977 eruption as well as many long-abandoned homes. Also in evidence are the substantial efforts made to guide anticipated mudflows from the next eruption away from the town.

To get more perspective on the area's volcanic history, we visited the new and impressive Volcanic Science Museum. In addition to coverage of the volcanoes, creative displays highlight the local flora and fauna. A theater with sensurround makes visceral the modern history of the volcano. It is well worth the modest price of admission.
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Asahikawa, Hokkaido, Japan

I am writing from my comfortable, legroom-rich seat on a train bound for Sapporo, the principal city of Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost major island. This is our first of a number of train trips we will take here. My guess is that the car is which we are riding is better-than-average, but if the remainder come at all close, we shall be duly impressed, all the more so because we are traveling in ordinary class.

After dropping the car in Asahikawa, we checked into our first business hotel. Tiny, but serviceable, I was delighted to discover I could stand up in the step-up-into tiny bathroom. The best thing about the hotel was its Japanese/Western breakfast buffet, which made up for its frequent mediocrity with its great variety.

Well stuffed, we then caught the bus to Daisetszan National Park. Arriving in the middle of a glorious day, we headed straightaway to the aerial ropeway which took us to about 6,000 feet where we could walk a couple of miles of trails to views of the snow-covered Asahidake peak. There had been some early snow which had begun to melt in spots, so it was a soggy walk for ill-equipped us. Still, the panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and the lowlands stretching back to Asahikawa were splendid. Reminding us that this is an active volcano were the fumaroles that punctuate the peak, endlessly spewing sulfurous steam.

Returning from our hike with cold and sodden feet, we were especially anxious to get to the gender-segregated onsen at the hostel, one inside, and one outside that is hotter. Ahh.

We were slowed down the next day by a morning of heavy rain that let up about midday. This gave us a chance at a snow-free hike near the hostel. We expected a cake-walk, but the trail climbed more than we thought and the with the fresh rain forest growth around us we got quite wet again. Once again, it was a delight to to get back for a good hot soak.

Our destination today is an onsen resort located on the shore of Lake Toya in southern Hokkaido. Toya-ko is very popular, so we are expecting the full-on Japanese tourist experience.
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Lake Akan National Park, Japan

Leaving Shiratoko, we drove over the mountains toward Rasu on the opposite side of the peninsula. The drive across offers fabulous views across the mountains to the Kuril Islands over which Japan and Russia have been squabbling since World War II.

After a longish drive along the coast we turned inland, making our way through farmland with a backdrop of forested volcanic peaks to Mashu-ko Youth Hostel near Lake Mashu, one of two volcano caldera lakes that form Akan National Park. This recently constructed hostel provides spacious and sunny western-style rooms and nice traditional baths. Adjacent to the hostel is an affiliated restaurant that serves western-style meals at reasonable prices, but after the two meals we had committed to, we opted to make use of our car and seek out the Japanese food in the nearby town.

Lake Mashu partially fills a huge caldera and from the viewpoint along its rim one can take in the lake and the broad plain that surrounds it. As it is readily reached by road, the spot is a magnet for tour buses and has a bustling tourist shop seasonally featuring Hokkaido produce. We had a delicious slice of melon as we watched the holidaymakers shop for curios.

The modest access fee to the Lake Mashu viewpoint also includes access to Mount Iou, a slightly elevated volcano that last erupted 600 years ago. Dotted by bright yellow fumaroles where sulfurous steam is vigorously spewed, tt is rather stinky and surreal with its surrounding lifeless zone, presumably due to the noxiousness of the fumes.

Going on to Lake Akan, we drove its perimeter which supports a number of onsen (hot spring baths) that are part of small resort hotels. At the south end of the lake we reached a small peninsula with a trail that gave fine views of the lake. At the end of our walk we discovered a rotemburo, or outdoor hotspring bath. Dumping our duds, we steeped ourselves in the steaming water, a welcome salve at the end of our hike.
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Shiretoko National Park, Japan

We flew from Tokyo to Memambetsu in the northeast of Hokkaido, Japan's major northern island. There we rented a comfortable compact Nissan sedan that would lead us on our tour of this part of the island. I say lead because all rental cars here come with a GPS which gives one a great sense of confidence when tooling about. Despite the fact that it speaks and maps in Japanese, we can easily find your way to anywhere that has a phone number or code that appears on a map by following the directional prompts on the screen. When we hear the ever-patient liltingly sweet female voice of the GPS, we know we have to pay attention.

Aside from the adjustment to left side of the road driving, motoring in Hokkaido is a breeze. They seem to have gone out of their way to make it easy for English-speaking drivers. With a network of excellent roads with astonishingly light traffic and gorgeous scenery, this is an excellent place for a driving tour. Our comfortable compact Nissan costs us about $55/day including a drop fee and the very low speed limits here helped kept our fuel cost down to about $0.18/mile.

Our first destination was the Shiretoko Peninsula at the northeastern tip of the island. As the sun fell all too early, we took in the dramatic coastline of cliffs and rock outcroppings in the sea beyond as we made our way to Iwaobetsu Youth Hostel that lies about as far along the peninsula as you can get by road. The hostel has a good bit of rustic charm that is offset by foul odors from the pit toilets that waft about the hostel. More discouraging was the informative hiking orientation given that evening in Japanese. By chance, there was a visitor there that night who was able to do some translation for us, but it sounded like much of the hiking was beyond our stamina and equipment. We settled for the easy, but rewarding short hike around several small lakes.

Cutting short our planned stay in Shiretoko we decided to head to Akan National Park the next morning.
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