TravelStream™ news feed for member fencermatt on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/fencermatt en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Sat, 17 Nov 2007 19:08:13 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1195342500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1195342500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1195342500/tpod.html Sat, 17 Nov 2007 19:08:13 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Seattle, Washington, United States

First off, thank you to all'y'all for your thoughts, prayers and/or notes of concern over the last ten days. Since my last post I have successfully made it back to Seattle--well, more specifically I've made it back to Des Moines, WA (about 20 minutes south of Seattle) where my parents live. My father is in Texas, waiting for the bikes to get shipped back to the USA. I now have several weeks of sitting on a couch healing to look forward to.

So, having a broken leg sucks, but I just can't bring myself to be upset or irritated by it. In fact, I feel incredibly lucky. Not only am I lucky that so many people stepped up out of nowhere to help me when I needed help, but I am very lucky to have a place I can return to, where I have family that is ready and willing to put up with me while I wait for my leg to heal.

Enough of the update stuff, though, now I have a bald-faced appeal for charity. Not for me, but for the Isle de Ometepe--the place where I wrecked and where the people were unbelievably helpful when I needed them most. The Bainbridge-Ometepe Sister Island Association is an organization based out of Bainbridge Island, WA that is dedicated to promoting development on the island. If it weren't for this organization, Bridgette the ER doctor would not have been on the island, nor would Rosalinda received the training she needed to provide me with the first-aid treatment I got.
If any of you are looking for an organization to support this holiday season, please consider BOSIA. Not only do they accept donations but they also sell coffee grown on Ometepe to raise funds (at $8/pound it's actually very reasonably priced for Fair Trade organic coffee).

And, with that, I hearby bring this travelblog to a close. If any of y'all want to keep further tabs on what's going on with me please visit my myspace page or livejournal blog.

Thank you all very much for reading,

Matt Pearsall
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194721680/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194721680/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194721680/tpod.html Sat, 17 Nov 2007 18:32:43 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Managua, Nicaragua

Three days ago, on the far side of the Isle of Ometepe, in the middle
of Lake Nicaragua in Nicaragua I dumped my bike on a bad dirt road and
snapped my leg. Broke it in two places. Thus began the penultimate
adventure of this abreviated motorcycle trip.

So, There I was,
screaming in pain on the side of this road very far from anywhere. My
screams attracted a small crowd of locals (where did they come from?)
but for the better part of an hour it was them staring, me alternating
between screaming and laughing and my Dad doing a damn good job of
being calm in the middle of all of this. All we knew was that an
ambulance was on its way. After the better part of an hour a local
woman, Rosalinda, trained in first aid shows up and gets my foot (which
at this time was pointing in a very strange direction) bandaged up in
an ace bandage and get me calms down. The screaming I did during this
makes the previous screaming pale in comparison. A while later, out of
the blue, Bridgette appears. Who is Bridgette? She is a volunteer on
Ometepe training the local medical people on the island. She's also an
American emergency medicine doctor and probably an angel sent down to
me at just this point to help. She fashioned a splint out of two ace
bandages and a carboard box (more screaming here) and got me onto the
ambulance, which turned out to be the pickup truck owned by the hotel
my Dad and I were staying at.

It took the pickup almost two
hours to reach me (this was a really really really bad road) and
another two hours to get me to ferry to the mainland (insert more
screaming). Then I had to move to the ferry and from the ferry to
another pickup which took me to the local public hospital in Riva (yet
more screaming, but not so loud at this point). Total time from
accident to hospital-6.5 hours with nothing but 4 Aleve for the pain.

So,
there I am in the public hospital in Riva. Not a single person spoke
English, and my Spanish is not up to dealing with hospital
emergencies. They took x-rays (screaming here) and they set me in a
real splint (final bout of screaming here, thank God). Then they put
me in a public ward with five other orthopedic patients, in a bed with
no sheets, no pillows, and with nothing to eat. The ward did have
cockroaches, mosquitoes, a dog wandering around and various people in
various levels of pain and discomfort. I could not move. Thus
commenced one of the less wonderful nights of my life. From what I
could gather from the doctor, I was going to be here for 4-10 days and
then they'd operate on my leg.

Not bloody likely

I give
great credit to those in the public health system here in Nicaragua,
they're doing their best and not charging a penny for it, but this is
the moment I chose to exersize my right as a VISA carrying American to
get the best care money can buy. Thanks to the heroic efforts of my
father, who between buying me pillows and food and clothing managed to
get ahold of my insurance (who didn't help) and the American Embassy
(which helped a lot) and got me packed off to the best hospital in
Nicaragua to see the best Orthopedic Surgeon in Nicaragua. I had to
take a taxi from Riva to Managua, but I got there. I knew imediately
from all the drug-company advertising that I'd arrived at a modern
hospital and in less than two hours the doctor had me in a cast and
more-or-less ready to travel.

I spent another day in that
hospital, in my own comfortable room with English TV and food, under
observation since I slammed my head into the ground pretty hard in the
crash. If I hadn't had a helmet, I'd be dead, as it is I'm just fine.
Meanwhile my amazing Father was running all over the place, getting the
motorcycles off of the island and organizing their transport to Managua
so that they can be shipped home to the USA. Once they are shipped, he
will see to getting them to Seattle while I live the life of an invalid.

Right
now I am at the house of a man named Salvadore here in Managua. He's a
great guy who just finished a 12 month motorcycle trip of his own, who
picked me up from the hospital, who's helping my Dad get the bikes
shipped, and who's opened his house up to us. I have a cast up to my
thigh and, on Tuesday, will be heading back to Seattle for about 8-10
weeks of recuperation.

More to follow soon. All of my phone
numbers (along with everything else I own) are sitting in boxes in
Texas, so don't be offended if I don't call and say hi. If any of
y'all want to say hi, please feel free. After Tuesday I can be reached
at my parents at (206) 283-5610. I also have a Nicaraguan cell phone
now, but that won't be of much use.

More updates (and PICTURES! I know you all want to see the photos of my foot pointing 45 degrees off-center;) when I have more to say.

Matt
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194723540/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194723540/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194723540/tpod.html Sat, 10 Nov 2007 14:42:55 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Didn´t Stop, Honduras

Didn´t Stop. Didn´t want to.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193942160/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193942160/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193942160/tpod.html Sat, 10 Nov 2007 14:37:56 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Playa El Zonte, El Salvador

Hardcore surfer beach. I, not being a hardcore surfer, felt a bit out of place. Helluva sunset, though.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194028500/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194028500/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194028500/tpod.html Sat, 10 Nov 2007 14:35:58 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Somoto, Nicaragua

dfassdf
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194723060/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194723060/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194723060/tpod.html Sat, 10 Nov 2007 14:35:16 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Santo Domingo, Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

Ometepe
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194114780/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194114780/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194114780/tpod.html Sat, 10 Nov 2007 14:34:33 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Granada, Nicaragua

Nice town. Kind of a cheaper, smaller, hotter and muggier (both weather and crimewise) version of Antigua.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194463440/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194463440/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1194463440/tpod.html Sat, 10 Nov 2007 14:31:12 -0500 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Rivas, Nicaragua

Boy, I hate to rag on a rural, 3rd world public hospital. They're doing the best they can with what they've got free of charge for some of the poorest people in the world. From my couch back in the USA I applaud their efforts. From an uncomfortable, pillowless bed inside a rural, 3rd world public hospital, though, I gotta confess my only reaction was:

GET ME OUTA HERE!!!!!!!!

Luckily, as a credit card wielding American with insurance that was doable. The only other thing I can say about Riva is that the attendants at the gas station in town are very nice and let you pump your own gas.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193877120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193877120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193877120/tpod.html Wed, 31 Oct 2007 20:54:02 -0400 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

Ever have one of those days that just come out of nowhere and smack you down. Today is one of those days. You hever see the fist of the invisible troll as he punches you in the back of the head. To most of you that is meaningless, but to those of you who understand, that was today. Let me begin.

So today my Dad and I were to leave for El Salvador, about 90 miles away. Easy day, right? Well, first off, my bike has been sitting for 11 days and somehow the battery got drained over that time. So, before we could leave we had to strip down my bike to get to the battery and jump-start it. Frustrating, but not a huge deal. We were on the road only about 1/2 an hour late.

BUT THAT'S NOT ALL

We get about 40 miles down the road and I realize I left my money belt--with my passport, motorcycle documents, credit cards and about $250 cash--sitting on the bed at the hostel. Oh fuck does not begin to describe my feelings. So we turn around and head back to Antigua. We should still be able to do the border crossing today, even with this setback.

BUT THAT'S NOT ALL

I get us totally lost getting back to Antigua and we end up on a toll road to get back on track. While on the toll road we stop for gas and I (stupidly) shut off my bike. The battery is still dead and we need to jump-start it again in the parking lot. Major suck.

BUT THAT'S NOT ALL

The highway back to Antigua, so pretty and peaceful in the morning, is now the route for one of Central America's biggest bicycle races. The Tour de France of Guatemala. Dozens of racers, thousands of cheering fans and a cluster-fuck of traffic. What took 45 minutes in the morning took us over two hours returning as we dodged cyclists, support vehicles, police cars and lots of fans crowding the route. Add in another stall and jump-start three blocks from the hostel and you're starting to get the picture. At least it wasn't raining. Hell, at least the hostel had my money belt (with all its contents) and two beds, since we had given up on getting into El Salvador today.

BUT THAT'S NOT ALL

I stripped down my bike and pulled the battery to charge it (luckily I'm carrying a mini-charger). I put it on to charge and left for lunch and BEER. Came back two hours later to discover that the battery was not holding a charge, it was truly and completely dead. Thus ensused a long quest to buy a replacement battery on the afternoon before a national holiday. We eventually found the battery only to discover that it didn't come with acid. Thus ensued a long quest to buy battery acid on the afternoon before a national holiday. Amazingly, everything worked out.

So that's today. Happy Halloween! I must admit that I am still stunned at all that went wrong and that somehow it all seems to have worked out. That plus I think Dad and I probably came in at least 10th in the cycle race (look for us on the evening news;). I am utterly slack-jawed and require a lot of beer and water before I will feel normal-ish again.

]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193792640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193792640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/fencermatt/3wheels/1193792640/tpod.html Tue, 30 Oct 2007 23:47:20 -0400 Two Wheels Heading South. Matt's South American Motorcycle Adventure

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Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

Hello once again from your trusty local intrepid traveller, boldly exploring the touristy towns and backpacker ghettos of the world so that you don't have to!

Yes, it's true. I admit to the fact that, at least here in Guatemala, I have remained firmly on the beaten path. No daring adventures to tiny towns down dirt tracks. Nothing but the Pan-American Highway and what major tourist destinations are easily accessable from there. That being said, the beaten path of touristdom in Guatemala is absolutely fantastic. I have thoroughly enjoyed the 3+ weeks I've spent here. Haven't done much riding on the bikes, but what riding I've done has been breathtaking. Heck, the whole country is breathtaking. Mist-shrouded volcanoes everywhere, several of which are actively spewing forth lava (I climbed one of those volcanoes. Stood about three feet away from molten lava oozing out of the side of the mountain. It's really hot, I melted my shoes. If it weren't for the stray dogs living there I would've thought I was on another planet instead of Central America). And all three of the towns I've stayed in are just gorgeous, and all for very different reasons.
Antigua--the capitol of Central America until it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1783(?) and then re-destroyed several more times--is an example of what a tourist trap should be. First off, the town itself is very pretty, with low pastel buildings surrounding at least a dozen giant picturesquely destroyed buildings from the 1700s. Then, surround it with three giant volcanoes (hence the earthquakes). Add to that a whole bunch of pleasant and pretty restaurants, cafes and bars and throw a very nice hostel on top and you've got a recipe for 8 days of blissful decadence.
Panajachel--A town on the shores of beautiful Lake Atitlan. I'm pretty sure Lake Atitlan is beautiful, everyone else says it is. It was pouring rain the whole time we were there, though, so I couldn't say for myself. Pana itself, however, was very interesting for a completely unexpected reason. It was my chance to take a peak into the world of the American ex-pat, of which there is a thriving community in the town. A very odd community, but very attractive in many ways. I can easily see how people end up whiling away weeks/months/years in a beautiful place like this. I could easily see it happening to me.
Flores--Flores is a beautiful town of hotels restaurants and travel agents . . . oh, and one Church, set on a little island in a beautiful lake. No mountains here, this is up near the Yucatan, deep in what used to be (and still is in spots) jungle. The town and the surrounding countryside is idyllic. It certainly helped that the weather was perfect, and the presence of Tikal nearby sure didn't hurt anything.

Tikal? What is this Tikal that I speak of? It's a giant Mayan city set in the middle of jungle. I know you've all seen at least one shot of it. George Lucas used it for the exterior shots of the Rebel Base in the original Star Wars.


It is indeed big and indeed beautiful, but what I will remember forever is being there as the sun went down. I had the place nearly to myself and as the sun got lower and the light changed it was like being in a dream. You know how the light gets at dusk? All amber/gold and soft? Splash that over some giant Mayan temples, add parrots and foxes and monkeys waking up for a night of doing whatever animals do when they're not looking pretty for tourists and you've got how I spent the evening of the 27th. Very very cool.

But onwards and upwards to new adventures. Tomorrow my Mom flys home--Oh, I forgot to mention, my Mother flew down from Seattle for the last ten days to see Antigua and Tikal with us, it's been like a big family vacation minus my sister (just because she has a job and and family and is 8 months pregnant she didn't come down, hmph)--and my Dad and I hit the road once again. We'll be cruising through El Salvador and Honduras towards Nicaragua, where hopefully I'll get a chance to get in touch with all'y'all again.

Oh, and one last note. Everyone, please say hello to Stan from California, Mike from Panajachel and Masa from Slovenia, the newest lucky people on my travel-spam list.

Take Care,

Matt
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