TravelStream™ news feed for member cmbottrell on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/cmbottrell en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Fri, 03 Jul 2009 18:39:35 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/cmbottrell/1/1246660184/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/cmbottrell/1/1246660184/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/cmbottrell/1/1246660184/tpod.html Fri, 03 Jul 2009 18:39:35 -0400 cmbottrell's Great Adventure

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Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

I had thought I wouldn't drive anywhere today but decided that I was this close to LM Montgomery's and Green Gables that I should drive up there - the good thing is that nothing on the island is that far away - except if you are going from east to west!

I am so glad I went - the drive up was through farmland - beautiful rich farmland and farms nestled in the rolling hills. I started my tour of the north shore in Cavendish and with a tour of Green Gables and then made my way to Rustico - I found a bench by the bay and sat and read and watched the boats go in and out.

I read "Evangaline" by Longfellow - I've never read anything by him and was interested because I had just been in the area of Nova Scotia that they had lived in when they were driven out by the British. I was blown away by Longfellow's writing and the beauty of the poem - it was sad and powerful and a beautiful love story. I am going to read it again because I know I didn't fully take it all in the first time.

I had lunch at the Blue Mussel - sat on the porch and had Lobster Roll - the waitress was quite nice and didn't bother me much as I was reading! I will hate to weigh myself when I get home because I know I have gained weight from all the good food I have eaten while I was here!

I went further down the road to a beach and walked along the water and sat for a bit in the sun and watched the people - couldnt' believe they were going into the water - it was cold! But to them it was warm! I had my suit with me but wasn't that game!

If I had to - at this moment - pick a part of the island I like best it would be the North Shore - now the eastern shore may surprise me tomorrow but I find it hard to believe that anywhere is as beautiful as what I saw today.

White shores, beautiful beaches, quaint harbour towns....

I'm on my way to a cadleigh - I've never been to one and the best on the island is right up the road!


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Grand Manan, New Brunswick, Canada

I had my first lobster ever on Grand Manan and it was totally and completely....awful! Will was so excited for me to try them as it is one of his favorite foods but the woman who fixed it did something that we can't quite figure out and it was awful! She roasted the lobster, which Will had never heard of and then drowned it in some sauce - it was rubbery and strong and yuck! Will asked me if I would ever try lobster again and I said "NO!".

He promised me they weren't all like that so we found another place on the island that served lobster dinners - he made reservations for us and with a bit of trepidation I tried it again and what a difference!

It was a small dining room in a lodge down by the wharf - the man's wife had taken a holiday to Cape Cod and he was running the lodge and the dining room by himself. It was raining so we couldnt' sit out at the picnic tables to eat them which is what he preferred as they are a bit messy, so he sat us inside. Will asked him if he had any beer and he said yes and left and came back with two - no selection, just what he had on hand - they were ice cold and good!

When brought the lobsters they were steaming hot and served wtih coleslaw and corn on the cob! I knew from what Will said it was messy so I asked for a towel or something - he came back from the kitchen with a dishtowel and tied it around my neck and off we went.

I have to admit I didn't tear the lobster apart - Will was kind enough to do that for me! Just something about the face that bothers me! But my oh my oh my...delicate and light and flavourful! Yummy! I swear I could have eaten two!

We were game for dessert and asked about what he had - he took a breath and said berry crumbe - we were waiting for the next selection but there wasn't one - so we took that and it was wonderful! The nice thing about Grand Manan is that everything is made from scratch and is wonderful!

My third lobster was in Nova Scotia at Hall's Harbour - we went there to see the tide come in and raise the boats off the ocean floor. Now this was the kind of place where you pick out your lobster and they weigh him and then you take him to the pot - I was really going to try this but once I saw the lobster waiving his claws at me I bolted for the doors and said no way! Will had to talk me into it and said he would take care of it all so I sat down and waited - he could tell I was a bit on edge with the whole thing but did a good job of talking me through it all.

This lobster wasn't quite as good as my second one - cooked just a bit too long but ok. Will is much pickier as he has grown up eating Maine lobsters and knows lobster - I knew enought to know it wasn't as good as my second one! The fun thing was we were sat outside by the wharf and got to watch the tide come in and raise up the boats which was really cool!

So there you have my lobster experience on this trip!
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Machias Seal Island Bird Sanctuary, New Brunswick, Canada

This was truly an amazing experience. I have known about Puffins for years - I was first introduced to them by my sister in law when I visited the Northwest in the 80's, so I couldnt' pass up a chance to get up and personal with them.

We drove to Seal Cove and had to be there by 6:45 AM sharp as the boat was leaving at 7 and we quickly found out why - the boat had to leave before the tide got to low. We were on a lobster boat that had be fitted with benches and had just been taken out of use for lobstering earlier that week.

There were about 15 people on the trip, including a couple from St Louis! Couldn't believe it that someone from back home would be on the boat! We had a nice chat but they were serious birders and wanted to watch for all kinds of birds as we traveled to the island. It was kind of hard to see much as it was foggy again - the captain used GPS and radar to get us there and wasn't sure we would be able to land because of the tide.

The captain was good and was able to get us close enough to anchor the boat and then take us ashore four at a time in a the skif which was being towed behind us on the entire trip. We had to step out onto seaweed and hope not to slip into the water but we all made it.

Then we were taken to the blinds - sort of like a duck blind where we spent the next hour. They were putting 8 people to a blind which was a little tight for me so we were lucky to get into one with one other couple. Then we open these little windows and wait and then...there they are - the puffins - up close and personal!

You could hear them in their burrows - it sounded like a chainsaw. They were never really still, always hopping around and not making any noise. At times I would swear they were just staring at us staring at them. They even landed on the roof of the blind and you could hear them running back and forth - which made us all laugh. There were also razorbills - which I wasn't familar with but were also pretty and very affectionate with each other.

There were supposed to be terns there to but they have abandoned the island but no one knows why and they are trying to bring them back because provide protection for the baby puffins.

There is also a manned lighthouse there - the only one on the eastern seaboard. The island is only about a mile long and half mile wide and it's more or less a rock but it's ownership is disputed by the Canadian and American government - the Canadians have it and the American's want it - more for the fishing rights around it than anything. So the Canadians keep a lighthouse keeper there all the time - they know if they don't have someone there the American's will come and take it! So the lighthouse keeper is there 28 days at time, or more if the weather is bad. They are taken on and off the island by helicopter and if it's foggy they can't leave until it clears - sometimes 28 days extends out to 40 days or more.

The tide was coming in and there was a narrow window of time to get us off the island - a bit treacherous as the tide was up and the wind was blowing so the captain had to come in between waves and between two rock outcroppings - I have to say I admire how he did it!

Only 25 people a day are allowed on the island and only for a few months out of the year - so we both know what truly special experience it was!

After we left Machias the captain swung by a very small island, ok it was more like a big rock - actually it was called North Rock and the seals lived there - that was fun! To see them slide into the sea and swim out to take a look at us - there were Harbour seals and Grey Seals - I like the faces of the Habour seals - they look like puppy faces.

I slept on the way back - which surprised me but the gentle rocking of the boat put me right to sleep! And I got a sunburn on my face because I was laying on a bench in the back of the boat - lesson - put on sunscreen even if it is a cloudy day!
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Canning, Nova Scotia, Canada

We left Canning Nova Scotia this morning about 8:45 AM and drove to the Halifax Airport - leaving was hard as this was one of the most beautiful areas I have ever seen in my life - lush and green and bountiful, to say the very least. Views so spectacular I couldn't capturet them with a camera but took smaller shots of things I liked and will post them tomorrow.

I dropped Will off at ten and went on my way - a bit of a sad thing, I'm always up for adventure but sad to leave him behind as I drove off - I've enjoyed the company.

I successfully made it across the Confederation Bridge - my fears were unfounded - even though it's 12 miles long you could see PEI the entire time. My entry into PEI was a bit jarring - the first thing you come to is a tourist mall - seriously - it was full of people shopping and I couldn't tell if they were all tourist. You had to go there to get the map and directions!

I took off and followed the shore towardst the west - what a change from NS - almost barren in a way - hard to describe - houses were far apart and the weather is dreary and very fall like - so I felt myself wanting a fire and to snuggle in instead of traveling.

The soil is the reddest I have ever seen in my life - so read that the roads are tinged wtih pink and I saw a brown and white horse that was more brown and pink! They are known for their potatoes - so it was farmland most of the way and potato fields. Even at the tourist area there was a potato bar!

After driving for what seemed hours I finally got close the area I am staying an d on the horizon I could see wind turbines with blades half as long as it was tall - I felt like I had fallen into a science fiction movie.

I am at the lighthouse now and my room is two floors below the light and the walls all slant inwards - it's a bit like visiting Alice in Wonderland. I went to go for a hike but turned back - the biggest mosquitos I have ever seen who are not afraid of bug spray - so I'll be spending my evening taking a long hot bath and reading and watching the sea from my window.

I hope all is well and I'll write again tomorrow.
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Canning, Nova Scotia, Canada

A quick note - we are getting ready to head off for another adventure today - not quite sure what but it won't be a lot of hiking!

We started yesterday with a great breakfast at the inn - but even before you get to the dining room the innkeeper brings you juice and homemade muffins to your room! Wonderful! Then breakfast was in the dining room with all the other guests - at 8:30 am! A wonderful selection of homemade food - I had egg puffs with Canadian Bacon and wheat toast and homemade jams! I don't normally eat toast but the jam had to be eaten so I sacrificed myself!

Yesterday we went out to Blomidon and hiked over a mile on the ocean floor to get to the water - the sand was deep red and not as squishy as I thought it would be, the wind was stronger than I thought it would be though - I saw things I couldn't even imagine. I am seeing colors of green I thought only existed in someone's imagination -it is so lush and deep and rich here. The cliffs were red - so many different colors of red topped with rich green forest and grass - breathtakingly beautiful.

From there we went out to Cape Split -now that sounds like it was easy but my, oh my...the trail was moderate to difficult - depending on who you asked and what your physical capabilities were - first there is a little town there called Scot's Bay and it is on the opposite side of the pennisula from Blomidon -the beach color it is as far from red in color as you can get - a shimmery silver color and only a half hour from the reds of Blomidon.

The trail goes through bogs, over volcanic rock, across so many tree roots you think they are the steps made by someone to take on the trail - all the while going through a forest - it's damp and beautiful - for about the first mile and then you realize that this is the scenery for the next four miles! So on you go - through streams, bogs, puddles, over roots and up the rocks! But the end makes it all worth while.

At the end the forest opens up and you are in a meadow of long grass overlooking the entrance to the Minas Basin - where the volume of water pouring into the basin is great than all the rivers and streams in the world. The force of the tide is so great that as it comes in it runs up over the the flowing of the rivers into the basin and it looks as if the river has changed direction.

The view was amazing, the shorebirds nesting were amazing, the water was amazing - I guess I'm trying to tell you how amazing it was and worth the five miles to get there - it was partly clear and we could see over to the other side of Nova Scotia. The hardest part of the hike was the five miles back - I can't remember the last time I did a ten mile hike. At the very end we made a wrong turn and got caught in a marsh and had to backtrack! Ugh! Mud up to our ankles but the innkeeper was jolly and showed us the way to the hose! Now we are trying to dry out our hiking boots before we leave.

Ok - time to go! Hope everyone is well - I'm moving a little slow but doing ok! Today is Will's last day so he is deciding where he wants to go!


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Canning, Nova Scotia, Canada

Yesterday was a boat day! We decided to leave the island a day early and head over to Nova Scotia which I'm glad we did as it took almost 12 hours to get from the island to here! We took the early ferry off Grand Manan and still couldn't see anything as it once foggy again. A nice leisurely drive up the Saint John's to catch the ferry boat to Digby and then a three hour crossing on the largest ferry boat I've ever been on.

It had a huge lounge, dining room, movie theater, children's play area and a coffe shop! Starbuck's coffee - oh yes, I had forgotten what it tasted like! I had two before we got off the boat! Will was like a little boy running all over the boat exploring and taking pictures to show me! When we went for a walk later he knew all the good places to sit - you would think he'd been traveling for years on ferry boats.

Then a long drive up north to get to the Inn! The Inn was built in 1860 by a ship's captain and has a nice porch with a porch swing and big chairs for lounging. We have a two room suite on teh second floor with a big tub! The floors slant a bit south and the bathroom door knob is about two feet off the floor - so you have to bend over to open the door! I love it all!

Breakfast is at 8:30! So you come down to eat then or you miss breakfast!

It's raining this morning, a nice gentle rain so I am sitting in our little sitting room writing this waiting for the rain to break. We are heading out to Blomidon Park at two to walk on the ocean floor - the tide will have gone out that far - it goes out three miles.

Ok - we'rre off to explore!
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Grand Manan, New Brunswick, Canada

Well, I am sitting on one of the nicest fairy boats I've ever been on - there is a movie theater, internet connections, Starbuck's and a fancy restaurant! The crossing is three hours and Will is like a little kid running around the boat trying to figure out what to do first - we haven't even left the dock yet and he already has given me one update and is off to get me another of what is going on!

Where to start - I did make it to the airport on time on Wednesday and was even able to stop for a blueberry pie along the way! There was a blueberry stand on the side of the road and I kind of nudged my way ahead of a very crabby lady to get my pie and go! Seeing the look of surprise on his face was worth the drive! Oh, and on the crossing from Grand Manan to the mainland the sun came out!! Yes, sun! I hadn't seen any sun since I landed on the island - so I sat on the upper deck - alone again as no one really goes up there and just took in as much sun as I could - got a tiny sunburn!

When we got up on Thursday morning the sun was shining over the cottage but the bay was still covered in fog and you could see it coming and going - it was much warmer the little meadow in front of the house came alive with birds and bees and bugs! Even the meadow flowers looked prettier in the sunlight. At one point we thought we were watching a very fat bee, but it turned out to be a baby hummingbird -no bigger than the end of my thumb! I've never seen one that small! We sat for about an hour and half just watching the world go by and then got breakfast and went back out to watch some more - we could hear the pheasants in the woods calling each other and the crows and gulls chattering.

The rest of Thursday we spent hiking and exploring the island a bit more than I had - we went to Dark Harbour which is aptly named as it looked as if it came from the Twlight Zone - there was no one there but there were all these boats on the shore and small cabins tucked here and there - very colorful - the boats and cabins. They raise salmon in the harbour so there are great big round things - hard to describe or know what to call them which added to the wierdness of the place - we didn't stay long.

Then we headed back to the Compass Rose in North Head for lunch - my new favorite place to eat and where Willa often went for dinner. Everything on the island is made from scratch - right down to the chocolate sauce for the brownie and ice cream! It's a small place about 12 tables set in a very bright and cheery enclosed porch overlooking the wharf (very small wharf) but we could see the boats coming and going. Oh, and they had a cappucino machine! Yes! We didn't have the brownie but had the apple crisp with carmel ice cream for dessert!! Oh my...

Then off to hike at Swallowtail lighthouse! I had been there on Wednesday before I left to get Will but because of the fog you couldn't see it - but on Thursday it was bright and clear and the view as spectacular! We hiked all the way to the edge of the cliffs and there was a bench there - just waiting for us, so we sat for the longest time watching the fog come and go and only gave it up when the next couple hiked out that far.

We picked up some seafood chowder and headed back to the cottage for the evening - we read and sat in the yard and looked at the ocean and watched for the seals and listened to the ferry boat fog horn as they came and went. We hiked to the falls that we could see from the cliff below the house - you catch the red trail behind the cottage - the trail is marked by tin can lids painted red and tacked on trees - it's like playing a game in the woods because you have to really look for them. At the first falls we completely lost the trail and had a heck of a time finding it - finally we relized we had to cross the creek and pick up the trail on the other side! At this point Will gave it up and went back - he wasn't feeling well but I went on! There were times that the smell of pine was so strong, it almost made me heady. It reminded me of the incense my dad used to burn when I was little only this was a hundred times better. And then another time there was wild roses and the fragrance was mixed with pine and I just wanted to stand there and take it all in but kept going. The trail was not the easiest I've ever hiked - often there were steps made up by the tree roots and I crossed three creeks that led to falls off the cliffs to the ocean but I never could find the source of the water.

Dinner was a mixed green salad, chowder and homemade bread and beer - sitting looking out at the ocean. An early night because we had to get up early on Friday to drive down to Seal Cove to get the boat to Machias Island - it's hard going to bed early here because it doesn't get dark until very late -about ten or later! You go to bed in daylight and get up in daylight!
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Digby, Nova Scotia, Canada

What a relief - I found a computer at an information station on the way to the boat to go to Digby! We are heading over a day early - we figured out that we could make the first boat from Grand manan and then catch the boat over to Nova Scotia!

So much has happened that I will write about tonight - quick update - went to Machias Island to see the Puffins - what an experience! wow! Saw the seals playing on North Rock too!

Ate my first lobster! YUCK! The way it was fixed was awful! Will convinced me to try again and we found another place and Will was very careful to make sure it was boiled, not roasted! I am now a big lobster fan!! Yes! Sat with a dishtowel around my neck, drinking beer and sucking on lobster! Oh my....yes, I have pictures - which I think I can post tonight!

Ok -we are off - will write tonight - think I have internet access!!
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Grand Manan, New Brunswick, Canada

Well the fog and drizzle and damp persists! I don't mind except everything is damp - the kind of damp that never dries unless you find it a heat source! Including me!

On Monday afternoon I went exploring around the cottage and found a path that lead through the woods to the cliffs and there it was - a bench overlooking the sea! My special place! I sat for the longest time watching the tide come in and then I spotted them - the seals! There were seals playing in the surf! They couldn't see me but I could see them - I was up on a cliff! Oh it was as if they were sent there just for me - I went out yesterday again and they were there!

For dinner on Monday, I had seafood chowder and a mixed greens salad - now that doesn't sound like much but what made it special was that I sat at the table looking out the window and the water! It was magical - I had a fire in the fireplace and soft jazz playing - a better place in the world there wasn't at that moment!

Yesterday - well, my best day by far - I woke up to a gentle rain falling, got up had breakfast, laid down to read and slept for two more hours! Took a brief drive to buy my ticket for the ferry today and then back to the cottage! I watched old Alfred Hitchcock -yes I brought him with me - nothing too scary though as I'm still getting used to sleeping in the middle of nowhere - without locks! Did I mention that- there are really no locks on the cottage - she gave me some keys but none of them seem to work! So I throw caution to the wind every night!

The rest of my day was spent reading! I walked through the woods and the mist to the inn for dinner and it was well worth it! I had the best seafood risotto I have every had - with fresh scallops! Oh my...my mouth is watering just thinking of it! Laura put me next to a window and by the flower garden and I had a front row seat to a wonderful little hummingbird drinking water from the iris! The gold finches and cardinals were out too! Then back to the cottage for more reading!

I love this place - there are probably no more than a dozen or so roads on the island and they all end at the sea! They have names like - No Man's Land and Mud Patch Road! I haven't explored them all yet but I plan too before I leave!

I hope the fog lifts before I go over this afternoon!

Happy Birthday Rachel - everyone reading this remember to eat cake for Rachel,s Birthday tomorrow!
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Grand Manan, New Brunswick, Canada

Well I made it! I missed the first ferry because of misreading the time table so I had time to nap and explore Black's Harbour! The ride over was wonderful - it got so foggy that they had to sound the horn every minute! You couldn't see land at all and I learned that lighthouses have different sounds and light flashes so the sailor's could tell them apart, It's cold and wet and foggy and I love it!

The cottage is old and drafty and has two huge fireplaces and wet firewood and not much heat and I think it's wonderful! It sits on some cliffs overlooking the bay and it is nestled back by itself. I drive through the woods to get to it and sometimes you are guessing where the road is.

I ate at the dining room at "Whale Cove Inn" - which isn't really an inn - but more like a place by the sea. The woman who owns it, Laura, is also the chef and on my...Anthony, she makes the best bread I have ever tasted - I asked for a few slices to take back to the cottage for breakfast. I had "Chicken Oscar" for supper last night - I'm not even sure how she did it but it was wonderful. A chicken breast stuffed with lobster and cheddar, lightly breaded and perfectly cooked - it was nice round ball! Roasted potatoes and grilled broccoli and mushrooms with a Hazelnut Creme Brulee for supper! The kind of meal you just want to sit and linger over and I did!

Did you know that silence is noisy? It is that quiet at the cottage. I walked to the edge of the cliffs and looked down on the beach and I can see two beautiful waterfalls - I hope to hike to them when the rain stops.

From my front door I can see the fog rolling in and hear the foghorn of the lighthouse and Swallowtail. The yard is small because it runs into a small field of the most beautiful wildflowers and then some pine trees and the cliffs. I am surrounded by the most beautiful pine trees and sounds from the earth - a world to explore.

I brought all the wrong clothes - I have more summer things but will be wearing my jeans and hiking boots all week! And that,s ok with me!

I am off today to drive around the island - which won,t take me long - I'm hoping to find a spot to sit and write!
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