TravelStream™ news feed for member foegoer on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/foegoer en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:23:18 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1258149954/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1258149954/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1258149954/tpod.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:23:18 -0500 Overland to India...the long(er) way round

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Amritsar, Punjab, India

After 6 days in China, it's time to climb the mountains to conquer the highest paved mountain pass in the world: The Khunjerab Pass, to cross into Pakistan. Highest point at 4675m (depending on which map you have, all claiming different altitudes…). The amazing moment did bypass me a bit as we drove through a Chinese gate entering Pakistan quite suddenly a few km after the last Chinese checkpoint. Only to realize later that this also must have been the highest point. No sign mentioning any of it. Missed tourist opportunity ;-))So here we are in Pakistan, the country that so many people fear for at the moment, mostly because of all the negative media attention. Parents who will sleep worse, friends who think we are mad to drive through this country at all!No Pakistani border check-point in sight for the first 87km (the official part will take place in Sust). We are driving on the famous Karakorum Highway (KKH)! And Frits is going strong…fuming a bit of black smoke, but going uphill easy peasy. I am very proud and happy about this. See…this LDV is not a bad car at all ;-))The KKH is a High (altitude) Way, but unlike the name it has no resemblance to a highway as we know it! The road has been build between 1963 -1978, and is now again under construction by China. It is more like holes with a bit of road…and the further we go the worse it gets! Now it is not the altitude but the crazy holes-avoiding-driving that makes me fear for Frits! I will never again complain about Kazakhstan roads, they are amazing compared to this ;-))We cross a few police check points at which we are kindly offered the national drink: Pakistani milk tea (black tea with a lot of milk and sugar!). No time to linger, so we continue. The road finds its way through the mountains, following a river, like a little back road into a hidden valley. Everywhere we look the mountains seem to look higher and higher, the light reflecting a palette of gold, red and brown; very difficult to capture on photo.Then we are at Sust, a boring little place, where we have to fill out a health form, get the official Pakistan entry stamp and the Carnet de Passage is filled out for the first time! Quick van check and we are allowed to leave, total time: 20 min. Welcome to Pakistan!Getting late, so we stay here for the night, the people direct us to Hotel PTDC, one of the government owned hotel chain. Throughout our stay in this country we will park more times at a PTDC, either on police orders or by own choice. Funny detail: At all hotels they have exactly the same menu (and prices). New country,: so new currency, language etc. From now on Assalom Alekum!The next morning we are enjoying our milk tea, eat chapattis and arrange with a business man to change some money! Rupees is the new currency. We follow the road further down to Gilgit, but as the road gets worse, we travel even more slowly. It takes us the whole day to get to Karimabad, only 100km in 9 hours! We are in Hunza valley, surrounded by high mountains and decorated by beautiful autumn colored trees and bushes! We find the perfect parking spot at one of the hotels. The manager is bored stiff because of lack of customers nowadays, so invites us for a tea. Even recommends us to stay bit longer so we can do one of the tracks into the mountains. But with parents worried at home, we decide to move on. At the parking we meet some other overlanders, a german couple and some cyclists who made their way here via Iran and South Pakistan. We are definitely not the only ones traveling here. A lot less since 9-11 however, when the tourism industry received a huge blow, leaving many hotels and restaurants half empty. Such a shame, cos the people are so hospitable and the scenery so beautiful! Maybe difficult to imagine back in Europe, but it is really not only what you read and see in the media! I urge all travelers to cross through this country, enjoy a milk tea and get to know this culture. It will change your preconceived opinion for sure. In Shalla! (With the will of Allah).Once we stop at a petrol station for lunch. And again I see these amazing Pakistani trucks. They are decorated with beautiful paintings, colorful decorations and all sorts of ornaments! On the outside and inside! I can imagine my van all done up like that one day. As I am taking pictures of one the trucks, the guy opens the door, so I can have a look inside. He even tries to tell me that I can ride with them, as they turn the car to fill up. So enthusiastically  I jump in, not telling Mira, as I am it will only take 2 seconds….that is until I find out they are turning onto the road…with no intention to turn back. Oh oh! After about 1km I can make it clear I am not coming with them and I get out. In the meantime the guy a the petrol station has told Mira that she should get going, because I am already on my way to the next to city with the people in the truck!!!! Somehow we miss out on each other when I walk back, so when I get back, Mira is already gone to find me. Only to get reunited again 5km later, when a nice Pakistani man drops me off at a police checkpoint, where she just found out I have nót crossed here yet! Will I ever learn???!!!KKH continues: slowing down every 500m for yet another road construction detour….and this for about 160km! Trying to avoid pot holes, rocks and other traffic in between! Making it to Gilgit with a soar back and butt! Poor Frits, poor us! But Madina guesthouse makes us forget very quickly. What a nice place with helpful staff! And the house guest, an old but wise man, who is eager to welcome us! We can park our car at the car repair place next door and use all guesthouse facilities. No extra charges, how great is that! Turns out this is the same place where Yvonne and Frank stayed 7 years ago. Some things never change ;-)) Mira is not feeling well and I need a break as well, so we decide to stay here for some nights, enjoying Pakistani food, read a book and discovering street life, which is dominated by men. But must admit, does not feel intimidating at all. It is just a way of life here.Far too quickly we have to move on again. Could stay here much longer, but the good thing is that you can always return to a place, and that is what I will do one day!The next 300km, which takes us 2 days we spend driving in convoy with an Austrian couple and even some armed police escort for part of the way. It remains unclear why that part supposed to be unsafe. On local and tourist advice we park on hotel parking every night (PTDC or other one). No problems, nice and friendly people. We sleep in the van as usual.Note to all you overlanders: From Besham going South the road is getting better!Sticking to the KKH and GT-road we make it to Islamabad, where we can park cheap and save on the tourist camping ground at Jasmine and Rose Garden. Here we meet up with Altaf, a guy we met in Gilgit, who can help us find a garage for some much-needed repairs on the van! Turns out some of the bashers have gone and steering part needs replacing. Also the stairs have kissed some hard rocks and has gone a bit crooked. The car repair shop is nothing more then a big parking where each mechanic has its own space to work. As soon as we turn up, 6 Pakistani men dive under the car, taking it apart, each one playing a different role. Improvising is what they do best here, something the mechanics in Europe are not allowed to do, due to the strict procedures and quality regulations! While they are working on the van, Altaf and us are jumping into a rickshaw trying to find the replacement part! Going on a special sightseeing tour! It took a whole day, but in the end (almost) all is fixed for less then $50! Thank you Altaf for all your help, translating and good laughs!Islamabad – Lahore – Wagah. We make it easily in one day. At the border we enjoy our last Pakistani meal and milk tea when one guy comes and warns us that we should hurry if we wanna cross into India, customs is closing soon. So after drinking our tea, we race inside. The Pakistani officials run with us, stamping our passports, filling out the carnet the passage etc. Only 5 min. to get through the gate….but it is too late. Even 10x please does not change the fact that we do nót have a diplomat passport and are too late to cross over to the Indian side. The only option is to stay at the border till the next morning. Not planned, but our last night in Pakistan turns out to be one of the best! Sharing a meal with the PTDC staff, talks in the special smoke room, milk tea with a feel good teenage movie, a Punjab breakfast and hot water shower the next day! Only after several milk teas and another border-almost-closing warning we make it just in time to cross….going into India, our final destination. After 13.820km and 14 countries it is time to discover this spiritual country that I have heard so much about…
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1257854357/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1257854357/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1257854357/tpod.html Tue, 10 Nov 2009 12:28:50 -0500 Overland to India...the long(er) way round

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Islamabad, Pakistan

Since my last web log touchdown in Bishkek, we crossed into Pakistan by now. We came back from our little tour to the mountains with Emilio and Maria, horse riding and staying overnight in a yurt at Song köl lake. Back in Bishkek again we visit the Chinese embassy hoping to get our final visa! This time not queuing up at 07.00, but arriving after breakfast at 10.30. Boldly I make my way to the front of the queue and show him the 'collecting visa' paper, just a 5 min wait and I am allowed to go in ;-)) Another 5 min. inside and we are the proud owners of the Chinese visa. No more visa needed, at least until I wanna make my way to Nepal or other country...no concrete plans for this yet.Throughout our trip we stayed in email contact with 2 Dutch guys, who also travel overland with a car from Holland to India (onto Nepal), taking the other way round (via Turkey, Iran and then into the Stan countries). It looked like we would miss out on each other as they had a slightly different itinerary. But here in Bishkek we can finally have our tea together! Unfortunately they ended up here to sell there car and stop their trip! Bad news about Pakistan and visa problems made them decide to stop here. As they still have a few days in Kyrgyzstan, we decide to do a little Dutch convoy to Isik lake, the second highest natural lake in the world and the Pearl of Kyrgyzstan! Of course we swap seats on the way, fun to be in another car for a bit, but prefer my own! It really is my (our) little house on wheels!4 on our bed is a bit of crowd, so we have to find a place to sleep. End of tourist season, not many hotel around anyway, we just ask around. So out I jump and ask a family. They are very helpful and before we know it, our cars are parked at their (friend's?) house, and warm beds are made inside, free of charge. They even leave for the evening, so we have the place to ourselves, how hospitable is that!The day after we make our way along the lake, where we find a great (camping) spot on the beach! The views are amazing; we decide to stay here for the night. This evening Maarten-Jan decides it is time to air his paper balloon; however the strong wind makes it crash and land! We talk, learning some new student turbo talk like HULDE! and play cards till late in the night, with the wood burner working....on Yak shit! Nice and warm with an interesting smell ;-)) Ron thanks for your welding work, the wood burner is working perfectly! You are keeping us freezing to death ;-)The next morning it is time to depart, but not before we help Maarten-Jan and Vincent to take all the sponsor stickers from their car. Some of which transfers to our van... Thanks guys! Time to make our way to the Torugart pass...It is a shame we cannot travel together into Pakistan! But great we finally bumped into each other! HULDE!We stop in Naryn for the night, briefly checking internet for what turns out to be the last time for a while. Then make our way up and up into the ShanTien Mountains to the border of China. The road is full of holes, so we are speeding up at 20km/hour with fear for Frits' health every time I hear a huge bang from the back axle getting another blow!As it getting dark we have to find a place to park for the night, an abandoned house at a lake seems the only thing possible. At high speed we try to collect as much Yak shit as possible to get the wood burner going, making our way through snow and ice: Not an easy job! Turns out we were very tired, because the next morning Mira finds a huge stack of dry shit near the van! Ahhhh It is very cold that night, Frits also thinks so, as he does not want to start in the morning! Oh oh, here we are in the middle of nowhere. What to do? Luckily there is Magic Start! And with huge thanks to the person who tipped me on this: It works brilliantly! 10min. we are on our way again!Border Procedure: After a few more km's and we are at the Kyrgyz customs, getting out of the country could not be simpler: We by-pass a huge queue of trucks and are allowed through the gate straightaway. Stopping at the customs office, I have to make my way inside to fill out declaration forms. Asking one thing is enough for the guy to say all is ok, let's leave it. Fine by me. Walking to the next desk for my exit stamp and all is done. Mira is even quicker and is already making tea and breakfast, which we enjoy on their grounds. No problem whatsoever. Total time: 15 min.Slowly making our way to the Chinese customs...the road leading us through snowy mountains! What a beautiful sight! Again we by-pass a huge queue of trucks and are allowed to enter Chinese area. At first it seems we can drive through without stopping, but finally one smart Chinese guy makes us stop. Now the circus starts...passports are taken with no sign of further activity. Luckily for us, our guide-for-China-to-be turns up shortly after and starts arranging things. We have to park the car 20m down the road: Vehicle check. About a dozen official looking Chinese gather around the car. Please give your luggage for scanning! Sorry don't have (we are not backpacking), 3 min. later 2 sleeping bags and a daypack are outside on the ground, waiting to be checked. 2 puppets go in the car and start looking at things, half wondering what they are looking at I guess. My little suitcase with computer things and cd's is the mail subject of suspicion: several cd's are taking inside for 'investigation'! 15min. they are back, any photos on them? Of course I lie and tell them no, knowing their panic reaction to 'discriminating' material.Finally we are allowed to continue, making our way to the second Customs office, which is down the road....so we think. We follow the car with guide and driver for what seems ages, until he stops and tells to speed it up a bit, because we have to make it to the office before 16.00 o'clock, closing time...100km down the road!!! This leaves us less then 2 hours to make it there, with road full of holes! This where the communication fails for the first time... After a 'I-hope-Frits-survives-this' journey we make it just-NOT-in-time at the office! As we drive through the gate, a water sprinkling system activates, barely showering the van. Money please, for disinfecting the car! You have to be kidding me, take it from the huge sum of money we have to pay! And so he does. 16.02, office is closed, what to do? Luckily the driver seems to know some of the guys, so after a 20-min wait we are allowed to enter Customs area 2. Are you carrying any fruit or vegetables? We try to convince him we only have the 1 apple and 2 potatoes we show him, but unfortunately he does not buy it. Vehicle inspection...the fridge is emptied, some cans are opened and only after a lot of pleating we can keep all the other stuff! Phuff. Once inside the building a thermometer is stuffed under our armpit...checking if we have a fever! I have a huge cold, but pretend to be fine, trying very hard not to cough or blow my nose...because before you know it they might think I have the swing flu and will be put in quarantine! Luckily for us we are declared healthy and at the next desk an entry stamp is put in our passports. There suppose to be one more thing to do, but we ignore it wave to a guy and go back to our van. Finally we can leave, but not until a police guy wakes up 20min later to lower a barrier... Total procedure time: 2,5 hours (without 100km drive). Welcome to China!Already getting dark, but we go to Kashgar. Along the way we already notice a big change in daily life. The Kyrgyz horse is exchanged for the Chinese motorbike!Kashgar; at first glance an uninteresting city full of cars, neon light and hotels! But I completely change my opinion when the next day we get to see the 'real' Kashgar, where the local people (Uyghur) have shops and do trading in the streets: The Old City. It is very difficult to put in words what the vibe is like, but it is amazing, alive, colourful and divers! Very characteristic old men, tradesmen and fully covered women and vehicles in every shape and size! With in the middle the famous mosque, situated at a huge square.We park at Semai hotel. Taking a shower is high on our list, but is impossible without staying in a room. As a room is only $5 / night, we take it for 2 nights, multi-tasking: shower, toilet, using the hot water for hand cloth wash and doing the dishes ;-))Our first Kashgar day we spend chasing money (again)...and going into discussion about the Big Bill, paying only part of the bill at first. I find it ridiculous that we have to pay $250 for customs for starters. Still think $1450 for 6 days is too much. Even though other organizations we found were double or triple this price!The next 2 days are spent office-hopping! I will not go into details too much, but it really pushed my nerves to the limit. Having a huge cold lowered my energy and this did not improve the situation! First day we drove to another city in vain, as the electricity, and therefore office people, was not working. Spend the afternoon at the hospital for a health check. Next day again to Artush, were we spend the WHOLE day (waiting) for a permit and 2 temporary drivers' licenses, which we did not need in the end! First the only guy that needs to sign is in a meeting (for how long?), then papers are missing, 2 hour lunch break, the fax room is locked with the key nowhere to be found, the permit is with a woman who already went home and more of these funny things! (NOT funny at the time I tell you).Due to all this bureaucracy we do not have much time to enjoy Kashgar or other interesting things. We have 2 more days to make it to the border, so have to leave early the next day. End of the afternoon we make it to Karakul lake where we finally see the yaks and the 2nd and 3rd highest mountain of Asia! We stay the night with a Kyrgyz family, friends of Tudajim (our guide). Nice and warm inside a house. Being at 3700m it is cold again! Our last day in china we spend most of the time on the phone with the travel agency discussing the rest of the money we have to pay! We want a discount because of we had to spend 2 days desk-hopping, something we pay them to do. In the end threats of not-leaving-the-country are used and we end up paying the whole amount, under protest (mostly mine!).Leaving China, also not easy. In the morning we have to go to customs (130km before the border at Tashkakent), as we are overslept we wanna do this formal stuff first and have breakfast after, taking a last tea with Tudajim. So we spend about an hour at 2 offices, vehicle check (this time we have hidden all food stuff), passport checks etc. All ok. So now breakfast.....Not possible! We are not allowed to turn back to the village AND have to rush to the border before the Chinese have their lunch break again! This is unbelievable...so the first 30min of the famous Karakorum Highway I spend in the back of the van, making breakfast with the old bread Tudajim gave us, enjoying the beautiful views through the little window! Bye Bye China! I leave you with mixed feelings.Luckily we make it just in time at the Chinese exit gate. To find ourselves 2km later at the top of the Kunjerab pass, entering Pakistan! A bit unexpected with no special notice board, so we hardly realize we just made it to 4700m, on the highest paved road in the world!!! Good on you Frits!Now we are in beautiful and hospitable Pakistan. A country I want to spend a new entry on. But just want to tell all of you that it is NOT only like the media inform you. Until now we have met lovely people and enjoyed amazing mountain views! A country I would love to spend more time in one day. This time we are sticking to the KKH making our way to India as quick as the road allows us...
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Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Hi there people,Just a short note to tell you are alive and well, no time to add photos this time, but I will add them later, most likely somewhere in China!Lots can happen in a week, and so it has for us!Walking and driving around in another country is the most important one...Crossing the Uzbec border was easy peasy, Kyrgyzstan our next destination. But...we did not have to say goodbye to the Lepyoska yet, they sell them in this country as well! I am a bread monster (as Mira calls me), must have something to do with the bakery I grew up in, but even I am getting fed up with this bread now...The first places we drove through reminded me lots of Uzbekistan, but with the difference that the people here are more distant and less curious or too polite. Only after crossing our first 2 mountain crossings (3165 and 3500m) I find myself in a really different country with their semi-nomadic way of life. Living in Yurts in the summer and in a village house in the winter...We are here late in the season, but there are still some yurts scattered around the plains and mountains...Snow-capped mountains and lots of water everywhere. The country is made up of 93% mountain area!While waiting for the Chinese visa, which we arranged in Bishkek, we wanted to escape from city life. Together with a Spanish couple (Maria and Emilio) we drive to Kochkor and Song-Kul lake for some horse riding and sleeping in a yurt! It has been over 3 years since I have been in one in Mongolia. The principle is the same, the construction slightly different.Now back in Bishkek where we collected our last visa (China), so tomorrow morning we are off to Isik-Kol lake (the second highest natural lake in the world, Lake Titicaca being the highest one). In convoy as 2 dutch guys are joining us with their van!Slowly on our way to China...exchanging Privjet for Ni How!The van is doing great: Frits took the mountain passes brilliantly and even started in one go on 4000m with -4 degrees celcius on the thermo! The biggest test is yet to come, but this makes me less worried and convinced that we will make it WITH van to India!more later...
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1254609940/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1254609940/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1254609940/tpod.html Fri, 09 Oct 2009 13:16:55 -0400 Overland to India...the long(er) way round

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Tashkent, Uzbekistan

<i style="">Summary:<i style="">By now 2 weeks in Uzbekistan…what a great country, offering the old Silk Road cities with their madrassas and other beautiful building and village life with street sellers, donkey and cart drivers and lots of people working the cotton fields as it is harvesting time! They love meat here, as it seems to be in every dish and the Lepyoshka (Uzbec bread) is sold on every street corner! The bread is made in special clay ovens, where they stick to the ceiling! It is delicious. We soak up daily life by relaxing in one of the many chaighanas (tea houses) and try all the local food like PLOV (a rice dish) or SOMCA (meat filled bread roll). After Bukhara and Samarqand we are now in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, where we have to arrange some visa. Also the place where we meet up with some people again! Only been 2 weeks in Uzbekistan, but it simply embraces you!Entering the country through hundreds of kilometers of the vast steppe plains, when all of a sudden the stage changes décor and we find ourselves in a valley full of cotton fields, with numerous donkey and carts on the streets, colorfully dressed women selling fruit and men with wearing the traditional black &amp; white hats! My favorite thing: The special tea drinking 'beds', which can be found at every Chaighana (teahouse) and in private backyards! You sit cross legged on this bed with a low table in the middle, drinking tea or eating one of the local dishes. For example: Plov (rice-meat dish) with lepyoshka (Uzbec bread). Something we have done regularly. The Lada is also well represented here! The people are curious and eager to talk. The fact that I do not have a husband is replied with Pachimu? Why? Good question! ;-)After Khiva (Xiba), we leave the first valley behind and with Stef Bos over the speakers we cross another 450km of desert to get to Bukhara: our next Silk Road city! This city has many madrassas, mosques and trading houses, all clustered in the center. Nowadays not as many as before, when the city was dominated by 200 madrassas and a mosque for every day of the year! What a sight that must have been! Road signs are rare here, so how to get to the old center? The taxi driver cannot explain me, but luckily TJ is there to help us out. He speaks very good English and even offers to come along to take us there. No clue where to park and ‘camp’, so I ask if we can put the van in front of his house. Bit bold I know, but most of you know me ;-) That evening we spend at his place where he lives together with his wife and mother-in-law. Not only can we park the car, but that evening we share a meal, can have a shower, may use the washing machine and sleep in the house! Basic things not so easy for us when traveling, so much appreciated! TJ and Lena show us their wedding video: Special because it is them and because we have seen a lot of newly weds and now understand a bit better what the wedding day is like. An Uzbec Islam wedding has many small ceremonies and traditions: just to mention two: Eggs dropping from her lap, the broken eggs stand for the number of children they will get; A wedding present consisting of a huge pile of mattresses, to be used when confined to the house for (traditionally) 40 days!We spend our day time sightseeing Bukhara, soaking up Uzbec life at one of the Chaighanas (teahouses). A simple thing like getting more money turns out to be a challenge. No ATMs in the city, so VISA card. It takes me an hour to find the NBU bank and when waiting in line at cabinet nr.11 on the first floor, the woman tells me the machine as been put at a big hotel in the center! Ahhh, so all the way back again. To girls show me their best smile. What is the exchange rate? 1 dollar = 1512 sum. What!!!! We got 1860 sum on the black market before, so this feels like a ripp-off! Smiling back I start to negotiate, final result: 1700 sum for 1 USD. Still crap, but at least it’s a bit more. Only later I realize this is rarely done, so pretty proud I got it done ;-))After a second night at their home, sharing tea, homemade wine and good company it is time to say goodbye. They have to go to work and we want to visit some more sites and have to hit the road again…Ochin Spasiba for everything!Following the old Silk Road and now tourist trail our next destination is Samarqand, a city full of culture and history, as well as many fountains, green parks and space. It feels completely different walking around here. We have seen many Madrassas until now, but the Registan Emsemble is the most beautiful of all! The tile work is amazingly detailed. Ironically all this work is not that old: Many of the restoration have been done in 1994, so only 15 years ago! I included one photo showing the before and after effect, big difference!In between the cities we stop at small villages. It is nice to get a view and feel of both city and village life! At one village we realize we have a flat tire. No problem, within minutes some guys come and help out, changing the tire and receiving more melons and some fresh made bread. Sharing and caring is very much part of the culture. Feel we, in western society, are too much focused on ourselves, less and less caring for our neighbor, let alone strangers. A few days ago we made it to Tashkent: the 4th largest city of Central Asia and capital of Uzbekistan with over 3 million citizens, although it does not feel like a busy place at all. The center is widespread with lots of green, huge buildings and large streets. For us mostly a functional stopover as we have to arrange at least 2, but preferably 3 visa: Kyrgyzstan, China and India. If we can arrange the last one here also, it means it is not a must to Bishkek (capital of Kyrgyzstan), leaving us the option to travel the smaller village roads instead. Also a place of reunion, as we meet up with Anvar again, one of the truck drivers whom we met on our first day in Uzbekistan! We are invited to his home and meet his lovely wife Tamara and sharing a lovely lunch. And we see Rustam for a drink, one of the guys from Khiva. By the end of the week, Marat should be in town as well! Great to meet up again! By change we have found the perfect free-city-camp-spot: next to a big hotel in the middle of the center, nearby the bazaar, a supermarket and internet café and walking distance from the embassies. Mira met 2 sisters in a park when sightseeing and they happen to live in the flat next to us, so we are temporary neighbors now. In between embassy visits our days are filled with souvenir shopping at the Chorsu bazaar, being on the phone with Holland, doing internet sessions, some sightseeing and socializing with people we meet here. On Thursday we were invited for Tamara’s birthday, which we shared with friends and family. Enjoying a great meal with VODKA, karaoke and dancing. Everyone, including us, had to give a little speech, with of course a vodka toast! It was a great night, meeting lovely people, who want us to stay in Tashkent, Why go to India?! Anvar is great, checking up on us every day, helping out wherever he can. Feels like my second dad! I am very grateful for all he’s doing. Hotel Dedeman parking is our temporary home now, where people start to get to know us and help us out with water, information and other things. One Pakistan guy even invites us for dinner and shows us the ONLY working bankomat in town! With US dollars in the pocket, Anvar takes us to the black market to change them (1900 sum in stead of the official rate 1521 sum at the bank!).Some of you are wondering how I am doing whilst doing all the sightseeing and meeting these great people. Well, I’m fine really. Mira and I are like a married travel couple, dealing with some communication problems at the moment. In some ways we are opposites and that makes it difficult sometimes. But I have a feeling we can overcome this. The deadline traveling still puts some pressure on the trip, but I have come to terms with the fact that we cannot stop at place for a long time and have to travel by schedule. The days are flying by and yet not. Have not found the time or energy to play the djembe much, do yoga or creative things. This will have to wait till India I think. The days are filled with sightseeing, driving, doing daily chores and socializing…not that I am complaining, feel very happy that I do not have to work like most of you ;-))Typing this last bit of the story, I am now also the proud owner of a one year multiple enty visa for India! Chinese visa will have to wait till Kirgizstan as due to bank holidays we are not the only ones waiting at the gate: 5 days waiting again....impossible if we wanna make it in time to the Pakistan border and see a bit of Kirgizstan as well. Tomorrow we have a mechanic helping out with checking the van, brakes oke? New radio installed, Fluids oke? etc. And another reunion as we meet up with Marat again, the guy we met at Khiva!! All in all Tashkent has proven to be a nice stopover! But enough cities for now, time to head for the mountains and yurts!Next time I can tell and show you if we found any!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1254758919/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1254758919/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1254758919/tpod.html Mon, 05 Oct 2009 13:29:36 -0400 Overland to India...the long(er) way round

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Khiva, Uzbekistan

<i>Summary:<i>At our last stop in Russia, Astrakhan, we camp outside a hotel, easy access to toilet, WiFi, phone and a frozen bottle for the still not working fridge! Functional shopping and on our way to Kazakhstan! Interesting border crossing at night! See details below. My first Kazakh night: Playing pool, pivo, vodka and husband nr.2 on offer! We have to cross Kazakhstan quickly as we are behind on schedule. This part of the country is mostly vast steppe plains, with many camels, salt lakes and some villages! Interesting to see that there seem to be more 'death people' villages then ‘living’ones! The graveyards are impressive here with amazing tombstones. Within 5 days we cross into Uzbekistan: Central Asia Silk Road country. Our welcome could not be more hospitable. The first day we spend with 2 truck drivers, who escort us across the desert, share meals with us and help us out in many ways. Ochin Spasiba! Hope to meet you in Tashkent! We make our way to Khiva (Xiba), the first Silk Road place on our visiting-list. And it is amazing: full of madrassas, beautiful tile work, cozy chaighanas (teahouses)! Unfortunately also lots of tourists, souvenir stalls and people who wanna rip us off ;-) Ichan Kala (Old Khiva): In many ways a place to remember!After leaving the little village with a car full of melons we make it to Astrakhan, our last Russian stop before we go into Stan-territory, starting with Kazakhstan. This city grows on you quickly. We camp in front of a 4-star hotel, which is very handy, as we do not sleep there, but can use their toilet, bottle in the freezer, ask away at the English speaking reception desk, receive phonecalls and ‘borrow’ WiFi connection internet 24 hours a day ;-) As this will be the last opportunity for a while, we do the necessary shopping (not easy as Russian shops tend to hide themselves…little doors, no shop windows!). We also stock up on (very cheap) Russian cigarettes as I assume more bribing needs to be done later on! We also have special give-away photos printed, as we do not have enough Dutch things with us as a thank-you-for-your-hospitality.After this functional stopover with internet overtime during the night (we had a LOT of catching up to do) it is time to cross borders. For those interested, the procedure Russia-Kazakhstan was: Russia out very quickly, entering customs area, quick vehicle check, quick passport check. They take the special paper (bought when entering) and give us a token which we have to give to the guy at the bridge 3kms down the road. After crossing the bridge we have to wait in line for Kazakhstan customs. Tough luck, we have to wait an hour (dinner time). After filling out declaration forms and waiting our turn we can finally enter customs area. Mira (passenger) has to go with passport to the terminal. I get a little paper for 1. vehicle check (quick job, nice guy) and 2. passport check at another desk. Electricity problem: so nothing to do but wait and socialize. Within 10 min. I can become someone’s 2nd wife! Thanks, but no thanks. After about 1 hour all is ok. Then I am taking away by 2 guys (Mira nowhere to be found) for customs papers and insurance... money-change guys swarming around me. First desk; filling out papers and entering in computer. I wonder how much this will cost me, as this is done OUTSIDE customs area I am guessing it is not obligatory. When he is done, he asks for T3000…in the end I give him 4 cigarettes ;-)) Insurance: No clue about prices and exchange rates, seems like I am getting ripped off, so no deal for now. One guy tells us about hotel within 500m, we can park there. Fine, as it is 22.00 o’clock and we are exhausted. No fun, crossing borders in the evening. Total time: 3,5 hours.In the hotel we can eat ‘op de pof’, deal with money the next morning. Mira is not feeling very well, so off to bed. I am invited to play pool downstairs…My first night in Kazakhstan: Vodka, pool, more vodka and pivo with a group of Kazakhstan guys. Also my second husband on offer!&nbsp; Welcome to our country ;-)In the morning, after knowledge about correct exchange rate, good night sleep and a shower!! We make the deal for the insurance (6 days =&gt; 12 euro) and some Tinge (local currency), always tricky on border! Time to hid the road again: As far as the eye can see vast flat steppe, sand and a lot of camels! The scenery is boring yet interesting; reminds me a lot of East Mongolia. Something that is very typical here: There are probably more death people villages then there are villages where people actually live!. Being an Islam country, for the death they create huge tombs above ground, all facing mecca (?), situated within defense walls. From far they look like little villages, dotted around the landscape. Only to realize up close that there are no shopkeepers here! For the night we stop at ‘living’ village: In the middle of the plains. Far from everything it seems. But no: one of our curious visitors has his mobile WITH INTERNET connection with him!!On our way to Uzbekistan border we pass Atyrau, located at the Caspian Sea, so it seems on the map. Nice to have another dip in the sea…Again we park near a 5-star hotel. WiFi, toilet and good cafй latte available ;-) In bikini ready to go we ask for directions. It turns out we CANNOT go to the sea??????!!!! It is only accessible by boat following the river…best option: Take a plane to Aktau 560km to the South! Must be a political/smuggling problem, because otherwise I cannot explain this madness!As we are here now and have found good company with a Romanian guy, we stay for the day. Atyrau has nothing to offer, but 3 bottles of wine, good talks and good food on top of our van make an evening to remember! Multzimir (also for shower) Ciprian! In this city we also pass the Europe-to-Asia bridge, unofficially leaving Europe behind and crossing into Asia!Ah and of course our second bribe encounter with the police: This time no seatbelt and wrong road turn were reason enough to stop us: License please! I pretend not to speak Russian. He shows me the offence in Russian: T6480 (about 35 euro), yeh right! Ciprian tells me to make a deal by putting T500 in my hand. Soon I am taking to the police car: again lots of threatening with taking my license and so on. Then;…Skolka? Here we go again. In the end we settle for T1000 and off we can go again. I wonder how many times we have to do this during the trip?! From now on we will try to give them no reason, but knowing that when they WANT to get our money, they will come up with something wrong anyway…and yes the next morning&nbsp; we are stopped again: You can just see them think: TINGE, but no it seems they cannot come up with a mistake! Tough luck guys!From Atyrau it takes us 2,5 days of driving to make it to the Uzbekistan border. In between more camels, steppe and curious people. On our last night in this country we are surrounded by a whole group of kids (all boys, are the girls allowed outside in this Islam country?). Later at night the older guys come and pay us a visit as well! No privacy this evening. Luckily when we are fed up, we can always close the doors and curtains and pretend we are ‘not at home’ ;-))As we are behind on schedule, we have to make our way quickly through this country. With the not changing landscape seems we are not missing out on much. With this I do not mean the COUNTRY. Kazakhstan is huge and for sure very divers and stunning. But this part of the country is drive-through-quickly it seems. And….ancient Silk Road cities await us in Uzbekistan!This time we cross the border in day time, so we can see where they lead us ;-)For those interested, the Kazakhstan-Uzbekistan procedure was: Leaving a country is always easier, this time passport checks before and after entering customs area (they are all so curious!). Filling out declaration form, handing over old stamped one (done at entering country) with new one; part 1 done. Then driving a bit further, desk nr 2: exit stamp in passport. Kuda? Where do you go? India, oke, all good: Daswiedanya!Entering Uzbekistan is another thing. There are a lot of people waiting line, Being tourists and brutaal, I walk straight to the guard and ask him what to do? He checks our passports and we are allowed to enter customs area (without vehicle). There the labyrinth unfolds: Office nr.1 for declaration forms, then again one guy leads us to a little office outside customs area for filling out papers. This time no money is asked for (because we are girls and friendly?). With papers to Office nr.2, customs control. Confusion about the Carnet de Passage, so I am taken to Office nr.3, where a translation computer awaits me. In the midst of all, the guy asks me for my email address ;-) After reassuring that CdP is not necessary here, we go back to Office 2 to have papers stamped. Continuing to office nr.4 for the entry stamps on our visa. Then to Office nr.5 for the final stamps on the custom papers. All done now. Total time: 2,5 uur.In the middle of this office hopping Rafsjan, a truck driver is very curious and concerned if all goes well. He invites us to have lunch with him when we all get through. So an hour later we are parked at an Uzbek road restaurant, where he shares a beautiful meal amd VODKA with us to welcome us to his country! The next 24 hours we spend with him and a colleague…They want to escort us to the next (read 400km down the road) ‘save’ place to camp for the night. So here we are cruising through Uzbekistan with a truck in front and behind us: The 3 Musketeers! At police control posts Rafsjan makes it clear we are with him, so no hassle. 2 flat tires are repaired on THEIR trucks, бfter the vodka shots are shared! They help us out with extra petrol, changing money, arranging a banya and more food. We could not expect our welcome to this country to be more hospitable. After such quality time, we find it very difficult to split up and continue solo. For sure we will meet in Tashkent guys!We want to see the old Silk Road settlements and Khiwa (Xiba) is first on our list. Mira is not feeling well again, so we stop early. This time we are allowed to park inside old factory gates, where they are working with the collected cotton. The guy also helps me out with driving me to the nearest shop: typical assortment consisting of canned stuff, sweets, bread and beer. Fruit and vegetable are not sold here, as they grow their own? A Mongolia reminder again! In the morning after receiving some raw cotton, we are heading for Khiva (Xiba). The old city is still surrounded by high defense walls and many madrassas intact. Although mass tourism also found this place, the site is amazing. Colorful tile work, high minarets and busy souvenir stalls ;-)Old Khiva (Ichan Kala): At one of the gates we supposed to buy a ticket for the complex with extra ticket for taking photos, tourists only. Yeh right! We ignore it and all seems ok. Later we climb one watchtower for half the price. Smiling and bargaining is the thing to do here! One evening we are invited for drinks by a Spanish speaking tour guide and his friend. From the "tea drinking bed" we continue socializing in our van. An evening of star gazing, learning Uzbek words and little sleep! In the early morning I walk around the old city. No tourists and souvenir stalls yet. Now I can picture how things could have been during Silk Road trading times. What a buzzing place it must have been, full of horses, camels and tradesmen trying to barter silk, opal, spices and other luxury goods,&nbsp; staying overnight in one of the many madrassas!After another teahouse visit it is time to say goodbye. Marak gave us the little Koran to hang in the car for protection. Good thing to have before going into the mountains! Even though we spend less then 24 hours together, it feels like much longer. The connection is strong and therefore I find it difficult to part. And so does he. Feelings do not need time and words. Khiva (Xiba), a magical place with beautiful memories!And as before, by now lots more has happened we are further down the road in Uzbekistan, Tashkent to be precise, but to let you all do some other things as well, I had to cut the story and stack of photos in the middle...the rest to follow soon!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1253092443/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1253092443/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1253092443/tpod.html Thu, 17 Sep 2009 04:10:05 -0400 Overland to India...the long(er) way round

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Astrakhan, Privolzhsky, Russian Federation

Hello dear all,Sorry for my lack of personal emails to most of you. Due to lack of time and internet availability I am not online much! Luckily I can do this writing en route…And I have to warn you: the stories are getting longer and longer!<i>Summary:<i>Entering Cyrillic speaking territory, with Watermelons, Vodka, High heels and Police checks. <i>We cannot go from the Danube Delta, Romania, straight into Ukraine, so we go via Moldova. It will make 15 countries in total to cross until India. This is the first country we encounter using Cyrillic language. Time to get back into Russian again! Border crossing are becoming stricter with more checks and paperwork. Once in Ukraine you get a real sense of contrast. Cities like Odessa and Yalta almost have a posh feel to it, while villages show us hard farm life with people walking their geese! And again it shows: the poorer, the more people share.We spend a few days at the Black Sea, sun bathing with the other sardines on an overcrowded beach, walking the funny boulevard at night. Even indulge ourselves with a day 'camping' at a hotel resort with swimming pool. By taking a ferry we enter the next country: Russia! The country of Vodka and Police checks….and more watermelons! The people are curious and friendly. We spend some time with Don Corleoni and his family, enjoying all good things Russia has to offer: Banya, Shashlik, Russian Mercedes Truck ride, vodka and pivo! Also had our first under-the-table-bargaining-police-encounter!I left you with the news that we were about to leave horse and carriage land-Romania, but from the Delta we cannot go straight into Ukraine. So had to travel via Moldova, now we will cross 15 countries on our way to India!Crossing borders into Moldova: already notice it is stricter with more paperwork and car checks. Procedure: We pass Romania customs without stopping and then stop at Moldova customs, where one person comes to check passports. Another person checks chassis nr. in car and does inside check. Then one of us has to go to a desk to show car papers, green card and passport owner vehicle. We are told to pay 2 euro at other desk and return with paper to desk nr. 1. Again car inside check by this person. Then all is signed and ok. We are the proud owners of 2 pieces of paper and the transit receipt. We can enter Moldova. Total time: 45 min.Moldova: The first country we will encounter using Cyrillic language. Time to get my Russian Phrasebook and old notes out and getting back into it again! This was one of the first languages I learned when I started my travels over 3 years ago. Many followed. It is so funny and difficult. They use the ABC, but with more characters and what you see is not what you should read; C = S, P = R, H=N,&nbsp; N=I, M=T and to make it more complicated the A,E and O are pronounced different according to the character order. Example: PECTOPAH = RESTAURANT. I have added a photo of a menu to give you a little taste of what we have to deal with on a daily basis ;-))) &nbsp;Having lunch in Moldova, we make it easy on ourselves by pointing to the neighbor dish and ordering the same!No time to stop in Moldova, so on the same day we leave the country again, with another border crossing, this time going into Ukraine. Just before Moldova customs we are already stopped by the police for papers check and most likely out of curiosity. He starts to laugh in misbelieve when he hears about our plans to travel al the way to India. With this thing? Yep. Leaving Moldova: We stop before a gate and what for someone to open. Maybe we should go into the first office, but we act stupid and let him come out, which he doesn’t, the gate opens. Passport &amp; car papers check. The little papers are handed over; one of us goes inside where more info is put into a computer. And another car check. Luckily they seem taken back by the amount of stuff we have inside and don’t ask us to take all out! We can move on.Ukraine Customs: We have to fill out Arrival/Departure papers, passport check, car papers check. We may enter customs area. One of us has to go to the first desk with Green card, passports and car papers. We receive a little piece of paper, which we have to hand over to the guy at the end of customs area. All ok. Welcome to Ukraine! Total time: 1 hour. Quick, as I was afraid it would take forever looking at all the desks and serious faces.Ukraine is huge! Destination is Black Sea with harbor city Odessa and the Krim as the 2 chosen highlights. Halfway to Odessa we stop in a little village for the night. As soon as we stop, the first person comes our way, curious and hospitable. We sleep in the van, but the next morning we are invited for breakfast, while another woman also offers us some grapes &amp; goat milk! The table is set and early morning we taste potato soup, cheese, yoghurt and fish, all homemade of course. And we are not to leave empty-handed: A watermelon, cheese, bread and tomatoes are coming with us as well. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that they thing Mira looks too thin and should eat more, more…more ;-))Within a few hours we are parked in Odessa, and what a contrast: Here posh cars are everywhere and fashionable people on HIGH heels color the streets! With bankomats more then you can count to take your cash, sushi restaurants, WiFi places and designer shops all over the place! Strange and funny at the same time. With the LP as our guide we explore the center with its easy-going feel. I let Mira have her day of luxury ;-) Eating out in a restaurant, enjoying café latte and starting the next day with sushi for breakfast! Can it get more posh then this on an overlander trip?! Have to admit I enjoyed all of it to.Time to move on, the Black Sea is awaiting us. The roads are full of holes and dips, so we cannot travel fast (bear in mind our maximum speed is only 100kmh anyway). In 2 days we make it to Yalta, city on the peninsula Krim, locally known as the Black Sea Riviera. And we are not the only ones who know this. As soon I as set my eyes on the beach I have to laugh: It is looks like a can of sardines: people on little towels as far as the eye can see, with hardly any space to make it into the sea! But we are here now, so I wanna try to take a dip into the blue/green sea! We manage to find a spot Ukraine way: You have to be quick and take over a spot as soon as people leave. The beach is a real paradise for people watchers: people sun tanning in the most unusual positions and Baklava sales people quickly making their way on the beach, without tramping on sardines! being just 2 examples.At the end of the afternoon we try to find a campsite. Not easy at all! We have seen some camping signs but they turn out to be some kind of apartment places. In Alusta, when it is getting dark, one guy directs us to an Aftostanka (fenced off parking area). Turns out a woman named Ira is running the place and for 1 euro we can stay the night. She even gives us hot water for tea. Later that evening the guy who helped us out pays us a visit, we share Ukraine and Hungarian wine, trying to communicate in Russian/English. His wife it visiting family nearby…yeh right ;-)As the fridge is still not working properly, we try to put a bottle of water in a freezer at every opportunity. This time Ira helps us out and returns it the next morning with again hot water for tea: Ochin Spasiba! (thanks a lot). Although difficult in urban Yalta, we try to find a camp spot again. The only "Kjemping" people can direct us to turns out to be hotel resort, where we may ‘camp’ in the back of the parking area behind the swimming pool. Not exactly what we mean. After looking for hours in vain, we decide to arrange a room with one of the locals, posted at the side of the road. Vladimir, who speaks English, turns out to be very helpful. In need of some time without being on the move, we decide to stay for 2 nights. This provides us with plenty of time to get a real feel of Yalta, the beach full of sardines during the day and it’s crazy boulevard in the evening. Although far too touristy to my liking, Yalta has a funny vibe: combination of Kermis, Leidse Plein in Amsterdam and Scheveningen. A Place full of history, but with a feel of Black Pool, a place where it all happened (in the past). You can find it all on this boulevard; food and artisan stalls, musicians, huge telescopes and to top it up a place where you can have your photo taken while posing on a motorbike dressed in kinky cloths and a wig!After 3 days of boulevard &amp; sardine-like sun bathing and the necessary internet session we’ve had enough. Not completely relaxed yet, we drive to the “Camp” Hotel resort and arrange to stay there for one day. For a small amount we can use all facilities, even get the key of a room so we can use the fridge! A few moments later we are install ourselves in reclining chairs at the swimming pool: Traveling is so hard ;-). And I manage to arrange someone’s mobile phone so I can spend an hour on the phone with Miranda: Super je te spreken meis! With thanks to www.televergelijk.nl Totally relaxed we make our way to the end of the Krim, following a beautiful coastal road, where we pass a place with great camping possibility right on the beach (to other overlanders: It is on the road P29, between Alusta and Feodosiz!!). Such a shame we did not know about this before. In the evening when looking for a place to camp, a german guy helps us out and directs us to a huge open area with a few beach café’s for a beer or two, where we can camp right on the seashore! Yes! Another morning dip in the Black Sea! Whenever Cigaronnes is banned in Spain, this is the place to set up new camp guys!Although we both feel we could stay here for a week, time is pushing, so off we go. Quick stop at the local winery (red wine and a great bottle of Port for 1 euro!) and continuing to Kepyb, where we can take the ferry across to Russia. Nothing is clear, but turns out we have to wait by the van for a plastic thing, which we have to hand in at the cashier and pay for the crossing. Just before passing the gates, a guy comes up to us: Do you have Russian car insurance? Green card not valid. I knew this already from Jeroen, so we decide to buy it from him (20 euro for 15 days). The fact that all cars behind us have to wait until this is settled seems not a problem. Once inside, the customs kermis starts: passport &amp; papers check (2x), van check (2x) and we are able to board. By then we are 4 hours later! 30 min. later we are on Russian ground. Procedure Russian Customs: Waiting…and waiting. Then Mira has to go into one line for passport control, I go to desk for Vehicle owners. Papers check, Van check, incl. drugs dog. Once more I have to go with papers to a desk, where more information is entered into a computer, which produces an official looking paper that will cost us about 8 euro. Humm (double insured now?). Finally we are allowed to continue. Total time: 7 hours. Welcome to Russia!5 km on our way: police check-point! Ahhh. Luckily all ok, Mira can show him the international driver’s licence. Good buy girl!After a short night sleep, we drive East, doing the usual things on the way: Buying a national road map, finding a bankomat, shopping and getting petrol. (Water)melons all over the place…sold at the side of the road. We stop to buy some. The people are so amazed to meet us that we get the melons for free ;-) The first encounters with the Russian people are good. They seem friendlier and interested then their neighbors.As we stop in a village at a lake, in which unfortunately we cannot swim, it seems to be a holiday with a fancy fair and local talent show in progress. The singing is not even that bad! Later that night a guy keeps us company for a while, interested in Mira, but being drunk and difficult to communicate with, I send him away at some point. His Russian present: He kicks over our ‘table’! Thanks a lot dickhead!Luckily our neighbors are more friendly, in the morning we have our frozen bottle again. Must admit she looked a bit wary when I knocked on their door, but a smile appeared quickly.Big driving day ahead of us, which starts very unpleasant as we pass a traffic accident with a dead woman on the road, not nicely covered up! I can just about hold my tea down. By the end of the day we stop at a tiny (fishing) lake, where Serg (the local guard) checks up on us. He invites us for tea, fish and even a place to sleep. All in Russian, so not sure I understand correctly. He comes back with his boss, who tries to explain the same thing. He is the owner of the Russian Mercedes (read: one of those great blue trucks), so I ask to go for a ride in it, sure. I am even allowed to drive myself! Super! Still undecisive about what to do, they bring the fish and the bottle over to us! That evening we spend the night with him, his wife, 2 daughers and some friends, while more beer and vodka are put on the table. Intending to leave the next morning, but they heat the banya (typical Russian bathroom/sauna) especially for us and invite us for shashlick later as well. What to do? So we spend another day with them, which improves my Russian lots! Unbelievable how much beer and vodka they drink ALL day long…. typical Russian family? For alcohol sake I hope not. Cannot believe how hospitable they are, your house my house. If it was up to them, they would not have let us go. And only after we are given fruit, homemade cheese, a knitted sweater a, a ferret skin and a toy rabbit of 5-year-old Sofia!.Time to make our way to Astrachan, a city at the Caspian Sea near the border with Kazakhstan. Just on out way we are stopped by the police. I was driving too fast, camera proof. Shit! Papers check, how much will the fine be? I see the two talk and just after he takes me apart, writing 200$ on a piece a paper. He must thing I am stupid! No way! So I tell him in Russian to give me a NORMAL fine, not tourist-rip off bullshit. He starts to threaten me that he will take my licence, because I made a traffic offence. Sorry mister, I am not intimidated quickly! More waiting, then….out of the blue: Skolka? (How much?). Ah, the unofficial bargaining has started. I decide to try 500Rb (about 10 euro). Offering my usual smooth talk at the same time. After promising him that we will go for an evening of Banya, shashlik and dancing when I come back from India, all it settled. We can continue. Later that day: 4 more police checks, luckily only paperwork and curiosity stops…In the afternoon there is a change…like as if we crossed an unofficial border. The landscape has changed, big steppe plains as far as the eye can see and the people look different to. As if we are already in Stan-country. It reminds me lots of Mongolia. When we stop in a little village for the night, we are a big attraction and not before long the first villagers come to talk to us. By nightfall we are the proud owners of 8 melons! Telling them we already have some, does not work! The only option is to accept. Luckily we both like melon….but for how much longer ;-))))And Frits: He is doing very well. Some headlight problems easily solved by fixing a lose wire, continues flat tire solved by fixing the extension ventiel. I still hear noise from the gearbox or back axl, but so far so good. Going slow uphill, but getting there. The real challenge lies ahead…
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Somova, Romania

<i>Summary: <i>After Balaton lake days we have been on the move again, crossing 3 countries…now at the Krim, Ukraine. We spend some more days in Hungaria, quick visit to Budapest, wine sipping in Eger and eating a traditional goulash meal! Crossing into Romania, a country I fell in love with from the start. The land of the horse and carriages, fruit stalls at the side of the road, grannies chatting in front of their houses, hills, sunflowers, Dracula history and lots of hospitable people! Dancing on Andre Rieu, Romanian campfire night, exploring the Danube Delta, little ferry accident and lots of free camping! Feeling better, learning the language. A country I would love to come back to one day! Multzimir!It has been only 2 weeks since I wrote the previous story, but it seems ages ago! Back when we were still in Hungaria…leaving Balaton Lake. After some days of work and relaxing it was time to move on again. As the LP (Lonely Planet book) mentioned Tihany village ‘too cute to be true’ we stopped to see and judge for ourselves. Being full of tourists and little stalls to sell, it was no more then nice. The chilly pepper shop being the highlight of the town! And Mira did find her green hat there! We camp at the other side of the lake, at a great lookout spot, on our way to Budapest. Lovely sunset, perfect opportunity to eat on the roof terrace for the first time! Sightseeing Budapest, divided by the river into Buda and Pest. We spend most of our time in Buda, visiting a beautiful church (thanks girl!), donating to the Hari Krishna and enjoying another (wrongly made) Café Latte. Pest doesn’t seem too appealing, but could be we did not see the best of it. Mira takes the opportunity to go to the hairdressers and we eat a typical Hungarian meal in a sleazy restaurant! Maybe it’s me, but this city does not appeal to me much, one day it needs a (longer) second change. We end our city-evening with a cocktail, as there is a no 0%-alcohol tolerance for drivers; it is great that we have our bed with us!Next stop: Eger, a little town known for its 100+ private wine cellars. As we like wine, this is a place to visit. The cluster of cellars is just at crawling distance from our camping. At first the town seems boring, but after some good wine, food and discovering, this is what the LP should describe as ‘too good to be true’! In the morning I take the change to go to the thermal pools, so up at 6, in&nbsp; the hot water by 06.30….aaaahhhhh nice! We end up staying there a bit longer, one of the reasons being: cloth shopping! By change we find this great place with cool cloths for good prices. As I have not bought anything in the last year, after a bit of persuasion from Mira, I decide to go for a dress, skirt and t-shirt! And Mira goes for 2 dresses as well. Us girls wanna look cool sometimes ;-)) Pap, Mam, this is definitely a place you would love!Time to leave Hungaria…But just before we cross into Romania, we have a traditional goulash soup, and I can keep the little pot as a souvenir! It is a thing I developed over the years, Buying/keeping things from the countries that people use in every day life. Things I will use (one day) when I have my own home somewhere.As soon as we drive into Romania, I fall in love with it. Cannot really explain, but I just do. The scenery is amazing, hills, horse and carriages everywhere, fruit stalls at the side of the road, old grannies chatting in front of their houses…and many people can speak (some) English and Romania Limba (language) is similar to Catalan, the language Mira speaks fluently. Makes it much easier to communicate then in Hungaria, with a language that should resemble Finnish, but does not really. Veikya! (Difficult). Our first night in Cluj-Napoca at the campsite for a hot shower, which we get in the morning, although it looks like back to high school, taking a shower in one open space with the other (female) camping guests ;-) We are on our way to Transylvania, Dracula area. Visiting the Turda salt mine on the way. Nothing spectacular, but it is huge and funny to see that they are building a theme park inside it! Romanian way of attracting tourists I guess. Sighisoara, known as Dracula village, is worth a visit, unfortunately we cannot stay long, many more miles to drive. I find it difficult dealing with this deadline and itinerary sometimes. Doesn’t leave much space for unexpected things and lingering around when it feels good. Knew about this before we set off, and trying to accept this, but today find it very difficult. Following Mira’s idea, we choose 2 highlights in every country, not spending (much) time in between. I tell my mind to accept.Near Brasov we park next to a little ‘pensione’ in the village Harman. I go ask to see if we can park on their premises, no, but some guests there, Mihaela and her husband Sorin, offer us to use their bathroom. We end up drinking Romanian wine with them, dance on Andre Rieu (Petru, her father has a whole karaoke sound system with him!)! The ‘pensione’ is like a little Garden of Eden behind the gate; To all of you wanting to visit this country, stay here (I have the address)! We are invited for breakfast, are given a Romanian road map and leave them full of gratitude and the promise to stay in touch. Multzimir for all!!!We are in Burgerland area, where there are more then 200 churches built within defense walls, as a place where people and food storage were safe at times of battle. In Harman the German ‘church keeper’, glad to be able to speak German again, told us ALL about it!Although I like towns and cities, I longed to be in nature for a bit, going for a hike or something: away from people and cafés. On recommendation by locals we go to Busteni. Guess he told many people, cos it is packed when we arrive! We hike to a waterfall, but it is well tramped path, where the snack stalls are awaiting us as the end it…not exactly what we had in mind, but it still feels good to walk and be surrounded by trees. There will be more and higher mountains waiting for us in Kyrgyzstan, where we go for longer hike.Just as we were thinking about where to stay the night, a local tells us about a huge free camping area, even takes his car and leads us the way. How nice! The area is amazing, along a little river, in between mountains. Perfect Rainbow gathering spot! It is weekend, so lots of locals around for bbq &amp; campfire. We end up parking next to a Romanian family celebrating a wedding. With my newly learned Romanian words I start chatting, beers are given and before we know it, we are dancing and eating with them through the night: a Romanian Saturday night out in nature ;-)The area is known for bears roaming around. Lots of signs to warn people, as just before it had been in the news that 2 people were attacked and killed. The next morning the neighbors find their watermelon spilt and I see a huge garbage container thrown over: Bears??!!On our way to the next highlight: The Danube Delta. This is a huge area bordering Ukraine, where the Donau meets the Black Sea. It is the 3rd largest Delta network of waterways in Europe with supposedly over 10.000 bird species and fauna. Before we get there, we pass through Braila, where we have to take a ferry across. A small ferry, where cars have to park up to get as many on board as possible….hummm. So we go on, and the guys insist on us reversing in between 2 cars with little spare space. Result; I scratch a new car. No photos to show you, but this is what happened: The women go mental! Demand money and/or go to the police. Ok, we go to police. As we get of the ferry, the ferry-guy tries to rip us off by charging 4x the price, One of the women helps us out and tells me the correct price. At the police, the guy tries to send us away, just a scratch, does not want to make the papers. In the end papers are made (insurance work) and the women turn super friendly and even try to get the ferry-guy fined!On our way again. There are lots of designated free camping areas around. This evening our spot is at a lake side. Not the best water, but of course I wanna jump in and cool off. The days here are hot and sunny! In Tulcea we have to leave the van and jump on a hovercraft into the Delta. Together with a German couple, we are the only ones getting off in Crisan, a village: one lóng street along the waterfront. The next day we decide to join a Belgium group on a day tour into the Delta, sharing a boat with dry-humor guys, bird spotting, mosquito killing and lots of water lilies. Great to be on the water, fun to see the pelicans. Heaven for bird spotters, a nice day trip for me.Time to make our way towards Moldova (as we cannot cross straight into Ukraine) and leave lovely Romania. We will see us again one day ;-)Besides our sightseeing things, how are things a few weeks into the trip: We are still looking for the best travel pace, who is driving when, how many hours to make daily. Until now the travel days have been hard, too long and left no space to relax. Cooking in the dark, exhausted in the evenings. We now came up with a new scheme, starting earlier. Living together in our moving house is working out, aside some communication problems. We are alike, yet different. So adapting is necessary is certain things. Talking is the key, which we do. I learned to be less chatty in the mornings, try to be less controlling and overenthusiastic in certain things. I learn to eat slower, with more awareness of the taste, eating less, not yet with a regular interval, which is necessary for me to truly deal with my eating problem. Also talked about this and with the new travel scheme (however silly it may sound) this should improve as well. Difficult to keep the food diary, but reading a special book now, this keeps me focused.At the time of writing we are already in Ukraine, at the Black Sea, but little time/energy to write and no time spend in an internet café until now…so our Ukraine adventures will follow soon(er).
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1250757570/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1250757570/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1250757570/tpod.html Wed, 26 Aug 2009 03:13:03 -0400 Overland to India...the long(er) way round

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Badacsonytomaj, Hungary

<i>Summary:<i>After spending some days with my soulmate Roman and his girlfriend Martina, it is time to move on. Thanks for the drum session, your house being mine and your support with and without words. We will see us in India!? The van is repaired again, time to continue our journey. Crossing the border into Slovakia, sightseeing their capital Bratislava, then crossing into Hungaria, discussing a no-head lights fine with the police. In Hungaria we camp out at Balaton lake, working on the van and relaxing as well. I am unstressed and living the moment! Visiting Touristy Tihany as well (LP says Too cute to be true ;-))After my time with Roman and the van repaired, it is time to move on again. The one big deadline is crossing the Kunjib pass going from China into Pakistan. To be sure that the pass is open, we have to be there by the end of October. Untill then, schedule is open to change. Which forced by Frits (the van has a name now!) was not our own for the moment. Martina once again, thanks for the skirts, that was a lovely gift! We shall wear it often!Mira and I both realized that some real chill-out time is needed to get connected, together, with the van and the trip. Camping at the waterfront would be the ideal place. So we headed for Balaton lake in Hungaria. Not really taking any time for more sightseeing in Czech, but we want to stop at Bratislava, the Slovak capital. This is a nice place with an historic center, showing of old buildings and a castle on a hill. Throughout the center statues have been posted, and, like any other tourist, we try to spot all! Some hard work to find the 'working man', but of course we found him in the end! For lunch I decide to have a garlic soup……well good choice for me, but not for Mira as she has to suffer for another day with the gigantic smell I produce after. She likes garlic, but this is even too much for her. I am banned from eating more of these garlic soups ;-)))In Slovakia it is compulsory to have your headlights on during the day, I understood that, but as we drove out of Bratislava to the Hungarian border, I forgot about it and Mira did not turn them on automatically, so at the border we are stopped: police control….60 euro fine for no lights! What!!! Mira being more bold then me, asking the why-question and a receipt (they only have receipts for 20), manages to have the fine reduced to 20 euro!!! Well done Mira!By nightfall we are where we want to be for now. On a small(er) campground at the lake. Staying here as long as we need to in a way. Reorganizing the van is top priority. It has been camping out in our own house until now, with things not in place. Does not work well and keeps things a mess in my (our) heads as well. Also little chores need doing on the van. In between, swimming, chilling and getting into the moment. Each of us for our own reasons.One big thing that annoys us both is the fact that the fridge is not working! On electricity it does nothing (well the light is swithed on, but that’s it). On gas it gets a bit cold, but nothing good enough to save the cheese inside! Maybe this teaches us something about last minute purchases, but all was well when I went to collect it. Vraagje aan de ex-eigenaar als je dit leest: Wil je ajb een berichtje achterlaten op mijn weblog? Misschien dat we iets over het hoofd zien?The last 2 days we have been very active with van, turning the kitchen area into a real camper kitchen, with hooks and tools in place and most importantly easy to reach! Mira pained the outside of the van, so now Frits is white/green, a sunflower will follow later ;-)Unfortunately one of the extension tubes for the tire has come loose, broke off and gave us a flat tire, luckily filling the tyre again did the job! Sun protection screens are made, seat covers in place, cupboards now stay closed… stuff sorted out, we are ready to continue the journey!And……we slept on the roof the last 2 nights!!!, under the stars on the mattress ;-))Overlooking the campsite in the morning, what a great feeling! I am soooooo happy with the roof terrace! Thanks again Ron and Danny for helping me realize it!We did not really take the time to connect with other people at the campsite, but we has nice Hungarian neighbors, as always I clicked with their son from the start. Again this kids-connections fills my heart, a sign my future will involve (doing something for) kids. Due to them I have learned my first Hungarian words; Nem ërtem (I don’t understand) and ërtem (I understand), Küsunum (Thank you). As I am typing this story now, I really feel I want to do things for me, without the pressure of still finishing the van, organizing things in the van. I am here, and it is a great feeling! Hello world! India here we come!p.s. by now, we have visited Budapest and are in Eger, see our route....but no time to upload this story until now.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1250322013/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1250322013/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/foegoer/6/1250322013/tpod.html Mon, 17 Aug 2009 09:29:59 -0400 Overland to India...the long(er) way round

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Mlada Boleslav, Bohemia, Czech Republic

<i>Summary:Hectic last days in Holland, with lots of tears while saying goodbyes. Just across the border in Belgium car troubles, broken lager! So repairs need to be done in Brussels, our first camp spot. With Uzbekistan visa in our passport, we finally drive to Czech Republic, where we meet up with my soulmate Roman and his girlfriend Martina. Again car troubles, leaking oil at the back axle. Staying in Mlada Boleslav for a few days longer for more repairs. Mira impulsively flies back to Holland for suprise visit. I try to ground myself and live in the moment. Van is repaired, we will be on the move again tomorrow...Only a week has passed and already lots of things happened...The last days in Amsterdam could not be more hectic! As the&nbsp;the back axl was replaced, it turned out the cardan oil was&nbsp;still leaking in 2 places, so the day before setting of&nbsp;on&nbsp;the journey I had to go back again to get it fixed...&nbsp;for that and other reasons, like my mental state, we decide to set off on Saturday, first stop Brabant. To add to my state of "relaxation" I delevop a toothache, so on Friday I am visiting&nbsp;a dentist for an emergency treatment, which he would nog give me at first!!!&nbsp;Put persistent as I can be, luckily I am now typing this message with a (badly) repaired&nbsp;tooth without pain.The last days are about seeing friends, clearing and closing the Pipi Langkous house for the last time,&nbsp; Buying some more things, arranging last paperwork and picking up the passports from Visumburo, going through stuff with Mira to put the van, to be ordered later...Then on Saturday it is really time to start driving, visiting my aunts for a (too) quick but lovely visit, and on to Miranda. Still there I have to arrange computer things and do last things on the van, but the To-Do list can be thrown away after. What a great feeling! On Sunday afternoon, Bianca, Sietske and Max drop by for last goodbyes. Lovely to give them a last hug. Tears flow. After dinner my last difficult goodbye with Mier is unaffoidable and difficult. Part of me wonders WHY do I want to be on the move again...but I know great adventures, great people and learning moments await me! On to Tilburg to&nbsp;meet up with&nbsp;Mira at her parents place and arrange the van. We decide to leave the next day, taking the&nbsp;opportunity to have a good night sleep and a morning shower. Mira still has to finish things off and the embassy only being open until 12, has us finally setting of in the afternoon...On our way to Mechelen, for an unexpected change to give Christa&nbsp;another hug...we are&nbsp;in time for dinner until.... Mira remembers she has left her drivers licence at her parents place!!Pretty important document, so we have to go back. Luckily of us her parents meet us halfway in Turnhout. Thankx a lot for this!On our way again, till we have to stop on the side of the road as the car makes a strange sound. No, not already in trouble.&nbsp;Yes it&nbsp;seems so.&nbsp;Luckily we make it to Mechelen, much later then intended, Christa, so quality time will be in India??? On Tuesday we make our way to the Uzbekistan embassy early, where we get the visa straightaway, after paying a nice sum of money of course. Time to look for a garage, cos the car is getting worse and worse. Asking and calling around, finally Piet can give us a DAF/LDV dealer in Brussels....turns out the middle lager is defect. Repairs can be made the next morning. So our first night sleeping in the van&nbsp;is in Brussels, spot: in a sports park with a beer, grass and toilet at hand. The next morning a visit to the DAF garage, within a few hours the lager is replaced and we are on the move again, Czech here we come! Unfortunately I still hear strange sounds from under the car and somewhere in Germany I also see the oil&nbsp;drops on the left back wheel, leaking through the rubber...NO, what now?! Another garage has to be found when we get to Mlada Boleslav...I manage to drive to his mothers' place in one go. Suprising her and Roman! Turns out he has his one place now, a great yoga center / teashop, alias&nbsp;City Cave. I am so happy to give him a hug again. tranquillity of the place overwhelms me and.....I break. Cannot stop crying. I feel soooo tired, not living in the moment at all. My mind racing here and there, worried about the car, still exhausted from the running the months before. I hoped I could shake it off when finally on the move, but cannot.Due to the fact that the van has to be repaired again! It keeps me at Romans place for few days longer then planned, days I mentally need to ground myself again. Good talks with him and Mira helped me with this. Mira takes the opportunity to fly back to Holland for a suprise visit to a friend! Funny Crazy! Over the weekend the car cannot be fixed so trying to relax and spend quality time with myself, Roman and his girlfriend Martina. Visiting country pub, going to nature for long walk and spring water and participating in a drumming session, finally touching my Djembe again! Finally feel grounded again,I am here and now.At this moment, Frits (we named the van), is at the garage, to find out what more needs to be done, and what it will cost us. Can it be done today, more spare parts needed? I will let you know about this and other things....oke just come back from the place: Turns out the mechanic at the garage in Brussels forgot!!!! to tighthen the bolts at the back axl, so oil was leaking everywhere and on a more bumpy road we could have lost the whole thing!!!! 115 euro paid for nothing! You can understand I will send them an email and claim the money...big part of me wonders why I changed the back axl in the first place. As strange sounds come from under the car ever since. AhhhBut as Roman said: Be thankful that it could be fixed here, so I couls stay at his place, have someone who speaks the language. Time giving me the space to relax and ground myself.&nbsp;A much needed thing, as more tears then smiles have decorated my face until now!Mira will be back today, I am&nbsp;actually looking&nbsp;forward to it, want to travel together! Realize it now.Something I could not really see&nbsp;until now.&nbsp;All&nbsp;happens in live for a reason,&nbsp;I try to take things (again) as they come...the good....and the (little) bad. Even&nbsp;I cannot&nbsp;control&nbsp;all things in life.&nbsp;Frits, Mira and I will continue&nbsp;our travels....aiming end stop India!As they say: 'It is all in the attempt'
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Udenhout, North Brabant, Netherlands

Dear all,This is the morning where the adventure starts....Bags packed, van finished enough, emotions at its highest!Thoughts all over the place, but most of then about the amazing adventure that awaits us.This time saying "see u later" is so much harder, will miss u all.But I know myself, once on the road, the travelbug kicks in again!Photos will come later, now time to have breakfast and call my parents...Then in the van and on our way to Brussels to arrange visa for Uzbekistan!After, to Czech where I will be able to give my dear soul-mate Roman a hug again.We will keep in touch,Big Hug,A
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