TravelStream™ news feed for member darcyrayner on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/darcyrayner en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:14:12 -0500 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1231780260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1231780260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1231780260/tpod.html Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:14:12 -0500 Argentina Sept 2008

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Cafayate, Northern Argentina, Argentina

soon
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Salta, Northern Argentina, Argentina

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Cordoba, Central Argentina, Argentina

To come
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1227712860/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1227712860/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1227712860/tpod.html Mon, 12 Jan 2009 11:16:34 -0500 Argentina Sept 2008

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Iguazu Falls, Argentina

Next stop Iguazu Falls....After a 20 hour bus ride from Buenos Aires I arrived in Puetro Iguazu, a small town nestled in the jungles of Northern Argentina and located within short distance to the borders of Brazil and Paraguay. After stepping of the bus it was obvious that thew humidity was alot stronger here then BA, for I was working up a sweat just waiting for my bag to be retrieved from under the bus. I orientated myself to the poor map that I had and headed of to find a hostel. The one I was after was a short walk from the bus station but when your heading in the wrong direction it doesn't take long to realize your going to sweat more than you wanted too.. at least the hostel has a swimming pool i thought... After reviewing my map and a passerby giving me the right directions I soon found the hostel i was after. The reception was out front and I waited for some 20 minutes with staff walking by and not acknowledging me so bugger them I thought and I got the LP out and started heading the next closet hostel with a swimming pool. At last I had my place to stay.. Not only a swimming pool but an air conditioned room as well.. So it was straight into the pool before a nice nap in the afternoon....
The next day it was time to visit the main attraction of Puetro Iguazu... that being the famous Iguaza Falls located about 30 minutes by bus from the heart of town. The set up is pretty impressive for park... there a huge main entrance where they take the gringo dollars off you in huge amounts... compared to locals that is... and a great little miniature train to take right to the heart of the falls. Firstly i went to the devils throat where the steel walkway takes you right out onto the edge of the falls... the water crashes into the river below with such force that it practically flys straight back up at with a fine spray of fresh water.... Now i told that there enough water flowing over the Iguazu falls in 10 minutes to supply of of Australia´s water needs for a compete year... Now thats if David Attenbrough has his facts right.... Another amazing thing in this part of the devils throat is that birds fly in and out of the water flowing over the falls chasing and catching tiny insects that are overwhelmed by the mist of water spraying out. They seem to have little cracks between the water flow which is their entrance to their nets... Pretty noisy spot to live as the sound is quite deafening from the falls...
From here I made my way by foot along the jungle paths to other areas of the falls. Along the way you come across an array of birds, inspects and critters... The waterfalls are in the running for the new 7 wonders of the world and i guess my vote would have to go to them as they are spectacular....
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1224110640/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1224110640/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1224110640/tpod.html Wed, 05 Nov 2008 10:40:33 -0500 Argentina Sept 2008

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Ushuaia, Patagonia, Argentina

Its the end of the world as we know it, well so the Argentines think anyway. Ushuaia is at the very bottom of Argentina and is the southernmost city of the world. There is a few small towns south in Chile but the place holds the claim to fame. Arriving at 10pm after 12 hours of bus and ferry rides, numerous border crossing with Chile and Argentina, I meet an Indian backpacker whilst getting my pack from the bottom of the bus. We made our way to the Freestyle hostel, which of course had to be a climb up through numerous streets but we were pleasantly surprised by the hostel upon arriving, very clean and modern. We dumped our gear and made our way to a pizza shop and shared a ham and pineapple pizza. Tired from a long journey we went back to the hostel and got some needed sleep. The next morning we meet up with Kim and Karen and organized a boat trip thought the Beagle channel for the afternoon and rented a car for the next day. That afternoon we jumped on board our sailing boat and sailed out to H island. Due to the company we picked for the sail boat we where pleased that we were the only ones that were allowed to land on the island due to conservation of the natural breeding sites of numerous sea birds and mammals. The trek around the island was quite special as the animals weren't too afraid of humans due to lack of contact in the past.

The next day we hired a car to drive along the coast of the Beagle Channel. It was only a small car but it gave allot more comfort and flexibility then a bus would have. The drive out of the township had everyone checking every direction as drivers in this part of the world tend to play by their own rules, and with a hefty insurance premium we didn't want to take the car back with anything more than dirt on it. After successfully getting out of the town we headed down the dirt road, which to our surprise was actually in better condition than the paved main road. It took us through old growth forested areas, past small wooden huts which we couldn't decide why they where there but we certainly made up some pretty funny explanations. Along the drive we stopped at a small little village that was a working station, it was very a pretty village nestled on a bay of the Beagle Channel. We stopped and had coffee and cake before heading further along the channel. When the road meet the channel again I noticed a fox searching for food along the water. Once again I was able to get allot closer than back home which allowed me to get some nice pictures.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1223077200/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1223077200/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1223077200/tpod.html Tue, 04 Nov 2008 14:21:41 -0500 Argentina Sept 2008

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Puerto Madryn, Patagonia, Argentina

My time in Buenos Aires had come to an end, but not without its problems. The night before I was due to leave BA the ATM withheld my card as I had incorrectly entered my pin number several times. Before leaving Adelaide I recieved a new card as my old card was due to expire, unforntunately I forget this and entered my old pin number instead. Now that sinking feeling you get when the card doesnt come out the machine hit me, all I had was a printout in spanish and no card. I rang the phone number on the print out and and was informed to return to the bank and I might get my card back. This was tricky since I was due to leave on the bus the next day. I tried to change my bus times but that was not possible and cancelling would of meant no refund at all due to the short notice of cancellation. So the next day I made my way back to the bank and thankfully all went smoothly and I recieved my card back after signing numerous forms and speaking to just about everyone in the bank. Along came 1pm and it was time for the bus station. Reading my ticket I understood that my bus left at 1.05pm, but giving me platform 1 rank 1-15 made it quite confusing. Best I could do was walk along to every bus, and in my best Spanish was to ask if this was the correct ´autobus´, eventually I got that smiling face with ´Ci Sinor, autobus com est Puerto Madryn´ or something like that. Well 21 hours later, little sleep and an ipod starting to run flat I arrived in Puerto Madyn in Patagonia.

Puerto Madyn is 1200km south of Buenos Aires and is the gateway to some of the most amazing wildlife in Argentina. Once I got my pack from the under carriage of the bus I made my way by foot to Chepatagonia Hostel, around about 4 km away. It was a pleasant walk at 6 in the morning, and due to the layout out of town very easy to find. The best way for me was to head straight to the coast, then turn right and about 5 blocks down I would find the hostel. I found the coast all right, but making the right turn was diffecult, in front of me was about 100 whales, blowing water and air skyward, splashing thier fins and tails agianst the water and making those funny deep whale noises... I was expecting to see whales but this many...
I made my way to the hostel and checked in, showered and made my way back to the beach. There was a large jetty approxiamtely 1 km down the beach. I made the sroll.. well the speed I was travelling at I could of been in the olympic walking team, from here the whales where making their way around the bay, often coming within 20 to 30 meters of the jetty. This was where I stayed for some part of the day, as the draw of these massive beasts is compelling and makes it hard to leave. The whales themselves where southern wright whales and where up in these warmer waters from antartica with their new born calves.

The next day I made my way down to Puerto Tombo, where Argentinas most important Magellanic Peguin coloneys is. Arriving I payed the discrimatory foreiner entrance fee to the park which is double the price the locals pay and made my way down the trail. Only 30 meters past the rangers office the penguins have set up camp. All along the trail the penguins go about their day all oblivious the passing humans. The only time they really took any notice of me was when I went to take their photo, thats when they turned thier heads upside down. I dont know if it was their reaction to seeing themselves in the reflection of the lense glass or just looking at me with curiosty... there where penguins digging, sleeping, making love and making their way to the water for a swim. The colony itself was massive. As far as i could see into the distant hillsides, there where couples set up at thier burrows. I guess there would have to of been over half a million of them. Unlike the fairy penguins back home these guys where pretty big. Many reaching to the height of my knees, and with a set of beaks that i wasnt too keen to to get to close to. Penguins were not the only inhabitants of this area as Lhamas, armadillos a armored insect eater, Giant Petrels, Steamer ducks and oystercatchers.

After half a day watching the daily life of penguins unfold I made my way to Gaiman, which is a little Welsh colony set up int he middle of Patagonia. Fleeing the British in the late 1800´s they set up townships in this area and as I was soon convinced turned the barron land into green fertile oasis of farming land. Using the avaiable water coming across the plains they have set up such well designed and constructed irragation systems that the valley is flushing green compared to the contrast that sorrounds it. Enjoying a welsh ctyle cup of tea and cake it was time to make my way back to Puerto Madryn and start packing for a journey that would take me further south again.

I will upload photos once back in an area where internets speeds better.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1224110520/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1224110520/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1224110520/tpod.html Tue, 04 Nov 2008 12:56:42 -0500 Argentina Sept 2008

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El Chalten, Patagonia, Argentina

5 hours to the north of El Calafate is the trekking town of El Chalten. Perched at the foot of Andie's and in the shadow of Cerro Fitz Roy or Fitz Roy Mountain, this small community houses the start of some of the worlds best trekking. Arriving late at night I meet up with Kim and Karen and went to the opening of a brand new pub in town and drank the night away in front of a open wood fire. Waking the next morning with a solid hang over I wasn't feeling the best for climbing up into the mountains but after some juice and making lunch we set off on our first trek. We where doing a 25km round circuit that would take us up to the Plato of 3 lake area, where good views of Fitz Roy could be had if the weather was onside. Our first bit of luck was at a fork junction where we made the decision to take the track to the left in order to pass a lake instead of the view we had enjoying on the way up. About 1 km into this part of the trek I noticed a black bird fly past me and land on the ground to my right. Grabbing the camera out and disappointed I didn't bring my big Len's due to weight I slowly crept towards this bird banging away at a rotten stump on the ground. It wasn't long that I realized that this bird which later I found out was a Woodpecker, didn't give too hoots about me be so close. Then it wasn't just the black woodpecker, which is the female, but the male was also near me. The male woodpecker has the same black body but its head is bright red in color. This pair of woodpeckers just let me snap away which made me feel better for drinking the night before and leaving my big lens back at the hostel.
The trek took us further towards Mt Fitz Roy, but as we got closer we knew that the view of Fitz Roy was not going to happen today, clouds where flowing past over the Mt so the granite columns where unable to be seen. We continued on as the distance to travel was great and the weather was turning. We trekked through some beautiful valleys and forests, past some pristine lakes filled with water that could be drunk straight from the lake, we encounter footprints and feces of Puma`s but even with my eyes on a constant look out failed to see one on this trek. After 8 hours of trekking we returned to the hostel for nice warm shower a few cold beers and hopes that the following days trekking would allow us to see Mt Fitz Roy.

The nest day we rose and prepared for a harder trek than the previous day. This time we were doing the Cero Solo trek which would take us up over 1000m for the day and hopefully give us good views of the 3 large mountain peaks of the area, including Fitz Roy, Glacier Grande and the lake systems. After packing our gear for the trek we headed off. The route would be 4 hours out and return along the same route but only in three hours as it would then be all down hill. After climbing up for about an hour we realized the trekking from the day before was catching up to us on this one, but we pushed on. The views of the area where becoming more impressive with each rest break. We crossing marshy swamps, through dead forests and over flowing rivers. About 3 hours into the climb we started to climb into the snow line, which meant things we getting colder and wetter. We could after 4 hours see the peak we where trying to reach and it looked like we just had to plow through the snow for another kilometer or two to get to it. But with false crest after false crest we made it to a point where we decided it was too early in the trekking season to try and pound our way up the step snow covered ledges, so we made our way across to a viewing point to have our lunch before descending. The View from here was amazing still. We could see the lake systems, the glacier grande, but still to our disappointment no Fitz Roy, due to cloud cover. The trek back was a lot easier as the down hill and gravity assist always feels better. Just over three hours to return and the cold beers awaiting.

The next day was the towns 23rd Birthday, and celebrations where planned. The town put on a large BBQ, with at least 26 Lambs being BBQ´d Argentinian style ( see Pics ). Other entertainment included a rodeo, where the guacho´s showed their skills in riding untame horses.

I returned to El Chalten after visiting Ushuala, the southern most city in the world, to continue treking and trying to get a Puma photo. During my treking on return the gods where good to me and I had numerous clear days allowing good viewing of Mt Fitzroy and others.

During my stay here the staff at Albergue Patagonia where the best I've meet on all my travels, always up for a drink and chat, always so helpful. Thanks alot to them, espically Mechi.......
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1223569080/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1223569080/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1223569080/tpod.html Fri, 17 Oct 2008 10:58:30 -0400 Argentina Sept 2008

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El Calafate, Patagonia, Argentina

After another 20 hour bus trip to Ria Gallegos, then 5 hours on the road I arrived at El Calafate, Southern Patagonia. I bunked up at Hostel del glacier libertador, which is a very clean and comfortable hostel. Its more like a swiss resort set'up then the general backpackers. Here I meet a British couple Kim and Karen whom have been travelling for some time throughout the world. The night of arrival we had several beers in the common room and booked a tour of the areas most famous tourist attraction Glacier Perito Los Glacaires.
Any early rise after a late night we where on the bus heading out into the national park. Although not the biggest glacier in Argentina Im tellling you this thing is impressive. Standing at over 60 meters high from the lake below, and stretching over 3 km across and back into the valley for over 40kms its massive. Taking in views from different vantage points every which way you look at this glacier you are struck by its size. Getting up close at the viewing platforms the sound of ice breaking away is like listening to bombs exploding. Each and every crack had the crowds of tourist waiting in ore to see where the next chunk of ice the size of a house was going to crash into the lake below.
To get a better appreacation of the size of the glacier we went on a boat trip which takes you up to 300m of the galcaier face. Looking up all we could see the solid ice rising above us, even at a safe distance of 300m due to the risk of a collapse and wave action it was impressive. But our adventure didnt end with the boat trip. Returning to the dock the strong winds had blown the icebergs into the jetty thus making landing impossible. The boat first tried to ram the ice bergs out of the way, the sound of metal on ice is quite frightning, thoughts of the movie titanic came flooding back and that boat had steel reinforcing for such incounters, ours was just a large catamaran for viewing. Having no luck pushing it out of the way, the crew then throw ropes around the summits of the bergs and on the third attempt they where able to dragg the ice berg back out on the lake and before the wind had a chance to blow it back in the boat was docked and we where safely back on dry ground.

I will upload photos when back to fast internet speeds.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1222415880/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1222415880/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/6/1222415880/tpod.html Sat, 27 Sep 2008 16:37:56 -0400 Argentina Sept 2008

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Buenos Aires, Capital Federal District, Argentina

Buenos Aries
I arrived in Buenos Aires after an ordeal of connecting flights all in the aim of getting to Argentina. Flying out of Adelaide to Kuala Lumpa, then onto Johanassberg and Cape Town in South Africa finally arriving in Buenos Aires 38 hours later with no fresh air for all that time as your restricted to the transfer lounges of each airport and the recycled air of the aircrafts. Catching a bus from the international airport I got my first look at the city and its size, now this place is big. The bus pulled up into a inner city bus station where I threw on the pack for the first time and started to make my way in the direction that seemed corrected from the orientation of my map. After passing over a couple of major streets I knew I was heading in the right direction and could start to enjoy the new scenery more as I was now more comfortable with my surroundings. Walking along the streets of Buenos Aires as a tourist you tend to feel more like just another person walking along the street going about your own business, unlike citys of Asia you dont stand out due to skin color and height, Buenos Aires is quite multi-cultural in a sense. I was amazed at the architecture of the historical buildings I was passing and the sheer hieght of the citys sky scrapers, the statues and the fountains that give the city a welcoming feeling. Back at street level it doesnt take long to workout that economic failures of the past have had an effect on the overall cleanilness and maintaince of the city. The footpaths crumbling under foot, potholes making you walk like a crab instead of a straight line, a lack of rubbish bins meaning watse is pilling up ready for the city collectors after the recycling crews have scavenge throught it. After 5 kms the street I was looking for appeared on a street sign above me and with sheer luck I looked up and there was the hostel enterance right next to me. Im sure if I hadnt of looked to my right I would of walked straight past the single door that leads up to the hostel and my search would of continued on for a lot longer.
I signed in and had a quick shower and finally got to clean my teeth as the airline companies dont seem to hand out toothbrushes on flights anymore which left my teeth feeling and looking green and fuzzy. With the personel hygiene chores completed it was time a for a beer and to unwind from the intitial travel stresses. Sitting down in the hostels common room I chatted to a bloke who was also enjoying the local ale.. and yes the first person I meet in Argentina is an Aussie... Sean had been travelling through South America for 5 months or so and was coming close to the end of his trip.. but I made the most of getting the low down of travel thorugh South America. The beers continued on into the night and I was ready to hit the sack, only to find out that Buenos Aires was only just starting to come alive, and this was 12 oclock at night. The locals have their dinner around 10.30- 11 at night which means the entertainment doesnt start kicking of till 2-3 in the morning. Being rundown by jet lag I couldnt face a late night so bunking down was the option I took.
The next morning I rose early and scoffed into the free breakfast which consists of dulce medialuna ( a sweet type of croissant ), cafe con leche ( coffee with milk ) and cornflakes with apples and banana´s. Now with a full belly it was time to start exploring the city. I made my way by foot to serveral tourist attractions that where close to the hostel. First stop was Plaza del Congresso which is a green grassed filled park to which large colonial style buidings create a courtyard environment where locals come to walk their dogs, feed the pigions or just sit and people watch. Next I walked another 2 kms back to Plaza de Mayo, where mothers and friends of the missing citizens from Argentina´s polictal games walk in circles to pressure the government to give answers to their wearabouts.

In the afternoon I made the trek down to an area of Buenos Aires called La Baco which is a small area that consists of brightly colored buildings where artist sell their wears, and tango dancers swirl to the beats of muscians playing guitars drums and pianos. The walk to this area takes one through the working classes of Buenos Aires with the locals looking alot more shady then their centro counterparts. Stopping to fill the belly again I enjoyed a porchilla thrown between two large sections of bread. A porcilla is Argentina´s version of a blood sausage. After spending some time in La Boca I made my way to another part of town called San Telmo. This area consists of cobbled streets with amazing old french styled mansions. Known as one of the birth places of the Tango the picturest San Telmo gives an insight of the old Buenos Aires when trams rulled the roadways. The area is now an antique hunters paradise with shop after shop selling items from the past.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/asia_2004-2005/1073274360/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/asia_2004-2005/1073274360/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcyrayner/asia_2004-2005/1073274360/tpod.html Tue, 27 May 2008 06:50:04 -0400 Thailand to Tibet, through jungles across high altitude deserts, eating snakes, yaks, spiders and more. This is the travel blog of my 2004 - 2005 trip across asia. Still under construction...

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Xi'an, China

To be updated
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