TravelStream™ news feed for member claireaussi on TravelPod's free travel blogs service http://www.travelpod.com/syndication/rss/claireaussi en-us Copyright ©2009 TravelPod.com Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:55:37 -0400 http://www.travelpod.com http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/2/1253143111/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/2/1253143111/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/2/1253143111/tpod.html Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:55:37 -0400 Making the Most of a Mini Holiday in Asia

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Singapore, Singapore

The Good:

A versatile, clean city worth exploring and not just shopping.

Public transport in Singapore - Great value and using the 'card' system, which can be topped up (minimum of $S 10) is easier than purchasing individual tickets per journey, saves time and can be used on the MRT (trains) and buses. You 'tag on' and 'tag off' at each point of entry or departure gates (turn style) or on the bus - very similar to Perth's (in Aus) public transport smart rider card.

The Malay/Indian/Asian food is great value and big serves/meals are often around $S 5, ($4 AUD), though drinks are same price as in Aus or dearer, particularly alcoholic ones. Tiger beer (refreshing lager) can be around $S 5 for a decent size glass. The best value (cheapest) and best tasting coffee is at Ya Kum Kaya Cafes, where you can buy a toasted sandwich filled with their famous egg and coconut jam consisting of coconut milk, palm sugar, eggs and fragrant pandan) and a traditonaly brewed strong coffee for 1 person only $2 AUD!

You can find some good bargains (particularly in Little India and various markets, most under cover) with clothing, materials, electronic goods and accessories, and you will need to barter at times too for the 'best price'.

Changi International Airport - beautifully landscaped and with 3 terminals with free 'skytrain' access between all three, that offer a variety of free services/facilities and free activities and things to do (even free tours around Singapore if your transit/connecting flights are 5 hours of more between flights) Free facilities include: children's playgrounds, cinemas, playing electronic games (incl. Sony play stations), Internet usage (BYO laptop or use the computers there), music and TV lounges, rest areas, interactive art areas, art exhibitions, events and entertainment, massage chairs (legs and feet), airport viewing platforms, local calls or mobile calls within Singapore, parent's rooms, showers, prayer room, smokers areas (outdoors and indoors), various themed garden areas with water features, rockeries, sculptures, koi fish ponds complete with bridges, exotic and tropical plants, even a cacti garden, sunflower garden, and a butterfly garden. There are a variety of shops, eateries and bars/cafes/restaurants for all budgets, beauty services, gym services, a swimming pool, spas, and hotels/sleep areas for reasonable prices as well.


The Not So Good:

Coffee (particularly milk based) is expensive! Star-bucks seems to be the cheapest for a Cuppachino at $5 AUD. (whether you have soy milk or not).

Hotel accommodation for a room is expensive overall - minimum price at $100 AUD per night with an online booking and usually as a 'special'. Best to 'shop around' and compare for the best deals available online and before you arrive there.


Other Comments:

Janice and I stayed at the Cityhub Hotel (1 year old) in Little India, a few bloks away from the Mustafa 24 hr department store for the above price and the rooms are clean, fairly roomy with big windows, A/C, bar fridge, tea/coffee making facilities, en-suite, TV, and includes a small buffet style breakfast. The staff are lovely too and helpful.
http://www.cityhubhotel.com/

Santosa Is is worth a day's visit (night time events happen as well). We were there for half a day as the weather wasn't the best, so we didn't/couldn't experience all the attractions, which are reasonably priced. The monorail there and back cost only $2.60 AUD and all bus and tram transport around and on the island is free. Buying a cuppachino there was cheaper than buying one in Singapore City and the meals were great value to. There are nature walk trails in place, but Santosa Is is mostly touristy, though I have to say, they do cater well for the tourist young and old.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/2/1254669562/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/2/1254669562/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/2/1254669562/tpod.html Mon, 12 Oct 2009 10:55:19 -0400 Making the Most of a Mini Holiday in Asia

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Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan, Malaysia

The Good:

Leaving behind the wet, windy, wintry weather of Perth to arrive in fine, and hot weather of Malaysia.

My morning 5 hr flight with budget airlines - Air-Asia X was comfortable, restful and the service and care of the flight attendants were excellent. The prices for drinks and food were of good value as well (pay extra on board during the flight) and the traditional Malaysian meal served (paid in advance or during the flight) was tasty.

Public transport in KL (Kuala Lumpur) - Cheap and Ticket office/booth staff were pleasant (effective ticketing cards system) and had no problems getting around using the trains or monorails.

As I was staying overnight in Bukit Bintang, the 'Golden Triangle' area (close to most of the cultural and important landmarks, temples and mosques, Chinatown, markets, huge shopping complexes and Central KL (KLCC) with Petrona Towers, etc.), I could easily walk to and from the places and points of interest I wanted to see.
The KLCC gardens (bordering the Petrona Towers, Suria Shopping Centre, and the Mosque - Masjid Asy (Al)-Syakirin) are worth exploring at a leisurely pace.

The local/traditional food is delicious, great value, big meals often under $4, though drinks are dearer, as is ice cream (I tried green tea ice cream, which was yum and not sickly sweet).

Feeling refreshed, particularly my feet, after my Footmaster Doctor Fish Spa located at Berjaya Times Square Mall in the Bukit Bintang area. Good value for $9 for nearly 40m mins of treatments. You can read more in my review of Footmaster:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g298570-d1547202-r44051523-Foot_Master_Fish_Spa-Kuala_Lumpur_Wilayah_Persekutuan.html

I didn't feel hassled or uncomfortable visiting this great city on my own.


The Not So Good:

If you're booking a window seat (paying $10 to choose where you want to sit) on the Perth to KL flight with Air-Asia X, DO NOT choose 14A (as I did) as there is no window next to you, and behind you is a 'wall' (can't recline) and there is nothing mentioned on their site (nor in the seating arrangement plan) to say that it is not a window seat, even though it's marked that it is. Fortunately, when I asked the attendants if I could move, explaining my situation, the flight attendants suggested another seat I could move to with a window, further up the plane, so I sat there contently instead.

Even though my room was OK, clean and with a double bed and verandah, and a budget price of $24, it wasn't a welcoming guest house (there are others to choose from at around the same price) and I had interupted sleep all night from the noisy Indian owners/staff and their visiting friends/rellies. You can find out more by reading my review on this guest house:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g298570-d1473039-Reviews-Sky_Palms_Guest_House-Kuala_Lumpur_Wilayah_Persekutuan.html


Other Comments:

Great value in all - only costing me $220 for the air flight to KL, transport from LCCT Airport to KL Sentral (railway station), accommodation overnight, and luxury coach incl.meal served on board to Singapore!


]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209279720/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209279720/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209279720/tpod.html Sat, 17 May 2008 09:11:53 -0400 An Insight To India

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Delhi, India

1/2/2008

Traveling back to Delhi...
I left the Jaipur Inn around 8:30 am, well rested, and walked over the bridge to meet the pre-arranged awaiting taxi, which took me to Haridwar (passing a large statue of Shiva, a Hindu Lord, responsible for the creation of the Ganges River). I had time for a cup of chai and 'home made' Indian biscuits for brekkie, and a little look around at the shops and stalls/carts near the train station, and purchased a pair of socks. Toe socks (made so you can put your big toe in separately from the rest of your toes/foot) were all they had, which is so practical, as thongs (flip-flops) are popular footwear with Indians even in Winter!
The train I'd board to take me back to Delhi, was delayed half an hour, and I was able to have a single seat (with a large window, across the aisle from the 4 seated compartment, so I had a good view (windows only lightly tinted), of the country side en-route to Delhi. I saw agricultural farms and paddocks, with a variety of produce, most of which were all growing contently next to each other including: cane sugar, eucalyptus gums, cauliflower, cabbage, mustard, grapes, rice (in swampy areas), mango trees, and small plots of banana trees - utilising every bit of land, that the farmers could. There were also discs of cow dung neatly stacked in large, circular mounds, to dry out and be collected as 'fuel' (replacing firewood) for the fires for cooking meals and heating. There were also several brick works and chimneys amongst the paddocks., as well as squallers/camp sites of the poor fringing the towns and railway stations. I had lunch on the train (chickpea dhal and rice) which was OK and served in trays for 40 INR ($1.20).
I finally arrived at Nizamuddin Railway Station an hour and a half late, so thought it'd be best to hire a tuk-tuk to take me back to the Namaskar Hotel to collect my luggage. I had asked the staff there prior about what they'd likely pay for a tuk-tuk ride from Nizamuddin to Namaskar Hotel, so I added another 30 rupees being that I'm a 'Westerner' and had an estimate price of 80 rupees. I went to 2 different areas of where lots of tuk-tuks were parked and prices varied from 140 - 95 rupees! I finally found 1 young driver (had his license for a year) who would take me there for 90 rupees. He drove extremely well considering the traffic and unpredictable turns and direction of the other vehicles close by, and as we neared the Main Bazaar intersection, he asked a man on a parked pedal rickshaw which street to take for the Namaskar Hotel. The man noticed me and promptly said that he couldn't drive there in his tuk-tuk, and to let me off (smiling at me) and that he would take me there for only 20 rupees (in part English). I was pretty sure I knew the way (familiar surroundings), and smiled back saying "Ney Shukria" and stayed where I was, saying to my driver that it was OK for tuk-tuk to go to the Namaskar. The Rickshaw driver persisted, "No, No, no tuk-tuk, road too narrow. I take you in Rickshaw!" I again said "Ney" shaking my head, and turned to my driver and again reassured him that he could drive there and mentioned (speaking louder) that I had traveled in a tuk-tuk in the markets 2 days before. I stayed put, and my driver was unsure what to do, but thankfully, the rickshaw driver, glaring at me, pointed with his hand the street to take, so (with a quiet sigh of relief from me) we continued on, parsing several tuk-tuks on the way and I recognised 2 shops (and their fixed signs on the walls) close by to the little lane way to the Namaskar Hotel, and asked my tuk-tuk driver to stop. He did and I payed him for the journey, gave him a big smile and said he was the best tuk-tuk driver in India and thanked him sincerely. He grinned back and waved and continued on.
I had 1 hour left before I'd need to leave by taxi (pre-arranged with the Namaskar Hotel staff for the price of 200 rupees or $6 to take me to the Indira Gandhi International Airport. I repacked the larger backpack, taking the day pack (zips on to the bigger pack) with me, so I headed off to the markets (after quickly freshening up) for some last minute bargains, as I was on the lookout for long pants and some smaller items. I was determined not to pay higher than what I'd set in my mind to be the limit for what I could afford, and I had a rough guide by now, on how much similar items cost and what a fair price was. I bartered, and haggled politely, but stuck firm with what I was offering, and out of 3 shops I visited that had what I was looking for, only 1 didn't agree to my price.
I returned to the Namaskar and tipped the guys for looking after my luggage and also a staff member, who carried my luggage for me to a waiting rickshaw driver (all pre-arranged by the hotel) and he took me to where the taxi was waiting, which I shared with a Japanese girl.
I had a few snacks and drinks using most of the last lot of rupee coins I had, before boarding the Singapore Airlines plane to take me back to Aus (via Singapore).
What an awesome 14 days I had had in India, and something truley special I will remember in years to come!
Bye Bye India!, and off I flew into the night sky...

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Tips & Advice:
Look around for landmarks and memorable signs, buildings, colours/styles of fences or gates, etc, near your place of accommodation, to help you become familiar of where your accomodation is when venturing out, as streets may not be signposted or numbers of the hotel or guest house may not be visible, which may make it difficult for a driver (rickshaw/tuk-tuk/taxi) to find to drop you off or pick you up. Also, less chance of drivers taking advantage of you and misguiding/misdirecting you so they can charge extra or make money from you because of you not knowing the area of where you are staying.
Ask local English speaking Indians (staff of your hotel/hostel/guest house, restaurant staff, Information officer at a train/bus station, etc...) if they know about how much it will cost to go to where you'd like to go in a tuk-tuk or other transport so you have a rough idea of what you should pay (adding around 50% of that price for tourist price).

Price Guide:
* Taxi from Laxman Jhula - Haridwar: 500 INR ($16. AUD) pre-charged by the hotel.
I was told by an Indian man, that the price of a taxi is based on 8 rupees for every 1 km travelled x 2 (driver's return journey). Example: Haridwar to Laxman Jhula central is 31 km x 8 = 248 x 2 = 496 INR
* Train from Haridwar - Delhi traveling 2A class: 507 INR ($14. AUD)

Useful links:
http://www.dollsofindia.com/ganga.htm How the Ganges River came to be - it's powers, beliefs, and the legends of the Gods and Godesses who created it.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209086340/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209086340/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209086340/tpod.html Sat, 17 May 2008 08:54:35 -0400 An Insight To India

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Udaipur, Rajasthan, India

29/1/2008

Traveling to Udaipur
Janice was not well in the early hours of the morning (vomiting and diarrhoea), so we took it easy, and Janice rested, sleeping on and off in the back seat all the way to Udaipur, 270 kms southwards. We put it down to an 'off' egg in the 2nd omelette she had the night before as she said it had tasted different and not as nice as her first omelette. Sanjeev beeped the horn less as well and tried to avoid the pot holes!
The dry landscape soon changed to farming areas framed by mountains. Eucalyptus trees grow on either side of the road and more variety of trees and plants (including yellow flowering acacias) were seen.
We stopped for lunch at a road side cafe (Janice feeling slightly better) and then continued on winding around the hills to Ranakpur - a village where you can buy assorted designed, hand woven durries (rugs), and visit the stunning marble Jain temples (large complex surrounded by gardens and the forest) built in the 15th century.
The hand carved pillars, walls, ceilings and entrances are intricate and finely detailed, showing the stories, the beliefs and all that's associated with Jainism and Hinduism. I was in awe and saw 2 of the 5 temples (taking over an hour to view them and that was not taking my time either). As I was approaching a third temple, a large group of excited school children were also approaching the temple, and were waving to me, so I waved back and changed my direction, content with having visited 2 of the finest Jain temples I'd seen during my time in Rajasthan. Janice opted to rest more and would see these architectural wonders another day (she stayed in Udaipur for 2 weeks and simply loved it).
We continued on to Udaipur (56 kms away), around the hills and mountains, through forests, and passing grey, furry Langur monkeys with their little black faces staring back at us. A flock of lime green parrots flew by, and even a mongoose crossed the road in front of us!
As we left the forest behind, more farms, fields of mustard and sugar cane, and palms appeared. We passed a few villages, women balancing pots and large bunches sticks on their heads, before being diverted to a 'detour' side road, as road works for a new 4 lane highway (over 20 kms long) were in progress.
We arrived in Udaipur as the sun was setting over one of it's beautiful lakes.
Our accommodation was uncertain, as where Janice had thought she'd book (close view of Lake Pichola and nearby markets of Lal Ghat - Hotel Mewar Haveli, (which we both thought would be a good place to stay), wasn't anywhere near, and the name of the hotel was very similar to Mewar Haveli, and we couldn't even phone the hotel she had booked, prior to us arriving in Udaipur. She had booked and prepaid the accommodation on-line through an agency, (not been in contact with the hotel directly, as we had with our other accommodation) who accepted the booking and had confirmed it by email. Sanjeev (through India's yellow pages) couldn't find a current phone number either, but at least we had the address (found to be on the city's outskirts), and after taking everything into consideration, we decided to find accommodation elsewhere. Unfortunately, the Mewar Haveli was booked out.
Sanjeev had suggested a 'new' hotel with a view of the lake - the Hotel Hill Lake (we were dubious) as he had seen one of the rooms and was impressed, so we drove up a steep driveway (no room to park the car) and entered the reception lounge of the 4 story white building, and after having seen the room (3 flights of stairs) - basic and not a practical layout with a little view of the lake, we decided against staying there and was overpriced for what it was. Sanjeev was also disappointed with the room, but he was assured by the management that it was the only one available (in our price range). Janice and I had looked at (and marked) other accommodation suggested in The Lonely Planet 'bible', for allot less, and as she was still feeling queasy, I suggested to Sanjeev to phone the Jheel Guest House and see if they had a room vacant with a lake view. Luckily, there was 1 available and a couple to choose from, (larger with excellent views) the next day, and the Manager (Roopa) seemed helpful. So we drove to the old, refurbished Guest House (with parking close by), which was tucked away in a lane way beside the lake in Lal Ghat, and easy walking distance to the bazaar and 15 mins walk to the Palace. Perfect location! We inspected the room, shown to us by Ram (the owner) and it was simply and colourfully furnished, but full of character with sheer curtained windows showing good views of the lake, and with en-suite) and Sanjeev agreed that it was a better room. Janice felt comfortable and soon went to sleep.
Sanjeev hurried me to 'sign' us in at the Manager's office/come sleeping quarters, as there was a folk music and dancing show about to start just down the road at the Bagore Ki Haveli. I'd just ordered a tea too, but didn't want to miss the show!
We walked swiftly to a lit courtyard, and had just enough time to find a seat before the show (an hour long) started at 7 pm, and what an entertaining and professional show it was, featuring live traditional music and dances of Rajasthan, puppetry, and balance.
On the way back to the guest house, (and visiting the ATM) we went down to the lake's ghat and viewed the Lake Palace (now a luxurious hotel) beautifully lit up on it's own island in the lake.
After Sanjeev left, I checked in on Janice, and she was sleeping like a baby. I was feeling peckish and went upstairs to the guest houses' rooftop restaurant, which was adequately lit, had a good, relaxing vibe to it, lovely view of Pichola Lake and mountains, and I was the only one there! May be it was too cold for other guests, however I was warm and the waiter/come cook, after hearing me calling out a "hello", approached me with a smile and presented me with a menu, and suggested what he could cook for me, (which was about half the meals mentioned on the menu), as at the time he was the only kitchen staff person there. I had a large stuffed pepper/capsicum, dahl and rice, and it all was cooked well and tasted great, with good service! The kitchen hand had arrived and I was looked after like royalty, and the price was good too (all up incl. drinks and tea - $5)!
I went back to the room about 10 pm ish and soon slept like a baby too!

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Price Guide:
* Ranakpur Temples Complex camera entry - $1. AUD
* Udaipur Folk Music & Dancing Show - 60 INR (plus camera fee), or $2.50 all up
* Accommodaton at Jheel Guest House - from 750 INR a room, approx. $18 AUD
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209111660/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209111660/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209111660/tpod.html Sat, 17 May 2008 08:51:08 -0400 An Insight To India

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Delhi, India

30/1/2008

The Palace, the plane, and travellin' in Delhi...
I woke up round 7:30 am to find Janice feeling so much better (thank goodness!), so we had breakfast on the rooftop. I hadn't much time left in Udaipur, as we needed to be at the airport around 2:30 pm, so I could board the Jet Airways plane back to Delhi at 3:30pm. As I needed some bubble wrap (or something similar) to pack my drum in to protect it more for air travel, I asked Ram (Jheel Guest House Owner) where I could buy some, and he smiled and said that he'd arrange it so that I would have some to pack with before we left to go to the airport. We did have enough time to visit the City Palace & Museum, so, on the way walking to the City Palace, who did we pass riding on his motorbike? - none other than Ram wearing a grin and a roll of bubble wrap tucked under his arm (and he didn't charge me for it)!
Visiting the City Palace and Museum was well worth it, even though we felt the extra fee for the audio tour (more than the entry fee) wasn't! Still, it was as interesting and entertaining as the previous audio tours, and the elegant, marble palace (mainly built in the 1600's) was visually stunning (particularly interior wise), displaying historic sculptures and statues, handcrafted and painted tiles, in-laid gem art work, gold plated art, detailed murals, carved panels, decorative stain glass and mirror work, antique Mewar Miniature paintings, and scenic views of the lakes, and Udaipur City. We even briefly saw (Royal guards present) the Queen, who passed us in the 'Royal' car!
We returned to the guest house at around 12:30 pm, and I busily packed my backpack, and spare light-weight duffle bag where my drum (all bubble wrapped) and other purchases and momentums were packed in.
We arrived at Udaipur airport (20 kms away) in plenty of time, and I really wished I had more time to explore Udaipur, but I only had 3 days left in India, (ready to start back at work in Perth on Monday, 4th Feb) and I really wanted to see Rishikesh and the Ganges River before I left India. Janice had another 2 weeks of holiday time in India, and as it turned out chose to stay on in Udaipur. After hugs, thank yous and good-byes to all, I headed inside to the Departure terminal. I had a bit of lunch and to my surprise, they didn't have Indian food, just mostly 'Westerners' food!? The flight to Delhi was 40 mins delayed at first, which became and hour and a half, so I was going to miss meeting Syed (Classic Creations) who'd said that he would deliver some henna products/samples at the Namaskar Hotel, where I would be leaving my backpack and duffle bag (only taking with me 2 days of clothing and necessities to Rishikesh) for a very small fee. The flight was good (1 hr and 15 mins) with dinner served on the plane and I was advised by Sanjeev to order a 'pre-paid' taxi at the 'Pre-paid' booth (cheaper than hiring a taxi there) at the airport to Namaskar Hotel or close to it, as the Main Bazaar lane ways and roads are narrow and too congested for a car at 'peak' times, but fine for a rickshaw/cart or tuk-tuk.
I had 50 mins, once I had arrived (through all the traffic) at the Namaskar Hotel, to put my labled gear in the luggage holding bay, sort out what to take to Rishikesh, freshen up, find a tuk-tuk in the Main Bazar to take me to S. Rohilla Station, and arrive in time to board the overnight train for Haridwar (which is 260 kms N/E from Delhi, and only 28 kms from Rishikesh). Thankfully, I didn't have to wait long for a tuk-tuk, and I arrived at the station with 10 mins to spare, before the train departed the station right on time - 9.05 pm!
I had the whole cabin or compartment (of 4 bunks) to myself (1st class, as there were no spare bunks/seats available when I booked, for 2A or 3A class), for a while at least, and then a distinguished, turbaned Indian (who's an Army animal vet) and 2 other Indian men (1 also in the military - weapons department) boarded and shared the compartment with me. They kept to themselves (didn't hear any snoring!) and I had a good coversation with the turbaned family man, who was pleasant and polite and spoke good English. He was as interested in knowing about Australia and our way of life, as I was in knowing more about the Indian way of life. He was also going to Haridwar, so we set our alarms on our watches to wake us in time (5:30 am) as the train was going further to Mussoorie. We said Good night to each other and after arranging my sheets, blanket and pillow on the bottom bunk (and my passport, camera and money in a small bag close to me) I went to sleep.

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Price Guide:
* City Palace & Museum, Audio tour and camera entry - $12.00 AUD
* Pre-paid taxi from Delhi's Domestic Terminal to Main Bazaar - 240 INR or aprox. $7 AUD
* Tuk-tuk from Namaskar Hotel to S.Rohilla Station (old Delhi) - 80 INR or $2.50 AUD
* First class (1A) overnight train from Delhi to Haridwar, booked online - 895 INR, or $25 AUD

Useful Links:
http://www.webindia123.com/monuments/palaces/udaipurcity.htm Lots of info about the Udaipur City Palace and Museum.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1206109740/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1206109740/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1206109740/tpod.html Wed, 30 Apr 2008 02:38:33 -0400 An Insight To India

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Agra, India

20/1/2008 - 21/1/2008

Mathura Mayhem!
After a late brekkie of delicious Aloo Parathas (flat bread fried in pan, stuffed with mashed potatoes), and freshly made yogurt plus a cup of masala tea at a roadside cafe, the Hari Om Dhaba, we continued on to Mathura, (50 kms N/W of Agra) where it's reputed to be the birthplace of Lord Krishna. The Keshav Dev Temple was built in ancient times on the site of Krishna's legendary birthplace (an underground prison) - Sri Krishna Janmbhoomi.
I was glad that we weren't there for long, as apart from it being crowded, particularly with touts, rickshaw drivers and people and children wanting us to buy anything they had to offer (and were very persistent, continuously following us before and after we entered the temple/site), our 'guide' wanted to double the amount as we neared the end of our little tour to what we had agreed to pay him prior!
We drove on, enjoying Sanjeev's Punjabi and Bhangara music (which was a good thing as it was quite loud).

On the outskirts of Agra...
As we neared the outskirts of Agra, and passed the elaborate gate of the Sikandra Fort, we decided to stop for some lunch and have a look at the Agra Sikh Temple, as we were approaching these magnificent temple buildings. Sanjeev knew about the Sikh religion practices and culture, and we all needed to wear head scarves and as with most temples and places of worship, we took out shoes off as well before entering. What a special 'blessed' time we experienced there - firstly entering the 'prayer' room and being blessed by the 'priest' and joining in with the proceedings (with guidance from Sanjeev). We then entered the 'hall' (and kitchen area) and were guided to an area to sit on the floor mats (in rows) along side other people from all sorts of backgrounds and religions (mostly Indian) and were served water in a metal cup (Janice and I had bottled water, as Indian water is not good for Westeners' stomaches), a ladle of rice, chick peas 'stew', and flat bread on a thali plate (large metal plate with divisions). Everyone ate with their fingers and there was plenty of food - all good! Everyone washed their plates (and cups) when finished in a trough of hot water and detergent, then rinsed them, ready to re-use for the next diners. On your way out you could make a donation for the meal if you wished to.
We then continued on to find accommodation in Agra (the only place we hadn't pre-booked, as we thought our driver would know of some good value budget hotels/guest houses in the area), before visiting the marbleous Taj Mahal just before sunset.

Our accommodation in Agra...
Sanjeev's interpretation of 'good value accommodation with a view of the Taj up to 1200 rupees' was quite different from ours!
Sanjeev did try to book us at a hotel with a Taj view, but the one he had in mind was booked out, so instead of mentioning that to us at the time and consulting further with us, he booked us a room at the Hotel Chanakya, (all good intentions) but it's not near the Taj and rooms had no Taj view. It's rated 3 stars and 'offers all modern living comforts with facilities...running hot and cold water, telephone room service...' and so forth (as printed on their brochures). Well, we went to the hotel and, as we were short of time (to allow us enough time to visit the Taj before sunset), we made the mistake of not checking the room out first. Yes it looked OK from the outside (though your typical touristy, white painted, 3 story motel you could find anywhere in cities of the world) and there was parking for the car. The staff at the reception desk were polite, (the Manager spoke reasonable English) but very matter of factly (not welcomely friendly). We had to 'sign in' (and show our passports as we did in Delhi - a standard requirement for any accommodation for overseas visitors in India) and our luggage was delivered to our room. We had a choice of a lift to the 2nd floor or stairs and when we entered our 'Standard' white room, (with ensuite) it was plainly furnished (slightly cleaner and larger than Namaskar Hotel), with a cold white marble floor, and no character or warmth what so ever, though it did have large windows (looking out to a hotel's balcony across the road). We both thought it was very average for the price of 1500 rupees ($47. AUD). Anyway, we tipped the 'porter', freshened up and were looking forward to our Taj Mahal visit.

The Exquisite Taj Mahal...
It is truly a magnificent white marble building (symmetrical, and with ornate and patterned carvings, inlaid artwork and beautifully painted artwork), which was built in the 1600's in memory of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan's favourite wife - Mumtaz Mahal. The complex has a mosque on 1 side of the impressive tomb with it's 4 minarets, and an identical building (Meeting house) on the other side. A large mughal landscaped garden with water features extends from the entrance gate to the tomb.
We took nearly 2 hours to view it all and luckily, it wasn't too overcrowded. Apparently allot more people visit the Taj from sunrise to mid morning, and waiting in queues to see inside the tomb building can be very time consuming, so a couple I met later informed me.
After taking our photos and the time to appreciate this amazing construction and grand scale of it all, we headed back to where Sanjeev and his friend, Panditjig (a local, who informed us more about the Taj) was waiting and we then drove around to where we could view the Taj from a distance just after the sun had set.

Later in Agra...
We had an inexpensive yummy dinner - a thali consisting of: 3 portions of different vegetarian meals (including dahl, chick peas 'stew', and assorted spiced veggies 'stew'), rice and round flat bread; and we also had Vineer Tikka - oven roasted cottage cheese pieces marinated in tandoori mix, and with some roasted veggies, and all finished off with a bottled mango juice!
After dinner we headed back to the hotel, and thought it'd be a good idea to shower/wash my hair. No hot water, no matter how long I waited and what I tried. As I couldn't phone through to reception (phone didn't work!) I went down to reception twice to ask advice from the Manager (who came up with excuses and kept telling me it'll work soon and try in 30 minutes..., (which was repeated again to me after no luck the first time, to no avail.) and eventually offered a solution: 'we can bring a bucket of hot water soon'. An hour later, I had my bucket shower and managed to wash my hair without my teeth chattering!

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The 'Ghost' city of Fatehpur Sikri

After a reasonable night's sleep, we left Agra and had some breakfast (Dosas - an Indian crepe/pancake) at Sher-E-Punjab cafe in a village, near the ancient 'Ghost' city of Fatehpur Sikri, (a World Heritage Site) approx. 38 kms S/W from Agra.
After breakfast, we were met by Joshi, our Guide, who was genuinely friendly, very informative, spoke good English, and ready to show us the splendours of Fatehpur Sikri. We traveled to this ancient city's huge entrance gate by horse and cart. This abandoned, innovative city (constructed from 1569) was the third Mughal's emperor Akbar's capital for approx. 12 years, till water became scarce and the population moved to Agra and other areas. Akbar's 3 wives (each of a different religion) had their own palaces within the city. The amazing architecture in the different buildings within the fort, the temples, residences and palaces, varies using styles such as Gujarati, Bengale, Hindu and Jain and Islamic craftsmanship. The building material predominantly used is red sandstone, quarried from the same rocky outcrop on which it is situated. White marble, carved out of solid blocks was used to construct the Tomb of Salim Chisti which is centered in the mosque's courtyard and 'graveyard'.
It was all very fascinating, and the trees and gardens are well maintained. In fact Janice and I were even more impressed with Fatehpur Sikri than the Taj! The only down side, was the usual touts, 'stall holders' and boys mostly, selling their wares at high prices within the complex right near the tomb in the mosque courtyard.
We were invited to buy a piece of material (various sizes and fabrics at various prices) to place (as an offering for good luck, good health and good fortune) on top of actual tomb 'bed' of Sheik Salim Chisti, where pilgrims and believers will pray and also offer flower petals (yellow and orange) and also tie a length of yellow, orange and red strings around designated carved screens of the tomb, again for good health and good luck. A large percentage of the proceeds from the fabric pieces go to charity for the poor communities, so with that reason in mind, we bought 1 fabric piece each.
After 2 and a half hours of exploring, and also buying some beautiful, ornately hand carved marble pieces at reasonable prices on the outskirts of the city, we headed back to the Sher-E-Punjab again for some lunch - good food, good value. After lunch we continued on to Jaipur, (4 hours away) only stopping for a cup of Chai and some Indian snacks (for next to nothing) at a little roadside stall.

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Comments:
The highway (mostly expressway) from Delhi to Agra is 4 - 6 lanes wide and our average speed was 85km p/hr. once outside suburbia Delhi, before we neared Mathura. If traveling by taxi (or even motor bike), you will come across toll ways (at major highways) and booths on the roads where tax is paid by the driver to enter each Indian state. Sometimes you may queue up and come to a stop, and at railway crossings also if a train is crossing further in front of you. If this is going to happen, and your in a car, I'd advise you to make sure your windows are properly wound up, as 'professional' beggars, men with 'performing' monkeys and cobras (with their mouths partly stitched up neatly - so they don't bite) in the middle of the road or medium strips, and people (and children) wanting to sell you all sorts of things will come to the car and surround it and yell/talk to you/knock on the windows to get your attention. Shake your head 'no' and try to ignore them, even read anything that you have with you so as you're not looking at them, till you can be on your way again.

Price Guide:
Admission to: Taj Mahal (and incl. Agra Fort, Itimadud-Daula, Sikandra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri if you visit these places on the same day) - 750 INR ($21.50 AUD) incl. camera fee. Fatehpur Sikri admission price was $8. AUD.

Useful Links:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj_Mahal Lots of info, pics (incl. interior) and floor plans of the Taj Mahal
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatehpur_Sikri Info and pics of Fatehpur Sikri
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1205849940/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1205849940/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1205849940/tpod.html Wed, 30 Apr 2008 02:30:56 -0400 An Insight To India

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Delhi, India

18/1/2008 - 20/1/2008

The arrival...
After a pleasant flight from Perth - (Singapore) - Delhi, (10 hrs of air travel) and finally away from Perth's hot weather (40 degrees C), I arrived at Delhi's Indira Gandhi International Airport to a wintry 11 degrees C at 7:50 pm.!
I had pre-booked a taxi (on-line) from Namaskar Hotel (our recommended budget accommodation whilst in Delhi, also pre-booked on-line) to pick me up from the airport at a cost of 300 rupees ($9. AUD), which turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as it saved me bartering for a fare and all the hassles of finding a driver who'd know where the Namaskar was and charge a fair price.
Sanjeev (who'd be our driver for 11 days), a Punjabi family man with a big smile, was waiting - my name handwritten on his sign, and led me to the car - a fairly new 'Tata' (Indian manufactured) sedan with all the main comforts. This would be our main mode of transport while in India and was certainly reliable.
It took us nearly an hour to get thru the traffic, (you are supposed to drive on the left side of the road, like in Aus, though it doesn't seem to matter in some parts of Delhi!) particularly closer to Paharganj (New Delhi), where the hotel is - a maze of bikes, motor bikes, carts, pedestrians, tuk-tuks, cars, buses, trucks, donkeys, cattle going in all directions! Surprisingly they all seem to get to where they're going without an incident!
After our greetings and introductions at the Namaskar Hotel, situated in a narrow lane way in the Main Bazaar (markets), in the little lobby, and after viewing and choosing the slightly bigger room out of 2 possibilities, I headed up 4 flights of steps to the room. It was very basic, with a curtained window, simple furnishings and furniture, clean sheets, a 'western' toilet (no shower/hot water, but we were allowed to use the Manager's bathroom with hot water and a shower!) and the door did lock. Good value, as it was reasonably comfortable and only cost $12 AUD for the room per night. The staff were friendly and helpful as well.
Janice was arriving at around 4:00 am, from her long flight, so lights off and some sleep was in order!

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Day 2...
The next morning, we met up with Sanjeev, and after a breakfast of banana pancakes and Masala tea at Malhotra Restaurant, he drove us to the impressive world heritage listed 15th Century built Humayun's Tomb (Mughal architecture) in old Delhi (after we had visited the house of Syed, a henna and natural beauty products supplier as I wanted to source out importers for my henna supplies, as I am also a henna artist). We also visited another larger importer/supplier and factory (Classic Creations) in Noida, as the New Delhi office was closed (after back and forth phone calls with Sanjeev being the interpretor) and I received complimentary samples of henna products to 'try out' back in Aus.
Our late lunch was delicious (Indian Vegetarian) at the Shiv Dhaba, New Delhi and then we visited the tranquil Baha'i Lotus Temple - a remarkable white marble, symmetrical building of worship with ponds in shapes of petals surrounding the temple, which is surrounded by beautiful gardens.
After a drive past the the Government buildings, the Fort and the India Gate (a WW1 memorial), and a look at a 'Tourist' textile shop (BIG mark-up price wise), we headed back to the Namaskar Hotel.
I had a look, bartered a little and bought a few clothing bargains at the Main Bazaar (markets for the locals, so the prices were very reasonable) and definitely worth spending some time there and they're opened from 10 am - 9:30 pm. Also, just a couple of shops away from the hotel was a little shop that made excellent masala tea (ginger, cardamon, black pepper and tea leaves boiled together in a pot/saucepan) and chai (cloves, cinamon, cardamon, a little black pepper and milk) teas.

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Ready to hit the road...
After a reasonable night's sleep, we said our good-byes to the staff, 'Namaste' (which also can be a greeting) and left the Namaskar Hotel. We visited, again in old Delhi, the Jama Masjid Mosque, which was commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal, before heading south/eastwards to Agra.

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Comments:
Delhi, when it's dry, often has a blanket of smog or haze covering the city up to the late hours of the morning (just like in Cairo, Egypt) mostly due to the polution and dust. Campfires on the sidewalks are common (one way to keep warm in winter for the poorer folk) and rubbish is often banked up (swept with small twigged brooms) near the edge of the sidewalks, so the paths and streets remain clean (particularly near shops/stalls and busy walkways). There was certainly a variety of housing - from brand new multi story apartments to double story flat roofed houses with elaborate gates, to the ramshackle squallers or 'tents' made of plastic bags, tarps, paper, and cloth where the poor families lived beside busy streets and on unused land (some with old water pumps utilised for washing and drinking) - quite a mixture! The new freeway is also being constructed and roads and monuments being repaired and repainted in readiness for the Commonwealth games there, which will be held in October 2010. Despite this side of Delhi, there are many trees and beautiful landscaped gardens and reserves and it's certainly worth having a good look at this interesting city (and it's historic buildings) and staying for a couple of nights to do so.

Tips & Advice:
You need a 3 round pin (with the 2 smaller round pins at the top) adapter to plug in electrical appliances and for charger units for cameras, phones, etc; so if you buy one while in Delhi or other cities in India (hardware shops or supermarkets) it will only cost around 30 rupees (INR) or $1. AUD.
Beware of the scams, the touts (who can over charge you 300% + for the same or similar item you can buy at the markets or local shops), and the 'guides' who just come up to you and talk to you about the monument or building you happen to be taking an interest in and then demand that you pay them for their time and knowledge!
If someone (usually men) approaches you with intent to tell you all about what you are viewing without asking if you'd like a guide, just be courteous, and a firm "I don't need a guide" and "No thanks" (Ney Shukria!) and turn and walk away. Hopefully he won't be too persistent.
There will be more tips and advice about traveling in and around Delhi near the end of my blog (From the Mountains, back to the City entry), as I returned to Delhi on my own before my flight back to Perth, and you do need to have your wits about you and your common sense!

Price Guide:
* Accommodation at the Namaskar Hotel - from 300 INR ($9. AUD)
* 11 days Taxi hire, including all sightseeing, the fuel and associated expenses, tolls, and driver's accommodation and his meals along the way (booked at Namaskar Hotel and paid on first day of travel) traveling from Delhi - Mathura - Agra - Fatehpur Sikri - Jaipur - Ajmer - Pushkar - Jodhpur - Jaisalmer - Jodhpur - Ranakpur - Udaipur (and included expenses and fuel for the driver to return to Delhi) - approx. 24,150 INR ($700. AUD and between 2 of us was just $350. each for traveling nearly 1600 kms! + 690 km for driver's return to Delhi). The more of you sharing the taxi, the cheaper the costs! Hiring a taxi also meant we didn't have to carry a 65 ltr backpack/luggage and shopping bags/parcels - just put them in the lockable boot, and you can visit those palaces/forts, points of interest that public transport doesn't stop readily at, and at a time that suits you!, PLUS your driver knows the areas, some good places to eat, customs/culture etc...and usually can speak quite good English and will help you and advise you where and when he can (and translate)!
* Average cost of a hearty or fill-you-up meal including drinks - 100-250 INR ($3.20-$8.00 AUD) depending on whether you eat at a cafe (Dhaba) or a touristy restaurant.
* Admission to: Humayun's Tomb - $7.50 AUD, Jama Masjid - $6. AUD. Some places will charge a camera/video cam fee.

Useful links:
http://namaskarhotel.com/ For info, tariffs and various tour packages of Namaskar Hotel
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g293860-India-Vacations.html Lots of info on travel in India
http://www.xe.com/ucc/ A simple to use currency converter
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209202380/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209202380/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209202380/tpod.html Wed, 30 Apr 2008 01:52:26 -0400 An Insight To India

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Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India

31/1/2008

Riskikesh - a refreshing change!
The train arrived in Haridwar 40 mins late and it was was dark and cold outside, so I had all my warmest gear on!
As I left the station building, I noticed a backpacker with blonde hair and I asked him if he was traveling north to Rishikesh. He replied with a European accent (possibly Swiss) that he was going to board a bus to go south. At least he was headed to a bus station, so I also went to the nearby bus station, and asked one of the bus drivers "Rishikesh?" He shook his head and pointed towards the street....so I walked to the main street and noticed a few buses parked with their motors running on different sides of this main street and also noticed the tea stalls across the road, and their tempting whiffs of a chai brew. That was enough for me to cross the road, not too busy with traffic as yet, and order a chai from a smiling young man, and then I asked a man nearby, who had a clipboard - "Bus to Rishikesh"?, to which he replied "Yes, this bus"; and pointed to the nearest one. I couldn't believe my luck! The bus was due out in about about 5 minutes time, so I had just enough time to have and pay (5 rupees) for my chai (which was handed to me on the bus, as I was sitting just behind the stairwell) and it was one of the best chais I had in India! The man with the clip board was the conductor, and the bus trip (local public transport) to Rishikesh only cost me 22 rupees to travel 27 kms! (under 70c !) Dawn was approaching, and the bus ride was quite enjoyable, no overcrowding, and with no problems and apart from a few curious glances, everyone kept to themselves.
The conductor made sure I got off the bus at the right bus stop, and I responded with "Shukria; Namaste!" and a wave good-bye and nearly everyone waved back!... so here I was in Rishikesh, gateway to the Himalayas!
I still had nearly 5 kms to go before reaching my destination of Laxman Jhula, so I shared a tuk-tuk (a larger 6 seater) with an elderly Indian couple who were all smiles but didn't speak English, and who were well wrapped up against the cold. It was around 7:30 am, the sun was up in the almost cloudless sky, and the hilly, sealed road showed picturesque glimpses of the Ganges River flowing between the villages, and forests, with the mountains towering either side... and we passed many signs and banners aimed for the tourists as well!
I decided to walk a few kms, from the outskirts of Laxman Jhula, along the road nearest the river, crossing the pedestrian suspension bridge at Ram Jhula (though motorcyclists and the local monkeys use it as well), and up river 2 kms (now on the opposite side) to Laxman Jhula, passing markets, small villages, temples, gardens, a school, a hospital and pockets of natural forests.
I arrived just outside the main area of Laxman Jhula around 10:30 am and was looking forward to brunch! The Moonlight Cafe, much like a large verandah (owned by a Napalese family), which I had favourably read about online prior to arriving in India, cooked me the most awesome and filling meal - the 'Sizzler'! This vegetarian meal, presented on a hot, sizzling iron plate with a wooden base, consisted of 3 cabbage leafed 'bowls': 1st - fried bite sized chunks of peeled potatos; 2nd - torfu and eggplant pieces, with a chunky mushroom and spinach thick sauce with Mondella cheese melted over the top and garnished by a small grilled tomato; and 3rd - assorted vegies sauted lightly in butter. Yummmmy! That filled me up and all for the price of $4 AUD (including a juice drink).
About 100 mtrs further on, I found my accommodation for the night - The Jaipur Inn, which is almost across from the Thirteen Story Temple, and close to another Suspension Bridge (quite alot of monkeys at this one) and the shops, internet cafes, restarants and markets. The Jaipur Inn also has great views of the street scene below, the river and of course, the Temple from it's rooftop restaurant. My room (pre-booked online direct to the hotel) was clean; practical; plainly, but nicely furnished with ensuite; and had a view of the 'Ganga Ji' (Ganges River), although barred (in a pattern), and this is because of the mischeivous monkeys who visit now and then. I did see a few on the roof right next to the hotel and close to my window!
After a nice hot shower, I had a look at the markets - lots of CDs (incl. Indian meditation ones with and without mantras), and quite allot of clothing and items for sale at very reasonable prices and different designs to other parts of India.
I then went for a 'jungle' walk, N/E of the hotel, for a few of kms on a dirt, unused, narrow hilly road through the forest, away from people, away from any cars and traffic, and partly along the mighty, cascading river. Simply wonderful! Coming back, I dipped my toes and hands into a still part of the river - refreshingly cold, as I was quite hot after my little trek. As I only had 1 full day in Rishikesh, there wasn't enough time to participate in fun advenure sports like white water rafting, canoing or a day tour at the nearby National Park (where tigers may be sighted); or to visist an Ashram to learn yoga and various meditation techniques or be 'cleansed' healthwise, or learn tabla drumming or any other Indian insrtrument (lessons can be arranged), as you really need 3 or more days to fullly particpate and/or feel renewed from the experience.
Late afternon, I headed back downstream to Ram Jhula, (not crossing the bridge) hoping to see the Aarti, (at dusk) where Hindu devotees gather and light an Aarti plate made usually of metal, with a lamp made of kneaded flour, mud or metal, that is filled with oil or ghee. A cotton wick is put into the oil and then lit, or camphor is burnt instead. The plate also contains flowers (yellow, orange, red), incense and akshata (uncooked rice) and is moved in circles clockwise around a person or idol and is generally accompanied by the singing of mantras of that deva or person (many versions exist). In doing so, the plate itself is supposed to acquire the power of the deity. The purpose of performing Aarti is the waving of lighted wicks (ussually by priests) before the deities in a spirit of humility and gratitude, where faithful followers become immersed in God's divine form. It symbolises the five elements: 1) space (akash), 2) wind (vayu), 3) light (tej), 4) water (jal), and 5) earth (pruthvi). If a priest is present, a bell is rung, and he circulates the plate to all those present. They cup their down-turned hands over the flame and then raise their palms to their forehead - the purificatory blessing, passed from the deva's image to the flame, has now been passed to the devotee. Smaller Aarti plates are then put on the water and it floats down stream, and when allot of small Aartis are lit and on the water, the effect is quite stunning.
As it turned out, the 'community' Aarti took place on the opposite bank of the river to where I was, so I was too far away to really witness it, though I just heard the lovely singing of the mantras, however, some of the locals (and other visiting devotees) took part in their own Aartis.
On my return to Laxman Jhula, it was dark and the moon was out, which provided just enough light to see the pathway. I had a snack dinner at a crowded (with tourists) cafe - the Purple Dhaba, as it has a reputation of serving a variety of good food. I found a seat and ordered a 'Maaza' bottle of mango juice, dhal (tastey) with rotti (rounded, almost flat bread), and after taking my first bite, I bit into something hard, and out of my mouth (trying not to be too obvious) I pulled out a black small nail (oversized tack)! I called out to the waiter, who came to my table, and showed him the nail and mentioned (diplomatically) and in simple English that I wasn't happy about it and was concerned to find this in my meal, and that I'd like to see the Manager please, and the waiter wasn't to pleased about it either and promptly turned around and aproached the Manager. Other diners around me glanced my way, but continued with their meals. I ate every other mouthful of rotti slowly and carefully, and thankfully, didn't find any other objects in my food. When I was ready to leave, and asked again to see the Manager, he came to my table, appologised, (promptly taking the offending nail away) and didn't charge me for my food, only for my drink. It was obviously just 'one of those unfortunate things' and the Manager assured me that this had never happened before in his restaurant; so all was forgiven, and I wasn't sick afterwards. I then walked across the road to an internet cafe, and after trying to send emails (some of the computers were having problems with the internet providers) and not getting anywhere, I called it a night, and went back to my room, watched some interesting and entertaining Indian TV ads (allot like ours in Aus!) and a movie before catching up on some sleep.

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Price Guide:
* Accommodation at the Jaipur Inn (Hotel) - 990 INR or $32. AUD
* Tuk-tuk from Rishikesh town centre to Laxman Jhula - 20c

Useful Links:
http://www.jaipur-inn.com/liesure.html Info and tarrif of the Jaipur Inn, and also info on Rishikesh and other tours of the area (incl. Rajaji National Pak) and leisure activities (raftiing and treks/hiking).
http://www.rishikesh.org/ Lots more info on what to do, where to stay, and all about Rishikesh.
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209040140/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209040140/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1209040140/tpod.html Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:12:54 -0400 An Insight To India

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Jodhpur, Rajasthan, India

28/1/2008

On the road again...to arrive at Jodhpur
From Jaisalmer to Jodhpur is approx. 305 kms. The road is bitumen and 2 laned, and most of the time, not too busy. Everything that can travel will travel on these roads (and throughout India) from pedestrians, bicycles, carts, motor bikes, tuk-tuks, tractors, cars, trucks, and animals, so horns are often blaring for overtaking/passing. Sanjeev seemed to love his, beeping most of the time! There were a few moments where other drivers/riders would take stupid and risky chances to pass or wander on the opposite side of the road, where we'd have to put on the breaks or swerve to avoid a collision (this happened on a couple of other roads as well), but all in all, with all the traveling and miles we did, we had an enjoyable, safe journey and Sanjeev is a safe and good driver.
The country side is mostly arid and dry with some 'Kikker' native trees and desert plants (some in flower) dotting the scenery and the sand dunes, and the occasional rocky outcrops. We also passed wild camels and further towards Jodhpur we saw a few deer (Nilgai) frolicking amongst the bushes and grasses.
We saw several villages (farming) with mud and thatched roofed huts, and visited 2 of them, to meet the local families and hand out pens to the smiling children. One of the villagers happily gave us a 'guided tour' of his village and Sanjeev translated for us as many of these folk don't speak English. The children were fascinated with our digital cameras and even more when they saw themselves in the view finder (particularly the second village) and wanted to be 'starring' in our photos, so they posed for us with big smiles.
Also, we visited Madla Village School, a community school (government funded) built of natural materials and simply designed, which accepts children from surrounding villages, even 10 or so kms away. The Principal didn't mind us interrupting their classes (the teachers were teaching various English subjects at the time) and when we told them we were from Australia, some giggled, some smiled shyly, and we talked of kangaroos and the cricket (most popular sport in India) and handed out nearly all our supply of pens, as there were over 120 kids (all in uniform) who were the right age to accept the pens!
We continued on, stopping at a little township en-route to have a cuppa, a lunch snack and to have a look at the road side markets and shops, (no hassles here) and allot of the locals gave us curious looks and big smiles.
We also passed and stopped to meet local (non English speaking) women workers, balancing large metal bowls on their heads to collect dirt, rocks and twigs for building with (or twigs for firewood). Most of the women villagers will collect water in large pots on their heads and well as building materials, and some families will collect long branches as tall as themselves balanced on their heads.
We continued on to Jodhpur, arriving around 4:30 pm.
Before arriving back at the Krishna Prakesh Hotel, Sanjeev took us to the magnificent, Jaswant Thada - a centuries old, Maharajahs' marble residence/memorial and garden estate (complete with a Cenotaph or cemetery) next to the Mehrangarh Fort.
Just before dinner, Janice and I caught up and had a Chai tea with Oosha (from MV Spices) and had another quick browse at the markets.
Dinner (Sanjeev's treat) was a social occasion, shared with other friendly drivers and friends who were also staying at the Krishna Prakash and at the Omelette Shop (just inside the Sardar Markets' entry gate), which specalises in a variety of large omelettes (accompanied by toasted 'English' bread) cooked with eggs stacked high on layers of moulded card atop of each other. I ordered a masala, cheese and mushroom filled omelette and was tasty too!, with a bottle of mango juice (my favorite drink in India) from a nearby stall.
We had a different room choice at Krishna Prakash, and chose the twin elephant beds room (up 1 flight of stairs), which was again clean, painted decoratively, elegantly furnished and with a large en-suite.

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Price Guide:
* Jaswant Thada Entry - 20 INR or 65c!
* Omelette Shop - 2 omelettes and tea for less than $2. AUD
]]> http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1208095260/tpod.html http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1208095260/tpod.html#comments Travel Blogs http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/claireaussi/1/1208095260/tpod.html Mon, 28 Apr 2008 06:01:51 -0400 An Insight To India

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Jaisalmer, India

26/1/2008 - 28/1/2008

Jaisalmer Hospitality...
We departed the train and were instantly exposed to a very wintry 4 degrees C. It was still dark outside, though dawn was approaching, and we looked around for our complimentary ride to our accommodation - Hotel Killa Bhawan, waiting 15 mins, but no one came (lots of offers with various prices to take us there though). So we shared a 5 min. ride (in a 4WD taxi) with a Japanese traveler as the driver was going to a Guest House very close to the Killa Bhawan (KB as we fondly called it) for only $1.50 AUD. for both of us.
The historic 12th Century, Killa Bhawan - 2 adjoining townhouses converted to a hotel, is built in/and part of the Jaisalmer Fort walls and turrets, and is handy to the Fort entrance; with ambient rooms; rustic, furnished terraces and courtyards; and lounge areas furnished with antique furniture and handcrafted textile wall hangings. The owners/Managers are also taking initiatives to help with restoration (to help avoid displacement of the Fort's foundations and walls from crumbling) because of the demand on it's sewerage system and have their own large grey water tank. We were warmly welcomed and invited to sit in the Caretaker's heated room next to Reception, even though he just awoke, and he appologised sincerely when we mentioned that our courtesy lift to the KB didn't eventuate. He ordered 2 teas for us (complimentary) and, after chatting (he likes to practice his English whenever he has the chance) and letting us know that our room would be ready late morning and his cousin, the Manager would arrive soon, he asked the kitchen staff to make us a breakfast (a big, cooked one at that and complimentary), which we enjoyed in 1 of the lounges, as there's no dining room or restaurant. The view from the rooftop and courtyards looking out to Jaisalmer city and part of the fort complex as the sun was rising, is beautiful with the sandstone city showing it's peachy, golden colour. I was able to have a hot shower before the daily morning power cut (8:30 am - 10:30 am ) and there's also 1 daily from 2:30pm - 4:30pm. Today was different though, as it was a public holiday (and no power cuts) because it was India Independence Day!
Our room was soon ready, and it's located inside a turret of the Fort's walls!, with rustic and antique furniture, silk curtains, and hand woven rugs. The bay window opened up to a wonderful view of Jaisalmer city, market stalls, and the fort entrance. We also witnessed 2 young performers (buskers) balancing and doing tricks on a 'high' wire, and even a couple of night time wedding parades, complete with bright lights, musicians and fireworks!
We also had use of a lounge/sitting area which was en-route (a few steps down) to the spacious bathroom and toilet (all to ourselves!)
Later that morning, we explored the market stalls, and bought a few items. I was shopping for men's shirts for gifts, and if you don't find the right designed fabric in a style of shirt you like, you can have it made (sewn and hemmed in the style of your choice within a few hours) in the fabric on display of your choice, from (depending how well you barter) 280 INR (only $9. AUD)! We walked up narrow streets displaying intricately hand carved havelis (including the Nathmaljiki Haveli) and met some of the local people, including a genuinely friendly and pleasant artist, who chatted with us not only about India, but was curious to know more about Australia, our culture and art. I mentioned that I am an artist and he asked us if we wanted to see his artwork and gallery (leased in a slightly run down, but beautifully carved haveli), which he proudly showed us with no pressure to buy. His artwork depicts Indian way of life, Hindu Gods and Goddesses, and Indian animals, all painted in fine detail, using a 'one hair'/fine brush and either uses acrylic paints or traditionally natural plant and mineral powdered 'dyes' mixed (in shells) with 'glue' (sap from a babul tree), which sets or 'fixes' the colours so they last without fading for commissioned or 'ordered' artworks. After more chatting (his English was quite good) and pouring us a lovely cup of tea, we did buy a few of his art works (well priced) knowing that at least he would keep the money we paid him and not have to go through the 'middle man' or suppliers, who pay the artists very little for their time and beautiful work. He earns more (pays for his lease) by teaching, and holding workshops for up to a few interested international tourists and artists at a time so that they can learn the techniques and appreciate this style of art.
We had lunch at the Amit Ras Cafe - good food at good prices, and I had Idle (fermented rice cakes with a texture like a bread) and a vegetable 'pancake'.
We returned to the KB in the evening, and phoned Sanjeev (who'd left a message to say he'd arrived) and he'd meet us later in the morning.
At dusk, we experienced a Prayer Service at a Hindu Temple within the Fort with local Hindu people, who rang the bell; sang, chanted and clapped Mantras to the Lord of all Creation while a drum was played, and the lamp (lights) lit, offered and moved in a circular motion by the priest. Food (Halwa) was blessed and given out and you accept this in your right hand only (this is the same when eating any food/putting food into your mouth in India), as using your left hand would be an insult, as it's custom to use your left hand to clean yourself after you've done your business in the toilet.
We later had dinner at the Shanti Restaurant (Indian, American, Italian, and Napalese meals) close to the KB, which had it's kitchen downstairs. It caters for tourists apparently and we found the meals bland and service very ordinary for the price.

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Day 2...
A little less chilly that morning, so after a brekkie, Janice and I toured the Fort's Palace and Museum, another informative 'Audio' tour, and though it isn't quite as impressive as Jodhpur's Mehrangarh Fort, it is still interesting and very decorative. There are great views of Jaisalmer city, the surrounding desert, and of the windmills (turbines) that actually power up Jodhpur (not Jaisalmer) on the city's outskirts.
Sanjeev later joined us and drove us to Gadsisar Lake, which was excavated in 1367 by Rawal Gadsi Singh, and is a rainwater lake surrounded by small temples and shrines, with the Fort as a scenic backdrop. There were peddle boats and rowing boats you could hire, so we hired a (twin) peddle boat and peddled our way around the lake, stopping a few times to take photos, and as we rounded the bank, turning, still staying close to the middle of the narrower section of the lake, we stopped abruptly and couldn't go forward or reverse (not realizing how shallow it was there). Whoops! We cracked up laughing, and I was prepared to roll up my long pants and push us off the hidden 'sand' bank, since I was steering at the time), when a kindly, local guy, who had been watching us on the bank, came towards us, obviously amused by our predicament, and pushed us out and we all waved and we were very grateful.
After our 30 mins boat peddling 'tour' of the lake, Sanjeev told us a story about the lake's beautifully carved, yellow sandstone arched gateway - the Tilon-ki-Pol. It is said to have been built by a famous prostitute, Tilon. When she offered to pay to have this gateway constructed, the Maharaja refused permission as he felt that this would be beneath his dignity. While he was away, she built the gate, adding a Krishna temple on top so that King could not tear it down.
We then had a good lunch at Jaisalmer Junction (out door touristy restaurant, though with ambience and we were inside the large decorated 'tent' area) and the meals were good value!
Sanjeev then took us to meet his friend, Dharmu, a silversmith, who also integrates gems and stones with his silver work to make exquisite jewelry and trinket boxes. Dharmu's factory is also part of this home, and he is a genuinely pleasant man, who, after a couple of hours of us looking and Janice buying items for her shop, he invited us all to have dinner with his family, a lovely thought, and we mentioned that we'd thought of returning to the Jaisalmer Junction for dinner as around 7 pm, each night, local young dancers and muscos entertain free at the restaurant. So, at around 7 pm we all (including Dharmu) had a delicious dinner there and he insisted on paying for our dinners, as a way to say thank you for us visiting his 'shop' and doing business with him. I, along with a few other diners (invitation from the dancer) joined in a couple of energetic folk dances - allot of fun, good exercise and a way to keep warm! My dinner consisted of 'Navratan' Curry - mixed veggies in a spicy, sweet sauce with added pineapple and cherries.
Just before dinner, while the sun was setting, Sanjeev drove us to his favorite lookout to see an awesome 'back' view the Jaisalmer Fort.
We returned to the KB around 9:30 pm ish.

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Goodbye Jaisalmer!
In the morning, before leaving our 'home', the KB, and saying our goodbyes to Manu and Bhanu and the wonderful staff, who all looked after us well, (without being intrusive), we had a look at the intricately carved sandstone interiors of the Jain Temple complex, where only 2 out of 5 were opened to the tourists at that time, and a smiling man came up to us chatting about the temples, their history and pointing out relevant, interesting things (without asking if we wanted a 'guide'). Of course, nearing the exit of the temple, he wanted us to pay him for his knowledge and time. I gave him a small amount, smiled and thanked him for his interesting talk, to which he argued, in a loud whisper that he should be paid more, to which I then mentioned that this payment is a gift of thanks and we hadn't asked for him to be our guide, I courteously said 'Namaste', and then turned away. I had noticed the Temples' Donation Box, to which I added a larger amount to.
In some temples, palaces and historic buildings, there are signs in English allerting people not to pay unauthorised 'Guides', and donation boxes are supplied, and your money helps to enable the neccessary restoration work to continue for these magnificent buildings.
Sanjeev met us in the Fort's courtyard, and we hired a tuk-tuk to where the car was parked, put our bags/luggage in the boot and drove out of Jaisalmer City. We really enjoyed our days there, and weren't hassled or had any unpleasant experiences as other travellers (particularly women) had mentioned in their blogs/travellers forums or from what had been told to us prior to coming to India.

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Price Guide:
* Accommodation at the Killa Bhawan - from $85. AUD a room per night, including a cooked breakfast (as much as you can eat).
* Fort Palace & Museum Entry (incl. audio tour) - $8. AUD
* Laundry Service (washing, drying and folding) for 2 days of clothes (5 items) - $3. AUD. Most of the time I washed my own tops/cotton long pants/underwear every 2 days, towel dried them and hung them over chairs or on hangers to dry.

Useful Links:
http://www.killabhawan.com/history/jaislamer-hotel-killa-bhawan.htm For all info, and a reservaton form for Hotel Killa Bhawan.
http://www.nwahindutemple.org/hinduism.html Lots of info about Hinduism, the beliefs, practices, and terminology.

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