TravelStream™ news feed for member coolyback on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/coolyback en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Tue, 12 May 2009 06:02:23 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1213548480/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1213548480/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1213548480/tpod.html Tue, 12 May 2009 06:02:23 -0400 A taste of the world in 100 days.

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Cinque Terre, Italian Riviera, Italy

Arriving in Vernazza made up for all the drama in getting there!  Leaving Paris, we found a wrong date on the booking and had to pay nearly $500 AGAIN! Still trying to get that reimbursed! Vernazza is like a dream - one narrow cobbled main street sloping down to a blue bay filled with colourful fishing boats.  Cheerful people everywhere, musical language in the air, washing flapping from every window, nonna's chatting, everyone strolling and talking.  what was to be a 3 day stay grew to 5 days inadvertently when the next host's accommodation fell thru in Florence.Our room, skilfully booked on-line!  overlooked the waves crashing below.  One wall of the room was a rock face, you entered by descending a wooden ladder, brass port-holes overlooked the sea and green shutters opened onto the plethora of coloured wooden fishing boats.  Just past them was was the church steeple that chimed every half hour preceded by the other church bells that were 10 minutes fast.  So four sets of bells EVERY hour. Thanks Lorenza and  Giovanni - great accommodation, even if up 66 winding stone stairs.Thanks Jane and Stan for the company. And to Guiseppe for the fabulous Gelato (get some from his son - Valentino at Salt -Kingscliff!) And to Annis, our great Morrocan waiter at Gianni Franzi.We walked the cliffs between the 5 villages with spectacular views along the way, drank lots of good coffee, ate gelato and tasty cherries and apricots, and of course local pesto and wine, swam in the sea  and generally whiled away the hours.And so I had my birthday in Cinque Terra - what could be better.BUpdate - MyAir have now contacted us 10 months after our initial email enquiry. (thats Italian efficiency for u). After several emails back and forward and a complete waste of my time, and an initial offer to refund the airport taxes, they refuse to make any refund at all. Seems totally unreasonable, some folks were travelling that day for 19.99euro, it cost us 291euro each for a 1 hour flight. To anyone travelling in Italy and all those people who have emailed us about our amazing accommmodation in Vernazza - DON"T CONSIDER MYAIR AT ANY COST. The trains are a better option. Hell, we were even OFFERED a refund by Trenitalia when the airconditioning didnt work on one of our train trips (and a cheque arrived in Australia months later). A far cry from the way Myair treats its foreign passengers.M
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1213462020/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1213462020/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1213462020/tpod.html Tue, 12 May 2009 05:54:38 -0400 A taste of the world in 100 days.

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Paris, Île-de-France, France

Arrived in Paris to yet another language and an International airport with NO English signage. But that only slowed us down a little. Off we went by bus to the railway to find a train to Dijon in the heart of the Bugundy region. The TGV fast train should have been impressive but the aircon was busted on the hottest day of the year and we had to slow down for a hail storm just when I was getting used to travelling at 280km/h. Met up with Brenda's cousin Jane and husband Norm who were travelling Burgundy to celebrate Janes 50th. As winemakers they took the opportunity to compare their South Aussie vintages with the best of the French wines.Spent a great day cycling a canal to a couple of small villages outside Dijon, great to escape the cities for half a day and have lunch and coffee by the locks.MDijon was a gorgeous old town/city with lots of cobbled lanes and huge piazzas to explore, only problem - not enough time, as usual.Trained to Fontainebleu via Paris (again).  Explored the vast Fontainebleu Chateau with lots of Napoleonic history plus Marie Antoinette and Louis XIV furniture, decor etc - very impressive!Our host Philippe collected us and after a welcome drink, drove to Sens for a typical French dinner of Fondue.  Merci, Philippe! Home to the tiny village of Vallery to our whitewashed cottage for 2 nights with mezzanine bedroom with ladder entry.Our hosts Philippe and Antonie were fabulous and looked after us with much generosity.  We felt very much at home.  Our commiserations to Philippe over the sad loss of the French soccer game that night!Major drama at this point - got to the remote village to find M's backpack with EVERY photo from our trip on CD was MISSING!!!  Plus lots of other good stuff.After a stressful night (for Michael mostly), I was very restrained and didn't kill him immediately, we returned to the tourist office, where someone had handed it in, intact!  So we dashed to the fabulous Fontainebleu food and flower markets and bought a huge bunch of roses for the girls who locked it up for us overnight!On to Paris and once again Michael mastered the Metro (he is good with a map!) and followed the precise instructions of our next host - Christian and found our next home in Passage Delessert in the ethnic quarter of central Paris.  Our home here was an apartment on 2 levels connected by a tiny spiral staircase.  Here we spent 3 nights with our generous host and by day explored every corner of Paris including the most obvious - Eiffel Tower, Jardins Tuilerie, Musee d'Orsay, Arc d'Triomph, Notre Dame, Sacre Coeur, Montmartre etc etcNext drama - got to Charles de Gaulle Airport only to find our flight had been booked for a week hence.  After much screaming and crying, we managed to get on the flight for another $500!  So the short trip cost nearly $1000!!!!!!!!!  M is currently battling that one with MyAir, via email and phone, challenging the terms and conditions. BUpdate - MyAir have now contacted us 10 months after our initial email enquiry. (thats Italian efficiency for u). After several emails back and forward and a complete waste of my time, and an initial offer to refund the airport taxes, they refuse to make any refund at all. Seems totally unreasonable, some folks were travelling that day for 19.99euro, it cost us 291euro each for a 1 hour flight. To anyone travelling in Italy and all those people who have emailed us about our amazing accommmodation in Vernazza - DON"T CONSIDER MYAIR AT ANY COST. The trains are a better option. Hell, we were even OFFERED a refund by Trenitalia when the airconditioning didnt work on one of our train trips (and a cheque arrived in Australia months later). A far cry from the way Myair treats its foreign passengers.M
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1210294740/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1210294740/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/coolyback/1/1210294740/tpod.html Sun, 05 Oct 2008 21:21:26 -0400 A taste of the world in 100 days.

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Rio de Janeiro, State of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

4 days in Rio!We were a bit wary on arriving in Rio - lots of Lonely Planet warnings, violence, favelas, don´t get in a taxi, don´t  ride buses at night, don´t wear ANY jewellery, don´t walk on the beach side of the road, don´t carry cameras, credit cards, money - what can u do!!And the state of the hotel where we imagined settling in to luxury for 4 days didn´t help!  I won´t go into details.By day 2 we started settling in.  Made a friend - Oliveira - so now we´ve drunk Capinheiras, visited bars, wandered Lapa, Santa Teresa, ridden the cablecar to SugarLoaf (Pao de Azucar), hung onto the Bonde (tram) up the hill, froze our butts off at Christo Redentor, eaten in `by the kilo`restaurantes, drunk Cafezinho (little throw-down coffees after our meal, visited the pyramid shaped modern Cathedral and listened to good Samba, snorkelled on a Schooner around the islands at Agra - beautiful!!!!!!!!!So now its our last night, and off to Madrid tomorrow!B
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Dubrovnik, Croatia

After a wonderful time in Como it was time to begin our Croatian odyssey. Little did we know at this stage, but the cupboard like cabin on the overnight ferry was to set the scene for more dodgy rooms in Croatia.We arrived in Split early to to sunny skys over a beautiful marble, limestone and terracotta Adriatic city - but a day that was to reach 35 degrees plus. No problem finding a room in Croatia, they come to you in the form of townsfolk crowding around ferry and bus terminals asking (hassling) you about their rooms. But like lots of things in this tourist ill country, what they offer in their conveniently broken english, is not always what you get. More on that later.Split as I mentioned is a beautiful town, like most of the Mediterranian walled towns, the streets are car free pedestrian malls with ancient buildings in narrow lanes, food markets, cafes and  full of history that most Aussies find difficult to comprehend. Split deserves more time but the heat was oppressive so after one night we headed for the Island of Hvar.Now this place like many of the islands in the Dalmation coast is a real jewel. The water is clearer that any well kept swimming pool and a colour that is absolutely stunning. The town centres on a harbour that houses the yachts of the rich and famous, harbourside resturants and stunning pebble beaches with DJ's playing music for the young and tanned, all in the shadow of an ancient fortress. We stayed for 3 nights, spent the days strolling and swimming - taking it easy.Our ferry ride to Dubrovnik took us past Korcula and several other islands worth a look in the future. As we approached Dubrovnik it was clear this town is geared up for the tourists. Ocean liners, tour buses crowds and the heat again. We headed for town with a soon to be removed smug look knowing we had our accommodation booked and WE dont need to negotate with suspect room sellers at the docks. So enters Edi  to our journey, Mr sleazy, Mr loud, Mr bully landlord. Our booked seaview room with private bath was in fact a cupbord like alley view room with a double bed in one corner that stopped the bathroom door from opening properly, no room for our bags. And it was extremely hot. We  had Edi in our faces on every turn  so decided that the only time we would spend here was sleeping (or trying to).Spent our time doing a walk if the city walls (great), exploring the old town, swimming in nearby Lapad and a cruise to the Elefiti Islands. As I mentioned earlier, this town has tourism illness. The cruise that advertised homemade apertifs served a apple cut in half, the shops had cheap but expensive t-shirts, bland tourist food and nasty souvenirs and Edi's rooms were not what was advertised. But Edi had another suprise for us. He wanted more money than the price we booked online. So Brenda and I spent a nervous last night after a heated argument with a large, loud and now agressive Edi. No we didn't pay any extra, but it leaves you thinking twice about recommending Dubrovnik to anyone.M
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Dublin, County Dublin, Ireland

And now from our ghost writer Karen.......... "Well, the aussies came and went! So amazing to have them both in OUR house for a change! Didn't disgrace themselves too much. Managed to hold their cups properly (little finger away) and I only had to translate what Andy was saying to Brenda when we were driving, she could grasp it face to face. Seemed to enjoy lasagne even though there wasn't a hint of kangaroo in it. Actually very well mannered considering we made them sit in a cold bowling alley when it was warm outside to watch the Heinekin Rugby Final ...worth it cos Munster won!! Not sure about the photo of the Spinnaker Tower, its def. coming out of your heads guys, sorry. Next day it was "Famous Four Do Dorset" with the lovely Lulworth Cove ( quite a difficult word for our Brenda...) with stunning views and many photos. Then a wee picnic in the grounds of Lulworth (!) Castle, and an ice cream to the sound of gunfire! Southerners know how to lay on a welcome! On Monday, Michael feeling a little crook as you say, we set off for Dublin (its all that self wicking he does) The Townhouse was a good stay especially in rooms with weird names "The Shadowings" (further reference to Michaels underwear....) and a cracking breakfast. The first night was emotional with a sponteous marriage proposal in the bar , tears and photos all round. All the best Ben and Lydia wherever you may be! Next day it rained for hours.....found Bewleys Coffee House, Brenda recommended, very nice. The National Gallery was brill too, once we had found it! Meanwhile the lads were sniffing hops at the Guinness Factory........nuff said. Then it was drama time! While perusing the menu, my purse was stealthily removed from my bag! Never fear, my action heros sprang to the rescue.....PC Connelly and PC Riley sprinted after the perpetrator, pinned him against the wall of the Bank of Ireland and got my purse back!!! After a bit of thinking (he had been texting some friends(?) furiously when taken by surprise, the blokes from The Bill decided to let "this one go". To get over this event we all felt it necessary to have much too much to drink (mmm Guiness!) and stayed out dancing till 2 am! A great and eventful two days, glad it wasn't a week! xxx Karen & AndyThanks Karen and Andy, it was great catching up with you. Forgot to mention that you took us to Hambleton to the "home of cricket". Yes we even got to have a bat and bowl on this famous field where the first ever game of cricket was played. Mind you the spectators of the real game that was being played on the ground thought we were a bit odd!M
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London, England, United Kingdom

Jayne Azzopardi.......tour guide extrordinaire!!!Jayne met us outside "The Salmon & Ball" - her local pub (which she has never been to)  at the end of an instructed trip to Bethnal Green on the tube. (Great instructions Jayne. . ) After much snickering at the English station names and recorded voices of "Mind the Gap!" we arrived and settled in to her very spacious and well-appointed house.So off on the walking tour of all the usuals - Buckingham Palace, St Pauls Cathedral,, Trafalgar Square, The Green Park and a meal at Chinatown.Our English/Peruvian?Indian friends (work that out!) Maddy & Ahayla met us in the city to catch up on old times (from a few weeks ago!)Next off to the West End to see "Buddy" which was fun.Tour day 2 -  The London Eye, Tower Bridge, Southbank & the Thames.  Picnic lunch in St James Park, watching the squirrels darting around.  Next to Harrods to look, don't touch or BUY!A beer in a cute pub (they ALL are!)  And lots of red bus trips using the Oyster Card.Home then out again to Brick Lane for a tasty Indian meal - yum!  The touts trying to drag us in to all the restaurants were half the entertainment.  Jayne bargained though, for free pappadums and we were theirs!Thanks Jayne, we'll see you again soon for another  night  . .sorry bout that!  And thanks so much again.B
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Lisbon, Estremadura, Portugal

We arrived at Lisbon airport to be met by our Hospitality Club host for three nights, Paulo. What a change in the way we've been getting around so far, an airport pickup in our hosts mercedes and a transfer to yet another penthouse apartment (this time with a lift, our own bedroom and bathroom) and then a drop-off at the tram while Paulo went back to work. Old wooden creaky trams and elevators move people around this hilly city, jam packed and sooo close to the walls of buildings as they wind through this historic city. Spent the afternoon wandering the streets before we settled into a balcony terrace bar - outdoors on lounges overlooking the town. Paulo picked us up and took us to experience the culinary delights of Lisbon. Delicious seafood and smoked cod that he insisted we must eat.Bought a Lisboa Card (great value) which gives unlimited travel and entry to most museums for 24 hours so Wednesday we spent the morning wandering, tramming and Metro-ing around the city before heading out to the coastal village of Cascais by train. Reminded me a lot of Cronulla. Another beer on a terrace overlooking the beaches before heading back to Lisbon. Mindful of getting the most out of the travel card, we headed on the train again, this time to Sintra a historic village with beautiful gardens and palaces. That evening Paulo took us to a Fado bar & restaurant for a truly unique food and musical experience. Situated deep in the steep laneways of Alfama, an old part of the city was this tiny restaurant. Paulo knew the staff so we got special treatment and uniquely Portugese food which included cod again. But then the Fado started. Portugese guitar, and two outher guitars accompanied a procession of  singers who were waiting our tables between sets. Difficult to describe this Lisbon only folk music where they sing passionate songs of explorers and fishermen, their loves and the ones they left behind. Well thats what Paulo told us. But it meant a lot to the locals and the performers in this intimate atmosphere. A great way to finish our time in Portugal, a difficult city at times - language and finding your way around but a great experience again. A city where the police cruise the streets in tiny Smart cars and patrol the squares on spaceage Segways, but where drugs are on offer right under their noses. Thanks Paulo, an excellent host who is passionate about everything Portugese.M 
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Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain

3 days in Barcelona!Steph & Antonio were our great hosts at the top of 113 stairs in the penthouse!! Steph is a tour guide so was able to advise us with anything we needed.  We even did a mountain walk on the last day with a group of her German, Spanish & English friends which gave incredible vistas over the whole city.  Thanks Steph & Antonio - we were really sad to leave.And Juan Manuel was our guide extrordinaire taking us to a REAL flamenco club with guitar, song & dance and traditional eating cafes, tortilla espagnola - yum!!!   We enjoyed a great variety of anchovies, mussels, scallops, olives & fried eggplant for lunch with him.  Michael did a sight-seeing bike-ride on the great "Bicing" pushbikes which for a small yearly fee, you can collect and drop-off at heaps of points around the city.   Thanks Juan Manuel - looking forward to the emails!I strolled with Steph to the incredible Boqueria food market (incredible food photo`s!) and several other points of interest.  Any animal body parts can be freely bought - rabbits still have their heads on to prove that thats what they are.Again we were right in the centre of the old part of the city - a great place to be! Eg at 1am, on a whim we all wandered downstairs to our local bar - The Confiteria,  where very generous measures were served!  (2 mins away, kinda longer on the way home and up the 113 stairs)) for a tinto before bed.Michelle, Barcelona is still just as beautiful!  La Rambla is choc-a-bloc with human statues of every type!Catalan life and language was a little different to being in the south of Spain.  But everywhere the Granjas like the Pastelarias sell amazing sweet treats!BHow do you add a bit of culture to Michael´s daily diet. Books -no, documentaries - nyet, museums - nada. Juan-Mauuel had the solution and  took me for a bike-ride around the cultural sights - fantastic bike tracks in a city thats beautiful to see by bicycle. And then there is Gaudi. I explored the Sagrada Familia and then Brenda and I explored Parc Guell full of Gaudi's wild and wacky structures. Barcelona is a beautiful city with new sights around every corner. Thanks to our hosts who made us feel welcome in their city and gave us all the great tips for making the most of our time.M
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Granada, Andalusia, Spain

Granada is the most fantastico place.  Like Sevilla it has an Analusian character all its own.  The feel is very bohemian.  Language is noticeably different and harder for us to understand. Architecture and decoration has a distinctively Moorish aspect.We wandered up hills of cobbled streets in the Albaicin - an area settled by gypsies/new age travellers. Houses were cave-like, white-washed and dug into the hills.  Found a wine bar (window in a house) for cerveja and tinto.  Inbetween serving us the owners and their guests were getting up to some sus. activities -  lots of singing ensued afterwards! On our 2nd day here we queued to see The Alhambra - the reason everyone comes to Granada. This is the only surviving large Muslim palace in the world. The Alcazaba  is made up of fortresses, ramparts, towers and dungeons.  But the jewel is the Nasrid Palace with the Palacio de los Leones(Lions). Its surrounded by the Generalife - magnificent planned, sculptured gardens, where water is an art form.  I think this is where the inventors of Zen or Feng Shui got their ideas!The snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains form an impressive backdrop to it all.On our 2nd night we seriously got into tapas-bar hopping and perfected the system we had been practicing.  Had some great falafel and baklava over our time there.After Granada we bussed to Alicante for a night, then trained to Barcelona.to be cont¨dBMachu Picchu - Alhambra - Machu Picchu - Alhambra - Machu Picchu - Alhambra. Ahh, we have been spoilt but its difficult to say which is the best. Both amazing structures built in similar times by amazing craftsmen, engineers and landscape gardeners. Apart from the magnificent buildings and decorations, the Moorsh people were incredibly creative with water throughout the extensive gardens. May see some creative changes to Parkes Lane in the future - about 5 years in the future after we have paid our travelling debts. By the end of two days of solid walking in Granada we were both complaining of aches and pains in the knees and ankles, but that didn't stop us from bar hopping into the early hours. Crook sleeps in our hotel because the Spanish dont sleep - they drive around the streets all night it seems on little motor scooters that sound like chain saws and then walk up and down the corridors of tourist hotels talking at the top of their voices at 3.00am. Well, it seemed like that!Bus trip to Alicante took us through arid countryside that was never the less being farmed. Must be something good going on though because building development is going through the roof in this part of Spain, cranes as far as the eyes can see, high rise in outpost towns. Must be money in growing olives.Spent our first night with a hospitality host, Jean-Francois. He took us to a hip bar in the city to soften us up for the night in a single bed. Hmm, ..... cosy. A nice guy who has frequent guests in his penthouse.M
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Madrid, Madrid, Spain

Wow! 3 nights in Madrid - what a vibrant, bustling town.  Our hostal was slap bang in the centre of all the action - Puerto del Sol.  Thank goodness for the double glazed glass on the french doors and the rolla-shutter.  Or we would have been awake ALL night as opposed to just 4am!Our friend from the hospitality club - Goyo was great and spent a couple of days walking us around all the sights and took us to a Sideria which was like another world.  The only description I can come up with is like a scene from a Dickensian novel.  From outside. . .nothing.  Inside the smoke-filled bar a noisy, joyful crowd, talking ten-to-the-dozen, drinking eating and celebrating each others company.  Tapas came with the cider, and the tradition is to pour into the glass from a great height and strange angle!  Anyway - lots of fun.Madrid is incredibly well organised in Barrajas Airport & the Metro, trains are always on time, clean and efficient.  Great to be able to get to and from the airport for 2 Euros with no dramas, rather than pay huge amounts for cabs.On the first night in town we went to Corral de la Morreria Flamenco show - booked at home on the advice of Goyo.  We scammed our way to the front table, (or rather our French friends did for us), touching the stage and so feeling the pulse.  The show was fabulous - passionate and dramatic, dancers almost trance-like.  The flamenco guitars were excellent as well.BAbsolute credit to Brenda on her organisation for this leg of the journey. She booked the perfect location in a newly renovated room in the historical (and nightclub) quarter of Madrid months back - did the same with the Flamenco show, both without a hitch. Better than a travel agent. Then Madrid also turned on the flawless airport and Metro. Even though it ¨rained in Spain¨ on our first day, it fined up to make it a great experience. We got to see the Picasso exhibit at the Reina Sofia including Guernica. Brenda also went to the Prado but as we have found with a lot of things here, a reluctance to signpost in English had her in the wrong line for the Goya exhibition.Walking walking walking......... we must be fit. I reckon we must be walking 6-10 hours a day. But there is not much we miss by walking. Lucky we are only 35 years old and not 65!M
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