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<pubDate>Sat, 24 Jun 2006 16:45:35 -0400</pubDate>
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    <title>Inca Trail - Day 4 &#x2014; Cusco, Peru</title>
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    <pubDate>Sat, 24 Jun 2006 16:45:35 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Cusco, Peru</b><br /><br />As planned we were up at 4.30 am, breakfasted and on the very first bus up to Machu Pichu at 5.30 from the small but buzzing town in the valley below.<br><br>The evening before we had descended to the town, found our hotel, had a great and refreshing time in natural hot spring baths, and then met up with the rest of our group, Maru, Michael and Kerry.<br><br>Miguel was our guide for the morning and we wandered al over Machu Pichu, learning about life in the city all those years ago.<br><br>We were grateful to have been on the first bus, for as we neared the end of our tour it became progressively harder not to bump into other visitors.<br><br>Tour ended, we split up for free time, some choosing to further explore, others just to rest and a few of us headed back to Town to watch the football at our hotel.<br><br>Later in the day we took the train back along the valley and then a small mini bus back to our hotel in Cusco.<br><br>It had been an absolutely fabulous, 1st class trip and we will all I am sure have memories of our Inca Trail trip for the rest of our lives.<br />
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    <title>Andean Biking &#x2014; Cusco, Peru</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jun 2006 19:08:13 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Cusco, Peru</b><br /><br />From Cusco the group travelled by mini bus deep into the Andes for the next part of the tour - biking.<br><br>The terrain was absolutely fabulous; I thought the New Zealand Alps were incredible but the Andes are even better. But we travelled for some 5 hours and that was hard.<br><br>Eventually we got to our destination at the top of some mountain where there is a Statue of the guy who opened a pass through; Sven Ericcson (not sure his middle name was Goran!)<br><br>While lunch was served the bikes were unloaded and fixed up, and as soon as lunch was over we were off on a 50k downhill ride. The riding was fantastic fun; fast, gruelling, muddy in places, and with sheer drops and gravelly bits it was pretty dangerous too.<br><br>Three hours later we were at our camp, a couple of basic wooden thatched chalets set into the jungle by a rolling river. Wooden dividers separated rooms which each had two single mosquito netted beds, and central to the bedding areas were a dining/lounge area, kitchen and separate toilet block.<br><br>George our guide owned the lodge, and was at one with nature. Everything about the lodge was ecological, no waste, no damage, no sign of man.<br><br>Personally I hadn't signed up for a nature trail, shopping or cultural trip, and whilst the various stops and excursions were appreciated by some I just wanted more of the action, and with our second day at this camp as a rest day / ecological day, I was bored. Boredom not so bad with games and fooling around with the rest of the group, thank goodness we all got on.<br><br>The third day was spent bussing up to the top of another mountain and biking down. Lunch, a bit more bussing and a final dash down hill. The biking itself was fab, the rest was not for me.<br />
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    <title>Inca Trail - Day 3 &#x2014; Cusco, Peru</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jun 2006 12:05:34 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Cusco, Peru</b><br /><br />Reaching the Sun Gate overlooking Machu Pichu mid afternoon on our third day was an awesome experience. We had pushed hard to get there, and our guide Miguel had got it spot on; get to Machu Pichu on the third day then be one of the first in the next morning - it was perfect.<br><br>We woke before sun rise with the mandatory cup of coco tea. The camping part of the trip had been five star, with the porters looking after our every need, even ready with bowls of hot water and towels as we ventured from our tents. The days might have been warm and sometimes hot, but the nights were bloody freezing, and I was glad I had a 0deg sleeping bag plus liner, but I still went to bed fully clothed.<br><br>Sun rise as beautiful, and it set us up nicely for the rest of the day. Leaving shortly after a hearty breakfast, we headed up hill for about an hour and then down step after step after step through jungle clad mountains - I was having to protect the knee I'd damaged in China, and this down hill stretch was in some ways more arduous than the uphill. I actually developed a bizarre way of walking down hill with my staff, which I held in both hands, outstretched in front of me. By raising and lowering the staff I actually found my back and therefore body weight moving back at varying degrees and the pressure on my knees totally removed - it may have looked odd but it was highly effective.<br><br>We lunched at another main camp, and toured a local ruin, then passing through the final Inca Trail check point, headed on our last stretch.<br><br>Tired, but in awe of the scenery we trekked on, and on, and then climbed the final steps to the Sun Gate, the final Inca lookout before Machu Pichu.<br><br>What an amazing sight, looking down on what was once an incredible city of stone some 2/3 km in the distance. The stories of it's demise still baffle me as I can't believe anyone could have taken this place in a fight, it appears so impregnable.<br><br>I am not going to bore you with history, I am not even going to give you my feelings, I will just say if you go top South America, get to Peru, book yourself on the Inca Trail (book early), walk it in three days and get to Machu Pichu during daylight via the sun gate..... don't think about it; Do It!!<br />
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    <title>Inca Trail - Day 2 &#x2014; Cusco, Peru</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jun 2006 12:00:28 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Cusco, Peru</b><br /><br />Raring to go we headed off for one of the toughest pats of the trail, an almost constant climb up to Dead Woman's Pass at 4,200m.<br><br>It was excruciatingly hard, with some parts seeming like vertical climbs up steps too tall for even those with the longest legs. At times I was only capable of 10 steps before needing a rest and repeating the process. Oxygen was very depleted at this height and my heart was pounding like crazy trying to carry what oxygen it had around my body. My legs hurt from lack of sugar and oxygen, but it was comforting to find I wasn't the only one suffering and I wasn't holding the group up - outside of Frank who was miles ahead the rest of the group was all suffering, but we trudged on.<br><br>We finally scrambled up the last leg of Dead Woman's Pass, where we met up with many fellow hikers taking in the views, taking pictures and congratulating each other. It was a great moment.<br><br>Having rested for an hour, we headed down the other side and lunched at one of several pre-defined camp sites along the way.<br><br>It looked like it was about to rain and with a few drops of the stuff we all put rain gear on and headed up the pass. It got hotter and hotter, steeper and steeper and it didn't rain - rain gear off.<br><br>We passed several Inca sites en route and stopped at a few to learn of some of there history, but the main target of course was Machu Pichu.<br><br>We camped that night at a great site, overlooking a valley and completely surrounded by Andean mountains, with Peru's tallest mountain, snow capped and  just a short distance away - as the crow flies.<br />
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    <title>Inca Trail - Day 1 &#x2014; Cusco, Peru</title>
    <link>http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/euromaverick/worldtrip06/1149695340/tpod.html</link>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jun 2006 11:55:10 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Cusco, Peru</b><br /><br />My sickness had abated, but I still had a bad head, and this would continue for a few more days - especially as we were due to climb to 4,200m at Dead Woman's Pass on the Inca Trail.<br><br>The group split, as not everyone was able to get passes to do the Inca Trail. I felt sorry for Kerry, Maru and Michael as they weren't joining the rest of us on what is an absolute must for Peru. Apparently they had a good time on another trek, but it can't have been the same. There are only 500 passes issued each day for the trail and that includes porters, so roughly 120 tourist passes. You need to book well in advance to get one, and it is verified by passport number - if you lose your passport or the number is recorded incorrectly; you won't be going!<br><br>So even though I felt lousy, I felt lucky to be on the trail.<br><br>Our little Inca trail group headed off by mini bus and stopped close to the start of the control check to meet our porters, Miguel our guide, and to buy snacks and walking sticks.<br><br>This was an exciting time, and once we were under way it was just great to see the Andes upfront and personal.<br><br>The walking the first day was relatively easy, and the trail was well trodden and easy going. Climbs were slight and the countryside just glorious, with ravines, rivers, open pastures and fantastic mountain views.<br><br>We had 9 porters and a cook, plus the most fantastic guide (Miguel), and at various intervals we stopped for a rest and snack - I think this was more for the porters, who carry some 20-25 kilos each at at an amazing pace. We were apparently putting up quite a pace, having already decided to cut the trek from 4 to 3 days, we were still hitting break points ahead of time. I think this was more to do with Frank, who I swear is a human train and even with a full pack he could have walked the entire trail in a day!<br><br>The porters had set up lunch by a small river, and our three course lunch was great, which reminds me if you think you are going to lose weight on these trips forget it, although you are exerting a lot of energy, the food is so good and there is lashings of it!<br><br>During the afternoon the trail got a little steeper and tougher, and in spite of it being difficult to breathe and tired legs it was really exhilarating.<br><br>We made camp at about 5.00pm and having washed and changed, I pulled out the cards and we started the first of many really fun evenings, of cards, jokes, banter and mind games. As with most evenings we were in bed and asleep around 8.00pm, tired, thrilled and excited about the rest of the trail which we would hit the following morning around 5.00am.<br />
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    <title>Pre Inca Trail &#x2014; Cusco, Peru</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jun 2006 11:49:09 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Cusco, Peru</b><br /><br />We were picked up by mini bus from our hotel in Cusco . We had been asked to pack kit bags of no more than 5kilo for the hike plus anything else we wanted to carry in our own rucksacks the rest of our belongings were stored in the hotel.<br><br>I had selected this 16 day Hiking, Biking and Rafting trip with GAP before I left, and overall I have mixed feelings. I have travelled around the world at an incredible pace, every day has been occupied with experience and adventure, and that is how I have wanted it - I've seen many travellers chilling in front of tellies, watching videos etc, that is something I can do at home and not what I wanted from my trip. So there are bits of this GAP trip that have had me bored shi_less, and given it has been part of an organised trip I have been trapped - the rest; the actual hiking, the Biking and the rafting have been brilliant with the best of guides and a fun group of companions.<br><br>Today ended up being a bit of a sightseeing tour, we stopped at a Peruvian village, where the village women plied there wares on us, we were taken to a lama sanctuary which low and behold had an adjoining shop, and we were taken to yet more Inca ruins with the inevitable guided tour - all by mini bus and all very touristy (something I have tried to avoid like the plague).<br><br>Our hotel that night was very pleasant, and the town we were staying in was lively; the locals apparently practising for the forthcoming festivals - it was very Hispanic, with dancing and music, and processions, and even with cannons firing off at dawn (reminded me of the musket firing around the streets of Altea in similar style).<br />
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    <title>Cusco &#x2014; Cusco, Peru</title>
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    <pubDate>Fri, 23 Jun 2006 11:33:40 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Cusco, Peru</b><br /><br />The previous night I had met up with the rest of the group I was to be with for the next 15 days in a hotel in the Miraflores district of Lima.<br><br>A trip like the one I was about to embark on could be a complete nightmare if just one person in the party is a jerk, but fortunately the group I belonged to was absolutely brilliant, gelling almost immediately, and forming a strong bond throughout the entire trip. The party was small with just seven of us, made up of a Norwegian couple; Aslak and Monika, a Canadian; Maru, Kerry from England, Michael from Ireland, Frank another Norwegian and myself. With the exception of Frank who was in his mid thirties and myself the rest of the group were in their twenties.<br><br>In spite of some arduous times, we had some great laughs, and it was rare for us to have a dull moment, either playing cards, or just spoofing around when resting, and our guides it seemed had great fun looking after us all.<br><br>Today we settled into our hotel (in honesty the hotels on our trip were not up to par - whilst I hadn't expected 5 star, I had expected a hotel where hot water was in abundance and the toilet worked!) in Cusco, following a short mid day flight. We had lunch in the main square and then took a short walk around some of the sights.<br><br>Cusco is about 3,400m above sea level, and suddenly late afternoon, I felt absolutely awful; breathing had been really difficult all day but now I had a stinking headache and was throwing up - I had a bad case of altitude sickness. I slept for a couple of hours, had to leave part way through our Inca Trail briefing to throw up yet again that evening, and instead of going out with the group went to bed.<br><br>I have to say I was really worried about being able to start the Inca Trail in this state let alone finish it.<br />
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    <title>Tears in your eyes &#x2014; Lima, Peru</title>
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    <pubDate>Sun, 04 Jun 2006 15:49:22 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Lima, Peru</b><br /><br />It is now Sunday and I am about to leave the Double Tree Hotel in Miraflores, Lima and head for a hotel connected with the 16 day tour of hiking, biking and rafting, I am about to take.<br><br>I arrived in Lima 5 days ago, and for the first time my whole trip, my travel plans were not 100%. I have been bored and fairly unimpressed with Lima, and I really should have spent the extra days in New Zealand.<br><br>Arriving in Lima, bags and documents were thoroughly checked, now I could understand this for places like New Zealand but Peru! I am still not sure why. Then instead of being allowed to take an easy exit door, passengers were made to walk into the terminal and through a throng of waiting taxi, tour and hotel touts, so tightly packed it was hard to get through. Once out I was trying to find the Green Taxi rank, but without success until a driver appeared and showed me ID for the Green Taxi company, I was relieved until we got to the beaten up vehicle posing for a taxi and another man became the driver, the original the navigator. I started to think this might be a set <br>up - and who could tell what correct ID should like like anyway?<br><br>I checked I could open he passenger door, and whilst my rucksack was in the boot I always had my most important documents with me at all times in my small rucksack, so I was happy I could escape if needs be - where to would be another problem. It was dark and although we went through lit areas, it was all dirty and grimy. I was eventually deposited outside the Inca Lodge, the street looking dark and dingy, and having sorted payment, all was well.<br><br>The lodge was quiet, very clean, modern and comfortable, but with no real lounge area, it lacked atmosphere and was ca bit sterile. The showers were dreadful as well, and if there is one thing I hate it is a dribble for a shower - I'd rather have none.<br><br>The other backpackers were good fun though, and the usual camaraderie ensued with group trips to bars and restaurants.<br><br>I spent my first day walking along the cliff tops and beach front and generally getting used to the area. I have to admit to being a fresh air freak - something to do with being couped up in a small car with my father chain smoking on my way to school every day, I guess. Within half an hour my eyes were watering and my nostrils itching from the dreadful smog that apparently covers Lima for 9 months of the year.<br><br>Lima is actually broken down in several smaller districts, and I was in the posher bit called Miraflores. Here there are a few nicer buildings (the Marriott Hotel being the best), and some half decent restaurants, but certainly little culture. To the front of the Marriott is a small but nice shopping precinct perched on the edge of the cliffs and overlooking the sea.<br><br>I did walk into Lima itself one day, and passed a huge abundance of schools and colleges, in the main teaching English. It was quite funny to see a USA flag adorning one college that taught English - I wonder if they know what pants are!<br><br>One of the most unique and amazing sites for me was a shopping mall converted into and indoor market. Each stall averaging 3 meters by 3 meters, and each of the four floors was made up of hundreds of these tightly packed together. 90% of the stalls were occupied by printers, and not just taking orders but actually doing the design and printing. Stalls had every sort of printer available from hand cranked, through offset litho to full colour copiers. Machines and pc's and staff, plus supplies were crammed into these tiny spaces, all bustling away with reams of paper spewing out. Some staff were collating finished jobs, others typesetting and others checking print runs, the smell, noise and activity was incredible.<br><br>Huddled between the stalls were internet cafes, both offering internet and PC gaming. These again were packed, I guess because whilst the internet and gaming is popular here, people can't afford PC's at home. Whilst clothes and food are relatively cheap, electrical's aren't.<br><br>I did take a trip in a taxi to some old ruins some 30 minutes south of Lima. I was surprised it was an area of desert, and how much it looked like Egypt with huge sand dunes and even the housing was similar. The ruins themsewlves had been last occupied in the 15th century, and much is still under sand, but they reckon some 25,000 people had once lived here. The largest structure is the Temple of the Sun, and it lay majestically above the ocean. Ironically the vista from the main steps leading towards the ocean was broken with a Spanish bull ring, a reminder of how us Europeans had destroyed so much in the name of religion and/or progress.<br><br>Given the lodge shower situation, and the fact I was pretty bored, I booked into the Doubletree Hotel. I managed to get a 50% discount, and without asking I got an upgraded room - bit of a waste to have two double beds in the room and a lounge area when there was just me, but I wasn't complaining. Breakfast was included and free free wireless internet was available in the room - much better. Apparently I am a Flash Packer (rather than a Back Packer) one who can afford to stay in a hotel but chooses to stay in a lodge - at times like this it is great.<br><br>I think the next 16 days I'll be roughing it, which I'm looking forward to, and hopefully with the hiking and biking I'll get fitter and lose some more weight. So it is adios from a tearful Lima!<br />
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    <title>Back in Time &#x2014; Santiago, Chile</title>
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    <pubDate>Sun, 04 Jun 2006 13:43:46 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Santiago, Chile</b><br /><br />From Auckland, I had an 11 hour flight to Santiago, Chile.<br><br>The flight was ok except for some bastxxxx, who couldn't stop passing wind; he stank and every time I tried to get to sleep another waft of him would hit my nostrils - I resorted to covering my nose with my jacket, and every nolw and again a stewardess would come through the cabin with air freshener; that's how bad it was.!<br><br>We left NZ at 5.30pm on the 30th and travelled for half a day arriving 6 hours before we left. So Judy and my kids who had been 12 hours behind were now 6 hours ahead. My watch was saying the 31st but I had to drag it back to the 30th kicking and screaming. It is a really nice way of travelling - I've added a day to my trip without even trying.<br><br>Flying in over Chile this morning was fabulous - bathed in sunshine and with clear skies, I was able to make out homes, fields, vehicles, and the closer we got to Santiago, the greener and more fertile it became. The land all the way to the sea was hilly and semi-mountainous, and overlooking Santiago itself the edge of the Andes - snow capped as well, with a large river running right down to the sea.<br><br>The airport is modern, clean and tidy, and shops as normal as in any airport. The people are all friendly and helpful. I headed for a VIP lounge - I have a 7 hour stop over and want to spend it in relative comfort - success; nice chairs, TV's food and drink and Internet access.<br><br>Next stop Lima, Peru.<br />
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    <title>The beauty of the North &#x2014; Taupo, New Zealand</title>
    <link>http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/euromaverick/worldtrip06/1148845860/tpod.html</link>
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    <category>Travel Blogs</category>
    <guid>http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/euromaverick/worldtrip06/1148845860/tpod.html</guid>
    <pubDate>Tue, 30 May 2006 16:07:13 -0400</pubDate>
    <description>&#x22;Go East, middle aged man!&#x22; - Adventures of a novice traveller on his first trip around the globe.</description>
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        <b>Taupo, New Zealand</b><br /><br />I obviously needed the sleep because I didn't wake until 11:00am, following my jaunt in Wellington.<br><br>I headed north up highway 1, passing through many quaint towns and villages, and lush green countryside. One of the towns I passed through, Bulls, near a New Zealand air force base, caused a stir a few years back when it exported milk to Europe; 'Milk from Bulls' was emblazoned across the cartons!<br><br>I was now getting used to the quaint towns, where there is nothing over two story and most buildings just single story with huge vertical hoardings in place of a second story, apart from there being modern neon signs, retail outlets and garages, you could be forgiven for thinking you were on the set of a western.<br><br>Although I was travelling along New Zealand's main highway, for the majority of the journey it as single lane. This isn't actually a problem in New Zealand as nothing goes faster than 100km (odd cars excepted) and most crawl along at this speed, so there is no need for overtaking or fast lanes, traffic flowing in one long convoy. Occasionally there are slow lanes where the road meanders up a hill, allowing cars an opportunity to overtake slower lorries. o my journey was slow and I now doubted if I'd make Auckland.<br><br>I travelled across a huge plain, which reminded me of Salisbury plain in England, and was even more reminiscent when I came across warning signs for military exercises. Across in the distance was the Central Plateau's triplet volcanoes; Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngauruhoe - they command a domineering presence on the rugged landscape. With white steam rising in the distance, it was evident there was volcanic activity, and with a snow cap I wondered if there was any ski activity.<br><br>I had already decided that my next couple of nights would be spent in a hotel - I had run around New Zealand at such a pace, and whilst it had been perfect for me (no chance of getting bored) I was now pretty exhausted and just wanted to chill.<br><br>I drove into Turangi, what a beautiful town. Obviously very prosperous, with everything absolutely immaculate, and large tree lined avenues and parks. Having refuelled here I continued and a few kilometres on came across a huge lake (lake Taopo), it must have been 50km long. Fisherman were spread along it's banks, and an occasional boat could be seen. <br><br>With the road following the line of the lake I entered the town of Taopo. If this town wasn't built specifically for tourism, it certainly grew from it, there must have been more motels, lodges and hotels than people when I arrived, simply hundreds of places to stay lining both sides of the road for some five kilometres into the town. And no wonder when I entered the local tourist centre, the amount of activities and things to see was astounding - you could spend a whole holiday here and not do or see it all. From water based activities, volcanic pools, and extreme sports to even driving a formula 1 race car!<br><br>The town itself was laid out on a grid style, and had the usual mix of restaurants bars and shops, I chose a hotel overlooking the lake, and after receiving some advice chose a bar from which to watch the rugby.<br><br>Rugby is a fabulous game and it still impresses me at how rival supporters can enjoy a game for what it is, sharing in each teams ups and downs with good banter. I think it is a world trait of rugby, that you never find any trouble centred on a game of rugby, and here was no different, with grown (brick shxx house) 6'6 men dressed in women's clothes, enjoying a good tease and laugh with all revellers. (Can't say that for football!). The match, the final of the super 14's, the equivalent of the FA cup final in England, was being contested by The Crusaders from south Island and The Hurricanes from North Island, and the build up commentary had been exciting. The match was interesting as it was played in a pea soup conditions, the whole stadium enveloped in a thick fog. It brought back fond memories of my playing days and a game in similar conditions in Suffolk. Whenever the ball was kicked high, all thirty players and ref stopped still, and waited, before charging towards the sound of the ball to hitting the ground.<br><br>The TV station hadn't got enough cameras to cover the game properly for these conditions the long range shots were hopeless, it was like watching the game back on an old black and white TV with an internal aerial, and virtually impossible to see the ball (they should have changed it for a red one). Reminds me of that piece of snooker commentary; "and for those of you watching this in black and white, the white ball is next to the blue"! But nonetheless it was fun to watch and the banter in the pub was good - The Crusaders won.<br />
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