TravelStream™ news feed for member edpayton on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/edpayton en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 24 Jul 2008 08:24:08 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1215809280/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1215809280/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1215809280/tpod.html Thu, 24 Jul 2008 08:24:08 -0400 MY TRIP TO TURKEY

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Istanbul, Turkey

The host family for tonight's dinner were delightful. The father was Eyup Kaya. Eyup in Turkish is Job. His father emigrated from Macedonia. Their family had moved there from Turkey to begin with. He owns a Mercedes Benz dealership and constructs homes. There home was very nice but very modest by our standards.
His wife and he have 3 children, 1 boy 14 who was away at Egypt, and 2 daughters, one 18 and 1 kindergarten age. The young girl was precious. The 18 year old will find out her test results tomorrow on college entrance. She wants to study medicine. She wears a head covering and will not be able to attend a state university or be on staff at a public hospitals because of it.
This family was so very gracious. We had a very stimulating conversation before , during and after the meal. Politics, religion, entertainment were all discussed. The love and mutual respect within this family is so evident in their relations with each other.
The meal was a banquet and as we squeezed into their kitchen-dining room we ate lamb, bread, tomatoes, 2 kinds of beans, a wonderful tomato soup, melon, watermelon, potatoes and a delicious dessert. I then had a cup of Turkish coffee followed by Turkish tea in the living room as we continued our conversation. The little girl sang for us a funny song about being given a shot in the butt.
Every word had to be translated, but not every thing. Some things came through loud and clear although only the 18 year old could speak English. Like hospitality, the joy of a beautiful young girl, breaking bread around a table prepared with love and care.
After saying good byes and exchanging gifts-I now have Moslem Prayer beads, we went to Piere Loti Cafe and Eyub Cemetery high on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn. Up a tram and then up steps for an incredible night time view.
What a blessing this night has been. Half way around the world in the home of a Muslim Family I found new friends.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216742820/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216742820/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216742820/tpod.html Wed, 23 Jul 2008 14:24:36 -0400 MY TRIP TO TURKEY

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Istanbul, Turkey

We began our day at the offices of Zaman (Times in Turkish) newspaper. It is a national newspaper with the largest circulation of any newspaper in Turkey; 800,000 copies each day. Zaman also publishes a weekly news magazine like Newsweek and runs a news service. It also publishes an edition of their newspaper in 6 languages around the world.
We met the Foreign Desk Editor. Below is a synopsis of his comments:
-Turkey is in a state of transformation
-Zaman, unlike many Turkish newspapers is a "serious" not sensationalist publication
-They have won 42 international design awards for their layouts
-Unlike most Turkish newspapers they separate news from opinion and mark it as such.
-They incorporate divergent viewpoints (op-ed) in the paper from across the spectrum
-They editorially support Turkeys drive for EU membership and see it as a crucial watershed event which must be reached.
-They support increased freedom for the people of Turkey.
-They support increasing the standard of living in Turkey
-They support increased educational opportunities for the young people of Turkey
-Turkey is a young country; it has a population of 70 million people and 70% of that population is under the age of 35.
-Modern Turkey has a history of military coups. Most recently they had had a non-violent military coup resulting in a revised constitution; a 1997 non-violent coup; last year an "electronic coup" in which the judiciary threw out the ruling party. At the next election, the people re-elected those people with the same principles as the party that had been removed by 48%-which is a landslide in a multi party democracy.

It is clear that Turkey is at a major political and social crossroads. The direction this country takes will greatly impact the middle east, the Muslim world and Europe.

We then visited the Turkish Jewish Museum housed in an alleyway in an older part of Istanbul in what was once a synagogue. The Jewish heritage runs deep in Turkey even though the population has been small. Turkey has served as a refuge for Jews over the centuries, staring in 1492 when the Jews were expelled from Spain.

We then went to Tamik Hill. It is the entertainment district. It is filled with modern shops, hotels and lots of cafes. I ate in an alley cafe. I had what they called toast. Specifically I had what the cafe called "Festiva Toast", the signature toast of that little restaurant. It is a cross between a panini and a grilled cheese sandwich. Mine had lambs cheese, salami, tomatos, olives and onions on it. It was delicious. I also had some Turkish fries.
While we ate in the alley,to our side in an enclosed area of the cafe, there was a bar and some tables. The walls were covered with large video screens blaring out one video after another of Queen Songs.
Three young people were drinking coffee to our left and puffing on a hookah. Our hostess was a bouncy red haired girl with an engaging smile who tested her English on us.
I stopped by a bookstore for awhile-looking mostly at the English section. At one point in the background I could hear Gogol Bordello singing "Start Wearing Purple."
The bookstore and cafe were located on what is billed as the busiest pedestrian street in the world (I think of Peking and have my doubts). Shops on both sides are swarmed by a mass of humanity, with alleyways jetting off to both sides filled with quaint cafes and more shops.
I bought an ice cream cone of mixed flavors,,,all natural and home made. When the vendor handed it to me he manipulated the cone, turning it completely upside down. I thought he had dropped it, but he quickly recovered it and smiled at me. I then went back to the top of Tamak Hill. I ate my ice cream on the memorial to Ataturk, the founder of the modern Turkish Republic, on the spot where the military had conducted their own "Tinnamen Square" event a few decades ago.
Back on the bus and on to the Asian Side of Istanbul. We walked along the Bosphorus seeing families spending their Sunday afternoon by the sea in local parks- picnics, fishing, swimming. Then we went to the top of tower hill for dinner. It is a huge hill with a very large park at the top.
There were circumcision parties (those two words next to each other sound strange to me), wedding parties, picnics and family outings atop this hill in which you could see a grand vista of the European side of Istanbul. Following a dinner of lamb and the usual turkey accompaniments we drove to an ice cream / dessert shop for a surprise birthday cake for one of our group, Lauren. We also presented Kamil with a present from the group. Our final day in Turkey had come to an end.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216067580/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216067580/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216067580/tpod.html Wed, 23 Jul 2008 14:09:41 -0400 MY TRIP TO TURKEY

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Antolýa, Turkey

Today was the hottest day we have had. We went to the Aspendos theater where the Greeks did their tragedies and the Romans rebuilt it so they could do their own tragedies; gladiators and public executions in front of 15000 people. We then went to the Garden of Tolerance where there is a Christian Church, Jewish Synagogue and a Moslem Mosque. İ sat on the floor of the mosque, on a prayer rug and the İmam read (sang) from the Koran. It was a very moving experience.
Then we went to the 'old city' of Antalya at the harbor. After walking an awfully long way down a winding narrow stone street, by shops and a Mosque we arrived at the rather small harbor, turned around and made our way back up in the heat. Once at the top we had a chance to take a break, do some shopping, and catch our breath.
From there we boarded the bus and went to the Duden river and its waterfalls- an absolutely beautiful place. We ate there on an outsıde floating dining room. Fresh trout from the trout farm located there. We started with some wonderful bread that was flat, air filled and shaped like a large elongated frisbee. I would tear off a piece, fill it with butter and goat cheese and consume it. I think I ate an entire loaf myself.
After lunch we went to the beach. There we swam in the Mediterranean Sea. An amazing experience. In the distance were rugged mountains with a mystical haze softening their features. The water was salty andwarm, the beach was filled with smooth rock. We relaxed for several hours along with many others at this beautiful place.
Most of all İ want to share with you about the host family tonight. Every family we have met has talked about the work they are doing with others in the community to make a difference- attacking poverty, raising money for scholarships for poor children, among other things. Tonight we met a family who has two special needs children and one normal child. Their response to this challenge has been to become actively engaged in helping to set up 3 special needs schools in the Anatolia region. They are also, through their travel agency which arranges tours for tourists, working on a program to provide special needs children with travel tours- not make any money doing it. The wife, who wore a head scarf, worked in the business and is engaged in helping to raise scholarship funds for poor children to attend school.
The love the family showed was so apparently real. The experience in the home was so moving. İ did not want to leave but wanted to get to know these people better, especially the wife who had one of the most engaging smiles I have ever seen. Through Kamil İ told the family that I did not want to leave, and how impressed I was with their family. The husband, who was a very strong man gave me a big bear hug, kissed me on both cheeks, called me his brother and said through the translator-'you will always be welcomed in our home.'
The sites we have seen today have been special, swimming in the Mediterranean Sea was so exhilarating (and Judith İ am bringing home some rocks from that sea), but meeting my new Turkish friends was the real highlight of the day.
Tomorrow to Urfa.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216740120/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216740120/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216740120/tpod.html Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:47:04 -0400 MY TRIP TO TURKEY

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Istanbul, Turkey

A trip to Nevsehir would not be complete without a visit to the 4000 year old Underground_City. After Christianity spread these cities, originally built for storage by the previous residents, were greatly expanded to include a network of 100 cities connected via tunnels between them.
We left the hotel and drove to the underground city, passing women who were leading donkeys laden with items on stone streets, through fertile valleys, past people carrying loads on their heads wearing long pants and long sleeve shirts, by 2 children riding their bikes carrying plastic bags filled with loaves of bread, by low flat mountains into a small town where men were seated at tables drinking tea. Everyone in the village stared at us.
We descended into the underground city. It was built down 8 levels and had a six mile tunnel connecting it to the next city. It had an air ventilation shaft also used to raise and lower items from the city.
In the 7th and 8th Centuries AD Christians greatly expanded these cities to use them as defense against their enemies. The rock was soft and easy to carve away. But as it oxidized it became harder.
The top levels were where the animals were kept, along with storing food and supplies. They also carved out large wheels which could be rolled into place to block entrance to the different levels, blocking access. There were tunnels that required us to bend over to navigate as we walked through. It was an amazing structure.
After touring the underground city we headed to the Nevsesehir airport and flew to Istanbul.
We arrived at the airport and boarded our new van for the remainder of the trip- The Ghost Rider. Shag carpeting, neon lighting, Playboy Bunny logo on the Air vent, a solid sound system and a TV on the passenger side visor. We drove to the Golden Hill hotel and checked in. The one disappointment with the hotel was that none of us could ever access the wireless Internet network at the hotel.
We then boarded a boat and took an extended tour of the Bosphorus Sea (The Golden Horn) which was both breathtaking and relaxing.
We finished the day going to a local family's home for dinner.
The Kepek family were told we would be coming for dinner at 2:30 p.m. that afternoon. The wife summoned her mother and sister and they prepared a 3 course meal plus dessert from scratch. We had lentil soup, followed by a stew like dish with very tasty large peas. The usual salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, olive oil, and herbs was followed by an entree that included rice, stuffed peppers, lamb and potatoes. There was also a sesame seed cracker to accompany the bread. For dessert we were served baklava.
The husband was an attorney. The wife had her BS in Economics and had worked in a firm doing retirement planning until their very energetic 2 year old son had been born.
The neighborhood was composed of high rise condo like apartments along a narrow stone street. The street was filled, even when we left, with children playing who greeted us in English as we got off and on the bus.
Our after dinner conversation centered on family values. The husband had wondered about them and the movie he remembered the most was "American Beauty".
After exchanging gifts, (I got a tie), we bid good night to our gracious hosts and returned to the hotel having walked only 1.3 miles that day.
I had awoke this morning with diarrhea. I immediately took medicine and continued to through the day. I had two waves of nausea and cold sweats. While tired by the time we returned to the hotel, I had not missed anything and was starting to feel better.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216741200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216741200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1216741200/tpod.html Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:46:29 -0400 MY TRIP TO TURKEY

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Istanbul, Turkey

We were late risers today. We did not get on the bus until 8:30 am. Through very busy weekend traffic we made our way to the Dolmabahce Palace. Built in the latter part of the 19th Century as the Ottoman Empire was headed toward destruction, this palace has an incomparable opulence. One wonders what may have happened to the Empire if they had not borrowed all of the money required to build this palace from Europe and instead concentrated on building a stronger economy and military.
One English crystal chandelier, the heaviest in the world, weighs in over 4.5 tons. It is in the Ceremonial Hall which can accommodate 2500 people. The palace has 66 bathrooms and overlooks the Bosphorus Sea.
The Sultan who eventually lived in the palace (it had been ordered built by his older brother who died of TB at the age of 37) was a wrestler who weighed 330 pounds.
Two years ago this palace was the site of a meeting of the Heads of State from NATO. Bush had made a speech in the gardens area.
We then went to a very unusual place. Miniaturk.It is a garden area with many of Turkey's most outstanding structures and places in miniature. All of its major ruins, mosques, monasteries, as well as some more modern buildings and natural attractions, are built with an exacting detail in miniature. It looked like a huge mini-golf course on Islamic Acid.
The lunch we had was great fun. It was Turkish pizza. I ordered a ground beef pizza (they didn't have veggie). First they bring you wonderful Pita bread with butter, goat cheese and a terrific red tomato, red pepper sauce. Then they bring you a Turkish salad- tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, cabbage (not mixed). Finally they bring the pizza. Not one- but two 10 inch pizza. The dough, while fully cooked, is thin and not crispy. The cheese, sauce and coverings are very tasty but I can't eat more than one. Of course, afterwords it was time for tea.
Energized by the meal, we were ready for 6 hours of shopping at the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar.
The Grand Bazaar was started in the 15th Century shortly after the Ottomans conquered what was then Constantinople (Istanbul). It had several gates to enter. We went through one of the more popular ones- Beyazit.
Gold, silver, rugs, copper, pottery, textiles, souvenirs and much more are all available for negotiated sales at the Bazaar. I quickly learned that the initial mark up is extremely high. At one shop I walked away twice and the shopkeeper followed me.
One person came down to 10 Lyra for a tea set after negotiations, then asked me where I was from. When I told him America he withdraw the offer, physically pushing me away. We shopped for nearly 4 hours as we made our way through thousands of booths.
Then on to the Spice Bazaar. The smells were wonderful. Nuts, spices and other goods. It was built in the 17th Century next to the "New" Mosque. The market had been started by a sultan's wife. I got Indian and Turkish saffron, cinnamon, black pepper, ginger, winter tea, hot pepper and other spices as well, along with some pistachios for less than $25.00!
It was dinner at a local sea food restaurant next to the Bosphorus. I had grilled sea bass with the usual side dishes and breads that accompany a Turkish meal. We walked along the Sea afterwords with the moon edging over the horizon. Fireworks were exploding in the distance and lots of men and boys with giant fishing rods and reels seated on rugs on the stones eating picnics and enjoying the breeze.
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Nevsehir, Cappadocia, Turkey

A 4 hour drive through stark and stunning vistas would take us to our next stop- Nevsehir. The bus had lousy shocks and the 2 lane roads were very bumpy. We stopped for photos by the Salt Lake and then pulled into Nevsehir to pick up our guide, Hamil. We drove through the city to reach the Cappadoccia area. 60 million years ago this was an inland sea. Three volcanoes caused the water to leave and the valleys were formed by the remaining rivers. Eventually the waters went away and the landscape created some 30 million years ago is surrealistic. Fairy Chimneys, cones, mushrooms all adorn what looks like the grand canyon on acid.
A stop for lunch in a restaurant carved into the side of a hill and then on to more of the rock formations. This time to Goreme Oren Yeri where the Christians lived for centruies. St. Paul visited this area in his travels. The Churches were mind boggling. All of the homes and buildings are carved out of the side of the hills. Frescoes in the churches were beautiful and in one church there was a 6 chapter frescoe which told the life of Christ- an early frescoe powerpoint.
We stopped and toured a pottery shop built into a hill-carved out of it in fact. It was a strange structure and the home to craftsmans who had been making pottery in this cave like structure for 7 generations. We watched as the plied their crafts.
After this full day we ended at our hotel in Nevsehir called the Surban. It is a quaint building. No A/C but what it lacks in that it makes up for in its architecture. After dinner in the hotel we strolled the ancient streets of this city to the downtown area. We visited shops, had home made ice cream and watched one of only 2 master painters in Turkey do the ancient art of water painting. She painted with oil based paints on water, then transferred the image by placing a piece of paper/canvas on the water.
We ended the night on a rooftop terrace trying out a Turkish alcohol treat called Raki (Rocky).
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Sanliurfa, Sanliurfa, Turkey

After breakfast I went on a walk to buy some water. There was a small shop on the main drag which was open to the street and sold nuts, cigarettes and other convenience store items. The nuts are mostly locally grown pistaccios. I waked in and got 2 waters from the cooler. The shopkeeper smiled, and said, pointing to himself, "Armenian." I said "Oklahoman" but he was puzzled. I said "States" and again he looked confused. Then I said, "America" and he smiled very big-repeating---America. I paid for the water and then gave him a Celebrity Attractions pen. He smiled very big and handed me some candy coated nuts-which were wonderful. I went back to the hotel and another of our group ended up going to the same shop for water. Apparently the shopkeeper said Armenian again-to which he replied American and the shopkeeper showed him my pen. When I heard this I went back and took an Oklahoma state seal pin to him. He immediately put it on. It was a neat encounter.
We boarded the bus and headed out of the city toward Syria. Before the day was over we would be within 10 miles of that border. This area has been a target for Kurd separatists in their attempt to recruit support. The government has responded with an effort to improve education, increase tourism and build the economy through increased irrigation in what was once a part of the fertile crescent but over time had become dessert. It seems to be working.
As we drove along it seemed we were driving into the set for the movie Babel. The small adobe like structures surrounded by desolation with the new irrigation turning once parched fields into lush fields of veggies with families in the field doing the work. Tractors were also moving through the fields, while ever so often a horse drawn cart would slow our progress along what was once The Silk Road as we made our way to the ancient city of Harran.
The city served as a stopping point along the silk road. We toured the ruins of this city while a recent graduate of a university who was waiting to be appointed to a teaching position, shared its history with us. This 3 story structure was where the king lived and the caravans stayed on the Silk Road. Christian signs had been plastered over and Moslem symbols replaced as times changed . We viewed the ruins of a Mosque which had been the site of great scientific study,focusing on astronomy. It had a large tower and a reflecting pool which allowed them to study the movement of the stars and moon. This Mosque was from the 7th Century AD.
We were then taken to the home of a man whose family has lived in the home for over 200 years. He had 14 children, was a farmer and sold things to tourists, and was 57 years old (my age). He looked much older. He was a gracious host serving us tea and allowing the women in our group to visit with his wife. They found her seated on a rug in a garage behind an automobile. She never got up during the entire visit-the women suggested after 14 children she was entitled to stay seated.
The adobelike structures they live in are very cool. The roofs are cone shaped with a hole at the top. Structures like this are found in three locations-Greece, Italy and here.
Back on the bus for the return trip to Urfa.We were met by the pharmacists at a private high school, Murat High School. We ate at the school and later toured it. The principal joined us. We asked lots of questions about the educational system in Turkey and at this private school. It was very interesting, had a great lunch with the best baklavi I have ever eaten.
In Turkey you take a college entrance exam. 1.5 million take it. 300,000 are admitted. This is a gifted and talented high school. They give scholarships to poor students. This school had the number 1 student on the test lastyear with a perfect score. This year they had several students in the top 100.
We then toured a new hospital set to open in September. A state of the art facility that will not turn anyone away . It will provide treatments and surgies no one else in Urfa provides like cancer treatments
It was farewell to Urfa and off to the airport for an uneventful flight to Ankara. We were met at the Ankara airport yesterday by Umit Cakici. He told us
a story about two fetus in the womb which was an allegory of life
itself. He left the bus before our dinner because his wife was to undergo surgery the next day.
We went to dinner at the lovely home of Osman Nuri Sahin. He was the owner of a factory which will make dry wall after selling what must have been a very profitable concrete company. His home was the most lavish condo we had been in since the trip began. Kamil found out that it cost over $400,000 to build. The front door had a built in camera and sixteen point dead bolts. He spent the entire evening serving us our food and drink. Our co-host for the evening was a young man who had received his Phd from American schools, spoke excellent English and was a major in the Turkish State Police serving as director of the anti-terrorist division. He shared the book he has written for first responders in America.
The meal, like so many, was excellent. We had an opportunity to quiz his two high school age daughters on their educational experience, as well as getting inside information regarding the recent shooting by terrorists at the American Embassy in Istanbul.
We spent the night at a very modern hotel, built in the shape of an "A".
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Urfa, Turkey

Most of the morning was spent on planes. We left Antolia and flew to Ankara and then to Urfa where we stayed at the Otel Kimil.
We were met at the airport by a group of pharmacists who gave each of us a rose and greeted us very warmly. As İ got off the plane İ took a photo-as İ did İ saw out of the corner of my eye a policeman running my way. İ took another photo and as İ did İ heard the words..."No photo, no photo". İ put the camera away not sure why İ couldn't take a photo since there was nothing but desolation all around.
We went inside to pick up our luggage and it was very apparent that we were unusual to those around us. People openly, blatantly stared. But our hosts, as usual, were very warm and welcoming. There were 3 hosts. One very handsome with a smile that did not stop the entire visit, one who looked like Phil Collins and another who had a very heavy beard. They all spoke some English. They all were very young. They all were pharmacists. They all are a part of the Gulen movement in Turkey.
We were taken to lunch. Some foods have universal counterparts: Burritos, gyros, wraps, sandwiches. That is what we had for lunch- a great Bread, veggies, meat and other things. The bread was like a rectangular burrito. We put meat (lamb) cooked on an open charcoal fire in it along with mint (that was spicy), onion sauteed in a local pepper (İ bought some of the pepper later in the spice shop) and pepper. İt was delicious.
From there we went to the birthplace of Abraham. Street kids followed us saying - "Hay-lo", over and over. İ would say hello in Turkish and they would smile large smiles. When there was a need for the kids to move away from us, for a photo or something like that, our hosts would lovingly talk with them. rather than harshly shooing them away. It was indicative of the love shown by adults to children that we have seen inside and outside of family settings.
We walked through a bazaar- textiles, tobacco and copper. Eventually making our way across a street to a copper store. The craftsman proprietor allowed us to stamp a piece of copper. İ bought a Turkish teapot, a pepper grinder and a Turkish coffee maker-which looks like a ladle. All hand made.
Then to dinner - we made our way from the hotel into the narrow streets of the old city, a poor area filled with shops, homes, tobacco vendors and children playing until we arrived at our dinner location. The restaurant was old- older than the time of the Crusades. We ate on the rooftop which permitted us an amazing view of the ancient walls of the city.
The food was very good- eggplant, tomato, lamb, peppers and a wonderful dessert called wiggling woman- a crepe like pastry with honey and fresh pistaccios. There was an engagement party going on. The bride had a gorgeous red dress. We joined the party later-were given sugar in lace to be thrown during the ring ceremony. We had a great visit with our host families and returned to the hotel. Some of us went on a walk- and bought home made ice cream from a store called Hajii Baba (Pilgrim Father).
Urfa is in southeast Turkey close to the Syrian border and so much different than any city we have seen thus far.
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Ephesus, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey

İts very difficult to describe my feelings as I walked on the first street of this ancient city. But before we made our way to Ephesus we went to St. Johns Basilica in Seliçk (outside Ephesus). It had been a six domed church that contains the body of John the beloved disciple. We toured the ruins as our host guide Ferhat Ceylon led us through. He gave a very poignant speech at Johns grave describing how God sent people to mankind in the dark times so we may see the 'reality' or truth. These people gave their life to improve man's condition. John, he said, was one of those men.
We then went to the home of Mother Mary. Supposedly she was brought to Ephesus by John after Jesus' death. A modest home in a beautiful setting, it has since become a shrine.
Then on to the İsabey Cami (Mosque). İnside were gravestones along the long wall of the outside courtyard. A man's grave stone had a turban on top of it. Turban's were symbols and each wrapped in a special way to denote the individual's position in life ( a governmental official, an imam, etc.) A women's stone did not have the turban, and usually had flowers on it. The mosque itself was covered with prayer rugs-some hundreds of years old.
We then went to the ruins of the Church of the Sleeping Seven. My initial thought when İ heard the name was that there were certainly more than 7 people sleeping at any of the church services I attended. The story goes that John had 7 followers who went out after his death to share the good news. They were persecuted by the government and at one point were being chased by soldiers. They ran into a cave and hid. The soldiers could not find them so they put a large rock at the entrance of the cave and left them to die. They fell asleep and awoke 323 years later and the rock had been removed. They went into the village to purchase bread using the coins they had. The merchant was shocked at the coins, inquired of the seven where they had obtained them, and heard their story. The local priest was called who questioned the seven and realized that a miracle had happened. Subsequently a church was built at the entrance to the cave.
Before going to the church we had ordered lunch at the bottom of the hill where the church was located. We had Gozleme (thin quesadilla like pancakes). We watched as a women rolled out the paper thin dough on a large stone while another, younger woman filled the dough with the requested ingredients and cooked it in an open fire. Mine was filled with cheese and veggies. We sat under a tent like structure, open on all sides, on pıllows surrounding a table- shoes off, loungıng on the floor.
After lunch we started at the back of Ephesus. Three earthquakes over time had made this once proud harbor into an inland city situated 6 kılometers from the Aegean Sea. Excavation work continues sınce only 10% of the city has been revealed at this time.
Everywhere one stood the sense of hıstory was pervasive. The massiveness of thıs city is apparent wherever you look. İt is hard for me to comprehend, even assuming thousands of slaves, how these structures and roads were built wıth the tools and technology of the day. The library and theater are the two most overwhelming structures. The theater sat 30,000 people. The lıbrary housed the largest collection of scrolls of the day. İnto thıs city of commerce and intellect had come Paul to present his case of a new way to perceive reality. His claıms were listened to by other learned men who had come from the far corners of the world to thıs major metropolis. Toward the end of our visit we sat under a fig tree, bathed by a breeze from the now more distant Aegean Sea. What a day and what a place.
At the front of the city we went into a small village bustling wıth shops which catered to the tourists. Some of us found our way ınto a small cafe filled wıth older men of the village who were sittıng under the thatch discussing world problems, drinking Turkish tea. We bought a local beer, Effus, and relaxed in the shade. İ purchased a local wine before boardıng the bus which took us to the airport.
We said good bye to our host, gatherıng hıs 'hotmaıl' email address and his street address-giving him a Celebrity Attractions pen for which he seemed to be excessively thankful. Ferhat is a math teacher, his wife teaches social studies. They had worked extremely hard planning our two day stay ın İzmir- and he had learned and shared with us a great deal about the hıstory of the places we had visited.
We arrived ın Antolya and were taken to a lavish spa to stay. We had a very nice buffet dınner but we had to eat quickly since they were getting ready to close, before retiring. The end of another ıncredıble day.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1215981180/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1215981180/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/edpayton/1/1215981180/tpod.html Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:36:30 -0400 MY TRIP TO TURKEY

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Izmir, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey

We were up at 4:30 am and off to the airport. Because of ticketing and baggage problems we almost did not make it-but our good traveling luck prevailed and we landed in Izmir to be greeted by 15 people who gave each of us a rose and individually welcomed to İzmır.
Off to Breakfast- shoes off-on the floor, reclining on pillows for a great meal. We introduced ourselves through a translator to our hosts. I explained I was in the entertainment business. Two of the hosts said that they had seen me in a movie. The entire breakfast of cheeses, honey, fruit, olives and more was entirely organic. I was treated to homemade sheep's yogurt before we left.
Then on to our hotel before a two hour bus trip to Bergama, a city founded by the Greeks in the 8th century. A 3 mile wall had encircled the hilltop city that included 3 temples, a 10,000 seat theater and a Palace. Cicada sang as we explored the ruins.
Next a rug shop in the town below. Turkish tea and Turkish delight were served as we viewed beautiful hand made rugs from throughout the region. I bought two. They are being shipped home. There is a story with each of them.
Lunch was a wonderful picnic in a park which contained a bath house where Cleopatra bathed when she was in the area.
Dinner was in a host home. Our host was the owner of a textile factory. 18 years ago he started working in one and now he owns one. He has a contract with H&M and makes Tshirts and hoodies. Check your stuff Adam- it may say Made in Turkey.
He has two sons, one Adams age and a 5th grader. I played balloons with the 18 month old daughter of his business partner. The meal was amazing with the very best grape leaf wraps yet which I dipped in a yogurt dip.
We talked through a translator for a long time and then visited a brides street party (she was getting married the next day). Dancing and music in the street. We were introduced as The Americans and were applauded.
Then off to an ice cream shop. Homemade ice cream-all organic-all with fresh fruit from regional farmers. They prepared a Sundae for each of us.
Then after 20 hours of going it was home to bed.
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