TravelStream™ news feed for member diannemurray on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/diannemurray en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:24:48 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1256687971/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1256687971/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1256687971/tpod.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:24:48 -0500 And now for something completely different - a four star cruise!

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Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

   Tuesday 27th October 2009          Champagne Bay, Espiritu Santo, VanuatuThe weather is pretty ordinary when we get on deck in the morning, with low cloud, rain and a breeze off the sea. This is a tender landing, so have to go down to the Vista Lounge to get our tender tickets, and take all our gear with us, because we are not sure how well the tender system works. We don't have a long wait and proceed forward and down to deck 4 to climb aboard the tender/lifeboats. Pretty crowded, even without life jackets, must be very cosy with 150 people and lifejackets. The landing is at a proper concrete wharf, and is no problem. We are expecting a deserted beach, with just the cruise passengers, so surprised to find rows of traditional huts with all types of trinkets and food for sale, and rows of vehicles parked behind. Despite this, it is still really beautiful.There is a shelter near the landing set up by the cruise staff, and Dianne takes advantage of a gullible security man to deposit our unwanted baggage while we go off snorkeling together. We make an unfortunate decision to go in off the rocks near the landing so we don’t have to swim across the path of the tenders. The rocks are razor sharp and even sitting on the flippers doesn’t help a lot when putting on the Lycra suits. Dianne manages to leave a piece off the backside of her suit on the rocks. The water is pretty cold, but not bitter, so we are able to stay in a long while, even swimming out to an isolated reef to which others take the local outrigger canoes.The coral is quite healthy, but not all that colourful under the leaden skies. We cut back in to the coast, then swim along the steep, timbered shoreline to the main bay, crossing the tender path, rather than getting out on the sharp rocks. Back on shore, Dianne makes the mistake of going back to the security tent, finding that there has been a change of shift, and an officious young woman is now running it, and she refuses to take responsibility for the gear. Loaded down with extra gear, we walk the shore through the market area to the south end, where we ask some cruise passengers to keep an eye on our gear while we snorkel together for half an hour. There are some good anemones this end, complete with clown fish, but there is a sandy beach with waves, so the visibility is not so good. Back on shore, we decide to lend our gear to our benefactors, with them taking it back on board. This cut back the gear we were carrying, so we could do a walk. Back at the vehicles on the landing end of the beach, we find that the locals are offering trips to one of the blue holes. We can almost scrape enough money together for the trip (didn’t bring much as were led to believe it was a DESERTED beach) but are short for the entry to the site. It has now started to rain, and we settle for a walk out along the road in, finding another, almost deserted, beach, less sandy, but with a lot more coral outcrops. We are surprised that we cannot see the ship from here. There are houses here, but no people, probably all down at the ship. We take a shore path back, passing a ruin which has been enveloped by tree roots, reminiscent of Angkor Wat, but do not find the sea on this side of the peninsular.The weather has deteriorated, so we return to the ship and a well-earned late lunch and a rest. On the way out just on dark, we take photos through the rain at the extensive chain of islands around Champagne Bay.Wednesday 28th October 2009,       Port Vila, VanuatuWe don’t get up on deck until after we have berthed at the new commercial wharf, behind Iririki Island, in the middle of the harbour. There is a thriving market set up along the road from the port, and a long queue of vans and taxis. The wharf is still under construction, and the construction workforce is doing calisthenics in the compound, Communist Chinese Style. On the road outside, we are besieged by taxi and van drivers, but decide to walk at least out of the port area, walking up the hill toward the main town, taking photos over the port. Towards the top of the hill, a minivan stops, and we accept a ride to Numbawan (pidgin) for ten dollars. We get out at the yacht club, take some photos, look at the duty free shop, and make our way into the main town in search of replacements for Dianne’s forgotten blood pressure tablets. No luck at the first pharmacy, but they have them at the second. No prescription required, but not cheap, with band aids and Compedes for Dianne’s foot damage. We have to do a deal with Vatus and Aussie Dollars. It shouldn’t be as hard as they make it, and we have possibly been bamboozled, but cop it sweet. Dianne wants to have a look at Hideaway Island, so we head out of town to look for a bus. We encounter an empty minibus outside the duty free store, and the driver offers us a fare to the island for 400 vatu each, on his way to taking a load of cruise passengers to the Cascades. Dianne goes to get change, and arrives back just in time to get in the van. The other passengers thought they had done a bulk rate to hire the van to take them to the Cascades, so are surprised to find they keep picking up more passengers, with the fare going to the driver, rather than reducing their hire rate. Driver also took some $3  casual fares into the town. The outskirts of the town are pretty industrial, leading to the beach. Our driver stops at a roadside stall to buy some bougna, a traditional Kanak meal of meat or fish and vegetables wrapped in banana leaves, which can be cooked one of two ways – baked by hot stones in an earth pit or boiled in a large pot. We interpret what he says to the vendor as "I will pay on the way back, after I get paid." He drops us at the beach, where there is a pontoon with a three young women waiting for the ferry. They are joined by two women who appear to be fellow guests on the island. It would appear there was major partying going on last night. The flat aluminium barge ferry is indeed free, but on getting to the island, we find the casual rate has increased from 500 Vatu to 1000. Looking around at the shallow water, overcast sky, and ordinary looking reef, we decide we have had all the look we need, and return to the wharf, expecting a long wait for a return trip, but the boatman takes us straight away, without any resentment. Back on shore, we decline the offers of the taxi men, and walk toward the main road. A van intercepts us, and offers a ride back for 400 Vatu each, which we accept. On the way, we pick up a young woman, and, as is the custom, we take her all the way home, through parts of the town we would not expect to see, including the University of the South Pacific, which is great as it saves us having to explore on foot.  Back in town, we walk the waterfront, check out the market and waterfront, internet at a typically obscurely placed cyber café, then climb the hill past where Bacardi (the yacht on which Murray spent 7 weeks sailing around the South Pacific in 1972) tied up, taking photos on the way. There are good views over the harbour, but not over the lagoon to the east, so we walk a very long way over the hill and down to the landing at Le Lagon. We intended to go out to Erakor Island to snorkel, but the weather is not all that flash, and there is a restrictive notice concerning the use of the ferry. We decide to give it a miss, and head back up the hill, finding a van who is willing to take us back to the ship for the 760 Vatu we have left. Fortunately we have another passenger who lives all the way out at the Pango Village, nearly all the way around the peninsular to the port, so once again we get to do some easy sightseeing. We return past Le Lagon, and back to the ship. The ship leaves a  little late, as the last passengers were forty minutes late getting back. They didn’t seem very worried, but were extremely lucky not to be left behind. Get some good photos of the cliffs and coastline on the way out, and the local boats doing the sunset cruise.Thursday 29th October 2009       Lifou, Loyalty Islands, New CaledoniaJust to the East of New Caledonia’s largest island, Grand Terre, and separated from it by 100 kilometres of ocean, stretches the archipelago of coral atolls known as the Loyalty Islands. Lifou is the largest (with a population of 10,000) and the administrative centre of the Loyalty Islands Province of New Caledonia, itself a French overseas territory. However Lifou is Kanak in character, rather than French. Lifou is made up of limestone – layers of raised coral on a foundation of volcanic mountains that disappeared under the sea long ago. We moor in the Bay of Santal, at Easo Peninsular on the West coast, which is quite beautiful, with a lovely beach, with a church perched on a nearby cliff, and lots of dense greenery around.  However the weather is not all that promising, with overcast skies and an offshore wind, but we decide to beat the rush on the tenders, and get organized early and our one of the first down to the Vista Lounge for our tender tickets. Get onto the tender fairly quickly. Just as we are arriving at the landing, Dianne notices that we haven’t got the snorkeling equipment bag. Murray  has left it back in the lounge, so volunteers to go back on the return trip. Remember to get his Cruise Card out of the backpack (can’t get on without it) and leaves almost immediately on the return trip, with an American WW2 vet who had a quick one minute look at the island, then returned, saying this was his second visit to “France”. There are delays at the ship, and it takes Murray nearly an hour to locate the gear and return to the shore. So much for our great plan to beat the crowds!Meanwhile, Dianne has checked out the buses and taxis offering tours, and has set up a trip on a bus, after organizing enough people to make the trip worthwhile for the bus, with the detour to Jokin Church thrown in. There is a delay of 45 minutes till a vehicle returns, so we have a quick, abortive trip (took the wrong path) to the church at the top of the hill, then down to the far end of the beach. Get back early to find the rules have changed because a 45 minute car trip has only taken 25 minutes. The tourists are shat, but this gives us a car instead of a bus. An Argentine/Australian couple have tickets and are ready to go, so we head off, with the elderly black driver strictly instructed to take two full hours, and go via Jokin. Apparently the government has arranged some lectures for the locals to teach them what the tourists want, but the taxi-drivers have refused to go.  It shows!Princess has its own tours here, but the locals are trying to earn some money as well.  They are trying hard, but are not terribly well-organised, and some of their helpers let them down.  They look like they have scrounged every vehicle on the island, especially lots of school buses.We find immediate confusion, as we ask him to stop at a prominent church on the way He stops, for about 10 seconds and then sets off, thinking this is all we want.  Attempt further explanation in fractured French, and he seems to get the message, so we get out and take photos at the church, then head off for Jokin at the northern end of the island. There is further confusion when we pass a landmark that the Lonely Planet says marks the turnoff to Jokin, but we are reassured at a second turnoff with an actual road sign. The roads are well surfaced, but narrow, winding and heavily vegetated. Our driver only seems to have two speeds – slow and very fast, and has a limited appreciation of the function of a clutch, but we proceed without incident across the largely flat terrain of the island. The vegetation is generally dry bush with 6 to 10 metre trees, and a patch of thicker, greener forest in the centre of the islandWe encounter a very slow car, which appears lost, near Jokin - turns out to be a hire car driven by people from the cruise. The signposting is pretty ordinary, but they arrive at Jokin some time after us. The church at Jokin is not the high church we have seen in pictures, but there is a viewpoint near it with fabulous views over the cliffs, down to a sheltered cove with clear deep water between coral bombies. Looks as good as we have seen anywhere in the world, and we know there are stairs down to it, but it is not on the trip plan, and there are other people in the car. We take lots of photos, do a lot of drooling over the railing, then head off for the  Luecila beach and the capital at We on the East coast.We travel through more open scenery, with pasture and agriculture, plus the typical peripheral businesses in the low rent area outside the town. The beach is long and sandy, but exposed to the prevailing wind, with the outer reef a long way out. We have read that this is one of the world’s loveliest beaches, but it’s certainly not today. There is obviously some coral off the beach, but it doesn’t look promising, so we head for the limestone cliffs at the left end of the beach, and enter the water right at the end of the beach.The water is bitterly cold when we get in, and we have to swim fast to warm up. We notice the upper level of the water is very fresh and cold and you have to dive down to get into clearer, warmer water. However, you can only do so much of this, so it was a pretty cold swim. The further left we went, the better the coral looked, but overall, it was pretty disappointing. Getting out, the water didn’t seem as cold, but this was probably due to numbness. Walked back to join our fellow travelers, and found that he had a full set of snorkel gear, and probably would have been happy to stay at Jokin, but too late for that.  Seems like we’ll have to come back one day!We have a look at the town of We, with stores, government buildings and a pleasant sea-front, but nothing special, then head back at high speed, arriving back right on our two hours. Dianne has read that there is a good snorkeling spot on the west side of the peninsular, so take all our gear up the hill, along towards the Chapelle Notre Dame de Lourdes , then down another road to the right to the water on the Bay of Jinek There is a good setup, with change rooms (locked)), stairs into the water, and a basic kiosk. We leave our bags with the woman in the kiosk, and head into the water. It looks similar to Jokin, with sandy channels between coral bombies, although not nearly as good. Still, it is the best we have seen on this trip, and once we go left into deeper water around the point, it is pretty good, with a 15 metre wall with a flat, shallow top and lots of swim-and-see-throughs, and serious numbers of fish suspended in the current off some of the isolated bombies. At this stage Murray is dog-paddling furiously to keep warm, so we call it quits. We buy a $3 Coke from the kiosk woman as a reward for looking after our bags, and continue on up to the church.The climb up to the church is not as long or steep as we feared, and there are good views from the adjacent platform, to both the Bay of Santal and Bay of Jinek. Get a close look at the spindly pine trees which cling precariously to the limestone cliffs. Investigate the track which continues past the church, then return to the main beach via a traditional thatched circular hut, and a pig pen ($2 Per photo). Back at the landing, take photos of the colourful locals and trinket market, then back to the ship for the traditional rest.On the way out of the anchorage, get photos of the coastline where we snorkeled, and the church on the limestone headland, plus the long coastline around the main bay.Friday 30th October                   Isle of Pines, New CaledoniaThe Isle of Pines is 32 square kilometers, and is mainly occupied by about 2,200 Kunies,  clans of people of Melanesian and Polynesian ancestry. The main economy is tourism, and the people are Catholic and quite  religious. In 1911 the Kunies were given back general control of their island by the French colonial government. In a way this makes the Isle of Pines unique – its traditional way of life, the close clan structure and local government remain very much under the control of the indigenous inhabitants. We go up on deck with the ship already at anchor well off Presquile Kuto at Isle of Pines. Do a circular video, plus photos of the landmarks, and prepare to go ashore in the tender without snorkel equipment, as we’ve decided to walk to the top of Pic N’ga, at 262metres the island’s highest point. It is a long haul ashore in the tender, and we land at a small boat pier at Kuto, north of the major wharf and ramp, near the remains of the old governor’s house. Walk past the welcoming dancers and tour buses, and across the narrow isthmus to the beach which has the small sacred rock in the middle. The beach and shoreline look pretty good, with the local pines, and large wide spreading trees along the road. Walk past the sacred rock to the road which leads to the track to Pic N’ga, then off at the turnoff to the track, which starts as a road through dense scrub, then turns into a narrow track which follows a dry watercourse. See a private path off to the right, but follow the watercourse until we hit dryer, rockier raised land which leads to the climb proper. The climb starts as a wide bare track, straight up a ridge, with exposed rocks and a lot of loose gravel, not too bad on the way up, but difficult on the way down in adventure sandals. We are passed by a lone male walker on the way up, and encounter several French-speaking groups on their way down. We start to get good views back to the ship not far into the climb, and views over the ridges to other parts of the island from further up. There are a lot more outlying islands than Murray remembers from his 1972 visit, and the overall impression of the island is very beautiful, particularly when the sun comes out. Take photos from the cross near the top, and from the ridge which extends towards Vao (the island’s main centre) right at the top. Murray tightens his sandal straps at the top to counter the loose gravel on the way down, regrets it later as the straps cut into the ankles. Back at the main road, we complete the road circuit around the resort, and walk the fine white sand beach to the resort restaurant, where we walk along the beachside verandah and look into the restaurant proper. There are a lot of French speakers in the restaurant. We move on to the bus tour assembly area, take photos of the tribal dancers, talk to people waiting, and establish our presence in the line before having a quick look into the old compound around the governors house, then join the queue for the bus. The previous bus trip resulted in a confrontation with over-assertive French queue jumpers, almost leading to a punch-up, so we are on our best behaviour, and get seats in the middle of the bus when it turns up. The bus driver/guide is quite informative (he’s obviously been going to the lectures on what tourists want). There are no Princess tours on this island – I suspect the locals want to do their own thing.  The tour is A$15 each or 1,000 French Pacific francs each, which is very reasonable.  They also give us a printed information sheet. He takes us to a  beautiful viewpoint at the Bay of St Maurice. Above the beach a fence of carved totem poles encloses a Catholic statue of Jesus, as well as two steles – one of them is a memorial to commemorate the arrival of the missionary Marist Father Goujon in 1848 and the other to commemorate 18 local people who died during the First World War. Interesting mixture of Christian and traditional faith. The water in the background is a fabulous turquoise colour. It’s a really special place. There is also a handy cylindrical French loo nearby.Next stop is the fishing village at Bay of St Joseph, with traditional outrigger craft anchored out, and modern aluminum and Fibreglass runabouts on shore. The nets they use have large mesh, and really thick cord. They must be after tuna or something pretty big. There is a large outrigger hull under construction nearby, cut out of a single tree, and hollowed out with chainsaws and adzes.From here we move on to the village of Vao, with a Catholic high school, a large church, a large priest’s residence with interesting totem pole gateposts, and a nun’s residence with a seriously rusty roof. We get a photo of a quite cheerful and friendly European nun on the church steps. On the way through the village, the driver points out the town hall, post office and council depot. We return to the ship for a quick feed, which develops into something more, then reluctantly leave all our valuables and go ashore with just the snorkeling gear. It is now blowing and raining, and we use the ship’s striped blue towels as best we can to shelter from the rain until we reach the trees at the sacred rock. Get into our gear, leave the clothes and towels tied to a tree, and get in for a chilly swim right around the rock. The snorkeling isn’t too bad, in spite of the weather. See some good anemones, swim under the rock overhangs on the shoreline, and see a large group of leaf fish, then a small stingray which has a pale grey colour and looks dead, but disappears at high speed when disturbed. Head back to the ship on one of the last tenders, still in our Lycra suits, up to the room for a long, hot shower, then rest. It’s definitely been a LONG day, and we’re starting to falter after five straight days ashore.Later we do video and photos of the departure. A previous cruise ship ran aground, and was stuck for 7 hours. We were luckier, but managed to stir up a lot of sand while manoeuvering.  MP videoed the anchor being raised by incredibly noisy machinery. Spend a fair bit of the evening in the deck level spa, with a fairly rough bunch, who suffered a couple of grog-induced incidents.31st October 2009          Noumea, New CaledoniaMurray is up early to record the arrival into Noumea from just outside the entrance light all the way to the wharf. New Caledonia, just north of the Tropic of Capricorn, is made up of an archipelago comprising the main island Grand Terre (the capital is Noumea), Ile of Pines, the Loyalty Islands and tiny Iles Belep. Scattered around it at considerable distances are various dependencies.Murray was here on the yacht in 1972, and we were both here at Club Med for a week in 1982 so there is not a lot we want to see, plus after hectic days on shore, we’re just about worn out.   The views as we sail in are spectacular, with high, cloud-topped mountains behind the protected harbour. We are berthing at the container wharf, a couple of kms from the centre of town where the information from the ship indicates we will be. In the next bay, there is a group of one-design yachts engaged in intense competition, with an umpire in a rubber ducky circling the fleet. We descend to the wharf, and find that we cannot walk off the wharf, but must use the free shuttle buses provided. The shuttle bus drops us at the main wharf where we were scheduled to tie up. From here we walk to Coconut Palm Place, the main square in the city, then from there head slowly for MacDonald’s, where we want to use their wi-fi on our netbook. Walk the reverse direction of the Lonely Planet walking tour route. This takes us up some very steep steps to the viewpoint above the cathedral, where we encounter a large section of the cruise passengers on the city tour train. We get good views over the city and the harbour, and back over the hinterland, and down to the southern bays and beaches.Back down at the Cathedral, we chance upon a couple of local wedding ceremonies, with colourful Kanak guests, and get video and still shots of it. Take photos inside the large cathedral, then continue through European looking streets, with occasional colonial cottages, to MacDonald’s.There is wi-fi, according to a sign on the window, but Dianne can’t get into it. Ask a young guy who is texting on an I-phone, who gives her the code, which must be on your receipt when you buy something, which we don’t want to do, as we only have 500 CPF left, enough to internet in a real cyber café. The session is slow, but we get to look at the domain web site with the house photos on it, which we have not previously seen.  The house is being open for the first time today.Walk down to the enormous, new marina, with hundreds of yachts, some very flash, some weathered genuine cruising yachts, some pretty strange. The water in the marina is quite clean, and the coral growing on the shore is quite healthy and colourful, with some large reef fish. Walk back to the shuttle bus via the now-deserted markets (it’s Saturday afternoon), and are co-opted to shepherd a slightly disoriented and fairly frail old male passenger back to the ship for lunch.Later, back into town, two of us on the shuttle bus, to walk the town and find an internet, to see if we have any further updates.  Blow most of our remaining French Pacific francs on half an hour of internet, then back to the ship. Murray takes more photos and video of the harbour and town on the way out, and discusses  the yacht racing with a fellow yachtie on the top deck.1st-2nd November 2009                 at seaThe final two days are spent much the same as the other sea days.  We’re now looking forward to getting home. Sunday there is the Captain’s farewell cocktail party, another formal night.  There is also an extravaganza lunch buffet, which we don’t eat at, but take photos.  Dianne also attends a culinary demonstration followed by a tour of the galley.  We also attend a very interesting “Navigation@sea” lecture.  Murray also has his last Engineers get-together.  Monday is mainly spent packing and vegging.3rd November 2009                  arrival back in Sydney                Murray’s up on deck early.  Dianne is somewhat later, but can see where the boat is from the webcam on the TV, and is up on deck before we go under the Harbour Bridge.  We’re one of the first off the boat at 8am, but then have to wait a while as one of our bags has been placed in the wrong line, and takes a while to find.  Adam arrives with our car, and we drop him off at work, then home to drop the bags off, then to Lisa’s to catch up with our two little granddaughters and our niece and her two young girls.  Turns into quite a party, with a number of family members.  It’s also Melbourne Cup Day, and Dianne’ s birthday, so plenty to celebrate. 
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1255352644/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1255352644/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1255352644/tpod.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 19:06:27 -0500 And now for something completely different - a four star cruise!

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Rabaul, Papua New Guinea

As usual, our carefully laid plans for preparation for the trip are upset when our Roseville tenants give notice, so spend nearly three weeks working there, getting it ready for the next tenant.   The Saturday before we are due to leave we finally get a tenant, only to have them back out on the Monday.  Dianne had been in touch with a couple of estate agents,  who told her that properties were selling quickly at present,  so on Tuesday we make the decision to sell, after renting for eleven years, and owning for thirty years. We then spend the next three days working till late at night getting it ready for sale.  Arrange to have a stylist bring in furniture etc, and have the first open for inspection before we get back, as we hope to sell before the Xmas slow-down.  We get back three days after the house was first opened, and exchange contracts with a buyer three days later.  More travel coming up – we now have more time AND more money!Friday 16th October 2009    Sydney – Dawn Princess towards BrisbaneDrag ourselves out of bed, and pack. Normally we pack the bare minimum, but this time we go mad with power, as we're getting a lift to the boat, which is moored at Pyrmont, just across the water from us in Balmain East (in fact we take a photo of it from our backyard in the morning).   We’re returning to the same place, and there is no baggage limit, so end up with LOTS of luggage ( in borrowed large roller cases- our normal ones are too small). We will need more than normal, especially as there are a couple of formal nights, and we also intend going snorkeling. Also pack some alcohol supplies, as the Cruise Critic website assures us that, despite statements to the contrary, the staff on the boat don’t worry about taking alcohol on board, and each cabin has its own fridge.Do some last-minute shopping that we haven’t had time for during the week, then pick up Adam (our son) from his office, and finally get to the boat just after 2pm (Boarding is from 12.30-3pm). We hop out with all our gear, and Adam gets to keep the car (with its newly-installed baby car-seat for our one-month old and four-month old granddaughters to use) for the next eighteen days.Find our inside cabin (the cheapest type ) on Deck 11, drop off our gear, and head to the Horizon Court  on Deck 14 for a quick lunch from the buffet.  Back to our room, where the rest of our gear has now arrived, and start unpacking.  The boat was due to depart at 4pm, but now told that it has been delayed till 5.30pm, so decide to have a quick nap while we wait , as we are absolutely exhausted from our very hectic week. Woken at 5.30pm by announcement that we’re about to sail.We climbed up to the top deck as we prepared to depart. Take photos of our unit from the boat  deck.  It is quite exciting as we pass under the harbour  bridge, with very little room to spare. Once it’s dark we head downstairs, to settle into ship life.Ship life on board the Dawn PrincessThe Dawn Princess is a 4 star cruise boat, which holds 2272 passengers (1973 on this cruise – mainly Australians, with 28 Americans, 6 Canadians, 6 Germans and a sprinkling of other nationalities) and 922 crew.   It is 261 metres (857 feet) long, 32 metres (105 feet) wide, and has a displacement capacity of 39,997 tons. It has an eight metre (26 feet) draught.You can eat formal meals (usually four courses) three times a day, as well as afternoon tea, in the formal restaurants.  There is fixed seating at night, and open seating during the day.  As well there is the Horizon Court, which is open 24 hours a day with continually changing buffet meals.  You can also eat at the pizzeria or Windjammers for hamburgers, pies and chips.  If you’re still feeling hungry, you can always have an ice-cream at Riviera, or a cookie from the girl, in a fancy uniform, who comes around with a trolley to all the people lounging on the pool deck in the afternoon. All this is included in the cruise cost. For an extra fee you can dine at the Steakhouse. One of the challenges of the cruise is not to eat TOO much. We decided we would have the dessert every night (and I’m ashamed to admit, some lunches as well), but to make up for it we would not take the lifts, but only use the stairs.  As the restaurants, theatres etc were on Levels 5,6 and 7, and our cabin on Level 11, and the Horizon Court on Level 14, we certainly got some exercise going up and down the ship, with the result that Dianne put on less than half a kilo ( I thought it would be much worse) and Murray put on 2 kg. Obviously some people didn’t have this rule, and they’d done a number of cruises before, as we were amazed at the number of OBESE people on the boat, as well as plenty of overweight people. Previously we had mainly seen this sort of obesity in America.A typical restaurant dinner menu would be a choice of three appetizers, followed by choice of four soups or salad, followed by choice of six main courses, followed by choice of at least six desserts. If you can’t find what you want from this, there are half a dozen dishes which are available every night. Dress for the dining room is smart casual, except for three formal nights, when dress was formal (dinner suit or ordinary suit).  There was also a Champagne Waterfall, and a cocktail party before two of these. An example of one night’s menu is:AppetizersMarinated Seafood Salad and Avocado, wild lime dressingOrange & Grapefruit Cocktail in Grand Marnier and MintFlaky Puff Pastry Case filled with Chicken, Mushroom and Sauce SupremeSoups &  SaladsPepper Pot Soup with Red Beans and BeefCream of Green Asparagus with Tapioca Pearls and Brioche Croutons Chilled Cream of Pear and Ginger soupGrilled vegetables and Hearts of Romaine Lettuce (with Russian, Balsamic Vinaigrette or Low-Fat Tomato dressing)Main CoursesLinguine Pasta with Clams (white wine and herbs)Arborio Risotto with Artichokes (Rosemary Grilled Vegetables)Monkfish Fillet with Munthari Butter Sauce (Garden Vegetables and Couscous)Seared Sea Scallops with Tomato and Caper Sauce (Wilted spinach and Parsley Potatoes)Roasted Tom Turkey with all the TrimmingsRoasted Prime Rib with Natural Jus (Grilled Tomato, corn-on-the-cob and Jacket Potato)DessertSemi-frozen Cookie and Cream Parfait (hone-bourbon sauce)Sweet Mud Pie (Calvados-Vanilla Anglaise)Warm Mango Strudel (Mango Citrus Salsa)Sugar-Free Chocolate-Tapioca Pudding (whipped cream and Almonds)Wild Berry Ice CreamKahlua Mascarpone Ice CreamPine-Orange SorbetArtisan Cheeses, Fig & Walnut BreadSliced Seasonal Fresh FruitWe were not 100% happy with the fixed seating.  We purposely chose to sit at a table for ten, so that there would be a good group.  For the first night this was so, but four of the people (who had been on the 104-day around the world cruise) got off in Brisbane, and we were left with only six people for the rest of the cruise.  The other four people were lovely (a couple in their mid-eighties celebrating their 54th wedding anniversary, and two girls - who were a couple), but they would not have been our first choice to have dinner with for eighteen nights.  It could have been much worse if they weren’t nice!  We found the open seating at lunchtime much better.  When you arrived, you could choose to sit by yourself, or be put into a group table.  You met a lot more people this way, and we had some very interesting lunches. Every evening you receive a copy of the "Princess Patter" which details the next day’s activities. There is also TV in your room with a number of channels, including a number directly related to the cruise, such as a webcam taken from the ship, another with details of upcoming events, and showing videos taken from the previous day’s excursions.Days and nights follow a fairly similar pattern when we’re not in port. During the day there are games such as ping pong tournaments, scavenger hunts, goofy golf, trivia, pictionary etc etc. As well there are scholarship@sea lessons in things such as bridge and computers (for a fee). There are also destination lectures on the area we are travelling through, and enrichment lectures by a raconteur.  There is a gym with free use of the equipment, and some free classes, but most, such as the yoga, cost about $13 per class. There is a day spa, with VERY expensive massages and treatments.There are also wine-tastings (for a fee), photography classes (for a fee), expensive ($45 per hour) internet and art auctions.At night there is music in various bars before and after dinner, and a live show in the Princess Theatre, with a smaller entertainment in the Vista Lounge.  There are movies under the Stars on the large outdoor screen. There is a library, a casino, and three pools and about five spas, three of which are for adults only (thank heavens – weren’t many children on board as wasn’t school holidays, but those that were made their presence felt in the pools and spas). There is a communal jigsaw set up in the library, which ends up taking up a lot of our time.There is also a Golf Simulator (for a fee) which we don’t check out, as neither of us are Golf players.Get-togethers of various groups are arranged.  One is for engineers, which Murray goes to.  They meet three times over the course of the cruise.We had worried about three days at a time at sea, but find there is plenty to keep us occupied.The cruise line also arranges lots of shore excursions (which are VERY expensive),  none of which we took. When we were researching the cruise, came across the Cruise Critic website (www.cruisecritic.com) which has all sorts of information about the various cruise companies, boats etc, and even has a forum for EVERY cruise.  We went onto this site, and met-up (in cyber-space) with about 45 people from our cruise, many of whom had done lots of cruises, and gave us lots of good information (such as taking a powerboard if you have lots of electronic equipment, as only had one power point in cabin; reality of taking liquor onboard as against the stated rules etc etc).  One of the people organized a tour of Rabaul for US$45 each, which turned out to be better than the boat one which cost $A149.  We used the same company to organize our own personal snorkeling trip in the afternoon (which cost US$95 for the two of us).The discounted cruise price of $2610 each plus $10 per day each for tipping (less a credit of $200 each, which basically covered the tipping) was particularly good value, considering it covered transport, accommodation, unlimited restaurant quality food, and entertainment.  Drinks were reasonably priced ($7 for a glass of wine, $10 for a cocktail, $5 for a light beer).  You could take the cruise and basically not spend another cent, or you could spend thousands of dollars extra.Would we do another cruise?Our first cruise was seven days in the Caribbean about 13 years ago, with one day at sea, and six different ports in six days.  We were surprised to find that we enjoyed it.This cruise was a lot longer (18 days) with 10 days at sea, and eight different ports.  We were definitely ready to get off by the end of the trip, but overall we thoroughly enjoyed it.  It was a real novelty to actually relax on a holiday, have good food, good accommodation, and fellow travelers we could converse with in a common language.  We certainly wouldn’t like to do all our travel this way, but it was a pleasant change.  It is also a great way to see a number of islands at a reasonable price.  We would be less -interested in taking a cruise that went to a series of places that were easily accessible by land.So, the answer is yes, we would do another cruise in the future, if we were drawn to the itinerary, which is different to a lot of people on the cruise, who saw the shore days as an interruption to the ship life that they loved.Saturday October 17 is spent at sea. Meet up with people on Cruise critic website and organize Rabaul trip.Our first port is Brisbane, where we’re met by a fellow traveler we met over the internet, Lynn Marsh. Also meet up with Evan, Murray’s brother. As we’ve been to Brisbane many times before, spend the time chatting, and doing the last-minute shopping we didn’t have time for in SydneyMon, Tues, Wed 19-20-21st October – spent at sea. Dinner on the Monday is preceded by the Captain’s Welcome Party with Champagne waterfall, where over 700 glasses are stacked on top of each other, and champagne is poured over them, and falls like a waterfall until all are filled. Dress for dinner this night is formal.Thursday22 nd October 2009                    Rabaul, New GuineaUp early on the way in to take photos and video of the volcano and coast line, which is pretty impressive, in spite of the overcast sky.     Surprised how close we are passing to a sandbank until we see waves passing under it. It is a bank of floating pumice. There are three major cones on the right, with some impressive cliffs and outcrops obscured in the smoke from the active cone, and a large, vegetated cone on the left, which was active in 1994, and deposited most of the ash on the town. The 1994 eruption buried much of Rabaul under two metres of ash.  The port has recovered, but most of the governmental and economic offices, and a lot of the people, have moved to Kokopo, about 15 kms away. Meet with the Cruise Critic group in the nightclub, and are assigned group leaders, then proceed to  Deck 4 to register our Cruise Cards and exit into the wharf, which is surrounded by  a carpet of floating pumice. We can see a group of local dancers assembled on the shore and head for them to take photos and listen to the native music. We end up with another of the groups in a Toyota Coaster bus, and head out through the town, or what is left of it, toward the volcano on the east side. We pass the still operating Rabaul and Travel Lodge Hotels, and out onto the lunar landscape of ash cut with watercourses, and the barely surviving remainder of lush gardens and trees in the old town. There are still concrete foundations, but little else. There is no real road, just a track through the ash, and difficult crossings of the watercourses. Stop first at the Betty Bomber site, where the locals have set up  a mini-market of souvenirs and local crafts. Feel sorry for the kids dressed up in traditional costume, but don’t have any small change to pay for photos.  There is not a lot left of the bomber, but at least it has been cleared of ash fallout, and we get some photos. We now head for the volcano and the hot springs at the foot of it, but encounter problems with a man who claims to be the traditional owner. Turns out he thinks he is owed money by Meli, the operator of out private tour, and won’t lift the makeshift boom gate to let us in. Could possibly walk, but it is a long way, and might still have to pay. Decide to do a whip-around, and argue with Meli later, but Gordon, our group leader puts up the cash until he is reimbursed, after a hurried mobile phone call. We watch one of the miracles of modern communication, with the owner, and our woman guide in animated conversation on the mobile phone with Meli. The situation is sorted, and we proceed, now being welcomed loudly by the owner. The buses stop at a deep ravine a couple of hundred metres short of the hot springs, and at least a km from the base of the volcano. There is another mini-market set up here, and at the spring itself, with kids again dressed up as warriors. The springs are indeed hot, with bubbles of steam and jets of hot water. The sea itself is pretty hot near the spring, but we are not tempted  into the grey water. Back at the Hotel Rabaul, we stop for drinks and toilets, have a look at the Japanese bunker, and the covered swimming pool, which looks pretty grey. They are pedaling hard, but the place looks pretty grim, with almost no greenery, an ash lawn, and continuous fallout of ash every day.    Drive down nearer the harbour to look at a war memorial, then up through a sharp cleft in the escarpment to the volcano monitoring station, which is perched on the edge, looking over the bay and across to the volcanoes   The station, while not all that modern, looks well-run, and has about a dozen drum recorders taking seismograph readings from remote detectors. Look at some historical readings from the big bangs, and some good wall charts of the volcano.Head back down into town, past a large coconut oil refinery, and out on the road along the western side of the bay, inland of the cone on this side then along the bay to the Japanese landing barge tunnels    There is a certain lack of organization at the tunnels, where they have failed to appreciate the value of a circuit and continuous flow of tourists, and have to send them in five at a time, then wait for them to come out. They also have to station a guide on the viewing platform to warn tourists of the broken deck planks. It looks like they have been doing this for a while, rather than replacing the planks. The tunnels are impressive, with at least three small landing barges on rails. The barges are gradually rusting away, but you can still see a lot of detail. We head further south through dense rain forest towards Kokopo, the new capital, passing through quickly to take a short stop at the East New Britain Historical and Cultural Centre.  It has an impressive display of World War 11 equipment located outdoors on a grassy lawn, an interesting display of giant native masks and costumes indoors, and a rather sadly neglected geological/vulcanological section. On 23rd January, 1942 Japanese forces overwhelmed a small Australian garrison on Rabaul, and established their most powerful base in the southwest Pacific there.  At its peak strength, the fortress of Rabaul included five airfields, a seaplane and submarine base, plus a huge naval anchorage with support facilities, and almost 200,000 personnel.As the allied offensive surged towards Rabaul from the Solomons and New Guinea, the Japanese moved underground, honeycombing the hills around Rabaul with hundreds of kilometers of tunnels, including hospitals, repair facilities and barracks. Many allied POW’s and local inhabitants were forced to build these tunnels. We carry on along the coast to the remains of Queen Emma’s palace, overlooking the golf course beside a 5-star hotel under construction. Back in town, we take a swing past the very active market area, and find the whole town clean and well-kept.  On the way back to the ship, we pass a large war-era cargo crane and a very big tunnel into the cliffs beside the road. Told later that this area is considered haunted, as there are a lot of road accidents in this section, not necessarily drink-related, as the locals don’t drink much, and possibly why this tunnel hasn’t been exploited for tourism.Back at the ship, we are tempted to abandon out snorkel at the Submarine Base, as it is getting pretty late, but we are convinced by the tour organizer that we have plenty of time. Get a van and driver, head over the pass to the north side, and along the coast road. There is a lot of roadwork going on, particularly at the bridges, where they are restoring earth washed away from the abutments. It is a five metre drop down to the watercourse, and the road works look pretty temporary, but we survive. Find out later the damage was only done  a couple of days ago when they had an incredible downpower. We were lucky we weren’t here then!At the submarine base, there is surf breaking on a small beach, and an abandoned pavilion. It is overcast, and he water is pretty grey and uninviting, but we give it a go anyway. Our guide, it turns out, has never been snorkeling or diving here, and will be watching from the beach. Undaunted, we suit up and head out through the surf. The bottom is pretty ordinary at first, but the dropoff does exist, and is remarkably close to shore. The weather remains overcast, so everything is pretty colourless, but the coral is good, with colourful brittle stars, good visibility, and blue depths to seaward. We see a small, scared turtle, and a reasonable fish population. We have taken the Olympus waterproof camera with us, and get a few bluish shots before it complains that the access hatches are open. MP double checks that this is not so, and even opens the battery compartment above water, to check, but nothing seems wrong, even though there does seem to be water drops in it. We can’t do much about it as we are a long way from shore, so carry on regardless. To the south, the shore develops into cliffs dropping into the water, with square tunnels leading in from the waters edge. There are really good views here, but the camera is out of action. We see a local sitting on a rock at the waters edge, so there must be some sort of land access, but can’t see it. We decide not to push our luck with the ship’s departure timetable, so head back to the beach.We have brought Dianne’s old optical prescription face mask with us to donate it to someone who needs it. We explain this to our guide, who normally needs reading glasses, but not everyday glasses, but he sounds like he is going to keep it himself anyway. Even though he can see better through the plain mask, we get the impression he thinks anything is better than nothing. By the time we head back, the roadwork is finished, and we have plenty of time. Decide not to push our luck by stopping at the markets, and call it a day, as we’re pretty weary. On the way back out of Rabaul, we take more photos and videos, but are unable to detect any sort of glow from the crater. Information we are given indicates we will be travelling right down “the Slot” through the Solomons and the Battle of the Coral Sea area in the next few days, which is a lot better than we expected.  .ex
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1257930350/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1257930350/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/2008/1257930350/tpod.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 05:45:22 -0500 And now for something completely different - a four star cruise!

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Luganville, Sanma, Vanuatu

Friday 23nd October 2009                    Solomons The whole day is spent at sea coming down through the "Slot" through the Solomons, with photos of chains of islands either side, extreme rainy weather, and course details. We have Destination lectures by Dr Dean Papavassilio (not so good), Enrichment lectures by Leonard Werman (great storyteller talking about Australian history and  telling jokes) and World War2 history by Gary Shahan (excellent) in the theatres. Murray also has his first Engineers get-together. Saturday 24th October 2009                    Solomons and Honiara MedivacWe are on deck early to take more photos and video of the Solomons, coming down the centre of the “Slot”. We find out that we will be making an unscheduled stop at Honiara to medivac an idiot teenager who broke his ankle in three places. No-one on the boat was surprised when they found out who it was.  He'd been running wild the whole time. Take photos of Savo Island, scene of a crucial battle, before running down the coast of Guadalcanal to Honiara, getting a running commentary from Gary Shahan, the American who has been conducting history lectures in the ship. There are a lot of wrecks along the shore, but most of them are recent. We stop just off the harbour at Honiara while the transfer of the patient and his father is taking place, and are able to get a pretty good look at the town, which looks remarkably civilized. There is an Australian patrol boat in the harbour as a reminder that everything is not rosy in the garden. We get a lot of photos of the significant areas in the battles of WW2, and the current harbour, boats and foreshore. After we get under way, there is a wreath laying ceremony off the point south of Honiara. The Battle of Guadalcanal was fought between 7th August 1942 and 9th February 1943 on and around the Island of Guadalcanal in the Pacific theatre of World War2.  Considered a turning point in the War, this fiercely contested campaign marked the first significant strategic combined arms victory by Allied forces over the Japanese in the Pacific.  Quite a few people on this cruise have some connection with the war in this area.There are islands all around the horizon, and some serious rain falling over the land and sea.At night we have the second Formal night.  We spend most of the afternoon during the Jigsaw, and are still in our casual gear when we have to hurry past the formally clad people in the first dinner sitting (which is 5.45pm – ours is 8pm). Sunday 25th October 2009                        at seaMost of day is spent during the communal jigsaw, interspersed with eating, an exercise class for Dianne, and a tour of the engine control room with the group of engineers for Murray. It was pretty impressive as it was like running a small town, with its own electricity plant, sewage plant, desalination plant and enough airconditioning for a large city building. Monday 26th October 2009                    Luganville, Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu Out on deck when we are in Segond Channel between low, mangrove covered islands to the left, and the main Island to the right, passing what we later find is Million Dollar Point and the President Coolidge wreck site, the local commercial shipping wharf and coming up to the Santo main wharf and the start of the town proper. Take photos and videos all around.Segond Channel was the Allies’ base for their war efforts against the Japanese advance during WW11. For three years to September 1945 more than half a million military personnel, mainly Americans, were stationed here waiting their turn to head into battle in the Pacific. At times there were as many as 100 ships moored off Luganville. There were more than 40 cinemas, four military hospitals, five airfields, a naval repair centre, a torpedo boat base, jetties and market gardens. Quonset huts were erected for use as offices, stores, workshops and servicemen’s accommodation. Over 10,000 islanders also came to Santo to work as labourers or servants for the troops.  Today, Luganville has a population of 12,200!The weather is pretty ordinary, so we pack wet weather gear to head into town to the bank to get some local currency, the Vatu. Pass the traditional dancers, trinket stalls and locals displaying anything they thought may attract a tourist, including green lizards, tiny black birds, turtles, coconut crabs, personal hardship stories, children in native costumes, coke bottles from the 1940’s, and young girls in strange blonde wigs made of coconut fibre.  End up stopping to internet on the way, using Aussie Dollars, to find what has happened to the house sale, and the world in general. Armed with information from an expat woman in a ute at a service station, we are able to tell from the number plates what sort of vehicle we can expect to stop for us, but settle for a taxi to Million Dollar Point for 1000 Vatu, about $12. Our driver doesn’t seem all that sure where we are going, and follows another taxi over the rough road beside the ocean. Thinks we want to go to the airport when we ask if the turnoff leads to it. Thinks we want the Pres Coolidge when we ask about it, but at least points out the entrance to the dive site. At Million Dollar Point, we are charged $5 each for entrance, then are driven to the point. The weather doesn’t look all that flash, with wind and scuds of rain, but the beach looks ok, so we decide to go in snorkeling.Once the fighting in World War11 was over and the Americans were to return home, there was the problem of all the surplus war equipment. The USA offered local planters and the Condominium government the chance to buy the equipment and supplies. But they stalled, hoping, perhaps, to get it all for nothing. Their plan backfired, because the Americans dumped the lot. Everything from bulldozers, aero engines, trucks and jeeps to crates of Coca-cola and canned food went into the sea at what is now Million Dollar Point. We’re going in to see what is left of this. Decide not to risk leaving the gear, so go in one at a time, MP first, straight off the beach, then around the point to see a sunken steel boat and a variety of machinery items encrusted with coral. DP changes in the loo, then we try further up the beach, before coming back to the point, where DP finds better examples of machinery, including an upside down tank, complete with caterpillar tracks. MP has to go in again to check it out. We talk to others from the ship, and quiz their guide as to whether you can walk along the beach to the President Coolidge. He tells us yes, it is possible, and there is no problem with “tapu” (taboos). Unfortunately we don’t ask if people DO walk along the beach.It is quite a pleasant walk at first, along coarse coral gravel (with LOTS of broken glass, especially the old coke bottles) and under overhanging trees, but as we progress, it becomes more difficult, with coral cliffs right down to the water. We can walk around some of the headlands in knee-deep water, but at other places we have to rock-hop, or head inland through the scrub, with hanging vines, loose dirt and leaves and spider webs. There seems to be some sort of rough path around the problem areas, but it is pretty rough.The  USS President Coolidge site is marked by a couple of sea walls, an offshore coral rock platform, and a landscaped path with wide steps leading to a small beach. On the morning of 26th October 1942 the USS President Coolidge sank after hitting two “friendly” American mines in Segond Channel. A luxury liner, she had been refitted as a troopship and was carrying over 5,000 men. The captain tried to run the stricken ship onto the nearby reef, but it slid backwards into deep water. All but two of the crew managed to reach shore safely. It is now one of the world’s most famous wreck dives. We think we’ll at least have a snorkel. Again we have to go in separately, which tends to limit how ambitiously you swim. It is a long way out to deep water (it’s high tide) through low visibility, with rock outcrops to make it interesting. Out at the dropoff, the water is clear and very blue over a sandy bottom. There are anchored cables on the bottom, and a massive rope leading down at an angle, presumably to the bow of the wreck. Even though the water is pretty clear, the overcast sky limits visibility, and we will have to take the word of others that the wreck actually exists. There is an interestingly anchored scuba bottle on the bottom, presumably some sort of safety backup. Back on the shore, we take photos of the landscaped garden, and find we are not in a resort, but just in a small park beside the road. Back towards town there is a monument, decorated by the locals with flowers and banners. It is dedicated to the Captain of the Coolidge, who was one of the two casualties of the beaching, lost looking for survivors. We make a contribution, take photos, and head on into town, knocking back taxis while we look for the cultural village. There are no obvious signs, and the only possible candidate is a long way down a side road, so we finally flag down a taxi and head back to the ship, for 1000 Vatu.After lunch, head out without the snorkeling gear. Run the gauntlet of cultural attractions, and walk through town, past the market and pretty riverbank. Take photos of local produce, including muddy-looking kava root bundles. Walk as far as the Sarakata Bridge to take photos of the river, then back for a rest in the main park. Take photos of a classic Quonset hut, Pidgin English signs, and the waterfront. Get rid of the last of our small change to the most deserving of the local mini-entrepreneurs, then back to the ship for a before-dinner rest. After dinner, finally finish the jigsaw about 11pm.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1223291100/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1223291100/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1223291100/tpod.html Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:16:05 -0400 A trip from Sydney to South Australia, with lots of walking in National Parks

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Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

                                 2008 South Australia and Flinders Ranges Trip Day 1 - 16 Sept 08              Balmain to Oura Beach  470 km      Loading of the car complicated by having to get the roof pod "Poddy" from Jerry's place and having to park out the front to load the car because Poddy will not fit in the car park. Not game to pack the night before, as we've recently had someone steal our camera from the car, while it was parked in our car park, by using a jimmy to smash the window.  Departure further slowed by the need to buy an inverter for the car in Alexandria so we can charge phones, the Palm Pilot, and our new camera from the car, as we don't expect to see 240V AC power for a while.      The gear all fits in, but the back is pretty full with our two roller packs, the mattress (which has been cut to fit around the wheel arches), a fridge, an esky, four plastic food boxes, the water container, boot bag, book bag, technology box, tool kit and sundries. A plywood sheet helps loading the boxes and moving them around without tearing the mattress cover. Not a lot of room for sleeping in the car without turfing out all the waterproof items.     It is pretty cold and getting colder, and by the time we stop for a late  Macca's lunch near Goulburn, it is pretty bitter. This is all familiar country, but when we make the turnoff to Wagga Wagga we enter the unknown. We have decided to follow the route instructions given by Ron (the Group leader) even though there is a short cut from near Gundagai, figuring there may be something we don't know. The route takes us almost to Wagga Wagga, past the oddly named Gumly Gumly, then turns north across the Murrumbidgee, then east, hopefully toward Oura, and Oura Beach, without the aid of road signs. The country along the river is green and pleasant -no sign of the devastating drought  here.    Arrive at the camp site just before dark, find a spot and meet most of the team -couples Ron and Leonie, Herb and Lesley, Bert and Diana, and two singles, Val and Margaret.  Two others are to meet us at Quorn.  Ages range from 55 to 72, but everyone is pretty fit.  Go for a walk along the river and firing a few shots with our new camera (to replace the one stolen). The river is pretty, with a fair current, and a real "beach", and the fallen log snags which characterise the inland rivers. As we are only staying one night, decide to unload the gear out of the car, put a waterproof sheet over it, and sleep in the car. Get our sleeping bags out of Poddy (they never go back in). Think we will need all three, as it is pretty chilly while have our 5 o'clock drink and nibbles around a cold campfire pit.    We cook a steak on the flash stainless steel frypan from home, on the gas stove we bought in Crete in 1976. The canister (not the original one) is pretty empty, and the temperature is near freezing, so we don't get a lot of sting out of the stove, and it takes forever. The steak is pretty well stewed, but not all that bad, taken with cold boiled potatoes from home.    No-one feels like lighting a camp fire, so we sit around for a while shivering, then head to bed early, finding that, for once, the down bags are not too hot. DP turns on the car thermometer at about 6AM, and it is registering 0 degrees C. Day 2 - 17 Sept 08                   Oura Beach to Darlington Point 215 km     Pretty chilly in the morning, but fine. Val had taken her water bottle into the tent the night before, and found it frozen, which gives you some idea of how cold it was.  MP indulges himself with a hot cup of tea, and the usual weetbix breakfast, DP muesli and Coke. Find out we are travelling independently, not in convoy, and just meeting up at strategic points, which suits us fine, so set off early to look at Wagga (Wagga). It is a big town, with wide streets and historical buildings. The CBD is quite large, with several long main streets, and a lot of cross streets. Take a photo of the streetscape, and the railway station, then head up into the hills past the Botanical Gardens to a lookout. From here we take photos over the town to the wheat and canola fields beyond.    Head south down the Olympic Highway 31 km to The Rock, a small town on the railway, with grain silos and the usual rural services. Drive 3km west to the "Rock" in question, an isolated hill with a rocky outcrop on top, with the Yerong Walking Track  leading to the outcrop, known as Kengal to the aborigines. It is shown as a "hard" grade, 6km, 3 hours return track, but we take considerably less, in spite of the advanced age of some of our group.   The track circles around to the south side of the hill before climbing to the base of the outcrop, and up onto a rocky saddle, with a ridge running to the south, where we take a break and get our first good look out over the plains. The area is obviously prime farming country, with a patchwork of green and golden fields stretching to the horizon in all directions. There are a lot of wildflowers, the endangered woolly ragwort, with large leaves covered with fine, white fuzz, and the wattle in full bloom, so it is very photogenic. The climb carries on around the back of the outcrop, then zigzags to the top, where we rest on the rocks and take group and panorama photos. On the way down, take wattle rock and farmland photos. Have lunch at the picnic area at the car park before heading for Narrandera and Darlington Point. There is a shortcut which avoids going back to Wagga. It is only a fine line on the map, but all the roads are pretty good around here, so have no trouble finding the Sturt Highway, and Narrandera.     Have both been here at different times many years ago, and it probably hasn't changed a lot. Check out the main street, taking photos of the imposing Council Chambers and the typically large Royal Mail Hotel, with a long second storey verandah around the corner, and cast iron posts. Leaving town, we get a photo of a long, derelict railway trestle which used to cross the highway.  Get to Darlington Point about 5PM, and find the camping area, which features the curved steel lattice tower from the old lifting bridge across the Murrumbidgee. When MP was here last, the bridge was still in place on the river.      Decide once again to sleep in the car, as we are getting the hang of it, and have a shelter and table nearby. Settle for 5 o'clock nibbles and chunky soup for tea, and have another early night without a campfire. Not as cold as last night, and find it hot in the warm bags, but cold under the light bags. The camping ground is near the Kidman Way, which leads to Griffith, not far north. It shouldn't have as many trucks as the Sturt, or the infamous Newell Highway, but there are plenty going through all night.     Day 3 - 18 Sep 08           Darlington Point to Ouyen        395 km    Today is a long driving day, across some ordinary country, so we have a quick look at the Murrumbidgee near the campground, take some photos, and head out for Hay, famous for being hot and dry. We were last here in 1989, and it was here we heard about the Newcastle earthquake. Suspect it hasn't changed a lot. Get petrol from the local machinery supplier, who has an interesting pushbike powered push mower. Get photos of the sandy banked Murrumbidgee, and the dry grasses of the Hay Plains.  Have to be careful with our fruit and vegies because of Irrigation Area quarantine controls, which don't allow you to take any fruit or vegetables further West. Eat a few more apples than we really need. Turn off onto the Mallee Highway just short of Balranald, cross the Murray River at Tooleybuc, getting photos of the river, which is a little bit too green, and the historic lifting bridge. Arrive in Ouyen in the late afternoon. Tempted to find a cabin, but settle for another night in the car. Drive back up town after booking in, to have a look at the town, and find a liquor store to buy some cask wine. Back to the camp to use the camp kitchen to socialise a bit before turning in early again. Day 4 - 19 Sept 08     Ouyen to Deep Creek Conservation Park    470 km    After consulting on the possible routes, decide to take the ferry at Wellington so we can drop down to Goolwa and have a look at the infamous Hindmarsh Island Bridge. Take photos of lush green wheat fields along the of the border, taking a  photo of the sheep sales. Take a photo of canola in full bloom somewhere near Geranium, on the Mallee, and another of the main street of Tailem Bend, where we pig out on pies and sausage rolls from the bakery.    Drive down the Princes Highway to the Wellington ferry turnoff, where we have to wait a while to get on. The ferry is fairly new and efficient. Get photos of the Murray and the town of Wellington, and a pink salt lakes on the road to Langhorne Creek.   At Strathalbyn, we check out the information centre in the old railway station, which serves the steam railway to Goolwa. Look at the possibility of going to Kangaroo Island after we finish walking, but don't want to book yet. Pass through canola fields on the way to Goolwa, where we proceed directly to Hindmarsh Island, to check out the Secret Women's Business scene. MP is keen to see the barrage which has connected the island to the mainland, long before the controversy about the bridge started, but it is hard to find. We check out the large, but still not fully developed marina/residential/marine industry complex, then drive right across the island to see the river on the far side, but can't get through private property. Try another route, and get to see the barrage from a distance, then end up opposite the Murray mouth, where there is a large dredge opening up a channel to the sea. The deep  dredged area is a beautiful blue-green colour. We encounter a group of students on a field trip, and possibly a group of intellectually impaired people, but they might just have been greenies (MP's comment). Take photos of the sand pumping information, as well as the scenery, then head back to look at Goolwa, where we park under the "Bridge", and look at the historic displays and visitor centre. There is a timber boat workshop where a young man and woman are taking great care making what is basically a flat bottomed punt out of what looks like mahogany. The craft may well be a historical reproduction, but it looks like a giant waste of time.   We get Kangaroo Island info, and some Deep Creek info at the Visitor Centre, but are advised to pick up a  Holiday National Park camping permit in Victor Harbour. It is now getting late, so hot-foot it to Victor Harbour, stopping briefly at Basham's Beach Regional Park, Port Elliot (Kanjeinwal) for a walk and photos.  Victor Harbour is quite impressive on the way in, so stop for photos, then proceed to get lost in the one-way streets, looking for the National Parks Office. The woman behind the desk is quite helpful, and we settle for a $44 concession permit, which gives us free admission and camping on Conservation Park sites, everywhere but Kangaroo Island, for two months. Have a look at the long bridge to the island, see the horse-drawn carriage, find a supermarket for supplies, but forget to get petrol. On the 50 km drive to the park, the fuel gauge drops alarmingly once we get below ¼ full, but we press on, getting to the camping area just before  dark. See a few rabbits on the way into the camp, but nowhere else.    As we will be here for 3 nights, take our time finding a flat spot and pitch the tent between  some healthy-looking trees. The self-registration information doesn't mention our pass at all, but we assume we are ok, and don't register. Our group are fairly widely scattered, but we get together for drinks and nibbles, and cook chunky soup later. This is a flash camping ground, with a gas hot water system. DP looks forward to a shower, but it has that nemesis of campers, the water saving nozzle, which fires a jet of either scalding or icy water at head height, inducing a gale of wind with it. MP sensibly stays dirty.  Our tent is pretty comfortable with the mattress out of the car, and we are quite snug in our collection of sleeping bags, even when it blows hard, and rains quite heavily during the night.  Day 5 - 20 Sept 08    Deep Creek Conservation Area - Blowhole Beach, Deep Creek Waterfall   In the morning, it is still blowing hard, but the rain has let up, and the ground is surprisingly dry and firm. MP has an unsatisfactory shower, then breakfast and we get for the walk. The ranger turns up, and we find we have definitely made the right decision regarding the permit. He is surprisingly flexible, and is prepared to refund the camping fees to anyone who wants a permit, but he may not have many of them, and some of the group don't think they will get their money's worth. We will cut out the cost of our permit just here, at $15 a night. We rug up pretty well, and take rain gear, but by the time we get to the start of the walk, it doesn't look too bad.    Drive to Cobbler Hill Picnic Area.for the 3.5 hour walk on the Blowhole Beach-Marrano Creek Walk. Park the vehicles and walk down a gravel road and through trees to open country with short green grass and a lot of large grass trees. The hill was quite steep, and slippery with last night's rain and dew still on the grass. Walk down the steep-sided, grassy valley which leads to the cove to the east of Blowhole Beach, seeing clumps of arum lilies along the small stream, and views out over the interestingly named "Backstairs Passage" between Kangaroo Island and the mainland. We can see a 4WD road which also leads to the cove, and a parking area, and several headlands all free of trees and covered with short green grass. It is very pretty as we approach the beach, and we take a lot of photos.   The beach itself is deserted, with a steep headland to the west, and a lower rock shelf leading to where the blowhole must be in the right weather. The sea is pretty quiet today, so no blowhole. Stop for a rest and snack on a rock shelf at the far end of the beach. DP takes off her shoes and tries the water, which is pretty chilly. While we are resting, see a solitary hiker come down the same way as us, but continue across the head of the bay, and up the steep headland, on the Heysen Track, which we will encounter a number of times on this trip.      We retrace our path across the beach, and up the east side of the bay, then traverse the steep slopes to the east, past some pretty relaxed kangaroos. Drop down into the watercourse and small cove, then climb through thickening bush into the forest proper, which continues to the top of the hill,  where we find another picnic and camping spot, and the road back to the cars.     Drive a short distance to a picnic spot with a toilet, and lunch in the cars, as it is pretty unpleasant out in the wind, then drive to the start of the Deep Creek Waterfall Track,  and do the 2 hour walk to the waterfall, which starts off in dry scrubby tea tree country along the tops before plunging into the deep creek gorge, with rock and timber steps. See a lot of wildflowers and a shingle back lizard on the way in. The track is also part of the Heysen track, which branches off to the east, while we head up along the creek to find the waterfall.   It is quite a substantial fall over a basalt step, with a pool at the base deep enough to swim in, under better climate conditions, The water is tannin-stained, but fairly clear, and has pattern on the surface from the tannin-induced foam. Lesley shows her gymnastic ability by climbing the face up to the next level, but MP must be getting old, and doesn't try it.   Get back to the camp pretty early. Find that there is a wisp of smoke coming out of our fire pit, so proceed to fan it into life, using illegally collected twigs from the camping area. When we have it going, Herbert chips in a few logs he has been carrying, and the group ends up with a decent campfire to sit around, eating nibbles and drinking cheap plonk. Have another modest evening meal of our signature dish, chunky soup, and off to bed. We have close neighbours - looks like a single dad with two sons, both of whom seem strange. The youngest seems to have no language skills at all, and cries and screams most of the evening. We manage to get to sleep in spite of this, and the strong wind buffeting the tent in the night.Day 6-21 Sept 08 Deep Creek Conservation Park -Aaron Creek Walk, Deep Creek Cove Walk    Pack a lunch and head out to the Aaron Creek picnic area to pick up the trail head for the 3-hour walk. It is blowing a dog off a chain, so we have reversed the order of the walks, hoping for the wind to drop. We are still driving to these start points, even though the fuel gauge is looking pretty grim. We are told Ron got fuel at the nearby Delamere Store a couple of years back, so we should be ok, barring fires and bankruptcies. The two single ladies are getting a lift with Herbert and Lesley.  The walk starts off along a quite level ridge, on short grass, beside an electric fence, with a big dam and a lot of sheep in the valley to the east, and a virtual kangaroo farm in the valley to the west. We reach a fork in the track, and veer west to pick up some trees which break the wind we are pushing into. As the ridge starts to descend towards the sea, we get increasing numbers of large grass trees, with short green grass between them. The old leaves form a skirt around the base of the grass trees, and the overall effect is charming.    The track swings to the west around the end of the ridge, and descends to the steep valley of Aaron Creek. Across the valley we can see the Heysen track, straight as an arrow up the far side. Descend to the pretty creek, where we encounter more arum lilies, then zigzag down beside a skinny 10 metre waterfall, where we stop for morning tea. The creek bed is pretty level from here, and is severely infested with arum lilies, which look great, but are a bit of a worry.      Strike uphill along an old logging road to find the Heysen Track hikers hut and nearby dam. Spend some time getting a photo of a flame-breasted robin with our new, semi-useless camera (we bought it because of its durability and the fact that it is waterproof to three metres, which will be very useful. However it is only meant to be our second camera, but the replacement for our stolen camera, which is being replaced under insurance, hadn't arrived by the time we left on this trip). Continue on, climbing to the top to rejoin the track where we branched off , finding an old truck chassis along the way with a substantial tree growing through it.     Lunch in the lee of a shed, close to a rented cottage which has a strange, glassed-in verandah. The glass panels look impossibly large, may be plastic, but seem very clear and rigid.   Drive to the Trig Picnic area at the start of the 2 ½ hour Deep Creek Cove Track. The picnic area has a lot of facilities and good toilets, quite a lot of birds there, including blue wrens. The track goes a long way along the tops through dense casuarina scrub. There are volunteers working on it, but they obviously prefer to work close to the car park, as the track gets narrower and rougher as we proceed. Eventually the scrub meets overhead, and we have to push our way through the occasionally spiky scrub.When we get to the start of the main descent, get pretty views along the coast, with steep hills dropping down to sandy beaches and blue-green sea. Stop for a rest where the sides of the Deep Creek valley become a gorge, then descend steeply to the small estuary and narrow outlet to the sea. The creek water is heavily tannin-stained, but quite pretty, as we make our way across the sand, to stepping stones over the stream to the cove proper.   The shore of the cove is made up of football-sized rounded boulders, covered with orange lichen. Campers have built a rock wall for some degree of shelter, but it would be a rugged spot in any sort of heavy weather. Dianne gets out of her boots while we rest and snack, so we are last away when it is time to leave. Seems a long way back, even with a long rest at the gorge lookout.     Get back to the camp pretty early, make another fire, as everyone seemed to enjoy it, and repeat last night's socialising. Once again it is freezing once the sun goes down. We plan to be up pretty early in the morning, as it will be a very long day, all the way to Quorn, and stopping for a while at Les's (Dianne's brother) place at Hallett Cove.      Day 7 - 22 Sept 08    Deep Creek Conservation Area - Hallett Cove - Quorn   450 km   Have a final fire-and-ice shower under the water saving showers, strike camp in light rain, soon after 7am and head off towards the Delamere Store for petrol. We find it in full swing, and buy petrol and breakfast meat pies, then head up along the coast, calling into most of the seaside villages. Finish our breakfast pies at Second Valley, where we see a sea lion beside the wharf, and an unusual collection of boatsheds on an offshore rocky island with a path cut in around the base of the high cliffs for access to the island at low tide. To the north, the hills drop steeply to the sea without any beaches. The weather is pretty foul, raining and blowing a gale, so we don't walk the path, just head north, taking the scenic route to the Myponga Dam and lookout. The dam is a high, curved concrete arch, and the reservoir runs back among pine clad hills - quite picturesque.    Head back to the coast, and follow it up to Port Noarlunga, where we take photos of the windswept jetty and surf out on the offshore reefs. We don't have a detailed map of the area, so rely on memory from 1989 to find Les's place. We get surprisingly close, as it turns out, but are on the wrong side of the railway. DP gets detailed instructions from a shopkeeper, involving at least a dozen intersections, and use this to at least find the only bridge across the railway. Asking a second time to a woman standing in the rain beside her car, we get a landmark house across a wide valley, and this gets us onto the right street. There is no-one home except the family poodle peering around an internal door, so have a look at the view out over St Vincent Gulf, and the amazingly ill-placed monster mansion across the road, and move on to see Wally and Ingrid (Les's in-laws) in the next street. Have a good visit, swapping travellers' tales, then head off right through Adelaide on the A13, missing the CBD, but passing through the industrial suburbs near the airport. Try for a fish-and- chip lunch, but find we have selected a fresh fish shop. Settle for a Macca's and noodle lunch, do a provisions shop at a generic supermarket full of large women, which gives a definite clue to the socio-economic status of the area. Head north, through blustery winds and rain, on the A1 through flat land not far inshore from St Vincent Gulf. Pass some interesting satirical roadside sculptures addressing some sort of waste disposal proposal, but our photo record shows nothing of interest until we pass the pink salt Bumbunga Lake at Locheil. The highway bypasses Snowtown, infamous for the bodies-in-the-barrel murder case, and we resist morbid curiosity, and  carry on to the unlikely Crystal Brook. Stop just on dark at Melrose, in the shadow of the aptly named Mt Remarkable, which is high, steep and rocky, with a number of large scree slopes. Too late for photography, so push on to Quorn to find the caravan park.     Our group is already established, so we take a place near them, and look the site over. Everyone is pretty dispirited, as it is being blowing a gale for hours, and is freezing cold and very unpleasant. We're quite pleased we didn't arrive earlier. The ground is iron hard and mainly dirt, and the camping sites are quite exposed to the strong westerly wind. Look around for a better spot, and find a more sheltered place among the powered sites, and a nice piece of lawn with a table. Back at the office, we're told we can't have the lawn as it's a picnic spot, but are given the powered site at the same price ($18 per night). Move down and set up the tent, in the dark, on iron-hard gravel.    Don't bother to cook the evening meal because of the wind, and our large lunch. Settle in for a comfortable night in spite of the wind.      Day 8 - 23 Sept 08                Quorn - Dutchman's Stern  Walk 11 km            When we wake in the morning the wind has died down, and it's a nice fine day. Drive 10km  to the Dutchman's Stern Conservation Park, where we find out  that we have no battery in the camera, so there is no photo record. The 11km walk starts pretty gently on fairly dry ground, with a lot of wildflowers, then starts to climb through scrubby timber to an escarpment, where we stop for morning tea and look out over the plains, with Quorn in the distance. There are rock outcrops and rocky slopes, but any resemblance of a ship's stern is lost on us. Continue the climb to a high point from which we get views to the west, over parallel ranges to the plains, and the dry bed of Lake Torrens. We can see a train on the line to Leigh Creek, the chimney of the power station at Pt Augusta, and the northern end of Spencer Gulf.      During the break here, we learn that Diana (one of our group) spent some time on a property on Lake Torrens as a cook, many years before. Walk along the ridge, then descend along a steep gorge. It is cool right on top, but pretty hot otherwise, but bearable on the descent. As we get to flatter land, encounter masses of wildflowers.     As it is still quite early, follow some information from Ron, and we head for Warren Gorge, where he had seen a lot of Yellow Footed wallabies on a previous visit. The gorge is quite pretty, but it is a bit early for wallabies to be out and about. Ron leaves for Quorn, but we walk down the dry creek bed, finally spotting a total of 4 wallabies, two of which stick around for a while, until a group of noisy young people turn up. We curse ourselves for not having the camera.    Take an alternate route back to Quorn past several other gorges, and get back in time to look at the town, find our camera battery, and take a photo of the historic railway station and some of the pubs. The group has arranged to meet at the Austral Hotel, where they are assured there will be pizza on the menu. As a large group, we are first placed in the deserted back dining room, then moved to the front, where they can fire up the heater. After getting most of the staff involved in whether the pizza is on or off, get the definitive answer from the cook, who has no intention of firing up the oven, which takes four hours to heat. Settle for a la carte, not cheap, but not a bad feed.      We are running out of cash, so go to the pub up the road, which has a $100 limit on ATM withdrawals, possibly because it also has pokies. The others have already gone back, so we have to negotiate the dark path through the railway yards on our own, but make it intact. Get a good night's sleep, with less wind than last night.Day 9 - 24 Sept 08       Quorn - Wilpena Pound - 120 km - Homestead Pound walk - 3 hours    Fairly late start, as we don't have far to go, and no long walks are planned at Wilpena. Find DP's can of coke, which she put in the camp freezer, along with our ice brick and normal plastic bottle of water which we routinely freeze, has exploded into a frozen sculpture. Takes a fair while to clean up. We internet for free at the library of the school, using one of about 5 unused computers. Interesting to see the local school, which looks to be well resourced. Fuel up, shop, and look at the town, then head north for Hawker, past the Barytes plant on the outskirts, which i is processing barytes for drilling mud. Pass some good Flinders Ranges views, historic homesteads, and do a tour of Hawker, photographing historic buildings, and encountering a do-it-yourself "Wicked" campervan, a large, almost new van covered with greenie and hippy slogans. Fuel up, as not sure of the price and availability of fuel in Wilpena, and head north over flat, sandy land with minimal vegetation, and lines of colourful mountains to the west.     Stop at a historic homestead which is now a dude ranch, bed and breakfast, and art centre. The art centre is located in the shearing shed, which has a lot of rural artefacts a lot more interesting than the art on display. The station is nicely placed against a backdrop of a rugged escarpment, with sawtooth outcrops of dark rock on the foothills. The surrounding land looks pretty good for pastoral operations, as much so as you could expect up here. Closer to Wilpena, the rugged nature of the mountains gets closer to the images we have seen over the years, and we are now in the real Flinders Ranges. At the park headquarters, find we are expected, get a map with the location of our group, but check out the hotel and other possible accommodation before taking up a spot.     The group is pretty widely spread across a hillside in the giant campground, and it takes us a while to find a level place to pitch our tent, ending up next to Val. Subaru solidarity. Pitch our tent between some small trees, then get ready for the afternoon walk.     The walk takes us on a level road up Wilpena Creek, which has a surprising amount of water in it, and a little bit of flow. There are massive red gums along the road, and the whole creekbed is choked with fallen timber and flood debris. God's gift to the campfire fan, but out of bounds. You have to buy firewood for $10 here, or bring it with you if you want a campfire.    The road ends at a bus shelter and a locked gate. There is a shuttle bus from here to the Park HQ, but you have to book it. Strange...Beyond here, there is a walking track along the creek, beside a wide, steeply sloping rock shelf. The road used to run along the shelf, cut in and reinforced with logs by the homesteaders, but it was all swept away in one of the surprisingly large floods they have in the Flinders. There is a group of plaques on the history of the Hills family near the old, stone homestead, which has been restored, but is closed. A steep path leads up the edge of an escarpment to two lookouts which provide views over the Pound, and across to the mountains on the far side. The dish shape of the pound is obvious from the lookouts, but is not all that spectacular. The floor of the pound is park-like, with short green grass and scattered trees. There are extensive open areas which used to be cultivated. MP takes a walk out to have a look at them, and returns to find everyone still waiting.     The walk back takes a different, higher route to the bus shelter, then retraces the creek bed. Have 5 PM drinks and nibbles at Herbert's fireplace. End up spending the evening around the campfire, find we have a team of teenage kids next door, but they settle down by about 10pm   Day 10 - 25 Sept 08                Wilpena Pound - St Mary Peak walk - 5 hours    In the morning MP has breakfast and heats a coffee while listening to news on the radio in the car. Turned down the volume a couple of times, but doesn't notice that it is carrying a fair way until the large yobbo next door makes a loud, sarcastic comment about not coming camping to listen to the radio. MP acknowledges him, and turns off the radio at once, but the radio theme is carried on loudly, and picked up by the neighbours on the other side for the next two days. Decide it is not worth it to point out that the kids are brainless and noisy, and the other neighbours are talking and drinking around the campfire right beside our tent till late at night.      We're walking to St Marys Peak, and start pretty early, as it will probably be hot later, and it is a fair distance. Walk through pine trees scattered across short grass, looking like a park, and seeing the extended camping area stretching north along the track, then climb into thicker bush, with the track undulating over the toes of the foothills.   When we reach the real climb, we can see the escarpment on the left, then the saddle below the rounded rock summit of St Mary's Peak.  It is hot where the track is enclosed by scrub, cool where we are on the edge of the escarpment, exposed to the breeze. Encounter a couple of young men who seem to be going faster than us, but keep catching them. The track becomes steep and rocky, and we cross several apparent crests before we get to the final climb to the saddle, where there are scrambles up ledges one to  two metres high. There are excellent views from here east over the curving parallel range, and beyond to rounded hills. We take a break when we get over the saddle to where the track into the pound splits off to the left, getting good views into the Pound, and up to the peak. We make a traverse north along the edge of the escarpment, then down onto the slope to pick up a new track which passes a minor outcrop before zigzagging up the west slope of the peak, The track is well marked with blue   reflectors most of the way, but there are tricky turns where it gets steep, and a number of false trails. Record our progress with regular photos. Arrive at the top in good shape, but ready for a rest and lunch.   At 1170 metres elevation, we get pretty good 360 degree views, back toward the airfield at Wilpena, across the Pound, into the gorge at the northern end of the Pound, and down onto the curving valley extending north. The air is fairly clear, so can also see across the Pound to the flat land around Lake Torrens. Get some interesting detail photos of grass trees, rock lichens, and the cliffs on the eastern side. It is fairly cool in the breeze right on the cliff edge, but warmer further back.      Head back down the way we came up, but some of the others choose the original track, which runs right on the cliff edge, and is reported as fairly scary. We take it easy, and are the last except for Ron and Leonie. Not far below the saddle, MP steps on a sharp rock and busts something in his left foot. It is walkable, so he laces the boot tighter, and carries on down, rather than letting it swell and go stiff. He is hobbling pretty badly by the time we take a shortcut into the camp across-country.       Spend another night by Herbert's campfire, driving to it because MP can't walk far, and driving to the toilet and shower. (The showers are pretty good here, no water-saving nozzles). Haven't any ice for the foot, or an elastic bandage, but DP finds the elasticised tube she used for her bursitis elbow, and it helps a lot. Not sure at this stage if MP will be able to drive.     Endure more abuse about the radio from our neighbour, who appears drunk and belligerent, but cop it sweet. MP manages to hobble to the toilet in the night, but it is slow going.Day 11 - 26 Sept 08        Wilpena Pound - Bunyeroo Trail - 15 km drive, 5 hours walk   MP not fit to do the walk, but can drive, so set off for Bunyeroo, stopping en route to look at a large gumtree, the Cazneaux Tree, which figures in a Heysen painting. Take photos of the tree, and the ranges, which dominate the countryside. Approaching Bunyeroo, stop at a series of lookouts for photos over the Bunyeroo Valley to the main range, and down into the valley.     Dianne takes the camera and does the Bunyeroo trail walk, starting from the car park in the gorge, then following a side creek up to a ridge, and circling east to pick up Bunyeroo Creek well above the gorge. It is quite unpleasant today - it is hot and windy, with THOUSANDS of flies, which drive us mad.  Most people are wearing nets on their hats to protect them from the flies. We bought nets on another trip, and have taken them about three times without every using them, so left them at home this time, which we now regret!  Most of the walk is fairly uninteresting through native pine trees, but improves when we climb a hill to a good viewpoint. Eventually come to the creek, which actually has some water in it in places. MP is happy enough to park in the creek bed, beneath a gum tree, and read. Later, drives further up the road to a camp site, does a short hobble up an interesting side gully before finding more shade and reading.    About lunchtime, MP drives back along the road to the lookouts, hobbles across a wide paddock to look into Bunyeroo creek, but can't find the troops. Has another look later and spots them from the road, about 1 km from the car park. DP is happy to cut her walk short, as it has been hot and dry, with big mobs of flies, and no fly veil, climbing Cyprus pine clad hills and walking dry gullies.     Back at the camp, we go down to the resort, and DP internets with difficulty. We buy fuel and firewood, and look at the possibility of booking in for a meal at the restaurant. We donate a load of wood to the group, provided  we don't have to carry it (as we have no room) but end up getting a patt-refund as they've done a whip-around. MP's foot is on the improve, but it is still pretty tender. Another night around the campfire, then to bed, but at least one group of our tormentors has left, so have a quiet night.    Day 12 - 27 Sept 08    Wilpena Pound - Aroona 50 km - Bunyeroo Gorge walk, 2 hours     We pack and leave last of the group. Recover Val's hat from her camp site, fill our water container with water which can't be worse than what we started with,  return our firewood bag for the deposit, and book accommodation and a tour at Arkaroola before stopping on the road to walk to the hidden Wilpena solar power station, which is set in a hidden valley. We notice that, even with bright sunshine, at 9 AM, the diesel backup generators are running.      Follow the same road as yesterday, get to the lookouts and encounter Val heading the other way. We stop, and reverse to give her the hat, but she stops momentarily, then keeps going. When we get to the car park, we find that she has blown a tyre, and has decided to head back to civilization, rather than hang around and risk another blowout or puncture. Herbert has also suffered a puncture at almost the same time, but he has plugged the hole, and is pumping the tyre with an electric compressor. MP has decided he is a goer for today's walk, and sets off using DP's boots, which have a much more rigid sole, and the elastic tube.    It is stinking hot, there are heaps of flies, and it is blowing like a bastard. The trail follows Bunyeroo Creek to where it becomes a gorge, not very narrow, but with high, steep sides. There are large gum trees in the creek bed, and there is a fair bit of flood debris suspended in them. The flies are really bad, MP takes a photo of about 100 of them parked nose to tail on DP's backpack, then cuts a switch of a bush with long, whippy leaves, and changes the fly situation immediately. By either waving the switch near the face, or flagellating, it keeps the flies at bay much better than the Great Aussie Salute.    The gorge ends with the creek bed flattening out and the hills receding where there is an old windmill and water tank. The windmill is still operational, but the tank is buggered, and there is probably no water to pump. We climb the bank on the north side, and look out on flat land, with low hills. The wind is behind us on the way back, and very strong, but, fortunately, the trees don't seem to be shedding limbs in our direction. See a surprising number of wallaby or small kangaroo skeletons along the track, but no live ones.     We drive on to the Aroona Campground turnoff, where we are met by the camp host, who checks out our permits, then we cross a creek with a surprisingly large amount of water, and drive to the camp ground at the Aroona Ruins cultural heritage site, and select our spot down by the dry creek bed. There isn't a lot of room, and have to tie the ropes to trees to stabilise it in the wind. Just start off with the inner tent, which is nearly all netting, and just a groundsheet strategically placed to keep off the sun while we kill all the flies inside. It is hot as hell, but at least fly-free. We spend the afternoon imprisoned in here until the sun goes down, and the flies depart.  Spend the time reading, and cooling ourselves down with wet washers. About 4 PM, when it has cooled considerably.  Dianne gets out and checks the temperature  - 35 degrees!!     The wind drops about dark, and we are able to sit around a campfire for drinks before another Chunky Soup meal. DP's 9 grains and pumpkin seed bread is lasting remarkably well, making a sort-of complete meal with the soup. Put the cover over the inner tent, and have another early night, with some reading by the light of head torches.     Day 13 - 28 Sept 08    Aroona Camp - walk Yuluna Loop and Lookout - 5 hours then 200 km drive to Arkaroola    The walk starts at 7.30am in order to avoid the heat of the day. Walk across the creek from our camp, part of the Heysen Trail, then climb along a passable road through Cyprus pines into hilly country, where we get good views back toward the main range, and forward to Red Hill. Descend to cross a creek, where we encounter large, blue markers at either side. Leave some of the packs at a junction, and continue up the hill on the Heysen Track, to the bald-topped Brachina Lookout, where we take a break and look around. There are panoramic views all around, 360 degrees of hills, with the Flinders dominating to the west and south.    Back at the junction, take the Yuluna Hike trail down to Bendowta Hut Ruins, then along the Yulana Creek bed, which has impressive gum trees, and rugged red cliffs along a gorge before it joins Aroona Creek. The walk back along the creek and then the main road  is pretty ordinary.     We have decided to leave the group here, because they are heading back tomorrow, and will only have one more walking day.  People keep saying that you can't come this far and not see Arkaroola in the Northern Flinders Ranges, so that's our next stop.  We were going to leave tomorrow morning, but because we started today's walk so early, it is not yet lunch time, so we make an executive decision to leave for Arkaroola straight away, thereby spending the hot afternoon in the air conditioned wagon, rather than lying in the hot sun with the flies. We tell the group, then pack in pretty quick time, bid everyone farewell, and head out. By 1.15 PM we have sorted out our direction, with the aid of the few signs on the road, and the combination of the Explore Australia  road atlas, and the National Park map.  Have some direction problems near Willkawallina Gorge, where they are doing road works. Probably missed the more direct road, but still managed to find the right road. Get good views of a sawtooth range to the west, and closer ridges with stripes of hard strata across them. The land stays fairly green for a couple of hours, with sparse scrub and rock capped hills. We come upon some real sand country, then half an hour later, stop for photos on a straight section of gravel road, with a major rocky headland in front, and a line of sawtooth hills a long way behind on the horizon. There is a turnoff to a national park with a gorge, but figure we will have a look on the way back. We are covering about 180 km of gravel road, with no habitation close to the road, and we  see virtually no traffic, but we are OK for fuel, and keep a watch on out tyres. Pass some major sandhills at 3.17 PM, and reach the Gammon Ranges National Park, with an impressive high, rocky bank on a dry river bed. An hour later we are at the Arkaroola Headquarters, booking in to the low- end accommodation, as the mid-range was booked out, and the top end too expensive. Looking forward to not camping, and eating in the restaurant.   When we get to our room, Number 1, find it's on the west end of the building, in full sun, and stinking hot, which is NOT what we want. DP goes back and gets keys to possible alternative rooms, but they have not been made up, as some staff haven't turned up today.  Have a look and find Number 10 on the south side acceptable, but it takes a while to convince the desk that we can make up the bed, and survive without the room being cleaned.   After a while, the office manager turns up with sheets and towels, and we settle in. We have changed our booking for the Ridge top Tour to tomorrow morning, as we've arrived a day earlier than planned, and also have booked in for the early session at the dinner buffet, as there may be a lot of hungry people about. Have a quick look in the visitor centre, even though it is nominally closed. Some good geological info, plus details on the Beverley in situ leach uranium mine close by. They also have a good exhibit on feral cat eradication.     There is a fair crowd in the restaurant, and we catch up on two weeks of starvation diet at the buffet, which is pretty good for $25. We also come to one of our independent conclusions that we should book an extra night, to have a break, and avoid the hassle of clearing the room before going on the tour tomorrow. This also means we can  take full advantage of the kitchen fridge, which we have stacked with the contents of our esky and fridge. We've found if we freeze a drink bottle full of water, it will last 2-3 days in our Esky, and keep things colder than our fridge, which only operates when the car is going (and not that well even then).    The room is OK, but not flash, the shower is good and hot, and a double bed is quite a change, so have a pretty good night with the alarm set for an early start.    Day 14 - 29 Sept 08             Arkaroola - Ridge Top 4WD Tour - 2WD track     Up early, out at the Park Headquarters, where there is a fair sized group waiting for the tour, which costs $99 each, and is the "done thing" here. There are 3 Toyota troop carriers, specially adapted for the job, which seat up to a dozen passengers each. We were the last called up, and ended up with a family of four, in the tail-end vehicle. The guide was a young bloke whose mother had come from Central Asia somewhere. Was pretty keen on his geology and local flora and fauna. Had the usual stock jokes of outback tourism, but was entertaining enough. We strapped into our seatbelts on longitudinal seats, and hung on for a bumpy ride.    As explained by the guide, the Arkaroola property now known as the "Arkaroola - Mt Painter Wilderness Sanctuary", was an old pastoral lease which was bought in 1968 by one Reg Sprigg, a geologist who made his pile with "Santos", and put the money into establishing the sanctuary. There is a long history of conflict with the SA Government over gazetting the area as a sanctuary, possibly because of its mining potential. The property is currently free of sheep, and visitors are instructed to report them as feral animals. The property has a long history of pastoral activity in the good years, and mining in the dry years. The area is highly mineralised, and geologically very diverse, as the result of volcanic and intense tectonic activity. There is a lot of radioactive mineralisation, and the hot spring at Paralana is so "hot" with radon gas it is unadvisable to spend too much time in the water. Camping in the vicinity is prohibited.    The first part of the tour is taken up with keeping a lookout for three stray camels. Our guide was asked by their keeper to mind them last night, but they made a break for it, and in spite of running for kilometers, he was unable to catch them. The young son of the family manages to spot the male, which is a seriously large camel, a long way across the valley.     We leave the 2WD road through a locked gate and climb into high, dry country, on a fairly good road, with some bad patches, but it isn't exactly a 4wd torture track. For example, nowhere do we need to winch, and only in a couple of places would the Forester be troubled by ground clearance limits. A couple of days work with a good bulldozer would make it quite acceptable for private, proper 4WD's. However, this is not the point, and the drive produces its share of oohs and aahs.  The drive also is not exclusively on the ridge tops, but wanders over hills and through valleys.      Have a stop at Coulthards Lookout for an overall view of the property, and photos all round, plus a quick look at the types of rock we will encounter, then have a nature stop in a creek bed for the lead driver to exhibit a blue tongue lizard. Get explanations of the types of vegetation and trees which grow in different geological zones. Pass the Reg Sprigg monument, with his geological hammer buried in a large rock like Excalibur, waiting for the chosen geologist. Pass a slope with a good coverage of spinifex, then stop at the Split Rock Lookout for views of the rock itself, the panorama of ridges and valleys, then carry on towards the more testing sections of the track, with names indicating the degree of difficulty.     The culmination of the track is Siller's Lookout, which we can see from a long way off, with the road winding up the slope to end in a straight, steep climb to finish on an outcrop, with a high cliff on the far side. Needs a fair bit of speed to make it up, then a quick stop. We are the first there, so there is a reasonable amount of room. We are told to dismount while the driver does the tricky 3-point turn and parks out of the way of the next two vehicles. Pretty crowded by the time they all turn around.   The lookout is a favourite spot for shooting 4WD commercials, and we are told a story of a professional driver from the USA being reduced to tears, and getting one of the regular staff drivers to do it for him.    From here we can see out to flat country to the east, with tree lines indicating large seasonal watercourses. We can see the airstrip at the Beverley Uranium Mine, and further out there is an ex-sheep station which now kills 10.000 kangaroos a year for human consumption. To the north we can see the wilderness area of the Mawson Plateau, and further west The Armchair, and Mount Painter. There is a plaque at the lookout commemorating construction of the road in 1969 by Exoil NL, to facilitate uranium exploration. Don Dunstan carried the first rocks for the cairn. Pass the current mining exploration camp on the way back      In the afternoon when we get back, we take our car on the 2WD road to the local highlights, an old copper smelter, and gorges and waterholes, which are still holding water, albeit green with algae, and not all that pleasant. The gorges are nice and cool, but the flies persist, so we don't hang around too long.     Back at our room, we check out the high internal courtyard in the building, which has an incongruous display of items nautical, most pertaining to the history of the Germein family, related to Reg Sprigg, and presumably associated with Port Germein, just above Port Pirie on Spencer Gulf. Fill the petrol tank, and book in for the evening meal again, with MP trying the local kangaroo, and finding it excellent.Day 15 - 30 Sept 08                             Arkaroola - Hallett Cove    Early start, check at the desk for the best way south. Told that heading south to hit the Barrier Highway at Yunta, but there is about 300 km of gravel road through desert country, so we made sure the road to Leigh Creek was OK, and headed that way. MP takes the opportunity to put his entry into the anti-mining petition book. Unlike those gushing about the fantastic wilderness experience, and the need to keep this area "pristine", MP is forced to admit that he arrived at a resort paid for by rewards from the mining industry, on roads put in by the Mines Department, in a gas-guzzling 4x4, has ridden the Ridge Top road, put in by a mining company in a diesel 4x4, and has toured the places of interest, mainly mining-related, so can't really claim the moral high ground. It would be interesting to see the following comments!      The road crosses rugged, dry country, with the Flinders Ranges to the west, until we pass through an impressive gap in the hills. Pass a couple of interesting, well-kept Aboriginal settlements, and get back to civilisation at the small village of  Copley. Take photos of the colourful hotel, and the junk yard which indicates that the area is a graveyard for cars which couldn't handle the remote conditions. Push on to Leigh Creek, taking a photo of interesting remote country road signs, missing the coal mine, which is further north. Drive around the streets of Leigh Creek, which is a fair sized town, quite neat and tidy, with the street verges of packed gibbers instead of the lawns of more fertile areas. An excellent  solution to a difficult problem.     On the way south, the Flinders Ranges dominate the eastern horizon, and the curve of the Wilpena Pound dish is obvious. Stop at Quorn just in time to run into our travelling companions, who have just returned from their trip on the Pichi Richi Railway train. Bid them farewell again, then check out the train. The steam engine is pretty flash, a big streamliner, 2-4-2 configuration, similar to the famous NSW 3801, but smaller. Get some good photos of the engine and historic wood-panelled carriages.     Follow the railway down the Pichi Richi pass, taking a photo of Devil's Peak, which the others in the group climbed, and towards Port Augusta, but don't feel the need to have a look at the town. Follow the coast road, stopping off at Port Germein to look for connections to Arkaroola, and taking photos of the sea front and the long jetty. Bypass Port Pirie, and cut across the flat land at the top of the Yorke Peninsular. Pass Crystal Brook without stopping, and find a Loch Ness Monster made of rubber tyres embedded in the pink salt of Bumbunga Lake. The nearby village of Lochiel has roadside signs celebrating the monster's local name of Loch Eel.    Decide to pass right through the CBD of Adelaide, playing it by ear as the map we have is pretty small scale. Find some amazing mansions in Goodwood, a suburb SW of the CBD, then find our route to Hallett Cove.      Decide the best place to sleep at Les's place is in the car parked on the terrace outside the garage, with our junk stored in the garage. Works pretty well, as we have our own bathroom and toilet, and access to the kitchen. Catch up with Les, Cornelia, Chris and Karina, plus the new poodle, and the old poodle, which is well past its use-by date, blind and hairless, a good candidate for the "Ugliest Dog in the World" competition.    Go with Les to the local mall for a take-away, and spend the evening catching up, and getting the full story on the amazingly ill-placed monster house across the road. In an example of poetic justice, the rest of his family has left, leaving the owner to enjoy it in solitary splendour.   Get a pretty good nights sleep, although there is a fair bit of wind bouncing the car.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1223011440/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1223011440/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1223011440/tpod.html Fri, 24 Oct 2008 06:04:04 -0400 A trip from Sydney to South Australia, with lots of walking in National Parks

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Flinders Ranges National Park, South Australia, Australia

   Day 16 - 1 Oct 08                               Hallett Cove (Adelaide)    Les has taken a couple of days off work, and when he and Cornelia get back from their 25 km morning bike ride, we go into the city with Les on the train. He has tickets for us, and the system seems to work pretty well,   although the carriages are pretty crowded, and it takes a long time. We have heard and read news articles on the problems of the SA train system, including spending an extraordinary amount on windows. When we first found out about this, we thought "how ridiculous", but when you can't actually read the station names in broad daylight, you realise they have a problem. There is a lot of scratching and graffiti, but the major problem seems to be some sort of coating, which has weathered and peeled. The glass (or plastic, hard to tell), is relatively clear where the coating has peeled.      Get out of the train at the central station, walk the streets, particularly Hindley Street, what passes for a red light district. MP has some history here from working around the clock for York back in the early '70's.The only place you could get a late meal in Adelaide in the '70s was the strip club. Take photos of the streetscape, and a few remarkable old buildings, have a pizza in a fashionable restaurant area, then check out the Botanical Gardens Of particular interest are the Victoria Amazonia lilies (last seen in Mauritius) and various Madagascan plants, which we recognize from our recent trip there. Walk back along the Torrens River, then back to the station for the trip home.   Have another domestic night, and plan for an early start in the morning to look at the Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley.Day 17 - 2 Oct 08                 Hallett Cove (Adelaide Hills and Barossa)    Early start is delayed by Les and Cornelia's 75km morning bike ride, and tyre trouble on the road, so don't get away till after noon. Follow back roads through the hinterland, ending up at Mount Lofty. It has recovered pretty well from the bushfires. Get hazy views out over the city and St Vincent Gulf, and better views of the very pretty Piccadilly Valley to the SW.       Take photos of the historic mill at Bridgewater, then have a fairly ordinary lunch at Hahndorf, which is picturesque, but a bit Disneyland-ish. Have a look for some colourful wine cellars, but end up out in the vineyards, heading up the main road through Woodside, stopping at the interesting Chocolate Factory, where Les goes long on presents for Cornelia. Check out the cheese factory then continue on minor roads to Lobethal, Cudlee Creek, Chain of Ponds, Gumeracha, and past the National Motor Museum, without stopping. Head cross country again to Williamstown, to Lyndoch and on to look at the flash Novotel Barossa Valley Resort on the hill behind Jacobs Creek. A bit flash for us, with a Porsche Owners Convention on. We had seen a bloke walking around with a Porsche jacket on - thought he was a bit of a wanker, but it is possibly allowable for a meet.      Move on to the Jacobs Creek visitor centre, near Tanunda, which is very modern and flash, not really what we were looking for in the historic Barossa. Unfortunately it is now getting late (it was 5pm and they were about to close), so don't have time to go to any more places. However just before Nuriootpa we see "Chateau Dorrien" which doesn't close till 5.30pm, so have five minutes to have a look.  It's a family run winery, and is definitely cashing in on mass tourism.  They seem to specialize in liqueur ports and mead, and have a mural on the old vats.  All a bit kitsch.   The afternoon sun is shining on the green hills, powdered with purple Pattersons curse, so head up into the hills to the east for an overview. End up driving deep into the hills, past deep grassed valleys, and into thick bush. We stumble upon the Heysen Track again, passing over a style into private property.   Call in on Maggie Beer's place near Nuriootpa, but it is after hours. There are rabbits jumping everywhere, maybe tomorrow's pate.  Also quite a few peacocks walking around. Go looking for the avenue of palm trees at the historical Seppeltsfield, with the hilltop mausoleum built in the style of a Doric temple.  Take photos, but too late to investigate further. Head back to Adelaide in the gathering darkness. End up in the Torrens Gorge, which looks amazing, considering we have never heard of it in the Adelaide Hills context, but too late in the day for photos. Find a supermarket near Glenelg to get roast chicken for tea, and provisions for our onward journey to Kangaroo Island. Don't get back till after 8pm.   Have another domestic night in, another night in the car. We are getting used to it, don't know whether the neighbours are.Day 18 - 3 Oct 08        Hallett Cove  - Kingscote (Kangaroo Island) - 150 km      We're off to Kangaroo Island today.  Unfortunately it's Friday of a long weekend in the school holidays, and the only vacancy for the ferry was at 9pm tonight.            Try to catch up with Wally and Ingrid before we head off, but Friday is their market day, and can't raise them on the phone. Later go around and knock on the door, can't raise them, so head down to the Hallett Cove   Conservation area to look at the glacier grooves which we have been told, carry off from the same geology as at Arkaroola. The park is interesting, with boardwalks along the beach and up over the headlands. The rocks are severely folded, with the strata in the eroded water level rock shelf vertical. We would have to take their word for the glacial scrape marks, as they sure aren't obvious. We do the full circuit up over the headlands, and down to an interesting, highly coloured outcrop. On the way back to the car, down in the swampy area, MP has a scare, thinks there is a frog quite close by, in fact, jumping around right in his pocket. Has forgotten he has a frog ring tone on his mobile, and a vibrating phone.     Check again without result for Wally and Ingrid, then head south, generally along the water where possible. Get photos of landforms at Sellicks Beach, then straight to Delamere for petrol. Pull up on the wrong side of the petrol pump, then reverse to reposition the car, failing to see another petrol pump directly behind us, obscured by all the junk in the car. We come to an abrupt halt, think we have knocked over their pump, but it is protected by a massive steel pipe, which dents our bumper. Bummer!    Next stop is the Talisker Conservation Park, where we hope to kill some time waiting for our last-chance ferry tonight, but weather is unpleasant, with a light drizzle, and blowing.  Just on spec, decide to go the extra few kms to Cape Jarvis, and try for a standby on an earlier ferry. There is one leaving almost immediately, and we can probably get on if we wait in the standby lane, but we can definitely get on the 4.30 pm. This suits us fine, so we change our booking, look at the coast around the corner, and head back to Talisker to have a look at the 19th century Cornish silver lead mining and ore processing operation.    The information at the park indicates that the circuit walk takes 1 ½ hours, which we don't have. MP decides to have a quick look at the nearest features of the old mining area, while DP stays in the  car. The mining area turns out to be only a short walk away, so MP takes photos of the mine workings, crusher house and old brick flues laid on the hillside to take away the toxic fumes.        Back at the ferry, have to check in ( return ticket for two people and car is $324 - pretty steep for about 17 kms). MP stays with the car, DP goes with the passengers. Being relatively short and low (the car), we end up right up the front of the cargo deck, under an overhang, inches away from other vehicles. The ferry is new and well set up, with inside lounge areas and outdoor promenades. The cargo deck is open to the sky, and has walkways down either side to the stern. The weather is pretty grim, so we stay mainly inside. Can see Kangaroo Island across the 17 kms of smooth sea, and the high headlands and wind farm of the mainland behind us.      The crossing is uneventful, and get to Penneshaw about 5.15pm. Check in straight away with the Tourist info, which is about to close, to find out the situation with accommodation, as it is a long weekend in school holidays.  They give us camping information, but can't book anything. They have free Wifi, which they say we can use outside the building, as they are closing. Have a quick check of our emails, then  head off towards the American River camping area, looking out for any possible camping spots on the way.     The area around Penneshaw is green and quite pretty, but the road west runs through an avenue of pretty scruffy gum trees, with pastures beyond. Take the turnoff to Baudin Beach, and Brown Beach, where we find the camping areas pretty well deserted, so are much more confident of finding accommodation. Head off the main road toward Pelican Lagoon and Island Beach, on dirt roads through thick scrub. Not too impressed by the beach. Find a lot of private roads, almost back on the main road before we find Pelican Lagoon, and American River aquatic reserve, a shallow, protected extensions of the large Nepean Bay.     We decide not to climb the enormous staircase at Prospect Hill, which offers views across the bay, partly because it is coming on dark, so turn in towards American River, where we hope to find a decent camping area. The town looks pretty desperate, and we can't find the camping area on the way in. Go as far as a large Golden Chain motel, which is either waiting for the Season, or derelict, not sure which, but there is no water in the swimming pool. On the way back, find a small camping area beside the water, but no-one is there, and there are no facilities, so carry on to Kingscote.    We see a turnoff to Brownlow with a camping sign, but it is a long way out of Kingscote, so figure it isn't us. Carry on into the town proper, check out the wharf and waterfront area, and a reasonable CBD area with a fair bit of action. Find a camping sign which leads us along the coast all the way to Brownlow, and the only camping area. They are open for business, and get a choice of several campsites. Take one close to the road, and the exit, but well away from other campers. Use our camp discount voucher to get pretty ordinary fish and chips, which we eat in the camp kitchen area, which we share with a large group of bike riders. They have massage tables set up, and are getting rubbed down by their supporters, after a long day in the saddle.    After tea, go back into town to check it out, but it is now very quiet, so drive back to the camp to set up for another night in the car.Day 19 - 4 Oct 08     Kingscote - Harveys Return (Kangaroo Island) - 208 km (direct)   Head off to see most of the island today, via Birchmore road and South Coast Road, turning off at Seal Bay   Road. Go to the Seal Bay Visitor Centre. We have just missed one tour, but can do the next tour with the boardwalk walk thrown in for the same price, as advised by the over-the-top chatty blonde bimbo at the desk.. The boardwalk takes us along the cliffs for good views of the coastline, which is quite pretty, with cliffs, offshore stacks, white beaches and brilliant blue sea. The weather is fine, but the breeze is pretty chilly. The boardwalk also takes us down to the beach, where we get quite close to Australian Sea Lions lying on the beach. Get a photo of two of them sand surfing on a steep dune. Back to the top just in time for the tour, which has about 20 people. Taken down to the beach, across a bridge over a dry lagoon area. See sea lions in the sandhills, and lots of tracks. The ground under the low scrub is surprisingly clear, probably seal habitat in bad weather. The tour gets us down onto the beach, but not very close to seals, apart from the odd one which crosses our path, or hides under the steps. Get the rundown on the population size and prospects, habitat, range, diet.     Next stop is Vivonne Bay, on the south coast, which is reached on corrugated gravel roads through coastal scrub. It has a number of houses, some pretty exotic, hidden in the scrub, and an excellent long, white beach which stretches east to the sea stack we saw from Seal Bay, and west to the settlement and jetty at Point Ellen. We have to go back to the main road to pick up the road to Point Ellen. Stop on the way in to look at pretty, calm beaches facing Vivonne Bay, then get photos of the jetty before walking out onto the rocky point which protects the bay and jetty.    Our next stop is Kelley Hill Caves, which has walking tracks and a guided tour. We have seen a lot of caves, and the walking track is a long one to the beach at Hanson Bay, so we take the easy option, and drive to Hanson Bay, where we have lunch beside the outlet of South West River, walk around the bay, getting some good photos of the rugged coastline.      Take photos of a pair of Cape Barren Geese beside the road at the Flinders Chase Visitor Centre to pay our way into the park and find out about accommodation. Another chatty blonde, has to be the sister of the one at Seal Bay, seems to think our Visitor's Pass bought on the mainland will cover the admission, but there is no camping in the Chase since the bushfires. We cop this sweet, and she gives us a no-charge receipt for our windscreen, shows us which roads are out of service, and sends us on our way.      The park is pretty big, and we soon get tired of the 40km speed limit, push it up to 60 without problems. Come to the bushfire area, with dead trees reaching to the horizon, some new growth showing close to the ground. Take the Remarkable Rocks turnoff, and get good coastal photos, with white sands, brilliant blue ocean, approaching them. There are a lot of visitors, and a long, easily graded boardwalk leading to the rock. This area is extremely picturesque, and get some great photos of the weathered granite boulders and rugged coastline in spite of the limitations of our camera.      Stop at Weirs Cove to look at the old provision haul way for the lighthouse families, getting more good coastline photos, then to the Cape du Couedic parking area, to walk down to look at the seals. Resist the signpost to the seal viewing area, as told there are closer views if we stay on the path. Walk a long way down another gently   graded walkway to the end of the cape and views over the Casuarina Islets (The Brothers), which have heavy swells from the west breaking around them. The views from the lookout points are spectacular, with large slabs of rock dropping into deep water, with large waves breaking into brilliant white foam. Steps lead down to platforms over the rocky shore, and a walkway to the spectacular Admiralty Arch. There are many sea lions lying on the rocks, basking in a large, elevated rock pool, and diving in the boiling surf off the point. They are quite entertaining, and we watch for a long time. We follow the fortunes of a young sea lion who has trouble getting ashore between the waves, as he hasn't the skill, strength, timing and experience of the larger animals, who make it look easy,      Get photos of incoming waves through the arch, then return to the car. Don't feel the need to do the lighthouse tour, head off toward Cape Borda, which has its 150th birthday celebrations on today. We pass West Bay Road   to the west end of the island, which leads to Shackle Road, which we know is closed by the bushfire. DP thinks some of the area has just recently (lat week) opened, but MP not so sure, and we are running out of time, so go back to the West End Highway, which is tarred, and make good time to Cape Borda.     We get to Cape Borda after the main action has finished, and the workers are tidying up and stacking chairs, but we are welcomed, and one of the staff offers to take us and another couple up into the lighthouse. Tells us some of the history of shipwrecks on this coast, and points us to an interesting photo op with the light visible through a trapdoor. We do the scenic walk a couple of kms to the edge of the cliffs, where we get views down to show us how much we would like to be shipwrecked here, and views along the coast to show how unforgiving the coast is, and how difficult to climb up to the plateau.    We drive a few km back down the road to the turnoff to Scott Cove, which had good views along the coast, but no tracks to the cliff edge, or down to the cove.   Pressed on further to Harveys Return camping area, where we set up camp, then walked down a track to look for the remains of another haul-way for lighthouse supplies. We stopped where the remains of the flattened ramp and haul-way machinery could be seen, but it was too late to go further -almost dark when we got back to the car. We assumed our windscreen sticker would get us past park ranger scrutiny, and set up for the night in a bay with a large tree stump for us to sit on.    A couple who had been walking turned up to set up camp next to a car parked in the next bay. They were locals who were waiting for a walking group to turn up the next day. Invited us to walk with them to (or from) Snug Cove tomorrow, but we had decided by now to leave earlier, rather than later. While we were cooking tea, a wildlife protection truck turned up, and parked around the other side. We thought it might be the ranger, and were getting our story straight, but it was a young woman who was camping there the night. Later a car came in for a look, then the owner of a camper trailer further along returned. Torch lights in the middle of the night from our neighbours, but no problems. Day 20 - 5 Oct 08       Harveys Return (Kangaroo Island) - Bordertown - 520 km     Early start, heading east, calling into every sea access point we could find. The first was 16 km into Western River Cove, a pretty valley in green pasture country, ending in a tannin-stained estuary, with a camping area and   very chancy bridge across to the beach and a tiny bay. Had breakfast here, then along the coast road to Snelling Beach, King George Beach, and Stokes Bay, where we got out to have a good look. At the end of the rough, shingle beach found a strange sign among the rocks pointing to the beach. Followed a narrow, winding track through the limestone rocks to an unspoilt sweep of sandy beach.       On the way back to the main road, came upon some excellent displays of canola in flower, then descended the gentle escarpment to the Cygnet River Valley, and back around Nepean Bay to Penneshaw. We were booked   on the 8am ferry on Monday morning (tomorrow) but decided we may would leave this afternoon if possible, so that we could get a few kms up before stopping for the night.  Checked at the ferry wharf, but were directed to   the office up the road, and made the change. We were to be charged extra for the change, told we would probably get on as standby for no charge, but decided to be sure, and booked the 4pm ferry. We also found out that, as the re-booking would negate our original booking, and we would now be booking direct, we could use the seniors card. The change cost us $4 instead of $20, and left us with a certain booking so we could use the time to look at the south east corner, completing the Kangaroo Island picture.     We head down Willoughby Road to Cape Coutts and the river which runs into Antechamber Bay, and lunch beside the very pretty estuary, with paperbarks in the still, tannin-stained water. Take photos of the estuary, and   the white sandy beach running around Antechamber Bay. Carry on along the river on a causeway, then climb up through green pastureland to the lighthouse on Cape Willoughby. The Lighthouse seems to be off-limits unless you pay for the full tour, so chip in for the walking path, which takes us over the curve of the hill toward the boat harbour and the end of the beach. Decide there isn't a lot to be seen here, and Dianne wants to find the great granite boulders shown on the postcards, so head further over the curve, onto steep slopes with sheep tracks between granite boulders and savage thorn bushes. Go as far as we can safely, and get some good photos of the granite boulder cliffs and the sea below, but not the ones in the postcards, and can't see as far as the lighthouse. Climb back to the top, and walk to the cliffs below the lighthouse for better views.      Back at the visitor centre, Dianne asks where the photo was taken from, and they tell us that it was taken from the south side, reached by climbing the stile and walking to the point. However it won't look exactly the same, as the photo has been reversed when it was printed! We find a deep rocky inlet right below the lighthouse, and steep cliffs to the south west, with lots of white water breaking onto the rocks. Quite spectacular.   We then head back to town, getting to the ferry in good time to check in and line up. MP chooses the third lane, as the first two are full, but the loading plan allows people just arriving to fill up lanes 1 and 2, so it takes forever to board. MP is glad we have a firm booking. This is a different ferry, not as flash, with a plastic roof over the load deck, and less internal lounge seating, but is still ok. Have another calm passage, highlighted by a pod of dolphins following us for a couple of kilometers.    At some stage we have decided to try to cross South Australia and Victoria lower down than on our outward journey, so plot a course which retraces our route as far as Tailem Bend, then take the Princes Highway to get a look at the Coorong, then across into the Mallee country, and possibly as far as Bendigo.    We still stop to take photos, as the Fleurieu Peninsular is very pretty. Get good photos of Victor  Harbour, grape vines around Langhorne Creek, then concentrate on the kilometers. Get a walkup start onto the Wellington ferry. Realise we will be looking at the Coorong in the dark, so make an executive decision, and abandon our plan to go further South, and swing up to Tailem Bend to make as good time as we can down the Dukes Highway, considering it is late afternoon and prime kangaroo time.   As it is getting too late to make a meaningful stop at a caravan park, and there is no way we are going to drive right through, find a motel open at Bordertown, and book in, reluctantly taking a higher-priced unit further back from the highway, at a discount to the normal rate because of our reluctance. It was still $100 per night - for a very ordinary room in a very ordinary town!  Knock up a makeshift meal from the supplies in the esky, and Dianne runs the very ordinary, somewhat tired,  spa bath, which the owner considered was upmarket. Pull out extra blankets from the cupboard, and Dianne turns on the electric blanket (that WAS luxury) and collapse.Day 21 - 6 Oct 08                     Bordertown - Sydney  1441 km     We are surprised to find it has been raining through the night, and it is still pretty grim. Take a look at the downtown area of Bordertown, which is pretty big, with the usual  country services, but it is pretty quiet because  today is Monday on a long weekend. Get pies and sausage rolls to fuel us on our way, via Nhill and Dimboola. MP is pleased to get a photo of a sign reading Nhill Melbourne, just like the recent league grand final. Take a photo of the Dimboola Hotel, large and distinctive, but fire damaged, on the main street of the town made infamous by the play. We have decided that the Mallee district will have to wait for another trip, and head  north through Warracknabeal, and the minor towns of Birchip, Culgoa, Ultima, and into Swan Hill, encountering some storms on the way, and finding the park in Swan Hill pretty drenched. Looked at the river, and the historic area from the outside, decide we don't need the experience. Lunch at Maccas, and cross the rickety bridge into NSW, and on into farming land which has been ploughed, but not yet planted.      Cross the Edward River at Moulamein, taking photos of the Courthouse down by the river, accessed by a bridge across a billabong, then on toward the Sturt Highway at Ravensworth, and across the desolate Hay plains, and Hay itself, where we take the mid-Western Highway through much better country, with red soil, and green rolling fields of young wheat. Just before dark, take a photo of some very red sheep, stained with dust. The roads are good, but we have to regulate our speed according to the kangaroo risk.       Arrive at West Wyalong after dark, but figure we can keep going to Sydney, rather than stop at a motel. Are surprised by the size of West Wyalong, expecting two shops and a pub. We are pleased to get off the Newell Highway and back onto the relatively quiet Mid-Western Highway to Grenfell and Cowra which look pretty good -well worth a visit on another trip. Miss the town of Blayney, but see some of the wind towers. Are pretty desperate for something to eat by Bathurst, which looks like the plague has visited, with everything closed. Finally find some fast food at a servo on the way out. We find that the Bathurst 1000 is next week, which explains the tranquility.     We push on toward Sydney, kept awake by our talking books, courtesy of our local library, which have been very useful and entertaining, if sometimes grim. Ruth Cracknell's husband takes eight CD's to die after their trip to Venice, and is still hanging in when we get home. The run through the Blue Mountains has been the usual nightmare of changing road lanes and speed limits, but it is probably getting better.  We are breathalysed at Katoomba.  Finally arrive home about 2.30am. Park the car in the street at home because of Poddy, and take up only the really valuable stuff. The village crims can have the rest.  Collapse into our own bed for the first time in three weeks, after driving 6085 kms, and encountering freezing weather, gales, heatwaves and fly plagues.                                                                           oooo0000oooo 
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1224913140/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1224913140/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/9/1224913140/tpod.html Fri, 24 Oct 2008 01:40:29 -0400 A trip from Sydney to South Australia, with lots of walking in National Parks

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Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

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Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

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Kangaroo Island, South Australia, Australia

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]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/8/1217136360/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/8/1217136360/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/8/1217136360/tpod.html Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:17:35 -0400 Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan by truck, followed by three weeks of taking it easy on Turkish coast.

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Singapore, Singapore

Tuesday 22 July                        Canakkale - Anzac Cove    Another good hotel breakfast spoiled by pretentious fancy bread, rather than the excellent local product.   MP down to breakfast first, then walks around the town checking out bus offices for bus/ferry connections back to Istanbul, but can only come up with direct bus services, so comes back to discuss with DP, then buys tickets for an exorbitant 40 YTL each from Metro, can only get seats 13 and 14, because the bus is full. Off to the Yellow Rose Hostel to wait for our Gallipoli tour.  There is a young English couple there, and on their way out, comment on DP using the Palm keyboard. Ping them as the owner of the 2CV parked outside, and go out with them for a look. Notice holes drilled in the doors, twig that these used to have fuel jerrycans attached, and that we met them in Mali at Mac's Refuge in January 2007.  Talk about a small world! They are Matt and Safia, and are on their way back through Bulgaria. The car has been painted, and the boot moulding, and timber floor are new since we saw them, but the similarities of their setup with ours 32 years ago are remarkable. They had major gearbox trouble in Turkey, and their back bumper is held on by their towing straps, but otherwise they are in good shape.   Told the tour starts at 11.20am, and just before midday our guide finishes his coffee and we set off on foot to the vehicle ferry, get in with his smart card, sit on the top deck in a strong wind, waiting for the ferry to fill. There is a big Metro bus waiting to board, so we work out that is the way we are getting to Istanbul, and we will get a cross section of Thrace.    Ferry runs a fair way up the Dardanelles, to the town of Eceabat, which has a typical rash of highrise up the hills. Walk along the foreshore to a traditional restaurant, where the guide sits us down, tells us it is a buffet served by staff, and he sits at another table. Our table has about 20 places, but we get our soup and traditional potato, tomato and onion, and aubergine, not bad, and MP pretty hungry. By the time we finish, the FezBus which has the other starters on the tour has arrived, and we drop their guide, fit the two of us and our guide in, and away up the Dardanelles, then inland to the battlefield area.    Our first stop is at the visitor centre at Kabatepe, where the Anzacs were supposed to land on a gently sloping shore, in a long, flat valley between low ridges.  Either by design, to stay further from the Turkish Army, or mistake due to the current carrying the rowing boats NW, they landed at Anzac Cove, with deeper water, a very steep shoreline, and Turkish heavy machine guns on the ridge.       Move on to Anzac Cove, where the new road cut into the hillside has changed the whole impression of the area, as the terrain was very steep, but not impossible as the high road embankments suggest. Take photos of the beach both ways, and walk along an eroding path 10 metres above the beach to the south and the cemetery at the original medical site, just about trip over Simpson's headstone. Sit in the shade of an oak tree, on the damp grass, getting info from the guide, then   look around the headstones, including N.H. Morrow, and C.J. Pryor. On to the Ariburnu cemetery, which has a statement by Attaturk to the mothers of the fallen soldiers, where welook at more graves, including a F.H. Cook, W.H. Benson, and get down onto the beach and into the shallow water. More photos each way, get a telephoto of a ferry entering the Dardanelles.       From here move north to the main commemoration area, by the sea, below "The Sphinx" landmark, with   Plugges Plateau to the south, Walkers Ridge to the north, all very rugged eroded areas, possibly worse after shelling and 90 years of weather than before the landing.  Read and photograph the 10 plaques on the marble wall here, then back and up the   ridge to Lone Pine, where we look at the main Australian monument, with all the names, including H.H.Wharton, D. Cook, J.W. Cook, and J.T. Cook. Take photos along the coastline, all the way to Helles Point.    Move on to where you can see the narrow separation of Turkish and Anzac trenches, and tunnels above Monash gulley. From here you can see all the way to Suvla Bay, to the north, and out to sea, where Limnos can just be made out through the haze.    Next stop is at the Turkish memorial for the 57th Battalion, with a large statue of a Turkish soldier, a smaller statue of a veteran and his granddaughter, and a monument in a walled enclosure, with Turkish graves, and a parking area with tacky souvenirs, drinks and ice creams and a toilet.        From here climbed to the highest point, where the NZ monument, an Attaturk statue, and a high Turkish flagpole are located. This point was a major objective, held for a while by NZ, then retaken. The Attaturk statue commemorates him surviving when shrapnel hit his watch over his heart.   Get some good photos of the area in general, and down to Suvla Bay in particular, plus views over the Dardanelles. Back to Eceabat to drop of one passenger who was returning to Istanbul tonight, plus an emergency loo stop at our restaurant for MP.     Surprised to find us heading south away from the ferry, but find we are taking the smaller and quicker ferry from Kilitbahir, just near the circular walled fortress. Wait quite a while for the ferry to load, then across to the town, getting a look at the fortress on the Canakkale side of the channel. Dropped off at the Yellow Rose, walk home for a rest.   Later, out to get money, then to our fish restaurant, where DP orders the usual sardines with salad on a plate, gets sardines in a roll, still good, but not as anticipated. Should know by now not to have high expectations when repeating a good meal - something always goes wrong! Walk the town, around the back of the Naval Museum, and the fort, but looks a bit dicey, so return to the narrow, well peopled streets, DP gets a Salepi Dondurma, the special ice-cream sampled last night. Made from goat's milk, and flour from wild orchid tubers, and a mastic resin. Sounds wild, but tastes OK. Have a look at a computer games room, where all the occupants are lounging in bean bags while they play - all the comforts of home!   Wednesday 23 July                             Canakkale - Istanbul    Woken early by serious drilling and hammering on the wall, so decide to rise and shine. Pack, and down for a good breakfast spoiled by bad bread. Down to the Metro office by 8.30, and directed to the bus waiting in the ferry queue. Looks deserted at first, but spot the baggage man, and  get the bags on. DP waits in the bus, MP walks around. Under way by 9, onto the ferry, off the ferry by 9.30. Head out along the bank of the Dardanelles, on a windy road which throws the softly sprung bus around a lot. We're on the wrong side of the bus, with a window pillar, so not great for photos, but get some of the water, and the pine clad slopes. Stay by the water all the way to Gelibolu, which has beach suburbs and swimming areas. The main road heads west across the peninsular to some nice coastline on the Bay of Sarus, with the usual concentrations of condos, then north west, away from the coast, and our final destination for a long while, presumably to avoid rugged pine-clad mountains along the Sea of Marmara, before picking up the main east-west road at Kesan. Then heading due east, through good farming land, meeting the coast at Tekirdag, a port town, with ferry services to the other side.      From here the road follows the coast, sometimes with a continuous strip of high rise housing half a km deep from the shore. Stop at a dedicated Metro restaurant attached to a BP servo, selling premium petrol for 3.56 YTL a litre.    Istanbul outer industrial suburbs start from good farming land 60 km out, and by 30 km, it is fully suburban, with massive groups of high rise blocks.   Do a few loops on the freeway to get to the Otogar, then into the bowels of the earth past scores of buses to the Metro depot. Knock back an offer from a taxi driver, but do get directions to the metro from him. Up several flight of steps, some with bag ramps beside, then down into the metro. Decide to backtrack to Zeytinburnu to pick up  an empty tram, rather than the quicker forward connection to Aksaray. Have trouble finding the right way from the metro into the tram, but manage with help. Get seats near the door. The tram fills, but has emptied enough by Sultanahmet for us to get out OK with our bags. DP buys us a pastry to keep us going on the way to Hotel Anadolu. First indication is that it is full without a reservation, but our email has got through, and we are welcomed. Our bag that we left here two weeks agos is still behind the desk, and we are in good shape.    No fridge or A/C or balcony, but rate is only 77 YTL a day, cheaper than before.  Also a/c is not such a worry, as it is actually cool this afternoon, for the first time in weeks. Rest for a while, then out to find the perfect meal at a small price. Walk down into the lower town past Aghia Sofia, see some interesting non-tourist areas, and some of the classic old wooden houses in an as-is state. Walk under the train line, get deafened by a train on the way back. Watch a drama played out by a fat middle aged woman, a young boy waif, maybe 4 years old, and the police. The boy was supposed to sit and beg on the footpath, while his mother/minder kept watch up a side street on the other side of the road. When the police turned up, he ran heedlessly across the road to avoid them,  but back on the job after they leave. Looks bored as hell, and his mind was not really on the job. Someone gives him the remains of a can of drink while we watch.   Thursday 24 July                                       Istanbul   Gird up for an  assault on the Topkapi Palace after breakfast, when DP finally wakes up after a sleeping tablet taken to counter various noises in the night, all of which MP sleeps through (as usual).   Walk up the side street beside Aghia Sofia, past the famous marble water tank with taps, called a fountain, through the gates guarded by machine gun toting soldiers, and through the park to the main gates (10 YTL each). Revisited after 30 years, Topkapi Palace still impressed us with the treasures, particularly big diamonds and emeralds, good views of the Bosphorus and Golden Horn, but avoid the 7YTL cans of  coke on sale at the flash restaurant. Other highlights; the relics, including John the Baptist's arm; the prophet's hair, tooth, and footprint. Pretty well museumed out by 3pm so back to get a feed of the good local half-bread chicken doners, 2 YTL each, with a magnificent view of the Blue Mosque thrown in for free. then back to the room for a rest.   Out at 5pm to climb down the hill to the south, looking for the wooden houses we saw last night. Found lots, took lots of photos of impossible, maybe and possible fixer-uppers, as well as some of the renovated numbers, and picturesque streets, ending up where we were 8 weeks ago. Passed through a really depressed area, with lots of young children, could be a gypsy area, so didn't hang around, then bought a coke and sat to read and take it easy in a well-used and pleasant local park.  Surprised that it had an arm-banded minder with a loud whistle to keep people off the grass, which was pretty thick and green. More colourful building photos, then have an eventful 3/4 hour doing 15 minutes worth of uploading at an internet cafe. Walk up through an industrial neighbourhood, where we're accosted by a man selling fruit off the back of a truck. At 1.5 YTL for peaches, 1 YTL for grapes, a bit hard to resist, although we're leaving tomorrow.    We have had a surprisingly thrifty couple of days, so, as we are near Capili Carsi, trade in 140 YTL for $US 115, leaving enough for a good meal and transport tomorrow. Buy tram tokens on the way back to the hotel, where we rest and eat peaches and grapes.   Out at 9 to the recommended Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi Selim Usta restaurant, whose main claim to fame is meatballs since 1924. The menu is pretty basic, lamb kebab, or meatballs, 2 salads, semolina dessert.   Choose meatballs, kebab, salad and a coke, for 27 YTL, all excellent, then back later, after a walk, for a 4 YTL semolina dessert which is also their specialty. Better than expected, but could have settled for 1 YTL worth.  Walk the Hippodrome to look at the historic columns, take photos of Kaiser Wilhelm's fountain, and the well-lit mosque in the main street, and watch the beggar boy in action again. Sneak a photo of him, then back home before 10.    Friday 25 July                               Istanbul-Dubai-Singapore     Up before the alarm, breakfast and complete pack. MP as always keen to get on the road, out about 9 AM - now know the short cuts to the tram. There is one approaching when we arrive, decide not to rush it, even though the front section of this one looks pretty empty. Next tram, get in alright, not a bad position standing, as there are longitudinal seats handy, for when someone vacates. DP gets a seat early, and a man with a family shifts his son onto his lap, and offers a seat further back, but MP declines, waiting for a seat closer to the exit. Don't have to wait long, as tram never really fills, possibly due to Uni holidays. Good views of the walls on the way out, still haven't had a good look at them, or got any good photos. Manage to get confused at the transfer to the Metro, even though we have done this a few times, but get help going in the out gate from a staff member.   Have to stand on the way to the airport, but it isn't all that far, and not crowded. Shorter haul to the International Departures than our previous domestic flight. No sign of our flight on the small local monitors, so find seats and finish off the grapes and peaches from yesterday that DP has persevered with. MP goes to find an Exchange office, expecting to have to go out through security and back in, but finds an escalator straight down to Arrivals, back in 10 minutes with $US 20, and information from the main departures board that we can check in. We are pretty early, but unable to dictate which seats we want. Have our window seats, as per our profile, but are over the wing, as usual, as the flight is full. Have a smooth passage through immigration, although we have to outmaneuver a group who are keeping their options open on two queues.   Get some good views over the Sea of Marmara early, then view disappears into haze and cloud, as we can only look out, not down. Movies are not "on demand", and are pretty ordinary, but flight isn't too much of an ordeal, only 3 hours, can see the ground into Dubai, get photos of the city which looks like it is flooded with dirty water, but it is only sand. DP does the security shuffle to go and look at the terminal, MP holds the fort in the plane with the cabin baggage. It is dark when we fly out, but get some good city lights views, and some photos. Get some sleep in the 8 hours to Singapore, arrive in the dark, about 5.30 am local time.    Saturday 26 July                                  SingaporeThrough immigration and customs without hassle. Pretty quiet in the airport. Check out possible hotel bookings from the airport, but seems difficult to avoid the extra night's charge for early check-in, so get out $S200, in 50's, and head for the metro to buy tickets, then get the first train into Bugis Station, changing at Tanah Merah. Now pretty familiar with the walk to Arab Street. Try the 81 Hotel, find this is the address, not the price, and they are full anyway. Move on to the hotel we used before, Mayo Inn, but it is full also. Try the backpackers, but dorms only, then a fairly ordinary hotel, which has rooms, but at $S170. At this stage, MP camps with the bags, and DP goes searching, finally coming up with a $S105 room at the Madras Hotel, possibly a by the hour establishment, looking at their short term conditions, but we manage an immediate start, and no charge for early check-in.   The room is pretty ordinary, but the water is hot, the bed is big, and the A/C works, possibly too well. We find a blanket, and have good, real sheets (and TWO of them for the first time in quite a while) so cop it pretty sweet, and sleep through to the afternoon.    Ring John and Caroline, who happen to be in the area, and, after sorting out some spurious hotel information (we collected the card for the sister hotel by mistake, and had given them that address) they turn up and we head out to see the town, via the bar of the nearby Aussie hangout pub, the Thieves Market, and the grounds of the Ethnographic Museum, where Malay children were dancing, as there was a special festival.  Buy snacks and an Asian noodle drink. Using spare commuter smart cards supplied by our hosts, hopped a bus through the streets, with no real idea where we were heading. There are a lot of new developments since we were last there. End up at an Irish bar at the top of Orchard Road for savagely expensive drinks, and medium expensive fillet mignon hamburgers, watching the Wallabies-All Blacks Bledisloe Cup match. Get a pleasing outcome, limit total beer consumption to 2 ½ pints (MP), and catch another bus back to Little India, where John and Caroline head to the big supermarket, MP and DP back to the hotel for packing and setting numerous wakeup signals for the morning. Another chilly night under the blankets hiding from the A/C drafts.Sunday 27 July                                  Singapore - Sydney   Wake before the alarm, down at the Metro by 6.30am local time (but 1.30am Turkish time) to trade in our old tickets, buy new ones, and onto the first train of the day, while it is still dark. Change at Tanah Merah, trade in our new tickets for cash, and get Sky Train to Terminal 3. Chec-kin OK, get a non-wing window seat, and off on time at 9.30am for a reasonably smooth flight with on-demand movies, and a much wider selection than the previous flight. See some interesting salt lakes over Australia, but a bit hard to do too much looking, as everyone in the plane is watching movies. Into Sydney well after dark, and quickly through Immigration, but have a long wait for bags. Through the "nothing to declare lane for the first time in a lot of flights, possibly slower than the declared route. Picked up by Adam in our car, then to Paddington to drop him off and make the changeover. Home carefully, with MP driving for the first time in two  months, and on the opposite side of the road.   Welcome home, with Pay TV out of action, one computer dead, electric heater zapped, and really cold weather! 
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/8/1216655880/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/8/1216655880/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/diannemurray/8/1216655880/tpod.html Wed, 03 Sep 2008 08:33:05 -0400 Turkey, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan by truck, followed by three weeks of taking it easy on Turkish coast.

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Canakkale, Turkish Aegean Coast, Turkey

Tuesday 15 July     Oludeniz  MP has lazy morning. DP out to internet to download photos. In the afternoon, decide to go down for another very late bread and ham lunch. For our afternoon walk, we take the road around the town to the south corner of the beach, have a cooling swim, then up the hill to the sign for the Baba Dag 13 km walking track. Climb the steps up the road embankment, see a lot of blue path markers, duck under a water pipe, and continue along a well-made, obvious path to the right, which climbs through a roughly terraced slope. Can't find any path markers, but there are plenty of goat tracks through the scree and between rough boulders  and viciously prickly knee-high bushes. It has become obvious that the path is not here, or not marked,  but continue upward, taking different paths, heading towards a phone tower and masonry walls we can see beyond a bluff. Eventually MP pulls the plug, although DP, on a lower path, wanted to continue around the bluff. Have lost a fair bit of skin by now, and bleeding, so take the best path back to our starting point.   It turns out that where we duck under the pipe, looking toward the obvious path, the true path takes a sharp left, and heads uphill, quite well marked, under a power line.  We follow this until we get to a good viewpoint beside a ravine, then call it quits. Head out on the road to see where we might have ended up, could have been OK. Still 30C degrees at 7.30pm.   Back to the beach for a cooling swim, buy more peaches and provisions and head for home.   At 3 AM, DP gets up and goes out to the restaurant area to check up on the ASX by wi-fi, as the stock exchange had a serious dip, and she has an  order in to buy some shares. Pings a whole lot of hotel guests heading home, some with non-guest company. The town is still fairly active.   Wednesday 16 July                           Oludeniz - Marmaris   Another hotel breakfast, getting tired of them, time to leave! Stop a  Fethiye minibus, about 9.30am, on the street (3.5 YTL each), and get a look at the large and active commercial main street of the package hotel area at the top of the hill. Dropped at the Otogar, where our taxi dropped the sails on the way to Oludeniz.  Ask and find the Marmaris bus, which is a pay-on-board,  waiting with a couple of passengers. Determine it is leaving in 15 minutes. Put our daypack on the front seats, and our bags in the boot. Sit in the gutter and wait, as it is too hot in the bus. Get in when the motor starts. Pay a fair bit (16 YTL each) on exit of the Otogar, then do the classic slow departure, for the first 10 km, picking up passengers.   The town of Fethiye is big, and pretty ugly, and doesn't improve until we are well away, getting views of high rocky mountains, and back to the coast. The countryside is well timbered, and has reasonable farming land, and is relatively green. There are some sea views. Call into medium sized towns on the way, but all are pretty ordinary. There is a serious escarpment where the main road climbs up towards Mugla, with views of the deep bay just west of the Marmaris road, before it climbs into heavily wooded hills, and drops into the valleys above Marmaris, which are now heavily infested with highrise residential developments.   The Otogar is at the foot of the hills, a long way from the centre. We resist urgers who want to get us into minibuses, and look for accommodation agents without luck. Decide we should go to the centrum, advise a minibus of exactly that, then change our minds at the centrum. He moves us forward to take up less space, and we drive through a busy street lined with hotels. We are encouraged by vacancy signs on one hotel, but hang in to the Siteler terminus.   It is downhill from here towards the centre, a few kms back, so, rather than get a minibus back, we drag the bags. DP checks out a hotel complex, finds a vacancy for an all-inclusive (food and drink) at 170 YTL for 2, half of Oludeniz rates, but we carry on, and find a room empty sign at the Ozan Apartments. Check first that there is a pool, then look at apartments for 60 YTL, selecting the one not on the top, hot floor. Should be 70, but Mme settles on 60, for 2 nights only, as is booked. Can't pay now, but book in, go for a good swim almost immediately in the cool, clean water of the pool.   After it cools off, walk as far as the Maccas at the market, have an expensive meal, with DP's MacTurco chicken only fair. Buy drinks at the market, then decide to walk all the way in to the centre. See a sign to the beach, so cut through a typical wasteland to find a remarkably well presented waterside promenade, with beach umbrellas, rows of restaurants, live entertainment venues, hotels, all the way in to where the moorings of the hundreds of day-trip boats started. Checked out one all-inclusive day trip at 25 YTL, surprisingly good value, maybe an "Aussie" price.      Reaching the main quay area, roughly the extent of the main town area 30 years ago, encountered extensive covered streets and market areas. Walked around the point, covered with flash, and quite attractive bars and restaurants, ending up at the massive marina, which was dwarfed by the forest of masts across the bay.    Rested at the fishing boat haven. Thought we had seen the lot, but found the back street area where the real people live, bought bread and peaches, found the Centrum minibus stop, and back to our apartment.   Have a meal of peaches, bread and peanut butter. Had intended to do a day-trip out to Datca, 70kms away on the peninsular, but it would involve a fair bit of back-tracking, so decide to spend the night there, and take the ferry to Bodrum from there, which means we'll only stay here one night, which is a shame, as we really like it, but we're starting to run out of days. DP down to deliver the bad news and pay for the one night.    Out later at night to see the source of the ear splitting music nearby, which is mainly good stuff, but will make it hard to sleep. Apple Bar has a lot of patrons, mustn't be great conversationalists. Walk west to find an alley down to the sea, find a continuation of the promenade we took into town. Still lots of restaurants, swimming pools, beach beds and umbrellas, but less of the lager lout culture. Walk a long way, part through some sort of park, with fences each side. Not tempted to eat or drink. Walk beside the remarkably clear and clean (at night) sea, as far as a large hotel, then back.  We've been pleasantly surprised with Oludeniz and Marmaris.  There's no escaping the fact that they are package tour meccas, but having walkways all along the waterfront makes them much nicer than a lot of other resort towns where individual hotels take over the waterfront. Music at the Apple Bar has become more techno, still as loud, but manage to sleep with all the doors and windows closed, and the A/C running.  Thursday 17 July                 Marmaris - Datca   Early start, basic breakfast, and down to the street for a minibus by 9am, at the Otogar by 9.30 - it's already 29 degrees.  Find our bus, put bags aboard, claim the front two seats, then MP has to go and get tickets (9 YTL each). Allotted 11 and 12, asks for 1and 2, but the agent has already marked the seating chart. Relents, crosses out the old numbers, gives us 1and 2, which are behind the driver. The coveted 3 and 4, on the side we have claimed, are already taken. We shift our bags, turns out well in the end, as this is the preferred side to view the coast.   Wait in the bus, which is relatively cool till 10, when we leave with practically a full bus, but still pick up extras only 200 metres from the otogar. Some have to sit in the jump seat, and on the step. Take the Datca Road, which runs inland through blocks of 3 and 4 storey developments, making some pickups, then into the foothills, where the valleys are full of these development blocks.  Climbing away from the coastal plain, do a series of switchbacks, pass a viewpoint with a lot of landrovers on "safari", stopped at the first highlight of the day, complete with souvenir stalls. Over the hill, lose sight of the sea, find ourselves in timbered mountains. Stop at the turnoff to Icmeler, where we had considered staying, pick up a group of 4 large tourist ladies, with definite views on where they should, and should not sit. Gold-sandals was NOT going to sit in the jump seat, so other, more easy-going passengers were rearranged, NOT US.  See spectacular sea views on both sides (one is Inbuku?), drop passengers at an enormous, closely packed camping area, mainly for locals. Drop the tourist ladies at a beachfront hotel complex, then on to Datca through mountainous terrain, with sea views.   Can see Datca as a small, quaint collection of white buildings on the far side of a big bay. Looks less cute as we get nearer, with the typical large outcrop of project medium-rises on the outskirts. Not looking forward to getting out at the Otogar, but stop in the main street at the Pammukkale Bus Office, much closer to the action.   We want to find out the ferry situation before we commit to a room - directed 400 metres down the main street to the mosque, where we find the ferry office with a big sign on it. It is now blowing pretty hard from the NW, with lots of whitecaps in the bay, so would prefer not to sail today (there's a boat at 5pm).  Also want time to look around, as the town looks really interesting.  Can book for the morning at 8.30, 25 YTL each, sounds good, so we can start looking for a room. The Deniz Hotel reception is right next door. Looks a bit flash, DP not keen, but try anyway. Climbs 3 floors to look, hot, but not too bad, beat them down to 80 YTL, with breakfast, have to tip bag men. Both of us end up tipping, as didn't realise the other had.    Out to look at the town,. Walk towards the point, find a beach and a boat harbour full of fishing boats, yachts and charter Gulets. Quite charming, in spite of the wind whistling in the rigging, and bullets of breeze stirring up the bay. Walk around the boat harbour, then up past the modern amphitheatre for a view out to sea, then around the inner headland, past our hotel, and along the promenade around the inner harbour beach.    Check out the restaurants, look some fish in the eye, and settle on sea bream for 10 YTL each, with a basic salad of rocket, onion and a couple of pieces of tomato, plus a plate of cips, (sic), and an aubergine salad, plus a large beer and a white wine. It must be the seafront resort syndrome getting to us, but it is pretty good. The aubergine salad fails to materialise, but end up with a good feed for 36.5 YTL.   Have a short walk in the streets, then back to the room for a sleep.    About 5pm when some of the heat has gone, we venture out to find the wind has picked up to over 30 knots. Walk past the boat harbour and along a rocky beach to the south. Quite a few locals here. in spite of the wind lifting spray off the water. A promenade starts further along, has two curved bridges over a strong flow of water from a small lake with a man-made dam wall. The amount of outflow is astounding when you see how parched the mountains behind are.  There is a green, well-watered park beside the lake. and a camping area, with hundreds of patrons, and hiking tents placed close together. Must be some sort of youth group.   Walk out toward the point, past a small beach and to what looks like a new sewer works. Head back into the wind, now up to 40 knots in the gusts, lifting the surface in sheets of spray.    Back at the boat harbour, check out the restaurants, decide on the recommended Emek. Can see the balcony from the water, but have to circle around to the back street to find the entrance. They have sea bream for 10, so decide to give it a go with salad, chips, coke, beer, wine, comes to 50, which makes it a big day of eating at 98 YTL, plus snacks.   There are surprising fishing photos in the lobby, waiter confirms they are the owner's sons with them, caught locally. The "Captain" does the rounds of the customers, confirms that the weather is unusual, the result of rain to the north, will be producing 4 metre swells on the ferry side of the peninsular, but should ease by morning. Talk to German table neighbours, one has his own yacht, has come from Finland in the last 2 years.   Walk the town, into the back streets, past the main mosque, internet to check weather, which seems to be better in Bodrum, our destination. DP has a bad night's sleep. with noisy and cold A/C, strange, small (single, for two people) abrasive cotton bedcover, noisy people outside, dog choruses, the very-close 4.30am mosque, and early morning trucks.   Friday 18 July                         Datca - Bodrum   Up before the alarm, downstairs by 8 to leave our pack with the other ferry luggage next door, while we have our more meagre than most Turkish breakfast. Bus turn up at 8.15, bags in, get front seats, slow 10 km trip, picking up on the way, over a low saddle with reasonable agricultural land on the way, large, rocky mountains to the west.    Surprised to see a large, commercial ferry in the harbour, with a crowd of passengers already on the shaded upper deck. Looks like we will miss out on a seat on the shady side, but manage the last two after leaving our big bags downstairs with the cars.   There are some flash yachts in the boat harbour, and fishing boats. No evidence of waves washing over the seawall yesterday, but it must have been pretty wet inside the seawall. When we leave, there is a light chop, 10 knots of NW wind, and isolated whitecaps out in the gulf.   It is a bit chilly in the shade, OK in the sun. MP takes photos of the harbour, rugged coastline and interior mountains, and the Greek island of Kos clearly visible off the port bow.  Can see white buildings curving down a hill to the west of Bodrum, but the main town remains obscured by Gorecek Island. Closer in, can see curiously curved rows of buildings, a fort to the west side of town with a big Turkish flag, and the St Peters fort to the right of the harbour. To the east of the town are large resort developments, and a very large boatyard. Out off the harbour is moored a large, 1930's vintage steam yacht, with a hydrofoil from Kos passing it. The breeze has dropped, and by the time we enter the harbour full of yacht and charter gulets, it is hot and still.   The ferry anchors out and backs into a gap, causes some rapid action from crews either side, ties up and drops the rear ramp. No dedicated car ferry berth required!   The first car off finds it a bit scary, others manage ok. Get our bags and away after the first wave, and start walking east. See a set of signs to pensions, but decide to continue east. At a bend in the promenade, see a small hotel, Gurup. MP urges DP to at least have a look, even though it seems to be too well-located to have any vacancies. However we can't believe our luck when we get a first floor balcony facing the boat harbour for 80 YTL, too easy!    Sort ourselves out, then head toward the castle end of the promenade, before cutting through a vine covered walkway full of air conditioned shops, which also cooled the street. Then came to a street of shops and bars with the sea directly behind them, so that each had a stunning view. Bought bread and pastries, continued to the start of other swimming beach, then inland through narrow, whitewashed streets looking in vain for a supermarket.   Bought drinks at a small market, found the main streets and intersection with the noisy mosque which we hadn't seen earlier, but which was right next to our place. Tourists busy taking photos of Muslims praying on the footpath outside the mosque (it's Friday). Back to the room to sleep (or rest) away the heat of the afternoon.   Out about 5pm to look at the funky covered market right near our hotel then out onto the marina walkway to take a photo of our hotel right next to the  mosque. Walk right around the boat harbour to past the private marina, then past the military base, which seems to have a lot of civilian visitors, but not us. A lot of guns about, so don't take photos of the port area beyond. At the top of the hill, walk down a classy side street for views, and find ourselves in a hotel area, with an access lane to the sea, and a "people's beach" sign. Have a drink, and a paddle, then walk the beach past the hotels to a water sport park, up the hill, taking photos on the way of compressed natural gas cylinder banks, delivered by truck.   Walk over the top of the hill to photo old Mykonos type windmills on the hill, look down onto the next suburb, Gumbet. See minibuses going out of town, none in. Have had offers going the wrong way, but DP has worked out it is a loop system. Confirm this, and for 2 YTL get a good look at Gumbet, a lot further downmarket than Bodrum, real lager lout country. After an extensive drive around just about every street in Gumbet, come back into Bodrum on a road back on the edge of town, then on a long, narrow major street which gets us to the fruit market, where we bail out. This should be near the Otogar, but can't find the right streets. After buying fruit and drink at the supermarket, walk out the other entrance, find the street we want, but walk far too far. Have to ask directions back to the Otogar, which we can't possibly have missed.    Check out Kamilkoc buses, for Sunday to Izmir, and beyond, but don't have enough cash on us. Walk the main road back, get some cash out of security, snack on peaches, cherries, coke and gin, bread and vegemite while DP composes a trial email to send on her palm, using the hotel's wi-fi.  Bodrum is a party town, and we want to see what goes on, but it doesn't get going till late. Out at about 10pm still early by nightclub standards. The streets are packed, can only shuffle along.  All the tourist girls, the would-be gigolos and the gays have their best gear on, while the guys are wearing standard day gear. Along the beach strip to the East the discos are ramping up the sound level. Not particularly hungry, so check out some restaurant prices, but not tempted. Can see the water spouts and lasers of the Halikarnas disco, which holds 5,000 customers and has a  40 YTL entry,  in the distance, so walk around to it, but the laser and waterspouts are finished by the time we get there, and from the waterfront we can see in, and there are practically no customers. Continue on to the end of the bay, where a large ferry or cruise boat is just leaving.   Pass a restaurant in an otherwise quiet strip which is jumping. Either the Greek music, or good food has drawn a crowd. Back at Halikarnas, watch the video screen of what it will be like at 2 AM, then back along the beach. There is some seriously loud music coming from way across the bay, and the steam yacht we saw this afternoon is lit up. Will have to take the camera tomorrow night.    DP settles on a 2 YTL chicken pita. So good, MP goes back for one, then DP for a third. The action is still building when we hit the sack at midnight. Better night's sleep, in spite of disco noise, all night shoppers below us, viciously loud mosque at 4 AM.  Saturday 19 July            Bodrum   MP up at 8 and up to Kamilkoc for bus tickets to Izmir, then breakfasts. Reflects on whether it was inevitable that Richard Lion Heart was beaten by Abdullah KamilKoc. Out to look at the St Peter Fort, check out the glass display early, as we think it is about to close. Try to follow the red, long tour arrows, and get good photos from the fort of the town and surrounding hills, as well as the sea coast and harbour.    Walk right around the walls. Just about expiring from the heat, so have a short explore, then back to the hotel for a rest before our assault on the town. Out at about 8.30pm. Streets not as full as later in the night. Walk from the waterfront through narrow streets over a small hill, to the the fish market area, looking for a restaurant we'd seen in the afternoon,  which had traditional Turkish fare. Find it, but looks like the same food in the trays, and no customers. Go back to another similar restaurant DP saw on the way, but in the half hour or so the preferred aubergine/tomato mix has been depleted, and watch the last serve disappear. Back to the fish market, where we find a traditional place, resist over-ordering, and settle for 3 local cold sampler dishes, plus toast, beer and wine. Watch some burnt-out blowsy blondes, and local fisherman types having a good time on Raki. Decide to try one ourselves, not too bad with a lot of water. Not as cheap as we expected, but reasonable, and we head home for a rest before we put into action our plan to see the late night disco action.   Sleep through our 3am wake-up target, but out in the streets by 4am. Still a LOT of people in the streets, but probably half the traders have shut up shop. The noisy discos are still pumping out the techno.  Marine Club Catamaran disco has actually gone to sea, can see it out in the bay. This floating nightclub (which can hold 1500 and has a transparent dance floor) sets sail at 1.30am for three and a half hours. Walk around to Halikarnas, where the lasers are operating, and go-go girls are dancing in fishnet body stockings, but it doesn't seem to have a big crowd.Sun 20th July           Bodrum -Ayvalik     Back home by 4.45am but still have to endure the muezzin at 5am, and up with the alarm at 8.30, breakfast while DP wi-fi's, up to the otogar by 9.30, away in the Kamilkoc bus by 10, sitting in the front seat, with a big windscreen in front of us, but don't get very far before the sun visor comes down, and DP has to move across and look through a hole in it.   At 25 YTL each, this is top dollar, and the bus is only half full, but we get full service, water, coke, coffee, and surprisingly good snacks. Cut across a peninsular and back to the coast where there are a few flash tourist developments on the water, and rashes of high-rise across the hills. Pass the Bodrum airport, a long way from Bodrum (60kms). Make the turn west at Milas, which has a good fort on a steep rock outcrop, then over the hills and down beside the big lake at  Bafa Golu. Land is pretty green and fertile in the valleys, still a lot of irrigation.    Izmir is a monster (2.6 million), with highrise spreading up the foothills, and lots of freeways and flyovers. Glad we hadn't decided to revisit the market. Do a few circuits of the Otogar before finding a company to take us on to Ayvalik, again fairly savage at 16YTL each, not quite as flash a bus, and down the back this time. Leave at 1.45pm through wide, but still back streets after the freeway runs out. Pass along the bay out from Izmir, past heavy industries, power stations, steel works and petrochemical industries. Around Aliaga, wind power station components stored beside the road. The water is shallower, and hills more gentle, but still doesn't limit the spread of resort developments. Pass the turnoff to Bergama (Pergamum, with Roman ruins) in the sunbaked hills. Glad we decided to give it a miss, as we have had our fill of wandering around ruins in the blazing sun.    Nearing Ayvalik, our confidence in our night stop decision is not high, as we are deep into package tour area, with long beaches, flat land, and shallow sea all the way to the next town, where there is a peninsular with an indented coastline. Cross a pine clad hill, and down into the bay with Ayvalik at the end. Gets better as we get closer, but still not too convinced as we get out of the bus and walk in the heat (5pm) towards the town. See some pansiyon and hotels as we get close to the centre, but DP wants to look at the recommended pansiyons in historic homes. Find the first, Yali, which has a garden right on the sea, and an interior out of the Addams Family - old, dark and musty, with common bathrooms.   Have a look at the modern hotel close by, which is full,  so go looking for the other pansiyons. DP is left sitting on a post, buggered,  while MP checks out Bonjour, also old and musty, and Taksiyarhis, which is old, but clean and funky, for 28 YTL each a night no breakfast, with a top floor loft room.      MP gets lost on the way back, has to go back to the main road and follow the Bonjour signs to find DP, who has found some Wi'fi, and is internetting. Settle in (one hour after arriving in town - what happens when you're choosy about your hotel) and then try to follow the map on the pansiyon wall to the local eating area where you can try a variety of the local "tost", toasted bread with filling, but, after criss-crossing the local eating area,  ended up down in the seafront tourist area, doing the rounds to find the elusive 8 to 10 YTL bream, annoying all the restaurant touts. End up in a fast food cafe with chips, salad, and Turkish pizza.    Back at the pansiyon, talk for some time on the woes of the world, 11 Dimensions, Positive energy, and  religion with a Salman Rushdie look-alike, born in "Mesopotamia", but carrying a Dutch passport.   Reasonable night in the loft for MP, not so DP. A/C on for most of it, early morning call to prayer, later call to throttle, with kids of pension guests up and yelling in the early morning.   Monday 21st July         Ayvalik - Canakkale   Early start, fruit breakfast, talk to middle aged couple from Melbourne on holiday/long service. Get updated advice from owner on where to get the bus to Edremit, and walk on the cobbled high level street which gradually drops to the main road. It is a long walk to the bus station, and can't get much sense out of the bus offices, but eventually are taken out into the yard and put on a bus just leaving.   We end up in the second last seats, not too good, but at least it is opposite the back door, which is open for a while, then closes. It is hot and sweaty, change positions to give DP some breeze. The bus fills fairly quickly, possibly Monday morning means markets. At a small town, end up with the aisle full, and a young girl sitting reluctantly on DP's lap. No photos taken, but pass along another shoreline with package holiday hotels. lots of olive trees, people harvesting in the fields. Stop in Burhaniye  a large town before Edremit, with a busy, interesting centre, then on to Edremit, where we were deposited in the Otogar. Have a lot of touts trying to help us, but MP wants to go to the loo, so by the time he gets back, have lost the initiative. MP checks out one bus line, DP another. MP's says it's going in 10 minutes, so give them a go. Can't find out which "person", look for the bus line, can't find, and it is now past 11am, the time the bus is due. MP back to the desk for action a couple of times, get our own minder to come with us, then the bus turns up, quarter of an hour late. No hassle, everyone but MP thinks.    In the bus, have 35 and 36, not good seats, with window post, so DP moves back. Have a tense time getting tickets checked, but get away with it. Another luxury bus, 17 YTL each, coke on tap.    The Bay of Edremit starts to look better, with the road running along the water, and lots of package holiday hotels, with older, more traditional houses up the hillsides at Kucukkuyu, where we cut inland up a steep switchback climb, with views over the bay and across to Lesvos. Stuck in traffic behind bridge components, through steep hill with pine trees. Down toward Troy (Truva), the country gets flatter, with fertile fields in the valleys, but can't see much reason to stop, or come back, now we know where Troy is. Can see Cape Helles, and the entrance to the Dardanelles.    Keep track of our route on the way intoCanakkale, about to get off reasonably close to our hotel choice, but told to stay on, and end up at the ferry wharf. Walk the water front, then cut in looking for Hotel Kervansaray, which we find quickly. We are offered a room for 50 euros, about 95 YTL, a bit expensive, but this is supposed to be a boutique hotel, so give it a run. Staff are helpful with information, offer a 50 YTL each tour to the Anzac sites, but we put it off till later. Out in the afternoon, and down to a large waterfront cafe full of locals. Settle for sardines, "tost",a local press toasted specialty, and a surprisingly cheap hamburger. Sardines were cheap, and very good, whole meal well priced.    Walk the old town, interesting enough, but not all that visibly old. Full of "Avocat" signs, must be the legal centre of Europe. Check out the Gallipoli battlefield tour offered for 55 YTL each at the Yellow Rose hotel. Back at our hotel, beaten by the heat, have another sleep/rest then out about 7 when the sting has gone out of the sun. Head to the Yellow Rose to book the tour, then north along the waterfront for photos of the Trojan Horse from the Troy film, a remarkable piece of sculpture, quite feasible for it to be made 2800 years ago out of used ships. Also photograph the model, and read the history of the various reincarnations of Troy. Back for more sardines at our waterfront cafe, together with a cooling local lemon drink, hopefully made with clean water. Pick up an ice-cream, and given a free sample of the taffy-like local product, which the vendors stir with a crowbar. We've seen them stretching it out with great showmanship. Google it to find out what it's made of - find out it's called salepi dondurma, and made of goat's milk, flour made from ground tubers of wild orchids, and mastic (resin). Takes quite similar to our ice-cream, but a bit stretchy. MP to sleep early, DP wifi's till midnight. Good sleep, but still woken at 4 by the mosque.  
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