TravelStream™ news feed for member eurotraveler on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/eurotraveler en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:59:55 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232924820/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232924820/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232924820/tpod.html Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:59:55 -0400 The EuroTraveler

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Florence, Tuscany, Italy

Another profound and wondrous moment in my life was to gaze up at the David, a colossal sculpture of perfection, without question, and beauty! Actually, it's quite humbling to stand before another Michelangelo masterpiece and be moved so spiritually, so intellectually, so artistically. I have waited 18 years since college days of attending art history courses and writing my final paper on this magnificent piece of sculpture, to see David and now, we were just moments away. My heart was pounding!

After our morning walk and introduction tour in Florence, we were on our way to the Accademia Gallery to finally see the David. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by yet, another long queue of tourists that stretched beyond the eye could see. However, as I mentioned in the Uffizi posting, we were on a tour so we already had reservations. I recommend you do the same. So, we went to the other side of the main entrance, a very short queue, and were whisked in shortly thereafter.

We entered the museum and immediately in front of you, at the end of a long hallway flanked by giant unfinished sculptures, more on those later, is the David, rising boldly above the throngs of tourists who are bees to honey around the base of the pedestal. See what I mean? It stands in the Tribunal, a room designed and purpose built specifically to house the statue which up until 1873, stood in the Piazza della Signoria, outside the Palazzo Vecchio. Due to weathering and erosion, the city of Florence moved the David here and in 1910, a replica was placed to stand where David stood for over 300 years.

Of course, I need to digress and provide a little background for those not familiar with its origin. After completing his famous "Pieta" in Rome in 1499, discussed and pictured in a previous posting, Michelangelo completed the David in 1504, age 29, and on September 8th of the same year, it was presented to the city of Florence. From what started out as a 18 foot block of marble cast aside due to another sculptor who thought he damaged the stone beyond repair, Michelangelo saw the piece as an opportunity to free his David from his prison of stone. The statue was originally intended to be one of twelve Old Testament sculptures to sit atop the Duomo or Santa Maria del Fiore however, the final resting place would be outside the Palazzo Vecchio and the location was decided upon by a committee that included Leonardo Da Vinci and Sandro Botticelli. Can you imagine being surrounded by of the proliferation of creative genius in Florence at this time?

Like many of the sights I have seen throughout my travels thus far, this one took my breath away yet again. The colossal statue is poised on a giant pedestal and rises 17 feet. To see the chiseled body rendered in such beauty, such unbelievably exquisite and realistic detail is beyond words. Michelangelo captures the moment when David first lays eyes on his foe and with mounting tension in his outstretched neck, he reaches back with his slingshot to slay the mighty Goliath. Look carefully at the musculature, the veins in the arms and hands, the overall grace of his physique. Truly, not another sculpture before or after, has ever surpassed the David. Take a look. It's inconceivable that this was once thought a useless piece of marble.

This statue is actually one of three David's that reside in Florence. There is the replica in the Piazza della Signoria that I mentioned above and the other stands high atop the hills in Oltrarno, other side of the Arno, in the Piazzale Michelangelo. Check it out.

Before we arrived at the David, we had to pass through the hallway contained the "unfinished" sculptures that Michelangelo completed in the latter part of his life. Paling in comparison, but nonetheless not be overlooked, these "Prisoners" or "Slaves" or "non-finito" sculptures were originally intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II. However, some scholars believe that Michelangelo intended to leave them unfinished and today, it's debated to the point of exhaustion. In either case, you really get a sense of the extraordinary amount of work that goes into sculpting. If you look closely at these, you can see the marks left by various sculpting tools that after time, "freed these prisoners from their tombs" of marble as Michelangelo often liked to put it. After Michelangelo's death, the statues were given to Cosimo I who placed them in the Boboli Gardens at Pitti Palace, where they stood until 1909.

Other paintings and sculptures are here as well including a Pieta previously thought to have been carved by Michelangelo but later discovered to be the work of one of his students. How disappointing. Remember, leave your cameras back in your villa, no pics allowed. I had to borrow these from a few websites. And, most importantly, make your reservations for tickets before you leave home!

After an amazing journey through time once again, my stomach in the present was getting very hungry and it was time for one of my favorite lunches in Italy, a Caprese sandwich with spinach, tomato and mozzarella between two slices of focaccia bread and warmed in the oven. So very yummy. After lunch, it was time to do some shopping at the Ponte Vecchio and nearby shops where I purchased a new gold earring and on the way back to the Monna Lisa for our afternoon Cappuccino, I stopped in a real "mom and pop" store to purchase a tanned leather briefcase, something I have wanted for ages! Two items and too much money spent. Oh well, it's vacation and who cares about money.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1235792340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1235792340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1235792340/tpod.html Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:56:58 -0500 The EuroTraveler

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Florence, Tuscany, Italy

One can't help feeling humbled and quite frankly, dwarfed as you stand beside Florence's Duomo with Brunelleschi's dome rising boldly to the heavens or next to Giotto's campanile standing alongside since 1333. Imagine for a moment, what life was like before the Duomo when an ancient Christian basilica stood on these grounds in the late 4th century when this colony of Rome, known as Florentia, was bustling with Roman denizens? Come with me to explore this Piazza del Duomo which has been the religious center of Florence for over 1600 years and we'll examine the monuments that stood the test of time, those that didn't and we'll uncover the mysteries that lie beneath. Did you know that one of these edifices still holds the world record for the largest brick and mortar dome that has come to define and dominate the skyline of this Renaissance City of Florence? Care to have a guess?

Our journey started after our fabulous half-day tour in Fiesole, when en-route to our hotel, we toured the magnificent and cavernous cathedral of Florence, Santa Maria del Fiore or more commonly known as the Duomo. Santa Maria del Fiore translated means Saint Mary of the Flower, with the flower being Christ Himself as the fruit of our salvation. Designed by Arnolfo Di Cambio, construction began in 1296 and completed, sans the dome, in 1348. It wasn't until 1436 that Brunelleschi's "dome within a dome" was completed and finally capped off with his lantern 10 years after that. Containing holy relics, the gilt copper ball that adorns the top of the lantern was added in 1471. This marked the end of a construction period that spanned 170 years. Quite an astonishing feat!

Truly a sight to behold in person, this titanic structure stretches 153 meters (502 feet) long, 90 meters (295 feet) at its widest point and 90 meters from floor to the top of the dome. Covered in green and pink marble framed by white marble strips, the façade of this great cathedral wasn't completed in the 15th century, but nearly 400 years later by Emilio De Fabris. Look carefully and you'll see statuary adorning the niches along the sides, Mother Mary enthroned with a flowered scepter over the front door and various mosaics depicting scenes of Christ, St. Mary and St. John the Baptist, local artisans and merchants, and other prominent Florentine figures over the remaining doors. Truly a stunning sight from any angle and the perfect Kodak moment.

To this day, Brunelleschi's dome remains the largest brick dome in the world and no picture of Florence is complete without it. Only the Pantheon in Rome is larger but is composed of concrete so there's no contest. Speaking of contests, back in 1419, the city of Florence conducted one for the best dome design that would top off the basilica's octagonal base. Brunelleschi, a local artist and architect, competed and won against Ghiberti, the artist whom Brunelleschi lost to in an earlier competition for the bronze panels of the "Gates of Paradise", the eastern doors of the Baptistry (my next posting).

The contest specifically called for a dome design that would span 42 meters (140 feet) and could not contain flying buttresses which were shunned by the Italians. With the support of Cosimo de Medici, Brunelleschi presented his idea, a "dome within a dome" design that would not require flying buttresses and amazingly enough, not even scaffolding surrounding the exterior. The concept was to build an internal dome made of lightweight materials which would then provide support for the outer shell construction composed of more weather resistant materials. Overall, this would be the first octagonal dome ever built and because the recipe for concrete had been lost since the age of the Pantheon, Brunelleschi would have to build his dome with bricks and mortar, hence, the explanation for the world record. Today, you can climb the 463 steps and see firsthand, this unique method of construction. Sounds daunting, yes, however, the view of surrounding Florence and Tuscany from high atop the dome, is amazing and definitely worth every huff and puff upon arrival. !

Compared to the highly adorned exterior of the cathedral, the interior is more reserved in its design and features frescos painted by the Florentine masters in the 14th and 15th centuries. Along the walls, you'll discover frescos by Paolo Uccello, Adrean del Castagno, a painting of Dante and his "Divine Comedy" by Domenico di Michelino and sculptural portraits of Giotto and Brunelleschi. Later in the 19th century, busts were added of Arnolfo di Cambio, the original cathedral designer, and Emilio De Fabris, the 19th century exterior designer. Adorning the interior walls of the dome, 295 feet into the air is Vasari's "Last Judgment" which was ordered by Cosimo de Medici. Brace yourself, the painting is 295 feet away and neck strain is inevitable but worth it nonetheless. The artist, Vasari, was mentioned in my previous posting about the Uffizi Gallery and he is the same man who designed the "Vasari Corridor" that stretches from the Uffizi Gallery to the Pitti Palace on the other side of the Arno. I suggest you rent an audio guide for your journey as you tour around the interior of the cathedral and examine the art. It's only three Euros but worth every one.

To our surprise, after our audio tour concluded, we were on our way out the front doors when we noticed a stairway descending to a lower level just inside and to left of the cathedral's front doors, or to the right when you come from the front. This was our gateway and could be yours to the past, to the end of the 4th century and beyond. There was a nominal charge but it was worth it! But what was down here?

Well, after the major renovation of the Duomo in 1966, the remains of an ancient Christian basilica were unearthed just 4 meters below the floor of today's Duomo and were later identified as Santa Reparata, built during the late 4th and early 5th centuries in what was known then as the Roman colony of Florentia. Before construction could begin on today's Duomo, the city of Florence during the 13th century, first had to raze Santa Reparata or most of it because of its state of disrepair after having stood for close to 900 years. The population of Florence was outgrowing the capacity of this ancient place of worship and the city wanted its own cathedral, grander in design than its neighboring city states of Siena and Pisa. Thus, the Duomo was born.

After you descend and pay the admission fee, you enter into this subterranean wonderland. We couldn't believe our eyes and were so amazed that we knew nothing of this place until we arrived. You can walk down the nave to the altar..., examine the mosaic flooring..., columns that used to support the ceiling, ancient frescos still in tact..., tombs...and other fascinating remnants of the ancient structure. In addition, the steps leading your descent are actually the remains of a stairway that lead to the choir in the ancient basilica. It's a fascinating journey into the past that I strongly recommend you take. The diagram below provides some perspective from the present day cathedral to that of Santa Reparata, the smallest footprint. Want to see more of Santa Reparata?

Back outside, there are two remaining buildings of this Piazza del Duomo, the Baptistry and Giotto's Campanile. We will explore these in more detail in my next posting.

For over 1600 years, the site of Santa Maria del Fiore and all that came before it holds wonder and fascination for all who visit. It's a journey of the soul to the past and present. When you plan to go, don't worry about getting there early in the morning when lines are at their longest, wait until the afternoon, providing the cathedral and bell tower remain open, and then visit. The lines may look long but not as long as they are in the morning and they do move quickly. I urge everyone to include this in your itinerary when planning your visit to this Renaissance city.

Ciao from Florence!


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1234675980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1234675980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1234675980/tpod.html Sun, 15 Feb 2009 16:24:47 -0500 The EuroTraveler

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Florence, Tuscany, Italy

Well, it's time to move out of the city centre for a short break from history and into the sun drenched hills of Tuscany. This is our journey to Fiesole, a town that lies just west of Florence beyond Oltrarno, the other side of the Arno. While still in close proximity to Florence and actually only five kilometers away, Fiesole seems like a world away from the historic city centre. You climb high in hills under the Tuscan sun along narrow winding roads framed by the Cyprus trees that have come to define Tuscany and where scenic vistas beckon you forward into this Tuscan way of life. Whether you're bypassing olive groves, expansive vineyards that seem to stretch to the horizon or those classic Italian villas that sprout from the hilltops, every view is a landscape painting waiting for the artist to capture on canvas. Just take a look at this!

This is our story of our "Tastes of Tuscany" tour. Sounds yummy, doesn't it. I simply couldn't refuse when I found it on Italy Tours and it was very reasonable. The half-day tour includes a guided walk through Villa di Maiano, a Renaissance estate once owned by the Pazzi family and it just so happens that this is where "A Room With a View" and "Tea With Mussolini" were both filmed. However, the real highlight of this half-day excursion is the delicious Italian lunch that is served villa-side and includes a variety of antipasto, three delectable pasta dishes, breads, wine of course, and a spectacular view overlooking the hills of Tuscany! And if you're worried about all of those calories, don't, because after lunch, it's time to burn them off; for the tour concludes with a vigorous walk down the Tuscan hills past those scenic landscapes until you reach the town of Fiesole. Upon arrival, you embark on transportation back to Florence. Before we embark, I really should provide a brief history of Villa di Maiano for all you who may not have visited this place. Originally built in the 1400's and once known as "Palagio degli Alessandri", the villa was completely destroyed by a hurricane in 1467 which forced the owner at the time, Bartolomeo degli Alessandri, to sell his family homestead to fund reconstruction. Then, in the early 16th century, the house was occupied by the Sforza family, then the Buonagrazia family and finally in 1546, the Pazzi family bought the estate. You may recall the Pazzi family for their notoriously planned conspiracy to murder Lorenzo de Medici (Lorenzo the Magnificent) and his brother, Guiliano, as they were leaving high mass from the Duomo in Florence. Only part of their plan succeeded, Lorenzo's brother, Guiliano, was indeed murdered and the Pazzi family paid dearly for their mistakes.

Nearly 300 years later, the Tolomei family, wealthy merchants from Siena purchased the villa. Then, it was Sir John Temple Leader from England who occupied the palace and because he wanted to add medieval architectural elements to the estate, he enclosed a central courtyard and constructed the tower you see today that rises through the center of the villa. Take a look. Finally, in 1903, a surgeon from Florence, Teodora Stori and his wife Elisabetta Corsini, purchased the villa. It is said that Elisabetta had such a passion for the historical building that she devoted much of her time and energy on maintainng the place. Presently, her neice, Countess Lucrezia Miara Fulcis dei Principi Corsini, who inherited the estate upon Elisabetta's death, continues to manage the property to this day. If you want to read more and see some spectacular images of the interior rooms, visit Villa di Maiano.

Ok, enough about history and back to the details of the tour. At 10:00am, we met our tour guide, Alice, originally from Australia, at via Sasseti in Florence on the other side of the Duomo from where we were staying at the Monna Lisa. From there, we boarded vans and headed high into the Tuscan hills where we arrived at the magnificent Villa di Maiano and proceeded on our tour of the estate and gardens. We saw rooms of such grandeur and opulence and yes, the famous piano from "A Room With a View" is located just inside the front door. Outside we strolled into the gardens and eventually were lead to a verandah at the edge of the property where we were seated at a large table with all of the other folks who were on tour with us. We were completely surrounded by the most scenic views of the Tuscan hills that seemed to roll on forever. It was simply breathtaking.

Alice, as we found out, was not only an amazing tour guide, she was quite the hostess and wine connoisseur. She introduced us to a variety of Italian wines of which we tasted of course while other servers brought in various bruschettas with prosciutto, tomatoes, parmesan cheese, and more. We all toasted to an amazing day and to the dining experience in which we were all to partake. After the breads, it was on to the antipasto replete with salamis, cheeses, olives, peppers and other delicious Italian fare. Gee are you hungry yet because my mouth is watering just typing all of this. How amazing is this? Here we are, in a 15th century villa high in the hills, eating a fabulous Italian feast and taking in the surrounding beauty of the Tuscan landscape. The sun is warm, the breeze is mild and it's an absolutely perfect day!! Now this is paradise!! But wait, there's more. After the first courses, came three types of pastas dishes with alfredo, marinara and an olive oil sauces, some with chicken, some with prosciutto, and all came with the fresh aroma of garlic wafting in the air. How wonderful. These Italians really know how to cook. We dined and dined until we could eat no more and then wrapped up with espressos and Italian pastries.

After lunch, as I mentioned earlier, we traversed the hills down to the Fiesole town centre where we caught our transportation back to the Duomo.

We said our good-byes, offered a tip to our Alice, and then boarded the bus back to Florence. All transportation, admission, food and wine are included in the price. I really enjoyed this tour for its little bit of history, the tour of the scenic countryside outside Florence and mostly for the delectable lunch. It was perfect in length because by the time we arrived back at the Duomo, it was still early enough in the day to tour the Florence Duomo or Santa Maria del Fiore....my next posting. If you find yourself seeking a brief departure from the historic sights and landmarks, I strongly urge you to indulge in the mouthwatering Tastes of Tuscany!







]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232249640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232249640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232249640/tpod.html Sat, 17 Jan 2009 23:40:46 -0500 The EuroTraveler

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Florence, Tuscany, Italy

Care to journey back with me to the 13th century to study the masters in one of the most famous art collections in the world? To get up close and personal with Giotto, Raphael, Michelangelo, Bernini and Caravaggio? To travel through time from Gothic, to Renaissance, to High Renaissance, to the Baroque with the Medici? Well, read on to see how we spent our first day in the Renaissance City of Florence!

We started out at the Uffizi Gallery at 8:30am, the time of our reservation. What do I mean by reservation? Well, after reading this posting you will understand fully. When we arrived at the Uffizi courtyard, the center of a giant "U" which is surrounded by the three wings of the museum, we found the entrance line stretching from Entrance #1 on one side of the street, winding down toward the Arno and then back up the other side of the street to Entrance #3 where you actually enter the museum to begin your tour. If you don't have a reservation in hand or are not part of a group, this line will eat up 2-3 hours of your day. This is exactly why we had ours. And to help you avoid wasting precious moments of vacation time, I will explain how to get your reservations. But you'll have to wait to the end of this posting. Needless to say, we bypassed the line and arrived at Entrance #3 where we picked up our actual tickets and proceeded to the museum entrance. We were inside in less than five minutes. Ha!

Before we begin our journey through the museum, let me give a little history on the Uffizi Gallery. Established by the Medici in 1581, this world famous museum was originally commissioned by Cosimo I in 1560, the patriarch of the Medici family, and designed by Georgio Vasari, a very well known artist of the day and one of Cosimo's favorites. The edifice was intended to serve as offices or uffizis for the high-ranking magistrates of Florence. Over time, the Medici amassed a large collection of artwork; either purchased or commissioned, and stored them here in especially elaborate rooms such as the Tribuna, the red walled octagonal shaped room that houses some of the Medici's most prized collections. More on that later. When the Medici fell out of power, Anna Maria Luisa, the last Medici heiress, established the museum through a family pact that stated all of her possessions were never to leave Florence and then opened up the museum to the public in 1765. The rest, as they say, is history.

We began our journey a little winded after ascending 3 very long staircases to the top landing where you are greeted by the "family", the Medici Family that is. Busts of the prominent members surround you and it's at this point you begin your tour and understand just how influential this family was in Florence of the day.

After surrendering your ticket, you begin in the 13th century Gothic art rooms. Like the Vatican, the Uffizi too has quite a collection of this fascinating two-dimensional artistic style of painting that features prolific amounts of gold throughout the works. Lacking in the art of this time period was perspective, an idea born of a Renaissance man some 300 years later - Brunelleschi in the 15th century and demonstrated later by Masaccio in his Holy Trinity, a fresco on the inside wall of the Santa Maria Novella.

From here, the rooms travel through the centuries and we discovered Botticelli's "Primavera" and "Birth of Venus" of which we purchased a print and had framed beautifully upon our return to the States. Stunningly beautiful, the "Birth of Venus" is rich in color and tells the story of Venus who arrives on this first day of creation, floating in a shell with the winds, Zephyr and Aura blowing her ashore. To her right, is one of the Three Graces, who is ready to offer her capes to cover her modest state. See for yourself.

As you continue your journey, you will come upon Michelangelo's "Doni Tondo", a painting of the Holy Family completed in the early 16th century and during the transitional phase from the "Renaissance" period to that of "Mannerism", around 1520. Giotto, Lippi, Carravagio, Raphael (Self Portrait), Leonardo (the unfinished Adoration of the Magi, Annunciation), Titian (Venus d'Urbino) Piero Della Francesca (Duke of Urbino), Parmigianino (The Madonna of the Long Neck) and countless others throughout. There are also rooms of Italian sculptures where you'll find Bernini's statue of The Martyred St. Lawrence, The Tribuna Room where the Medici kept their most treasured and valuable pieces of their collection. We continued through the ages and ended up in the 18th century.

As you weave in and out of all of the connecting rooms, be sure to notice the ceilings in the outer hallways. What are known in the artistic world as "grotesques", not because of the subject matter but of the origin of the art form itself, are frescos painted in the 16th and 17th centuries. This style of painting derives its name from where they were first discovered, on the ceilings of grottos, hence "grotesques".

At last, we have almost completed our tour. There is one fascinating element of this museum that I want to share with you, a spectacular corridor, known as the Vasari Corridor, which was designed by the artist in 1565 as a wedding present to Francesco I and Joan of Austria. This "secret passageway" stretches from the Uffizi Gallery, down along the Arno River, across the river via the Ponte Vecchio, and finally adjoins the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens ("The" Medici Palace of Florence and the topic of a later posting). It was reserved exclusively for the Medici who traveled this kilometer long passageway by pulling themselves by hand along its entire length. Dismaying as it may be, this clandestine corridor is not open to general public. However, if your one of the lucky ones who may traverse its path as part of a special group or school tour, you'll be in for a real treat. If any of you have made this journey, I am jealous so please send me a comment so I can live vicariously through you! Check it out.

Now that we are at the end of our first tour in Florence, allow me to impart a few essential tips. Before we left for Europe, I investigated a lot of the places we planned to visit online and in the books I recommend on this site. I also checked many tour websites that featured group and private tours of the city, the churches, the museums and other popular sights. Only a few hours in length, these tours are a great introduction if you're a first time visitor.

We booked our tour, almost a full day, through Avventure Bellissime. One of their most popular tours features a guided city walk in the morning to learn about the architecture, the historical sights, the Medici and the role that Florence played in one of the most influential and reawakening periods in history, the Renaissance! Following our morning walk, was the guided tour of the Accademia to see Michelangelo's David. Later in the afternoon, we all met up at the Uffizi Gallery. I strongly recommend this tour and it's well worth the price because not only do you get a great introduction to the city and learn the significance of the architecture, the popular sights, etc, you don't have to worry about the price of museums nor the strongly recommended advanced reservations. If a whole day doesn't appeal to you, then book a shorter tour of one museum. The site offers a variety. Take a look.

Now, if you want to skip the tour, it's understandable since the cost may be more than you want to spend, however make your reservations for the museums at the very least. There's a small fee but it's well worth it. I think I have made my point here. And be sure to rent an audio guide. We did that on our last trip there. I do have one last secret to share but be sure you don't tell anyone! Ask your hotel to make the reservations for you. Since you are a paying customer, you will find they are most amenable. Our friend, Miriam at the Monna Lisa, was only too happy to oblige when we asked her to book the Uffizi and Academia. Oh and leave your cameras in your rooms because no pictures allowed.

It's time to head to the Accademia to see Michelangelo, The Florentine's, "David" - my next posting.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232251740/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232251740/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1232251740/tpod.html Sat, 17 Jan 2009 23:40:12 -0500 The EuroTraveler

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Florence, Tuscany, Italy

Florence - The EuroTraveler seeks out to discover the art and architecture of the city that gave birth to the Renaissance.

The Art of the Renaissance is everywhere in Florence and lies awaiting discovery and scrutiny by all whose curiosity is piqued by the masters' creative genius. Guided by skillful hands, these gifted artists created masterpieces on canvas, in marble, in writing and in the design of some of the most inspiring architecture in the world. Monuments and buildings designed by Michelangelo - the Florentine and Brunelleschi, a "Diving Comedy" by Dante, the master strokes of Botticelli and let's not forget the Medici, the leading family driving the Renaissance and their generous and outpouring support of the arts. Imagine all of this right here in Florence!


What else does Florence have to offer? Well for starters, there's the Duomo in the city center - Santa Maria del Fiori with its largest brick and mortar dome ever build even to this day (Pantheon is larger but made of concrete); the Baptistry and its Gates of Paradise; the shopping at the Ponte Vecchio; the sculpture collections at the Bargello Museum, the art of the Uffizi and Accademia (my next posting); the Medici Chapels in San Lorenzo; Santa Croce where Michelangelo lays to rest; the Piazza della Signoria; the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens just across the Arno River; and there's so much more. Want a bird's eye view of most of this? Visit Italy Guides and have a look around high atop Giotto's campanile. It's breathtaking!

We will explore these places plus others in upcoming postings so by the time we leave Florence and Tuscany, you and I will have relived the wonderful memories and maybe learned a thing or two as well. And then we can reflect on how the city that gave birth to the Renaissance, resurrected the classics and lead the way for the world out of the Dark Ages and into the light!

To discover all that this Tuscan city has to offer seems Herculean, however, if you properly plan your visit before you leave home, you are sure to make the most of your time. Just remember, you're never going to do it in one trip so don't try lest you'll end up disappointed and exhausted. Instead, take your time, go slowly through the sights and know you can always return again. Actually, that's a most comforting thought, to return to Florence! So, come with me as we journey together to seek out all that Florence has to reveal.


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1231038960/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1231038960/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1231038960/tpod.html Sat, 03 Jan 2009 22:59:46 -0500 The EuroTraveler

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Florence, Tuscany, Italy

I am so excited to be writing about Tuscany. Now that I have shared some of our Roman holiday memories and now that the winter Holidays are coming to end, it's time for me to get back to telling more tales of our journey in Europe. This time it's off to Tuscany and I have so much so share with you! Overall, we were in Florence for 6 days and explored most of the architecture and fine art in the birthplace of the Renaissance; tasted the fine cuisine of course; and were awe-struck with the breathtaking Tuscan landscapes as we went touring through the hills. I tell you it's just as you see it in books, online, in movies, but this time it's in living color with your own eyes! I couldn't believe my own!

But first let me back up to tell you a little about how we got there. Early in the morning on the day of our departure, we caught a cab and headed for Rome Termini train station to board our train for our 1 ½ hour to journey to Florence. Have you ever traveled by train in Europe? It's wonderfully convenient and best of all, provides a respite from those busy touring itineraries left behind in Rome and yet to come in Florence. Once on board with your luggage, ugh, find your seat and sit back, relax and watch the landscapes roll by from the comfort of your own seat. It may be some time before a conductor stops by to stamp your biglietto so don't worry, he will come. I need to digress and mention how important it is to book your seats ahead of time so you are guaranteed seating on the train. If you don't, you risk standing for the duration and that would really be inconvenient, to say the least. Before we left the U.S., I went to Rail Europe to book all of our city-to-city train tickets and had them in hand before we left. Very convenient and no need to stand in long lines at the station.

Finally Firenze! We're here! It's 12:15 and we're on our way to our most favorite place to stay in all of Europe, The Hotel Monna Lisa in Florence. Yes, the spelling is correct, two "n's". I stumbled upon this place while planning for our first trip It's exactly the kind of place I wanted to stay while in Florence and it's convenient to the Duomo and Baptistry, the Uffuzi, The Accademia, the Ponte Vecchio, and more!
Although not much to look at from the front when your taxi arrives at the front door, and actually, that's all you see, is a front door, it's a complete transformation once you're inside! First, you walk through what was once a living room of some sort but it's vacant and all you see at the other end of the room are glass doors welcoming you to the hotel lobby. After you check in, it's off the to main building that houses the bar, the breakfast garden room and sitting room, all with views into an enchanting courtyard that's filled with fragrances of flowering trees, citrus and olive. Each building has public sitting rooms with desks and no matter which building you're in, each is quaint and completely charming! See for yourself.

Talk about steeped in history, this hotel has a history dating back to the 1300s when this palazzo was originally a convent. Later in 1439, it was owned by the Ferrantini Family and then the Nerri family in the early 1500's. After that, it changed families until the present-day owners, the Ciardi Dupre Family, converted it into a hotel in 1956. I know this sounds like a commercial, but I recommend calling the Hotel Monna Lisa your home next time you're in Florence and even while you're touring throughout Tuscany as well. It was our base while we ventured under the Tuscan sun to Siena, Montepulciano, Pienza and Fiesole (those stories in later postings) and it was so nice to come back in the early evening and relax in the courtyard with a cappuccino before dinner. This is when I loved to journal the day's experience.

Our room is #5 every time we go because it has a balcony that overlooks the lush and fragrant courtyard that the hotel surrounds on three sides. To the left is a convent. Breakfast is included every day and is served in the garden room. Nice huh?

Well, I will leave you to your exploring the website and taking in the snapshots. I can't tell you enough how wonderful this place is. You will just have to find out for yourself.




Arrivederci!!
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1230418980/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1230418980/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/eurotraveler/1/1230418980/tpod.html Sat, 27 Dec 2008 18:11:53 -0500 The EuroTraveler

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Karwendel and others, Germany

According to folklore, back before the Germans converted to Christianity, they celebrated Yule, a pagan religious festival, surrounding the winter solstice, that ran from late December to early January. At the time, it was believed that the god Odin the wanderer, or Wodan, would host his annual Yule hunting party with fellow gods and travel the skies at night with his horse, Sleipnir. Children in the villages below, would fill up their boots with straw, carrots or sugar and place them near the chimney so that Sleipnir could come down to eat during his midnight rides. Odin would then reward these kind children by replacing the food with gifts and candy treats.

Sounds very similar to Sinterklaas, don't you think. The striking difference between these two legends is in their physical appearance. Odin, like Sinterklaas, was depicted as an old man with a white beard; however Odin, the warrior god, is missing his left eye. Wouldn't make a very nice "Yule" card, would it?

After Christianity spread to this region, Odin evolved into Saint Nicholas and the Germans, Belgians and Dutch passed these new traditions down from generation to generation. When the traditions came to America via New Amsterdam or New York, the boots that were once placed by the chimneys became socks or stockings.

Hope you learned a little more about the traditions of Christmas. I know I did.

Happy Holidays!

The EuroTraveler
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Multi European Cities, Austria

Star of Wonder, Star of night....what inspiring words on the most holy night of the year. I want to share some pics I received in an email as well as a few more I added of European cities during Christmas time. I hope you enjoy them and are inspired by their spirit. Merry Christmas...Veselé vánoce...Vrolijk kerstfeest...Joyeux Noël...Frohe Weihnachten...Καλά Χριστούγεννα...Buon Natale...С Рождеством...Feliz Navidad...God jul...Glædelig jul...
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Amsterdam, Noord-Holland, Netherlands

Last week, one of my very good friends in London shared with me the legend of Sinterklaas or Saint Nicholas and how her family celebrates the tradition in the Netherlands. I found the whole story fascinating because although very similar to our Santa Claus, Sinterklaas has his own story based in fact as well as legend. Come and discover with me the traditions, the stories and the truths of Sinterklaas, the patron saint of children.

Every year on the eve of 5 December or the morn of 6 December, the Dutch and Flemish celebrate Saint Nicholas who is celebrated less for his role as bishop and more for his generosity and benevolence. He is thought of as a kind of Godfather whose good will is remembered and celebrated with traditions of gift giving and feasts and good ol' fashioned storytelling.

Fact or fiction or both? Well, yes Virginia, there really was a Saint Nicholas. Actually, he lived from 271 to 6 December 342 or 343 and was born into a wealthy family. Tragically, he lost his parents to an epidemic and later donated his material possessions to the poor and needy to become a priest. He went on to become Archbishop of Myra in Turkey and it was during this time of his life that news of his good deeds spread throughout the lands. Later, he became the patron saint of sailors and it is because of these legends that Saint Nicholas reached the North Sea and the Netherlands in the 12th and 13th centuries and the reason why Amsterdam adopted him as their patron saint of the city.

According to legend, many European children believe that Saint Nicholas lives in Spain. Throughout the year, he watches over all the children of the world to see who's been naughty and who's been nice and records his note in his "Big Red" book. Sound familiar? Every year in the beginning November, Sinterklaas' helper, Black Peter, assists him with gathering up the gifts for the journey to the Netherlands. As the story goes, Saint Nicholas grabs his sack full of presents and rides his white horse also named Peter, with his helper, Black Peter, and the three of them embark on a steamship headed for a different port town each year in the Netherlands. By the time mid-November rolls around, the trio arrives and is greeted with a country-wide celebration and parade. It's this moment that marks the beginning of "Sinterklaas" season.

The legend tells us that at night, Sinterklaas and his gang fly through the skies of the Netherlands to deliver their gifts. Once alighted on the rooftop, Saint Nicholas listens at the chimney with his horse, Peter, who climbs down to make sure a carrot and straw are replaced with gifts.

After Sinterklaas has come and gone, everyone finds their packages which are hidden all over the house and found by various clues. According to tradition, they must be wrapped or disguised in some way and accompanied by a fitting poem for the recipient. The poem is particularly interesting in that it gives the gift giver an opportunity to write something funny, embarrassing, or generally unknown about the recipient and it's read aloud to the rest of the family. All is done in good fun and the gift giver goes unknown because all presents are really from Sinterklaas.

I hope you enjoyed this journey to the Netherlands as much as I did and I hope you discovered something new. I found it fascinating and striking because of the similarities to our own Santa Claus. So, you better watch out, and better not cry, better not pout, I'm telling you why, Sinterklaas is coming to the Netherlands!


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Frankfurt, Hesse, Germany

During this festive time of year, I am going to take a break from my travels in Italy and France to discover Christmas in a whole new light. How do Europeans celebrate Christmas? There must be a myriad of traditions that come alive during Christmastime and I am going to seek them out and share them with you. Living in Florida, I pine for the mountains, a gentle snow fall and the aromas of fresh baked goods and hot chocolate wafting through the crisp air at Christmastime. Now, come along and journey with me through Christmas and to the Epiphany to discover the cities of Europe steeped in Christmas traditions and aglow with brilliant lights during this joyous time of the year.

I haven't yet, but someday soon, I plan to take a Christmas tour through the villages and the cities to experience Christmas with the people of these lands and share with them a bit of their own traditions during this time when the spirit of the Christmas shines upon them in their city squares.

Our first stop is Frankfurt, Germany. For over 600 years, there has been a Christmas market in the historical city centre. As you wander around the beautifully decorated stalls, the aromas of grilled sausages, baked pastries, roasted nuts, mulled wine and of course, ginger bread float through the air to make this truly a multi-sensory experience! And with all of the handcrafted and imported goods, there's a lot shopping to be had and you're sure to find something for everyone.
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