TravelStream™ news feed for member flyin_bayman on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/flyin_bayman en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Fri, 11 Apr 2008 16:11:09 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1180112820/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1180112820/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1180112820/tpod.html Fri, 11 Apr 2008 16:11:09 -0400 Sunny and spectacular Spain ! OLE........

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Nerja, Spain

Nerja - Costa del Sol on the Mediterranean

We finally exited Granada, the driving city from hell. The drive to the sea coast provided a view of the distant Sierra Nevada mountains and many more olive groves. Things were moving nicely until a beeping sound came from the car and a 'pneumatico' signal appeared on the dashboard. Yvonne checked the car manual and with some quick interpretation told me that the signal was for low tire pressure. Oh great, what next!

Eventually we saw the sea and as the town of Nerja came in sight, the sun appeared from behind the clouds that had been following us from Granada.

After checking into our B&B and picking up some takeout for lunch, we headed to the beach. With our swimming gear in hand we settled on the white sandy beach under the hot sun next to a frolicking German family and a few other tourists. It was nice to feel the salt air and hear the pounding of the surf against the rocks. Its times like this you appreciate growing up by the ocean - even if the water is somewhat cooler.

Walking around Nerja, despite the tacky souvenir stores targeting the British tourist, was relaxing and rewarding. We even stopped at the house of an elderly lady selling home grown veggies and fruits on her door stop. Fruits and vegetables were abundant, fresh from the vine and inexpensive. There were also so many exotic varieties to chose from, for instance, this was the first time I had fresh figs.

Nerja is known for the 'Balcon de Europa' which is a large balcony that stretches out over the cliff's edge and provides amazing coastal views. The Balcon is the gathering place of Nerja and where we enjoyed a couple of evening shows.

We were sitting having ice cream at a café when the first evening act appeared. A parade of Egyptian looking men walked down the street with fire sticks and loud drums leading to some sort of sacrificial platform. There was lots of fire and noise but not much else. The main act was more entertaining, called 'Placidos Domingos', were a sort of travelling gypsy troupe that sang, juggled, and performed acrobatic tricks.

After the evening entertainment we headed down to the now deserted beach. The relaxing sound of the surf and smell of the sea in the fresh sea breeze reminded us both of our youth. Mine in Newfoundland and Yvonne's along the Mediterranean. This was a great way to finish up our last night in Spain.

The next morning we left early around 8am to get to the airport in Malaga for our 12:30pm departure. The drive went very smoothly - finally the Spanish driving thing was working out. We would even have a couple hours in the airport duty free stores to spend our remaining Euros. After parking the rental at the Avis drop-off, I opened our flight details to check our flight number. It was that moment that the worst possible rookie travel mistake was revealed to me. Our flight actually arrived at 12:30 and our departure was at 10:30. I checked my watch - it read 9:45. Again after a couple, loudly audible choice words, I told Yvonne 'Lets Run, we are very late, our flight is leaving now!"

Luckily the terminal was a 2 minute walk, I grabbed the bags and started running. We got to the British Airways check-in and were promptly refused check-in. I was about to get very ill until Yvonne checked the board and saw the flight was delayed by 15 minutes. Then she used her beautiful charm and nicely asked the gentleman agent to let us please board, especially as the flight was delayed. He relented, tagged our bags and called the baggage handling to take our bags. After a big 'Mucho Gracias' and a thankful pat on his back, we were off.

But our ordeal was not over as the security line was very long. We ran to the front and pleaded with the line of departing British tourists to let us bump the queue. We got through security and started to run again...until, we hit the passport control line. Again we bumped the line, were let through and again started to run to the departure gate as the departure notice was now indicating 'Last Call' for our flight. After running full tilt for about 10 minutes we arrived at the gate and slapped our tickets and passports on the departure counter.

The two agents looked at us and stated we can not board the plane - we were too, and wait for this....early! They had not started to board the plane yet! Yvonne and I looked at each other and laughed with a big sigh of relief. We had just been through an crazy Amazing Race-like experience just to be early! At least we had express check-in service through security!

We boarded the plane and said good-bye to Spain. Even with a bit more excitement than planned, it did not dampen the joy of our beautiful trip to Spain.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179576600/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179576600/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179576600/tpod.html Fri, 11 Apr 2008 16:10:05 -0400 Sunny and spectacular Spain ! OLE........

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Madrid, Spain

The 'Real' Madrid

Spain better know as the home of the matador, for running with bulls, lunchtime siestas and the Real Madrid soccer team. That in a nutshell summed up my less than impressive knowledge base of Spain prior to this trip. The siesta and soccer parts sounded great but I was not convinced on the need to witness human skewering by a bull.

Part of my enjoyment when traveling is the planning phase. Deciding what to see, where to stay and what to eat and drink is fun - especially when the trip happens as planned. I like to be aware the culture before immersing into it. During my research of Spain, what I found most interesting, was the description of the typical Spanish lifestyle. Most people start work late (when compared to North America), can have 2-3 hour lunch breaks, finish work around 8, head out for appetizers ('tapas') and/or supper around 9-10 pm. This sounded like a really relaxing pace of life but I was slightly apprehensive as I pondered, "how could I survive with those restaurant hours?"

Madrid, Spain's capital, was the first stop for Yvonne and myself on our Spanish tour. Unfortunately we would only get to the central and southern parts of Spain on this trip as Spain is a large country. Northern Spain and Barcelona would have to wait until a future visit.

Upon arrival in Spain we were greeted by a silent yet stern looking customs officer who took my passport, inspected my picture and loudly stamped 'welcome to Spain' on a blank passport page. We were officially in Spain! Olé - now bring on the bulls.

Our first night involved immediate immersion into the Spanish scene as we walked the streets of Madrid and soaked up the local ambience. After dark, the streets of Madrid come alive as the mix of tourists and locals head out for beer and tapas or to wander in the cooling night. Our walkabout led us to Plaza Mayor, a large and beautiful plaza in central Madrid. The plaza's perimeter is lined by restaurants and bars. There was even a bar dedicated to bullfighting. On the walls of this 'bullfighting bar' were the heads of various 'toros' that had put up a good battle but still met their end at the hand of the matador in the bullring.

We settled in at an outdoor café for some tapas and drinks and watched the many people go by under the clear moonlight night. What a wonderful and memorable place for my first beer in Spain (always a memorable moment) - indeed a great start to the trip.

The next day, Sunday, was for exploring. It did not take long to realize that Madrid is truly a magnificent city. A favourite part of Madrid had to be the many grand boulevards, parks and plazas throughout the city. Most streets were majestically lined with blooming royal purple and red flowers and trees leading up to a spectacular water fountain centered by some beautiful statue. Ottawa, a great city itself, seemed a minnow in comparison to the splendour of Madrid - I was left asking why can't Ottawa even have one beautiful fountain?

While zooming around Madrid on the 'hop on, hop off' bus we hopped off at the 'El Rasto' flea market, which is one of Europe's largest. After more than two hours of walking, and walking and walking past hundreds of vendors, shoe stands, antique dealers, junk traders, tacky tourist stands and starving artists we gave up - it was too large to visit in a single afternoon - plus there was lots more to see and do.

This does not mean though we left empty handed, as it seemed that everything under the hot sun was available for sale. Yvonne picked up some stylish shoes and souvenirs while I acquired a hat to protect my head from the blistering Spanish mid-day sun.

The refined cultural event of the day was a visit to the Prado art museum. On Sunday it is free which mean a long line up. However the wait was worth it. Being one of the largest in Europe, it contains many famous artists and paintings, but of all the paintings I saw, there was one that clearly stuck out.

It was a painting done several hundred years ago by a Spaniard named Bosch or 'El Bosco'. This large three panel painting depicts the evolution of man from his past (with Adam and Eve), his current state with scenes of temptation and sin and finally the future describing where man is heading - which is basically down the gutter! It is hard to describe the many scenes on the painting but lets just say, you have to wonder what El Bosco was drinking back in the 1400's.

The highlight of our last day, Monday, in Madrid was the visit to the Royal Palace. Our tour took us through about 20 lavishly decorated rooms. From the throne room to the dining hall (seating over 100) and the various art halls, we received a glimpse of the riches of the Spanish royal family. However, the most unique item in the whole palace was not some rare painting or crown jewel but rather the men's urinals. Yes, the men's bathroom urinals. This was the first place I have ever seen to have a men's urinal with a lid. In fact this style of bathroom accessory are known as beer stein urinals - I just would not want to taste this special brew though.













Spanish Lifestyle

The Spanish way involves a more relaxed pace of life. While wandering Madrid, I noticed that a large number of stores and businesses closed at midday for two to three hours to allow for a relaxing lunch and a small siesta. Given the choice myself, I would rather have an enjoyable meal and wine followed by a rest than going work. This also leads to later nights when the evenings are cooler and more pleasant than the typical midday heat.

The workday also ends later. At this time the bars would fill up with patrons looking for beer or Spanish wine with a serving or two of appetizers ('tapas'). Popular tapas includes seafood and the many types of cured ham. We ate at a popular tapas bar in Madrid called 'Maison de Jamon' (House of Ham) which contained (and no exaggeration here) hundreds and hundreds of legs of cured ham hanging from the wall and ceiling. At the deli counter there were many types of jamon for sale - sweet ham, salty ham, spicy ham and ham so cured it emitted a very strong pungent smell.

The streets remain active until the wee hours of the morning, even on week nights. It was common to see young children playing soccer in the street around midnight or hanging with their families near one of the many fountains. Searching for a restaurant often meant waiting until after 9pm until it opened for the evening meal.

The Spanish are passionate about their 'futball' (soccer). On Sunday evening, the main local team - Real Madrid - were playing a match and it was being shown at our local tapas bar. The tension in the bar was tight with a 1-1 score but Real Madrid then scored with a couple minutes to play grab victory and send these grown men into a frenzy of screams, hugs and kisses.

The Spanish way of life - even in the big city, seemed to be about enjoying life at a more relaxed pace and not getting too stressed out. That indeed sounds really good!


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179853380/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179853380/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179853380/tpod.html Fri, 11 Apr 2008 16:08:51 -0400 Sunny and spectacular Spain ! OLE........

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Sevilla, Spain

Sevilla - Home of the Bullfight and Flamenco

Arrival in Sevilla (Seville) from Madrid came after a two and a half hour high speed train ride through the Spanish plains. Spain's interior, including Madrid, rests at a high altitude and on our train ride we passed many mountains, valleys and flat plains.

After checking in to the Hotel Amadeus (yes - very Spanish isn't it!) we immediately headed out exploring. I was very eager to get to our first destination, the bullring.



The Real Maestranza Bullring is one of the oldest bull fighting arenas in Spain. We did not see an actual bullfight (most bullfights are only held on Sundays - adding new meaning to the phrase 'Bloody Sunday') so a tour was the next best thing. The tour gave us the history of bullfighting in Sevilla and its place in Spanish culture followed by a trip to the arena.




Bullfighting is controversial in Spain as public opinion is split on keeping or disbanding it. In spite of this, bullfighting is still very popular with sell-out crowds across Spain. Our guide provided her personal view by noting that she used to attend but has not seen a fight since 1992, when during a fight, a matador was killed by a bull.

Only three bullfighters in Sevilla's long bullfighting history have ever been killed. In case you were wondering, the bull never survives the fight - as the bull is always killed by the matador.

Shortly after our guide pointed out the location of the bullring gate where the dead bull is dragged out, a loud scream echoed from my right. Based on the decibel level of the scream, I expected to see a gored Matador wrapped around the horns of a charging bull. Instead I turned in time to see a retired Danish tourist take a backwards plunge over the bleacher seats. The gentleman was able to compose himself and shake off the dust, however it meant that no one would be carted from the bullring and that the Seville mortality count would remain at three.

On a related note, the guide told another story about one of the three bullfighters ever killed in Sevilla. After the matador's death, a grief stricken friend went on a quest to find the mother of the bull that inflicted the lethal blow. After finding this cow in a farmers field, he killed the animal so that no more of her offspring would take any fellow matadors. The cow's head was then mounted and is currently on display in the bullfighting museum.

My lasting memory of the bullring was one of colour - from the yellow sandy arena floor and the blue sky - and tranquility in the empty arena. It was hard to imagine that only two days prior, the yellow sand was tainted red and surrounded by roars of Ole.



European and Moorish Architecture



Walking around Sevilla allowed us to marvel at the mix of Moorish and European architecture. Sevilla has the largest gothic church in Europe but it is the Islamic architecture in its many plazas that were best. Moorish architecture and design is typified by symbols because the depiction of images of people and animals are forbidden in Islam. As a result, very detailed and intricate colourful, geometric patterns are prevalent on the walls, ceilings and floors of Sevilla's buildings.


Turkish Baths
After a hard day of beating the Seville streets, we decided on some downtime at a Turkish bath near the hotel. Turkish baths are designed so that you progress from a large pool of lukewarm water to a hot bath and finally into an ice cold bath. Somehow this is supposed to make you feel better and invigorate the soul. Well I made it from the lukewarm to hot bath. The cold bath was a different matter as it felt like hypothermic shock as I dipped my ankle in the water. This was enough for me to head back to the warmer water. Well that did not defer Yvonne as she dove into the cold bath, not once, not twice but three time. Brrrr! I still get shivers thinking about it.


Flamenco
We spent a typical - or at least what we believed to be - Spanish evening in Sevilla. First, we headed to a nearby tapas bar. The tapas ordering experience was quite interesting as the Spanish only menu and the non 'ingles' speaking waiter presented an ordering challenge. To get around this we employed a simple approach. Yvonne took the menu and pointed to the first five tapas at the top of the menu. What came was a fine selection of rather strong and well cured hams and cheese. After eating some of our tapas with copious amounts of vino, we headed out to a flamenco show at 'Los Gallos' theatre.

Flamenco, is really an art style of song and dance that originated in Spain and the region south of Sevilla. This version of Flamenco seemed to centre around the soulful, yet painful sounding, song being chanted by one or two singers with support from a fast fingered acoustic guitar player. The star of the show were the senoritas decked out in colourful dresses moving around the stage in slow, precise movements that involved loud 'stomping' and the 'clackety clack' from their castanets.

Overall, Sevilla proved to be a culturally enriching and rewarding experience. I would like to spend another couple days here but we have to move on to our next destination and the small town of Arcos de la Frontera.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179939900/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179939900/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1179939900/tpod.html Fri, 11 Apr 2008 16:01:02 -0400 Sunny and spectacular Spain ! OLE........

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Arcos, Spain

Arcos - Old Town Europe

Leaving from Sevilla was the start of the driving phase of our trip. I was immediately introduced to Spanish driving etiquette as I was cut off by a speeding car shortly after leaving the rental car agency. Welcome to the Spanish Grand Prix!

The scenic driving route was lined by numerous olive groves containing thousands of rows of olive trees. It is easy to see how Spain is the world's largest olive and olive oil producer. In spite of this, the harvesting of olives is still largely manual and involves placing a large tarpaulin under the olive tree followed by whacking the tree with a stick so the olives fall on the tarp for collection.

At the end of our drive, we arrived at a small town called Arcos de la Fontera. If you can envision old town Europe, then Arcos would fit the bill.

Arcos is a small town perched on a mountain top with narrow cobblestone streets, pristine white stone houses and the town church at its highest point. The locals stroll the streets carrying their daily groceries from the produce, butcher and bakery shops. The calm is only ever broken by the occasional moped buzzing by or the animated discussions between neighbours. Kids play football in the streets, older men sit around talking and the few tourists sit in the outdoor cafes soaking up the tranquility and calm. Life seems simple and uncomplicated here.

However, old European towns do present challenges with modern transportation. Upon entering the lower and more modern part of town, the streets were definitely narrow but navigable, so upwards and onwards we continued. The road continued until the midway point of the ascent when we encountered an extreme 'narrowing' of the road as it passed through a narrow archway. After stopping for a minute to size up the situation, we inched into the narrow entrance with barely a foot to spare on each side. Upon reaching the top, we eased the car into the last narrow parking spot and left the car there for the duration of our visit to Arcos.

Our hotel, an old convent, was perched on the side of the mountain. After checking in, one of the true delights of our trip was revealed. Walking out onto our hotel room terrace revealed a wide valley stretching out below with the surrounding hills and mountains as a backdrop. The view was breathtaking - and all from our hotel room.



Our day in Arcos mainly consisted of walking the streets, ducking in doorways to avoid the traffic, purchasing fruit and sweets from the small stores. There was no hustle and bustle of the big city, the pace was relaxing and calm - a nice reward after the interesting drive up the hillside.

Our day came to a wonderful end as we sat on our private terrace under stars of the clear night with a bottle of fine Spanish wine. Life couldn't get much better than this!

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/scotland/1024009200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/scotland/1024009200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/scotland/1024009200/tpod.html Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:27:27 -0400 To Scotland and Ireland.

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Bath, United Kingdom

A day in Roman Bath.

Our early morning started in Paddington Station to catch the train to Bath. After fueling up with some Costa Coffee lattes we jumped on the train for the leisurely drive thru the countryside before arriving in Bath.

Initial impressions revealed a typical English town. We proceeded up past the cathederal to the Roman pumphouse. It was at this point where we came face to face with two thousand year old Roman statues that were guarding the ruins of this old bathhouse.


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Click here to jump to my Bath webpage
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/scotland/984074400/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/scotland/984074400/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/scotland/984074400/tpod.html Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:08:53 -0400 To Scotland and Ireland.

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Aberdeen, United Kingdom

Aberdeen - 1972/2001/2002

Click here check out my Scotland page on my website

My earliest travels to Scotland occurred when I was a wee lad at the tender age of 2 or 3 (I am not quite sure exactly how old I was. Better to ask my mother) - needless to say I barely remember anything from that experience.

Fast forward some thirty years to 2001 and 2002, when, due to my good fortune of having business in London, I had the opportunity to take a side trip over a weekend to make a visit to my aunt in Aberdeen on the north east coast of Scotland.

2001 Introduction to Aberdeen and the Northeast Coast of Scotland
After my auntie picked me up at the Aberdeen airport, we headed back to her flat (apartment for us non-Brits) for a traditional Scottish supper. She had cooked up some mince n' tatties for me to enjoy.

Boy, was that ever good, especially washed down with a Tennants ale.

My 2001 trip to Aberdeen focused on exploring the 'Granite City' (as Aberdeen is known). Most buildings in the centre of Aberdeen are literally made from big slabs of granite. This is evident on those rare moments when the sun peeps out and the granite buildings come ablaze and sparkle from the reflections on the imbedded millions of tiny granite bits.

No visit to Aberdeen would be complete without exploring the cobbled stone streets of old Aberdeen. Old Aberdeen is the heart of the city with its many old buildings such as St Machars Cathedral, King's College and the university area.

The best of Aberdeen includes its amazing beaches. Just imagine miles and miles of wide, golden colored sandy beaches stretching from the harbour entrance all the way down to mouth of the river Dee (or is it Don?).

My final memorable moment of Aberdeen was a leisurely stroll along the Brig O' Balgonie. For the uneducated, 'Brig' is old Scottish Gaelic for 'Bridge.' In fact many words spoken in Scotland today are a carry-over from the time when Scots spoke their own language - for example 'Aye', 'Bairn', 'Loch' are Gaelic in origin). The Brig O' Balgonie is a wonderful, stone bridge where many natives come to for a relaxing, peaceful stroll.


Scottish Country Drive
On my final day in Aberdeen, we took a drive through the countryside. This gave me an appreciation for the Scottish countryside. I saw highland cattle (a couple of cows munching down on hay and oats), the place where Rob Roy MacGregor jumped (allegedly) a waterfall to escape the English Redcoats, and fields of purple heather in the hillsides on our way to the little town of Banchorie.

After touring around Banchorie for an hour or so we stopped for a cuppa (tea) at a restaurant. I was introduced to an artery clogging, butter laden pastry called the 'Aberdeen Rowie.' They are described as a Scottish croissant but let me tell you that they are not light and fluffy like a croissant but heavy and hearty.

A little shopping was then in order to work off some of the rowie that sank to the bottom of my stomach pit. Here I purchased a 'quaich' which is a friendship drinking cup. Some of the history of this cup has its origins from the druids whom drank blood from it as part of their ceremonies. From Banchorie we drove back along the river Don (or was it Dee?) passing golfers, Shetland ponies, more wooly Highland cows and many farms that unfortunately posted signs stating to stay away due to the hoof and mouth disease that was occurring at that time.



2002 - The Whiskey and Castle Trail
Back in the UK in 2002, I made my way back to Aberdeen for another visit to my aunt. Having previously seen the city, the mission this time was to explore the famous Whiskey and Castle trail.

To be in Scotland without having visited a castle would be a shame indeed. To my pleasure I was able to visit a couple during a car trip from Aberdeen to Royal Deeside, up to Speyside (key on whiskey) and back along the coast to Aberdeen while passing thru towns like Banff, Cullen and Peterhead.

The first stop was at the picturesque seaside town of Stonehaven. Stonehaven is what you would imagine a small Scottish fishing town to be. With a circular shaped harbour protected from the cold North Sea by a large sea wall. Boats enter and leave the sheltered harbour through a small opening into the North Sea.



Stonehaven has all the requisite Scottish charm with its harbourside homes, local pub, restaurant, ice cream shop and few small shops. The only downside was the brisk cold northerly wind that whipped of the North Sea. This ensured a brisk walk around town. Once final fact about Stonehaven is that it even appeared on an episode of The Amazing Race.

Just outside Stonehaven is Dunnotar Castle. To get to the castle involved quite a hike down a steep incline and then up a big hill to where Dunnotar Castle is perched on a rocky hill that cuts into the North Sea. Evidently the steep cliffs provided excellent defense and a great workout to the castle's residents.

Dunnotar Castle is mainly in ruins today but remains an excellent place to explore. The Mel Gibson version of Hamlet was partly filmed here.

Leaving from Dunnotar we headed inland towards Royal Deeside in search of Fyvie Castle. Before hitting Fyvie Castle we stopped at the Brig o Feugh where the salmon run during their annual upstream pilgrimage. There were no salmon at this time of the year but the quick stop was nice none the less.

Upon arriving at the baronial Fyvie Castle we promptly did the castle tour. Fyvie Castle is run by the Scottish Heritage Trust. The Trust takes ownership of castles of Scottish historical importance from families that can no longer maintain these costly buildings.

This was the first real castle (complete with paintings, fighting armor, furnishings etc) I had ever been in and I was not disappointed. Fyvie Castle had all the expected castle regalia such as big axes and swords on the walls next to the shiny metal knight suits, there were lots of paintings/art and many animal heads mounted on the walls. There was even a huge, stuffed polar bear that one of the castle's owners had shot on an arctic hunting expedition.

After a quick tour of the grounds and a few photos, the castle/whiskey trail tour continued to Speyside and a stop in Fachobars at the Baxter site. Baxter's is a well known Scottish food company supplying various food products to the UK - in fact you can even buy Baxter's soups here in Canada. After a tour of the Baxter's site, a snack of waffles smothered in syrup was had to satisfy the hungry appetite that had developed.

The costal drive back to Aberdeen from Speyside was very scenic as we drove through little towns such as Lossiemouth, Cullen, Fraserburgh and Peterhead. The highlights included the arched Romanesque aqueduct in Cullen and the peaceful harbour with an old three masted schooner in Buckie.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/12/1202415180/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/12/1202415180/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/12/1202415180/tpod.html Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:14:39 -0500 Silicon Valley and San Fran revisited!

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Las Vegas, Nevada, United States

Vegas - (baby!)
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/castles_beer-06/1146932220/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/castles_beer-06/1146932220/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/castles_beer-06/1146932220/tpod.html Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:31:39 -0500 HRADY A PIVO! __________________________ CASTLES AND BEER!! Adventures in Edinburgh and Prague with England tossed-in for a balanced beer diet.

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Prague, Czech Republic

Prague, Czech Republic

Click here to view my pictures of Prague



People often visit Prague for the opera and music of Mozart; some include it as a stop on a larger European vacation, while others come to explore their ancestory. For me I had no single reason to visit Prague except to say that while researching vacation destinations, I was immediately drawn to Prague. I am not sure if it was because I had heard so many good things about the city or had seen several Hollywood movies that were filmed there (Mission Impossible, XXX among others). Rather the thought of visiting a non-English speaking foreign city, with great beer and centuries of preserved architecture - as the city escaped significant bombing during WWII - was appealing.

It would choose to be an amazing and wise choice.

Welcome to Praha

Upon arrival at Ruzyne Airport, I felt like I had entered communist Czechoslovakia while clearing Czech customs. I was greeted by an older, stern looking Czech border agent where instead of "Dobrý večer!" (Good Evening!) I received a blank stare as my passport was handed back to me in silence. After this "welcome" I would thankfully receive an immediate dose of Czech hospitality as I was met cheerfully by Jan, owner of the B&B I was staying at, in the airport terminal for the drive into Prague. Jan was great as he gave me a quick history lesson and noted the sights and historical points of interest during our drive. After our arrival at Guest House Lida (the B&B named after his mother) he sat me down and made sure I was ready to tour Prague the next morning. He provided me with a transport pass, an entry card to most of the key sights, arranged for a morning bus tour and highlighted all the key tourist areas on a map of Prague. What great hospitality and service! You certainly wouldn't get this at any hotel.



Golden Prague

As I would find out the next day, Prague is intoxicating! I do not mean from the copius consumption of wonderful, inexpensive Czech pivo (beer). My overdose on Prague after my first day of touring would leave my head spinning, trying to process everything I had experienced - it took me a while to relax and fall asleep that night.

Prague, often referred to as "Golden Prague", contains a rich, diverse mix of architecture, parks, monuments, castles and museums. It is possible to experience many different things while visiting Prague but my three day journey would only realistically allow me to sample some of what Prague has to offer.

My favourite highlights of Prague were visiting the Charles Bridge - by day and night; wandering around the winding streets; and visiting the countless historical treasures in abundance.

The Charles Bridge, once you look past the endless stream of tourists, is a small reflection on Prague itself. The bridge - known as Karlov most to the locals - is the oldest bridge in Prague at approximately 650 years old. The most stunning aspect of Charles Bridge is the approximately 30 stone statues that line both sides of the bridge. These statues venerate various saints important to the Czech people (St Vitus, St Wenceslas among others) and each one has a unique story to tell. For example it is the custom to touch the statue of St. John of Nepomuk (see picture) as it will bring good fortune and ensure your successful return to Prague.

_________________Images of The Charles Bridge__________________


Sunset over the Charles Bridge






The bridge breathes a life of its own. During the day, the bridge is lined with vendors selling bohemian glassware, jewelery and other traditional arts. Musicians ranging from the One-Man Band (a guy with numerous musical instruments attached to himself) to The Bridge Band provide light entertainment for the crowds. However, after the sun goes down, a dull yellow glow eminating from the streetlamps cast shadows of the statue's saintly poses and many crucifixes to transform the bridge into an enchanting experience.


Prague Walkabout

Even with a pass for the efficient, always on time transport system - a leftover from the Communist era - I navigated Prague mainly by foot.

Every street contains eye popping, neck straining sights - you could spend all your time just walking around without even entering any of the many castles, museums and beer gardens. To put this in perspective, if Canada had just one of these magnificant buildings, it would be deemed a national treasure - in Prague there are literally hundreds and line the main streets and squares.

This is really the only way to see Prague and explore the streets which seem to lead from one market square to another. I really enjoyed Staromìstské námìstí (Old Town Square) where I climbed the old town tower to amazing arieal views of the many spires and domed rooftops of Prague. From here, one can see the entire old town square - which incidentally is where the new Coke commercial showing people moving from a bottle shape into the glass was filmed. The main attraction of the old town square is the Astronomical Clock. This ornate clock creates real excitement at the top of each hour when the square fills with hundreds of spectators to view the 'twelve apostles' (twelve small statues, one each for the twelve apostles) walk out and pose for the gallery below.



Down in the square itself, you can just hang out and people watch in the Old Town Square. All you need to do is grab one of those sweet tasting Czech rolled pastry treats from the vendor, pick a seat on a bench/fountain's edge to watch the stream of locals and tourists moving to and from within the square. One point to note is that there are proper toilets located in the basement of the Old Town Tower where it costs a couple kC (you pay an elderly lady at a small window leading into the bathroom) to visit and use the facilities.



What I found really interesting while walking around was the convergence of Eastern and Western cultures. While there is undoubtly a clear eastern European flavour about Prague, there are instances where the bridge between the east and west is blurred. For example on my first morning in Prague I exited the subway metro line to the buzz of a traditional marketplace with the faint sound of music in the background. I was excited to hear some traditional music so I hustled to the source only to realize that the name of the band was the 'Czech Dixie Band' whom were playing southern dixie. I was a bit upset at first but then came to appreciate the Czech 'soul' being put into the music. A real treat indeed!

Exploring the marketplaces is interesting as they contain traditional Czech foods and wares. While walking around in one market, I snacked on traditional spa wafers and viewed such 'oddities' like wild boar skins, stringed marionnettes (which are big here) and endless lines of beer steins and those wooden, hand painted stacking dolls.


Jewish Prague
On my second day in Prague I headed early to Josefev - the Jewish Quarter of Prague. This area was originally the ghetto where early kings forced the Jewish community to live in tight quarters. The close proximity is highlighted when I walked in the Jewish Cemetry where thousands and thousands of headstones (12,000 approximately) compete for each inch of space. The early morning sun peeping over the nearby buildings and trees only added to the sombre mood.

The amazing thing about the cemetry is that the headstones only reveal part of the story. Much in the same manner as visitors to Newfoundland marvel at icebergs, what can be seen by the naked eye is not the full exent of the wonder. While some twelve thousand grave markers exist, there are in fact over one hundred thousand graves here. It was common to stack graves one on top the other - in some places the plots are twelve graves deep.




The troubles for the Jewish people did not unfortunately end with the various Czech kings. During WWII, the ghetto was a holding area before transport to Terezín - a Nazi concentration camp outside Prague. There was an exhibition in the Pinkas Synagogue of children's drawings that disturbingly depicted the sequence of events leading from Prague to the concentration camp. The pictures start off with colorful, happy drawings while in Prague (as this was thought to be a temporary thing - a sort of adventure for the children) and gradually turn darker as the events leading upto and within Terezín are presented from the eyes of the children.

Having grown up in Canada, the Second World War and these terrible events never seemed totally real. These drawings started to stir a sadness and sense of shock that only increased as I entered the next room containing a memorial to the victims. The memorial was the interior of the Synagogue where all the walls contained the names of over seventy five thousand Jewish Czech people that died at the hands of the Nazis. In one section of the wall I started to read the long line of names such as Josef, David, Jiri etc until I reached the end and saw the family surname. All these names I had just read were from the same family! It was at this point when the magnitude of it all struck me.


Czech People and Language
Prague is a very tourist friendly city to visit, especially if you only speak English as I found that the younger generation would speak very good English. Jan told me that English is taught in school as a second language - even his own children speak it very fluently.

While visiting the souvenir stores, the store clerks are eager to speak to you and inquire where you were from. Older Czechs, whom seem to work mainly in the museums and major attractions, while not having as clear understanding of English, always had a big smile and were polite. I must admit there was one exception at the Museum of Music when I dared to attempt to take a photo and an elderly lady came to me waving her finger and saying 'Ticketa Photo" or something similar. I had no idea what she meant so I stopped taking pictures. I later realized you needed to by a pass that permitted you to take photos.

The only time I encountered a language barrier was at a little restaurant near the Staroparen Brewery where the waitress only spoke Czech and the menu board was written totally in Czech. I was about to dig through my translation book (to see what chicken was in Czech) when I heard that familiar sound of 'goulash' and I immediately said "gulás prosim" followed by "pivo." We both sighed with relief and I sat down to enjoy my pivo while I waited for my lunch. Crisis adverted!


Czech Beer and Food
The beer, oh that wonderful Czech beer; in fact Pilsner beer was invented by the Czechs. Pilsner style beer served in North America pales in comparison to the version flowing from the taps in Prague. The Czech people are so proud of their beer heritage - a point immediately pointed out on the bus tour when I was informed that, per capita, the Czech people drink the most beer in the world.

A pint of Czech beer will set you back anywhere from 50 cents to $1.50 Canadian. Yes, you heard me - it was cheaper than buying bottled water! I had arrived in beer heaven! Great beer at low prices - there must be a catch. It was explained to me that the Czech people take great pride in beer and it is brewed primarily for the enjoyment of the people, not solely for making money. Labatts and Molson please take note!

I was a bit worried about eating in the Czech Republic. Not because of the language barrier and the possibility of ordering cow's eyes or something even worse but the guidebooks described Czech food as, light on quality and heavy on quantity. However, to my great delight, all the traditional Czech food I sampled was excellent and really reasonably priced. A typical supper including beer, main course, dessert (plus taxes and tip) only cost about $15 Canadian and considering I just came from England where the same meal would cost four times that!


My favourite eating place was a restaurant overlooking the Vlatava River. It had the best up close view of the Charles Bridge with Prague Castle hovering in the background. It was here that I chose to relax and spend my last free moments in Prague before heading to the airport. A great place to chill out and feel the vibe of Prague, enjoy great beer and food and view wonderful scenery - I think I have found the essence of Czech life and this beautiful city.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/castles_beer-06/1146618000/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/castles_beer-06/1146618000/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/castles_beer-06/1146618000/tpod.html Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:38:21 -0400 HRADY A PIVO! __________________________ CASTLES AND BEER!! Adventures in Edinburgh and Prague with England tossed-in for a balanced beer diet.

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Derby, United Kingdom

THE ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE

Click here to view my pics from Derbyshire and the Peak District

Countless movies and TV shows depict life in the English countryside as consisting of gentle, rolling hillside farms dotted with farm animals. All Englishmen and women live in villages where one can step out the front door and head down the street to the local pub to grab a pint of beer.

I did not think that English countryside life could really be that simple and tranquil. However, it would not take long during my recent visit to the Derbyshire village of Castle Donnington to discover that, for the most part, all this was true.

My vacation at my aunt's home in central England would be the perfect launching pad for visiting the English countryside of Derbyshire and the Peak District. From here, I would hike, bike, drive and drink (moderately) my way through the many sights.


Walking and Biking

Hiking (or walking to the locals) is a huge thing in England. Footpaths seem to be everywhere and often cross farmer's fields to link one village to another. Tony Blair passed a law that opened up the countryside and provided right-of-way access to farmer's fields and other private lands. Helped by this initiative, the countryside now contains a network of footpaths that can take you from one coast to the other.

The English do love their country walks, as witnessed by a two-week walking festival in the Peak District that coincided during my visit. My aunt did offer to sign me up for a morning walk at a nearby abbey. However, upon inquiry, I leaned that the walk started in the pre-dawn (at 4am) so that the walkers could listen to the morning birds sing. Unfortunately, I lacked the desire to hear the garble of morning doves and the like so I politely declined and decided to stick to midday walks.

An unseasonably sunny day (by English standards) greeted me on my first full day in England. I laced up my hiking shoes and started out on an afternoon walk from Castle Donnington to a couple of nearby villages. My walk led me along the road to the village of Hemington where I encountered a chap cleaning the windows of a traditional thatched house. He stopped to say hello and realizing from my accent asked me if I needed directions. After stating that I was out for a country walk, he kindy suggested an alternative, more scenic route to get to the next village. He suggested I turn back 100 metres, go through the clatter gate (which I would later figure out was a metal swing gate that 'clattered' as it closed) and over the hillside to Lockington. His only warning was to look out for the bulls at the bottom of the hill and to run if they started to stare and grunt loudly.

This recommendation proved rewarding as my walk took me over a farmers pasture, past the gentle bulls (whom paid no attention to me) and into Lockington. On my return, I 'stumbled' upon the Jolly Sailor pub where a pint of the finest bitter was consumed. A fitting reward for my fine afternoon walk!


Church ruins in Hemington

Feeling more adventourous a few days later, I decided to bike to the Peak District. After borrowing a bike from my aunt's friend, I boarded the train at Derby for the half-hour ride to Matlock. Exiting the ting station at Matlock, I headed towards Bakewell and the home of the famous Bakewell Pudding.

Enroute, I encountered many wonderful sights. I had to stop every mile or so and get off my bike to gaze in wonderment at the beautiful countryside before me.





After stopping at Haddon Hall to view an old manor with amazing gardens I stopped at a pub in the town of Bakewell for some pudding topped with custard (I also had a pint of bitter). I would later realize that consuming beer halfway through my bike ride might not have been the best idea as the alcohol combined with the blazing sunshine rareity in England) left me a little dehydrated and snoozy on the ride back.


The Peak District - Pride and Prejudice Country

Derbyshire and the Peak District have served to inspire many famous novels including Jane Austen's Pride and Prejudice. My bike ride a few days earlier gave me a sense of this but it would be an afternoon drive into the heart of the Peak District and Chatsworth House that would reveal what that inspiration was.

Chatsworth has to be one of the most beautiful estates in all of England (granted this is the only one I visited and I am sure the Queen has a property or two that are nicer). Some scenes from the latest Pride and Prejudice movie were filmed within Chatsworth House. The gardens and fountains, statue gallery and main entrance all depicted Mr Darcey's mansion in the movie. So go rent the movie and you will see the splendor of this mansion.






The Peak District backdrop to Chatsworth is what really makes this place a real gem. Yes, the multitude of gardens, water fountains and walking paths are wonderful but the surrounding Peak District hills are it crowning jewel.

As I was sitting on a bench after a few hours of visiting, I gazed across and had to shake my head twice as the scene before me did not look real. It seemed just too perfect like a classical English countryside painting. Stoned walls divided the green rolling hills with its rows of trees on the hilltops, where cattle and herds of sheep roamed freely. What a perfect ending to my visit in the Peak District.




English Village Life

My aunt lives on a street called The Biggin, so named, as it was the original beginning of the village of Castle Donnington. A two minute walk down the hill from The Biggin is the street where the main conveniences of Castle Donnington - the Post Office, Fish and Chip shop, corner store, bakery, Indian take-away (take out) etc. - are located. Oh, I almost forgot to mention that the nearest local pub is a further 30-second stumble down the hill. The stores are owned by local folk where other local folk came into shop and chat. The whole scene reminded me a bit of Coronation Street but much more civilized.

After spending a week here, I came to appreciate the proximity of these services and the accompanying lifestyle. I made good use of the 'main street' either by having take-away food from the fish and chippie, mailing postcards at the postal office or enjoying a pint at the local. I could get used to this relaxed village lifestyle. Unfortunately, I was heading back soon to North America and the big box store culture with its impersonal Good Day and Please Come Again greetings. I would certainly miss this easygoing lifestyle in the English countryside.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1180026360/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1180026360/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/flyin_bayman/espagne-may_07/1180026360/tpod.html Wed, 29 Aug 2007 08:41:02 -0400 Sunny and spectacular Spain ! OLE........

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Granada, Spain

Our departure from Arcos meant slowly navigating down the steep and narrow incline at 10 mph until we reached the main road for Granada and the Alhambra.

The American writer, Washington Irving (same author of 'Sleepy Hallow'), while ambassador to Spain, wrote a book entitled 'Tales of the Alhambra' that described his journey to Granada and visit to a great Moorish palace called The Alhambra. We would also on our journey to Granada have a few tales of our own.

Our first tale almost meant missing our designated time slot to visit the Alhambra. Everything was proceeding to plan until we hit central Granada. We had precise hotel navigation instructions which normally is a good thing. However, upon entering the city of Granada we quickly realized that there were no signs telling us what street we were on. After a hour of looping around and stopping for instructions, we called the hotel to get clear instructions. After a right turn, a left turn and a right turn onto a narrow cobblestone road we finally spotted our hotel. There was no way that any sane foreigner would be able to find this place! We also later learned that Granada streets undergo frequent name changes - hence a reason for no street names being posted! Urgh.

We made it to the Alhambra for our predetermined entrance time (as only a limited number of people are admitted each hour). The earlier navigation troubles soon were forgotten as we moved through the palace.

While Sevilla has beautiful Moorish architecture, the Alhambra is the crown jewel. Its scale and grandeur was unbelievable with its intricate, inlaid wooden panels and wall to wall ceramic tiling. Yvonne walked around with a big smile while constantly gazing at the archways and stucco ceilings. Topped with its gardens and water features, the Alhambra is an oasis and a wonder of the world.

Our tour was proceeding nicely until the weather changed. It started with a light rain, then it poured followed by a torrential dump and finally pebble sized hail that covered the courtyard we were in. 20 minutes later, the thunder and lightening passed and the sun came out for the remainder of the day as we strolled through the remaining gardens and ruins.

The next morning we decided to get a jump on the morning traffic as we wanted to avoid repeating our driving adventure from the previous day. So off I went to pick up the car at the garage just down the street.

Things were going well, until...............................
......
...
..
.
'Pssssssst'..... and the our early departure plans instantly were deflated. Oh no, we had a flat tire! Not the best way to start the two hour drive to the Mediterranean Sea coast. After a few minutes of letting some steam release and uttering of some choice words, I rolled up my sleeves and replaced the flat.

Finally, we were off and out of Granada - it certainly was a memorable visit both for its sights and the car tales.

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