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<pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:29:41 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Abu Simbel - Monument rescue on a grand scale! &#x2014; Abu Simbel, Egypt</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:29:41 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>To Egypt and Jordan - escape cold for warmth in Middle East desert</description>
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        <b>Abu Simbel, Egypt</b><br /><br />Quick flight over the High Dam from Aswan past the huge lake.<br>Good thing it&#xB4;s only 30 minutes, big shuttle plane<br>Has extra row of seats by shrinking knee space.<br>Quickly we are in the presence of the huge monument.<br> <br>Ramses II, the great egotist:<br>Temples, statues, hieroglyphs, glorify his stature.<br>Particularly they show his battle prowess<br>(Which were not really that great).<br> <br>Scenes on temple walls try to show his successes:<br>Bop the vanquished on the head,<br>Step on their backs, show enemy smaller,<br>But history books declare his battles a draw!<br> <br>As with Petra, the statues and temples <br>Had been hewn from living rock.<br>The modern challenge to raise them above dam water<br>Was well met, reconstruction looks natural.<br> <br>Now Ramses II looks out on a huge lake<br>Named for Nasser, not Ramses.<br>Ramses 4000 years of greatness is now reduced.<br>Modern Egypt has its own heros.<br />
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    <title>Along the Nile by ship to Aswan &#x2014; Aswan, Egypt</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:26:12 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>To Egypt and Jordan - escape cold for warmth in Middle East desert</description>
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        <b>Aswan, Egypt</b><br /><br />Our small ship, only 32 passengers,<br>Yet with a staff of 50!<br>Constant attention, personal service,<br>But we only get 3 days of this luxury.<br> <br>Gazing at scenery along the shore<br>Drives home the point - <br>Without the Nile to nourish it,<br>Egypt would just be more Sahara.<br> <br>Sometimes greenery extends just a few feet,<br>Even when green goes out for a mile, still<br>Brown, sandy, barren, hills loom on horizon.<br>Only the Nile provides life here.<br> <br>We learned how monastic Christian life started in Egypt:<br>Desert beckoning those escaping crowded, solied, life.<br>St. Simeon&#xB4;s monastery attracted pious basket makers<br>Until Saracens obliterated them for supporting Crusaders.<br> <br>Now the ruins are a destination for our camel trek.<br>Hang on tight as his rump rises, tips me forward.<br>Then grip even tighter as he un-kneels,<br>Did they really need such long legs?<br> <br>Under way, his gait seems more sideways than forward.<br>Hold saddle horn tight, grip camera as we climb a sand dune.<br>Now only wind, dust and fellow OATers around us.<br>An interlude reliving caravan travel thru the sands.<br> <br>Temples along the Nile show us the changing politics of the ancients:<br>With Greeks and Romans in control, they did not just enslave,<br>They encouraged Egyptians to build new temples,<br>Egyptian themes and gods, but Greek / Roman touches.<br> <br>So here are temples "only" 300 BC to 100 AD<br>Still Egyptian: walls of hieroglyphic stories,<br>Hypostyles - rooms with close spaced massive columns<br>Look close, those columns have Corinthian capitals!<br><br>Edfu - one of those temples Macedonians and Greeks<br>Had built to show their respect for Egyptian gods<br>Here it was Horus, the falcon headed god,<br>The falcon was strong, a fearless fighter, how appropriate for Alexander.<br><br>Edfu &#x26; Kom Ombo: well preserved by 1800 years of Nile flood!<br>Never thought of that advantage, how fortunate<br>Thirty feet of Nile mud and sand<br>Sealed walls, columns, color, statues, those long 1800 years<br />
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    <title>Luxor and Karnak &#x2014; Luxor, Egypt</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:17:44 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>To Egypt and Jordan - escape cold for warmth in Middle East desert</description>
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        <b>Luxor, Egypt</b><br /><br />Luxor was Thebes was Weset<br>Names that evoke thoughts of ancients<br>A city built on history,<br>With temples that extend for acres.<br> <br>What can I do to comprehend<br>A city in business for 3000 years?<br>I have trouble imagining back 150 years to be<br>Alongside great-great-grandpa Conrad as he landed in NYC.<br> <br>Here we have Karnak, centerpiece of Johnny Carson&#xB4;s shtick:<br>His turbaned answer / question routine.<br>Karnak&#xB4;s reality is so much more<br>Home of the prime god: Amun-Re.<br> <br>Priests and pharaoh in constant attendance,<br>Ready to take Amun-Re the mile upstream<br>To Luxor Temple, home of Amun-Re&#xB4;s consort, cow headed goddess,<br>Sounds strange, but cows were mark of fertility and plenty.<br> <br>Now Karnak is a huge expanse,<br>A line of sphinx, literally for a mile.<br>Obelisks, some taken to Europe,<br>How did they erect it without a tower crane?<br> <br>Could they really tip it up straight and true?<br>Just sliding it down a huge mound of sand<br>Aim the base of obelisk to stop sliding when,<br>Now upright, it lands squarely on the base they laid down!<br> <br>Our tour guide Dahlia, explained all those details.<br>She kept us together, until -<br>Grace and I went straight along souk (market)<br>When she took everyone out with aright turn.<br> <br>There we were, on a corner,<br>No Westerners in sight, chaos surrounding!<br>Our savior: the tourist policeman assigned to group,<br>Appeared at our side, guided us to our bus.<br />
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    <title>Jarash: a spread of Greek, Roman metropolis &#x2014; Jarash, Jordan</title>
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    <pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:45:08 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>To Egypt and Jordan - escape cold for warmth in Middle East desert</description>
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        <b>Jarash, Jordan</b><br /><br />Jarash: Macedonian, Greek, Roman, city buildings<br>Impressive row on row of columns<br>Laid low by earthquake,<br>Raised again to show the scale of the ancient world.<br> <br>Oval and circular plazas, temple to Zeus,<br>More columns aligned than Washington DC.<br>And yet even more are jumbled in pieces<br>With broken pediments, all along the sides.<br> <br>Having seen cart and chariot tracks<br>Worn in the stones along Cardo Maximus <br>Do I need to see the Apian Way?<br>This, a fitting tribute to Roman influence in the Middle East.<br> <br>Move forward 900 years: Saracens under Saladen<br>Gather strength, counter the Crusades,<br>Build Aljun to isolate, defeat Crusaders.<br>Exacting tolls from caravans to support their huge hilltop castle.<br> <br>Then forward another 900 years to<br>Modern Christian mission, orphanage, school.<br>Our Lady of the Mountain in Gilead<br>Argentine priests and sisters serving all.<br> <br>Those priests and sisters working hard<br>Supporting Christianity, ideals of brotherhood,<br>Reinforcing a small Christian minority,<br>In a region striving in other directions.<br> <br>Jordan, a crossroads for centuries,<br>A panorama of past to present in each day,<br>Suffering in so many ways<br>From the Middle East problems swirling over its borders.<br> <br>Jordan, poor in natural resources,<br>We find it rich in people resources,<br>Preserving, highlighting its rich past,<br>Hoping for a bright future.<br />
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    <title>Petra - a Split in the Rock &#x2014; Petra, Jordan</title>
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    <pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:35:24 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>To Egypt and Jordan - escape cold for warmth in Middle East desert</description>
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        <b>Petra, Jordan</b><br /><br />Petra<br><br>Petra: you can see the postcards,<br>You can read the archaeology books,<br>You can even see Indiana Jones,<br>None prepares you for the wonder of the real thing.<br> <br>Some icons, statues, details may be worn away,<br>The message of the memorial structures still overwhelms,<br>Nabataeans wanted the importance of their leaders to live on,<br>That they certainly achieved.<br> <br>Featureless rock, first colored and streaked by Mother Nature,<br>Then formed and rough shaped by wind and water.<br>Brought to life as monuments and facades by early civilizations,<br>Now a magnet drawing we modern travelers to behold the miracle.<br> <br>Petra spreads for countless acres,<br>Beduoins still live in outlying monuments,<br>Clothes hanging to dry on stelae<br>Crypts used as bathrooms.<br> <br>Those streaked and swirled colors provided by Mother Nature,<br>Represent wind and water ripples formed a billion years ago.<br>How fascinating the Nabataeans could use those patterns so effectively<br>Making cold, hard, stone come alive with vibrant color.<br><br>Illiterate children, fluent in: 10 postcards for a dollar!<br>Camels with tasseled tack, provide us native (?) color<br>Bedouins with the prized registry number for their horse<br>That horse took over when the hike back became oppressive.<br><br>And so: Petra, a poem of the Rose City (thanks Brett)<br>Old sketches by David Roberts,<br>200 photos in my trusty Nikon,<br>More than those, it will be memories we treasure.<br />
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    <title>Amman and the Dead Sea &#x2014; Amman, Jordan</title>
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    <pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:39:38 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>To Egypt and Jordan - escape cold for warmth in Middle East desert</description>
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        <b>Amman, Jordan</b><br /><br />Amman and the Dead Sea<br><br>The Dead Sea, a special place<br>1300 feet below sea level,<br>Now slowly dropping more as<br>Israel, Jordan take more from the Jordan River.<br> <br>So we walk farther down the "beach" to find water,<br>No sand, the gravel whitened by salt crystals.<br>Mud, precious mud, waiting to slather on,<br>It cures every ill they say, can anything so ugly be good?<br> <br>Finally in the Sea, floating up high,<br>We may be deep in the Rift Valley<br>The salt keeps us floating high,<br>Don't swim, don't try to push down, just float.<br> <br>Keep the salt out of my eyes, my mouth;<br>Luckily no cuts or sores to sting,<br>No cracked toes to burn, smear on the mud,<br>Wash it off in clean, fresh water.<br> <br>Amman: minarets on every mosque,<br>Calls to prayer spread over the hills,<br>Sounds of reverence, unfamiliar to our Western ears,<br>Spill across a crowded city with a past.<br> <br>Named for Ammonites, its rulers in 1200 BC.<br>Amman had already been settled in 2000 BC bronze age.<br>Then Greek / Egyptian Ptolemys and Romans added their history.<br>Finally mosque over Byzantine church over Roman temple.<br> <br>A jumble of history, a clutter of past,<br>A nightmare for the archaeologist making neat chronologies.<br>Think of my peaceful Grand Island, with only:<br>500 years native Americans, 200 years US settlers; period.<br />
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    <title>Ready for Egypt and Jordan &#x2014; Buffalo, New York, United States</title>
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    <pubDate>Mon, 25 Feb 2008 19:42:35 -0500</pubDate>
    <description>To Egypt and Jordan - escape cold for warmth in Middle East desert</description>
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        <b>Buffalo, New York, United States</b><br /><br />Egypt - Greeks and Romans wanted to see the pyramids,<br>Then it was part of the Grand Tour in the 19th Century,<br>Can't claim to be a world traveler if we don't get there.<br>Going in March, can we miss the tourists and heat?<br> <br>We are tourists, can't expect no-one else to be there,<br>But at least we can miss the heat.<br>So much to see, beyond the pyramids and Sphinx,<br>Our schedule shows full days, early mornings.<br> <br>We're old enough to remember the Johnny Carson line about Karnak,<br>We know who the Aga Kahn was, and remember<br>The big deal about the Aswan Dam as it flooded temples,<br>Does this get us ready to see <u>really old</u>?<br> <br>Our granddaughters think we are as old as the pyramids,<br>Can we explain what really old means?<br>Now the Alexandria Library is only as old as our age 6 granddaughter,<br>How can we explain about papyrus and scrolls?<br> <br>Jordan - never heard of anything but Petra and Dead Sea,<br>So the Romans were there, as the Romans were everywhere:<br>Pont du Gard, street paving in Cologne, the baths at Bath,<br>And we have never been to Rome!<br> <br>Will the Dead Sea be swim-able?<br>Too salty to drink - don't get it in your eyes!<br>Then Jerusalem had snow last week, don't tell me<br>It may be too cool to enter - we must have pictures 'floating'!<br> <br>How much sand and dust will get in our mouth at Petra?<br>We must see what has been dug out of the sand,<br>Can we imagine what living was like in that sandy valley?<br>Still the pool in the old central garden is full of sand.<br />
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    <title>Candlelight ski and Skijoring &#x2014; Eagle river, Wisconsin, United States</title>
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    <pubDate>Sun, 03 Feb 2008 16:38:03 -0500</pubDate>
    <description>No snow in Buffalo, to Wisconsin for snowshoeing</description>
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        <b>Eagle river, Wisconsin, United States</b><br /><br />Candlelight ski - flickering candles in the cold,<br>Ice chambers, pour out the water after rim freezes,<br>Candles inside make an icy glow, just what we need,<br>To match the icy feel of the tour thru the woods.<br> <br>A mile of candles, a mile of set track, a string of us,<br>Absorbing the surroundings, with its flickering shadows.<br>Magical trees taking shape in the gloom,<br>Setting a mood that glorified the evening.<br> <br>Then a day with sled dogs, talks on their care,<br>Their feeding, lots of feeding, as they run and run.<br>Booties for crusty ice days, harness for pulling,<br>They truly like to pull; it's not work, it's fun.<br> <br>Then came skijoring, a bonding of dog with man,<br>A natural outgrowth of sledding, again they want to pull.<br>A pair of huskies, X harnesses, heavy belt on me,<br>Quick release buckle, but DON'T USE, don't let dogs free!<br> <br>Pole to get us started, then they run,<br>Lots of strength, great teaming, go like the wind.<br>Dogs make the turn, they know the trail,<br>I start to slide, plant my pole hard, trying for control.<br> <br>Plant the pole harder, they pull more,<br>They made the turn, why aren't we flying?<br>What's with the pole, why so bent? <br>I'm on the ground, their challenge: pull harder!<br> <br>No harm done: no bruises, no breaks,<br>Elderhostel promises memorable experiences, <br>That's what I've had.<br>New poles available when we reach Hayward.<br> <br>A final ski, Raven trails in American Legion forest,<br>Three km, then a reading, several more, another reading:<br>From the Earth Speaks, by Steve VanMatre,<br>Passages to start one thinking about nature.<br> <br>To see the fire that warms you, better yet:<br>To cut the wood that feeds the fire that warms you.<br>To quest for wild berries; more satisfying than a gift of tropic fruit.<br>These are the rewards of the simple life.<br> <br> <br>Tree Death: Alone among living things, it retains dignity after death.<br>Even when life has abandoned, it remains a majestic thing.<br>At its final moments, massive trunk prone and moldered, covered with moss,<br>It arrives at a fitting and noble end.<br> <br>And so we arrived at a fitting, but probably not noble, finish.<br>A week of outdoor training and fun,<br>A week of great teachers and companions,<br>A week to appreciate the north woods of Wisconsin.<br />
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    <title>Skiing in the Deep Freeze &#x2014; Eagle river, Wisconsin, United States</title>
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    <pubDate>Thu, 31 Jan 2008 11:40:09 -0500</pubDate>
    <description>No snow in Buffalo, to Wisconsin for snowshoeing</description>
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        <b>Eagle river, Wisconsin, United States</b><br /><br />Skiing in the Deep Freeze<br> <br>What have we gotten into?<br>Yes, we wanted more snow,<br>Did we have to take sub-zero temps,<br>To get the better snow depth?<br> <br>Snow ice cream - a northern treat,<br>First ingredient - a <u>responsible</u> person to collect the snow.<br>Hope he doesn't have lack of yellow sensitivity color blindness,<br>A bit crunchy, but plenty of sugar makes it great.<br> <br>We had plenty of warning, maybe too much,<br>Leaders huddled over Internet, getting forecasts,<br>Worrying us about frostbite, no feeling in our toes,<br>Changing plans: outdoors, No! Indoors - too tame!<br> <br>Its 40 below wind chill; let's have that talk:<br>Skulls, Skins, Skeletons: but not just talk,<br>Look at it: Did the scat contain moose or deer hair?<br>Were wing feather edges fuzzy enough for a silent hawk?<br> <br>After lunch: up to 5 below air temp, 20 below wind chill!<br>Let's get out there, folks: the sun is out, snow sparkling.<br>How many layers do we put on?<br>Two: tough it out? Four: too namby pamby?<br> <br>Out to the Norge Trails, on outskirts of Eagle River,<br>Four miles of crunchy, slow, snow,<br>Luckily the woods cut the wind, but even without wind,<br>The air was still bitter, bitter, cold.<br> <br>Well, we came here for skiing, we must go around,<br>The reward: Satisfaction? Maybe, but really just:<br>Get back in good enough shape to enjoy a glass of wine,<br>That's the real reward: a hot shower and a glass of wine.<br />
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    <title>Eagle River, Trees for Tomorrow, our skiing / snow &#x2014; Eagle river, Wisconsin, United States</title>
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    <pubDate>Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:21:18 -0500</pubDate>
    <description>No snow in Buffalo, to Wisconsin for snowshoeing</description>
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        <b>Eagle river, Wisconsin, United States</b><br /><br />Finally enough snow for skiing / snowshoeing<br><br>Trees for Tomorrow, originally a center for reforesting,<br>Now a teaching center for ecology.<br>Some buildings from CCC era, now updated a bit.<br>Most important - kitchen is fully modern.<br> <br>We are here to both play and learn,<br>Skiing and snowshoeing, nature viewing, ID of trees,<br>Will the play outwit the learn?<br>They seem to have a reasonable plan for us.<br> <br>Cross country ski lessons: why do I need that?<br>I've skied for almost thirty years!<br>Flex your ankles, bend your knees, keep the poles back,<br>I probably heard that before, but now maybe I will heed.<br> <br>A wilderness evidently is different if it has a capital W,<br>No motors, no privies, not even blazes on any trail,<br>Virgin trees, never an ax, never a saw,<br>It does have one feature - not a sound beyond the wind.<br> <br>Skiied in the Nicolet Forest, the Anvil trail<br>Just a few miles from Eagle River, but away from the sleds.<br>Gentle hills, try not to snow plow,<br>Should just step around the curves (sure - ha).<br> <br>Chickadees, nuthatches, patiently wait for us.<br>They worried where their next meal was coming from,<br>Now we are there, scoop sunflower seeds into hand<br>Hold it out, they land on my fingers, sort for best seed.<br> <br>Should we encourage such freeloading?<br>They are not really nature's creatures any more.<br>Wisconsin 'badgers' have been feeding them for 50 years,<br>If we don't hold out hands full of seeds, they will starve!<br />
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