TravelStream™ news feed for member gleckelgirls on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/gleckelgirls en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Mon, 24 Mar 2008 16:57:15 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1137002400/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1137002400/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1137002400/tpod.html Mon, 24 Mar 2008 16:57:15 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Wellington, New Zealand

M: Here are some of my favorite random things from NZ:
sheep (obviously, although, especially the black face-black legs variety (mask and boots))
hokey pokey
people being barefoot EVERYWHERE
train crossing street signs
kumara (and kumara chips and kumara salad)
"How you going?" (as a greeting in almost any situation)
"It's ok/alright." (as a response to "thank you")

J: I loved NZ, I had so many favorite things, I am not even sure where to start...but I will try with:
Di (my friend in Wellington)
Penguins (especially randomly on the beach)
Dolphins
Pretty much all the yummy treats we tried, but i really do like pies quite a bit
"Sweet as" or "sweet ass", which is really how it sounds if you don't speak with a kiwi accent - this is an expression of agreement. For example, if we were at the pub a conversation might go as follows: Person 1: "I'll get the first round." Person 2: "Sweet as." Or if you meet a really wasted kiwi in the pub after The Cricket (a cricket game) he may just offer up drinks on him because he had just won about $1,000 from the slot machine (although they have a different name for slot machine too).
"Scroggin" - yep, you read that right...scroggin, the kiwi word for "trail mix". Don't ask just incorporate into your daily vocab as much as possible and enjoy.
"When Frosty" street signs - these are like our slippery when wet street signs, but theirs say "frosty" and I love that.
There were also penguin crossing signs that I loved and pictures of wind socks for when areas are particularly windy (although according to our kiwi guide, Di, this means there is a airplane landing strip nearby).
But really there were just so many great things about New Zealand and the lingo and the food, it was hard to leave.

but alas, we gleckel on...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1150498800/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1150498800/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1150498800/tpod.html Sat, 12 Aug 2006 18:10:27 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Seattle, WA, United States

M: As we flew back into Seattle, I kept whining, it's over. We're all finished. The green of spring here rose up to meet us and I thought, it's back to real life, back to everything we left behind. But so much has changed. Seattle is different. The little bits of day-to-day living that none of us think of as being all that much different from one moment to the next make a difference. It's like being a visitor all over again only weirder because I supposedly live here.

In the scheme of things, 6 months is a short time. But so much has changed here. Friends and family have gotten married, moved, had children, changed jobs, gotten sick and then well, bought houses, had large professional successes, experienced major life events. So, it feels like we've been gone forever. But as we start to review photos and the stories about our trip begin to trickle out, it feels like the time we spent in each place was so small, so short and precious. The strange pull of opposition of those two sentiments is part of the re-entry process.

It's funny what travel does and what it teaches. For me, I find there are moments that are changed. I've learned that cicadas make deafening amounts of noise and that squat toilets aren't as gross as port-a-potties (J: and you found that out more quickly than you had planned, no, Miss?). That people around the world will shock you with their generosity (even your close friends) and that learning a word or two in another language can make a huge difference. I've learned that I prefer train to bus and really spicy food is delicious.

I've learned that Jessie is a natural on the surfboard and with little Indian children and that she possesses a unique ability to engage with people with whom she might not share a common language. Her insights on women's issues and the questions of justice and freedom are invaluable. She accepts differences in cultural norms, but refuses to be anyone other than Jessie. Ever. She never makes apologies for who she is or what she believes; never stops the quest for a world where equality and justice mean more than anything else. People were drawn to Jessie throughout the trip and why not? She's absolutely hilarious, tremendous amounts of fun, up for any adventure and she has that curly hair that astounded so many.

I've relearned that travel is hard because it brings out the most stressful situations and both the best and worst of people. Not to mention it's exhausting, but I can't imagine a better way to understand the world in which we live. Nor would I hesitate to do it again (although, I would recommend looking closely at the weather before embarking on any trips), especially if I could go with Jessie.

J: So things we've learned, huh? Where to begin...reminders of privilege I think will always spring up as long as I spend time out of the immediate comforts of my life, and I hope they do. From simple things like toilet paper in bathrooms to friends and family who love us unconditionally, clean drinking water and grass to run barefoot through (M: Ooh, yeah, clean places for naked feet) to being able to take the time and save the money to take a trip as amazing as this one. There were times when six months seemed like forever and then times when I couldn't believe another week had already passed us by.

I learned a lot about my own tolerance and patience (stop laughing, Mom) as well as Missy's. I envy her lack of inhibition -- her ability to pick up at any given moment and move forward, whether nervous or shy or embarrassed, I didn't see it. She is always eager to ask questions and inquire about the unknown. Her insightfulness and thirst for knowledge became ever more clear as we traveled to places I thought neither of us knew much about. I tend to forget that Missy has an International Relations degree and retains more information about history and politics than I ever will. She was often able to shed light on subjects that I knew nothing about. It is quite astounding, actually.

And then there was Missy's energy. How is it that it never waned? I never realized how much of Mom's "vacation" blood really flowed through her. If you've ever experienced vacation with our mom then you have a full understanding of the concept of needing a vacation after your vacation. She really knows how to pack in the activity. And I think maybe, just maybe Missy took it to a whole new level. Just kidding. What I mean to say is that Missy truly took advantage of our time away. Through the impossible heat and rainy days I could probably count the number of "down" days that we had on both hands. As exhausting as it sometimes felt I am overly grateful for how much Missy pushed us (even though I may have expressed otherwise at the time) to see as much as we could physically handle and fit into a day. And I am happy to say that I will never look back on this trip and play the "I wish we had..." game of regrets.

So would I do anything different if I had it to do over? Nope, not unless I could have controlled the weather. Would I do it again? I would definitely travel with Missy again. Would I spend another six months bouncing around nine countries? Not likely. But really this is because I would rather have the opportunity to spend more time in places getting a greater glimpse of the people, their country, and their culture. I would like to spend time volunteering (M: I couldn't agree with this more) in some of the countries we visited, but to do so requires more than a few days in one location. Instead we were tourists/travelers and I have no regrets.

Now we move into the next phase of life...pursuing graduate/professional degrees. I kept thinking all trip how intriguing I find it that our professional interests have gone from being completely unrelated to slowly morphing into something quite similar (M: Who ever would have guessed that?!). We are both concerned about health, globally, although different realms of the field. How we want to be involved is different and ever evolving. Our time away sparked various conversations on the state of health, health care, and practice around the world and for me just peaked my interests more. Until classes begin, I plan on enjoying as much of the beautiful Seattle summer as I possibly can. And if any of you find yourselves out our way, there is an empty futon and two sisters who would be more than happy to show you our city.

M: Thank you a million for being supportive of this trip. From e-mails to reading the blog to encouragement before we left. Coming back to our friends and family was the easiest part of the end. And now, we gleckel on to grad school...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147904640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147904640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147904640/tpod.html Mon, 24 Jul 2006 19:22:28 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Delhi, India

J: Our last favorite and not so favorite things list. India is for sure a country of extremes. There is no way we will remember all of the things we loved as there were just so many and of course we wouldn't be human without some things that we did not love quite so much. An overall love of India, the people, and the culture has determined this just the first of many trips I hope to take to India, provided I have (and create) the means and opportunities to return. Until the next time, this will be a recap of what we absorbed/consumed/experienced during the month we had in northern India.

Loved:
- Indian children - so cute!
- Food (obviously), but especially some of the new things we tried, like Samosa Chaat, Puri, Parantha, Dosas (seriously how could we have missed out on all these yummy treats for so many years?)
- The colors of India - pink buildings, white cows, red/green/white/yellow/blue prayer flags.
- Indian clothes - salwar kameez and saris and the materials used to make them are all so gorgeous
- Bangles - enough said.
- Bollywood - honestly, best movies ever.
- Yoga in Rishikesh - Pankaj is a fantastic teacher.
- Little kids in their school uniforms.
- Tibetan MITs (Monks in Training)
- Monestaries, prayer wheels, sand mandalas, and prayer flags
- Indian people's love for their culture and their desire to share it with foreigners.
- The peace and quiet of the mountain areas of Darjeeling, Sikkim, and Dharmsala
- Momos (especially when they are on the street 5 for less than $.50) - Tibetan dumplings
- Singing bowls
- The amazing views of the mountains we had in Darjeeling, Sikkim, and Dharmsala.
- How a head bobble really can mean anything (yes, no, I don't care, I don't understand, sure)
- How open people are to interacting with other people's children.
- The Kaul Family who we stayed with in Delhi.

Not so much in love with:
- The heat.
- The throat clearing/spitting.
- The train smell and how it lingers on everything that was on the train (for months to come).
- When cows out number people on the street.
- The poverty.
- Seeing little kids growing up on the street and knowing their lives are harder than we can imagine.
- The fear of severe gastro-intestinal distress.
- The need for hyper altertness about baggage.
- Leaving

But at least we gleckel on to our Eri and drinkable tap water...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1149377220/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1149377220/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1149377220/tpod.html Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:20:25 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Ogunquit, ME, United States

M: This was the first time in many months that we have gone separate ways. I went to NY to visit my friends Lisa and Ken and their 2 month-old twins (who I'm totally in love with) and spend some time with a friend from the last time I was abroad, Brian. I was also lucky enough to see Tom and to take a quick walk with Sebastian (two times in 6 months!). Basically, I liked NY better on this trip than perhaps ever before. I had gorgeous weather and got to spend some quality, relaxed time with good friends. Plus, there were babies. Really sweet, adorable babies.

J: I unfortunately had no babies in my days away from Missy. Instead I had kitties. I kitty-sat for the newlyweds, spent some QT with my Gram and a couple of my closest friends -- Katie and Michael from high school. It was a good reminder of how much I love Boston and definitely a great opportunity to spend time with some of those people I rarely see and miss so much when I am on the west coast.

M: Jessie picked me up in the bus station and we went to pick our grandmother up for a family weekend in Ogunquit, ME. Gram turns 80 this year and has a lot to celebrate in her life. So, Jessie, Mom, Dad, our Aunt Faye, Uncle Warren, cousin Matt, Gram and I braved the less-than-ideal weather and enjoyed some of the best parts of Maine - the lobster, the little shops and the chance to celebrate Gram's birthday with everyone being in the same place. (J: How about the Yummies shopping spree -- we all loved that stop, didn't we, Dad?!)

It's pretty amazing that time has not slowed at all since we returned to the States. If anything, it has sped up. It's hard to believe that we left Delhi almost 3 weeks ago and that we'll be home so soon. For now, in Massachusetts, we gleckel on...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1150420680/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1150420680/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1150420680/tpod.html Tue, 27 Jun 2006 13:19:14 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Ashby, MA, United States

M: Being in MA has been a lot of fun. Aside from the less than ideal weather, which seems to be a theme for this trip. We have both had the chance to see friends, hike with Mom, spend some quality time with our extended family, have family dinner with our alternative family, enjoy the gorgeous flowers that Mom and Dad grow and really spend some time with our parents. We've cooked together, run errands, gone to see some fun live music, it's been really wonderful. And I always find it fun to be in Ashby. It's so quiet and calm, beautiful with its New England charm. It is perhaps the ideal place to start the process of re-entry.

J: I completely concur. Ashby is removed from the hustle and bustle of city life and although at times I have thought of that as an inconvenience, I have been overly grateful for its geographically removed location since we have been back. Deer and other wildlife run through our parents' back yard and the wild roses are in bloom (making it Mom's favorite back yard time of year) and the grass is soft and inviting (if it weren't for all the rain they've had). On the few sunny days the walks around town were peaceful and nostalgic, and the rainy days gave time for hanging out and getting to spend relaxed time together. Although I cannot see Ashby as a place where I would really want to live again, I love that it is somewhere to visit and vacation to and that it continues to provide for me that feeling of "home" -- but that could just be the people (Mom and Dad, thank you for a wonderful Ashby visit and homecoming). We sadly depart from Ashby and gleckel on to Seattle -- home.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1133734740/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1133734740/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1133734740/tpod.html Fri, 09 Jun 2006 17:23:54 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Seattle, United States

M: The mass chaos of our house has been disguised into boxes in our basement. Our friends have made their final stops at our house to babysit our computer, CDs, etc. Our backpacks are full and we've said our goodbyes. The beginning of winter in Seattle and we're about to board a plane for summer. Lots of summer (J: We'll be back in time for Seattle summer, what could be better?!). Nervous, excited, no idea what to expect! Ready for an adventure, ready to follow the road where it leads. Ready to start gleckeling...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1148289660/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1148289660/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1148289660/tpod.html Wed, 07 Jun 2006 12:00:12 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Glasgow, United Kingdom

M: When we told people we were stopping through Glasgow on our way to our parents' house it seemed really incongruous with the rest of our trip. However, our Erica lives in Glasgow. So, of course we wanted to see her! Erica was our roommate for two years in Seattle (J: And a good university friend of mine.) and we have lots of fun memories with her, but we were SO excited to have this opportunity to create new memories in her new fun country. Of course, she has been a commentator on this blog from the get-go. Here she is to comment directly:

E: I DID IT! I GLECKEL-ED! And I survived ... barely. All I can do is reiterate and exclaim how joining jessie and missy really was the greatest trip to have. Though only for five days, three of which i still had to work through and at least two just to catch up on lost time, it was one of the most fun and exciting adventures I have been on. I will have to let them use their storytelling skills to give the trip justice, but it was pure quality and fun. I tried to show them both a small taste of Glasgow (in food and atmosphere), but inevitably the trip was all about us and our own world that is so fun be a part. i don't know how Evie ever was able to walk away in Thailand, and I did my part to make them stay with me forever (sorry Pammy and family, but it is true).

All I can say to the rest of the followers of the adventure called gleckeling ... you must try it as they continue to go all over the world and back (can you believe they have so much more to see!). The stories are great and the photos are sensational. I hope you enjoy it as much as I ever will.

M: Ah, our little Eri. She is the absolute best. Anyway, we got to Glasgow realizing that we had been separated from our camera again. Plus, we hadn't slept much on the trip from Delhi to London and London to Glasgow and Jessie's bag was covered in some kind of alcohol. (J: So gross and smelly. You know, I thought it was all quite smelly from India, but it smelled additionally bad after the alcohol coverage.) But as soon as we saw Eri, it was all ok. We all talked, stumbling over each other's words and telling story after story trying to catch up. Jessie and I kept marveling over things like drinking the tap water and the lack of trash on the street. We walked around Erica's neighborhood and had lunch. Erica had to scoot back to work for a bit and Jessie and I had aspirations of exploring a little more. Instead, we fell asleep in Erica's comfortable apartment. Eri cooked us a delicious dinner of vegetarian haggis and salad (raw veggies!!!) and we talked for hours more. (J: We did feel quite bad about being so lame and tired. But really a night in having salad and a typical Scottish meal was a perfect entry into Glasgow and a perfect way to have some QT with our Eri.)

Jess and I had a slow start to our second day. But we eventually made it out and walked around Glasgow. A really adorable little city, Glasgow reminded us a bit of Seattle. Much colder and grayer than any place we had been in months, it was a welcome change. We got to walk around all day and weren't dripping with sweat. Lovely. We ended our walk at the Gallery of Modern Art, which was filled with some fun and nutty creations. Erica met us there and the three of us went to several of Glasgow's bars having snacks and beverages before we went to a show. Erica had picked out a venue that she loved and really wanted us to see. It's a great little venue. Tiny and intimate and the bands that were playing were excellent. The perfect thing to take us to. (J: How well does Erica know us?!)

On Saturday, the three of us stayed in our pjs almost all day, chatting, telling stories, catching up. It was wonderful! Finally, we got dressed and went out to meet some of Erica's excellent friends for a drink. They clearly love her a great deal (with good reason) and were warm and engaging with us. We went out for a delicious dinner at one of Erica's favorite restaurants and then had some tea at a cafe that Erica's firm had designed. A wonderful evening out.

The next morning, the two former architecture students organized our trip out to see Hill House, a creation of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. We took the train out of the city to an estuary of the River Clyde, walked around enjoying the sun, had fish and chips (not as good as the ones in New Zealand) and went to Hill House. Going to these places with Erica and Jessie is fun because they reminisce about school and comment on things I wouldn't notice. (J: Will comment on all below.) The house is really beautiful and has some incredibly interesting fixtures. On top of which, the gardens are really lovely, except the one really overgrown part that looks like a dying jungle. It was a wonderful day in the countryside followed by watching a movie together at Erica's. Perfect bonding day.

Our last day we went on a tour of the Glasgow School of Art, another building designed by Mackintosh. I can see why it would be an excellent place to be a student. (J: I kept thinking about that. How weird it would be to be a student in such a famous building and having people touring through your school every day. Crazy.) The details alone... Maybe Jess should comment on this. (J: It was kind of surreal being inside a Mackintosh building. I mean I guess this happens each time I enter into a place where I have only ever seen slides. But the thing about Mackintosh in particular is that there is so much incredible detail in his work that the slides never do his work justice. So being inside a building of his where you can walk up and see and touch the stained glass or small mosaics is totally unreal. The outsides of his buildings are kind of unassuming and fit almost too well into the gray of Glasgow on a gloomy day, but once inside they brighten up completely and around every corner there is a touch of color to remind you of the natural beauty that exists in gardens. Amazing!) We had lunch with Erica and had a sad farewell. Erica is such a great friend and we really miss her being around all of the time in Seattle. She's so generous and fun and we both feel very lucky to have someone as special as her in our lives. We love her, she's the best. (J: Ditto. It was a perfect close to the traveling around part of our trip. Erica is an amazing friend - warm, caring, giving, everything you could want in a friend that will forever be part of your life.)

It's very odd to think about the next flight landing in the US. And how fast time has seemed to go, especially lately. (J: It keeps coming up, but really it is quite bittersweet. There are so many things to look forward to upon our return, but I already really miss pieces of Asia, especially India right now.) But there are adventures to be had on the East Coast, so we gleckel on...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1149011280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1149011280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1149011280/tpod.html Wed, 07 Jun 2006 11:52:35 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Cape Cod, United States

M: Re-entry is a little weird. Suddenly, we're driving (or riding) on the right side of the road, walking a lot less, speaking English with people whose accents aren't hard to understand (but we are in MA, so they still exist [J: plus everyone understands us so we have to be on our best behavior - hee hee]). It's clean, there are grocery stores and lots of greenery. We're surrounded by people we love and have known our whole lives and the undercurrent of a wedding. Pammy, the youngest of 6 kids between the three families we have grown up with, is getting married and we're bridesmaids.

J: It is strange going from walking around the streets of Delhi (hot and sweaty), trying to decide what to see when and what markets to explore to driving from hair cut to dress fitting. Those first few days back are now kind of a blur. But I do have to say that the weather has been such a relief.

M: Our first weekend back in the US was spent on glorious Cape Cod, one of our favorite places in the whole world. We lucked out with mostly gorgeous weather, especially on the actual day of the wedding. And we got to spend quality time with our extended family: the Koretzs and Berensons. It's pretty rare for all six kids to be in the same place at the same time, so it was really special to be able to come home to them. Plus, the six is growing to include a spouse (after this wedding) and a very significant other, so it's really, very fun to be together.

There were lots of insane festivities - barbecue, beautification processes, wedding rehearsal and dinner (with delicious lobster - we LOVE lobster!!!), pictures, the wedding itself and the reception after. It was really a gorgeous wedding with the bride and groom saying their own heartfelt, extremely touching vows and clearly love abound. In any case, it was an amazing opportunity for togetherness. (J: For me these are the happy/sad parts of coming back to Massachusetts. It is so great seeing all these people who are so important to me, but sad because the together time is fleeting and it is a reminder of the fact that Seattle, in all its glory, is just so far away.) At the end of the weekend, Jessie and I parted ways to spend the first night in different places since the very beginning of January. So, for now, we separately gleckel on...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147694580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147694580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147694580/tpod.html Wed, 07 Jun 2006 10:45:28 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Delhi, India

J: Oh, Delhi! We arrived in Delhi on an overnight train. We have been extremely lucky with our train rides through India, making it easily my preferred mode of transport around the country. During this particular ride we met two really cute small friends and their families. One of the things I have noticed and loved about the trains in India is how full they are of friends and families traveling together. Missy and I were talking about how fun, yet hectic, it would have been if we had traveled via train with our family and friends. We decided that other passengers probably would have hated us loud and giggly kids (there are 6 of us who grew up together, going on vacations), but I personally loved it in India. Then there are the vendors on the trains. They make their way through the cars selling their products and yelling out like a professional sporting event: chai, coffee, frooti (mango juice drink), various Indian snacks. They are a bit of a mystery to me, though. I mean where do they come from? And what happens when we get to our destination and they are now far from their homes? Do they simply refuel and jump on another train?

Anyway, we arrived in Delhi and were relieved to find it pleasantly cool outside. We had pretty much been dreading our arrival into what had reportedly been 46 degree C (about 114 F) heat the week before. So, okay it was only 6:30 AM when our train got in, but still it was exciting that we weren't yet sweating. Lucky for us the heat wave broke the night we were on the train with a huge storm. Serious good fortune, I tell you. Now, I need to take a quick moment to back up. About a week after we arrived in India I had sent an e-mail to a friend/co-worker of mine in DC asking if she had any suggestions for northern India from any of the time she had spent there. She e-mailed back right away and put me in touch with a friend of hers who had lived and worked in Delhi for a while and married a guy from there (THANK YOU, Rani!). Although they are now living in DC the couple quickly offered up his family in Delhi to host us and help us around Delhi (M: She also give us a list of places to go, things to buy, what to avoid and, most importantly, locations with AC. Her e-mail was our bible for the whole time we were in Delhi!). We are still floored by how kind and trusting and generous this offer was -- taking in two complete strangers, opening up their lives and their home to us.

Back to the story at hand...we hopped in an autorickshaw (aka tuk tuk) and motored off to meet our hosts. We arrived to tea and snacks and a wonderfully warm and welcoming family. Although I will try throughout this entry, words will never adequately describe how amazing this family was to us.

Our first day in Delhi we ate delicious food at home (basically it was like being with our Gram, constantly fed and unable to say no to all the incredible food) and then went out shopping with our adopted Indian mom. She was unbelievably patient with us as we looked through kurtas (long Indian shirts) and fabric to have a salwar kameez made for our mom back home. We also spent some QT playing with the small friends (M: The 2 year old is an absolutely gorgeous little girl who spoke to us entirely in Hindi. The 6 year old is a hysterical little boy whose English is absolutely incredible. They're wonderful kids!) at home. One of the greatest things about staying with this family was experiencing the common tradition of Indian family living in many ways. But the one in particular that stood out for me was how three generations commonly live together. It is common for a son's family to live with his parents, as was the case with this family. Therefore we got to spend time with all three generations -- so much fun. (M: It also gave this unique family the opportunity for the grandparents to spend extra time with the kids as both of their parents work. This is beneficial for everyone involved.)

On our second day in Delhi we decided to see as much as we could. So we hired a taxi (with help from our Indian dad) and scooted all over the city (thank you, Jenika, for all of your fantastic suggestions) stopping to see Bahai Temple, Humayan's Tomb, the Old Fort, Jama Masjid mosque, Janpath Market, lunch in Connaught Place, and shopping at Dilli Haat market. Hey, we have had a lot of practice at fitting a whole lot into a short amount of time. I think my favorite sight was Humayan's Tomb (M: Mine too). It is a beautiful building with gorgeous grounds around it. The area is incredibly peaceful and on that particular day it was breezy and delightful. Apparently the Taj Mahal (which, yes, we skipped on this trip to India) was based on the design of Humayan's Tomb. The Bahai Temple was really beautiful as well, but personally it seemed just slightly to reminiscent of a certain opera house in a certain Aussie city (M: Totally! Although the "lotus blossom" design is fairly obvious). But the space inside the temple is gorgeous and serene just as was intended. Overall the day was great - sightseeing, a bit of shopping, topped at the end with a wonderful dinner at home with the family.

Before I move on to our third and final day in Delhi I want to just comment a bit on some of the Delhi challenges. Besides the heat which plagues this city and the people during this time of year (forcing those who can afford it and have access to it, inside), there are countless impoverished Indians on the streets of Delhi. We were warned about the begging in Kolkata and some in Delhi as well, but from the time we spent in both cities, I felt the poverty in Delhi more than Kolkata. Along the streets there are small tent cities (ripped tarps held up by sticks and rope) and countless small children and adults sitting along the streets or wandering around. Sometimes they are just watching and other times they are amidst the traffic approaching cars and rickshaws and passersby with their hands outstretched looking for anything you will give them. There are crippled, handicapped, and maimed individuals pulling themselves along the filthy, hot ground or dragging themselves by a make-shift crutch. There are small children holding even smaller children gesturing and miming their hunger and desperate need for nourishment. And rarely, children approach, selling flowers and newspapers. I found it utterly impossible to feel desensitized by all of this. It never got old or just routine to me. Each day's beggars and clear signs of poverty were constant reminders of our privilege and the fact that seeing all of this was just temporary, that we were able to escape from that reality -- not our reality, their reality. It was an overwhelming feeling of not only privilege, but otherness and all that seems unjust in the world. How is it that we are able to hop on a plane and leave all this behind like a bad dream when this filth and poverty is what some people are not only born into, but will die in as well? Experiencing this quickly puts life into perspective -- the things we take for granted, the things that seem like life crisis, the fights that seem worth fighting, the concerns that really are quite nominal. And the idea of giving thanks or reflecting on what I have and what I can really do without in this life has come much more clearly into focus. (M: J, that was perfectly written - exactly. The notions of what we spend money on and what we can afford were really thrown into sharp relief when riding through Delhi. I don't think I can add anything to what Jess said, that was it exactly.)

Our last day in Delhi was a bit of an errand day, running around buying last minute gifts and spices and seeing one more Delhi sight -- Qatab Minar, a gorgeous tower of red sandstone and marble. Saying good-bye to our adopted family was really hard. How really do you thank people who have given you a home, not knowing you at all, and asking for nothing at all in return? I cannot think of a time in my life when I have personally experienced such selfless generosity. And for this I think we will both be forever grateful. (M: I certainly think that the kindness we have been shown by strangers has changed me. Not only in their generosity of spirit, but in their hospitality. I think we've both seen how giving people can be and we've vowed that we want to be able to give back, not just to the people who've helped us, but to others who've crossed their paths. It feels like such an important life lesson to have learned and I can't wait for the opportunity to employ it.) Leaving Delhi and India is bittersweet, but knowing that Erica and Glasgow are what we are leaving for makes it quite a bit sweeter as we gleckel on.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147629600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147629600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/gleckelgirls/gleckeling05-06/1147629600/tpod.html Wed, 07 Jun 2006 10:05:00 -0400 The road leads where it's led: the six-month escapade of two sisters

Jump to the full
entry & travel map

Mcleod Ganj, India

M: The trip to Mcleod Ganj could have been a lot worse. The train left directly from Rishikesh, stopped in Haridwar, where our extremely helpful friend Mintoo had someone bring us food on the train, and continued on to a place called Chakki Bank. Unfortunately, Chakki Bank is still around 3 hours by jeep from Mcleod Ganj and our train arrived in the middle of the night. Luckily, we met two very hilarious Israelis in the train and they kept us entertained with photos and stories late into the night, as well as including us when they organized their jeep ride up to the little town.

McLeod Ganj is an extremely interesting community. This is the home to the Tibetan government in exile, including the Dalai Lama. Prayer flags color the hillside with blue, white, yellow, red and more women are wearing Western clothes or traditional Tibetan garb than sarees. The air feels cleaner, the mountain views are spectacular and pretty much every class option you can imagine is available. (J: She isn't kidding. You can take classes in anything from yoga to meditation to cooking to batik making to music lessons to jewelry making. There isn't enough time to even begin to do it all.) People are friendly and speak excellent English and the comfortable, mellow atmosphere is extremely appealing. After Rishikesh, it was the perfect antidote.

Our first day, we were walking around the little town when we met two Indian men. We, of course, had tea and then went to see the sacred Dal Lake. While the lake itself looks manmade, dirty and like a place we used to feed fish as little kids, the views around it are gorgeous. The Himalayas had snowfall the night before we arrived and were looking particularly gorgeous in the bright sun. After our lake excursion, we returned to McLeod Ganj to take part one of a Tibetan cooking class. The first night was momo making. Momos are DELICOUS dumplings that come with several very complicated folding patterns. I was not good at it. Jessie was fantastic at it. (J: Not true at all, but I do think I enjoyed it more. It is like Tibetan food origami. So much fun.) The momos (even my funny-looking ones) were delicious.

The next day we walked up to the ridge above the town and looked out on two valleys - stunning. The second part of our cooking class was Tibetan bread making. A bit less tricky, but still utterly delicious. We took some time to really explore the little town with its many shops, Tibetan bookstores and agencies working to support the refugee community. Our third day, we went to the Tsuglagkhang Complex, which houses the Dalai Lama's house and two temples that are equal in importance to the most important Buddhist enclaves in Lhasa that have been abandoned due to the Chinese rule there. When we walked up to the Kalachakra Temple, about 40 monks were inside praying. The sound of their chanting was absolutely gorgeous, calming, spiritual, heart-warming...I loved it. (J: Me too. It sounds exactly like you would expect it to. And we pretty much couldn't get enough of it. Also as we walked around the complex, the monks and nuns were out in full force debating. Apparently this is a daily activity for them, where they get extremely animated talking loudly, stamping their feet, and clapping their hands to help them make their points more strongly. We learned that at the end of the debate, whoever loses has to take on the view of the other monk/nun. It was so interesting to watch as sometimes passersby and other monks and nuns get involved, crowding around the debating pair. So interesting.) We stopped at the cafe that is also part of the complex where refugee Tibetan youth are trained on job skills. (J: Too bad we had eaten a big lunch and weren't hungry because it smelled amazing inside. We did make room for a yummy chocolaty treat, though.) We ended the day learning to make Tibetan soup. Apparently, Tibetans don't use measuring devices, relying on handfuls, pinches, etc. Our teacher, who had crossed from Tibet to Nepal to India by foot as a 14 year old and hasn't seen or communicated with his family in the past 15 years, was wonderful about helping with measurements and substitutions. Plus, he was just really sweet. (J: It's true. We love Lhamo, he is so too cute. He has all these really cute English-isms.) We ended the day watching a not very good documentary about the Penchan Lama and China. It is incredible the amounts of cruelty and blatant human rights violations that exist in the world.

I had started having a bit of a cold while we were on the train. By the fourth day in McLeod Ganj, it was finally starting to wind down. However, I thought that my symptoms gave the perfect excuse to see a doctor at the Tibetan Medical and Astro Institute (Men-Tsee-Kang). The woman who saw me asked about my basic symptoms and then took my pulse for around 2 minutes. After that she asked if I was also having several other symptoms and then prescribed herbal supplements to be taken 3 times a day. The whole thing (seeing her and buying the supplements) cost less than $3 and after taking the supplements for 24 hours, I felt remarkably better. We stopped into the museum that is on the institute's campus and I decided that I really want to come back to learn from this highly regarded school. (J: Hmmm, Missy is forgetting to tell about how horrible the herbs tasted and how much she hated drinking them dissolved in the hot water.)

We stopped into a small museum at the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives and met this very interesting woman on our way back up the hill. An American, she has dedicated her life in retirement to volunteering for the Tibetan cause. She took us back to the Kalachakra Temple to see the sand mandala that had been constructed there. A picture of the universe, the sand mandala is an incredible symmetry of colors and patterns that takes 10 days to complete and is systematically destroyed after a few weeks to demonstrate the impermanence of everything. Completely unbelievable. The day ended with us volunteering for one of the organizations that helps refugees learn English. This was a fun experience because it gave us a chance to talk to mostly monks about a wide variety of topics from music to what is most important to us in life. (J: My experience was hilarious. I had four monks in my group. They were probably all in their late 20s. And the conversation was all over the place. But one of the things they were really interested in knowing about me was whether or not I believed in reincarnation. It was a fascinating conversation to say the least.)

Rising early the next morning, we walked a path that circumvents the Tsuglagkhang Complex. The walk has important religious significance and there are several spots along the way that have beautifully decorated stones and a small temple with a large group praying. There was a geriatric home along the path and many older Tibetans assisted by walkers and friends were out making the early morning pilgrimage. We met up with a woman we had been spending some time with, Angie, and went to the Norbulingka Institute. (J: Quick about Angie - love her. She is from CA, but has been living in Taiwan for the past five years. She is a great person and was so much fun to spend time with while we were in MG.) The beautiful, sunny, quiet campus is an educational facility to teach students traditional Tibetan arts. There is also a doll museum with gorgeous scenes depicting life in Tibet. From the Institute, we went on to see the Karmapa, the spiritual head of the Karma Kagyu tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, give a public address. I can't believe the way a whole country can be separated from its traditions and have to rebuild them in another country, but that is exactly what has happened.

Our last morning, we got up early and walked down a steep hill to the Dip Tse-Chok Ling Gompa. When we arrived, the monks were having breakfast and we were invited into the temple and served butter tea (which we tried, but honestly is gross). We stayed for about an hour watching the monks pray. This group of monks had a real age range with the youngest probably around 8 or 9. As a result, the monk who was clearly in charge spent a good deal of time walking amongst the other monks, checking to make sure they were on the right page, had the right stacks in front of them, etc. It was great. We were really sad to leave McLeod Ganj and, dreading the Delhi heat, wished for more time to stay in the cool beauty of the mountains. But with our flight out of Delhi looming, we gleckel on...
]]>